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    FAQ/Driving Guide by Wolf Feather

    Version: Final | Updated: 04/10/03 | Search Guide | Bookmark Guide

    
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    SHOX: GAME GUIDE
                       
    by
                       
    Jamie Stafford/Wolf Feather
    feather7@ix.netcom.com
                       
                       
                       
                       
                       
    Initial Version Completed: March 24, 2003
    FINAL VERSION Completed:   April 10, 2003
    
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    CONTENTS
    Spacing and Length
    Permissions
    Introduction
    Getting Started
    Shox Zones
    Attaining Cars
    Taking on the Champion (Shox Championship)
    Vehicle List
    General Tips
    Shox Zones
    Racing Tips: Braking
    Racing Tips: Cornering
    Racing Tips: Coasting
    Racing Tips: Weight Shifts
    Contact Information
    
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    SPACING AND LENGTH
    For optimum readability, this driving guide should be
    viewed/printed using a monowidth font, such as Courier.
    Check for font setting by making sure the numbers and letters
    below line up:
    
    1234567890123456789012345678901234567890123456789012
    ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZabcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz
    
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    PERMISSIONS
    Permission is hereby granted for a user to download and/or
    print out a copy of this driving guide for personal use.
    However, due to the extreme length, printing this driving
    guide may not be such a good idea.
    
    This driving guide may only be posted on: FeatherGuides,
    GameFAQs.com, f1gamers.com, PSXCodez.com, Cheatcc.com,
    gamesover.com, Absolute-PlayStation.com, RedCoupe,
    GameReactors.com, ps2replay.com, InsidePS2Games.com,
    CheatPlanet.com, The Cheat Empire, gamespot.com,
    ps2domain.net, a2zweblinks.com, Games Domain, Gameguru,
    cheatingplanet.com, neoseeker.com, RobsGaming.com,
    CheatHeaven, IGN, ps2fantasy.com, gamespot.com, and
    vgstrategies.com.  Please contact me for permission to post
    elsewhere on the Internet.
    
    Should anyone wish to translate this driving guide into other
    languages, please contact me for permission(s) and provide me
    with a copy when complete.
    
    Remember:  Plagiarism in ANY form is NOT tolerated!!!!!
    
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    INTRODUCTION
    Shox (also known as Rally Shox in Japan) is an exciting, fun,
    and definitely CHALLENGING over-the-top take on rally-cross
    racing, in the tradition of EA Sports Big's signature titles
    SSX and SSX Tricky.  As in those two games, the action is
    fast and furious, and there are plenty of things to unlock.
    Even once everything has possibly been unlocked at a circuit
    or in a given championship, it is still quite fun to go back
    and rerace again and again and again and again and again and
    again - again, in much the same way as SSX and (especially)
    SSX Tricky.  
    
    Please note that some of the information in this guide comes
    from my General Racing/Driving Guide (available exclusively
    at FeatherGuides and at GameFAQs) and from my V-Rally 3: Game
    Guide (available at numerous Web sites worldwide).
    
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    GETTING STARTED
    After setting up the game and controller options to one's
    liking, the player jumps right in with the Compact
    Championship.  The player's first car in the game is free;
    all others must either be purchased, 'won' via gambling, or
    received for obtaining Gold status in all three Shox Zones in
    a given circuit with a given vehicle IN THE SAME RACE.
    
    Initially, only the Compact Championship is available.  The
    player can choose from amongst the six cars in this
    championship for the initial car:
    
       Citroen Saxo Super 1600
       Ford Escort RS1800 MKII
       Ford Racing Puma
       Mini Cooper S
       Peugeot 106 GTI 2000
       Porsche 911 SC Safari
    
    Once a car has been chosen, only one race is initially
    available: the first Arid race.  There are three environments
    in Shox, each filled with numerous circuit configurations:
    Arid, Jungle, and Ice.  Since there is no place to simply
    test a car, the player is forced to go to the first Arid
    circuit and perform as well as possible.  The player must
    place at or above a certain position (fifth place for the
    Compact championship) in order to unlock the next event in
    that championship. 
    
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    SHOX ZONES
    Each circuit has three Shox Zones.  Each serves three
    purposes.  The main purpose of a Shox Zone is to provide the
    player with an incentive to perform EXTREMELY well in that
    section of the circuit, to reach the end gate of that Shox
    Zone as quickly as possible to gain Gold status for that Shox
    Zone and to amass even more bonus cash (the amount of bonus
    cash obtained depends upon the time taken to reach the end
    gate of the Shox Zone).  Except for the third purpose
    (below), the best status attained in a given Shox Zone is
    permanent on the player's record.
    
    The second purpose of a Shox Zone is to provide the player
    with an incentive to catch up to and ride the Shox Wave.  In
    a single race, once Gold status has been attained in all
    three Shox Zones AND the player must pass through at least
    one more Shox Zone before the end of the race, the message
    'Shox Wave Imminent' appears at the center of the screen.  At
    the start gate for the next Shox Zone, a 'bubbly' wave
    appears and shoots off down the circuit.  If the player can
    catch up to the Shox Wave before it reaches the next Shox
    Zone gate, then the player will gain a speed boost AND amass
    even more cash.  Each time the Shox Wave reaches either a
    start gate or an end gate for a Shox Zone, however, the Shox
    Wave will disappear if the player has not ridden the Shox
    Wave since the previous gate; otherwise, the Shox Wave will
    shoot off down the circuit again, and the player must once
    again catch up to it as quickly as possible in order to gain
    more speed and more cash.  Note that Shox Zones do not offer
    money while a Shox Wave is active.
    
    The final purpose of a Shox Zone is to attain a platinum car.
    There are six cars available in each championship, and each
    championship is comprised of six races.  Each race has a
    platinum car requirement associated with it, meaning that if
    a player can use the stated car to gain Gold status at ALL
    THREE Shox Zones IN THE SAME RACE at that circuit, then the
    player will win a platinum car (one of the 'regular' cars for
    that championship, only painted a shiny obsidian black and
    with better stats in Steering, Speed, and Stability).
    Fortunately, it is possible to win a platinum car in the
    first attempt at a circuit; even though there are other
    things which can be unlocked at the circuit, they can occur
    either in order or simultaneously.
    
    The Shox Zones certainly give a significant, fun, and
    challenging twist to the circuits in the game.  The trick to
    obtaining Gold status in each Shox Zone is to use as little
    steering as possible in each Shox Zone, as steering
    inevitably means shedding the speed which is required to
    blast through each Shox Zone as quickly as possible.
    
    It is generally possible to obtain Bronze status at each Shox
    Zone without any difficulty, even if encumbered by traffic.
    Obtaining Silver is also fairly simply at most Shox Zones, so
    long as there is little or no traffic in the player's
    immediate area.  Gaining Gold status, however, often requires
    pristine knowledge of a circuit as well as being either so
    far in front of the competition or so far behind that other
    cars will not be a hindrance.
    
    ==============================================
    
    ATTAINING CARS
    The player's first car is free.  Afterwards, each vehicle
    must either be purchased outright, 'won' via gambling, or won
    as a platinum car. 
    
    Purchasing a vehicle outright is definitely the most
    expensive method of obtaining a car.  This is also the method
    which requires the most amount of time, as several race wins
    will be required to purchase even the cheapest of vehicles
    outright.  However, there is thus none of the risk assumed
    with the gambling method, and none of the potential
    frustration of either the gambling or 'platinum' methods.
    
    Gambling is a great way to obtain the regular version of a
    vehicle at low cost.  Here, the player must shell out a given
    amount of money, which is significantly lower than the amount
    of money spent to buy the same vehicle outright.  Then, the
    player must win in a head-to-head competition with a rival in
    an identical vehicle; however, the rival gets a head start!!!
    The only true problem with this system is that these head-to-
    head competitions are on short segments of the circuits, and
    with the rival permitted a head start, the odds are
    definitely stacked against the player in these head-to-head
    competitions.  Should the player win against the rival, the
    player gets the chosen vehicle, and it is added to the
    garage; should the player lose, however, the money spent is
    permanently lost, although the amount of money required to
    gamble for that vehicle again is reduced significantly
    (generally by half the previous gamble amount).  Fortunately,
    before entering the gambling option and before actually
    competing for a car in this manner, the CPU prompts the
    player if this is indeed how the player wishes to proceed.
    
    The final method of gaining a vehicle is via the 'platinum'
    method.  There are six cars available in each championship,
    and each championship is comprised of six races.  Each race
    has a platinum car requirement associated with it, meaning
    that if a player can use the stated car to gain Gold status
    at ALL THREE Shox Zones IN THE SAME RACE at that circuit,
    then the player will win a platinum car (one of the 'regular'
    cars for that championship, only painted a shiny obsidian
    black and with better stats in Steering, Speed, and
    Stability).  Fortunately, it is possible to win a platinum
    car in the first attempt at a circuit; even though there are
    other things which can be unlocked at the circuit, they can
    occur either in order or simultaneously.
    
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    TAKING ON THE CHAMPION (SHOX CHAMPIONSHIP)
    Once the Compact Championship, Sports Championship, Turbo
    Championship, and Power Championship have all been won, the
    player can then take on the Champion - the cocky guy in the
    silver car issuing taunts throughout the game thus far.  This
    is the Shox Championship.
    
    Here, the player must win in four full-lap head-to-head
    competitions.  As with gambling for cars, the champion gets a
    head start before the player is permitted to get underway.
    Also, there are NO Shox Zones as well as NO money available
    to be made in the Shox Championship.
    
    In these head-to-head events, the player can choose from any
    of the vehicles obtained in the Power Championship, including
    any platinum vehicles won in the Power Championship.
    However, there are 'entry requirements' to unlock the four
    stages of the Shox Championship:
    
       Stage 1 (Arid Attack):  Obtain at least two of the eleven
                               available platinum cars
       Stage 2 (Jungle Fever): Obtain at least four of the eleven
                               available platinum cars
       Stage 3 (Snow Sortie):  Obtain at least six of the eleven
                               available platinum cars
       Stage 4 (Snow Sequel):  Obtain at least eight of the
                               eleven available platinum cars
    
    Once all four stages have been won, the player receives the
    crown of Shox Champion and is shown one final cutscene with
    the (now-former) champion.
    
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    VEHICLE LIST
    These are the normal vehicles available in Shox.  Note that
    each vehicle can only be used within the championship series
    to which it is assigned.
    
    Compact Championship           Sports Championship
       Citroen Saxo Super 1600        Ford Escort RS Cosworth
       Ford Escort RS1800 MKII        Lancia Delta Integrale
       Ford Racing Puma               Lancia Stratos
       Mini Cooper S                  Peugeot 306 Maxi 1996
       Peugeot 106 GTI 2000           Porsche Cayenne Turbo
       Porsche 911 SC Safari          Toyota Celica GT4 ST205
    
    Turbo Championship             Power Championship
       Mitsubishi Lancer Evo 6        Audi Quattro E2
       Mitsubishi Lancer Evo 7        Ford RS200
       Peugeot 206 Racing 1999        Lancia Rallye 037
       Porsche 911 Paris-Dakar        MG Metro 6R4
       Subaru Impreza 2000            Peugeot 206 T16 GRB
       Subaru Impreza 2002            Porsche 959 Paris-Dakar
    
    ==============================================
    
    GENERAL TIPS
    Buy or rent or borrow any game in the Gran Turismo series,
    but especially Gran Turismo 2 or 3.  In one of these games,
    work through the License Tests, as this will teach how to
    approach the various elements of racing, from judging braking
    distances to controlling a car on a surface with little grip.
    Gran Turismo 2 introduced rally racing to the series, so GT2
    and GT3 both include a Rally License; the time and effort
    spent in acquiring the Rally License in GT2 or GT3 will help
    with World Rally Challenge.  Overall, Gran Turismo 2 is
    probably a better choice of the three games in the Gran
    Turismo series, as GT2 includes the Pikes Peak Hill Climb and
    Pikes Peak Downhill courses, the only point-to-point rally
    venues in the series thus far (all other rally events are
    held at actual circuits); unfortunately, both Pikes Peak
    stages were removed for Gran Turismo 3 :-(
    
    In rally racing, the principles of standard pavement-based
    racing apply.  However, there is generally less tire grip in
    rally racing, which makes anticipation a key element in
    correctly holding a tight racing line at the apex of a
    corner, in judging braking distances on a steep downhill
    grade, etc.  
    
    To the extent possible, ALWAYS brake in a straight line.  If
    braking only occurs when cornering, the car will likely be
    carrying too much speed for the corner, resulting in the car
    sliding, spinning, and/or flipping.  (While a car may not
    necessarily flip in this situation, a slide or spin can still
    mean the difference between winning and ending up in last
    position at the end of a race.)
    
    The player will not be able to move on to the next
    championship until a win average of First Place has been
    attained among the six races of the current championship.  At
    a very minimum, this means Second Place in two races and
    First Place in four races.
    
    As the player progresses through the championships, the
    circuits are longer and longer, and the competitors become
    more and more aggressive.  Only flawless circuit knowledge
    combined with pristine vehicle handling skills will help the
    player to win races, and the player will also be forced to
    use 'dirty tactics' in order to win in the later
    championships.  
    
    At most circuits, crucial corners are placed either in or
    just beyond the landing zones of major jumps.  There are two
    tactics for approaching these crucial areas of the circuits.
    On one hand, it can be useful to slam on the brakes just
    before the vehicle launches off a jump, thus minimizing the
    time spent airborne (and the abuse of the vehicle's shocks
    and suspension) and maximizing the time the wheels actually
    contact the ground... which is obviously the only time a
    vehicle can possibly accelerate or (properly) turn.  On the
    other hand, the player can begin turning in the direction of
    the upcoming corner JUST BEFORE the vehicle launches off the
    jump, so that the vehicle's momentum will continue 'turning'
    the vehicle in mid-air.  This latter tactic has the result of
    the vehicle inherently sliding once contact has been regained
    with the ground, but at least the vehicle will already be
    pointed in the right direction, which does take some of the
    strain off the player in this situation (especially in the
    latter championships, where the competition is EXTREMELY
    fierce!!!!!).  Both of the tactics presented here take on
    even more importance when a jump's landing zone includes a
    change in terrain type, such as from sand (which is
    relatively slippery) to asphalt (which provides relatively-
    excellent tire grip).
    
    One nice tactic is to sweep through a championship as quickly
    as possible, attaining at least the minimum placing in each
    race to unlock the next event.  Once all six events in a
    championship have been made available, the player can then
    choose to purchase outright or gamble for a car (provided the
    player has enough money on hand) and begin the process of
    attaining Gold status in the three Shox Zones of the event
    which is linked with the chosen car for platinum purposes.
    Then, if the player has yet to achieve Gold status at the
    Shox Zones of the other five events in the championship, the
    platinum car the player has just won can be used for that
    purpose.  
    
    On the other hand, if at all possible, the player should work
    toward obtaining a platinum vehicle early in a championship
    quest.  The bonus vehicle will then have generally better
    stats (Steering, Speed, and Stability) than the other cars in
    a race, and it should then be easier to rush through the
    remaining events in the championship with little effort, and
    likely without a need to rerace an event to unlock the next
    event in the championship.
    
    Initially, races are only held during daylight hours.  To
    race at a circuit at night, the player must obtain Gold
    status at all three Shox Zones for a circuit (not necessarily
    in a single race).  Once this has been accomplished, pressing
    the Square button on the Race Select screen will permit the
    player to toggle between daytime and nighttime racing.
    Racing at nighttime has the advantage of being able to use
    the bright beams from the competitors' headlights to know
    where and how close they are behind the player without the
    risk of quickly switching to and from the rear view and
    potentially losing track of where the player's vehicle is
    located on the circuit.  Nighttime racing also brings out a
    different set of sounds (such as the sounds of crickets
    chirping in the Jungle settings), which can provide a nice
    change of pace in the aural backdrop of the race.
    
    While vehicles become available to be obtained gambling as
    soon as the player's bank account has the minimum funds
    required to obtain them (via gambling), it is best to wait
    until the player has about 1.75 times the amount of money
    required to gamble for the chosen vehicle.  This is because
    it is often difficult to win a particular car the first time
    via gambling (especially if the head-to-head race takes place
    in an Ice environment).  Using the '1.75x Rule,' the player
    can then immediately try several other times, while the
    layout of the (all-too-brief) circuit/segment is still fresh
    in the player's mind.
    
    There is SO much which can possibly be unlocked in each race
    that it is highly tempting to try one's hardest to obtain all
    of them at once at each circuit (which is indeed possible).
    This is not so difficult in the Compact challenge, but in the
    later challenges, this is virtually impossible.  It is best,
    therefore, for the player to set a SINGLE goal per race, and
    to try to accomplish ONLY that single goal; to attempt to
    accomplish more than that SINGLE goal per event is quite
    likely to cause the player to try too hard, which is when the
    player will be most likely to make mistakes (such as using an
    even later braking zone than usual and then sliding too far
    out into a corner, thus losing valuable time and one or more
    race positions).  
    
    Of the three environments (Arid, Jungle, and Ice), Ice is
    definitely the most difficult.  While sand (Arid) and mud
    (Jungle) can be rather 'slippery' due to the lack of traction
    with the tires, ice (Ice) is much more prone to excessive
    wheelspin, and vehicles also will tend to slide much further
    than on sand or mud.  This makes the anticipation of corners
    and 'early' cornering MUCH more important in an Ice
    environment than in an Arid or Jungle environment.
    
    Damage is subtracted from a player's earnings ONLY when the
    player has money (i.e., the player has yet to obtain at least
    Bronze status in the initial Shox Zone(s), or is
    participating in a head-to-head competition).  With this in
    mind, the player is thus 'free' to incur as much damage as
    desired when the damage monetary penalty is not in effect.
    However, any vehicle damage may indeed cause handling
    problems, depending on the type and the severity of the
    damage incurred during a race.
    
    ==============================================
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    SHOX ZONES
    Except in the Shox Championship and in gambling for vehicles,
    all races in Shox include three Shox Zones.  This section is
    designed to give an overview of each of the Shox Zones in the
    game, to help to provide players with some 'advance warning'
    so that they may hopefully advance through the Shox Zones
    (and the game in general) a little faster.
    
    Compact Championship
       Race 1: Arid
          Shox Zone 1: The game's initial Shox Zone occurs on a
                       long, gentle, uphill run with a few gentle
                       corners.  The Shox Zone ends just before
                       the crest of this hill.
          Shox Zone 2: This next Shox Zone begins immediately
                       before a tunnel, meaning a transition from
                       sand outside the tunnel to asphalt inside
                       the tunnel.  Immediately on the other side
                       of the tunnel, the terrain returns to sand
                       and the circuit makes a sharp right turn
                       toward the end gate for this Shox Zone.
          Shox Zone 3: Shox Zone 3 begins at the crest of a hill
                       and ends just beyond the crest of the next
                       hill.
       Race 2: Jungle
          Shox Zone 1: This opening Shox Zone is located in a
                       sandy S-curve section.  (Actually, the
                       S-curves are more along the lines of
                       lengthy hairpin corners.)  The circuit in
                       this section is rather wide, and water
                       creeps along much of its length at one or
                       both edges.
          Shox Zone 2: This is essentially the same as the first
                       Shox Zone, but transitioning to mud and
                       re-entering the jungle about halfway
                       through the Shox Zone.
          Shox Zone 3: There are several corners in this final
                       Shox Zone, but the terrain changes from
                       mud to poor asphalt shortly after this
                       Shox Zone begins.
       Race 3: Ice
          Shox Zone 1: Beginning on snow, this initial Shox Zone
                       makes a gentle left-hand turn, then is
                       quickly followed by a nasty right-hand
                       corner leading onto ice.
          Shox Zone 2: This second Shox Zone begins immediately
                       before a NASTY right-hand corner with a
                       rapidly-decreasing radius.
          Shox Zone 3: Transitioning from snow to ice, this is a
                       somewhat-lengthy Shox Zone with two
                       perpendicular corners which can be taken
                       at full acceleration with the proper
                       'early' cornering.
       Race 4: Arid
          Shox Zone 1: This Shox Zone begins on sand immediately
                       before a tight right-hand hairpin corner.
                       Immediately afterward, the terrain
                       transitions to asphalt and makes a nasty
                       left-hand hairpin turn - but at least the
                       asphalt provides superior grip compared to
                       the sand.
          Shox Zone 2: Entirely composed of sand, this second
                       Shox Zone is comprised essentially of two
                       wide (in both length and width) hairpin
                       corners nestled between the mountain
                       cliffs.
          Shox Zone 3: This is essentially the same configuration
                       as the previous Shox Zone, but more
                       attention must be given to the edges of
                       the circuit, which protrude inward at a
                       few key locations.
       Race 5: Jungle
          Shox Zone 1: Comprised of mud, this Shox Zone has
                       several lengthy corners and a tunnel.
          Shox Zone 2: Beginning before the beautiful, LOUD
                       waterfall, this Shox Zone is all-mud and
                       again features lengthy, gentle corners.
          Shox Zone 3: This final Shox Zone primarily consists of
                       tunnels, and transitions from asphalt to
                       sand within the tunnels.
       Race 6: Ice
          Shox Zone 1: This Shox Zone consists of two right-hand
                       right-angle corners on ice.
          Shox Zone 2: The second Shox Zone begins just before a
                       tight right-hand corner on snow, then
                       leads into an asphalt-paved tunnel.
          Shox Zone 3: This final Shox Zone of the Compact
                       Championship begins on an icy bridge which
                       curves gently to the left.  Once off the
                       bridge, the circuit turns gently to the
                       left as the terrain transitions back to
                       snow.
    
    Sports Championship
       Race 1: Arid
          Shox Zone 1: This initial Shox Zone of the Sports
                       Championship begins immediately at the
                       exit of a NASTY right-hand right-angle
                       corner, coinciding with a transition from
                       sand to asphalt at the entrance to a
                       tunnel.  At the end of the tunnel, things
                       get much more challenging, however, as
                       there is a moderate rise in elevation,
                       crested by a right-hand J-turn with a
                       steep descent opening into a much-gentler
                       left-hand full-throttle corner.
          Shox Zone 2: This is a twisty all-sand S-curve section.
          Shox Zone 3: This final Shox Zone begins at the
                       transition from sand to asphalt.  The
                       circuit snakes precariously between the
                       mountain cliffs.
       Race 2: Jungle
          Shox Zone 1: All-mud, this is a lengthy section of
                       semi-gentle S-curves.
          Shox Zone 2: This is similar to the previous Shox Zone,
                       but containing more and somewhat-sharper
                       corners.
          Shox Zone 3: All-mud with the exception of a brief
                       wooden bridge, this is the shortest of the
                       three Shox Zones in this race.  There is
                       only one corner, a right-hand decreasing-
                       radius corner leading uphill to the
                       aforementioned bridge.
       Race 3: Ice
          Shox Zone 1: This first Shox Zone begins at the very
                       end of the overglorified bobsled course,
                       at the transition from ice to snow.
                       Almost immediately, the circuit contains a
                       left-hand right-angle corner, after which
                       the terrain transitions back to ice.
          Shox Zone 2: This middle Shox Zone begins at the
                       transition from ice back to snow, just
                       before a left-hand right-angle corner.
                       Shortly afterward, the circuit transitions
                       to asphalt as it enters a tunnel.  This
                       Shox Zone ends just beyond the end of the
                       tunnel, just beyond the transition from
                       asphalt back to snow.
          Shox Zone 3: Beginning on a gentle uphill slope covered
                       with ice thinly layered with snow, the
                       circuit contains a NASTY left-hand J-turn
                       leading up a VERY steep icy slope which is
                       again thinly layered with snow.  The
                       J-turn has a WIDE recovery area which is
                       largely filled with snow.  The best
                       approach to this NASTY Shox Zone (one of
                       worst in the entire game) is to brake VERY
                       early and turn sharply, cutting to the
                       inside of any other vehicles which might
                       be present; in fact, this tactic will
                       provide some resistance to the vehicle's
                       inherent tendency to slide toward the
                       outside of the corner.
       Race 4: Arid
          Shox Zone 1: This all-sand Shox Zone is essentially a
                       pair of very wide (in length and in width)
                       hairpin corners.
          Shox Zone 2: This all-asphalt Shox Zone snakes between
                       the mountain cliffs.  Straightlining as
                       many corners as possible will shave off
                       valuable time here.
          Shox Zone 3: This is a lengthy Shox Zone with numerous
                       corners.  The circuit here is comprised
                       entirely of sand.
       Race 5: Jungle
          Shox Zone 1: Beginning on mud, this initial Shox Zone
                       heads into a tunnel, which is lined with
                       asphalt.  The asphalt remains on exiting
                       the tunnel, but there is a NASTY right-
                       hand J-turn requiring SEVERE braking.
                       The circuit then turns gently back to the
                       left, transitioning back to mud about
                       halfway along the corner.
          Shox Zone 2: Back on the wide twisting sandy road
                       along the shore, this Shox Zone comprises
                       several long hairpin corners and water at
                       the edges of the circuit.
          Shox Zone 3: This final Shox Zone begins as the circuit
                       leaves the water area, but the landing
                       zone for the jump sports a NASTY right-
                       hand J-turn with NO room for error on
                       a poor-asphalt roadway.  The terrain
                       transitions back to mud before this Shox
                       Zone comes to an end.
       Race 6: Ice
          Shox Zone 1: This opening Shox Zone begins on snow,
                       then transitions to ice shortly before a
                       right-hand near-perpendicular corner.  The
                       Shox Zone comes to an end immediately at
                       the exit of a left-hand right-angle
                       corner.
          Shox Zone 2: Beginning on snow immediately before a
                       bridge curving to the right, the terrain
                       quickly transitions to ice for the bridge,
                       then transitions back to snow on the other
                       side of the bridge as the circuit turns
                       semi-gently back to the left.
          Shox Zone 3: Beginning immediately before a left-hand
                       right-angle corner, the circuit
                       transitions from snow to asphalt as it
                       enters a tunnel.  On the other side of the
                       tunnel, the terrain returns to snow, then
                       transitions to ice again following a
                       right-hand right-angle corner.
    
    Turbo Championship
       Race 1: Arid
          Shox Zone 1: This Shox Zone is seemingly all-corners
                       with a major crest about one-third of the
                       way through this section of the circuit.
          Shox Zone 2: This is a moderately-lengthy Shox Zone
                       with several corners.  At the entry to the
                       final corner of this Shox Zone, the
                       left-side barrier can be a problem, as it
                       is positioned so that it is possible to
                       ram into its front end, thus bringing the
                       player's vehicle to a complete standstill
                       or perhaps causing a spin or a flip.
          Shox Zone 3: The first one-fifth of this Shox Zone is
                       on asphalt, while the rest is run on dirt.
                       There are numerous corners here, many of
                       them rather tight.
       Race 2: Jungle
          Shox Zone 1: Beginning on mud (except for a brief
                       wooden bridge), the circuit soon heads out
                       onto the white sand encountered in the
                       previous challenges.
          Shox Zone 2: The first half of this Shox Zone is run on
                       white sand, similar to that used in the
                       beach area.  The second half of this Shox
                       Zone is then conducted in asphalt (which
                       includes a tunnel), but transitions back
                       to mud immediately before the end gate of
                       this Shox Zone.
          Shox Zone 3: Beginning near the waterfall, this all-mud
                       Shox Zone has several jumps and quite a
                       few semi-gentle corners.
       Race 3: Ice
          Shox Zone 1: This Shox Zone begins on snow, then
                       quickly transitions to ice.  It is
                       important to brake before cresting the
                       icy hill, as the landing zone is in the
                       middle of a left-hand right-angle ice-
                       covered corner; failure to brake properly
                       will result in the vehicle sliding across
                       the ice and into a barrier.  Shortly after
                       this corner, the terrain transitions first
                       to snow, then to ice with a thin layer of
                       snow upon it.
          Shox Zone 2: This Shox Zone coincides with the
                       overglorified bobsled course.
          Shox Zone 3: This final Shox Zone begins in a snowy
                       section with several significant jumps.
                       Following a gentle right-hand corner is a
                       transition to ice, followed immediately by
                       the first of three left-hand right-angle
                       corners.
       Race 4: Arid
          Shox Zone 1: This S-curve section begins on dirt, and
                       transitions to asphalt for the final third
                       of this Shox Zone.
          Shox Zone 2: This Shox Zone begins on asphalt, and
                       transitions to dirt halfway between the
                       tight consecutive hairpin corners.
          Shox Zone 3: Beginning with several wide corners on
                       dirt, the circuit transitions to asphalt
                       and enters a tunnel.  On the other side is
                       the NASTY J-turn from Race 1 of the Sports
                       Championship.
       Race 5: Jungle
          Shox Zone 1: All-mud, this Shox Zone features lengthy
                       semi-gentle corners and a few jumps.
          Shox Zone 2: Again on mud, this Shox Zone begins
                       immediately before a nasty left-hand
                       J-turn.  A jump leads onto a wooden
                       bridge, with the end gate to this Shox
                       Zone shortly beyond its end.
          Shox Zone 3: This is similar to Shox Zone 2 of Race 2
                       of the Turbo Championship.
       Race 6: Ice
          Shox Zone 1: This Shox Zone has several semi-tight
                       corners.  Except the final few meters (run
                       on snow), the terrain here is entirely
                       ice thinly layered with snow.
          Shox Zone 2: Beginning with a pair of jumps on snow,
                       the terrain transitions to ice immediately
                       before a left-hand right-angle corner.
                       Shortly after the right-hand right-angle
                       corner, the terrain transitions back to
                       snow.
          Shox Zone 3: The final Shox Zone of Turbo Championship
                       coincides with the overglorified bobsled
                       course.
    
    Power Championship
       Race 1: Arid
          Shox Zone 1: This opening Shox Zone begins with a steep
                       uphill climb on a right-hand turn,
                       followed by a steep descent into a
                       left-hand turn whose exit leads up a
                       semi-steep climb.  The rest of this Shox
                       Zone is a long, gentle downhill run with
                       several corners, some of which can be
                       moderately straightlined to save time.
          Shox Zone 2: Beginning on dirt, this Shox Zone runs
                       through the now-famous double-hairpin
                       section, transitioning to asphalt between
                       the hairpin turns.  The circuit winds
                       through the mountain cliffs.
          Shox Zone 3: Beginning on asphalt, this final Shox Zone
                       winds past the waterfall between the
                       mountain cliffs, then transitions to
                       dirt.  The circuit continues winding
                       between the mountain cliffs with a few
                       hills thrown in.
       Race 2: Jungle
          Shox Zone 1: Beginning at the transition from wooden
                       bridge to mud, this Shox Zone quickly
                       moves to the winding white sand beach area
                       encountered in previous Jungle circuits.
          Shox Zone 2: Except for a wooden bridge, the entire
                       Shox Zone is mud.  The Shox Zone comes to
                       an end immediately at the exit of a NASTY
                       and NARROW right-hand right-angle corner.
          Shox Zone 3: This all-mud Shox Zone is a number of
                       semi-gentle corners with a few hills and
                       minor jumps.
       Race 3: Ice
          Shox Zone 1: This initial Shox Zone begins on snow in
                       the VERY brief straightaway between the
                       overglorified bobsled course and a right-
                       hand right-angle corner.  The rest of this
                       Shox Zone is comprised of gentle corners.
          Shox Zone 2: Beginning on ice, this second Shox Zone
                       quickly transitions to snow, with a semi-
                       significant jump about halfway through
                       this Shox Zone.  The final third
                       transitions to ice for the bridge, then
                       back to snow just before the end gate.
          Shox Zone 3: After a VERY brief snow section, the
                       terrain transitions to ice, with a left-
                       hand right-angle corner following a minor
                       jump.  The Shox Zone ends shortly after
                       transitioning back to snow.
       Race 4: Arid
          Shox Zone 1: This Shox Zone is mostly sand, but ends on
                       asphalt.  The circuit here winds between
                       the tall mountain cliffs.
          Shox Zone 2: The second Shox Zone begins on dirt and
                       has two significant jumps, the landing
                       zone for the second jump being asphalt in
                       a right-hand turn.  The asphalt continues
                       for the rest of the Shox Zone as the
                       circuit snakes around.
          Shox Zone 3: Entirely dirt, this final Shox Zone has a
                       few hills and A LOT of twists and turns.
       Race 5: Jungle
          Shox Zone 1: Entirely mud except for a wooden bridge,
                       this Shox Zone has several jumps and A LOT
                       of high-speed turns.
          Shox Zone 2: Beginning at the transition from wooden
                       bridge to mud, this Shox Zone quickly
                       moves to the winding white sand beach area
                       encountered in previous Jungle circuits.
          Shox Zone 3: Beginning on the beach, this final Shox
                       Zone heads back into the jungle and
                       ends after a narrow and difficult left-
                       hand right-angle corner.
       Race 6: Ice
          Shox Zone 1: Beginning with ice thinly layered with
                       snow, this Shox Zone transitions later to
                       snow and then to pure ice.  There are
                       several corners, including a tricky
                       right-hand right-angle corner.
          Shox Zone 2: The middle half of this Shox Zone is snow,
                       with the opening and final fourths icy.
                       There are numerous corners, several rather
                       tricky.
          Shox Zone 3: The game's final Shox Zone begins on snow,
                       then makes a sharp left-hand turn into the
                       overglorified bobsled course.
    
    ==============================================
    ==============================================
    ==============================================
    
    RACING TIPS: BRAKING
    The first step in driving fast is knowing when, where, and
    how much to slow down (braking).  In some games, a brake
    controller can be acquired or purchased, allowing the player
    to customize the brake strength by axle or by adjusting the
    bias of the brakes toward the front or the rear of the car;
    in other games, this is part of the 'stock' feature of the
    cars.  
    
    The use of a brake controller will affect the braking zone,
    as will other factors.  Specifically, the car's speed on
    approaching a corner, the amount of fuel in the car at a
    given moment, the drivetrain of the car, the weight of the
    car, and even the car's center of gravity can all affect the
    braking zone.  Similarly, the driving conditions - sunny,
    overcast, damp, wet, icy, snowy etc. - will affect the
    braking zone for each corner (as well as the car's ability to
    attain high speeds).
    
    Except for purely arcade-style games, the braking zone will
    differ somewhat for each car depending upon its strengths and
    weaknesses.  It certainly helps for the player to try a Free
    Run or a Time Trial (if these modes exist in a given game) to
    learn the circuit(s) - including the braking zones.
    
    When looking for braking zones, try to find a particular
    stationary object near the entry of each corner; it helps
    tremendously if this object is far enough away from the
    circuit that it will not be knocked over during a race.  To
    begin, try using the brakes when the front of the car is
    parallel with the chosen stationary object.  If this does not
    slow the car enough before corner entry or if the car slows
    too much before reaching the corner, pick another stationary
    object on the following lap and try again.
    
    Whenever changes are made to the car - whether to the brake
    controller or to other aspects of tuning and/or parts - it
    would be a good idea to go back into Free Run mode and check
    that the braking zones still hold; if not, adjust as
    necessary using the method in the paragraph above.
    
    For those races which include fuel loads, the car will become
    progressively lighter during a race.  The lesser weight can
    often mean a slightly shorter braking zone; however, if tire
    wear is excessive (especially if there have been numerous
    off-course excursions), that might dictate a longer braking
    zone.  
    
    Cars with a higher horsepower output will inherently attain
    faster speeds, and will therefore require a longer braking
    zone than cars with a lower horsepower output.  Try a
    Volkswagon New Beetle, a Mini Cooper, a Dodge Viper, a Panoz
    Esperante GT-1, a Corvette C5R, and an F-2002 (all in
    stock/base configuration) along the same area of a circuit
    and note how their braking zones differ.
    
    A final note on braking: To the extent possible, ALWAYS brake
    in a straight line.  If braking only occurs when cornering,
    the car will likely be carrying too much speed for the
    corner, resulting in the car sliding, spinning, and/or
    flipping.  (Some games purposely do not permit the car to
    flip, but a slide or spin can still mean the difference
    between winning and ending up in last position at the end of
    a race.)  
    
    If nothing else, players should strive to become of the
    'breakers' they possibly can.  This will essentially force a
    player to become a better racer/driver in general once the
    player has overcome the urge to constantly run at top speed
    at all times with no regard for damages to self or others.
    Also, slowing the car appropriately will make other aspects
    of racing/driving easier, especially in J-turns, hairpin
    corners, and chicanes.
    
    ==============================================
    
    RACING TIPS: CORNERING
    Ideally, the best way to approach a corner is from the
    outside of the turn, braking well before entering the corner.
    At the apex (the midpoint of the corner), the car should be
    right up against the edge of the roadway.  On corner exit,
    the car drifts back to the outside of the roadway and speeds
    off down the straightaway.  So, for a right-hand turn of
    about ninety degrees, enter the corner from the left, come to
    the right to hit the apex, and drift back to the left on
    corner exit.  See the Diagrams section at the end of this
    guide for a sample standard corner.
    
    For corners that are less than ninety degrees, it may be
    possible to just barely tap the brakes - if at all - and be
    able to clear such corners successfully.  However, the same
    principles of cornering apply: approach from the outside of
    the turn, hit the apex, and drift back outside on corner
    exit.  
    
    For corners more than ninety degrees but well less than 180
    degrees, braking will certainly be required.  However, for
    these 'J-turns,' the apex of the corner is not the midpoint,
    but a point approximately two-thirds of the way around the
    corner.  J-turns require great familiarity to know when to
    begin diving toward the inside of the corner and when to
    power to the outside on corner exit.  See the Diagrams
    section at the end of this guide for a sample J-turn.
    
    Hairpin corners are turns of approximately 180 degrees.
    Braking is certainly required before corner entry, and the
    cornering process is the same as for standard corners:
    Approach from the outside, drift inside to hit the apex
    (located at halfway around the corner, or after turning
    ninety degrees), and drifting back to the outside on corner
    exit.  See the Diagrams section at the end of this guide for
    a sample hairpin corner.
    
    If there are two corners of approximately ninety degrees each
    AND both corners turn in the same direction AND there is only
    a VERY brief straightaway between the two corners, they may
    be able to be treated like an extended hairpin corner.
    Sometimes, however, these 'U-turns' have a straightaway
    between the corners that is just long enough to prohibit a
    hairpin-like treatment; in this case, drifting to the outside
    on exiting the first of the two corners will automatically
    set up the approach to the next turn.  See the Diagrams
    section at the end of this guide for a sample U-turn.
    
    FIA (the governing body of F1 racing, World Rally
    Championship, and other forms of international motorsport)
    seems to love chicanes.  One common type of chicane is
    essentially a 'quick-flick,' where the circuit quickly edges
    off in one direction then realigns itself in a path parallel
    to the original stretch of pavement, as in the examples in
    the Diagrams section at the end of this guide.  Here, the
    object is to approach the first corner from the outside, hit
    BOTH apexes, and drift to the outside of the second turn.
    There are chicanes of various types in rally racing, but they
    are not necessarily considered as such because the
    competitors tend to think corner-by-corner, and not complex-
    by-complex like circuit-based competitors.
    
    FIA also seems to like the 'Bus Stop' chicane, which is
    essentially just a pair of quick-flicks, with the second
    forming the mirror image of the first, as shown in the
    Diagrams section at the end of this guide.  Perhaps the most
    famous Bus Stop chicane is the chicane (which is actually
    called the ŒBus Stop Chicane¹) at Pit Entry at Spa-
    Francorchamps, the home of the annual Grand Prix of Belgium
    (F1 racing) and the host of The 24 Hours of Spa (for
    endurance racing). 
    
    Virtually every other type of corner or corner combination
    encountered in racing (primarily in road racing) combines
    elements of the corners presented above.  These complex
    corners and chicanes can be challenging, such as the Ascari
    chicane at Monza.  See the Diagrams section for an idea of
    the formation of Ascari.
    
    However, in illegal street/highway racing, the positioning of
    traffic can 'create' the various corners and corner
    combinations mentioned here.  For example, weaving in and out
    of traffic creates a virtual bus stop chicane (see the
    Diagrams section at the end of this guide).  Slowing may be
    necessary - it often is - depending on the distance between
    the vehicles.  See the Sample Circuit Using Some of the Above
    Corner Types Combines in the Diagrams section at the end of
    this guide; note that this is a diagram for a very technical
    circuit.  
    
    At some race venues, 'artificial chicanes' may be created by
    placing cones and/or (concrete) barriers in the middle of a
    straightaway.  One such game which used this type of chicane
    is the original Formula1 by Psygnosis, an F1-based
    PlayStation game from 1995, which used this at Circuit
    Gilles-Villeneuve along Casino Straight (shortly after
    passing the final grandstands at the exit of Casino Hairpin).
    
    One thing which can change the approach to cornering is the
    available vision.  Blind and semi-blind corners require
    ABSOLUTE knowledge of such corners.  Here is where gamers
    have an advantage over real-world drivers:  Gamers can
    (usually) change their viewpoint (camera position), which can
    sometimes provide a wider, clearer view of the stage, which
    can be especially important when approaching semi-blind
    corners; real-world drivers are obviously inhibited by the
    designs of their cars and racing helmets.  Great examples of
    real-world blind and semi-blind corners would be Mulsanne
    Hump at Le Mans, Turns 14 and 15 at Albert Park, each of the
    first three corners at A1-Ring, and many forest-based stages
    in rally racing.  
    
    Also important to cornering - especially with long, extended
    corners - is the corner¹s radius.  Most corners use an
    identical radius throughout their length.  However, some are
    increasing-radius corners or decreasing-radius corners.
    These corners may require shifting the apex point of a
    corner, and almost always result in a change of speed.
    Decreasing-radius corners are perhaps the trickiest, because
    the angle of the corner becomes sharper, thus generally
    requiring more braking as well as more turning of the
    steering wheel.  Increasing-radius corners are corners for
    which the angle becomes more and more gentle as the corner
    progresses; this means that drivers will generally accelerate
    more, harder, or faster, but such an extra burst of speed can
    backfire and require more braking.  See the Diagrams section
    at the end of this guide for sample images of a decreasing-
    radius corner and an increasing-radius corner.
    
    For traditional road racing circuits, increasing-radius and
    decreasing-radius corners may not be too much of a problem;
    after several laps around one of these circuits, a driver
    will know where the braking and acceleration points are as
    well as the shifted apex point (should a shift be required).
    However, for stage-based rally racing, where the roads are
    virtually unknown and the driver knows what is ahead only
    because of the navigator¹s instructions (which - based upon
    notes - may or may not be absolutely correct), the unknown
    can cause drivers to brake more often and/or more heavily.
    For rally-based games, such as the Need for Speed: V-Rally
    series (PlayStation/PSOne/PlayStation2) or for World Rally
    Championship (PlayStation2), there is often specialized
    vocabulary used: Œtightens¹ generally designates that a
    corner has a decreasing radius, whereas Œwidens¹ or Œopens¹
    indicates that a corner has an increasing radius.  This need
    for Œextra¹ braking is also tempered by the fact that in much
    of rally racing, corners are either blind or semi-blind, due
    to trees, buildings, cliffs, embankments, and other obstacles
    to clear vision all the way around a corner.
    
    One particularly interesting aspect of cornering is one which
    I honestly do not know if it works in reality (I am not a
    real-world racer, although I would certainly LOVE the chance
    to attend a racing school!!!), but which works in numerous
    racing/driving games I have played over the years.  This
    aspect is to use the accelerator to help with quickly and
    safely navigating sharp corners.  This works by first BRAKING
    AS USUAL IN ADVANCE OF THE CORNER, then - once in the corner
    itself - rapidly pumping the brakes for the duration of the
    corner (or at least until well past the apex of the corner).
    The action of rapidly pumping the accelerator appears to
    cause the drive wheels to catch the pavement just enough to
    help stop or slow a sliding car, causing the non-drive wheels
    to continue slipping and the entire car to turn just a little
    faster.  Using this rapid-pumping technique with the
    accelerator does take a little practice initially, and seems
    to work best with FR cars; however, once perfected, this
    technique can pay dividends, especially with REALLY sharp
    hairpin corners, such as at Sebring International Raceway or
    those often found in rally racing.
    
    ==============================================
    
    RACING TIPS: COASTING
    Some players may believe that a good racer is ALWAYS either
    accelerating or braking.  However, this is not always the
    best way to approach a given section of a circuit or rally
    stage.  Coasting can sometimes be beneficial.
    
    First, consider standard street or highway driving.  Street-
    legal cars are designed for the same foot to be used for both
    acceleration and braking (with the other foot used for
    operating the clutch if the vehicle uses a manual
    transmission).  There is always a slight delay between
    acceleration and braking as the driver moves the foot from
    one pedal to the other; during this time, the vehicle is
    essentially coasting - that is, the vehicle's current
    momentum is the only thing moving the vehicle.
    
    In real-world racing, there are a number of drivers who use
    'left-foot braking.'  In other words, one foot is used for
    the accelerator, while the other foot is used for the brake
    pedal.  Yet even in left-foot braking, a driver must take
    care to NOT be pressing both the accelerator pedal AND the
    brake pedal simultaneously, as this could cause the engine
    revs to spike and/or cause undue tire wear.  Therefore, even
    though for a much shorter duration (perhaps best measured in
    hundredths of a second) than in standard 'right-foot
    braking,' there is always a short period of coasting.
    
    In many racing games, I find that coasting through tight
    corners (including tight chicanes) can sometimes be the best
    method to safely navigate these difficult sections - and this
    is true in both pavement-based games and in rally-based
    games.  Certainly, braking properly (i.e., in a straight line
    BEFORE reaching the corner or chicane) is key to successfully
    coasting.  However, using NEITHER the accelerator button NOR
    the brake button will cause the vehicle to coast, thus using
    the natural momentum of the vehicle to perhaps swing the
    vehicle around the corner or through the chicane.
    
    This is actually somewhat tricky to explain in words, and is
    really something that each player should try several times
    (especially on tight, technical circuits, such as Monaco and
    Bathurst, or virtually any stage of a rally-based game) to
    truly understand this technique.  Once learned, however,
    players may easily find themselves adding this technique to
    their gaming repertoire :-)
    
    ==============================================
    
    RACING TIPS: WEIGHT SHIFTS
    Modern racing games are especially adept at simulating a
    vehicle's weight shift in a variety of situations.  This
    section assumes that a vehicle is moving in a forward
    direction.  
    
    When cornering, a vehicle's weight shift is to the opposite
    direction; in other words, if a vehicle is turning to the
    left, its weight will be shifted to the right (and vice
    versa).  If the player attempts to corner too quickly, the
    resultant weight shift risks to slide the vehicle toward the
    outside of the turn; in extreme cases, the vehicle could lift
    and have only TWO wheels actually touching the ground, or
    potentially the vehicle could even flip onto its side or its
    roof!!!  While it is certainly fun to see a vehicle on two
    wheels or on its side or roof, this is obviously counter-
    productive, especially in a close race or in a time trial
    mode.  Tires and downforce play a role in helping to keep the
    vehicle on the ground during cornering, but once a given
    speed is surpassed for the type, radius, and angle of the
    corner in question, the player will have limited - if any -
    control of the vehicle.
    
    During acceleration, the vehicle's weight will naturally
    shift toward the rear.  In most situations, this is not a
    particularly crucial phenomenon.  However, if the vehicle is
    moving fairly slowly and the player suddenly slams on the
    accelerator, or especially if a race has a standing start
    (such as F1, TOCA, and rally races), this weight shift should
    be crucial.  As the vehicle weight shifts to the rear of the
    vehicle, the rear suspension and tires could potentially take
    a lot of punishment.  This is especially important for the
    tires, as the extra weight will require an appropriate amount
    of 'extra' acceleration (especially if the vehicle uses rear-
    wheel drive, which is true of many racing vehicles) to
    compensate and get the wheels to turn enough for the tires to
    adequately grip the racing surface to help to propel the
    vehicle forward.  However, overcompensation could result in
    excessive wheelspin, which is quite likely to create undue
    tire wear.  
    
    While braking, a vehicle's weight will shift toward the front
    of the vehicle.  If the player brakes too late to corner
    safely yet still attempts to take the corner even semi-
    normally, the weight will load to the front outside wheel (in
    relation to the corner; i.e., to the front-left wheel if
    taking a right-hand corner) and risk causing the vehicle to
    slide off the course in the direction of the front-outside
    wheel.  Even if not attempting to corner, the weight shift to
    the front during braking requires a little extra care to
    ensure that the front wheels do not lock (in those games
    which support wheel-lock, such as Pro Race Driver).
    
    In rally racing especially, the trick to successfully
    navigating many of the tight corners on the various stages is
    to use the vehicle's natural weight shifts to help
    successfully clear each section of the stage.  This requires
    excellent knowledge of each rally car's capabilities and
    limitations, as well as superb anticipation and planning for
    each corner.  Obviously, since most rallies are held on
    point-to-point stages, there is only one chance to
    successfully navigate each twist in the raceway, and using a
    vehicle's natural weight shift is crucial to 'getting it
    right' the first (and only) time!!!
    
    ==============================================
    ==============================================
    ==============================================
    
    CONTACT INFORMATION
    For questions, rants, raves, comments of appreciation, etc.,
    or to be added to my e-mail list for updates to this driving
    guide, please contact me at: FEATHER7@IX.NETCOM.COM; also, if
    you have enjoyed this guide and feel that it has been helpful
    to you, I would certainly appreciate a small donation via
    PayPal (http://www.paypal.com/) using the above e-mail
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    To find the latest version of this and all my other
    PSX/PS2/DC/Mac game guides, visit FeatherGuides at
    http://feathersites.angelcities.com/
    
    ==============================================
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