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    Survival Endless Guide by Draco89123

    Version: 2.0 | Updated: 06/16/10 | Printable Version | Search Guide | Bookmark Guide

    The Ultimate Survival Endless Guide
    Written by Mike D. (Draco89123) v2.0
    Copyright 2010
    I really don't care what happens to the information presented on this page, 
    post it wherever you like.
    Any questions, comments, concerns, or if you have new ideas, new tactics, 
    or just a willingness for PvZ discussion, you can email me:
    Table of Contents
    D.1   The Layout
    D.2   The Ground
    D.3   The Pool
    D.4   The Plants
    D.5   The Zombies
    D.6   Build Practice
    D.7   Build Theory
    D.8   Build Database
    D.9   Zombie Stats
    D.0   Conclusion
    This guide is designed to give you the requisite knowledge to build your own 
    Survival Endless layout that will survive indefinitely. Whether youíre here 
    for curiosity, for fun, or for money, this guide will equip you with the 
    latest and most effective strategies known. You shall be a Survival Endless 
    master even if you come in here not knowing what this mode even is.
    This guide will be broken down according to how every build must deal with 
    the zombie pressure. Iíll be here to show you how each area of the map has 
    its own tricks up its sleeve and what answers have been given to the problems 
    presented. Like any game with varied strategy, there is always preference 
    for who wants to play what. Cob Cannons are such a dominant force in 
    Survival Endless that every build can be categorized by how many Cob Cannons
    there are. Before we go into the detail of Cob Cannons, I shall introduce 
    you to the regionalization of the map. I will be using Last Stand as an easy
    means to show theoretical concepts, because it has the exact same map 
    (Pool: Day) as Survival Endless. 
    D.1 The Layout
    The map is a 9 column by 6 row grid and youíll notice a couple of things 
    right off the bat. The map is symmetrical, therefore there is always a top 
    region corresponding to a bottom region that deals with the exact same 
    pressures but not necessarily at the exact same time. For simplicity, I 
    will refer to each as pairs. The pairs of rows in the water are referred 
    to as Pool Rows. The pairs of rows closest to the edge of the pool are 
    called Inner Rows. And finally, the outermost rows furthest from the pool 
    are Outer Rows. I do this because then you donít have to count the row to 
    figure out which Iím referring to. This is very easy to visualize.
    D.2 The Ground
    Youíll also notice thereís a region of the map not labeled. Itís the 
    front-most 2x2 square on the ground. This is that way for good reason. 
    No plant can survive there. You will find out very shortly that the primary 
    difficulty of surviving Survival Endless comes from fighting the ground forces. 
    The Zomboni, Giga, and Catapult zombies will make quick work of anything 
    placed there, even with maximum possible DPS (damage per second) from 
    Torchwood plus Gatling with Glooms helping out. 
    The corresponding brown region (column 7 counting from the left) behind the 
    death zone is reserved for highly replaceable plants, because they serve as 
    a buffer and will undoubtedly come into contact with all sorts of zombies. 
    Only put easily replaceable plants here. This area is where you would put 
    your queued up Freeze Shrooms, Spikerocks, or Fume Shrooms, but weíll leave 
    the explanations for that later.
    The orange region behind that (columns 5 and 6 counting from the left) are 
    important because they are very safe. Unless a zombie breaks your front lines, 
    these plants will see very little action. Imps are thrown over it, and 
    everything else attacks other regions before they get to this one. This is a 
    very good place for Cob Cannons because of that. It is also the best 
    determiner for how healthy your base is because this IS your main line. If 
    any of the plants in this area are compromised for long, you will have some 
    serious worrying to do.
    The green region behind that (columns 3 and 4) are no different from the 
    orange region except that they are vulnerable to Imps from the Gargantuars. 
    This restricts them from being Cob spots, but Pumpkins allow any other plant 
    to be there. The main concern of this region is what should be done to take 
    care of those Imps and the remaining spots are used toward helping out the 
    rest of the build.
    The final back region, which happens to be blue (and columns 1 and 2), has 
    very special properties because of the unique pressures it has to face. 
    Catapult zombies go directly for your 1st column of plants, so this region 
    MUST contain an Umbrella plant. The remaining 3 slots must then protect 
    the base from Digger zombies that also happen to target the 1st column. If 
    that's not enough, this area must also handle the Imps who overshoot the 
    previous green region. Weíll discuss later on how that is accomplished, but 
    now on to the pool regions.
    D.3 The Pool
    The pool is far, far simpler than the ground because of simpler zombie 
    design. Only Dolphins and Jacks will give you trouble. Notice how you can 
    plant things right up front because of the easier nature of these zombies. 
    The first region, the red (columns 8 and 9), represent the area that will be 
    directly dealing with the mass of regular zombies, but there is always the 
    constant threat of an immediate Jack explosion. The Jack steps onto the map 
    and explodes instantly after, taking out either one or both of the plants 
    in that region. Although very rare, it can happen at any time without 
    warning. This fact is very important for the 6 Gloom setup because Glooms 
    are a vital part of the buildís DPS; theyíre expensive, and take long to 
    replace. The vast majority of builds use the power of this setup; there are 
    exceptions but this regionís vulnerability is important to the survival of 
    A LOT of layouts. Weíll discuss how to deal with it in detail.
    The white region behind that (columns 5, 6, and 7) is a very stable area 
    because only Dolphins and ambush zombies (that pop from underwater at the 
    middle and end of the level) nibble at your plants. (column 7 is also safe 
    from ambush zombies) The Dolphins are the bigger threat because they waste 
    no time getting over there and getting to work. This area will require 
    constant Pumpkins most of the time.
    The backmost purple region of the pool (columns 1, 2, 3, and 4) is completely 
    and utterly safe. You will lose before these plants are compromised. They 
    donít even need Pumpkins. They serve as good Cob spots or areas to put your 
    Twin Sunflowers.
    That concludes all the regions of the map. Now letís move to the plants 
    youíre going to be putting on these regions.
    D.4 The Plants
    The design philosophy of a successful Survival Endless build involves using 
    the upgrade plants. These plants get 50 sun more expensive for every instance 
    of that plant on the field in Survival Endless, which is a unique restriction 
    for this mode. Many plants start costing 700-1100 sun at any given point. 
    People would assume that using cheaper unupgraded plants would be the way to 
    go, but the goal of using upgrade plants is to make a build so good, by 
    maximizing the effectiveness of each tile, that losing the expensive plant 
    is extremely rare.
    Offensive Plants
    Gloom Shroom:
    This is the heart and soul of ANY successful Survival build that Iíve come 
    across. The reason why we categorize builds by number of Cobs is because not 
    every build has Cobs, but every known successful build up to this point has 
    Glooms. These guys have unparalleled DPS to all the zombies within a 1 tile 
    radius of itself. With enough of these guys, everything will fall. They do 
    have a few weaknesses, though. They suffer most from the upgrade plant 
    penalty. Their price will range from 500 to 1200 sun normally because of the 
    abundance of Glooms youíll have on the field. They also have a long cooldown, 
    so they can only be built or replaced one at a time in between long intervals. 
    Donít forget that you need to wake these guys up too since itís during the 
    day, which is another 75 sun. They are also extremely vulnerable to Jacks. 
    Even though they can make quick work of Jacks once theyíre in range, the 
    Jacks can still explode when theyíre close but still alive. Jacks can take 
    out 1-2 Glooms in an instant, and are considered very dangerous for this 
    reason. Since Glooms are the bread and butter of nearly every build, the 
    survival of the build is contingent on keeping them alive. Replace as soon 
    as possible.
    Cob Cannon:
    While the Glooms are required by every build, the Cob Cannons are extremely 
    influential in how you play your build. These guys require two slots and 
    cannot use Pumpkins. So, any spot where any zombie has a decent chance 
    of nibbling on these plants will be off-limits. They can easily cost 
    1000 sun just like Glooms, have a long cooldown, and the void left by their 
    death can definitely be felt. Replace as soon as possible. They work 
    exactly like Cherry Bombs with their blast radius, which is a 3x3 area 
    centered on where you click. They also have the added benefit of having a 
    lower cooldown of ~30 seconds when the Cob lands. A lot of builds are 
    designed around the constant use of extreme force of these explosions 
    at the front of the map. They also have the benefit of being ungrabbable by 
    Bungee zombies because theyíre too big. One can come up with interesting 
    layouts to make their base less vulnerable to Bungees with this information.
    Fume Shroom: 
    This mushroom is the little cousin of the Gloom. While these do not attack 
    nearly as fast as the Gloom does, their range is a lot longer. They, like 
    their cousin, attack all units in their range, which happens to be exactly 
    the 4 tiles in front of them. This has certain advantages and complements 
    the weakness of Glooms rather beautifully. These guys are extremely useful 
    for taking out Jacks and Zombonis, in addition to adding more DPS to 
    everything in the row. Combinations of Fumes and Glooms can make you 
    immune to Jacks, which is very important as we shall see later on. They also
    have a low cost and low cooldown, which makes them easily replaceable, but 
    you do need the Coffee Bean. Their overall DPS contribution is small so 
    their priority is less.
    Melon-Pults should not be used in Survival Endless. There has been some 
    controversy over their DPS vs. Winter-Pults, but Iíve personally tested it 
    myself and Winter-Pults not only do more damage to zombies than their 
    unupgraded counterparts (unless the shot is blocked by buckets, doors, etc., 
    then itís equal), but they also provide that lovely splash snare. The snare 
    in PvZ is very useful because it is a 50% reduction of movement AND attack 
    speed. Very few builds can live without the synergy potential of snare. 
    These guys attack their row at any distance and vary their initial timing, 
    but it stays constant after that. Their impact does a sizeable amount of 
    damage (4-5) to the zombie theyíre targeting and 1 damage to everything 
    within a 1 tile radius of that impact point. It is highly recommend having 
    at least one Winter-Pult in each row (even Pool) for this reason. They all 
    do well to cover for each other. If you only have one in the row, be warned 
    that it can get distracted by landing Imps if itís too far back, or zombies
    will just naturally become unsnared by random chance. There is nothing wrong 
    with adding additional Winter-Pults to the important rows if the build 
    benefits from it.
    These guys have their place in Survival Endless, but itís not for what you 
    think. They are mainly used as buffers for Gargantuars, actually. A 
    Spikerock can take 9 swings before it dies (3 per spike) or tire pops from 
    Zomboni/Catapult zombies. They are moderately expensive and their cooldown 
    is also moderate. So theyíre replaceable but not as easily as other things. 
    Because of this restriction, you canít just wantonly place them like you 
    could in other modes. They still canít go in the death zone mentioned 
    earlier, but the brown region right next to that is where they find good 
    use. In Cob builds, they serve as a deterrent for Dancer zombies, Zombonis, 
    and Gargantuars. However, they cannot handle them alone. Theyíre only used 
    as a safety net if you make mistakes with the Cob timing. In this fashion, 
    you can actually afford the upkeep. Another interesting application of 
    Spikerocks is actually for Digger zombies. If placed in the far left column 
    where the Digger zombies pop out, they will die before they reach the next 
    plant. Itís rather nifty but I never use them that way because they do not 
    help with the Imps. You can use them for Imps too, but then they can't be 
    used for Diggers. Iíll explain in detail about this later. They also can 
    attack any and all zombies within range, ignoring shield damage, treating 
    most zombies as the 10 hp lamers that they are, which is pretty cool.
    Gatling Pea/Torchwood:
    Finally we have Fire Pea builds! These guys are really great at burning 
    down just about anything, but it's tough to push back a huge wave when 
    there's Zombonis and Screen Door zombies and Gigas to deal with. By 
    themselves, they cannot manage certain units, but with the help of Freeze 
    Shroom or Cob Cannons, there seems to be work-arounds. Their strength is 
    that they melt things. Their weakness is their inefficiency with their 
    shot. If their shot gets blocked, they suck really hard. Diggers and Imps 
    can get in the way real quick, so some players put a Split Pea in front of 
    the Torchwood to handle both the Digger and the Imps in that row, since 
    the Split peas can shoot a double fire shot backward. It contributes about 
    as much as 1 Gloom's worth of DPS to Diggers and 1.5 Glooms to Imps. Some 
    other people put Fumes in front to counter Screen Door, or Spikerock to 
    counter Giga/Zomboni. But there are still a lot more limitations to them. 
    They only damage things right up in front, and unsnare potentially 
    dangerous zombies. Unsnared Gigas are scary. You normally have to dedicate 
    an entire row to Peashooter/Torchwood, and it only seems to be viable for 
    the outer row. They serve as an alternative to Fume/Winter-Pult since 
    the bread and butter DPSer types are few and far between. They're fun 
    builds and they're useful if you want a challenge.
    That concludes the offensive plants. Youíll notice that Iíve omitted a great 
    deal of plants you normally would use in other modes. However, in Survival 
    Endless, they either do a negligible amount of damage because of their 
    single target nature, or their use is too impractical for the magnitude of 
    units youíre going to face. Now, we shall move on to the niche plants.
    Niche Plants
    The niche plants, as the name implies, serve a very specific and unique 
    function that is either required or recommended for any and all layouts. 
    Luckily there arenít too many of them.
    Umbrella Plant:
    These guys are absolutely necessary, end of story. They serve the function 
    of blocking (within a 1 tile radius of their placement) the Catapult shots,
    which ignore your Pumpkins and destroy your plants with just a couple of 
    hits. The Catapult zombie will always attack the backmost plant of its row,
    so it is required that you put an Umbrella Plant in the blue region on the 
    map (ground columns 1 or 2) because only in those spots can the Umbrella 
    reach the back. For builds where you potentially leave the back columns 
    open, it'll still attack the farthest back planted tile, so you cannot avoid 
    it. After that, Catapult zombies can be ignored. Umbrella Plants also 
    have the added bonus of blocking Bungees from stealing your plants. Aside 
    from the necessary 2, you can have additional ones in your map. Bungees are
    usually not a big threat for reasons we shall see, so itís not entirely 
    recommended. You can make interesting designs using a combination of 
    Umbrella Plants, Cob Cannons, and Gloom Shrooms to block off your valuable 
    plants from this threat.
    These guys are very useful for constructing a build before its completion, 
    also good for picking off some zombies in a significant amount, and also 
    good for helping with Digger zombies sometimes, but theyíre mainly used for
    Balloon zombie control. You need two of these Cattails to take care of air 
    indefinitely. There is another stipulation, and thatís if the Cattails are 
    too close to the front (3 tiles or less from the right edge), then they have
    a chance of letting a Balloon zombie pass. Cattails attack the closest 
    zombie to them (always air first) and continue sending lagging shots to a 
    unit until it is dead. The closer they are to their target, the less 
    downtime they have in between target switches, which means more DPS. 
    Cattails are also not necessary and as an alternative you can bring along 
    a Blover.
    Twin Sunflowers: 
    Theyíre powering your army and providing you with the currency to build your
    plants up. These should be kept in safe spots and in spots that are not very
    useful for other offensive plants. The number of Twins required will be 
    dependant on your play style. If you must make regular use of Cherry Bomb, 
    Jalapeno, Squash, and Freeze Shroom, then 5-6 will be your recommended 
    amount, because you also have to deal with Jack accidents and Pumpkins. 
    If you rely on Cobs and little use of items, you can get away with 2-4 
    Twins depending on the skill of the player and the maintenance required of 
    the layout.
    Gold Magnet:
    For those who want to use Survival Endless as a means of getting money, 
    having about 2 of these on the map gets the vast majority of coins that 
    drop. A lot of optimized Survival builds are designed for those who are way 
    past their need for money and are only it for the challenge. So, you can 
    usually take one of these builds and replace 2 of the less necessary plants 
    for Gold Magnets. Just make sure you know what youíre doing, otherwise 
    youíll find out the hard way.
    This is a no-brainer, an absolute must, and I usually forget that this is 
    even a plant. Whether or not you need the Imitater version of this depends 
    on the maintenance requirements of your build, which is the sum of your debt
    accumulated by Imp, Digger, Dolphin, and Football zombies. Jack explosions 
    and Gargantuar/Zomboni squashings also affect this, but itís hard to factor
    their small influence into it.
    Now that weíre done with the tools youíll be working with, itís time to take
    a look at the opposition youíll be facing.
    D.5 The Zombies
    The Horde: 
    These are the Regular, Conehead, Buckethead, Newspaper, Pole-Vaulting, Pool,
    Pogo, Ladder, and Screen Door zombies. For all intents and purposes, these 
    guys can be ignored if youíre doing the build right. Theyíre the lowest on 
    the totem pole because of their relatively unexceptional nature and are good
    for fodder and money.
    Jack-In-The-Box Zombie: 
    Jacks are quite possibly the simplest and most complex special zombies of 
    Survival Endless. If not for these bastards, we wouldíve had a fully 
    automated build by now. Alas, Survival Endless actually requires thinking, 
    and we have our thanks to these guys, the killer of Gloom builds. They can 
    be worked around. They are of average health, equivalent to all the other 
    bipedal specialist zombies (17hp) and they attack normally too. Their one 
    special feature is that at (seemingly) random intervals, they explode and 
    take out anything within a 1 tile radius. This can be disastrous for close 
    range plants because there seems to be no way around getting close with the 
    zombie horde all the time. Well, Iíve already gone on long enough about how 
    evil they can be, so what can people do to handle this threat? Well, thereís 
    one way of taking care of inner row Jacks, and two ways of taking care of 
    outer row Jacks.
    For inner row Jacks, you require two pool Glooms and 1 Fume that attacks 
    Notice how the absolute right edge is about a third of another tile, which 
    means zombies can be attacked before they even get on the grid. The Fume 
    can be closer but not too close for obvious reasons. Immediate Jack 
    explosions should not plague you as long as you satisfy those conditions. 
    I've never personally witnessed a Jack explosion with this setup, but
    the rarity of Jack accidents requires a humungous sample size before we
    could get statistical confidence.
    For outer row Jacks, you can Cob them before they reach your plants (which 
    doesnít work out so well for those inner row Jacks since they explode 
    before you can react) or you can use a special arrangement I discovered a 
    while back to lead to the first Cobless build, which was a big deal because 
    it was unheard of to not be using 6 Cob Cannons to get past 100. Hereís the 
    bare minimum required to be Jack immune in their exact positioning.
    It also has the added bonus of taking out Zombonis by itself along with most
    any other zombie except Football zombies and Gargantuars. Now, weíll get a 
    little more into discussion about this arrangement because there actually is
    some variability at a cost. For some odd reason, that exact distance from 
    the right edge makes the build perfectly immune, no matter what. If the 
    arrangement is moved forward one tile, itíll be crushed rather quickly, so 
    the only alternative would be to move it back. As it turns out, the farther
    back you move it, the more vulnerable to Jacks it becomes. One tile back, 
    it may take your Gloomís Pumpkin (if the Gloom has no Pumpkin when the Jack 
    nicks you, then it dies) with a very small chance of taking it out in one go. 
    This is still perfectly manageable and Iíve seen it put to good use in a lot 
    of the minimalist Cob builds, where they only have 2-4 Cobs and let the 
    zombies come to them, allowing the small number of Cobs to recharge in time. 
    Just remember that every tile you scale back, you lose 2 possible spots to be 
    used for other plants, like Winter-Pults.
    As a final note, Iíve studied a lot about the nature of Jack explosions and 
    their timing. The positions at which they explode are constant and occur 
    usually as they cross the border from one tile to another. This a rough 
    estimate and not necessarily true the farther back in the base you let them 
    go. Also, the farther they get, the more likely chance they have of blowing 
    up since their missed opportunities for exploding continue to go up. At 
    first itís, say, 1/8, then 1/7, then 1/6, etc. These are just some things to
    keep in mind, and one day itíd be really helpful to find out exactly where 
    all the explosions occur. The final thing Iíd like to mention is what really
    makes Jacks a force to be reckoned with. When youíre in the later waves 
    where multiple Jacks come out, they have a very deadly cascade effect as a 
    product of not only weakening your defenses but increasing their probability
    of exploding as they go along. One blows up and takes out a Gloom, so the 
    other 2 live, then another blows up a couple seconds later, and so on. This 
    means that a chain of Jacks can take out 3 Glooms in an instant, possibly 4 
    if they take out your replacement before it can help. That is also something
    to keep in mind and Jacks are always to be taken seriously.
    Now, for Jack recovery, I'm going to assume you've sustained heavy losses,
    otherwise there's nothing to recover from and you're fine and dandy. But
    that will not always be the case. When you hear a Jack Explosion, there's
    two possibilities, Inner Row or Outer Row. It is definitely within your
    interest to figure out which. Drop everything and assess the situation.
    Once you have a successful endless build, the only serious threat are
    these guys, so there is never harm in being too careful. If its Outer Row,
    depending on the setup, you're usually safe and it's a lot easier to
    notice the damage since you're not going to be having Zombies obscuring
    your plants on the main line. Inner Row, on the other hand can get pretty
    messy when Gigas come out. I always check my 6 Gloom first if I'm using it
    and I'll immediately replace a Gloom if 1-2 are taken out. Cannot stress
    that enough. Immediately. Every second you hesitate is another second
    only your 2 Glooms are handling the Gigas and not 3 or 4. My next step is
    delay. Freeze Shrooms are great for this, and you don't have to go
    overboard with consumables unless the pressures really on. I'll Cherry Bomb
    afterward and that'll usually take care of 2 waves of zombies. Cherry Bomb
    is best if your build needs consumables for the outer row too. After that
    the Gloom/Cob cooldown should be up and your second replacement is finished.
    If you run into more desperate situations, time delay is everything. Throw
    cheap squashable plants to protect your other plants, because you don't
    loss of your good plants begetting more loss of your good plants.
    These guys are the ice machine rovers of death. They cannot be slowed and 
    have a surprising resistance to damage especially by Winter-Pults. They 
    leave a trail of ice behind that blocks placement of any plants there 
    (sorry consumables!). Jalapenos can melt the row it affects but itís not 
    that useful for this function because of its long cooldown. Zombonis also 
    flatten any plant in its way, making it especially dangerous and it is the 
    second most likely reason youíll die in Survival Endless, next to 
    Zombonis are usually taken care of by Glooms or Cobs, same as everything 
    else. Inner row Zombonis that are not taken care of by Cobs or Spikerocks 
    are taken out by the 6 pool Gloom setup. 
    Even with the 6 Gloom, they will reach that third tile from the edge if itís
    a Spikerock or a plant with a Pumpkin. Unpumpkined Fumes can survive 
    surprisingly, which is why that inner row Jack setup actually works, which 
    Iíll link again.
    Outer row Zombonis are taken care of similarly. You can either use the outer 
    row setup for Jacks or rely on the all-powerful Cobs.
    Iíd like to make a note that you should notice which plants have Pumpkins 
    and which donít for good reason. Yes, you do actually need 2 Fumes and 1 
    Gloom as they are bare minimum for this to work.
    Now youíre probably all wondering why Pumpkins can make or break whether or 
    not you get flattened by Zombonis. The answer lies in the fact that Pumpkins
    add width to the plant. If the Zomboni touches the plant, it gets flattened,
    so a Pumpkin decreases the distance the Zomboni has to travel to reach your
    plant. Pumpkins make your plants fat. It really is that close and it is 
    definitely worth it because now you can ignore even the monstrous Zombonis.
    Unpumpkined plants are obviously vulnerable to Football zombies, so you can 
    use Pumpkins in the Zomboniís absence or just deal with the replacement 
    costs. (150, big whoop)
    Balloon Zombie:
    Make sure you either use 2 properly placed Cattails or always bring the 
    Blover card when they come around. Balloon Zombies can be snared by Freeze 
    Shroom only and when their balloon pops, they can sometimes land on those 
    unpumpkined plants annoyingly.
    Football Zombie:
    They're more just annoying than difficult. They're the zombie that makes you
    want to Pumpkin your front but can't because of Zombonis. They'll eat your
    snare too because they just won't die. When Football Zombies are in the
    composition, I usually pay extra attention to the snare application over
    the waves. Freeze Shroom is very good at destroying any damage/snare debt 
    accumulated as a result of these jerks.
    Catapult Zombie: 
    Make sure to put an Umbrella in each 2x2 back corner, then you can forget 
    about them. If youíre not damaging the outer row Catapults, theyíll 
    eventually get bored (technically run out of ammo) and move forward.
    Dolphin Zombie: 
    Heís another of the more complicated zombies but with a very simplistic 
    effect at the end of the day. He can take initial hits before entering 
    the pool, but never enough to be killed off. He jumps in with 
    invulnerability and arcs over your plants with invulnerability. He also 
    happens to be immune to snare when in this leap-frogging process. Heís not 
    actually invulnerable, because he can be killed at any point by a Cob, and 
    Freeze Shroom works on him too. If you have the standard 6 Gloom, heíll land 
    on your third column of Glooms and start nibbling away. Without the Cob, 
    you can only kill him so quickly, so he is usually guaranteed to get bites 
    off. If heís snared prior to getting into the pool or Freeze Shroomed, 
    then his damage will be vastly reduced. Dolphins require the most frequent 
    Pumpkining because of their numbers and speed, so you must always keep 
    watch of that. Winter-Pults are very unreliable with their start times for 
    attacks, so good luck getting them to nail the Dolphins.
    Digger Zombie: 
    These guys are very straight-forward, too, and you actually donít want to 
    use Magnets for them. There will be just too many of them for your poor 
    Magnets so you need dedicated ways of kicking their butts when they pop 
    out of the ground. That leaves you two viable options, Glooms or Spikerocks. 
    A Spikerock will take them out with no damage felt but at the expense of 
    doing no damage to Imps (unless you build another 2 Spikerocks for their 
    column, usually 3-4). Returning back to Glooms, there is a Gloom arrangement 
    where you just leave the back column empty, forcing the Diggers to walk a 
    tile. It is a similar concept to the Spikerock. With 1 well placed Gloom, 
    you can achieve Digger immunity and have 1 Gloom's worth of DPS for Imps. 
    The only issue is that this takes up a whopping 3 spots. However, the 2 
    blank spots aren't entirely unusable and can be used for Freeze Shroom 
    slots. There are some builds that rely on stockpiling a large number of 
    Freeze Shrooms so this has its obvious use. For 95% of the other builds 
    out there, you can do the standard 2 Gloom and fill up those back slots 
    with whatever.3 Glooms are required to take out a Digger without a single 
    nibble. 2 Glooms is a good balance since they sometimes take them out with 
    small damage or no damage at all. Glooms are affected by the same variable 
    starting time as Winter-pults, essentially, so how much damage you take from 
    a Digger is dependent on when the Gloom wants to get off its lazy butt. This 
    randomness will plague you in a lot of things, and this is no exception.
    Bum, bum, buuuum. The most intimidating zombie ever conceived for this game.
    The only zombie in the game that can sustain a heavy damage consumable. Some
    people say he IS the difficulty of Survival Endless and he is the biggest 
    reason you will fail. He specializes in crushing noob builds and laughs as 
    he strolls right past your Starfruit and Threepeaters. Nothing short of 
    unmitigated rape will stop these titans. You might think youíre cool for 
    putting down 8 Cattails and you took down that one Giga all by your lonesome,
    but fast forward 50 flags and now 12 Gigas come out with 8 Zombonis and the 
    Football zombies are eating all of your snare. Yea, good luck. Go find 
    another guide. Thereís no solution.
    Just kidding. Even though Gargantuars can take a heavy damage consumable, 
    they canít take two. The red eye Gargantuars, a.k.a. Gigas, are only 50% 
    more HP, so they take 3. (their Imps are also 50% more hp) Henceforth, I 
    shall refer only to Gigas, because if you can take down Gigas, you can take 
    down their weaker counterpart. As a matter of fact, some builds even ignore 
    the weaker brother, *cough* Cobless setup.
    Rule of thumb, always snare the Gigas. Unsnared Gigas will squash their way
    to your Umbrella Plant before you can even press the space bar to rest 
    your arthritic hands. There are three ways to handle Gigas: Cobs, Glooms, 
    Firepeas, or some combination of all those. It turns out that 3 tiles and a 
    Spikerock gives you enough room to Cob the living hell out of Gigas if you 
    have 6+ Cobs. So, for Cobs, both outer and inner rows are handled exactly the
    same. The Inner Row only seems to require 1 cob blast though if you have the 
    6 Gloom watching your back, since having 3 Glooms worth of DPS apparently 
    helps out somewhat.
    Now for those of you wondering how you can stop 12 of these guys without 
    constantly bombing them with napalm, well you have to pump your build with 
    more Glooms, like crack (or Fire pea like crack). And you still have to use 
    heavy damage consumables, just now theyíre cards instead of cobs, and they 
    cost sun, not spots. They never really wanted to balance a build strong 
    enough to handle 20 Gigas without cheating (the number always changes 
    because God laughs at you), so there you go. Either Cob spam or Cherry 
    Bomb, Freeze Shroom, Jalapeno, and Squash spam. So, how do you manage 
    without sucking on the teat of Cob Cannons? Well, you do literally stuff 
    as many Glooms as possibly you can. 
    Exhibit A.
    Take note of the seriousness of this photo. These are god slayers and take 
    their job very seriously. Also take note of the Freeze Shroom in the 
    picture. Itís a reminder that the Gigas must be snared the whole time. It 
    also shows that these 5 Glooms canít do it alone and they need a Freeze 
    Shroom when the Gigaís in range of all of them. 5 Gloom beatdown while 
    frozen equals dead Gigas. This requires Freeze and Imitator Freeze.
    There are other ways of taking out Gigas. Exhibit B. 
    Note that you still require full snaring and 4 open spots. The Winter-Pult 
    obviously doesnít have to be up front. This one takes up more space than 
    Exhibit A but is more independent because you donít need the Freeze Shroom 
    Now, for the outer rows. Theyíre a little more difficult to handle because 
    of Jacks. You canít just put 4 Glooms in a row and call it a day. If we take
    our answer to Jacks and Zombonis, and add an additional Gloom to the mix, we
    can work without Cobs. 
    This setup has precisely enough DPS to take out normal Gargantuars by 
    themselves, and since Gigas are only 1 consumable awayÖ you use Cherry Bomb, 
    Jalapeno, and Squash to bridge the gap. This is the first non-Cob outer row 
    solution to Gigas that doesnít get its butt handed to it by Jacks. Scale 
    it back and it has the effect described in the Jacks section.
    I just want to add that all these answers to Gigas make their younger 
    brother garbage. You can ignore Non-Gigas with these heavy damage-dealing 
    formations outside of some crazy flukes.
    To top it off, people can use the minimalist form of the Jack/Zomboni answer
    in conjunction with a small number of Cobs, usually 2-4. This requires 
    that you scale it back at least 1 or 2 tiles from the original position, 
    because the build is placing a lot of emphasis on those Cobs. Heavy Freeze
    Shroom spam also seems to make this work.
    Now, for Firepea:
    -(By Market Trojan Prince)
    The arrangement seems to be 4 Gatling and a Torchwood for the entire row. 
    Those Spikerocks there also are necessary and must be maintained during 
    downtime waves. On another note, dead Gigas absorb peashots, which sucks.
    Aside from the above listed methods, there arenít any more tested ways of 
    dealing with Gigas that isnít highly situational or impractical. I'd also 
    like to make a note that these are the only methods that can handle things
    by themselves. Hybridizing and synergizing is definitely recommended. There
    is but two more zombies to deal with.
    These fat midgets have the potential to be very annoying if you donít watch 
    out for them. When a Gargantuar reaches its 50% hp mark, heíll take the 
    time to throw the little guy from his back to about 5 tiles ahead of him. 
    Imps land on the plants in columns 2,3, and 4 the vast majority of the 
    time. So they breach basically the two back regions on the map. Since many 
    Gargantuars can come out at any one time, there will be many Imps at one 
    time. However, their attack is slow and their health is low, so you donít 
    need to Pumpkin often when they show. 
    One way discovered so far to take care of Imps effectively is to also 
    use Glooms in the back. 
    Like so. The formation doesnít need to be exactly that, but the Glooms must 
    be in range. Now, to discuss Gloom placement. Even though Gargantuars 
    throw their Imps relative to their own position when they get to 50% HP, the
    range at which they land can be generalized. If they move too far in, they 
    wonít even bother throwing their Imp. This can make things more difficult be
    cause that throw serves as a good way to stop the Gigas for a short while. 
    No throw means less time to DPS them down before they reach your plants. 
    Only bases that are scaled really far back have to worry about this, though.
    With that in mind, there are two columns that Glooms can be placed in to hit
    99% of the Imps that land. The red bracket is where they land, and the 
    yellow bracket is the area for effective Gloom placement.
    Notice that the right side of the yellow bracket is not within range of 
    Digger zombies, so ideally the left side of that bracket is the most bang 
    for your buck since it hits 99% of all Imps and 100% of all Diggers. Iíd 
    also like to point out that the transition from 2 Gloom to 3 Gloom coverage
    for Imps is not very noticeable. 
    This is why Glooms for Digger zombies are probably more useful than 
    Spikerocks. Why? Because, if you lay down Spikerocks to take care of Digger 
    zombies, you have 0 Glooms to take care of Imps. This is what the setup 
    would look like:
    So for 3 slots, youíre getting 3 Glooms worth of damage to Diggers 
    (3 Glooms = 2 Spikerocks) and 1 Glooms worth of damage to Imps. If you use 
    Glooms for Diggers, like the one shown earlier, for 2 slots you get 2 Glooms
    worth of damage to both Imps and Diggers. Now, simple math dictates that 
    3 + 1 = 2 + 2. So for 2 slots, you get the same overall DPS. Not to mention,
    the difference between 2 Glooms of damage to Diggers is minimal compared to
    3. Itís all about diminishing returns and maximizing your effectiveness per 
    tile space. However, some people have made successful builds using Spikerocks 
    in the third row to take care of Imps too, which looks really cool, but still 
    an inefficient tile placement until proven otherwise. Only high # cob builds 
    can afford to sacrifice 4-5 spaces for what can be handled in 2.
    One final note is that Imps are very wide and heavy-set, so their hitbox is 
    actually larger than where they land. So, horizontally speaking, Glooms can 
    reach them about 1.3-1.4 tiles away aside from the normal 1 tile range. We 
    shall see that this is the same for Bungees too.
    These guys come every beginning of a flag (end of first half and end of 
    second half), but not at the beginning of the level. They vary in number, 
    even in the later flags, from just about 1 to 10 at a time. There are 
    multiple ways of dealing with Bungees. You can either block them with 
    Umbrella Plants, which is somewhat hard to manage with a very large base, 
    or DPS them down before they pick up your plant and leave. So, how does one 
    go about that? Well, snared Bungee zombies surprisingly stay down twice as 
    long, but they have 23 health so it is still quite a feat to bring these guys 
    down in time. You can use a properly timed Freeze Shroom, which will freeze 
    them in place if theyíre out and not moving, snare them, and damage them. 
    The key to timing it is to see the targets land, wait 3 seconds, then Coffee
    Bean the Freeze Shroom. If it works out, they should be frozen as quickly 
    as they possibly can. This way, your Winter-Pults, Glooms, or Cobs can 
    handle them. You can also Cob them without any help if you have good 
    timing and reaction speed.
    The final way is for your base to handle it all by itself. This requires 
    extreme Gatling plus Torchwood DPS (which doesnít always work especially 
    if they're behind the Torchwood), or Winter-Pults and Glooms. With enough 
    Glooms, theyíll die snared or not, which means your 6 Gloom front will 
    always be safe. However, if you donít have space for such a large amount 
    of Glooms, youíll need to enlist the help of Winter-Pults. Because 
    Winter-Pults and Glooms both start at random times with their attacks, 
    their delay can be so long that you need at least 1 Winter-Pult and 4 
    Glooms just to secure a plant 99.9%. 3 Glooms will be around 90-95% security. 
    If you already have a Winter-Pult in every row, every plant not covered by 
    an Umbrella must be in range of 4 Glooms for that kind of security. But 
    like the Imps, the Bungees are wider; therefore their horizontal hitbox 
    allows them to be hit by Glooms 2 spaces away. This does not work 
    vertically but it does have an effect on diagonals. To clarify what I mean 
    exactly, consider the following: 
    A and B are Glooms, X is a Bungee, and underscores are blank spaces:
    X _ A
    _ _ B 
    Both B and A will attack X, because X is within 2 horizontal spaces of 
    the Glooms. If you fail to achieve 3-4 Glooms for some spots, whenever 
    those spots get targeted, you must use a Freeze Shroom or be prepared to 
    replace the plant.
    D.6 Build Practice
    Actually Building Your Layout In-Game
    I won't go into too much detail about it because it's very easy to do. 
    I'll just tell you what I normally do.
    -For the first level, I bring:
    Imitater Sunflower
    Potato Mine
    Lily Pad
    The beginning is all about getting your economy up. The only focus should
    be building Sunflowers uninterrupted until 80-90% of the map is Sunflower. 
    Now, obviously, the early zombies won't let you go that easily. That's 
    why I bring the Potato Mine. You can use the Rake too, but you'll need 
    the Mine for the 2nd and possibly 3rd zombie. Now, I'd be careful about 
    your initial Sunflower placement. I normally put them all in one row. I'm 
    making sure to place the original Sunflower every time the cooldown is up
    so I want the odds of me having to use a Potato Mine early to be as
    low as possible. That's why I stick to one row and just a throw two 
    Garlics up front and call it a day. Another tip is to always prioritize 
    original Sunflower over Imitater when you can only afford one in the 
    beginning. It takes like 3 seconds for Imitater to activate unlike the 
    instant original, so if the cooldown of the original comes up before those 
    3 seconds, it would've been faster just to wait. Also, a rule of thumb for
    Potato Mines, 3.5 spaces is about the proper amount you need to place away 
    from the zombie.
    So after you're done and you're all Sunflowered up and you got your Garlic 
    protecting the Outer Rows, you'll notice Potato Mines don't cut it
    anymore. You have to stop Sunflower production a little bit to save
    for a Cattail but they literally take care of the rest of the wave
    for you. Once you have two, you can focus on producing more Lily Pads,
    making more Sunflowers, and starting to add Pumpkins and Glooms to your
    build. That's pretty much it for the first level. The rest is pretty easy 
    and I leave that to you.
    Consumable Tips
    My general philosophy with consumables is to use them as effectively as 
    possible. That requires two things. Infrequency (timing) and placement 
    (spacing). Now when I say infrequency, they very well may be used every
    time their cooldown is up, but I want your attitude to be "reluctant to use
    it unless for good reason." They cost Sun, and you don't know when you will
    need it, so don't waste it. Aside from using them less often, you can just
    make use of them better to achieve the even more efficiency. For example,
    Jalapenos attack the whole row. They can attack 2-3 waves worth of zombies
    if you wait long enough, so you can double or triple the effectiveness of
    these guys just like that. Cherry Bombs work this way to a lesser extent
    and can reach 2 waves at a time. Cobs are just free Cherry Bombs but they
    follow the same rules.
    Freeze Shroom is my favorite consumable, so I'll give a disproportionate 
    amount of time to them. Despite people saying that Freeze Shroom is only 
    good for Gloom/Fume builds, EVERY build could use more time. Let's get past
    the obvious, though. This guy Freezes things in place, but where should 
    things be frozen in place? Close to your plants, duh! Freeze next to your 
    Glooms, your Spikerocks, your Fumes, whatever. Timing is of the essence.
    Many builds require that you Freeze properly and in optimal DPS positions.
    Next, you need to protect these guys from getting killed. Do you have spots
    well protected by Glooms? Queue some Freeze Shrooms there. It's always nice
    to have at least 1 dedicated slot to Freeze Shroom, because wasted Freeze 
    Shroom is probably the second leading cause of death aside from Jack
    accidents. You can use Freeze against Gigas to help burn them down, against
    Jacks to prevent their explosions, against Diggers/Dolphins to stop their
    nibbles. Freeze Shroom is very versatile and powerful. You get more sun
    and less cooldown on all the rest of your cards because of that bought 
    time. You can also rest yourself and set the game to your pace. Every time
    a hard wave starts, open with a well-timed Freeze for good measure. Stops
    Bungees and ambush zombies in their tracks and it makes your snare rotation 
    more efficient. Leaving them asleep is perhaps their best attribute,
    because now you can have more Freeze Shroom than a person should ever have.
    Something a little less known is that a Freeze Shroom will still activate
    if it's awake when killed/flattened, so you can time it where a Giga swings
    and activates the Freeze Shroom for you.
    One last note, Puff-Shrooms are great if you have extra card slots. They're
    free and amazing against Gigas. Their low cooldown makes them excellent
    buffers against Football zombies too.
    D.7 Build Theory
    If you don't understand the fundamental workings of what's going on, it is 
    very difficult to establish truly successful survival builds. I think one
    of the most fundamental things we can talk about is the orthodox 6 Gloom.
    The reasons why you have successful builds, usually, are those pool Glooms. 
    You can't just put a Gloom out in front on the ground, otherwise it'll get
    squashed. That space must be earned by enough pool DPS to clear enough 
    zombies for the Inner Row. The bare minimum is not until 3 tiles; this 
    has been experimentally proven. Therefore, the closest you can get to 
    working on the Outer Row starts 3 tiles back. So we have the Pool Row 
    covering for the Inner Row. And the Inner Row covering for the Outer Row.
    So, now you can see that the highest DPS possible buys you the most freed 
    tiles for the subsequent row. More tiles usually means a stronger defense, 
    so a good objective for designing your build is to squeeze in as much DPS 
    as *necessary* for all 3 types of rows.
    There is one more factor we must consider too with build theory. We must 
    understand that all we're really doing is bringing a Zombie HP pool to 
    zero before it reaches our base. That's a set number in terms of time 
    and hp per wave. So then we can treat each tile as a unit of damage done 
    over a distance.
    Let's look at a build using this row analysis.
    Let's take the inner row for example. Disregarding the Freeze Shroom, that's
    3 on-screen tiles before the zombies reach your plants. This means in 3 
    tiles, you need to do enough damage to kill them. Since they travel at a 
    constant rate, that can be equated to seconds. If it takes X seconds to cross 
    a tile, you'd need to do Y damage in X seconds. Going from 3 tiles to 2 tiles 
    is 66% of the distance and thus you're doing 66% of your original damage. If 
    your original damage amount was the bare minimum to survive, then you need a 
    50% damage increase to compensate. (1.5 x 0.66 = 1.0)
    Now, I obviously wouldn't scale the Inner any more forward, because that 
    would contradict what I already said about it being impossible. 50% is a 
    tremendous increase in DPS, but the farther back your build goes, the less 
    the penalty there is for making it 1 tile closer. For this build, the Inner
    row is most vulnerable because it is the closest to the horde and loses a
    Gloom right off the bat if you mess up. The Outer row is most incompetent 
    because it has the weakest defenses at its disposal. Instead of 5 Glooms 
    and 3 tiles like Inner, Outer has only 2 Glooms and 2 tiles where those 
    Glooms get to do their damage. Fumes help too, and I've always been under 
    the impression that Fumes attack at 1/4th the speed of a Gloom, so 4x the 
    distance with 1/4th the DPS = 1 tiles worth Gloom damage. Still not 
    nearly as much as the Inner row though. By looking at builds with this 
    perspective. You can quickly figure out the vulnerabilities and strengths 
    of any layout.
    After learning all this theory, itís time to see these things put into 
    practice. Itís one thing to memorize the tactics laid down by your 
    forefathers, itís another to see these in action. Like I said, I categorize 
    these builds by their number of Cobs, from 0 to 8. There are builds that
    are more than 8, but theyíre no different from the 8 Cob.
    D.8 Build Database
    Cobless Builds
    -(By Draco89123)
    I happen to be the designer of this build, so I have the most knowledge 
    about the first successful Cobless build out there. There are some 
    modifications to this build that make it different from the standard 
    approaches. For one, the Umbrella plant is optimally placed so this build 
    is Bungee immune. For two, there is a third inner row Gloom that is used 
    for Imps and also acts as a safety net. That third layer of Gloom defense 
    makes this build very resilient to Jack explosions because you can still 
    survive with a completely lost layer of Glooms.
    You should see that this build is a combination of the inner row answer to 
    Gigas (5 Gloom which requires Freeze Shroom and its Imitator) and the 
    a non-Cob answer to outer row Gigas (which requires consumable rotation).
    The original Pumpkin card is enough to cover for the maintenance. 
    There are two weaknesses to this build. The first of which is dealing with 
    the fact that every zombie will get uncomfortably close to your base, so 
    visibility and pressure issues will arise, like finding spots to place your 
    Freeze Shroom. The second problem is that it canít do anything to stop the 
    premature Jack explosion of the pool Glooms. This can be a game breaker if 
    you do not replace them immediately and react accordingly. Since youíll be 
    down a Gloom for a little while, it is difficult to prevent any other loss 
    of plants in the mean time, especially that first inner row Gloom. The key 
    is to focus all your consumables on stalling time and minimizing damage. 
    That means Freeze, Puff Shroom, Cherry Bomb, etc. Cherry Bombs have the 
    added benefit of affecting both rows, so use the Cherry Bomb for the 
    afflicted side before the Jalapeno.
    The key to the consumable rotation is to use them only when the Gigas are 
    about to smash your plants. Use the Squash as often as possible because 
    of its cheaper cost and lower cooldown. Aside from that, donít let your 
    Freeze Shrooms go to waste all too often, and make sure to queue up Freezes 
    during the breaks. The highlight of this build is that for non-Giga levels, 
    you can watch the destruction of all the zombies completely automated. It 
    is rather beautiful to see everything fall without you doing much of 
    anything. It also provides an alternative to the usual Cob spam thatís 
    required of you for the Cob builds. People recommend this build if you 
    donít like all the excessive clicking of Cob Cannons.
    As a little bit of trivia, I call this layout the Elegant Build because
    it actually handles Imps better than if you had stuck 3 Glooms in the back
    for Diggers and just had 2 Glooms in the front of the Inner Row. Since 
    Glooms have greater horizontal range, and Imps are fat to begin with, the 
    Gloom coverage overlap is optimal for 99% of the Imp landings and that
    completely surprised me.
    v2.0- This build has really stood the test of time. All I could do was modify
    one of the pool Winter-Pults so it could get a Freeze slot.
    I'm glad now that more people have invented cobless builds. Variety is the
    spice of life and now we have Cobless Firepea builds:
    -(By Market Trojan prince)
    -(By Unknown)
    -(By jokxurwq)
    If we look at the patterns behind these Firepea cobless builds, the trend 
    is to use Gatling/Torchwood over Winter-Pult/Fume in the outer row. The 
    maximum number of Gatling Peashooters seems to be 5 and < 3 seems to be only 
    for Cob builds or Gloom support (more on that later). They require full 
    rotation of consumables, including possibly Puff Shrooms. Some seem to only 
    handle one side being Firepea while the other side is the minimal Gloom/Fume 
    arrangement with either additional Fumes, the Fumes being pushed way back, 
    or they're behind Spikerocks. They make ample use of Freeze Shrooms by 
    having at the very least 2 Freeze slots. Some seem to stockpile 6! They're 
    great for keeping the rest of the wave stopped while the Firepeas work 
    through the crowd.
    -(By shui152)
    -(By WanderingWind) 
    -(By Unknown)
    Here are some other Cobless builds I could find that use Gloom/Fume/Pult.
    Here we see that shui152 opted for 1 tile scale back to get that 4 space 
    inner row and to allow maximum time for Freezing. Snaring might be an issue 
    (due to low Pult count) but the build makes regular use of Freeze Shrooms. 
    What's very interesting about this layout is that it used the idea of 
    turning the back column into extra Freeze Slots. If you have a sufficiently 
    high amount of blank spots, you can store a ridiculous amount of Freeze 
    Shrooms that can last you entire waves. With this in mind, you can make 
    builds go where they normally couldn't otherwise. This build is also 
    interesting because of its Fume/Gloom arrangement. Because it is so scaled
    back and reliant so much on frontloading damage with constant freeze, he 
    managed to move the Fumes 1 tile forward relative to the usual setup. 
    When Zombonis come along though, that front Fume will probably get 
    flattened, though.
    The third build is notable for its different way of handling Dolphins, for
    one. They'll jump over that initial Gloom and move a lot more slowly along
    the water tile. That Dolphin answer also handles Jack accidents more 
    effectively, because, at most, you lose one Gloom. You'll also notice
    the unpumpkined Inner Row Gloom, which indicates to me that it's probably
    not worth Pumpkining. Jacks definitely have a chance of blowing it up, but
    now any one given Jack accident can be manageable. I'd also like to make 
    note of that front pool Gloom and how optimally placed it actually is. It's 
    the only position for that Gloom to attack Gigas in all the Inner Row tiles.
    Also, almost 1600 flags for a cobless build.
    -(By Draco89123)
    So, I basically made my own version using that nifty Freeze Shroom trick.
    The biggest issue is that you need to use them if Diggers pop out. They will
    always eat your Freeze Shroom. 1 Freeze Shroom can handle a lot of Diggers
    though, so you can conserve them if you rotate properly and watch for
    future Diggers by their animation underground. You should use the doomed 
    ones first. You can also Pumpkin the Freeze if Freeze importance > Pumpkins.
    And finally, here's my take on the Firepea:
    -(By Draco89123)
    Everything seemed to be really strong, and it seems just as strong as the 
    other Firepea builds I tested, so I'm sure it can go the distance too. 
    Things can get hectic because Firepeas, even if they actually aren't, 
    seem faster than other Cobless builds. There's a low margin for error 
    when it comes to unsnared Zombies. (even with Freeze)
    2 Cob Builds
    The main trouble of these builds is that they quickly let unsnared zombies 
    get by, so Freeze Shroom is a must for its equalizing power. It gets 
    everything snared and removes the debt accumulated for lost time. These are 
    probably the slowest builds because they require the zombies to go the most 
    distance before the next wave comes. As a result, you can get away with a 
    low Sunflower count.
    -(By FlyinFree)
    FlyinFreeís build employs the delay tactic and making full use of those 2 
    Cob Cannons. It seems like this build also requires full consumable rotation
    and both the Pumpkin card and its Imitator. He also uses Spikerocks for 
    Diggers because he wants to keep the Gloom cost down just in case he loses 
    the pool Gloom or that front ground Gloom. You can see too that he employs 
    the most stripped down version of the Zomboni/Jack answer. It was his build 
    that actually showed me the second Gloom in this formation was unnecessary.
    -(By Draco89123)
    My version of this build does not require a consumable rotation, but I do 
    bring a Freeze Shroom and Cherry Bomb just in case. When there are Jacks in 
    the level, I replace those regular sunflowers for Fumes to handle the Jack 
    accidents. I rely on using Puff Shroom and its Imitator to severely slow 
    down the Gigas so that my Cobs can take care of them.
    -(By Unknown)
    Someone had also used my Cobless build "Elegant" and added 2 cobs to it.
    Surviving on 2 Twins is very baller and goes to show how stable Cobs can 
    make a build. It also goes to show that Cob designs and Cobless design
    aren't incompatible. They synergize a little too well, actually.
    3 Cob Build
    -(By Unknown)
    I don't know whether or not to put 3 Cobs into the 2 or 4 Cob category, but 
    they play more like 2 cobs so we'll just go with that. They usually require
    moderate consumable use like the other 2's but allow you to cut down on Sun
    4 Cob Builds
    4 Cobs are probably the easiest and most flexible of builds. 4 Cobs is 
    halfway to constant Cob spam every wave, so the Cob rotation for this build 
    involves Cobbing every other wave and just drawing out the zombies long 
    enough to take care of the in between. These are usually the most lenient
    builds as far as timing and difficulty is concerned.
    I couldnít find a link to his setup, but there are a lot of videos of this 
    guyís build.
    -(By Shapes112)
    Shapes112ís build is what introduced me to the flexibility of the 4 Cob and 
    it shows the pacing of the game by these builds, which makes it very level 
    and nonchalant. I believe Shapes112 requires consumable rotation and all 
    sorts of other hijinks based on its asymmetry and his constant switching of
    plants to fit his needs. He has definitely proven that 4 Cob can manage 
    1,000 flags just like the rest of them. 
    -(By Draco89123)
    As inspiration from Shapes112ís build, I decided to optimize both sides, 
    make it symmetrical again, and make it so the build can always deal with 
    anything that comes out and not need to switch things out. You can still 
    switch things out, but basal form can handle anything without any 
    modification. This build requires no consumable (except Blover) and no 
    Imitater card, so I just bring Puff Shroom and its Imitater because you 
    can never go wrong with free delays.
    -(By Halibabica)
    "Antipode Build." This build shows off the power of 4 cob, since it can 
    afford to sustain double sided fire pea. Here is a direct explanation
    from the author himself:
    "Gatling Pea and Torchwood - Its important to understand how exactly they 
    work.  Itís obvious that the fire peas do double damage and that Gatlings 
    spit them out very rapidly but they only hit the first zombie in the row, 
    right?  WRONG.  When a fire pea collides with a normal zombie (normal 
    being anything that isnít made of metal), it has a fiery splash effect 
    that damages all other zombies nearby the target. The fire counteracts the 
    effects of snare, but only on the initial target. Zombies hit by the fire 
    splash take one point of damage and remain slowed from snare.  This means 
    that Gatlings shooting fire peas can hit multiple zombies at once, making 
    them plausible for an Endless build.  But there are some zombies 
    that can counter the Gatling + Torchwood combo which must be watched out 
    for.  When fire peas collide with screen doors, ladders, catapults, and 
    Zombonis, they lose their splash effect and only do damage to the metal 
    target that took the hit.  This is the primary reason Gatlings and 
    Torchwoods fail in Endless, and the reason why you canít rely 
    on them alone.  Iíll repeat that: YOU CANíT RELY ON THEM ALONE. Gatlings 
    and Torchwoods output tons and tons of damage; enough to drop a 
    Giga-Gargantuar in about fifteen seconds.  But they cant stop everything, 
    and if youíre going to use them, you need to have a plan for how to take 
    out the metal zombies and everything behind the enemy front lines.  
    Otherwise, they get backed up and you have a huge wave of zombies 
    knocking on your door before you know it."
    Here's another unique 4 Cob:
    -(By zhy1013181)
    Spikerock overload for the lulz and very minimalist Gloom/Fume arrangement 
    for the outer row.
    6+ Cob Builds
    Now that weíve moved beyond just having 4 Cobs, the Cob rotation becomes 
    extremely important for maintaining yourself in the later waves. These 
    builds always rely on Cobs, even for simpler levels with the basic zombies 
    because of the sacrifices they made to have such raw power. The Cob rotation
    involves Cobbing whenever you have a pair up, but only one pair per wave. 
    The idea is to Cob as late as possible. You can time this based on the 
    Dolphins, but the best timer is to make it so the Cobs land right before the
    Zomboni is about to get popped by the Spikerock. That is a good way to get 
    in the groove, and if you maintain that for every level, nothing will give 
    you trouble. Football zombies, Dance zombies, Jacks, and Gigas still always
    pose a potential threat so they are the main priority of these builds.
    To optimize Cob blast placement, target the inner row 7th column tile to hit
    everything within that open area. It helps against pool zombies and is best 
    for dealing with the entirety of a wave with just 2 shots. The next tactic,
    like all the other Cob builds, is to stall the zombies with Puff Shrooms and
    Freeze Shrooms if you need time for your Cobs to recharge.
    -(By Iamsooty)
    This is the first successful build for Survival Endless. This defined what 
    being a viable build meant and laid the foundation for all Cob builds out 
    there. It established the idea of using Glooms in the back, using the 
    orthodox 6 pool Gloom, and using Spikerocks and open space to buy enough 
    time to kill everything with Cobs. The card selection suggests that it 
    required the usual consumable rotation, Pumpkin replacement, and Spikerock
    -(By Proz)
    This was the start of the 8 Cob builds. Why stop at 6? The outer rows were 
    always more vulnerable because they werenít getting Gloom protection. 
    People answered that for the longest time with a butt load of Winter-Pults 
    for the outer row, but then Proz decided to be really ballsy and put an 
    extremely vulnerable Cob Cannon on the front lines and just made his Cob 
    rotation constant. With 8 Cobs and proper timing, there is no gap in between
    waves, so if done correctly, everything would be dead before they even 
    reached the Cob Cannons. If a Cob Cannon does get eaten, or mistakes are 
    made, then consumables are recommended to bring along as backup.
    -(By Cob Cannon)
    -(By Taikanataur)
    -(By Draco89123)
    Finally, the rest of these links are just tweaks of the Cob design. 
    Theyíre designed for ease of use with Freeze Shrooms, or more elegant 
    Umbrella Plant placement, or whatever. They essentially all follow the same 
    Cob rotation. My builds at the end show that the 6 pool Gloom is entirely 
    superfluous for these setups, and as a result, Jacks are no longer a 
    concern, which makes Sun no longer a concern.
    -(By EL)
    We have an interesting rearrangement of the last 2 cobs and the
    Firepea answer in the outer row. This seems like a very balls-out build
    and likely to progress quickly. I'm pretty sure ambush zombies will eat
    your front Cobs too, so you must time it well enough where they don't
    get a single bite. This is one of the more precision-oriented builds.
    -(By EL)
    A whimsical build that's surprisingly effective. It uses Kernel-Pults
    that can help stop Gigas (I'd assume?). It requires good Cob timing to 
    manage this on only 2 Twins, though. Just another demonstration of how OP 
    Cobs can be.
    -(By Unknown)
    -(By Unknown)
    -(By Unknown)
    -(By Unknown)
    Here are some more slightly modified 8 Cob setups. You can see interesting 
    answers to Imp/Digger zombies with the use of space in 8 Cobs. They are the 
    least reliant on tile efficiency because all you really need are the Cobs, 
    so you can get away with arrangements like these and be really creative.
    -(By Unknown)
    Another novel 8 Cob. No Bungee to protect yourself from the Catapults! This 
    relies on precise timing, because Spikerocks can only take 9 shots before 
    they die. It may sound like a lot now, but wait until 3-4 Catapults come out
    per row.
    For fun, here's 10 Cobs to show you how ridiculous it can get!
    -(By Unknown)
    -(By Unknown)
    **If any of you know the names of authors for some of these, please email me 
    so that I can give credit where credit is due. I apologize but Google 
    translate was bugging out for some of the names.**
    D.9 Zombie Stats
    Special thanks to A Guy for his contributions.
    Regular: 10
    Conehead: 27
    Buckethead: 65
    Football: 80
    Pole-Vaulting: 17
    Newspaper: 8 hp Newspaper + 9 hp Zombie
    Screen Door: 65 hp blocked, 10 hp penetrated
    Michael Jackson: 17
    Backup: 10
    Ducky Tube: 10
    Ducky Tube Conehead: 27
    Ducky Tube Buckethead: 65
    Snorkel: 10
    Zomboni: 60
    Bobsled: 14 hp bobsled, 10 hp per zombie
    Dolphin: 17
    Jack-in-the-Box: 17
    Balloon: 1 for balloon, 10 for zombie
    Digger: 15
    Pogo: 17
    Bungee: 23
    Ladder: 25 hp for ladder, 17 for zombie
    Catapult: 35
    Imp: 3
    Gargantuan: 150 (2 Consumables worth)
    Giga-Gargantuan: 225 (3 consumables worth)
    Yeti: 46
    D.O Conclusion
    Hopefully this guide will be complete enough for you to not only be able to 
    play a build past 100 flags, but design a new build past 100 flags.
    Any questions, comments, concerns, or if you have new ideas, new tactics, 
    or just a willingness for PvZ discussion, you can email me.
    Thanks imagehosting.com for your awesome image hosting. =P