FAQ/Strategy Guide by LCartwright

Version: 1.0 | Updated: 08/17/01 | Printable Version

||                                                    ||
||   F-Zero: Maximum Velocity for Game Boy Advance    ||
||   In depth FAQ/Walkthrough/Guide                   ||
||   Written by Leigh Cartwright                      ||
||   E-mail: wheels128@ignmail.com                    ||
||   Version 1.0 - 17th August 2001                   ||


This guideís content, including text, ASCII art and everything else
is copyright Leigh Cartwright (wheels128) 2001 onwards-.

The only official distribution points for this guide are:

And at my website,

You may not reproduce any part of this document without the prior
written permission of myself. This document is for personal use
only, and is not to be sold or used in a profit-making website,
magazine etc.

If you wish to use this guide, e-mail me and chances are I'll let you
use it.

Nintendo and F-Zero are registered trademarks of Nintendo Co. Ltd.



  1.1 Background Story
  1.2 Game Info

  2.1 Erasing game data
  2.2 Controls

  3.1 Grand Prix
  3.2 Training
  3.3 Multi-Pak Link
  3.4 Single-Pak Link
  3.5 Championship Mode
  3.6 Demo

  4.1 Basic Machine Overview
  4.2 Hot Violet
  4.3 Fireball
  4.4 J.B. Crystal
  4.5 Wind Walker
  4.6 Sly Joker
  4.7 The Stingray
  4.8 Silver Thunder
  4.9 Falcon Mk II
  4.10 Fighting Comet
  4.11 Jet Vermillion
  4.12 Which machine should you choose?

            Featuring course guides for all twenty courses
            plus the championship. More detail coming soon

  6.1 Pit Lanes
  6.2 Dash Plates
  6.3 Jump Plates
  6.4 Ice
  6.5 Dart Zones
  6.6 Land Mines
  6.7 Spin Markers
  6.8 Black Bombs
  6.9 Gravity Magnets
  6.10 Pull Magnets
  6.11 Damaged Track

  7.1 Unlocking machines and courses
  7.2 Expert Techniques
  7.3 General Tips, Cornering and Shortcuts
  7.4 Jet Vermillion code








F-Zero: Maximum Velocity was released in 2001 as the third major
game in the F-Zero series. It is the first one available on a pocket
or portable system, and is, in my opinion, the best of the Game Boy
Advanceís launch titles. It contains 22 tracks, ten machines, high
speed racing and violent machine ramming - essential aspects of the
F-Zero series.

1.1   Background Story

The F-Zero Grand Prix's origins can be traced back to the 20th
Century, where Formula 1 races began. The racing became faster and
faster in Formula 1 through the 21st Century, and by the 24th
Century, a spin-off from Formula 1 called the F-Max Grand Prix was
developed. As area for courses on planets ran out, courses began to
be placed high above cities. These Grand Prixís didnít cared about
life or citizens - it was a timeless quest for power, fame and

However the F-Max Grand Prix was an overly violent race, and
casualty free races were an absolute rarity, and basically an
impossibility. In fact, the reports of 7481 deaths are now generally
accepted as fact, while the number of injuries was possibly greater.
This violence led to the F-Max Grand Prix being known as the "Race
of Gore". The F-Max Grand Prix was eventually wound up, when 34
racers, including the Grand Emperor's son and The Skull, were

The F-Zero Grand Prix started in the 26th Century, when the highly
compact plasma machines that were used in F-Max racing were made
safer. Capable of track speeds in excess of 800 km/h (500 mph),
these machines floated approximately 6 inches (15 centimetres) above
the track using the "G-Diffuser System" ,a gravity opposing
creation. The Grand Prix has been influenced over many years by
wealthy ex-space merchants, who saw great revenue through gambling
in F-Zero Racing. So the F-Zero Execution Project was set up.

Drivers were brought through years of laborious and rigourous
training to prepare for the high speeds and violence of the F-Zero
Grand Prix. This was carried out at the F-Zero Academy, where the
experienced campaigners of F-Zero Racing would nurture and look
after and nurture the youngsters, and teach them safe and careful
driving. The F-Zero Academy was one of the requirements of the
reintroduction of F-Zero racing.

However the recklessness of certain drivers led to many casualties -
including the deaths of The Skull and Dr. Stewart's father and the
near death of the Mighty Gazelle, who became a cyborg and has a
permanent metal cast to cover his wounds. As a result, the F-Zero
Grand Prix was discontinued for many years, although practice on the
now unused tracks continued, as did the F-Zero Academy.

Due to the support of many fans and wealthy sponsors, the F-Zero
Grand Prix returned under the new name of F-Zero X. Rules were
changed, the machines made larger as to fit in more safety equipment
and the tracks were, as a general rule, safer. The F-Zero Execution
project changed their name to the F-Zero X Execution project, and
the racing continued. The Skull even returned to race on, thanks to
the use of black magic.

Now, there is a new generation of riders - nurtured by the greats of
F-Zero X's days, like Captain Falcon, Silver Neelsen and Super
Arrow. It's been 25 years since these greats piloted their way to
interstellar fame as F-Zero racers. And F-Zero has began to fade
away into a small sense of obscurity now that their days of fame
have withered into a legend. But as the space merchants began to run
out of money, there became more daring brave souls willing to give
the hardest races of them all another go.

This is F-Zero: Maximum Velocity.

1.2   Game Info

Full Name       F-Zero: Maximum Velocity
Also called     F-Zero for Game Boy Advance, F-Zero Advance
System          Game Boy Advance
Players         1-4
Genre           Racing
Developer       ND Cube
Publisher       Nintendo
Release Dates   Jap: Mar 2001, US: Jun 11, Aus/Eur: Jun 22.
ESRB Rating     E - Everyone
Accessories     Multiplayer Link Cable, PowerPak EX, GlowGuard
Lead Programmer Tomohito Ito
Lead Artist     Takashi Kouyama
Lead Designer   Isshin Shimizu



The Options Menu is reached by selecting it from the Menu Select
Screen. Note that there are no other options for you to edit outside
of the Options screen. Here you can edit the amount of continues you
get in a Grand Prix, your controller setup and whether or not you
want the music on.

2.1   Erasing game data

If you wish to erase ALL game data, then hold both the L and R
shoulder buttons immediately after switching your Game Boy Advance
on. You will then be shown a screen which asks ďErase all saved game
data?Ē Obviously, select Ďyesí to erase and Ďnoí to cancel.

If you wish to erase individual saved game files, then select
'CLEAR' at the bottom right hand corner on the File Select Screen.
The simply select the saved game file you wish to erase and press A
to start deleting the file, then 'OK' to confirm that you wish to
completely erase the given file.

Note: However, I have found that after a friend of mine sold his
copy of F-Zero: Maximum Velocity to someone, the original game
ownerís fast times were still stored in the mixed rankings section.
If you wish to delete these times, you must delete ALL game data.

2.2   Game Controls

This section outlines everything you can possibly do in F-Zero by
pressing any of Game Boy Advanceís ten buttons

/   L                         R   \
|         _______________         |         A:           Accelerate
|   |    |               |        |         B:           Brake
| -- --  |   GAME  BOY   |     A  |         Control Pad: Steer
|   |    |    ADVANCE    |  B     |         L:           Drift Left
|        |               |        |         R:           Drift Right
|        |    Maximum    |        |         Start:       Pause
|  start |   Velocity.   |        |         Select:      Watch Demo
| select  ---------------         |         L + R:       Boost

While Jumping: Press down on the control pad to gain extra air (The
Long Jump Technique) - this is vitally essential as you will need it
to pull off the shortcuts and sometimes, depending on your choice of
machine, you may need it just to make some of the long jumps on
courses. Also press down when landing so your machine maintains
speed and doesnít lose any energy. Using and MASTERING both
techniques is an absolute must - if you canít, then you can forget
about master mode. Both techniques will be dealt with in much more
detail in the Expert Techniques section [7.2] of this FAQ.

While Steering: In addition to Normal steering, you can also use L
and R to execute drift turns and strafe running. I will, like with
the jumping techniques, deal with the cornering techniques in
section 7.3.

If you wish to use other controller set-ups for the on track racing,
you can. F-Zero gives you a choice of six different controller
types. They are as follows:

                      CONTROLLER SET-UPS
     |               |   1      2      3      4      5      6   |
     | ACCELERATOR:  |   A      B      A      B      A      B   |
     | BRAKE:        |   B      A     L+R    L+R     B      A   |
     | BOOST METHOD: |  L+R    L+R     B      A      U      U   |

          A - A Button         L+R - L and R shoulder buttons
          B - B Button           U - Up on the Control Pad

Controller One is the default setting, and the one most people will
use. I donít recommend numbers 5 and 6, as I have on a few occasions
accidentally boosted when using these settings. The choice is
entirely up to you. Personally, I use setting 1, because it makes it
much easier to boost without taking your finger/thumb off the
accelerator. But as I said, choose whatever you're most comfortably



F-Zero: Maximum Velocity contains 5 playable game modes (Grand Prix,
Training, Single-Pak Link, Multi-Pak Link and Championship) and a

3.1   Grand Prix

The feature of F-Zero: Maximum Velocity. There are four cups with
five tracks each and you race against other high-tech plasma
machines at high speeds over five laps with the sole aim of
finishing in the top three so you can continue on to the next race
in the Grand Prix.

The Cups are:

  >> Pawn -   an easy introduction to F-Zero. Contains only a slight
              guide to what lies ahead in the game.
  >> Bishop - A little bit harder, but still doesnít present major
              challenges to most gamers. An introduction to some of
              the more annoying obstacles arrives here.
  >> Knight - Much harder than Bishop and probably impossible to the
              average gamer on master difficulty. The computer seems
              to cheat twice as much here as on the other cups...
  >> Queen -  Not as hard as you would expect it to be. Itís easier
              than the Knight course for me. Contains the Plummet
              Circuit (read more in Section 5.17 later).

The Queen cup is unavailable at the beginning, but most gamers
should be able to unlock it without too much trouble. All you have
to do is beat the other three Grand Prix races on the first three
difficulty levels. Speaking of difficulty levels, there are four of
these as well:

      >> Beginner - Very simple. With no disrespect intended, but
    no-one should ever fail to complete all courses on this level
    within three hours of game play. The CPU machines make no effort
    to overtake you unless you let them, they slow down on every
    corner and never boost.

      >> Standard - Still easy. The CPU machines begin to make an
    effort to overtake you, but even still itís only a few that do.
    But wait for the big jump to Expert.

      >> Expert - And you though F-Zero was easy? The CPU machines
    will bump you drive faster than you and always keep on your tail
    no matter how fast you drive, so thereís almost no point
    speeding ahead to build an unbeatable lead.

      >> Master - Average gamers can forget about this. This level
    may cause you to throw objects such as your Game Boy Advance
    and your F-Zero cartridge into the wall. The CPU will drive
    around 2% faster than you, and will stick on your tail while you
    boost. If you take a shortcut, they will catch you in milli-
    seconds, but not pass you for about 3 seconds. The slower
    machines will get in your way, the faster ones will ram you into
    walls, mines, bombs and other machines. All other machines have
    unlimited energy. Seem unfair... ?

Once you complete a series in all four difficulty levels, you
receive a chess piece corresponding to the cup that you beat. It can
be found with the driver with whom you won the cup on master mode.

You can be disqualified from the race if you do not reach the goals
set each lap. You must finish in at least:

       |                            |
       |  15th    after   1   lap   |
       |  10th    after   2   laps  |
       |  7th     after   3   laps  |
       |  5th     after   4   laps  |
       |  3rd     after   5   laps  |

...and never drop to 20th [last] place if you wish to keep racing.
This means that you must be consistently up the top of the field (or
improving so that you will get there) if you want to complete a
course. The trick is to never slip out of the top three, but thatís
a lot easier to say than to do.

Your machine will blow up if you run out of energy, and if you have
no more continues/spare machines remaining, your Grand Prix will be

You will note after playing a short while that there are a lot of
really slow cars that shouldnít be in the game. Most of them are
crumpled up yellow Ďthingsí [they donít deserve to be called F-Zero
machines] and they will get in your way. On the easier difficulty
levels, they arenít such a worry, but by the time you get up to the
harder levels - especially master - they will block you and clip you
so that you lose 1/10 or 2/10 of a second. Now this doesnít seem
like much, but it all builds up. It is absolutely essential, and I
can not stress this enough, that you DO NOT HIT THESE SLOW MACHINES!

Contrary to the belief of some, your times in the Grand Prix are
recorded and can become your fastest (if you donít try training mode
that is...).

3.2   Training

This would have been much more aptly named Time Attack, as it was in
the Nintendo 64 version F-Zero X. Basically, all training is to the
average gamer is a place to practise for the Grand Prix. But to
those who are serious about their F-Zero, the training mode is for
setting fast times to challenge friends or post on websites (Iíll
deal with the website bit in more detail in Section 10: Internet

In training mode, you complete your five laps with or without
competition. You firstly choose your machine, then whether you want
to race an opponent. If not, select ďNo EntryĒ, but if you do pick
an opponent, you can pick any other machine you have unlocked and
the difficulty level (Beginner - Master) they will race at. If you
choose Beginner, it should be a stroll in the park, but on the other
hand, Master is not so easy.

Anyway, after you select machines, you then choose a course. Once
this is done, youíre racing/practicing. Your times are recorded as
they are in the Grand Prix.

3.3   Multi-Pak Link

The only real way to play F-Zero multiplayer. Connect all Game Boy
Advanceís using the Multi Link cables that will be involved in the
fun before starting up the systems, and itís pretty self explanatory
from that point onwards. Playing this form of multiplayer, enables a
faster transfer of information, and therefore it is quicker. But the
real advantage is that you get to choose the machine and course. The
fun doesnít end if you have friends who own F-Zero. You can also
choose whether the CPU controls the remaining machines if you have 2
or 3 people playing.

Via this, you can also exchange rankings - see section 9 for more

3.4   Single-Pak Link

A real letdown here. If you wish to play multiplayer, you need
multiple F-Zero carts to get the most out of it. Using 1 game pak,
you are given a course called Silence Open C, and each player is
assigned a machine of a different colour, but equal attributes and
ratings. There is no music or sound effects available either. The
machines, quite uninventively, are called Green Kim, Yellow Kim, Red
Kim and Blue Kim. The machines are similar to the Hot Violet in their
behaviour as far as steering goes.

3.5   Championship Mode

This is how you separate the sheep from the goats and the boys from
the men, or whatever they say. The Championship course is impossible
for beginners, annoying for those with a small level of experience,
easy for most and a walkover for some. The aim is to beat the Ghost
time of 1í57Ē65 set by Megan in the Hot Violet on this specially
designed course. You can use any machine that is normally available
to you in your attempt to beat the ghost, which isnít that hard -
I almost won with my first attempt at it, and the top time as
recorded at the Official Nintendo of Japan F-Zero page (see the
Ranking section - 9.0) is almost lapping the ghost TWICE.

You can choose whether to have the ghost showing as you attempt your
record. If you do, then it may be a distraction, but at least you
know whether you need to go faster or not. But after a little
practise, you should lose ghost on the first lap, so that idea is
almost redundant.

You can view a replay of the Hot Violetís run and pick up the
mistakes it makes - these are the places you can improve on the
ghost time. I have made a short list of them here:

    1. They use the Hot Violet - the best machine is the Jet
       Vermillion, followed by the Fighting Comet.
    2. Doesnít take a sharp enough line on the early corners and
       loses valuable time
    3. Leaves the mines - you can bounce off these at high speeds.
       This is an essential tactic with the Jet Vermillion so you can
       build up early speed.
    4. Doesnít cut the corners when jumping, and therefore fails to
       shave half/quarter-seconds off the time.
    5. Misses boosts on laps 4 and 5. Costs her seconds here.

So as you can see, there are many places that you can improve on
the time of the Hot Violet. A good pilot can clock sub 1:35, only
the best of the best can get sub 1:25. I now feel 1:20 is impossible
for anyone to achieve having watched how fast people go in order to
clock 1:26 or 1:27. The best time I have seen so far is 1'23"14 - and
it probably doesn't get too much quicker than that.

Please note that lapping the Ghost is expected, not an achievement.
And if you are having trouble beating the ghost, start practising
with either the Fighting Comet or the Jet Vermillion, and use drift
turns, or strafe-running - see the section 7.3: Cornering Techniques)

3.6   Demo

Press ďselectĒ at the Title Screen to view a demo. The demo will
choose a course from this list:

    1. Pawn Final: Cloud Carpet - Long Jump Circuit  [Fireball]
    2. Knight 4:   Ancient Mesa - Skating Circuit  [J.B. Crystal]
    3. Queen 2:    Tenth Zone East - Plummet Circuit  [Wind Walker]
    4. Pawn 1:     Bianca City - Stretch Circuit  [Hot Violet]

But the problem is that these demonstrations are appalling. They
really should be like a challenge, or a time to beat. But without
trying you can hammer them. They make so many stupid mistakes that
it is almost funny. Watch one demo, and that will be all you need.



There are ten playable machines in F-Zero, of which six have to be
unlocked in order to be used. The first four machines are available
for use from the very start of the game. The machines vary not only
in appearance, but also in nine categories:

1. Top Speed
    The speed in km/h that the machine reaches normally. 
2. Max Boost Speed
    The speed in km/h that the machine reaches while boosting.
3. Boost Time
    The amount of time a boost lasts for. The longer, the better.
4. Body Strength
    How strong the machine is when colliding with other machines,
    obstacles and walls.
5. Turn Balance
    This determines the level of skidding and sliding a machine will
    have when it turns sharp corners.
6. Turn Performance
    How sharply the machine can turn, as an average of its abilities
    under all conditions and surfaces. Different machines corner
    vastly differently on ice, dirt normal track etc.
7. Jump
    How far the machine can jump upon hitting jump plates. This
    affects the machines ability to take shortcuts that require long
8. Boost Maintenance
    How long it takes for the machine to lose all extra speed gained
    by boosting, with the higher score meaning longer (and better)
    retaining of the high speeds attained while boosting.
9. Acceleration
    How long it takes for the machine to reach top speed. Keep in
    mind that you do not get straight to top speed when using a
    Rocket Start, and therefore this technique does not negate a
    slow acceleration.

4.1   Basic Machine Overview

Some important things you should know before picking your machine:

   > Trial them all, and pick one that you can control and steer.
   > Remember that practise makes perfect, and you might not be able
     to do something the first time. Just give it another go.
   > Some machine ratings are deceptive. Try using different
     cornering techniques or turning the corner early.
   > The Jet Vermillion is a training-mode only machine
   > You will not unlock the Fighting Comet with the J.B. Crystal
     (unless you are a freak), but it is the best vehicle for
     beginners and those who have trouble steering.

4.2   Hot Violet
MAX SPEED:        422km
BOOST TIME:       6 seconds
JUMP:             C
A well-balanced machine that is strongly recommended for beginners.
The turning and cornering ratings leave a bit to be desired, but if
a beginner can handle this, they can handle almost anything. Lack of
any major machine "brilliances" means that the Hot Violet is not the
best machine for the harder difficulty levels.

4.3   Fire Ball
MAX SPEED:        440km
BOOST TIME:       6.5 seconds
JUMP:             B
Fast and strong, the Fireball leads the Hot Violet as an overall
machine, but it's acceleration isn't as good as it could be. If
you can stay of the walls, this is a beast of a machine that isnít
easy to catch. Any pilot with a few hours of practice should be
able to use this machine to their advantage, even though it could be
much better.

4.4   J.B. Crystal
MAX SPEED:        418km
BOOST TIME:       9.5 seconds
JUMP:             B
With its long boost time and great jumping and cornering, the JB
Crystal is the best machine for a beginner. When you get the hang
of this machine, you might want to go onto the faster machines,
for the simple reason that this light blue machine just doesn't
match it with the big boys on master difficulty.

4.5   Crazy Horse/Wind Walker
MAX SPEED:        428km
BOOST TIME:       5.3 seconds
JUMP:             A
Weak - very weak - the Crazy Horse or Wind Walker has the lowest
body and average grip, but it is very fast. The best machine for
making shortcuts with, this machine is too difficult for a beginner,
and is easily nudged off course on master difficulty mode. However,
it is useful in setting fast times.

4.6   Dirty Joker/Sly Joker
MAX SPEED:        436km
BOOST TIME:       3 seconds
JUMP:             C
A great choice - this well-rounded machine is similar to the JB
Crystal, only improved. When you unlock this, it should be your
first choice machine until you can get at the Falcon MkII. The
downside to this is its jumping - sometimes you will struggle to
pull off the all important shortcut on Pawn 5.

4.7   The Stingray
MAX SPEED:        460km
BOOST TIME:       12 seconds
JUMP:             A
ACCELERATION:     D/C (itís between D and C)
A basic machine (or no-frills machine) that you can use, just not
very well. It is great for shortcuts, and in my opinion has the
longest jump in the game. but it doesn't go fast enough when
boosting, even if its boost time is four times the length of the
Dirty Joker's. It also doesn't corner well or accelerate as good as
the others.

4.8   Silver Thunder
MAX SPEED:        464km
BOOST TIME:       3.7 seconds
JUMP:             D
Fast. Strong. Can't Jump, accelerate or steer. Short boost time.
That basically sums up the Silver Thunder. It's inability to win on
high difficulty levels is a problem, as is the problem you'll face
if you can't get the rocket start. It skids out of control so badly,
that I believe it to be the worst machine in the game. Many gamers
will struggle to gain fast times with this. A downsized Jet

4.9   Falcon Mk-II
MAX SPEED:        448km
BOOST TIME:       7.2 seconds
JUMP:             B
The well-rounded machine that has no weaknesses is in a very close
race with the Fighting Comet and Jet Vermillion for best machine in
the game. But where not just anyone can use the Comet and
Vermillion, a beginner will appreciate the fine jumping, speed and
acceleration of the Falcon MkII. A smooth machine that is an almost
perfect Grand Prix choice. Master mode will not seems as difficult

4.10   Fighting Comet
MAX SPEED:        412km
BOOST TIME:       9 seconds
JUMP:             A
Lightning fast. The Comet leaves all in its wake when it boosts,
but when it doesn't, it is left in the wake of it's rivals. All the
same, a smart pilot will be able to defeat anyone with this in a
one-on-one race, but in the rigours of a GP, it's average cornering
and weak body might be found out. Use the Fighting Comet to set fast
times in the Time Trial/Practise mode.

4.11   Jet Vermilion
MAX SPEED:        456km
BOOST TIME:       4.2 seconds
JUMP:             D
The Jet Vermillion is insanely fast, but it has the worst
acceleration in the game, the worst jump in the game, and the worst
steering in the game. For any beginner, forget this machine ever
existed. In the domain of professionals, master this machine to
lap the ghost in the Championship course. It steers surprisingly well
on ice considering it's ratings. If you can keep the Jet of the
walls, it sets damn good times.

4.12   Which machine should you choose?

This comes down to game mode, availability and a little bit of
personal preference.

If you are attempting a Grand Prix:

Immediately discard the Jet Vermillion and Silver Thunder. You donít
want these in this event. The Fighting Comet should also go, as itís
not strong enough to cope with being bashed around. These reason
also goes for the Wind Walker, which has a body strength rating of
just 50. The Fireball is next to be cut, as it is just not good
enough. Itís not fast, its cornering is average - nothing makes it
stand out from the pack. The same goes for the Hot Violet. The J.B.
Crystal is too slow and so it is also cut.

So we are left with the Sly Joker, the Falcon MkII and the Stingray.

If you are setting fast times in the Training mode:

Two choices here. When speed is all that matters, you donít pussy-
foot around with the J.B. Crystal. Of course you go for the big
guns, namely the Jet Vermillion and the Fighting Comet. While the
Comet is weak, the Vermillion wonít accelerate and neither can turn
brilliantly, a little practise (and some skill) is all thatís
required to shave half seconds of lap times everywhere.



F-Zero: Maximum Velocity contains 22 all new tracks. A brief
description and guide to beating them is listed below. More track
info coming in a later version of this FAQ.

Pawn 1 - Bianca City
This track is an excellent introduction to the game, striking a
balance between excitement and ease of use. Nice wide lanes with
plenty of overtaking opportunities, none of the bends are too sharp.
Take the first jump to cut the corner and boost over the slow down
area to cut some serious seconds of your time. The most challenging
corner is the gentle 180 degree bend before the start-finish
straight. This is the second easiest course in the game.

Pawn 2 - Stark Farm
This track is quite difficult for beginners. Narrow with lots of
corners, the course has numerous areas where the surface has broken
up, causing your craft to slow down if hit. Several 90 degree bends
and one very narrow 180 degree turn make this track a difficult nut
to crack. Use your boost at the start of the long straight -
straights are a rarity on this course. At a lot of places on this
course, moving room is minimal, so if you get a half chance to
overtake, do so. Stick to the inside running on all corners and
donít hit the wall.

Pawn 3 - Empyrean Colony
A wider track, not too dissimilar from Bianca City, this course
poses no real problems. One very wide 180 degree bend is easy for
anyone with a little cornering practise to negotiate. The only
tricky part comes in split road section, giving you the choice of
going left or right. Speed up markers appear on both sides, and
hitting them all without slamming into the side of the track may be
difficult for some, but is essential for a fast time. My preferred
option is to go to the left hand side, but neither of the sides are
noticeably quicker. Some people say that going to the right makes
it easier to take the following sharp left corner, but I have no
problems going either side.

Pawn 4 - Stark Farm
Another wide track, however this one narrows in places due to dirt
stuff. This dirt should be avoided as it works like the dart zones
in F-Zero X ie. it slows you down. With one easy 180 degree turn,
this track should present you with no real problems. The turn at
point B should be mastered - turns like this cannot be stuffed up
if you want to do well at F-Zero. Just before the straight is where
you should use up your remaining boosts - there is a section where
the track winds through the slow-down zone, but if you boost, you
can rocket your way past opponents with ease along the black stuff.

Pawn 5 - Clouds Carpet
A challenging track, Clouds Carpet is drastically varies in width.
Some sections of the track are slim-line racing, while others are
nice and wide. Three 180 degree turns mean positioning your craft
to take the correct line through the corners is essential. A large
section of track is missing towards the end of the lap, requiring
you to jump across the chasm. This is where the greatest of
shortcuts comes in: Instead of jumping across in a straight line,
you pick up the boost on the left. Just before you hit the boost
plate, you veer left - still hitting it, but so you are going on a
sharp angle. Just collect the jump, and steer left in the air.
Hopefully you will be able to land just on the track. This may
require some practise, but it is the best shortcut in the game.

Knight 1 - Tenth Zone East
A wide track with one 180 degree turn, several 90 degree turns and
a challenging chicane (left then right 90 degree turns). Nothing
too difficult here with lots of overtaking opportunities -
especially on the straights, but also by taking the inside line on
some of the more gentle corners. East Ten Side is a basic
introduction to the Knight class, but not necessarily a warning for
what lies ahead.

Knight 2 - Beacon Port
A very twisty track, distinctive by the way the track splits in two
and forms a large figure of eight. There are many sharp 90 degree
corners and a couple of almost 180 degree bends. At point A, a hard
left is required. This cup seems to me to be the one for cornering.
Deciding on which way to go at the figure 8 is again your choice -
but my opinion is you turn right and always stay right (experienced
cornerers only). This section looks a lot harder than it actually
is, but you should be warned. Avoiding colliding with other vehicle
at the crossing is purely down to luck. Hitting the speed up
markers on this track requires good anticipation of the following
corners, otherwise you will be slamming the course's side walls in
no time.

Knight 3 - Synobazz
This track contains some devious mines which deplete power from
your vehicle if hit. Fortunately the mines can only be hit once,
but the craters they leave will slow down your craft if run over.
The actual track consists of one tight 180 degree corner, a twisty
S bend, and a 270 degree turn containing the mines. A jump ramp is
also present, which must be hit to avoid some damaged track. Some
of the damaged track appears to be on fire, and will drain power
from your vehicle if hit.

Knight 4 - Ancient Mare
A very difficult track, the Ancient Mare track is distinctive by
it's "upside down triangular" split in the road. The problem in
this area is magnified because the back end of the triangle is
virtually impossible to turn on due to the icy road (this is
identified by the track turning white and your vehicle skidding out
of control if attempting to steer). The best way of heading back in
the correct direction is to hit the speed up ramp at the base of
the triangle. This will ricochet your craft along the right
heading, requiring only corrective steering on your part to avoid
slamming into the side of the track where the road narrows. At the
end of this massive section of ice is a very tight fit. Barge your
way through, unless you chose a weak, stupid, little machine like
the Crazy Horse or Fighting Comet. A section of track is also
missing towards the end of the lap, but fortunately a jump ramp is
present to help you across.

Knight 5 - Stark Farm
A very easy track with a split in the road that has two very
different sections depending upon the choice you make. Going left
results in a longer stretch of road and some narrow sections of
track, but overall your speed will be maintained. Going right
results in a shorter trip and a jump over a missing section of
track (a jump ramp is provided and you actually leap over part of
the road from the left fork). However, after the jump an un-
avoidable section of damaged track appears which severely slows
down your vehicle. I would therefore suggest you always turn left,
but if you go right mistake it is possible to drop down onto the
crossing track at the jump by angling your craft to the right at
the jump ramp.

Bishop 1 - Bianca City
Bianca City is a very straightforward track with no real
challenges, just a few 90 degree bends and the 135 degree turn that
should present no problems. Boost directly after the 135 degree
right turn and into the straight.

Bishop 2 - Ancient Mare
The major troubles here are the ice and the split road. With the
split road, all you need to do is remember which side you entered,
because if you branched off left you must exit left and vice versa.
The road surface here is icy and is therefore very slippery.
Further on two 180 degree turns loom and both of these are icy too,
which make for a large challenge. Boost are best used on the large

Bishop 3 - Crater Land 
Crater land is a very unique track. There are three splits in the
road, the first of which gives you the choice of speed up markers
(left) or power recharge (right), the second gives you speed up
markers each side, and the third gives you the choice of power
recharge (left) or speed up markers (right). In between the second
and third splits are energy fields, or as they are more commonly
referred to as, elevators. These obstacles pull your craft to the
left and right. This is not a problem on the wider stretches of
road, but requires precise counter-steering where the track narrows
and the elevators remain.

Bishop 4 - Clouds Carpet
A very twisty narrow track makes this course very tricky, however
this can be counteracted by the use of one good move, and one
sensational move. We'll get to those later. Leading up to point A
is a few basic turns, and at the aforementioned point, take the
left boost if possible, and propel your machine across in front of
the pack (if possible). Here is a good time to be in first, as the
slimline areas can be clogged up. Now to those shortcuts. Leading
into to the first one, you must take a very sharp left so you can
pick up the jump. Then fly over the edge of the track and you can
pick up some valuable places. And for the excellent move, you use
the next jump, in conjunction with the Long Jump Technique to fly
over. The next turn may become a little difficult for novices, but
by the time you attempt this cup, you should be decently trained in
piloting an F-Zero Machine. Using this, you can cut some serious
seconds of your lap times, while everyone else is navigating a 180
degree turn.

Bishop 5 - Bianca City
Bianca City is twisty and narrow in places, with three wide 180
degree turns and a couple of chicanes (one with sections of damaged
track). Overall this is a fairly straight- forward track, that
shouldn't be of any trouble to anyone. With a rocket start, no-one
will easily catch you - if you drive well and take a look at your
"mark" thingy - this tells you where your opponent is. And if
you're not driving on master difficulty.

Queen 1 - Crater Land
A course with no left turns. The first experience of Queen class is
very gentle, this course is almost an oval with no tricky corners.
Just round and round for a very easy ride. Get the boost and cut
the corner at the first jump - very professional pilots will land
on the next jump plate. First-timers need to watch out for damaged
areas of track, but jump ramps are available to help you over -
never skip one. Remember to press down on the D-Pad (ie. long jump
technique) while jumping to get some more air.

Queen 2 - Tenth Zone East
The second course of the Queen Cup has 5 breaks in the track, each
of which does not quite line up straight. Jump ramps help you
across, but you must correct direction while in the air, and
remember to press down on the D-Pad to add a few extra inches to
your jump - you'll need them! Or, you can use the shortcuts. For
the first one - at the you need a severe left to even consider it -
this is for machines with high grip that don't spin out of control
on sharp turns such as this one. The second one is easier to pull
off, but upon landing, make sure you donít end up going the wrong
way because you couldn't get enough right-hand turning ability.
However, if you do pull off the two shortcuts on each lap, and you
lose, you should be dragged into the street and shot.

Queen 3 - Laputan Colony
This course would be pretty straight forward were it not for the
spin markers. Hit these little puppies and your craft will spin 180
degrees on the spot, leaving you facing the wrong direction. Things
are not made any easier by these appearing immediately after speed
up markers, so be careful when hitting them. The hardest ones to
avoid are around part B - but hit any of them and your race is
almost over.

Queen 4 - Fire Field
This track is peppered with mines that blow up and damage your
craft if hit. The flaming craters they leave behind also damage
your vehicle if run over, so avoid if possible. A tricky double
hair pin turn needs particular care to avoid mine damage.

Queen 5 - Fire Field
The mines on this track are positioned in rows making them easier
to avoid. Jump ramps appear before each row of mines, so position
the vehicle right and you will sail over most of them, hopefully not
landing on one! At the split road, I recommend going left -
but only if your machine is low on energy. Also, there is a very
difficult shortcut - try it in practise heaps before you
attempt it in a GP.

The course begins with a straight, with the pit lane is on the
left. As you end the straight there are some quick turns - right,
left, then a wide 180 degree turn. The only difficulty is that
there are four mines to avoid here. Then after the 180, there are
three dart zones. The first one is on the left, the second on the
right and the third is back on the left. As you pass the third dart
zone there is a 90 degree left turn. Stay left after this turn to
avoid the damaged track and mines on the right. After the mines
there is a an easy right turn and then two jumps - left first, then
right. You can't get both, but take the one on the right. Press
down upon landing as not to take any power losses. After the jumps
are two more easy turns, right then left. Following this there are
two side-by-side boost plates - you must get one of them. This is
followed by a weird shaped chicane, consisting of what would
usually be an easy left and an easy right, except for the tracks
condition. Some sand-coloured stuff litters the track and therefore
steering is twice as hard as steering with ice. But don't give up
yet. There is then a skinny section of the course on a right turn,
and following that there is a boost in the center. Immediately
after hitting that, steer right (or drift - but drifting is harder
in this situation) to pick up another boost on your right. On laps
2-5, boost as soon as you get half-way through the aforementioned
skinny section. It's the bottom most section of the track.
Beginners - have fun...



There are many objects that can be found on the course in F-Zero.
While some can help you, others are hindrances and should be avoided
at all costs. Here is an outline of the objects:

6.1   Pit Lanes

Recover your energy by going through the unmistakeably green pit
lanes. After your machine has taken a battering at the hands of your
mean rivals and the track, you need to avoid suffering low power.
Thatís why you use the pit lanes. Generally they are located to the
side of the course just after the finish line, but this is not
always the case - Queen 3 has two pit lanes - both found on split
road situations. On courses like Fire Field (Queen 4ís Landmine
Circuit), a weak machine can be pummelled, and you may need to brake
in order to pick up the required high levels of energy you need. In
Training, the pit lane doesnít mean much, as you shouldnít need it
that much.

6.2   Dash Plates

Instantly increase your speed to 639 km/h by going over a dash
plate. The are pink, arrow shaped and prolific in courses like Queen
3 and Pawn 3. These are to be hit whenever possible as they are
required to set mad times. Depending on the Boost maintenance rating
of your machine, these boosts may last a very short or very long

6.3   Jump Plates

Jump (duh) long distances with these beauties. Useful for taking
the shortcuts in Pawn 1, Pawn 5, Knight 4, Bishop 4, Queen 2, Queen
1 - you get the picture. You can also fly over the slow machines
that annoyingly get in your way. Jump plates are light blue and they
appear to be a straight, horizontal line. Just remember to hold down
to increase jumping distance and as not to lose energy and speed
when you land. Just remember that almost every jump is a shortcut,
but not every machine can make it - the Jet Vermillion is an
appalling jumper of long distances. When in the air, you can turn by
using blast turns. This is a good tactic if you are offline or get
bumped in the air, but hopefully youíll never need to use it.

6.4   Ice

Appears a hell of a lot in the Ancient Mesa course. Your craft can
turn sharper corners on ice, but will spin out unless you can master
cornering on this surface. While speed is not decreased, your craft
will have noticeably lower acceleration, so it is very essential
that you donít ram into the back of anyone - and stay off the walls.
It looks sort of like ice - bluish-white and shiny, but once you get
driving on it, itís unmistakeably ice.

If you hit the wall and start sliding backwards on ice, rapidly tap
the accelerator to stop and get back to normal.

6.5   Dart Zones

The slow down area. To be avoided at all costs unless boosting, in
which case itís really not that bad at all. There are two types of
dart zones; the first looks like dirt - a solid black covering of
the course; and the second, which appears a lot in the Pawn 1 course
is more patchy. The difference is quite minimal - both slow you down
heaps but your turning is slightly more wayward on the dirt-like
substance. But all problems can be avoided by good cornering or by
boosting over the troublesome patches.

6.6   Land Mines

The two Fire Field courses at the end of the Queen cup are littered
with land mines. I canít really be bothered counting them. But you
really should be bothered avoiding them if your machine has a low
body strength rating. Because often, one mine leads to another which
leads to the wall and before you know it, youíve got low power. So
for all of you who use the Fighting Comet, Wind Walker (Crazy Horse)
or the Falcon MkII to a lesser extent, leave the land mines alone.
Mines are very obvious in appearance and when hit, create a section
of damaged track (see section 6.11). They take a small section of
your energy meter away and can be a help or a hindrance.

But how can they be a help...? Well itís quite simple: if you use a
tank like the Silver Thunder and especially the ďeternal tankĒ - The
Jet Vermillion - youíre in business, because not only do the mines
deal a very small amount of damage to strong machines, but all
machines can gain a speed advantage out of land mines. You may or
may not have noticed when you hit one, your speed increases. This is
a great thing for those who struggle to get to top speed early
enough to make an impact with the Jet Vermillion. Now all you have
to do is clip the mine - donít run head on into it, but graze its
side and spurt off at approx. 550km/h in the direction you wanted to
go in. Now this would be even better if it dealt minimal damage, I
hear you saying - but itís a ďgain a bit and lose a bitĒ situation.
You mustnít hit so many of the bombs that you lose a lot of energy
and begin to suffer from low power. You must hit the right balance.
I should also warn you that quite often the rebound of the mine can
be a bit difficult to control ,but if you practise a lot, youíll get

6.7   Spin Markers

Appearing on Queen 3, these small, round, gray thingies spin you
around 180 degrees. They can be frustrating for a beginner, but they
are actually quite easy to avoid, even when boosting. Some spin
markers will actually spin you in the general direction of where you
wanted to go, but this is unlikely. Generally speaking, youíll go
either into a wall and drop one or two places, or youíll go into two
walls and drop some more places. They are situated in a very easy to
remember pattern around Queen 3, so you shouldnít have any problems
remembering where they are and therefore avoiding them.

6.8   Black Bombs

This is the best name I could come up with for these. They come in
the opposite direction to you, but at a very slow speed, so they are
not that had to avoid. As with land mines, you lose energy from your
power bar if you hit one, but also with mines, you can use them to
your advantage. If you need a boost but donít have one, just graze
the side of one of these, and enjoy a speed boost. Of course, you
still lose some energy, but there is no need to worry about hitting
one or two of these.

6.9   Gravity Belts

Iím not exactly sure what these are called, but they appear most
noticeably after the second jump on Queen 5. They flash in different
colours and pull your craft to the surface, therefore (obviously)
reducing the jumping distance of your craft. This can be quite
frustrating, especially when you are trying to pass an opponent by
flying over him.

6.10   Pull Magnets

Like giant conveyor belts, they pull you from one side of the course
to the other. Well, itís not as bad as that sounds. ďMoving section
of track that is easily recognisable and seen well in advance which
does you no damageĒ is a better and more accurate name, but itís too
long. These appear on Bishop 3ís Crater Land course, which is heaps
of fun for all. If you use L and R to slide in the opposite
direction to that of the belts, you will almost completely negate
the effect of them and everything will return to normal.

6.11   Damaged Track

This can appear as part of the course, or from the connection of
machine and land mine (but not machine and black bomb). You lose
some damage when going over this, so there is no need to go out of
your way to hit it. On the other hand, if you canít avoid it, then
thereís no real damage done. On Knight 3 - the great Explosive
Circuit at Synobazz - make sure you make the jump before the massive
sections of Damaged Track, because with that much of the stuff
around, there is no point going through it, and youíll lose heaps of
energy. Plus itís quicker to take the jump.



It wouldnít surprise me if you need help with this game. It is quite
challenging, and Iím not going to bad mouth anyone who hasnít beaten
master difficulty yet. If you havenít beaten Expert, well, then this
section is definitely for you. All the hints, tips, cheats and other
stuff that youíll need to win.

7.1   Unlocking machines and courses

Pretty self-explanatory here. Just do what it says and youíll get the

Dirty Joker:      Beat the Pawn, Knight & Bishop series on Standard.
The Stingray:     Beat all Pawn, Knight and Bishop tracks on Expert.
Silver Thunder:   Beat one series on Master difficulty.
Falcon MK-II:     Beat all four series on Expert (including queen).
Fighting Comet:   Beat Master Class on all four Series.
Jet Vermilion:    You have to complete each GP on Master difficulty
                  with each machine. Or you can also get it by
                  finishing the championship course 255 times. Or do
                  the cheat (I really donít recommend it though)
                  that can be found in section 7.4.
Queen Series:     Beat Pawn, Knight and Bishop on Expert.
Championship      Register a ranking-worthy time in every course and
Mode:             every series, to unlock the 21st track.
Master            You must beat a series on Expert to unlock Master
difficulty:       difficulty. Note that you will only unlock the
                  Master difficulty mode for that series.

7.2   Expert Techniques

The Expert Techniques are essential for winning on the higher
difficulty levels of Expert and Master. You need the Rocket Start to
get out in front early, the Long Jump technique to make the
shortcuts and the Blast Turns to make those corners which you, well.
wouldnít have made otherwise.

Rocket Start
Unlike most rocket starts in racing games, F-Zero: Maximum Velocity
requires the racer to have his engine in a revved up, but not high-
pitch sounding noise. Donít make it too soft or high-pitched,
because then you will either start normally or slow down
ridiculously a few hundred meters into the race.

Blast Turn
Tapping the accelerator while turning is how you can execute a blast
turn. Thatís as simple as it gets in this game, and this should take
less than ten minutes to master. Otherwise, youíre stuffed.
Although, you will learn later about all the cornering techniques
available to you.

Long Jump
By pressing down on the Control Pad, you can increase the distance
of your jumps. This is great for getting the few extra inches
required to pull off the shortcuts in F-Zero. Also, keep holding
down until after landing, so that your machines lands safely and
doesnít lose speed and energy when landing.

7.3   General Tips

Beating the CPU, cornering techniques, general hints... itís all

There are many ways of making corners in F-Zero, in addition to the
blatantly obvious ďsteer with the control padĒ idea. While it isnít
hard to make the turns, the top pilots are not out to just make the
corners, they are out to make them brilliantly. And by using strafe
running/drift turns, lean turns, blast turns and more, making these
turns has never been so easy. In principle...

Blast Turns
Explained in Expert Techniques above.

Drift Turns
THE technique to master for setting the fastest possible times in F-
Zero, Drift Turns are complicated but so effective that youíll never
want to stop using it. Itís not only a great timesaver, but itís
also fun to use - the fun gained by skidding along sideways at high
speed is almost unexplainable. Similar to strafe-running (in a very
obscure way), drift turns are done by turning one way, holding the
OPPOSITE shoulder button, and tapping the accelerator until you
start moving forward, and then floor it, and if you have done it
properly youíll have just taken the corner at a higher speed than
ever before, and come out of the corner at a much higher speed than
you previously thought possible. Hang on though, I did say before
ďUntil you start moving forwardĒ? Yes, you will be almost going
sideways, and yes, you will have major problems trying it if youíre
a beginner to F-Zero: Maximum Velocity. But once mastered, this
technique will cut heaps of seconds off your times. Just remember to
use the opposite shoulder button, and if it doesnít work, chances
are youíre not using the accelerator correctly. Just practice on
courses like the two Ancient Mesa courses, and for practice on
courses without ice, try Queen 1 and/or Pawn 1, easy courses where
drift turns make all the difference.

You probably should also note that you need a fair bit of room to do
a decent Drift Turn if youíre a beginner, so forget trying it for
the first time on a course with heaps of skinny sections. It works
best with machines like the Jet Vermillion, Fighting Comet and The
Stingray that you will otherwise have a few difficulties getting the
best out of.

Lean Turns
Done by using the corresponding shoulder button in conjunction with
the control pad. This is something you should be using immediately.
Itís really easy, and for everyone who played the sensational F-Zero
X on the Nintendo 64, itís the same as sliding, but you donít lose
any speed for doing it. It makes turns almost as sharply as with
Blast Turns, but you donít lose that little bit of speed.

This seems so minor, but itís usefulness cannot be underestimated.
Use drifting to its best effect when going in and out of pit lanes,
but also at corners like the one near the end of Knight 2, and the
many others I just canít quite remember where a minor deviation is
needed. Just drift, and with a slight turn, or at low speed, no turn
at all, you breeze through little corners like that one. Another
great use of drifting is where the conveyor belt thingies are in
Pawn 1, you need to avoid the dart zone directly afterwards. Drift
right (or left, depending on your preference and machine) to miss
the dart zone. Note that drifting is done by using the Left and
Right shoulder buttons, for those who donít know the controls
properly, and also that you lose absolutely no speed while drifting,
making it the preferable option to a slight control pad adjustment.

Hugging the Corners
It might seem a bit obvious, but some people never learn that the
sharper you take a corner, the less time it takes. And faster times
mean better a Grand Prix placing or larger bragging rates, depending
on your mode of gameplay. Thereís nothing wrong with ďelectrocutingĒ
yourself at corners, by going slightly through the protective
barriers at the side of the corners. Unless, you go too far, and you
start to lose speed. You need to recognise that you canít gain time
this way - and therefore itís simply not worth it (duh). Some things
you have to repeat for the idiots of the gaming world.

Thatís it for the cornering, but this isnít the only way that you
can save time - thereís also shortcuts.

Itís important to note that almost every jump is either a shortcut
for the machines that jump far or an overtaking opportunity for
everyone else. But Iím also including the dart zones you can boost
over to save time in this section, because I couldnít think of a
better place to put them. Oh yeah, please notes that for tanks like
the Jet Vermillion, these shortcuts may be a bit hard.

Pawn 1
The jump plate just before the first major corner is a shortcut. All
you have to do is hit it, and jump the corner. You can also boost
through the massive dart zone - a huge timesaver.

Pawn 4
Boosting through the dirt means higher speed, a more direct route
and less cornering. A win-win-win situation.

Pawn 5
At the major jump, take the left boost and start turning left. You
should ďrejoinĒ the course at such a mad angle that you fly straight

Knight 4
The jump here is a shortcut, but a hard one to do. Firstly, make
sure you are boosting, as youíll struggle to make it without boost.
Hit as far left on the jump as you can without actually hitting the wall,
and turn as sharply left as you possibly can. Youíll avoid a fair bit of
the course when you land on the home stretch.

Knight 5
Boost through the dart zone stuff if you go left at the split road.

Bishop 4
Two shortcuts here. The first one is the jump just before the ice
starts - hit it and fly over the corner. The next jump is the second
shortcut. Boost before jumping, and avoid the tight hairpin by
flying over the gap and back onto the track just before the sharp
left turn into the home straight.

Queen 1
Use the boost plate and first jump plate to fly over the corner, and
then boost through the dart zone because chances are after the
shortcut you are going to miss the jump plate.

Queen 2
Really hard to do, only try these shortcuts if your machine is going
at full speed and has an A class jump. So Jet Vermillion users -
ignore the following shortcut - you wonít be able to do it. At the
second jump, boost, and turn very sharply to the left. You may or
may not be able to do it, but if you can, you can back it up by a
45 degree turn to the right after the next jump and cut even more
corners. As I said, it is hard, but with some practice you should be
able to achieve it.

Queen 5
At the first jump, turn right and dodge the corner and mines. This,
if done perfectly, will land you in the right path to get the second
jump (which isnít a shortcut) without too much alteration of your

Take either jump and fly across, cutting the corner. This is
something that the Hot Violet ghost does not do which you must.


>> Whatever you do, do not use the Jet Vermillion if you can't get a
rocket start with it. Or if you canít do perfect blast and lean
turns. In fact, donít use it unless you can keep it off the walls
for a whole five laps without braking.

>> Always avoid spin markers even more so than bombs. On master
mode, spin markers can drop you from first to tenth.

>> Only use a machine you can steer. So for all you beginners who
have just used the Jet Vermillion code - wait.

>> Practice a course you're not good at until you know where every
jump, boost, shortcut, corner and mine is.

>> Practice makes perfect - don't ever give up. Youíre completely
entitled to get frustrated and annoyed, but donít go and sell the
game second-hand after five hours because you canít turn 180 degree
corners, or you canít come first on expert on every course.

>> Use every shortcut in the game. The CPU machines will cheat so
much that youíll need it to keep in front/get in front, and itís
also required for setting fast times.

>> Master rocket starts, blast turns, lean turns and the long jump

>> The Jet Vermillion is not a Grand Prix machine.

>> Championship is the ultimate practice course - it has a bit of
everything - mines, boost plates, jumps, shortcuts, dart zones,
sharp corners, skinny track etc. The list of features to this course
go on and on and if you want to practice your [insert skill here],
you can do it on the Championship course.


Forget winning every Grand Prix on master with every machine - this
is how you get the Jet Vermillion. However, I donít exactly look too
favourably on this - you can be honest and get it via Championship.
I used the cheat because I thought the ways to unlock the Jet
Vermillion were to - set - 255 times in Championship or beat every
Grand Prix on master with every machine. These were two very
unenviable tasks that I donít have the time or the patience to do.

Anyway, on with the code:

Go to the following URL:
>> http://www.nintendo.co.jp/n08/afzj/vermil/index.html

and on the keyboard section at the very bottom of the page, enter
the name of the save you are using, then press enter (the right-hand
button for those of you who don't read Japanese). This will give you
a password. Now on the machine select screen for the Grand Prix,
press L, R, Start, R, L, Select to enter the password screen. Now
enter your password - case sensitive - and you'll have the Jet
Vermillion. It will appear as a selectable machine above (in Grand
Prix) or to the left (in Practice) of the Hot Violet.

Note: this will only work for your name, and once you have done
this, it can not be undone without deleting your save game file.

Thanks to the F-Zero: Maximum Velocity Secrets File (written by John
Riccardi - madoushi@raverpants.com) at GameFAQís for revealing this
code to me.



           If you have got a glitch or seen something that was
           crazy in F-Zero, then e-mail me: wheels128@ignmail.com.

1. You may have noticed that on Queen 2 - the Plummet Circuit with
so many jumps - the slow machines never seem to make the jumps. Yet
they always come back ,only to keep missing the jumps. It gets even
worse, though, because once I had a mid-air collision with the J.B.
Crystal on lap one, and he didnít make it, because I saw that
machine ďdisappear in a flash of lightĒ. However, he rammed me into
the wall just before a jump on lap five. I failed to make the jump
due to my loss of speed, and had to redo the course. Why then, when
youíre knocked off the course do you have to redo it when the CPU
machines donít? Or why donít they just stay dead when they are

More coming soon...



Whatís the point of Ranking passwords?
Ranking passwords are a way of comparing F-Zero gamers worldwide in
a best-of-the-best, world championship idea, without having to hold
a massive tournament somewhere in Japan or the USA, where no-one
from outside that country would attend.

How do I get my passwords?
To get your code, enter the Rankings screen, choose a class, then
choose your name, and choose the track you want to know the code
for. Now hold L, and then press Up, Right, Right, B, Left, B, Right,
A. The tracks subtitle (e.g. Stretch Circuit, Ultimate Circuit)will
change into a code. This is your ranking password for that course.

Where do I use my password?
At the official Japanese Nintendo site, you can insert your password
along with some details about yourself in their form at the bottom
of this page:

>> http://www.nintendo.co.jp/n08/afzj/kiroku/index.html

This page is also where those fast times are shown, which are very,
very quick. Some of those times I think are impossible for the
average gamer to get close to.



F-Zero links and other gaming sites

My Site: fzc.cjb.net
F-Zero Central will be the home of F-Zero racing on the internet
when itís finished - look for it by mid-September.

F-Zero: Maximum Velocity Players Site: surf.to/fzeromv
The place for you to send your fast times and talk F-Zero.

FzeroX - groups.yahoo.com/group/fzerox
F-Zero X is still popular, judging by the amount of people who use
this group. This is the playerís site for F-Zero X

F-Zero Advance Microsite: www.gameboy.com/fzeroadvance
A pretty poor effort by Nintendo for the site - they could have done
a lot better. But itís the OFFICIAL SITE for the game.

Nintendo Japan - F-Zero Advance: www.nintendo.co.jp/n08/afzj/kiroku/
Nintendo of Japan has heaps of information - but itís in Japanese.

Also check the following gaming sites:

  > games.ign.com - great resource for all consoles
  > gamefaqs.com - ultimate place for faqís and guides
  > nintensity.com - the best gamecube site on the internet
  > gamespot.com - another good general gaming site


11.0   CREDITS

Iíve probably left out everyone important, but here goes:

Thanks to everyone who wrote an faq on F-Zero (John Riccardi, Hylian
Hero, Phil Armstrong, Darren@everden.com and everyone else Iíve
forgotten), Nintendo and everyone at Nintendo for bringing out such
a great game, Christian Miller, Wes McKinney, Dave Crawford, and
everyone else who is/was involved in the F-Zero players site. Thanks
also to gamefaqs.com for being a great host of message boards and
guides/faqís/walkthroughs for all games on all consoles.

And most of all, thanks to you, the gamers, who support the F-Zero
series and who read my guide.



Version 1.0 - began the guide. Itís quite extensive and took me a
              while to complete.

Version 1.1 - I will have more conclusive track guides, that cover
              everything you need to know on each course. I may have
              a guide for the Silence Open C course as well.

              A translation guide for those who imported the game from
              Japan will also be included in the next version.

Want to see something else covered?
Then E-mail me: wheels128@ignmail.com