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    Weapon Techniques FAQ by HYD

    Version: 1.0 | Updated: 05/04/03 | Printable Version | Search Guide | Bookmark Guide

    GameFAQs ID: Howyadoing (Hyd)
    Date Started: November 6, 2002
    Date Ended: NIL
    E-Mail: XDXDXD@gmail.com
    Since the last update, we currently have:
    January 26, 2003
    Updated the BEFORE YOU BEGIN... Section.
    Currently still in the midst.
    January 21, 2003
    Updated the General Techniques for AWP section.
    Completed it.
    Started the Basic Techniques for AWP section.
    Currently still in the midst.
    Added a BEFORE YOU BEGIN... Section.
    Currently still in the midst.
    January 19, 2003
    Updated the AWP section.
    Completed it.
    Started the General Techniques for AWP section.
    Currently still in the midst.
    Edited the Specific Weapons Section.
    Completed it.
    January 18, 2003
    Updated the shotgun portion.
    Completed it.
    Started the AWP section.
    Currently still in the midst.
    January 13, 2003
    Hey! I updated it!
    November 12, 2002
    Hmph. It didn't get uploaded. I have changed it to a specific weapon
    tactics FAQ! Do not despair! I will try again!
    November 8, 2002
    Updated a bit on the knife tactics, preparing to send this FAQ for
    reviewing by the Webmaster.
    November 6, 2002
    Yeepers! The birth! The glory!
    Especially for Counter Strike 1.5, the best FPS that has come to Earth.
    Table of Contents
    I.	Introduction
    II.	Review
    III.	Before you Begin... [UC]
    a.	Be on your Best
    b.	Know every Nook and Cranny of a map
    c.	Teamwork Is the Best
    d.	It's Just a Game
    IV.	Knife and its usage, besides stabbing of course.
    V.	Weapon Damage
    VI.	Specific Knife Tactics
    a.	To camp or not to camp?
    b.	Life points are worth more
    c.	Stealth
    d.	Superman Jump
    e.	Slash or Stab?
    f.	Sidestep or not to Sidestep?
    g.	SIDESTEP - Deeper View
    h.	Retreating
    i.	Figure Eight
    j.	Knife Rush
    VII.	Shotgun and its usage
    a.	Benelli M3
    b.	Benelli XM1014
    VIII.	Weapon Damage
    IX.	Specific Shotgun tactics
    a.	Camper's Best Friend
    b.	Move! Move! Move!
    c.	Best Sidearm?
    X.	Specific Weapons Section
    XI.	Artic Warfare/Magnum Rifle
    a.	Strengths and Weaknesses
    b.	Deeper Insight
    XII.	Artic Warfare/Magnum Rifle Techniques [UC]
    a.	Aiming (General Techniques)
    b.	Mouse Sensitivity (General Techniques)
    c.	Best Sidearm? (General Techniques)
    d.	Knife Rush (General Techniques)
    e.	Weapon Switching (General Techniques)
    f.	Killing Instinct (Basic Techniques)
    g.	Prediction (Basic Techniques)
    h.	Choosing the Right Spot (Basic Techniques)
    XIII.	Credits
    XIV.	Legal Notice
    *[UC] - Under Construction
    I.	Introduction
    Hello everyone! Welcome to my umpteenth attempt of making an FAQ and
    this time, I'm sure it will hit the GameFAQs pages. Well, let's see.
    Anyways, I'm Hyd, a friendly little boy that knows nothing of the world
    but doesn't give a flying baboon ass about it. I'm happy as what I am
    and that's what I need to know. Anyways, I'm not going to pour you over
    with my very own philosophy in looking at life. Instead, I'm going to
    show you how to use some specific weapons techniques, if you haven't
    noticed yet.
    Before I begin, I must first tell you that all these tactics doesn't
    make you win. As the old saying goes, success comes to those who never
    give up. These are just tips, and some of them may be garbage. It is
    just your personal view whether to listen to it or not. Besides, they
    may not work well towards you. I hope I'm not boring you but I have to
    settle these stuffs first before I receive flaming mails.
    Oh right, onto mails. I openly receive question about my FAQ, critics,
    but not too much. You can send me mails for whatever reason besides CS
    if you want. However, no illegal stuffs, no dirty stuffs. If you want
    to just chat, marry me, kill me, tell me off, talk about the weather,
    send me a mail and add the tag [CS: Fun]. But if you are sending me a
    mail and stating that my FAQ sucks, with no reason whatsoever, your E-
    mail address would be blocked the mail filtered and deleted. Then, I
    would then return you with the question, "Do I look like I care?"
    I'm doing a favor to you, the reader, and me, to get a life. -.- We FAQ
    writer don't get money out of this. Its just pure effort and time we
    spent on this document so if you could understand a bit and don't send
    flaming mails, you've done a good deed yourself as a wonderful reader
    and supporter. Ok, and please add a [CS] tag onto the subject so that I
    could easily track down the mail and reply as soon as possible. I get
    crap mails very often and sometimes I just delete mails that I have no
    relationship with.
    Everything okay?
    Send me critics only if you have reason to back it up.
    Attach a [CS] tag to the mail subject if you want information about CS.
    Attach a [CS: Fun] tag to the mail subject if you just want to chat.
    This guide is exclusively for Counter: Strike 1.5
    II.	Review
    The following is an extract of my personal review on Counter-Strike,
    also available on GameFAQs, Half Life Counter Strike review page.
    Counter Strike - Bang!
    Half Life boasts a mod that became a game of its own very quickly. And
    this isn't surprising because of its excellent qualities and attributes
    I will explain later on. Counter Strike is more realistic, for one
    thing and encourages teamwork and spirit between players. This is what
    makes Counter Strike stands out more than Quake III or Unreal
    Gameplay: 10
    Its excellent, this game is very fun and it takes training, a lot of
    training. However, training itself is very fun! Basically, you are
    suppose to kill, kill and kill. It's a world between Terrorists and
    Counter-Terrorists, your job? Choose one side and eliminate the other.
    No, it doesn't sound as sadistic as it sound, there's no real violence
    in it. A little bloodshed here and there, but not the entire head
    flying off. Besides, there's a command, which can disable this for
    little kids to play. But I'm a kid that isn't afraid of bloodshed and
    stuffs. I played Resident Evil since I was 10. -.-
    Audio: 10
    No background music in Counter-Strike, don't ask me why, it's obvious.
    But, the gun sounds and the radio commands make up for this. Every
    single gun has a different sound emitted when the trigger is pulled.
    And all of them are recognizable by a veteran Counter Strike player.
    Also, radio commands are clear, not muffled at all. Plus, there's a
    small dialogue between Counter Terrorists and hostages, I can't make up
    most of them but it doesn't affect the game a bit.
    Graphics: 9
    Everything is easy to see. Each gun is easy to spot and the
    surroundings are very real. However, no game is perfect and there are
    some minor flaws in between Counter Strike. One irritating thing is
    clipping. A part of your body will cut through the wall sometimes. This
    is annoying and an opposing player can just aim at that area and fire
    as if there's no tomorrow. Needless to say, you're toast if a gun with
    high caliber bullets is fired straight at you. However, despite of
    that, many other attributes of the game cover that small flaw. There
    are also small gaps with shadows covering it and a smart player can
    just sit squat there. Basically, you can see the others but others will
    have difficulty spotting you. This is an art, a technique that will
    rack high your kills.
    Story: 1
    No story involved, not surprising, no tragedy. Small information about
    the map is displayed at the start, but nobody gives it a damn. Besides,
    it doesn't affect the game at all. It's just additional information
    that can be ignored if you want.
    Replayability: 10
    No matter whether you lose or win, you'll definitely want to get
    another round. One round only lasts about 4 minutes, average of 2
    minutes a round! You will definitely not get a kick of it, and you may
    want to take revenge, or kill that fool again. *Evil Laugh* Well, have
    Buy Or Rent?: BUY
    If you were a great fan of FPS and loves realistic games, I would urge
    you to get this. It's very realistic as many gun facts and laws of
    physics are applied here. Even if you don't give a flying baboon ass
    about education, it would be fun thrashing your little brother's over
    and over again. ^.^
    III.	Before you Begin.
    Before you begin playing every CS game, bear a few points.
    Get your worries out of the window. Finish your homework. You got to be
    at you best in everything you are doing. And playing CS is no
    exception. You have to in a clear state, clear mind and a heart set on
    killing your opponent. Treat CS as if it's a 'do-or-die' situation. Of
    course, there's a fine line drawn in everything. Don't be too serious
    and go and murder your enemy in real life when he humiliated you by
    stabbing you with the SEAL knife from behind. On the other hand, don't
    slack like a slug and give the attitude, 'if I die, I die then.'
    IV.	Knife and its usage (Besides stabbing of course)
    Obviously, you must have known that the knife is free. It's the
    lightest and one of the most dangerous weapons when used properly.
    Firstly, never underestimate this piece of melee weapon. The most basic
    feature of this little blade is that it's the lightest weapon in the
    game. So, if someone is carrying a Para, and you'd better hope it's a
    newbie. Reason? Easy, you can destroy and humiliate him with this handy
    blade. Okay, maybe you don't get it. But if this weapon is the lightest
    weapon in the game, and if you are equipped with it, what would you be?
    You'd be the fastest user in the map obviously.
    And since the Para is the heaviest and one of the most useless weapon
    in the game, and with the killer recoil, you can be sure you should be
    able to figure-eight him and send a sadistic stab down his spine. Or
    better still, his neck and finish him off with a little help from your
    secondary or a fast knife stab.
    Secondly, the knife has two kinds of attack. Hope you figured out that
    already. The left click, assuming you are right handed, is the fast
    knife stab. It's definitely your best choice if you are face-to-face to
    an enemy. It deals lesser damage, obviously, and you should be able to
    do a second time before being spotted. Basically, it's a better choice
    in up close and personal battles. If you managed to sneak up to an
    enemy, and maybe get closer you may want to choose to use the right
    click attack. The right click initiates a sadistic stab. With that, you
    plunge the knife deep into the flesh of the enemy. Taking about 50+ or
    60+ HP. That's a lot, you're dealing more damage than a USP. When
    there's an up, there's always a down. And that's the problem with the
    sadistic stab; it takes a second to restart the attack. So, after doing
    the damage, you are best to retreat back to your hiding place or
    hurriedly figure eight to prepare for bloodshed. Alternatively, you
    could say your prayers and pray that your enemy doesn't realize it.
    It's a one in a millionth chance though.
    Thirdly, the knife is one of shortest weapon in the game. That's a
    relief to campers with the Colt M4A1, better known as the killing
    Carbine. You see, the Carbine has this annoying feature of its
    extremely long barrel and silencer. So, if you camp behind a crate or
    something and you're that extremely unlucky to have the tip of your
    Carbine popping out, you're toast. A smart camper or backstabber will
    choose to switch to their knife and hide while waiting for their victim
    to walk by.
    Fourthly, the knife plays an important part in fire-and-run tactics.
    This works extremely well with sneaky Arctic users. They fire, switches
    to their knife hopefully jamming the enemy's head with a .338 bullet
    and run to hide again while re-chambering their gun. A variation could
    be used with the Benelli M3, but I'm not sure. Basically, its just a
    weapon that many switch to when they are planning to retreat and run.
    At the start of each round, no matter terrorists or counter-terrorists,
    they would buy the weapons of their choice and switch to their knife.
    Many newbies laugh at them, going knife-frenzy, what they do not know
    is that these people are actually pros and are using the knife to reach
    to the key point of the map as soon as possible. This achieved easily
    due to the lightness of the knife.
    Also, some side note, the knife was one deadly weapon in the early BETA
    days. If you aim the head, 2 slashes with the normal attack would kill.
    I reckon one, but just to be sure. 3 slashes would kill an enemy
    The knife is the lightest weapon in the game. If you're equipped with
    it, you will run like the wind.
    There are 2 kinds of attack with the knife, the normal slash and the
    sadistic stab. The slash does lesser damage but have faster recovery
    time. The sadistic stab does more damage but have lesser recovery time.
    When camping, switch to your knife for a more secure position.
    Switch to your knife when using the Arctic to ensure faster re-
    Switch to your knife and run to the key point of the map at the start
    of the round.
    V.	Weapon Damage
    Through hard work, I managed to get a bot to stab me with a sadistic
    stab and the normal stab. Don't laugh. Okay, here's the slight table.
    Damage Part: Normal Stab Damage; Sadistic Stab Damage
    Head: 50+; KILL
    Body: 15-20; 48-52
    Legs: 10-15; 60-65
    I have no idea why the sadistic stab does more damage to the legs than
    to the arms. But after checking with other FAQs, it seems that my
    report is correct. Weird eh?
    Now's for damage with Kevlar vest and helmet.
    Head: 45-50; 55-60
    Body: 12-15; 40-45
    Legs: 10-15; 50-55
    There. The helmet apparently helps reducing damage a lot. Maybe I made
    a mistake, but oh well.
    Always aim for the head, 'nuff said.
    If you're a level lower than the enemy, use the sadistic stab at their
    If you're a level higher, by all means use the sadistic stab at their
    head, obviously.
    VI.	Specific Knife Tactics
    Okay, I know this section is pretty lame. But you would be surprised;
    there are some tactics for knife matches. Speaking of knife matches,
    you may have never experienced them before. Whatever it is, a knife
    match is basically a match where only knives and armors are allowed.
    Sometimes, a match may allow grenades. Knife matches are never serious;
    these matches are basically to have fun. But, to lose a knife match is
    pretty humiliating. But I'm here to help you, I hope.
    To use the knife properly, you must bear in mind its strengths and
    Lightest weapon, you'd be the fastest user when equipped.
    No recoil, for obvious reasons. This means you can slash and stab away
    as if there's no tomorrow.
    99.9% accuracy at all times. If you aim before you slash, you should
    get the target.
    You also have unlimited Ammo, for obvious reasons yet again.
    Short range, and I mean really short range. You have virtually no
    chance against any of the rifles at long range.
    The one weakness is enough to ruin your day. Against an Arctic user,
    you have basically not a single percent of chance, no fraction, of
    surviving. Even a shotgun have 5 percent or so, but with a knife, zero.
    However, against mad recoil rifles with stupid users, you stand a great
    chance. You're fast, you have supreme accuracy, you have no recoil and
    you hold a weapon stronger than the USP. Yes, bear that in mind. It
    will keep your spirits up. You are holding a weapon that is lighter
    than the USP, but more powerful. I know its lame but it helps sometime.
    And it gives you a good laugh.
    On one-on-one matches, you may choose to camp if you're on the
    defending side. However, if a player chooses to play a die-or-die kind
    of match, you have no choice but to charge. However, you can resort
    into a sneakier way of charging. But, I'll first explain basic
    Life Points are worth more in Knife Matches
    In knife matches, life points are worth a lot. If you lost ten life
    points, you are one slash short. This means you are easier to get
    killed. This doesn't apply only to knives; rifles and other guns apply
    too. However, it just seems more important in knife matches. Maybe it's
    because of the reputation on the stake. Don't be lazy; take the longer
    and safer route. Remember, it's always the slow and steady who wins the
    race. Don't blow up stuffs for no apparent reason as well. You'll get
    killed easily.
    I can't stress this point anymore. Stealth is VERY important in knife
    matches, it's also VERY important in normal matches. In one-on-one,
    it's SO important, your life is on it. Don't go around acting like a
    lunatic hacking away glasses at CS_ASSAULT. Don't be stupid and slash
    the wall. You're giving yourself away. Don't run too often; walk when
    it's nearer to the prone areas where your enemy might be lurking around
    the corner. Don't slash stuffs that will blow up when you overdo it.
    Its pointless and you get deducted life points AND you give yourself
    away. CROUCH and WALK when climbing ladders. Yes, using your pinkie to
    touch the buttons won't hurt too much. It doesn't slow you a bit and it
    reduces the sound to a zip. In addition to that, you get a smaller leap
    when you reached the top. Rather than dropping down and plunging to
    your death, and get more life points deducted. All these add to your
    survivability percentage chance in this match. So, keep stealthy and
    act like a ninja. But don't act like on too often, remember that this
    is the new millennium.
    Superman Jump
    If your resort to camping, camp in somewhere where an enemy can go past
    you and you're relatively a higher level. I know it sounds kind of a
    superman style, hence the name. Back to the technique, when an enemy
    passes by you, jump on him and go on stabbing away. The key of a knife
    match is to save as much life as possible. Never waste unnecessary life
    points. The moment you jump on him, you should be able to hack away a
    good 20-30 amount of life. This means that you are a few slashes ahead
    of him. After getting his attention, go on with the assault techniques
    and finish him off. You have advantage, remember. One more point, don't
    act as if you ARE superman. Don't leap off the top of the building just
    to get hands on the enemy. You may be dead before you even touch down
    on the floor safely. Hide somewhere where you are certainly sure you
    won't deduct much or none life points when you jump off and hit the
    Slash or Stab?
    It depends on the situation. If you are able to sneak up on the enemy,
    by all means stab. If you can reach it so close, stab his head. He's a
    goner. If it's a figure eight match, slash away. Sometimes, you may wan
    to move towards the enemy and you might be lucky to get a stab in and
    hurry retreat back. In fierce up close and personal matches, and I mean
    REALLY close, crouch and aim the crosshair at his head and STAB. If
    your aim is true, he should be dead. If its not, you should be dead by
    then. However, if you're not, slash. He should be down in one or two
    more slashes.
    Sidestep or Not to Sidestep?
    If you're up against a player that isn't using a knife, sidestep for
    goodness sake. If you're against a player that is using an Arctic or
    any sniping weapon, RUN. If you're up against a player using a knife,
    don't sidestep, FIGURE EIGHT. I'll explain each point as we go along.
    Sidestep is basically moving left and right without turning at all. So,
    you're just moving like a crab. Some people call sidestepping strafing,
    but from the dictionary, strafing means attacking an area from higher
    ground or something like that. That's why I don't call it strafing, its
    sidestep. What does it help then? Sidestepping makes you a harder
    target to attack. However, this is not recommended with all guns. Some
    guns are heavy and impede your movement. Others are light enough, like
    the MP5 Navy and sidestepping is allowed to maintain your accuracy from
    going to wild. However, sidestepping with an Ak-47 just doesn't click.
    The recoil is bad enough already. With you sidestepping, it makes the
    bullet goes haywire. So, only sidestep when you have a weapon that has
    great accuracy, low recoil and light. Submachine guns fall in here
    mostly, though shotguns too. But if you are sidestepping with a shotgun
    and attacking the other player, you should be in trouble.
    There are different methods of retreating, but they fall in two broad
    categories. One kind is firing while retreating, while the other is
    retreating totally. The second kind is more cowardly, but it saves your
    life. Also, people have the tendency of jumping while moving backwards
    and firing at your target. If you are the attacker, you are getting a
    frag, for sure. Why? Jumping pulls down your accuracy by a great deal
    of amount. If you jump and fire, there's virtually not much chance of
    hitting the target. Your bullets go higher, lower, or more to the left,
    right and all kinds of direction. So, what should you do? Jump and run
    that's the best tactic. However, don't go jumping around Arctic users.
    Smart and crafty players may aim and predict your landing, and then
    they will pull the trigger. God knows when you'll die. Also, its good
    to sidestep and run, mixing a couple of jumps in between. That way,
    people would be totally confused and fire madly. This results in
    wastage of bullets. Especially to newbies with AK-47s, they will auto-
    fire, and you can be sure you'll survive. The killer recoil definitely
    swings the bullets around you.
    What's figure eight? Basically, it's just moving around the opponent
    like an arc in the eight. If you can't picture it, it's like
    surrounding the enemy while moving around him. This has a great effect.
    Normally, the enemy will use the mouse and turn one round with you.
    Generally, he would be slower as he isn't moving horizontally and
    vertically. You should be faster due to momentum. In addition to that,
    you are carrying a knife; you are surely faster than the opponent.
    However, up against veterans, they may have the same bright idea and
    figure eight as well. In this kind of situation, you are actually
    opposite your opponent and he is chasing you, and you are chasing him
    in a merry-go-round kind of style. If you are using a gun, you should
    aim slightly opposite to the direction you are moving. IE, you are
    moving right, you should aim a little to the left to ensure that the
    bullets will compensate to the figure eight.
    Knife Rush
    This tactic is best used in ordinary matches as it gives you a good
    chance of slipping away from your enemy and making his aiming go
    disorderly. To cut a long story short, it's basically changing whatever
    primary or secondary weapon you are currently equipped with, to your
    knife. After you've done that, sidestep and move forward towards your
    enemy. In ordinary cases, the enemy will smirk and think they will get
    an easy frag.
    Well, think again.
    When you're doing the sidestepping, you are making him aim more
    vigorously. Left, then right, then left again. A higher chance of him
    missing is definitely obvious. Once you achieved that level, quickly
    switch to your primary or secondary and finish him off. There, as easy
    as that. In knife matches, this confuses the enemies a bit. After that,
    the enemy should retrace his steps and retreat, or figure eight in
    front of you to enter battle.
    VII.	Shotgun and its usage
    If you just started Counter Strike, which I seriously doubt, you should
    at least know that there are two kinds of shotgun. The Benelli M3 and
    the XM1014. For honor, I would suggest that you stick to the Benelli M3
    for one simple reason: people loathe users who use the automatic
    shotgun, which is the second one. I'll explain in detail.
    Name of Gun: Benelli M3
    Cost of Gun: $1700
    Maximum Ammo: 8
    Ammo Type: 12 Gauge
    Special Options: None
    The Benelli M3 is intended for skillful users. Users who have refined
    their skills to such a standard that they are very sneaky, and can
    crawl up to your back without you knowing before pumping a shot or two
    into your back. At close range, the Benelli M3 is ONE lethal weapon. If
    you get a shot at point blank, no matter where you hit, you are
    guaranteed a frag. However, this is different at long range. The reason
    is twofold, the Benelli M3, and the XM1014 uses gauge bullets. Gauge
    bullets are also known as shotgun shells. To cut a long story short,
    each shell consists of 12 smaller pellets, hence the name. So, if you
    can get the 12 pellets concentrated, packed together at one opponent's
    chest, you are easily getting a frag. See the picture? However, if you
    are against an opponent at long range, and you fire at him, the pellets
    soon separate, and get further and further from each other. Thus, maybe
    only 1 or none of the pellets hit. Even if all the pellets hit, you are
    not guaranteed a frag because of concentration power. In close range,
    the force is greater and so is the impact. In further range, everything
    decreases. To sum everything up, a shotgun is useless in long range.
    Also, the Benelli M3 has a snail-speed rate of fire. Typically, you
    only get 1 shot before an angry victim of the other side mow you down
    with whatever weapon he has. Sadly, that's the price a shot gunner has
    to pay.
    Name of Gun: Benelli XM1014
    Cost of Gun: $3000
    Maximum Ammo: 7
    Ammo Type: 12 Gauge
    Special Options: Only auto-fire shotgun
    The XM1014 is loathsome, but powerful. Under a really skillful shot
    gunner that has no form of honor, the XM1014 is very powerful. All
    thanks to its auto-fire ability, now you are a walking tank. Pumping 12
    gauge bullets into many chests in mere spilt seconds are irritating to
    many, and some may despise you when you use it. You may think that you
    are winning, but in many other people eyes, you are just a newbie that
    has no form of skill. The XM1014 is commonly known as the gun for the
    unskilled. However, since it is a gun, I might else well discuss about
    it. The XM1014 costs a bomb, $3000! I would rather go for an AK-47
    anytime, any day. On the other hand, the extra $1300 has to be for
    something right? Yes, you are correct. It is for something that is
    really important. The auto-fire ability has been inserted into this
    gun, making it the scariest close-range weapon, for a while. What do I
    mean for a while? Well, in a typical scene, one guy will charge in the
    middle of the fray in the battle, pumping about 2-3 shots killing one
    guy. Someone jumps on him, and gets killed by another 2-3 shots. Okay,
    time to round it up, reload. This is YOUR chance to resist. Reloading
    in the shotguns takes eons. Now, charge him and finish him off. Take
    wary though, as the pump action allows the user to use a shot while
    reloading. You may suffer some damage unless you attack from far. Good
    job, you just rid the world from another pesky unskilled user.
    Okay good, so that sums up the different shotguns. Now back to its
    typical usage of shotguns. But before I begin the small talk, I want to
    stress that I'm doing this based on my research on the Benelli M3, so
    it may be quite inaccurate if you use these theory and apply it to the
    Benelli XM1014. Whatever it is, use the M3 trust me. You'll be better
    First up, at $1700, you can don't spend any money on the first round.
    Just charge with your USP or Glock can get maybe one frag and die. Or
    maybe, you can camp and pray that your team wins. Either way, just to
    try not to spend more than $400 on the first round. In case your team
    loses, you still have $1400, and if you followed my rules, you will
    have at least $1800, enough to get a shotgun plus some additional
    shells. After that, you're off!
    Secondly, the shotgun archetype is a light weapon. Perhaps the lightest
    archetype of weapon second to the pistols, and the knife obviously. So,
    with this shotgun, you should charge straightway and find a key camping
    spot. After finding it, squat and wait for footsteps. Don't camp in a
    tunnel and facing your opponent directly, try to camp sideways and out
    of view. This is to ensure that if the opponent passes you, they have
    to TURN, and fire. In the spilt second of the turning of your opponent,
    your job is to fire a critical shot and hopefully, kill him. If not,
    you are in for some payback. You're gonna get mow down by whatever
    weapon he uses. If it's an Arctic, prays he misses and in the second he
    re-chambers, pump a shot in. However, smart and crafty users will
    change to their secondary and kill you. Oh well. If you camp in a
    tunnel facing your opponent, you will die. You see, when the opponent
    sees you, you fire. He fires, and continues to fire. Basically, he has
    the advantage of catching you off-guard, whereas if you hide in a fork,
    you have the advantage if he turns around. Better still, he may not
    even notice you! If that's the case, chase him and pump a few shots.
    You may even have time to shoot two times!
    VIII.	Weapon Damage
    Shotgun weapon damage is basically depending on how far you are, and
    how many gauge shots hit the target. If you are near, and most of the
    small pellets hit the target, you are guaranteed higher damage over
    someone who is far away, and only 1-2 pellets hit. Depending on
    whatever the situation is, here's the breakdown. Note that this is my
    estimation. It is not really foolproof, but I think I got some parts
    correctly done.
    To make things simpler, I have to break the results into range
    Close Range:
    (From point blank, to about couple of steps in front of you.)
    Simple enough, a headshot with any of the shotguns kills. At this
    range, it will take one shot from the M3 and two shots from the XM1014
    to kill. It's easy to get the frag here for the auto-shotgun. However,
    the M3 requires you to perfect your aim.
    Medium Range:
    (Maximum efficiency for the shotguns.)
    At this range, you'll have to charge towards the enemy and fire the
    shots. Most shots would do 30 damage each, so it isn't very useful.
    Your best bet would be hiding and wait for a better chance.
    Long Range:
    This is extremely far. Imagine you on one end on the awp_map and
    someone on the other end. That's the long range. With a shotgun,
    there's nothing you can do. One shot will merely do less than 10
    damage. It's good for irritating the enemy, but there's nothing happier
    for the enemy to mow you down with their rifles.
    A shotgun is best used up close and personal
    Long-range attacks are NEVER recommended
    Shotguns are lethal at close range, and I mean LETHAL
    IX.	Specific Shotgun Tactics
    The shotgun is one lethal weapon at close range but next to useless in
    medium or long range. Bear that in mind always when you use this
    Camper's Best Friend?
    If you are hiding behind the door, or basically crouching at a place
    where the enemy is sure to pop up closely to you, there's nothing
    better than a shotgun to complete the picture. However, it's easier
    said than done. The shotgun is lethal under the hands of a specialist.
    You have to learn how to aim, and when to fire. Let's talk about aiming
    first. For the shotgun, it would be best to aim around the general
    chest or neck section. The reason is twofold. The shotgun fires 12
    shells at one time, which disperses pellets towards the enemy. 12
    shells is a huge number, and you need to fire it where the surface area
    is large enough for 12 shells to fit in. The best would be the neck and
    the chest area. Some pellets would hit the torso, and some would hit
    the head. Majority of them would be targeted at the chest and this is
    good enough. If you are behind the enemy, aim at his back and fire.
    Now, we'll talk about patience. Being a camper is all about patience.
    Sometimes, you might think that the enemy is not coming. Then, you get
    up and start to walk into the area where you supposedly think the enemy
    would come. What do you know? The enemy is right there. If you had
    waited for three more seconds, you would have mowed him down. Now,
    you're toast. Also, if one enemy walks past you, still leaving you
    unnoticed, wait for a moment. If you cannot hear anymore footsteps
    beside the first enemy, go ahead and slaughter him. However, some would
    walk. So just wait for a while. If no enemy appears, get your kill. If
    you are really cautious about getting the frag, you can blow the brains
    of the first enemy, and pray that you can blow the second one before he
    gets you. Chances are, you'll be dead.
    Move! Move! Move!
    The shotgun is a light weapon. Even lighter than some sub-machine guns.
    So, charge right into your camping area as soon as you start the round.
    You could knife rush for a while, then switch to your shotgun just in
    case some sonic-speed enemy gets there faster than you. And NEVER
    switch weapon when you are using your shotgun whilst walking. You may
    be caught off guard, and get killed.
    Best Sidearm?
    The ideal sidearm for the shotgun, for me, is the USP Tactical Pistol.
    I don't trust the Desert Eagle because, just because of its incredibly
    small magazine size. Some people can easily wipe out someone with 7
    bullets. Well, sorry to burst your bubble, I can't. But, with 12
    bullets and about  less power than the Deagle, no problem at all. CTs
    should just stick to their default sidearm, and maybe Ts can buy a USP.
    However, you can stick to the Glock if you want. Switch on the Burst
    Fire mode if you are camping, and switch to full-auto if you're not.
    The process is like this. Fire with your shotgun, and if he doesn't
    dies, switch to your Glock and fire one time in burst-fire mode. If
    your aiming isn't as bad as my three year old nephew, you should do
    fine. You should always make a habit to change to your sidearm whenever
    X.	Specific Weapon Sections
    The following sections will be dedicated to the weapons, which I will
    describe them thoroughly and show you all the techniques I know about
    them. Personally, these are my favorite weapons I love to use during
    game play. This means, if I love any more weapons, I may include them
    in this guide. In this current version, there are these weapons I will
    talk about.
    A.	Artic Warfare/Magnum
    B.	AK-47
    C.	Colt M4A1 Carbine
    D.	Steyr AUG/Bullpup
    E.	MP5 Navy
    All these weapons can be found when you continue reading the guide.
    X.	Artic Warfare/Magnum Rifle
    Ah...the Artic Warfare rifle, dubbed the AWP or AWM. It's definitely
    the most powerful gun in the game. Note that I said powerful, not
    perfect. Why do I say that? The AWP (I prefer calling it this way) has
    a destructive .388 bullet. When this bullet hits anywhere in your body
    except the leg area, you are history. That's how powerful it is.
    However, when there's an up, there's definitely a down. The AWP has
    countless flaws overly watered down over and over again by the CS team
    because of its one-shot kill ability. They should stop the downgrading
    right now. The AWP isn't as powerful as it is back in the early days.
    And if you're asking why did I dedicate one whole section to this
    rifle, the answer is that I simply love this gun.
    Some say it's a no-skill gun, but every gun in the game takes skills.
    Even the automatic shotgun. Yeah, I hate it, but I got to admit that it
    does take skill. I shall list down the strength and weaknesses of this
    gun now.
    One shot-kill ability
    Single & Double Scope, making it a Sniper Rifle
    Dragshot Ability, exclusive to Sniper Rifles
    Now for the nightmare.
    EXPENSIVE. It costs 4750 bucks!
    Heavy. Second heaviest gun.
    Horrendous accuracy without the scope, unlike the Steyr Scout.
    And now, I shall discuss every single point.
    One-Shot Kill.
    Yep. It's that scary. If you get a shot anyway except the legs, that
    guy's toast. However, it can be countered if you jump. Every now and
    then, the opposing sniper might either miss or hit your legs. That's
    about it.
    Single & Double Scope.
    This makes it a sniper rifle. Kinda obvious, but thanks to this add-on
    ability, this is where you get all your frags from. Logically, one
    would scan the area with his naked AWP or the AWP with a single scope.
    Once he spots the enemy, he should move on to double scope and finish
    him off. Try not to fire in single scope, the accuracy is still not
    perfect. Always move on to double scope, then either aim, click or
    The art of dragshot is what makes sniper rifle useful. In this ability,
    you move into the scope view, then search for the enemy. Once you find
    him, let's say he sidestepped to the left. The sniper would jerk his
    mouse to the left, and the scope aims to the person and he fires. This
    happens very quickly. Occasionally, or if the sniper is a specialist,
    that guy should be shot. Sometimes, accuracy is not that good and the
    shot may not be made. Thus, always practice and train.
    Unless you win the first 2 rounds, you won't get it until the third or
    forth round. And, it would be very depressing to lose the rifle on the
    round where you bought it. You have 2 solutions to this. Either you
    forgo your first 2 rounds and just camp, or you pick up someone's AWP
    and get a couple of wins. The second option is normally better.
    Scavenge if you must, there's no dishonor in it.
    Always knife rush, or pistol rush if you want to the location you want
    to cover with your sniper rifle. People normally switch between rifle
    and grenade during re-chambering, but I always say pistol. In case
    someone pops out, you still have something to protect you. If you are
    firing extremely long range, you can use your grenade if you want.
    Conclusion, always switch to your pistol when you want to move from one
    location to another. During sniper fights, use your grenade.
    Horrendous Accuracy.
    Trust me! Crouch and fire a couple of bullets to the wall. You'll see
    that the shots are completely random. If you walk and fire, it's even
    worse. Thus, if there's a need to, always crouch then fire.
    This can be countered with a grenade when switching weapons. The rifle
    would be silent. This depends on how fast you switch the weapons
    though. However, if the opponent is a veteran CS player, he can still
    recognize the faint sound of the AWP. Whatever it is, your job is to
    ensure that this will be the final time he heard it. In other words,
    silence him in one shot.
    XI.	Artic Warfare/Magnum Techniques
    Welcome all to the meat of the FAQ. Here, you'll witness the special
    killing techniques of the AWP. But first, we'll have to go through the
    basics. Everything got to start somewhere right?
    The general techniques section will show you the skills which you have
    to master before advancing any further into the advanced techniques.
    These are basic, and without these, you'll get nowhere. Let's get
    started then!
    The rule of the thumb is to aim at the chest area. Since the chest is
    the biggest part of a CS skin, that makes it the easier part to hit.
    Bear in mind that any AWP bullet that hits the chest is a kill. It
    defies whether the opponent wears a Kevlar or not. Don't bother getting
    a headshot; you'll do over 150+ damage already. I had experiences from
    playing at Xstat.net. At that server, they will show you how much
    damage the opponent has inflicted on you when you die. Once, I got
    headshot by an AWP bullet. Then, they stated, "Blah blah blah did 163
    damage to you with a headshot using the AWP." One word: Overkill.
    Mouse Sensitivity
    A lot of people question about this option. Do you aim better with
    lower sensitivity or higher? It totally depends on your aiming skill,
    but I'll say higher. The sensitivity range is from 1-20. I took 7. It's
    a comfortable range for me to jerk the mouse and get the kill. If you
    take 4, it's too low. 16 is overkill, you'll have problem aiming. 7-10
    is a comfortable range.
    Best Sidearm?
    Again, it depends on your personality and skill. Do you spray like a
    maniac and pray that you get a shot? Or do you aim before you shoot and
    do it well? For most of us, we take the USP. Others took the Desert
    Eagle. These two pistols are the most popular choices of many AWP-ers.
    The USP has immense speed and reasonable ammunition. The Desert Eagle
    has sheer power and deadly accuracy. Plus, the Deagle can punch through
    walls and doors to a certain extend. The USP has the silencer if you
    are going sneaky. And if you are wondering, both pistols can kill with
    a headshot.
    Knife Rush
    Ever wondered how your teammates seem to get to the destination faster
    than you do? Of course! You're holding an AWP! The second heaviest gun
    in the game! So, whenever the round starts, get an AWP and knife rush
    to the area where you want to cover. It's that simple.
    Weapon Switching
    The AWP has a long re-chambering time. For the unenlightened, it's the
    part where your hand pushes the bolt of the rifle and you get your zoom
    scope back again. To counter this long time, and maybe to retreat, many
    people switch to another weapon after they made the shot. The weapon
    that they switch to plays a part as well. The knife is never
    recommended, the pistols make a better replacement. Why? The pistol is
    a little bit heavier than the knife, but it can protect you if anything
    unexpected happens. Some choose the grenades. That's not a bad choice.
    However, if you are intending to make that shot silent, you have to
    switch back to your AWP. But, assuming you hit the leg of an opponent,
    hurl your HE grenade right away. If your aim is true, you should get a
    HE Frag.
    If you have accomplished all those above techniques, move on to the
    basic techniques. Over here, you'll learn the easiest way to kill an
    opponent using your AWP. One shot is all that it takes. Remember that
    Basic techniques are really simple. But nobody turns a killing machine
    overnight, and these techniques must be practiced over and over again
    to achieve the fullest potential each technique has to offer. Read on.
    Killing Instinct
    The attitude you have in your mind must be fast and furious. There is
    no 'giving chance' in CS. If you give chance, you'll be dead before you
    even know it. Strike fast and quick, and silence the enemy in one
    perfect shot. To hone your skills, you need to be in your best both
    physically and mentally. No point playing CS and hope you'll get tons
    of frags if your big Maths paper is coming tomorrow. Your mind would be
    pulled down with worries of the upcoming Maths paper, and the
    consequences if you never prepare for it. Always be in a mind that is
    totally cleansed, and all that is in your mind is one thing. And that
    is to win. There's no way you can do to improve this technique. Maybe
    some of you may suggest meditating. It may work for some people. But
    for the majority of us, let's just finish what worries us most. The
    housework, homework and stuffs like that. If you have a sprain in your
    arm, shoulder or neck, don't bother playing. You won't be at the
    fullest form. Bottom line; be at your best every time you play a game.
    The most basic stuff you have to do before you even begin a playing a
    map, any map. You have to know every nook and cranny of that particular
    map. Be sure to go into spectator mode if you don't. Familiarize with
    the surroundings. Check where the bombsites/hostages are. Where does
    the CT spawn? Where does the T spawn? Where do the T and CT meet up for
    the big bloodshed? For example, in dust, the big bloodshed battle is
    normally in the tunnel. Know every camping spot and backstabbing
    places. Know where your enemy goes, and then begin predicting. Let's
    take dust for example again. If you're a CT, you can storm into the
    primary bombsite (Not your base) and then take a sneak peek into the
    tunnel exit there. Normally, Ts rush out to get the bomb planted. Your
    job is to blow their bodies apart with your AWP before they even
    stepped foot into the bombsite. However, prediction is universal. A T
    could be camping at that shadowy area on the other end of the tunnel.
    Once you poke your head into his view, you're history. The easiest
    countering method to this situation is to make variation to the places
    you always go. Sometimes you go from the other exit and sometimes you
    go from that exit. Don't stick to the same old boring move. Remember,
    you can't pull a same trick twice in a row.
    Choosing the Right Spot
    Sniping isn't as easy as ABC. You have to calculate and take note of
    many factors. I shall list some of them here.
    Is it useful to the team?
    No point camping at an area, which has low traffic. You want to get
    frags, and aid your team with your AWP support. Even if you can't aim
    and shoot well, the sound of your rifle may scare some of the
    opposition and cause them to retreat.
    Does it have obstacles to help/ruin you?
    Some obstacles are irritating and block your view. However, while
    blocking your view, the obstacle is actually helping you in providing
    some extra form of shield. Do take note that rifles and the Desert
    Eagle can punch through weak obstacles though. Also, you may want to
    surprise the opponent behind the obstacle. Like jumping out suddenly,
    or maybe flattening yourself on the crate and pray that the opponent
    walks by without noticing you. Whatever it is, scan your area before
    you choose it.
    Can your enemy spot you before you spot them?
    The dumbest mistake a sniper makes is to allow the enemy to scan your
    location before you can see him. This is terrible. You may even be
    sniped before you know it. To ensure this, you can either switch teams
    to double check, or go to somewhere that you are a hundred percent sure
    you have the upper hand.
    XII.	Credits
    In this section, I will list the person whom I want to thank.
    My Parents - For giving life to me, and basically helping me in my
    fourteen years of life.
    My Computer - For not cranking up and breaking down, phew, that's a
    hell lot of help already.
    CjayC - For posting this FAQ, thanks big man, for the Karma boost as
    well. =) I'm a Legend now thanks to you.
    My friends in school - For getting through boredom with me, heh, thanks
    a lot.
    My online friends - They are basically LC, Spidey and FE, for just
    chatting with me, and getting through boredom as well. Also, there are
    those few SGSB members whom I haven't mentioned, but anyways, thanks to
    all of you.
    Mochan - I've never talked to him before, but his own CS guide helped
    me a LOT. Thanks man, you are the boss.
    These are pretty much the people I want to thank, and if you want to
    enter the list above like the few people above who have done it,
    contribute a bit of information. My e-mail address can be found at the
    top of the guide.
    XIII.	Legal Notice
    This guide is written by me, and it is copyrighted 2002.
    This guide can only be found at:
    The author, me, is in no way affiliated with Sierra, Valve, or the CS
    Team in any way whatsoever. This guide is mainly written to get through
    boredom and is the sole effort and time spent by the author himself.
    The guide aim is just to provide a good laugh, or giving players a
    chance to give knife matches a shot. If you want to use this FAQ on
    your website, you'll have to contact me by the E-mail. I'm a pretty
    easygoing guy and if you contact me and ask me nicely, I would allow
    you. To use it personally for non-commercial purposes, it's OK. But
    please don't go show offing to your cousins/siblings that you wrote
    these information. I would appreciate it greatly if you do not rip me
    off. This FAQ should also NOT be used for commercial purposes, bonus
    gifts, or extra information slip for a magazine/game guides etc. It
    should also not be reproduced for commercial purposes whether
    electronically or otherwise. If you cannot follow the legal notice
    stated above, and I find you out, I'll do whatever I can to shut you
    down for good. If you're smart, do a guide yourself or ask me nicely.
    But doing a guide all by your own would be more rewarding, trust me.
    Also, if you see any obvious or glaring errors that definitely needs
    help to me mended or changed, or you would like to contribute as I
    stated above, you can contact me by E-mail:
    Or by any methods stated at the top of my FAQ.
    Final Words:
    This FAQ is last updated at January 21, 2003 on a boring Tuesday
    evening. Have a nice day.
    Here's Hyd, signing off.
    Copyright Hyd 2002-2003