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    Throw FAQ by CreeD

    Version: 0.6 | Updated: 02/09/97 | Printable Version | Search Guide | Bookmark Guide

    From: meshe@clinic.net (CreeD)
    Newsgroups: rec.games.video.arcade
    Subject: VF3 throw FAQ v. 0.6 <warning> :)
    Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 19:07:07 GMT
    Organization: The Destek Group, Inc.
    Lines: 1187
    
    
    	You FAQ writers know how it is. There's this initial burst of
    inspiration and then you run out of gas.  After about two bursts of
    writing, what follows is the product of about two hours of typing,
    maybe three.  Nobody will believe that I'm sure..
    anyway, it should format pretty well on most browsers, I intentionally
    made narrow margins.  PLEASE send comments and corrections.
    There's a lot of stuff where I've just drawn a blank.   There's other
    stuff where nobody can confirm exactly what's going on.
    Anyway, half of it is done, the other half is gonna be even longer
    because I'm describing every throw in the game and what's notable
    about it :) auieeegUh!
    
    ----------------------
    
    *[Cheese!@]*[Cheese!@]*[Cheese!@]*[Cheese!@]*[Cheese!@]*[Cheese!@]*
    
    -The Virtua Fighter 3
    
    	XXXXXXXXX
         [    X    ]
              X 
              X   H R O W I N G
              X 
             _X_             ==XXXXXXX
                               X      ]
                               XXXX;
                               X       A Q 
                               X
                              _X_
    
    
    *Written by CreeD!*
    *With dinky ASCII art!*
    *Whipped up in no time at all!*
    *Big Legal disclaimer at bottom!*
    -plus throw escape guide, absolutely free!-
    
    Contents:
    --------------------
    I. Intro.
    II. Notation.
       A. Mini-Intro.
       B. Controls and VF shorthand.
       C. Buttons.
       D. Assorted shorthand abbreviations.
    III. Basics of Throwing.
       A. What's a throw?
       B. How do I throw?
       C. The different throw types.
          1. Normal throws.
          2. Catch throws.
          3. Multi-throws.
          4. Low throws.
          5. Side throws.
          6. Back throws.
          7. Ground throws.
          8. Wall throws.
          9. Back-turned throws.        
          10. Hit throws.
    D. Technical Details.
    IV. Throw Strategies
       A. When should I throw?
       B. What's ticking?
          1. Why ticking works.
          2. Who can tick, and how.  
          3. When to tick.
    V. Big Legal Disclaimer.
    VI. Assorted Thanks.
    VII. Secret Message.
    
    SECTION ONE:
    The intro.
    -----------------
    
    I'll keep this brief, because to do otherwise would be pointless 
    and time consuming.  I wrote this because I felt the hankering 
    to see really basic stuff like this put down on paper for all 
    those who are trying to learn what is, in my opinion, a difficult 
    aspect of an already difficult game.  I also think there should 
    be more useful stuff along these lines posted in RGVA in the 
    first place, so I'm hoping my efforts will be a cue to others,
    and will inspire them to put their own knowledge and ideas down
    in some form that is more substantial than a handful of Usenet posts.
    Really, it'd be a good idea if EVERY experienced VF3 player
    who could spare the time would put down some of the stuff that is
    second nature to him, and to most of the rest of us..
     ---but has only become so after much practice and experimentation.
    
    SECTION TWO:
    Notation.
    --------------------
    
    I assume the reader already has some sort of experience with
    Virtua Fighter 3, or at least Virtua Fighter 2. This knowledge
    will come in extremely handy when I discuss different points 
    in this FAQ.  The casual reader should probably take a second
    to check out some of the other excellent FAQ publications on 
    these games.  The place to stop first and foremost for
    these handy guides is The Home of Virtua Fighter, an excellently
    organized web page dedicated to Virtua Fighter 2 AND 3. There
    is a frame enhanced version and a no-frames version of this page,  
    the URL is:
    
    www.vfhome.com
    
    ... be sure to pick either VF2 or VF3 and then look under the FAQS/
    GUIDES header for more info.
    
    	Okay, to the nitty gritty.
    
    All throws in this game, with NO exceptions, are performed by hitting
    the punch and guard buttons at the same time or in a few cases hitting
    punch, kick, and guard at the same, usually in conjunction with
    joystick 
    taps or the more complex joystick roll motions. Every character in the
    
    game has a basic, low damage throw that can be done simply by hitting 
    punch and guard at the same time with NO joystick movement.  By adding
    
    joystick movements to your punch-and-guard button taps, you will be 
    able to create more complex, interesting throws (usually) that are 
    harder for the opponent to break out of.  A good rule of thumb to go
    by is this: The more complex the joystick motion is that is associated
    with a throw, the more damage that throw probably does.  For example, 
    if Jeffry hits punch and guard with no joystick motion, he gets a 
    fireman's carry throw that does 60 points of damage.
    	If Jeffry hits back on the joystick and punch and guard, he will
    get the military press throw, which does 75 points of damage but ALSO 
    sets up a guaranteed stomp on the opponent's skull afterwards for
    extra
    damage and of course more entertainment value ;) . 
    	Neither of these throws though is as effective as the crucifix 
    piledriver, which looks the most painful and >IS< the most painful,
    delivering 80 points of damage and ALSO giving Jeffry the opportunity
    to stomp on his opponent or try for the riskier light pounce. That
    throw 
    requires two diagonal joystick taps to do though so it's harder and
    takes
    a split second longer to pull off than the other two throws.
    
    
    Controls and VF shorthand:
    
    There are eight joystick directions,
    most of which are used for different 
    throws by different characters 
    somewhere in the game.  
    Here are their abbreviations and
    what they all mean:
    -
    f or F:   Stands for, respectively, a light tap or longer continuous
    (forward) press in the direction of your opponent.  This applies even
              in situations where your back is turned.
    
    b or B:   Stands for, respectively, a light tap or longer continuous 
    (back)    press away from your opponent. Again, this applies even when
              your back is turned.
    
    d or D_:  Stands for, respectively, a light tap down or a longer 
    (down)    continuous press that should result in a crouch.
    
    u or U_:  Stands for, respectively, a light tap or continuous press 
    (up)      of up on the joystick. 
    
    d/f or D/F:    Stands for, respectively, a light tap or longer 
    (down-forward) continuous press of the diagonal between down and
                   forward on the joystick.
    
    d/b or D/B:    Stands for, respectively, a light tap or longer
    (down-back)    continuous press of the diagonal between down and
                   back on the joystick.
    
    u/f or U/F:    Stands for, respectively, a light tap or longer 
    (up-forward)   continuous press of the diagonal between up and 
                   forward on the joystick.
    
    u/b or U/B:    Not used, hell with it.
    
    As you can see, all capitalized directional notations indicate
    that you should press the appropriate joystick direction for 
    about a quarter of a second <approximately> in the direction 
    indicated.
    
    Buttons:
    There are only three we'll be dealing with
    in this FAQ. Those buttons are punch, 
    guard, and kick. 
    They are abbreviated like this:
    
    P : stands for punch.
    G : stands for guard.
    K : stands for kick.
    + : indicates to hit the buttons and/or joystick 
       motion at the same time.
    , : the comma is used to indicate that you must enter
        consecutive joystick motions quickly, e.g. f,b means to tap 
        forward and then tap back.
    
    P+G: stands for hitting punch and guard at the same time.
         You'll see it a lot. It's the most basic throw in the 
         game.
    
    P+K+G: stands for hitting the three buttons punch, kick, and
           guard all at the same time. You will only see this in 
           reference to low throws, which I define later.
    
    Quiz time: if you've read this correctly, you
    should be able to tell me what each of these means.
    
    1. b,f,f+P+G
    
    Time's up. This means you should tap, not hold, back on the stick,
    then tap back on the stick again, then forward on the stick.. and
    at the same time as you hit forward, you should hit the punch and 
    guard buttons too. Yes, this is an actual throw in the game.
    
    2. D_,b+P+G
    
    If you came up with hold down, and then hit back and punch and
    guard all at the same time, go get yourself a cookie, that's correct.
    You basically want to crouch and then hit back on the stick with your
    usual throw buttons in order to pull this one off. Yes, this too
    is an actual throw in the game, throws that must be done FC <from 
    crouch> are a new to the VF series.
    
    3. d/f,D/F,P+G. 
    
    This is the equivalent of one quick diagonal tap and then a second, 
    extended tap in the same direction followed almost immediately by
    the punch-and-guard press. This is a modification of an existing 
    throw that has been around since VF1, the crucifix piledriver.
    
    4. d/f+P+K+G.
    
    If you read this correctly, you are to tap the joystick diagonally
    at the same time as you hit punch, kick, and guard. The four inputs 
    must be simultaneous.
    
    Shorthand and Abbreviations:
    
    Catch: Signifies that the throw is a catch throw, which I'll 
           define later.
    
    Multi: Signifies the starting motion for a multithrow.
           The rest of the multithrow will be shown below it
           and indented. I will try to 'tree out' the various
           multithrow options clearly and concisely. (more on
           multithrows later).
    
    Setup: This signifies that the throw sets up some kind of followup,
           whether it's a combo, a single strike, or something else.
    
    Low  : Indicates that the throw only works on crouching opponents.
    Note
    	 That there is possibly an exception in the case of a sitting Shun
           Di; he is so low to the ground that he is considered low
    although
           he is not technically crouching.  
    
    Side : Signifies that the throw is a side throw. That means it will
           activate if you are basically facing your opponent's side, more
           than thirty degrees off their front or back. It is possible to
           do low throws from the side as well, creating a new
    subcategory,
           the low side throw.
    
    Back : Signifies that this throw is a back throw and will only work 
    	 if you are basically facing the opponent's back, give or take a
           few degrees.
    
    Ground : Signifies that the throw only works on a prone opponent, 
    	   meaning an opponents who has been knocked down or otherwise
             slammed or tossed onto the ground.  The opponent must not be 
             moving or attacking for the ground throw to work.
    
    Wall : Designates throws that change when they are done when either
    you
           or your opponent is near a wall.  Some wall throws require you
    to 
           have your back to the wall, others require that the *opponent* 
           has his back against a wall.  To clarify which is needed I'll 
           type a short descriptive such as "your back to the wall:" or
           "opponent's back to the wall:"
    
    Hit  : This is a special type of throw that I'll save for last.. it's 
           fairly unusual because it breaks some of the standard rules of 
           throwing.  A "hit" throw is a throw that ONLY works for special
           circumstances where the opponent has been hit by a specific
    attack.
           Your character will, after connecting with the attack,
    automatically
           grab the opponent if you input the correct motion, apparently 
           during the opponent's hitstun.  This adds functionality to some
           of the seemingly useless attacks in the game such as Jeffry's
    toe
           kick.  It is unknown at this point whether hit throws can be
    escaped
           the same way normal throws can.  
    
    *    : the asterisk signifies a special note about the throw
           if it behaves unusually or is worthy of note in some way.
    
    SECTION THREE:
    The Basics.
    ------------------------
    
    What's a throw?
    
    	I had a lengthy explanation of what exactly constitutes a throw 
    but I've decided to axe it in favor of something more concise and
    useful.
    I'm going to assume that the reader has SOME vague idea of what I mean
    when I say 'throw'.  Throwing the opponent is for the most part simply
    
    grappling with them at close range with the intention of inflicting 
    damage. 
    
    -Here are some GENERAL rules about what constitutes a throw, and a 
     little on the usage.
    
    *Throws USUALLY involve one character grabbing the other and then
     either slamming them into the ground, tossing them, or bashing them
     repeatedly with attacks.  90% of the throws in the game start with
    one
     character grappling with their opponent, but there are a few
    exceptions.
     Some throws look like a strike or series of strikes, but unlike most
     of the strikes in the game, the throw-strikes can never be blocked.
    
    *It is possible to escape a throw.  That means almost ANY throw can,
     with the proper command and timing, be escaped or otherwise avoided/
     defeated by the victim of the throw.  This aspect of throw strategy 
     is covered in another FAQ.
    
    *The only throws that can NOT be escaped are catch throws.  More on
     that later.
    
    *No throw, even the ones that look like strikes, can be blocked. They
     can be escaped, avoided, and even interrupted, but never blocked.
     Your first instinct may be to defend the first few times wolf rushes
     at you with his running tackle throw for example (f,f+P+G) ... break
     that habit. 
    
    *As a general rule, you cannot throw an opponent if the opponent is 
     attacking. You can throw them AFTER their attack or attack sequence
     has finished, but not during an attack. There are exceptions to this
     rule. Specifically, it is possible to throw a person during the first
     FRAME of their attack, regardless of what attack they are attempting.
     All that means is that if you throw someone at literally the EXACT 
     same time that they hit the button to attack you, your throw will 
     win, but if you tried throwing them a fraction of a second later, the
    
     throw will whiff and their attack will win.
    
    *Normal throws have no execution time. That means that, unlike
    attacks,
     they can be done INSTANTLY, and if the conditions are correct for a 
     throw at the moment you hit P+G, then the throw will happen
    immediately.
    
    *Normal throws DO have recovery time if the throw failed.  When you 
     attempt a normal throw on someone (this includes low throws,
     back throws, side throws, and ground throws) the conditions for the 
     throw have to be correct in order for it to occur.  When they aren't
     correct, then your character will reach out and make a grasping
    motion
     with their hands. The grasp motion is small but obvious and takes a
    few
     frames to recover. For catch throws, there is also recovery time and
    in
     every case catch recovery is longer. 
    	  During the grasp motion, you are vulnerable to any throw or 
     attack in the game, and cannot block or otherwise move. This is, 
     IMHO, a rather obvious and EXTREMELY beneficial change to the
    gameplay
     since VF2.  Throw attempts no longer come out as attacks, which can 
     alternately be 'good' or 'bad' for specific characters.. it's "bad" 
     for sarah, kage, lau, jeff, and jacky that they cannot attempt a 
     throw that will come out as an elbow if the opponent crouches. It's 
     also "bad" for akira, who cannot attempt the surprise exchange over 
     and over and merely get a low jab.  On the other hand, in the case 
     of throws such as jacky's trip and hammer or lion's pull-in uppercut 
     throw, it's much BETTER that there is now a standard whiff animation 
     as opposed to the big, easily punished attacks that used to result 
     from failing to connect these throws.
     
    *Catch throws DO have execution time. Like attacks, they require a 
     certain amount of time to execute before they will be effective.
     Until that time has passed, the catch throw is 'inactive'.. it won't
     work, no grabbing animation or damage will occur. After the inactive
     time has passed, a throw will become 'active', although it may only
     remain active for a very short amount of time. As long as it's
    active,
     it has the potential to grab opponents, even if they are attacking 
     (although it's rare to grab people out of attacks.. the attack would
     have to come out fairly slowly).  It is not known yet if a major 
     counter bonus is awarded if a catch throw interrupts an attack.
     	Even if the conditions for a catch throw are correct at the 
     moment you hit P+G, the conditions might change in the short space of
     time between your attempt to throw and the time the throw becomes 
     active. Therefore, you want to use catch throws ideally when
    conditions
     will not and cannot change during your throw's execution. That means 
     that a good situation for a throw attempt would be during the
    recovery 
     of a move that your opponent failed to connect with. *If the recovery
    
     of a missed attack is greater than the execution time of the catch 
     throw you want to try, then in effect you will be able to use a throw
    
     on your opponent "for free"* .. Meaning that they literally cannot 
     do anything about the throw, since catch throws are completely 
     inescapable once they connect.  This is not the case for normal
    throws
     so it can be useful to make a habit of minor countering slow recovery
     moves with catch throws.  
     
    *A throw beats a dodge, regardless of the timing of the dodge or the
     type of throw. Hence, when the opponent gets cute by dodging most or
     all of your attacks, start throwing. It is confirmed that a throw 
     will even grab opponents out of dodging attacks such as the special
     K+E [,G] dodge.
    
    *There is a minor counter bonus applied to throws.  While I don't have
    
     the exact figures, according to some sources (Rich Williams on RGVA)
     the minor counter bonus is much, much smaller than it was in VF2.  
     Therefore, when you throw opponents during the recovery of their 
     attacks, your throw will do more damage than usual, but apparently
     the bonus is only about 5% more damage, not the impressive 25% bonus
     seen in VF2.  The minor counter bonus only applies to the first chunk
     of damage done by a throw, so that if the throw does damage in
    multiple
     parts, the bonus for that throw on minor counters will be somewhat 
     small compared to the damage for a similarly damaging throw that
    takes
     off its damage all in one large piece.
               Presumably, the minor counter bonus applies to any and
     all throws including catch throws.  It is not known what kind of 
     bonuses, if any, can be applied to ground throws.
    
    *There are a few rare instances where a throw does 
     not even LOOK like a grappling maneuver because it appears to be 
     a strike, or a series of strikes that the opponent cannot defend 
     against. Regardless of the throw's animation, though, once the throw 
     is successful it will always animate the same way and always cause
    the
     same results on the opponent, whether the results are a loss of
    energy
     or merely a loss of orientation.  
    
    Q: How do I throw?
    
    *If you want the specifics listed, skip to the next section and read
    on.
     If you want a general written out explanation, that follows this
    little 
     disclaimer.
    
    	Well, the obvious answer to the question is to get really close to
    your opponent and hit P+G and maybe a direction or two on the joystick
    
    when you're really sure that your opponent isn't attacking, but that 
    doesn't cover much of anything. Because each character is limited to 
    a specific set of throws that they are able to perform, you often will
    have to choose your throwing tactics more wisely in human vs. human 
    battles than you did in VF2, especially now that most throws can be 
    escaped. 
    	If you refuse to vary your throwing strategy, you might find that
    you will tend to keep eating huge attacks every time you make it
    obvious 
    that you're trying to sneak in close for a throw. It is almost
    impossible 
    to throw a person while they are attacking, and in most cases it's 
    -completely- impossible unless you're using a special type of throw 
    known as a catch throw. Even then, you're not likely to be able to 
    grab opponents predictably. If you don't vary your throwing habits 
    once you ARE close enough to grab, you will find that your throws will
    keep being escaped by astute opponents, and you will never get to
    damage
    them until your strategy changes. That's why I'm also making a
    complete
    throw escape guide, which will cover all the throws that you should
    watch
    out for, and which throws you want to mix into your throwing strategy
    as
    well. You want to make it hard for the opponent to correctly guess
    both
    -when- you are going to throw them, and -which throw- you will use
    when 
    you DO throw them. Do not assume that you can catch throw them all the
    time
    either, because although a catch throw is inescapable and can
    interrupt 
    attacks, it can also easily BE interrupted.  Catches can ALL actually
    be 
    escaped by the simple act of crouching too, so if your opponent
    figures 
    out that you're fond of a particular catch throw, they can duck to
    make 
    it whiff over their heads, which is more dangerous for you since the
    whiff
    animation for catch throws is longer and more obvious than it is for 
    regular throws.
    
    =The throw types.=
    
    	Every throw in the game can be classified as one of ten types, 
    but that statement is deceptive because it makes VF3 throws sound even
    
    more complex than they already are. 90% of the throws in the game fall
    into two categories, "regular" throws and "catch" throws.  These are 
    the throws that most of your concentration should go to. The other 
    throws such as low throws and ground throws, or side throws and back 
    throws, don't have as many details to worry about, so try to learn
    the specifics of normal throws and catch throws before you worry about
    side throws, ground throws, etc.
    
    -Regular/Normal throws-
    
    	These are the most common throws. All regular throws can be 
    escaped. All regular throws have no startup animation, which means 
    that they will execute instantly if possible, and they all have the
    exact same whiff animation.  Every character has at LEAST three or
    four regular throws. The easiest way to test whether a throw is 
    a regular throw is to see if it has a small grasping whiff animation 
    or a more obvious whiff animation such as a lunge forward or hop.
    Every character has a neutral P+G normal throw that is in most cases
    one of their least effective throws, but is easy to do and harder to
    escape than you'd think.  If you are unsure about the throwing 
    abilities of your chosen character, neutral P+G is always a safe bet 
    that should produce mediocre results.  Often I will hear throws other 
    than the P+G throw referred to as "command throws" but I believe that
    classifying them this way, and hence separating them from other
    throws,
    is misleading. Where before (in VF2) neutral P+G was considered a
    'bad' 
    throw for every character and uniquely, specifically bad because it 
    was always escaped, it now has a higher status and belongs on the same
    
    level as most other throws in the game, as a useful, generic
    technique.
    If you insist on trying for a flashy throw, you probably want a 
    throw that requires special joystick motions, but if you want fast and
    
    reliable damage that people often fail to escape properly, or if you
    want to surprise the opponent with a running grab, neutral P+G's are 
    quite handy. The lack of joystick motions allow you to do the throw
    instantly, and this is really useful in situations where a split
    second
    is all that separates you from throwing and from being thrown (such as
    
    the F+E run in throw technique: if your opponent sees you run in and
    you
    stop in front of him for a split second while you do a b,f motion on 
    the joystick or a more obvious d/f, d/f motion, they might interpret
    that 
    sudden stop correctly as your attempt to throw them, and counter a
    split
    second before you hit P+G with their own P+G throw).
    
    -Catch throws-
    
    	All catch throws share some technical attributes but have unique 
    uses that really depend on the situation. The similarities between all
    catch throws though is that they cannot be escaped, and that they have
    execution time and in most cases larger than average recovery.  They
    all can be avoided by crouching. There are no low catch throws
    in the game. If your reflexes are good, you may choose to try to knock
    opponents out of catch throws with attacks, although this is difficult
    in the case of all but the most obvious catch throw attempts.
    Generally
    you're better off avoiding catch throw attempts by anticipation 
    (followed by a quick crouch to make the throw attempt whiff over your
    head). Once a catch throw has been missed, punish at will.
    	The best advice I can give for usage of catch throws is to use them 
    when you anticipate that your opponent will defend high.  They're not 
    perfect for use as minor counter throws because of their slight 
    execution time, but they are good for a surprise when used
    offensively.
    For the faster catches, such as Wolf's f+P+G, you can reliably minor 
    counter attacks that have a fair amount of recovery.  Otherwise, 
    mix catch throws in with midlevel attacks to bait the opponent into 
    blocking high and getting 'caught'.  You can also try catch throws
    when your opponent is likely to anticipate a normal throw attempt, and
    your catch throw in this case will grab them out of their escape
    attempt
    for virtually guaranteed damage. Try this tactic after blocking high 
    rising attacks if you're determined to land certain catch throws such 
    as Kage's graphically nifty u/f+P+G catch throw.
    	Some catch throws like akira's back throw are going to be almost 
    impossible to land under any circumstance but don't let that stop you 
    from trying.
    
    -Multi-throws-
    
    	These are like normal throws, but they have several parts. Each
    part requires a separate joystick motion and P+G tap on your behalf,
    and a separate escape motion on the opponent's behalf.  These throws
    behave exactly like normal throws for each part meaning no execution
    time, etc.  There is no whiff animation if you've failed the 2nd and
    3rd part of a multithrow because you cannot fail these parts unless 
    you messed up the timing, messed up the joystick motion, or the throw
    was escaped (in which case there is only a typical escape animation).
    The successful completion of a multithrow usually has a high reward 
    in total damage, but there is inherent risk in using the multithrow 
    because you're gambling that the opponent will fail to input a 
    correct escape two or three times in a row.  The odds of that
    occurring
    are fairly good; since there are only two options at any given 
    point during a multithrow attempt, your opponent has a 50/50 chance
    of breaking it.  Having the second or third part of a multithrow
    broken
    is almost worse, psychologically, than having a normal throw attempt
    escaped because you will have done very little damage to the opponent
    when you made them guess wrong, and you will have lost quite a bit of
    damage potential as a result of their correct guess.  You would have 
    actually been better off doing a one-part normal damaging throw during
    their incorrect guess. Use multithrows as you would normal throws but
    do not get too predictable with them, mix multi attempts in with
    normal grabs to keep the opponent guessing.
    
    -Low throws-
    
    	As you probably guessed, these work on ducking opponents. 
    Conditions and behaviour of these throws matches that of normal throws
    meaning they can be escaped and have an obvious whiff animation, which
    is animated slightly differently but otherwise acts in the same way.
    Use these almost exclusively to punish blocked or whiffed low attacks
    or rising sweeps.  Basically, all sweeps in this game now recover low,
    so if you block a sweep or one whiffs, always low throw. (Before, in 
    VF2, you might have to high OR low throw depending on the specific
    sweep type attack and circumstances).  Curiously, the characters who
    can 
    do low throws (Wolf, Jeffry, Pai, Taka, Aoi) all have either three
    low throws with three different escapes, or only one which is easily
    escaped.
    	It is possible to condition opponents into being snatched up 
    by low throws, but it's harder to condition opponents to block low 
    than it is to condition them into blocking high (although VF3 does 
    have plentitude of handy low attacks for almost every character which
    makes it easier than before). Keep in mind that the two main grapplers
    in the game, Wolf and Jeffry, can low throw opponents from the side
    and from behind. The usage of the low side throw is reserved to when 
    you have dodged an anticipated low attack.  Low back throws are quite
    rare, I have only seen them used in two situations, after 'ticks' and
    after certain missed moves such as a ducked "thunder dragon" 
    (f,f+P+K+G) attack from Kage, which I believe recovers low initially
    and then high. <correct me if I'm wrong>
    
    *There is one special case of a 'canned throw combo' that works
    entirely
    on the principal of conditioning opponents to block low. It doesn't
    work 
    if the attacks preceding the throw connect, even though the attacks
    and
    throw go together in one combo. This is wolf's PP,f+P,d/b+P+K+G throw.
    It's a canned combo (two jabs and an elbow, all of which can be
    avoided
    by simply crouching) followed by a low throw that comes out almost 
    instantly after the elbow finishes execution, meaning you don't have
    to
    wait for PP,f+P to recover before going instantly into the low throw.
    
    	Presumably this is in there because Sega thought people would 
    like to experiment more with the PPf+P combo and set up traps with it.
    
    -Side throws-
    
    	These act just like normal throws, except they cannot be escaped
    and <surprise!> can only be used when your opponent is at a sideways 
    angle (in relation to your character's front). If the angle for a side
    throw attempt is wrong <too shallow> it will turn into a frontal
    throw. 
    There is no angle at which your opponent can NOT be thrown.  If the
    angle for a sidethrow is too severe, it will be a back throw.  There
    are no side catch throws.  In general, side throws do less damage than
    frontal throws, but the damage IS guaranteed at least if conditions
    for
    a side throw attempt have been met.  Some characters have more than
    one 
    side throw, but most characters have only one, done by P+G.  Side
    throws 
    are generally reserved for use on opponents who have just had an
    attack
    dodged and are in recovery.  The same is true of low side throws.
    There are some situations where the opponent will recover from an
    attack
    sideways and can therefore be minor countered with a side throw. 
    
    -Back throws- 
    
    	Behave just like side throws, in that they cannot be escaped.
    All back throws but one have no execution time, but all have recovery
    time if missed.  The one exception is Akira's back throw, which is a
    slow-executing catch throw that only will come out when Akira is 
    behind his opponent.  It also has slower than average recovery.
    These throws all obviously must be done when you are facing the 
    opponent's back, preferably when they are in recovery and unable
    to hit you with a TT <turn-towards> attack. 
    
    -Ground throws- 
    
    	These are special throws that work only on opponents who are lying
    prone and semi-helpless on the ground.  They are used as an
    alternative 
    to pouncing. Ground throws are generally more rewarding than a pounce,
    
    but less likely to connect and riskier.  They all share the d/f+P+G 
    motion, and all have both execution time <slow> and whiff recovery
    <even slower>... reserve your use of these to situations where they
    are
    guaranteed, such as after a heavy knockdown attack, or after certain
    throws or reversals that you recover quickly from and that leave the 
    opponent lying prone, preferably nearby.  Ground throws show some
    characteristics of catch throws, being inescapable and having
    execution
    time.  Ground throws however cannot interrupt a rising attack, and if
    the opponent tries to evade your throw attempt with a roll or by
    kipping up, he will always be successful once he has managed to start 
    moving.  That's why generally it is a better idea to pounce than it is
    
    to ground throw, because if your opponent has started to roll from
    under-
    neath a pounce, they are still vulnerable and the pounce might still 
    connect. If the opponent starts to roll away from a ground throw
    however,
    you are the vulnerable one.
    
    -Wall throws-
    
    	These require you or your opponent to be especially close to a 
    wall in order for them to be successful.  They are inescapable and 
    work like normal throws (except for the escape part :). In fact, 
    they ARE normal throws, for the most part, just with changes in 
    the animation.  Whiffed wall throw attempts are the same as whiffed
    normal throw attempts.  There are no catch style wall throws.
    If the conditions for a regular throw are met AND you or your opponent
    (whichever is appropriate for the throw attempt) is close to a wall,
    the regular throw will alter to reflect the circumstances. Your 
    throw will have a unique animation that matches, partially, the 
    normal throw animation that would be reflected by your joystick
    command,
    but the outcome of the throw attempt will change. For example, d/b+P+G
    
    is a special zero-damage exchange type throw for jeffry.  Doing it 
    close to the wall will cause the same exchanging animation to occur
    initially, but then there's a special followup where jeffry drags his 
    opponent's face across the wall and then knees him in the back.. this 
    followup is impossible without the wall there.  Note that there are
    two
    types of wall in VF3, a low wall that simply prevents easy ring outs, 
    but can be passed over by putting the opponent high into the air, 
    and then there's a high wall that cannot ever be passed over. The high
    wall is required for wall throws.  Note that there may be a high wall
    in the seemingly boundless desert stage, because something stops you
    from running indefinitely in one direction, even though that something
    is not visible.  If it's an invisible high wall, it may be possible 
    to do wall throws on an opponent that appear to take place out in the 
    open, without a wall.  This is something I want to test more for my 
    amusement than because it's essential knowledge :)
    
    
    -Back-turned throws-
    
    	This type of throw hardly deserves its own category, as there are
    only two examples of throws of this type in the entire game. One
    behaves
    like a normal throw, except it probably cannot be escaped <untested>
    .
    this is Shun Di's.  The other is a catch throw basically that only
    comes
    out when your back is turned. Kage does that one.  The conditions for 
    these throws are pretty much like the conditions for a normal throw, 
    except the throwing character (not the throwee) has his back turned
    to the opponent.
    
    -Hit throws-
    
    	A hit throw is a unique <and sometimes uniquely animated> throw
    that will only activate after the opponent has been struck with a
    specific
    attack.  There are very few hit throws in the game, but one of them, 
    Jeffry's "Toe Kick of Doom" (TKOD) has been around since Virtua
    Fighter 1.
    To connect with these throws, simply do the appropriate attack that
    sets the throw up, and if you see that the attack has connected, do
    the appropriate throw motion to grab your opponent WHILE they are
    still in hitstun.  The timing for some of these is tricky, in other
    cases though it's very lax and easy to get the throw to work. I cannot
    confirm one way or the other whether these throws can be escaped by
    conventional throw escapes. I've heard conflicting reports. What I DO 
    know however is that Jeffry's TKoD has been escapable since VF1 by
    simply crouching, which means it might qualify as a catch throw of
    sorts that has no miss animation.  It seems unlikely though that
    jeffry's other hit-throw, the bull toss, can be avoided using that
    method because it seems to grab the opponent much sooner during
    their hitstun, before they have an opportunity to crouch. In any
    case, there's never any risk in attempting the throw, as you won't 
    have to deal with miss animation, only the remaining recovery time of 
    the attack you connected with (which is cancelled usually by the
    grab). Obviously, execution time is not a factor either since the
    grab follows an attack immediately with no apparent reach animation
    in between.
    
    SECTION FOUR: 
    Throw Strategies.
    -----------------------
    
    General tips for when to use throws: 
    
    * When the opponent whiffs an attack.  
    
      By whiff, I mean when the opponent does an attack the misses you 
      completely. If it didn't even touch you, you should have time to
    dash
      in and throw the opponent while they are recovering from their
    attack.
      ANY AND ALL WHIFFED ATTACKS CAN BE THROWN. Keep that in mind. If an 
      opponent throws out an attack and it misses, even one that recovers 
      quickly, there is often time to dash or run in and grab him.  Of
    course,
      it's harder to throw attacks like high jabs on reflex, but if you
      anticipate a specific attack, you should ALWAYS be able to avoid it
      and then counter throw.  That's why it's important to learn the
    technique
      of making opponents whiff their attacks.  In VF2 this was primarily 
      accomplished by back dashing or backwards crouch dashing away from
    the
      attack and then dashing forward again and grabbing them during their
    
      recovery. In VF3, it's primarily accomplished by dodging the linear
      attacks and then throwing them during the recovery. In this case,
    your
      throw may become a side throw instead of whatever frontal throw you 
      inputted.  In a few cases, a dodge will bring you completely behind
    an 
      opponent for a free back throw.
    
    *After blocking moves with stop animation or really slow recovery.
    
      This one is a no brainer. If your opponent uses this huge move like
    a 
      kickflip and you block it, you can then minor counter throw them.
    If
      you're the gambling type, go for a "normal" throw that you like, or 
      some sort of setup throw. If you like to get guaranteed damage, you
    can
      try a catch throw instead, if the move's recovery is lengthy enough
    to 
      allow the catch to connect. Otherwise, it's wise to prefix your
    minor
      counter throws with a f,f or f+E dash, then input your throw
    command.
      Also, watch for certain moves that, when blocked, have a special
    'stop 
      animation'.  Nine times out of ten, moves with stop animation can be
      countered by a throw if blocked. A good example would be almost any
      rising attack in the game.  Sweeps also tend to have stop animation,
    
      as do almost any crescent or spinning type of kick.
    
    *Whenever you get a 'stagger' on the opponent.
    
      Certain moves, when they connect under the right conditions, will
      cause your opponent to stagger. You can NOT throw them while they
    are
      in the stagger.. but you CAN throw them the INSTANT they come out of
    
      the stagger. Therefore, a good trick is to set up a stagger, and
    then
      throw the person as early as you can when they come out of the
    stagger 
      animation. If you can time your throw perfectly, there is almost no
    way
      the opponent can stop the throw aside from guessing your throw
    attempt
      and then escaping it.  Be aware though that if your opponent
    struggles
      out of the stagger, they can recover from it more quickly and mess
    up
      your timing for the throw attempt. They may even manage to recover
    and 
      hit you before you can throw them, or they may throw you first.
    Still,
      despite the risk and possibility of failing the throw, setting up
    the
      stagger and throwing is almost always your best option when you have
      the opportunity to try it.  This skill becomes useful <maybe even 
      essential> at higher levels versus characters like Wolf who will use
    
      the low kick "tick" on you (more on that later). You can counter his
    
      low kick with an elbow, which should cause a stagger if it connects,
    
      and then YOU have the opportunity to throw.  A few elbow
    stagger-throw
      "combos" should discourage the Wolf player from abusing the low kick
    
      technique.
    
    *When you use a 'Tick'. See the next question and answer section for 
     details.
    
    *When opponents play overly defensively. 
    
     	Some opponents love to just machi up and wait for you to
    attack, 
      and they will refuse to be baited into attacking themselves.  Don't 
      let this tactic frustrate you, throw! Some people love to block high
      all day and stay really far away poking with safe attacks. Surprise 
      them with run-in throws and they will be forced to stick attacks out
    
      to prevent your throwing.  You can then try dodging or interrupting 
      those preventative attacks for either big damage, another throw 
      opportunity, or a chance to do a float combo.  Remember that running
    
      in and throwing is much easier in VF3 than you're used to for two 
      reasons: Running by itself is an easy motion, hold forward on the
    stick 
      and the E button.. and a less noticable detail that still helps 
      immensely is the ability to literally run INTO an opponent instead
    of
      stumbling to a stop just outside of throw range.  Before, you
    stopped 
      automatically when you ran too close to the opponent, but now you
    can 
      keep going until you plow into them, and then immediately throw. 
      Making defensive opponents guess your next move by running in and
    then 
      mixing up your strategy should work wonders. Pay attention to when
    they 
      like to block high, and then go for the grab, and be sure to make
    use 
      of certain catch throws as well. These catch throws often LOOK like 
      attacks in their opening frames of execution and can fool the
    opponent 
      into blocking, especially the catch throws that are telegraphed by a
    
      leap into the air, or maybe a shout of some sort. Try to be aware of
    
      opponent's attack and defend patterns, and capitalize on common
    ones.
      A good example would be a jacky or sarah player who loves to harass 
      you with double low kicks. If you anticipate the low kicks, you can 
      block, elbow stagger, and then throw at the stagger's end.  If you
      have good reactions, you can often block the second kick on reflex 
      after getting hit by the first, and then try for an elbow stagger
    into
      throw.  Finally, if you don't have the above traits and cannot FORCE
      your opponent to be thrown, try to watch their habits and see if you
    
      can throw when you THINK they will defend, for example, if the jacky
      and sarah will hit you with the double low kicks a lot, they will 
      expect a retaliation in the form of a sidekick or elbow. Since they 
      know they can recover fast enough after connecting their low kicks 
      to block the sidekick or elbow, they will probably start blocking
    high 
      after the double low kick hits. This is the time to run in and
    throw.
      Only when they start catching on to this should you counter this
    move 
      with some sort of mid attack.
    
     *When you 'condition' the opponent into blocking.   
    
      Some opponents don't start out playing defensively but will often
    turn 
      defensive when you show them certain attacks. For example, if you
      approach people with akira's quick, reliable dashing elbow (which
    hits
      mid and can *duck underneath punches*) then they will often be
    forced
      to either block or dodge the attack since the attack can effectively
    beat 
      any move in their arsenal when timed correctly.  If you do the
    dashing 
      elbow a few times and it connects for a combo, they will hesitate to
    stick
      moves out as often for fear of eating that combo, therefore, they
    will
      start dodging and blocking more than they should have to.
    Anticipate 
      this and throw them while they dodge or block.  Another good
    situation 
      to condition people into being thrown is any time they lose a lot of
    
      'initiative' by using certain attacks. Say your opponent uses a
    sidekick
      and you know it's uncounterable.. what should you do? More often
    than
      you'd think, a throw will work, but to really ensure it, try
    countering
      moves like a blocked sidekick with big float tools such as wolf's 
      small shoulder ram or akira's super dashing elbow.  They will have
    to 
      block these attacks usually to avoid being floated, or at least they
      will have to dodge, so condition them with a few elbows or shoulder
    rams
      and after two or three if these, they will figure out that the best
    thing
      they can do in their situation is block. Go for the throw.
      	Finally, it's possible to bait someone into blocking.  Aoi for
    
      example can come at the opponent with PPP, and then guard cancel her
    
      [expected] sweep, causing the opponent to momentarily crouch.
    Respond
      to this with a surprise low throw after you guard-cancel. Even
    without 
      guard cancels, any character should be able to fool the opponent
    into
      preparing for an expected mid-level attack that you aren't actually 
      going to do. Sarah for example has a fast elbow-knee combo, and
    Sarah
      players will try to be wily with it by delaying the knee. Show
    opponents
      the elbow-delayed knee trick a few times, and when they get used to
    it,
      try following your next blocked or whiffed elbow with a quick
    dash-in 
      throw.
     
    *hit-throw them.  
    
     	Just find a way to connect the attacks that set up hit-throws
    such
      a taka's elbow, jeffry's toe kick, or wolf's two handed chop..once
    these
      have successfully hit the opponent, do the appropriate throw motion
    for 
      your apparently-free throw.  I should stress that you shouldn't
    abuse 
      this technique or rely on it too much to get most of your throws,
    mostly
      because A: the followup throw might be escapable and B: the moves
    that 
      you need to connect in order to land the hit throws in this game are
    
      generally not of the low risk sort, although Taka's attacks are not
    too
      bad for execution and recovery.
    
    *More throwing tips*
    
     -Stumble throws
         
    	Throws that cause a stumble or staggering animation on your
    opponent generally allow you to use additional attacks on them
    to increase the total damage that the throw causes, as long as you
    can hit them while they are still in their helpless stumble or stagger
    animation.  The downside though is that this additional damage is not 
    'free', the opponent can, by rapidly tapping buttons and moving the
    stick,
    recover from your stumble throw faster than usual, and hence give 
    himself more time to block your followups.  If the opponent doesn't 
    struggle at all, then they are likely to be struck by slower, powerful
    attacks.. but if they are fairly good at struggling, only faster,
    weaker
    attacks are going to be likely to connect.  Still, if your opponent 
    consistently struggles and then guards after being 'stumbled', you
    may try using the stumble to set up ANOTHER throw, instead of
    attacking
    right after it.  This will create a mind game your opponent will have
    to
    deal with. .. are you going to attack or throw!? If he guessed throw
    and
    stuck out an attack or crouched, and you attack, he'll be eating your 
    attack probably. If he guessed attack and blocked, he might eat
    another 
    throw.  My advice on using the stumble throw is to watch and see what
    you can get away with against a specific opponent.  If the answer is 
    'not much' then you're probably better off doing some other guaranteed
    damage throw.  If they show that their struggling skills are not up to
    speed, then you should go with your stumble throw and powerful
    followups 
    to it until they start escaping.  Remember that your reward for
    landing
    a stumble throw but no followups is really small, stumble throws do
    puny
    damage by themselves and really need decent followups to be
    worthwhile.
    
    -Exchange throws
    
    	I call throws that do no damage but set your opponent up for
    attacks "exchange throws" .. they are generally the type of throw that
    turns the opponent around so that their back is facing you, and both
    you and your opponent will usually have switched ring position.
    For the most part, exchange throws have very few if any 100%
    guaranteed
    followups, but unlike stumble throws they cannot be struggled out of
    to
    avoid damage entirely, because exchange throws always cause the same 
    amount of reel or stagger animation for the victim.  The person
    performing
    the throw will also always recover the same way and usually at about 
    the same time as the opponent.
    	Basically, exchange throws set up the same fun guessing game that
    arises versus an opponent who like to struggle out of your stumble 
    throws: Will you throw or will you attack?  At first it would seem
    that the stumble throws are better, since they set up the same 
    guessing game as exchange throws but also do a little damage. The 
    difference is that exchange throws work on everyone and force a
    more 'pure' 50/50 type guessing game because there are no special
    factors to deal with such as the opponent's struggle ability. The
    guessing game boils down to the exact same handful of options
    regardless
    of circumstances and regardless of the opponent's skill level. If you
    know they will dodge or attempt to run away, you can get a back throw
    on them. If you know they will try to TT attack you, you can interrupt
    the TT attack with your own powerful attack.
    
    -Mixing throws up
    
    	This should be obvious, but I'll say it <again> anyway.  Mix your
    throws up. Do not attempt to do the same throw on somebody over and
    over,
    and do not attempt the same small set of two or three throws every
    time 
    if you can help it.  You should always have at least three viable
    throws
    in mind that you can use to keep the opponent guessing. If you don't,
    and
    if you insist on using only one or two throws over and over, then you
    have
    just drastically increased the chances that your throw will be
    escaped.
    Don't let that happen to you.  I'll include a list of everyone's best 
    throw options so that you know which three (or more) you should be
    ready
    to use at any time, and which throws you shouldn't use as much
    .unless
    you're facing an opponent who is amazing at guessing what you're going
    
    to do. 
    
    -Minor counter throwing
    
    	Don't try to minor counter something with a throw just because it 
    LOOKS like it has slow recovery.  Look up the exact statistic and keep
    in
    mind what can be throw countered and what cannot.  It may be tempting
    in 
    the case of a blocked knee or dragon cannon to attempt a dash in
    throw,
    but even though the recovery LOOKS bad enough to allow your throw, it
    isn't
    and you'll be leaving yourself open to heavy attacks.  Learn from 
    both experience and various FAQ publications and such what you can
    safely
    counter with throws and what cannot be countered with throws. 
    	In a few rare cases, such as a situation where you've blocked a 
    knee, you MIGHT have an opportunity to throw if the conditions are 
    correct, because you DO have a 1/60th of a second advantage, but it's
    very very hard to time something like that correctly and is probably 
    more risk than it's worth to attempt a throw.  If you find there are
    certain attacks that are not 'supposed' to be throw counterable, yet 
    you can throw counter them consistently despite your opponent's
    efforts
    to stop you, then it's possible that you have met those special
    conditions
    and you have the timing to throw perfectly.  On the other hand, it
    could
    be that your opponent is incompetent. Regardless, if it works, use it,
    but be aware it might not always work versus some competition.
     
    ----------------------
    
    okay, that's it so far, I'll do the rest, don't worry.
    and after this, I start work on the throw escape FAQ.
    That one should be shorter and easier.
    I hope.
    
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