MHTri Frequently Asked Questions (look here before you ask something)
Since this is a large topic, search the titles in the table of contents to move quickly to the desired section.
Table of Contents:
-General Resources (GENRESOURCES)
-Where Do I Find [Insert Item Here]? (FINDITEMS)
-How Do Armor Skills Work? (ARMORSKILLS)
......Whatís Wrong with X Armor? (XARMOR)
How do I kill [Insert Monster Here]? (HOWTOKILL)
......Not getting Hit (NOTHIT)
......Is it really that important to not get hit? (GETTINGHIT)
......Hitting it until it dies! (HITITMORE)
R,B,Y? P,G? What are these color options on my weapons? (RBYPG)
......I have a choice between P and G, or R and Y. Which one should I get? (RORY)
Bowgun Information (GUNSGUNSGUNS)
......General Bowgun Assembly (ASSEMBLY)
......Armor skills (GUNSKILLS)
......Range mods (RANGEMODS)
......Whatís the Best Setup? (BESTSETUP)
General Resources (GENRESOURCES)
Iím going to try avoiding the reinvention of the wheel in this.
Damage Formula by Lord Grahf:
Bowgun Companion by VampireCosmonaut:
Bowgun Damage Formula by VampireCosmonaut:
Divine Whim (damage calculator, armor skills calculator, contains a list of all the hitzones and weaknesses for MHTri):
Where Do I Find [Insert Item Here]? (FINDITEMS)
Gathered/Combined item list:
Best probability for items from a monster:
How Do Armor Skills Work? (ARMORSKILLS)
Every piece of armor has either armor skill points or slots. With said slots, you can add decorations, which also grant armor skill points. You can also get slots from your weapon, as well. Finally, you can equip a talisman that grants either armor skill points or slots.
If your armor skills reach a certain threshold, either positive or negative, they grant an armor skill. For instance, if all of your armor gives you a total of 10 Attack armor skill points, you would get the armor skill ďAttack Up (s)Ē. However, if you remove an armor piece, leaving you with 9 Attack armor skill points instead, you would not have any armor skills.
Activating positive armor skills -- and deactivating negative armor skills -- is the most beneficial aspect of equipping armor. For a list of armor skills, and their requirements:
For armor skills from armor and decorations, see the following links:
If you are just starting the game, youíre probably best off simply using full sets, and using slots to add decorations that remove any negative skills, if possible. Once youíre more familiar with how armor skills work, you can try to combine your own armor using DivineWhim (listed above) or seeing the armor combination FAQs over in the FAQs section.
Whatís Wrong with X Armor? (XARMOR)
Chances are, it has armor skills that are either easily replaced or aren't necessary.
1. Health+ is replaced by proper food buffs
2. Resistances are generally not needed at all. Element attacks are the most predictable of attacks, having huge windups and having very clear hitboxes. If you learn how to avoid the attack, you won't need to worry about resistance
1. Defense also does not matter if you never get hit. Wearing armor purely for the defense is also frowned upon.
3. Generally, some armor skills aren't worth the skill points to activate. Even if the armor set has one decent skill, that doesn't really justify getting it over one with several decent to good armor skills.
No armor skill is required to kill any monster (hell, you can kill things naked), but some players might not be willing to play with you if you're intentionally limiting yourself with your armor choices. Youíd be surprised how many so-called ďelitistsĒ on GameFAQs gear for looks rather than function. Wearing for looks or fun is perfectly justifiable if it doesn't compromise your ability to hunt.
How do I kill [Insert Monster Here]? (HOWTOKILL)
1. Don't get hit
2. Hit it until it dies.
Obviously, this is a short response that doesn't really tell you anything at first look. However, this is the simplest way to describe how to play Monster Hunter.
Not getting Hit (NOTHIT)
To start, every monsters attack has a hitbox or an area that will cause you to get hit if you collide with it. For most monsters in Tri, this is directly related to what they are hitting you with. For instance, any monster doing a tail flick or tail whip will feature their tail as their primary hitbox. If they are large and they shuffle their feet around while doing this, they may also have hitboxes near their feet that do minor damage as well. You can avoid taking full damage by either positioning, evading, or guarding the attack.
If you are in a position that the hitbox never collides with, you can't get hit by it. You can achieve this by either being outside of the hitbox range the whole time, or by moving out of the way before it collides with you. By being under the monster as they are whipping their tail around, you can avoid being hit by the tail while still attacking the monster. Many weapons benefit from this, with Great Sword gameplay largely revolving around this method of not getting hit. Bowguns generally don't get hit by melee attacks by virtue of being outside of range, as well.
Your character has invincibility frames while the attack is colliding with them. These invincibility frames make the "moment of invulnerability" (MOI) you use to dodge through an attack. For an obvious example, the superman dive (activated by panic run then hitting the roll button) causes you to have about one and a half seconds of invulnerability. During that time, you can be hit in the face with anything and still not take any damage. However, if you are still in the hitbox range when the moment of invulnerability ends, you will get hit.
Keeping in mind that MHTri moves at around 30 FPS gameplay-wise, each roll has a couple frames of invincibility. Evade+1 extends this drastically, making it much easier to dodge attacks. Evade+2 only gives a minor amount more than Evade+1 grants. Evade+1 is generally more popular in builds, seeing as +2 rarely makes a difference when rolls are well-timed.
The "Superman dive" typically lasts around 1.5 seconds; it depends on your character hitting the ground rather than a frame count.
Getting knocked over/around causes some invulnerability frames, as well. Thank that valiant longsword user for tripping you out of getting hit by the monster.
Tremors and Roars can be evaded through, where positioning would normally be impossible or ineffective.
Some attacks can be evaded without evade+1, some require evade+1, and only a few attacks need evade+2. Some attacks can only be evaded with a superman dive, such as Diablos's roar, and the fire/ice tornados created by Alatreon and Barioth. Some attacks last longer than the superman dive effect, such as Jhen Mohran's roar and Uragaan's fart attacks.
This technique takes practice and timing. For most attacks, you will need to know exactly when the attack is going to collide with you in order to evade it. For a tail attack, you will likely need to roll INTO the tail in order for it to work. However, it's extremely useful for any class of weapons to be able to MOI through an attack in a pinch.
If your weapon has a shield, you can block by holding by pressing R. R+X will draw your weapon to a blocking stance, if you are standing idle sheathed. R+X+A will draw into a blocking stance if you are moving. If you are using a bowgun, and have a barrel with a shield attached, you can block when you have your bowgun out, and are idle. If you are firing, or reloading, your shield is not active. You cannot pull out your bowgun into a blocking stance.
To block an attack, you need to be facing the attack's origin. This can be different from the direction the attack actually seems to hit you. For instance, if you are blocking barioth as he is diving from the sky, and he spins out upon hitting the ground but initially misses you, and his tail connects with your butt, you will still block the attack because the attack originated in front of you.
For some attacks, once you block the first portion, you are immune to taking damage from the rest of the attack. For instance, if you block Lagiacrus's underwater spin attack when he turns his head around, you cannot get hit by the subsequent tail flick. In other cases, you will need to block subsequent portions of the attack. To find which attacks make you invulnerable to the rest of the attack, simply keep blocking. If the attack clearly collides with you again, but does not affect you, you only need to block one portion of it to be invincible to the whole attack.
Some attacks require guard boost in order to block. These include:
* Gobul's suction attack
* Gigginox's poison gas belly flop
* Uragaan's sleepfart
* Lagiacrus's purple bolts from his rage-mode grand lightning storm
* Agnaktor's laser
* Ceadeus's water beam (only if it hits you directly, the outer edges can be blocked without)
* Alatreon's fireball (only if it hasn't hit the ground, the firestorm when it hits the ground can be blocked)
Guarding is generally a backup option if the player doesn't feel safe either moving out of the way or evading through the attack. With lance, it can be used as an alternative to evading thanks to the counter feature.
Is it really that important to not get hit? (GETTINGHIT)
Yes. Yes it is.
Let's look at what happens when you get hit. Regardless of whether you go flying, trip, or just flinch in position, you're stuck in the same position for a certain amount of time. This can throw position-based defense out the window. You accumulate KO, which can cause you to stumble around with stars on your head. This usually leads to getting hit another time, which is usually the last hit the monster needs to kill you.
Every hit that doesn't only cause flinching will give you a certain amount of invincibility frames. This means you can end up avoiding one attack by getting hit by another. Somewhat convenient. However, what happens when you get back up? Youíre in a static position, at the mercy of the monster if itís in the middle of another attack. You can roll to evade an attack before the invincibility frames from getting up end. You can also immediately guard upon getting up. Whatís critical is that you DONíT get hit again.
Trading hits with monster attacks that donít send you flying can also be dangerous. For instance, many of Deviljhoís bite attacks donít actually send you flying. They will, however, give you defense down, and do considerable damage. Many a GS/LS user has unwittingly traded hits with Jho to end up getting squished on the next big hit.
Besides, the better you get at not getting hit, the more viable abilities and skills like Felyne Heroics and Adrenaline+2 become.
Hitting it until it dies! (HITITMORE)
Each monster has a collection of hitzones. Some of these hitzones are breakable. All of them have a damage multiplier for cut, impact, shot, and elemental weaknesses. They also have a stagger limit; whenever enough damage is dealt to that hitzone, the monster will stagger. This stagger limit is usually related to how much damage is needed to break or sever the area.
Let's take a Great Jaggi for example. His hitzones include the head and the body. Not only is the head weaker to physical damage than the rest of his body, but it is breakable. For his head, it will take one stagger to break.
Most hitzones will take two staggers to break. Some may take more than that. Some are breakable more than once, such as Diablos's, Alatreon's, and Deviljho's horns/head. For tails, it will usually take two stagger's worth of damage coming from a cutting weapon in order to break. Impact and Shot-based weapons will contribute to staggering on the tail, but they will not contribute to this sever limit. Some tails both break and then sever, such as Uragaan's and Agnaktor's. The break limit can be assisted with impact and shot damage, but the sever requires cut damage.
After that, one should focus on the weakest hitzone they can easily reach where you won't disturb other players.
In order to get as many rewards as possible, one must break everything. In order to kill a monster as fast as possible, one must hit the weakest hitzones as often as possible. A good farming run will usually consist of both.
Some attacks, such as ballista shots, cannon shots, Crag S and Clust S deal static damage that isnít modified by hitzones or monster defenses. In these cases, it is best to aim at durable-but-breakable hitzones, or just trying to land all the hits.
To get a better idea on how damage works, check out the Damage FAQ in the general resources section.
R,B,Y? P,G? What are these color options on my weapons? (RBYPG)
R- Red: Boosts attack by 10 times your class multiplier (explained by Lord Grahf's Damage FAQ)
Y- Yellow: Boosts affinity by 15%
B- Blue: Gives another slot for decorating.
P- Purple: Both Attack +10 and a slot.
G- Green: Both Affinity+15% and a slot.
I have a choice between P and G, or R and Y. Which one should I get? (RORY)
Considering that itís actually doubted that a percentage of affinity actually corresponds to the percent of landing a critical hit, itís hard to say which would actually perform best over time.
Under the assumption that, in example, 15% affinity means an exact 15% chance of critical hits, P will typically beat G.
* Greatswords will want the attack-enhancing versions, since the best playstyle utilizes Critical Draw pretty heavily. With a critical draw, any affinity is meaningless.
* For Lagiacrus low rank weapons, there is a third, high-rank option between the two that will turn out to be a much better weapon, albeit much later in the game.
* For weapons that arenít endgame upgrades, you can simply grab whatever you can get earlier or faster.
Bowgun Information (GUNSGUNSGUNS)
To start, read the Bowgun Companion, and if you're really interested in looking at damage, damage formula FAQs. This section is mostly supplementary to the guides, based on both frequently asked questions and general information disseminated in various gunner threads on the forums.
General Bowgun Assembly (ASSEMBLY)
In general, your bowgun should be developed for a specific kind of shot. Mixing status/damage comes at the cost of limiting loading capacity of either, which means reduced performance in that field.
There are two things you want to avoid with bowguns: Deviation and Recoil. The frame and the barrel determine the deviation level, and the frame and the stock determine the recoil value. You will need a certain recoil value to fire some valuable shots recoil-free. For example, status S L2 and Clust S require "Min" recoil. Optimally, the combination of your bowgun setup and your armor setup should allow you to fire shots without recoil, and with no deviation.
If your bowgun utilizes piercing shots, then reducing the range will compact the distance they travel between hits. This is great for compacting shots onto a weak hitzone, such as Jhoís belly.
Armor skills (GUNSKILLS)
Your armor skills should round out the weaknesses that the bowgun has, and then improve the function (damage/load capacity) of the shots. Evade+ is also a valuable choice.
Range mods (RANGEMODS)
For Pierce and Normal S, shots have range modifiers. They are accompanied by both visual and audio signals that you have successfully landed the hit.
White Flash: 1.5x damage
On impact, it makes a loud, complete sound on hitting the monster
Yellow Flash: 1.0x damage
On impact, the sound is muffled.
Orange Flash: .8x damage
The sound is now hardly noticeable.
Red Flash: .5x damage
It makes a bouncing sound, similar to the bouncing sound made on a blademaster weapon.
Obviously, this is important for Normal/Pierce gunning. Pierce S is superior in general damage, but Normal S is best for learning the range modifier differences on the hit animations. Shoot a kelbi in the face from point blank, from a couple rolls away, and figure out how to tell the difference between the optimal white flash and the suboptimal yellow-red flashes. Next, apply this to range compacted pierce S range (which for .6 range would be a distance of 1.8-3 rolls) and work on firing every shot so that all of the hits of Pierce S L1 hit the weakest hitzone of the monster, while in optimal range.
Whatís the Best Setup? (BESTSETUP)
There is no optimal gun for every situation. Considering that armor skills should be built around the function of your gun, that means there is also no optimal armor skill setup.
Here is some general information for the types of shots you may want to use.
Pierce is the bread and butter of your shots because it has reliably high damage. There is rarely a situation where pierce ISNíT useful. As such, it is commonly recommended by bowgun users.
* By compacting the range, standing in the optimal range, and firing into the weakest spot, you can land all of the hits on that weak hitzone for massive damage.
* With the proper combine materials, you have a near-inexhaustible stockade of ammo. This is enough so that, that given proper buffs, you can solo Jhen Mohran.
* It is minimally disruptive to teammates while dealing high damage.
* As the levels increase, the shots do less damage per hit, but hit more times in sequence. While, mathematically, L3 shots should outdamage L1 shots, thatís rarely the case. In practice, itís hard to land all the hits, even compacted, into a weak hitzone. Furthermore, gun parts that have high capacities for higher level pierce shots have some heavy downsides that make them hard to incorporate into an effective bowgun set.
Out of Vampirecosmonautís FAQ, I especially recommend these guns for high-rank pierce spam
Rathling+ Frame / Barrozooka Barrel / Diablozooka Stock: The best Pierce 1 capacity, while maintaining acceptable Pierce 2 loading capacity. This is the gun of choice for hitting medium-sized wyverns in their weak spots for massive damage.
Thundacrus Rex Frame / Devilís Grin Barrel / Thundacrus Stock: This gun has a balanced load of 5/4/3 pierce shots, and a modest .8 range modifier. It also has some status rounds in it, as well. This would be more effective for giant monsters, like World Eater Jho or Jhen Mohranís mouth.
For low rank:
Jaggid Fire Frame / Barrozooka Barrel / Rathling or Thundacrus stock: Sticking with pierce 1 is recommended more than usual because pierce 2 is rapid-fired. Rapid fire pierce has recoil that can never be mitigated, and it limits the ability to spam shots.
Normal shots are more reliable than pierce shots in that they are usable on even smaller monsters, such as minions. They also have a more forgiving range modifier, letting you fire even close or farther than range-compacted pierce shots. As such, they are the physical shot of choice underwater.
On a monster that only takes good damage in one hitzone, like raged Jho, then Normal L2 should be preferred over L3. If the monster takes high damage almost universally along its body, such as Uragaan, then L3 would be preferable. In less clear-cut situations, go with whatever has the highest load capacity first.
A special gun that is commonly used for normal gunning is the Vulcannon. It boasts immense attack, a high range, and a shield. Despite being a folding heavy bowgun, it works great in the water, performing well at Fire, Pierce, and Normal shots even with the reduced range.
This shot is only really useful for minions. That being said, destroying clusters of minions with a couple pellet shots is very entertaining.
Elements are fairly straightforward, and are explained in Vampirecosmonautís FAQ to a better detail than I care to do.
Generally, pierce shots will outdamage elemental shots. There are some situations where it is either more convenient or more effective to use elements, however.
* Underwater gunning may get more milage out of elemental shots than pierce shots, due to depth perception being harder to gauge.
* Firing Fire S on Gigginox when sheís on the ceiling is useful and fun. Range-compacted pierce is somewhat self-defeating, as it loses the ability to hit the ceiling at an optimal range.
* Great Jaggi and Great Baggi are too small to spam pierce shots when you are on their side. Shoot them in the face with fire instead.
* Uragaan takes more damage from Dragon S in the head than Pierce on the body. You have a really limited supply of Dragon shots, even with combines, but a group of gunners sporting Dragon S can mow down Uragaan.
Status gunning makes status blademasters look weak and puny. There are three variations on status gunning:
1. Status/trap gunning. This consists of abusing sleepbombing, parabombing and general trap spam to let the three other players focus solely on the weakest hitzone while bombs break everything needed. This wraps up quests insanely fast.
2. Mixed pierce/status gunning. Instead of solely using status, traps, and bombs, this setup mainly inflicts a couple of statuses, follows up with some traps, and then returns to pierce spam. This requires less preparation and is easier to use, but doesnít lock the monster in place for the entirety of its life.
3. Sleepbombing. You probably already know what this means.
Sedition21 has this method for status/trap gunning any trappable monster:
ďSleep - > Bomb
Para -> Exhaust the face for KO
Trap -> Combine
Para -> Para Bomb
Sleep -> Bomb -> Wake-up trap
Look at combines, attempt para.
Trap -> Bomb/Pierce
If it's still breathing your team is doing something wrong.Ē
For both this setup and the mixed strategy, Thundacrus Rex Frame / Devilís Grin Barrel / Chaos Wing stock is the gun used. The mixed variant may also switch out the stock for thundacrus.
For sleepbombing, Blizzard Cannon frame / Jhen Cannon Barrel / Jhen Cannon Stock gives a huge stock of sleep shots while being recoil-free with Recoil Down +2.
Cluster S L2 is the preferred level of this line of shots because it can be combined with Wyvern Claws. Since you can carry 50 of them, while only 10 of either Bomberry or Scatterfish, youíll be using L2 a lot more.
The advantages of Clust S L2 as a damage source:
* Static damage. Clust S L2 can deal 100 damage from this alone. It also deals some fire damage
* Explosions are pretty.
* With the proper setup, you can quickly fire off all 5 clust shots without recoil.
* Clust can destroy underwater monsters.
* A group of clust gunners can kill everything fast. A gunner fed materials by teammates can almost singlehandedly kill Jhen insanely fast.
* Did I mention that everything is better with explosions? Itís fun as hell!
The disadvantages are:
* Explosions send blademasters flying from the monster. If you donít position right, youíll harass the hell out of your teammates.
* That bowgun setup I mentioned? Itís a heavy bowgun. Also it doesnít have a shield. You canít get evade+, either. Have fun with that.
* Combining that frequently can get old fast.
The setup is Rathling+ frame / Rathling+ frame / Agnablaster stock. The armor is a Barrage piercing, and Jhen+ gunner everything else. A lot of talismans work, but the most common one will be the three slot talisman. After gemming, you should have Load Up, Clust S All up, and Recoil Down +3.
Special thanks to Capcom for making the Monster Hunter series, natch.
Thanks to everyone the GameFAQs boards who frequently discuss game information, or just keep the forum alive and mirthful, as well as those who maintain the website resources that I am linking to with this.
Special forum contributors (to be added, PM me if you feel slighted that I missed you):
Vampirecosmonaut and DaiIchiban for the ďToo Many Bad Gunners at High RankĒ threads.
Omega Bahumat, Sedition21, Newts_Ute, ElectricDoodie and a great many others for rational discussion and some mold-breaking strategies.
I don't know if you said it anywhere in there, but check the FAQs. They have tons of good info.
Good job though, requested sticky.
"I understand your intentions were noble" - A Mod/Admin
I've never really bowgunned, so I found that section particularly interesting.
Vyers on MHTri (EU)
If this still doesn't get stickied in 14 days, I'll do so.
Mod reason : It seemed like you were having fun. We mods cannot comprehend humor and thus decided your post was confusing.-The_tall_midget