Smoke hangs thick as smoldering intrigue in the steamy alley backroom in Shanghai. Tension grips as fortunes ride on the clicking ivory tiles of a game. The game? Mah Jongg-the 3000-year-old Chinese obsession of sailors, warriors, scoundrels, and kings. Brought to America in the 1920s, it lured innocent players to addiction and was banned in Philadelphia. Now the best of this game returns - as Shanghai.