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I honestly have no idea what I'm doing. (pc building)

#1AeliaPosted 5/30/2012 11:59:23 PM
So I just started clicking on stuff.

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/9cjc

I came up with this. I want to spend about $1000-$1100 dollars total on a PC.

I basically just looked at the ratings and started adding stuff. I honestly don't know what any of it means. So don't laugh at me if this wouldn't work/makes no sense. How can I trim this build down to fit inside my budget? Is this a good build? Should I scrap it and start over?

I want a PC that will allow me to play modern games at or around max settings. High would be fine too. Can you build a PC that runs most things on max within this budget? This budget includes Monitor, OS and keyboard/mouse.
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Longest championship drought in Boston: 7 years (New England Patriots)
GT: BostonBILL86
#2PFGeraciPosted 5/31/2012 12:07:49 AM
That website...is magnificent. Anywho, if you're not getting a K unlocked CPU (2500K, 3570K, etc), then I wouldn't bother with the Cooler Master fan. If you're spending all this though, I would just get a K unlocked CPU (because overclocking is so simple right now). If you can afford another $30 or so, the Ivy Bridge 3570K is out so consider that.

Also if you know someone with a .edu email address, you can get a student discount from Microsoft on Windows 7 Pro down to $65 (sometimes $30). All you need is a .edu email!
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I had bread, I had cheese, and I had an iron. What was I supposed to do?
#3DiehardFFv2Posted 5/31/2012 12:16:41 AM
http://tinyurl.com/7w8vdbg

Only a few suggestions. As stated, get the 2500k. The overclock headroom it offers makes it more than worth the difference in price.

In my opinion, the HDD doesn't have a great $/GB but is otherwise fine. But that will hold true of all HDD's less than 2TB or so.

Finally, do you really need the blu ray drive? That's an oem drive which means it doesn't come with any software for blu ray playback which is an additional cost. If you have a bunch of blu rays and already have a separate player, stick with that for now. The 40 dollars you would save by getting a dvd drive instead would allow you to bump up your HDD and processor.

With the changes I suggested, you would have a rather nice computer that would be more than capable of playing anything near max today and would be strong for some time yet.
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i5 3570k @4.2 GHz/ Asrock Z77 Extreme4 / 8GB G.Skill Sniper 1866 / MSI GTX 560 / Corsair Force GT 120GB / Seagate Barracuda 2TB
#4NeoBillbinePosted 5/31/2012 12:16:55 AM
BostonBILL86 posted...
So I just started clicking on stuff.

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/9cjc

I came up with this. I want to spend about $1000-$1100 dollars total on a PC.

I basically just looked at the ratings and started adding stuff. I honestly don't know what any of it means. So don't laugh at me if this wouldn't work/makes no sense. How can I trim this build down to fit inside my budget? Is this a good build? Should I scrap it and start over?

I want a PC that will allow me to play modern games at or around max settings. High would be fine too. Can you build a PC that runs most things on max within this budget? This budget includes Monitor, OS and keyboard/mouse.



Start out with this, It costs about as much as the ones you chose before except its a 3rd gen unlocked processor with a $15 gift card. You also get a new Z77 motherboard with a $10 rebate.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.908217
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i7 2700K, ASRock Fatal1ty P67 PRO, NH-D14, 16 GB G.Skill
Ripjaws DDR3, GTX680, Crucial M4 128GB, 2TB Samsung F4, Asus Xonar DG, Corsair HX650, Arc Midi
#5NeoBillbinePosted 5/31/2012 12:37:46 AM
As for the power supply you can get the one below cheaper and with a $15 rebate. This power supply is also built by Seasonic.

http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=59616&vpn=P1650SNLB9&manufacture=XFX
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i7 2700K, ASRock Fatal1ty P67 PRO, NH-D14, 16 GB G.Skill
Ripjaws DDR3, GTX680, Crucial M4 128GB, 2TB Samsung F4, Asus Xonar DG, Corsair HX650, Arc Midi
#6BlackMantisPosted 5/31/2012 1:14:31 AM
Spend another $100 and get a GTX 670.

It'll be a huge jump in performance from the 560 ti and will last you longer.
#7BMANZZSPosted 5/31/2012 1:32:01 AM
Changed a few things on your build:

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/9cpQ

If you don't plan on overclocking, there's absolutely no need to buy the Hyper 212+. The Intel stock fan is efficient enough and surprisingly quiet. Even if you weren't planning on overclocking, you can still squeeze like 300MHz above stock clock speeds using stock cooling. The 2500k for $200 at NCIX is a pretty good deal, and a great processor.

Unless you find a good deal on a GTX 560 Ti 448, you should just go with a GTX 570. They're about the same cost, and also similar performance mind you, but the 560 Ti 448 uses the GTX 570 GPU but has a disabled core. Sort of like a factory-crippled GTX 570 with a 560 Ti label slapped on. If you can afford $100 more, definitely go with a GTX 670. It's a beast of a card. If you really want to save some money, go with a GTX 560 Ti. It's the best performance/value option on today's market.

Overall your build looks eerily similar to mine, and I absolutely love my system. I'm pretty much just trying to say if you take my suggestions and build your rig, you'll be happy I'm sure.
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i5-2500k (@4.3GHz) Hyper 212+ | AsRock z68 Extreme3 | GTX 560 Ti 448 @(820/1980)
CM690 II Adv | G-Skill 2x4GB PC1600 | CM Silent Pro 700W
#8BMANZZSPosted 5/31/2012 1:35:24 AM
Also, you COULD go with one of the new Ivy Bridge Intel CPUs. The 3570K is right around your price range ($225). Though I must say the performance on Ivy Bridge isn't significantly better than the older Sandy processors (about 5-10%). If you decide to go with Ivy, be sure to also buy a Z77 motherboard to take advantage of the new features.
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i5-2500k (@4.3GHz) Hyper 212+ | AsRock z68 Extreme3 | GTX 560 Ti 448 @(820/1980)
CM690 II Adv | G-Skill 2x4GB PC1600 | CM Silent Pro 700W
#9Aelia(Topic Creator)Posted 5/31/2012 10:01:23 PM
Ok. Here's what I think I am going with.

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/9fUe

How do I avoid buying the full version of windows 7? Also, any last minute tweaks?
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Longest championship drought in Boston: 7 years (New England Patriots)
GT: BostonBILL86
#10BMANZZSPosted 5/31/2012 10:52:45 PM
Yes. Why did you change your PSU? If you're planning on SLI in the future, get a higher quality 700+W PSU. If not I would just roll with the SeaSonic M12II 620 you had in there before
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i5-2500k (@4.3GHz) Hyper 212+ | AsRock z68 Extreme3 | GTX 560 Ti 448 @(820/1980)
CM690 II Adv | G-Skill 2x4GB PC1600 | CM Silent Pro 700W