Gran Turismo

                A-Class License Winning Strategies Guide

          Sony Computer Entertainment/Polyphony Digital for the

                       Sony PlayStation 1 Console

WARNING: This guide will ONLY work for the American versions of the game

                         Compiled by Mark Kim

                            Final Revision

                  Date of Completion: March 27, 2005



Copyright Information

---------------------

Unpublished work trademarked (tm) and copyrighted (c) by Mark Kim.

All Rights Reserved.



WARNING: This document is for use in the following websites only:

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Gran Turismo is developed by Polyphony Digital under license by Sony
 Computer
Entertainment, Inc.  This game is copyrighted 1997, 1998 Sony
 Computer
Entertainment.  All Rights Reserved.  The cars, images, and
 all cars'
likeliness are registered trademarks and copyrights of its
 respective owners.
All Rights Reserved.  This FAQ was created by Mark
 Kim in respect to Sony,
Polyphony Digital, Mazda, Honda, Acura, Toyota,
 Mitsubishi, Aston Martin,
Chevrolet, Nissan, TVR, Dodge, and Subaru
 Properties, as I have no
intention of infringement on copyright on any
 of this work.



========================================================================

GENERAL INFORMATION



Make: Gran Turismo

Developer: Polyphony Digital

Publisher: Sony Computer Entertainment

Release Date: First Quarter 1998

ESRB Classification: E for Everyone, Suitable for All Ages

Genre: Racing

Platform: Sony PlayStation Type 1

MSRP: Sold as Greatest Hits for Low Price if still available

Recommended Controllers: Sony Analog Dual-Shock Controller

Features: Memory Card Save.  Each save requires in between 1-5 blocks.



========================================================================

HISTORY OF THIS FAQ



March 27, 2005: This is the final edition of this FAQ as I will no longer

update this for any reason.  Sorry.



========================================================================


CONTENTS OF THIS FAQ


*  Newsflash

*  Some recommendations

*  Classification of Car Castrolization

*  What is an A Class License?

*  A-Class License Examinations

   = Practical Cornering Part 1

   = Practical Cornering Part 2

   = Practical Cornering Part 3

   = Advanced Cornering Part 1

   = Advanced Cornering Part 2

   = Advanced Cornering Part 3

   = Powersliding

   = Coping with Hairpins at High Speeds (Final Exam)

*  Clubman Cup

*  GT Cup

*  Japanese and American Car Championship

*  Japanese and British Car Championship

*  American and British Car Championship

*  Megaspeed Championship

*  Commercial Car Championship

*  The Do's and Dont's

*  Some Rants

*  Resources and Stuff

*  Acknowledgements

*  One Final Warning



========================================================================

NEWSFLASH



***AN IMPORTANT RANT FROM THE FAQ AUTHOR***



AS YOU SHOULD HAVE NOTICED FROM MY PREVIOUS WORKS, I WILL _NOT_ BE

ACCEPTING ANY E-MAILS FROM ANY WEBMASTER WHO SEEKS TO PLACE THIS FILE

ON THEIR OWN WEBSITE REGARDLESS OF THE CAUSE.  THIS IS BECAUSE THERE

ARE TOO MANY SITES THAT _STILL_ HAS THE OUTDATED VERSION OF MY WORKS

AND I REALLY HATE TO SEE IT LURKING AROUND THE INTERNET.  THE REASON
WHY I HAVE TO RESTRICT THE AMOUNT OF WEBSITES THAT CAN MIRROR MY WORKS

IS BECAUSE I WANT TO KEEP MY WORKS CURRENT AND UP-TO-DATE.  ANY MORE

E-MAILS REQUESTING PERMISSION TO MIRROR THIS FILE _WILL_ BE FILTERED.

THE ONLY SITES THAT HAVE MY SEAL OF APPROVAL TO MIRROR MY WORKS ARE

THE SITES LISTED IN THE COPYRIGHT INFORMATION IN THE BEGINNING OF

EVERY OF MY WORKS.



IF FOR ANY REASON YOU _DO_ MIRROR ANY OF MY WORKS ON YOUR OWN WEBSITE

WITHOUT MY SEAL OF APPROVAL, INSTANT LEGAL ACTION WILL BE TAKEN

IMMEDIATELY.  I APPRECIATE YOUR COOPERATION IN THIS MATTER AND AGAIN,

THE ANSWER WILL _ALWAYS_ BE NO IF FOR ANY REASON IF YOU WANT TO PLACE

THIS FILE INSIDE YOUR WEBSITE REGARDLESS OF THE CAUSE AND WHETHER THE

CONTENT FROM ANY OF MY WORKS IS EITHER GOOD OR BAD.



THIS HAS BEEN MY POLICY EVER SINCE I HAVE STARTED TO RESTRICT THE

AMOUNT OF SITES THAT ARE PERMITTED TO MIRROR MY WORKS AND IT WILL

ALWAYS BE.



Note: This notice is derived on Brett "Nemesis" Franklin's Crazy Taxi

FAQ for the Sega Dreamcast although there has been some variations to

make this one more severe and a bit more formal. Also, I will repeat

this near the end of the document.

Always check http://www.gamefaqs.com for the latest version of this
FAQ.  Like I said, this is the final update of the FAQ's life as I have
declared an EOL on this FAQ, so there will be no more updates!!!

Sorry.

This document, like all Video Game FAQs on the Internet, must be

viewed in a monotype font or the alignment will not be correct.  If

the alignment isn't correct for any reason, then please follow these

procedures:



1.  On Netscape Communicator, click on Edit, then Preferences.

2.  Click on Fonts at the Appearance Section

3.  At the Fixed Width Font, select Courier New, and select size 10

    point font.

4.  If you see this sample bulk of writing aligned correctly, please

    proceed:



1234567890

**********



It is strongly advisable that you *do* view this document through

the DOS Application Edit.COM or through the Apple Text Viewer SimpleText

for alignment purposes.  If you are planning to view this through

the Windows Interface, then you are highly advised to open up WordPad

and then open up the Text File.  Set the font face to Courier New and

set the font size to 10.



========================================================================

RECOMMENDATIONS



1.  Since you must possess the B-Class License before you can get the

    A-Class License, go take and pass all 8 B-Class License Tests before

    taking the 8 A-Class License tests first.  After you get the B-Class

    License, you may wish to get your A-Class License from this point,

    but I recommend that you go race all B-Class races first.



2.  A good way to practice all of your skills in the Simulation Mode

    right after you get your B-Class License would be to play lots of

    games at the Sunday Cup to improve your skills.  Although you don't

    earn too much credits for the B-Class Championship series, it's a

    steady way to upgrade your car.



3.  Since you start with only 10,000 in a mint-vanilla data file, I

    highly recommend that you purchase a Toyota MA70Supra of some sorts

    because the acceleration and handling should suit your needs.  I

    have to warn you though that unless you learn how to tame this used

    car, the MA70Supra will spin out pretty often, so it's important

    that you don't overspin the Rear Wheels.



4.  Spot Races are a great way to improve your skills, but for Pole

    Positioning you will only earn 500 credits, and if you win the race,

    you will only get 1,000 credits.  I would just get my B-License and

    participate in the Sunday Cup often instead.



5.  Once you get enough credits, you may upgrade your MA70 Supra to suit

    your own tastes, or you can get certain cars that you want to

    commandeer.



6.  After you get used to the Sunday Cup, try the B-Class special events

    to push your skills further, and once your skills are polished, I

    would start with the Clubman Cup first since you are not gonna have

    any powerful cars to spare in the GT Cup.



7.  There are bound to be restrictions on the car that you can ride on

    during the Special Event Championships.  I'll pin-point any possible

    restrictions which may apply.



8.  Gran Turismo is the most realistic racing game up to date, so I

    recommend that you just enjoy the game.  Although you may get pissed

    just because the computer races unfairly, you should try to discover

    new techniques or/and routines to improve your skills.  Having fun

    while playing Gran Turismo is the most important part that I'm asking

    of you.



9.  Before YOU EVEN PLAY GRAN TURISMO, buy yourself a PlayStation Dual

    Shock Analog Controller.  When you turn on your PlayStation, set the

    analog ON, because your thumb doesn't like to be rubbing the D-Pad

    for 2-3 hours.  I recommend using this controller over the D-Pad

    because the Analog Stick is a lot more comfy (though takes time to

    master) than having to rub my thumb on the D-Pad.

10. I highly recommend that you go to http://www.psmonline.com and check
    out Jaz Rignall's Gran Turismo Guide.



========================================================================

CASTROLIZATION OF THE CARS



When I first created this document about 2 years ago, I felt that if

you modify the cars to the teeth, then the cars would definitely be

unbeatable.  I was wrong.  Because each cars have its own strengths

and weaknesses, beefing the cars up to maximum strength varies from

car to car.  For example, a Viper GTS Coupe can't go up to NA Level

3 but starts out with a lot of horsepower and torque when you first

buy it.  On the other hand, some of the better cars in the game (i.e.

Nissan Skyline GT-R VSpec) _can_ be beefed up to the teeth with the

highest level modification parts available in the game.  Please

be warned that some cars may have higher prices as far as mod parts

are concerned.

Usually, cars perform better when they use maximum-
strength modification
 parts, but some cars perform better without the
brute force they need.  
Some of the Japanese Cars (i.e. Nissan Skyline
GT-R VSpec) cannot perform 
well unless you've placed a maximum-strength
mod part or two.  That is 
why learning the tracks and winning them all
is as important as fully tuning your cars to the teeth.



Unless you are a real mechanic, you should never fiddle with some of the

settings because you can either make a car unstable, stiff, or even

worse, unforgiving to use.  That is why you need to think twice before

even adjusting some of the car's properties (i.e. Suspension) before

even attempting this risk.  That is why some cars perform better when

fully Castrolized than the others.



Castrolizing your car involves tuning up your car with the following

Tune-Ups:


* Muffler and Air Filter

  = Racing Muffler and Air Filter

* Brakes

  = Sports Brakes

  = Brake Balance Controller

* Engine Tuning

  = Tuned ROM

  = Port Polishing

  = Engine Balancing

  = Bore and Stroke-Up (Increasing Displacement)

* For Turbo Cars

  = Turbo Kit Level 4

  = Racing High-Capacity Intercooler

* For Normal Aspirated Cars

  = Normal Aspiration Tuneup Kit Level 3 (This applies ONLY to some cars)

* Transmission

  = Racing Support Gearbox

  = Triple-Plate Clutch

  = Racing Flywheel

  = Carbon Driveshaft (only applies to certain cars)

* Suspension

  = Racing Support Suspension

  = Any Stabilizers (Remember overstiffening your car's suspension will

    equate to lousy driving)

* Tires
  = Soft/Soft Racing Tires

* Others

  = Weight Reduction All Stages (All stages of Weight Reduction MUST be

    performed in order

  = Racing Body Modification



Well, that's all I can say for now!!!



========================================================================

THE VIRTUE AND THE TITLE OF AN A-CLASS LICENSE



Note: You _MUST_ possess a B-Class License before attempting an A-Class

License Test as stated before in all of my GT Documents.



An A-Class License means that you're entitled to participate in an even

more vast array of courses than B-Class License Holders.  You can

participate in any race with the exception of the races that require
an International A Class License.  What this license means to you is that

you've mastered the more advanced techniques of cornering of hairpins,

blind turns, and weird corridors, something that you should be proud of

because you're capable of using an important skill in the world of Gran

Turismo.  Holding an A-Class License, you should be able to do the

following according to Fukumoto Atsushi:



-  Knowing when to start cornering from a gruesomely long straight and

   from extreme high speeds.

-  Able to corner in weird turns, blind corners, complex curves, and any

   difficult corridors at Special Stage Route 11.

-  Being able to avoid spinouts at all costs (Something that is more

   important in the A Class than in the B Class).



And here are the races that you are now able to participate provided

that you have won the A-Class License:


*  The GT League:

   - Clubman Cup

   - GT Cup

*  Special Events:

   - Japanese and American Car Championship

   - Japanese and British Car Championship

   - American and British Car Championship

   - Megaspeed Championship

   - Commercial Car Championship



========================================================================

A-CLASS LICENSE TEST EXAMINATIONS



Note:  In order to start taking these tests, you must pass all eight

B-Class License Tests first.

Index of tests:



A-1: Practical Cornering Part 1

A-2: Practical Cornering Part 2

A-3: Practical Cornering Part 3

A-4: Advanced Cornering Part 1

A-5: Advanced Cornering Part 2

A-6: Advanced Cornering Part 3

A-7: Powersliding

A-8: Coping with Hairpins at High Speeds (Final Exam)



Note:  In order to take A-8, you must pass the first seven tests first.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

A-1: Practical Cornering Part 1

Test Car: Toyota Supra RZ

Time Limit: 34"000

Prerequsite: None

Parts of the Test's Areas:  The final stretch, to the Starting Line,

into the first hairpin of Deep Forest.

------------------------------------------------------------------------



Accelerate, stay low on the final turn at Deep Forest, cut the apex of

the first turn, and cross the finish line.  The straightaway is a lot

longer this time around.  Although it sounds easy, your main concern is

the first hairpin at Deep Forest, where you must keep your speed below

66 mph using out-and-in, slow-in, fast out without going off course, and

since the Supra is on the heavy side (much to the fact that it has an

understeer problem), you need to allow some time to slow down.  Use the

signs to slow down, and definitely brake from the outside of the turn.


Start the turn when you are finished braking.  Keep your foot off the

pedal while braking, though.  Try using rapid-tap when taking on the

turn, but otherwise, it's too hard to explain for now, much to the fact

that you're making an entrance to the first turn of Deep Forest at speeds

of up to 135mph.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

A-2: Practical Cornering Part 2

Test Car: Toyota Supra RZ

Time Limit: 27"000

Prerequsite: None

Parts of the Test's Areas:  The final stretch, to the Starting Line,

into the first hairpin of Autumn Ring.

------------------------------------------------------------------------



Accelerate, cut the apex of the final Ess at Autumn Ring, into the

starting line, cut the apex of the first hairpin, and cross the finish

line.  The straightaway is long enough to make your life miserable, but

shouldn't be as dizzy as with the first one but you still have to be

concerned about the Supra's understeer and fat if you want to avoid any

course-outs on Autumn Ring's first hairpin.  I found the hairpin a lot

sharper than Deep Forest's.  Stay at the left side of the track while on

the straightaway, and try to find a nice braking spot so that you can

brake to no more than 50 mph (slower if you are sloppy), cut the apex,

fast-out as the hairpin terminates, and cross the finish line.  Very

frustrating test as there are no hairpin signs to help you slow down

ahead of time.  Rapid-tap as you go inside the hairpin.  Be careful when

taking on this hairpin because the Supra RZ has a tendency to understeer.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

A-3: Practical Cornering Part 3

Test Car: Mazda RX-7

Time Limit: 44"000

Prerequsite: None

Parts of the Test's Areas:  Right after the worry-aboutie Chicanes, into

the final stretch, through the finish line, onto the bent and the first

hairpin and just before the gentle Ess at Grand Valley Speedway.

------------------------------------------------------------------------



Accelerate, stay low on the final two turns of Grand Valley Speedway,

into the starting line, and onto the gentle left bent and cut the apex

of the first hairpin onto the finishing line.  I really hate this test

because you are taking on a right hairpin turn supported by a left bent.


This is SARCASTICALLY DIZZY because a straight gives you more time to

prepare for the hairpin than a slight bent, but you'll have to worry

about the speed that you're entering the first hairpin since you're

entering this one at 140+ mph.  What I would do is to stay on the right

side of the track, and move towards the left on the gentle bent, and

using out-and-in, I would brake at a straight line to no more than 58

mph (my experimentation's limited here), cut the apex, rapid-tap, and

fast-out of the turn.  Dreadful because the left bent before the hairpin

can throw off your timing pretty easily.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

A-4: Advanced Cornering Part 1

Test Car: Nissan Skyline GTR V Spec

Time Limit: 39"000

Prerequsite: None

Parts of the Test's Areas:  The Tunnel Hairpin, into the kaye right

after the dip, onto the medium right before the tunnel, and finally

into the medium left before the straightaway at Trial Mountain.

------------------------------------------------------------------------



The key to passing this test is to take all turns without any blatant

slowing down.  I consider this a tough test because you need to avoid

hitting the walls.  To pass the test, I would cut the apex of Turn 4 of

Trial Mountain, then I try to use out-and-in, slow-in, fast-out at Turn

5, and take the Medium Right at around 85 mph (rapid-tap if you think

you are going to touch the grass), and cut the apex blatantly (try to

slow down ahead of time) taking the medium left before the straight at

75 mph.  Try to keep a smooth racing line at all costs.  The reasonable

speed of the sharp right is 50 mph.  You may want to try out all turns

at higher speeds if necessary.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

A-5: Advanced Cornering Part 2

Test Car: Honda Prelude

Time Limit: 30"000

Prerequsite: None

Parts of the Test's Areas:  After the second tight hairpin, onto the

Medium Left, onto the Medium Right, and onto the Sharp Left before the

tunnel at Grand Valley Speedway.

------------------------------------------------------------------------



I'm glad that you're given a break here because you're on the wheel of

a front-drive car right now.  The ideal speed for the first two turns

is 85 mph.  I found the medium right a little sharper than the Medium

Left.  Be sure that you take advantage of the Prelude's Front Wheel

Drive while taking on the first two turns.  Try to cut the apex of all

turns.  The third turn before the Tunnel is your main concern.  Cut your

speed to around 50 mph, out-and-in, and fast-out as you exit the turn.


Be careful not to frontup the Tunnel as this is grounds for immediate

fail.  You must be a careful driver in order to take the final sharp

turn of this test with ease and zest!  Powersliding on the final turn

is OK, but be sure that you don't course-out at all, though.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

A-6: Advanced Cornering Part 3

Test Car: Toyota MR2

Time Limit: 27"000

Prerequsite: None

Parts of the Test's Areas:  Into the Deep Forest's Ess before the Medium

Right before the tunnel, onto another Medium Right right after the first

tunnel, onto the second tunnel and into the finish line at Deep Forest.

------------------------------------------------------------------------



Your main concern in this test is the grass on both sides of the track.


Touch the grass too long and you'll fail the test.  Hit the beginning

of the Tunnel and you'll fail the test as well.  Ease up on the Forest

Ess, and at the Left before the First Medium Right, brake slightly at

a straight line, and cut the apex.  Brake to under 70 mph for the first

Medium Left, powerslide, and rapid-tap the pedal to maintain your speed.


Take the second Medium left with out-and-in, slowin-fastout, and cross

the finish line.  Since the time limit's rather short, you need to keep

a smooth racing line for as much as you can.  You may have to increase

your speed as your skills are getting better.  An important rule while

trying to cut the apex during the Forest Ess:  Don't touch the grass

as this is a sign that you are cutting the corners too blatantly.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

A-7: Powersliding

Test Car: Subaru Impreza

Time Limit: 33"000

Prerequsite: None

Parts of the Test's Areas:  This test takes place at a specialized ring

that tests your skill in powersliding.

------------------------------------------------------------------------



No need for a lot of explanations here, since your goal is to simply

powerslide throughout this special sliding area around 5 times.  Be sure

that you average about 6 seconds, and definitely take no more than 8

seconds for the first time around, and 5.5 Seconds for the remainder of

the test.  Spinning-out will result in severe time loss.  You should try

to powerslide all corners at all means.  Failure to turn or blatant apex

cutting will result in a failed test.  Try to stay centered for as much

as you can, and use a lot of rapid-tapping here.  The ideal speed for

each corner would be at around 30 mph.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

A-8: Coping with Hairpins at High Speeds (Final Exam)

Test Car: Toyota Supra RZ

Time Limit: 1'08"000

Prerequsite: Must complete the first 7 A-Class Tests first

Parts of the Test's Areas:  Right after the worry-aboutie Chicane, onto

the final stretch, onto the starting line, into the first hairpin

supported by the gentle left bent, onto the rough Ess Curve, and into

the final hairpin for the finish just before the two Medium Ess Curves

at Grand Valley Speedway.

------------------------------------------------------------------------



This is the most difficult among the eight A-Class Examinations because

you're required to make your entrance towards both hairpins of the Grand

Valley Speedway at speeds of up to 145mph!  Also, the Toyota Supra RZ

is on the heavier side, and has a tendency to understeer, so you may have

to apply a little powersliding with rapid-gas tapping in order to

maintain your speed at the tight hairpins if you want to pass.  Here are

some techniques you need to know if you want to pass, and remember, this

is a difficult test so don't get mad if you can't pass the first couple

of times.



Final stretch of Grand Valley Speedway

--------------------------------------

Stay as low as you can on these two turns, and use the Straightaway to

milk up speed.

The Gentle Left Bent and the Hairpin

------------------------------------

Stay at the right side of the track as you enter the Left Bent so you

can cut the apex at the Left Bent.  Use the final stretch of the Left

Bent to prepare for the hairpin.  The ideal speed for the first hairpin

is under 60 mph and over 55 mph.  Brake as soon as the left bent ends,

and make sure that you keep your foot off the pedal as you brake, and

just before you get to your desired speed, turn gently so that you'll

slide.  Turning too harsh while braking and accelerating will result

in a spin-out, costing precious time.  Rapid-tap during the hairpin

to maintain your speed, and straighten up the car before the Ess.



The Ess

-------

Take on each of the ess out-and-in.  Be careful of the Left Ess before

the straight and the tighter hairpin because you may find yourself

dizzy thereafter.



The Final Hairpin

-----------------

This hairpin is tighter than the first one.  Use the Meter marks to

make yourself a good braking spot so that you can take the hairpin at

speeds of no more than 50 mph.  Use out-and-in, fast-out, and cross

the finish line.  Going too fast or accelerating while taking on this

hairpin results in a course-out.



This test is hectic because you have to cope with the Supra's fat and

understeer.



========================================================================
CLUBMAN CUP


Number of Tracks: 3

Laps per Track: 2

Required Class License: A-Class

Restriction of Car Type: None

Tracks involved: Autumn Ring, Clubman Stage Route 5, Trial Mountain

Pole Position Bonus: 2500 Credits

Finish First in the Track Bonus: 7000 Credits

Series Winner Bonus: 20000 Credits

Car you get for winning the race: Chevrolet Camaro Z28 30th Anniversary

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Vestiroth's note: The Clubman Cup is the next championship that you want

to participate once you have mastered all the B-Class Championship events

provided that you have obtained your A-Class License.  Advanced Skills

are a must here because you're bound to meet up with even more powerful

cars than in the Sunday Cup.  Something to worry about would have to be

the Trial Mountain, which is the track that really tests your racing

prowess here in Gran Turismo as a whole.  I suggest that you have your

car tuned up to the max before going inside this race.  Here's what my

recommended procedures would be if you are to participate in this second

level Gran Turismo League Circuit:



1.  Buy a new Mitsubishi Eclipse.  This is for beginners, but since

    there's no car restrictions, if you already have a Skyline with

    at least half-the-power of a fully-tuned Skyline GTS-R, then you

    won't need the Mitsubishi Eclipse.  Always use the best possible

    car, and feel free to use any car you want here, albeit the car

    restrictions in certain races.



2.  With the Mitsubishi Eclipse, gain your potential by racing in the

    Sunday Cup and on the Front Wheel Drive Special Event.



3.  When you have just about enough dough, it's time to go to the Ralli

    Art at Mitsubishi!



4.  Here's what I want you do from this point on (Remember if you can't

    afford for these parts earlier on, you can always come back later).

    Keep in mind that these are only my recommendations so you should

    experience with different parts throughout your gameplay.  I'm

    thankful to Sam Davis (sdavis1@mail.wsu.edu) because I'm writing

    this FAQ without my Gran Turismo Reference Guide!  Please read his

    Menu Translation Guide at GameFAQs.com:



*  Buy the Sports Muffler

*  Buy the Sports Brake Kit and Brake Balance Controller

*  Buy any Turbo Kit (I do recommend Turbo Kit Level 3 but any Turbo

   Kit is a must!)

*  Buy the Racing Intercooler kit

*  Buy the Racing Support Suspension Kit

*  Buy Hard Stabilizer Kits on both sides of the car

*  Buy Computer Engine Tune-up, Port Polishing, and Engine Balancing

*  Buy Soft Racing Support Tires

*  Buy Racing Support Gearbox, Triple Clutch, Racing Flywheel, and a

   Carbon Driveshaft (if applicable)

*  Undergo all stages of Weight Reduction

*  Transform your Mitsubishi Eclipse into a Racing Eclipse!



Remember you can read Sam Davis's Gran Turismo Menu Translation Guide

if you need a better description of these at http://www.gamefaqs.com.



5.  At the time I first wrote this FAQ, I suggest a fully-powered,

    fully-tuned Eclipse.  However, feel free to experiment with any

    car you want, but be sure your car is powerful enough or you won't

    stand a chance.  Remember this isn't Gran Turismo 2, so you can be

    as unfair as you want with the exception of certain restriction of

    cars that may come aloft later in the game.  This is the beginner's

    approach, though.



6.  This portion of this work will assume that you're driving a fully

    powered Mitsubishi Eclipse, extremely tuned or Racing-compliant.
 
    Please change your strategies depending on the car that you're in.



7.  When you're in a Rear-Wheel Drive Car, try not to overspin the rear

    tires as this tends to be grounds to spin-out habitually.  Always

    ease up on turns when you're in a rear-wheel drive car.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

AUTUMN RING



Turn 1

------

This is a terrible hairpin.  I would try not to slide here since I would

risk going inside the grass (something that you don't want to do anyway)

so it's important that you cut down your speed ahead of time, but beware

that the straightaway is gruesomely long so you may have to cut your

speed as soon as you see the hairpin signs.  I would say about no more

than 47 mph would be a safe speed.  Higher speeds are possible here, but

my experimentation is limited.



Turn 2

------

Take this turn from the out-and-in.  Sliding a bit would be acceptable

as long as you don't go too fast.  Please be aware that you do have to

deal with these two damn chicanes afterwards, so I wouldn't try to go

bonkers on acceleration.



Turns 3-6

---------

This is an excellent area to really mess up so make sure that you try

not to touch the grass as it will cut your speed significantly and

you may even lose control of the car.  You may wish to use out-and-in

but try not to go too fast since these chicanes are rather sharp.  On

the sixth turn, you should try to prepare for the seventh turn, so

don't go bonkers on accelerating.  Try to keep a straight racing line

here for the best results.



Turn 7

------

Sliding is acceptable here as long as you don't go too fast and as

long as you are starting the turn from the outside.  Right after this

turn, have the car straightened, and please behold of the eighth turn

since it's a hairpin, and you've arrived in a really gruesome straight.



Turn 8

------

Make sure that you slow down ahead of time or you'll be going on the

grass and possibly suffer a wall hit.  Since this hairpin is really

tight, don't go any faster than 40 mph.  If you have raced in the

Autumnring-Mini many times, then this should be familiar.



Turn 9

------

Take this turn from the out-and-in.  Although this hairpin isn't as

severe as turns 1 or 8, you need to be watching your speed at all

costs because if you go too fast, then you'll be landing right at the

grass.  I would say that about 55 mph would be a safe speed, though

I can't stress the target speed too much.



Turn 10

-------

If you are a careful driver, then you can overtake this turn at full

speed, but you may or may not need to cut your speed depending on how

early you take this turn.



Turn 11

-------

Here's a turn worth worrying about.  When you see the Mazda Speed sign

hit the top of the screen, cut your speed to ~50 mph and try to keep a

smooth racing line for speed.  Try not to burn the tires because this

is a place where your cornering prowess shows.



Turn 12-14

----------

Beware!  These chicanes are even sharper than the chicanes carried over

from the Autumn Ring Mini Course!  For control, I would slow down ahead

of time and take the left turn smoothly, and treat turns 13 and 14 as

one single turn.  I would try to drift on turn 13 and 14, but this is

just an observation because you may need to adjust your technique

depending on how hot you want to take this turn.



Turn 15

-------

Yep, another sharp.  I would drift from the outside and go into the

inside and by the time I finish drifting, I should have the car

straightened.  When taking on this sharp, avoid contact with the grass

at the left.

Turns 16&17

-----------

This ess can be taken at full speed provided that you're a careful

driver.  Please adjust your skill in this section of this FAQ if you

are just new to Autumn Ring.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

CLUBMAN STAGE ROUTE 5



Turn 1

------

I would slow down just a *bit* so I can prepare to take on Turn 2

without any braking, but you can take this turn in full speed provided

that your speed isn't exceeding the safe speed at Turn 2.



Turn 2

------

I would say that ~90 mph would be a safe speed here.  You can try higher

speeds depending on the car that you are in and depending on your driving

prowess.  You should try to do *controlled* braking here so you don't go

over 100 mph which seems to be unsafe for normal and modified cars.



Turn 3

------

Drift from the outside and into the inside.  You should be at the right

side of the track in preparation for Turn 4, which is pretty dangerous.

Don't go bonkers accelerating here because you have Turn 4 to worry about

immediately after this turn.



Turn 4

------

You should try to cut your speed to ~60 mph here.  Slow down ahead of

time and take this turn from the out-and-in.  Don't slow down too late

or you may be slamming into the wall really hard.



Turn 5

------

Providing that you have taken Turn 4 smoothly, this turn can be taken

with some acceleration.  If you taken Turn 4 horribly, then I don't

have a friggin' clue on how you'll be able to take this turn.



Turns 6&7

---------

This ess can be taken at full speed providing that you are turning

ahead of time and providing that you are taking the turn from the

out-and-in.  Please try to keep a smooth racing line here because
this turns out to be one of the areas where beginners lose control.



Turn 8

------

Slow down ahead of time and start the turn from the right.  Begin

drifting when appropriate.  Try not to go bonkers sliding because

you'll slam into the wall.  Don't accelerate because you have Turn

9 to deal with next.



Turn 9

------

This turn is sharper than Turn 8.  As with Turn 8, take this turn

out-and-in and by drifting.  You need to go slower than in Turn 9

(but not too slow that the drones are harassing you) in order to set
up
for the acceleration at the straightaway.  When you overtake Turn 1

on the next lap, you need to slow down at Turn 1 so you can keep a

smooth racing line at Turn 2.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

TRIAL MOUNTAIN



I hope you hate Trial Mountain, but really, I personally hate Trial

Mountain.



Turn 1&2

--------

This ess can be taken in full speed.  However, I wouldn't recommend

going faster than ~120 because the left turn is filled with a slant that

leaves a lot to be desired.



Turns 3&4

---------

Providing that you turn ahead of time, these turns can be taken at full

speed.  Don't grow too overconfident because you have Turn 5 to chew at

immediately in the middle of Turn 4.



Turn 5

------

For control, I would try to slow down as early as appropriate so I don't

touch the grass after this turn.  This is a devious hairpin and you

shouldn't take out this hairpin too hot.  Afterwards, you will be taking

a dip as you straighten up the car.



A note from Vestiroth:  Even though I touched the grass after the turn,

I've managed to get my car back into gear in preparation of Turn 6.



Turn 6

------

Slow down to ~50 mph so you can take on this sharp right without having

to touch the grass at your left.  Cut your speed preferrably after the

dip (but you have to allow more time depending on what car you drive)

and take this turn from the out and in.



Turns 7&8

---------

Keep a smooth driving line because you'll be carrying more control at

Turn 9.  If you slip out of control, then I don't have an idea on how

you will be taking Turn 9.

Turn 9

------

I wouldn't take this turn any faster than ~80 mph.  I would take this

turn with some slight skidding.  I should have the car straightened up

by the time I undertake Turn 10.  Don't slow down too much here as

this turn isn't sharp as you think it's supposed to be.



Turn 10

-------

Slow down to ~80 mph just before you exit the tunnel, skid throughout

nearly all of the turn.  By the time you reach the straightaway, you

should have the car straightened up.  On Turn 11, you'll have to slow

down ahead of time since this straightaway is gruesomely long.



Turn 11

-------

By the time you see some sections of this turn, slow down to ~70 mph,

and try to cut the apex but don't scrape the wall.  Sliding's OK as

long as you don't go too fast.



Turns 12&13

-----------

Keep a smooth driving line because you'll need the control you need

by the time you reach Turn 14, which is a deadly hairpin.  Remember,

the more control you carry towards Turn 14, the better you will

corner.



Turn 14

-------

You need to be going no faster than 70 mph to avoid a possible wall

hit at the left.  At the right of you is grass, which you should try

to avoid.  You should try to slow down as soon as you finish Turn 13

so you won't have to worry a lot about the wall or the grass.  Don't

start the turn too early or you'll lawnmown to the max.



Turn 15

-------

This is a great way to slow down ahead of time.  Cut your speed to

~60 mph and start the turn from the out and take the turn from the

inside.  You should have the car straightened up and you should be

back on the right by the time you are at the final stretch.



Turns 16&17

-----------

This Ess is much harder than the first Ess.  You should try not to go

any faster than 110 mph.  Slow down as you are getting closer to the

Ess, and try to turn ahead of time so that you don't touch the grass

on either side of the track.  If you took the turns too early, then

you may be taking an unneccessary dip that may throw you out of
control.



========================================================================

GT CUP


Number of Tracks: 4

Laps per Track: 3

Required Class License: A-Class

Restriction of Car Type: No restriction on the car you want to use in

this championship.

Tracks involved: Grand Valley Speedway, Special Stage Route 5, Deep

Forest, Trial Mountain (WHY?!)

Pole Position Bonus: 5000 Credits

Finish First in the Track Bonus: 10000 Credits

Series Winner Bonus: 25000 Credits

Car you get for winning the race: A Toyota Chaser Limited Edition is

what you get for winning the series.  Sell this lemon back to Toyota

because this is a car that you don't want.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Vestiroth's note: The GT Cup is the first track to feature insanely

tuned cars which can pose a threat to your domination potential if you

don't have the correct car with you.  Entering this track, I'm assuming

that you *can* afford a Toyota Castrol Supra GT or a Subaru Impreza

Rally Edition.  I highly recommend the Subaru Impreza Rally Edition.  On

the other hand, the Subaru Impreza Rally Edition isn't good because of

its poor top speed (160 mph).  If you do have one, the I would either

throw the Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo, a Mitsubishi GTO MR, or any car

that has enough power to maintain your domination in the game, but stable

enough to keep a smooth racing line.  Why not use this series to build

up your skill in preparation of the Japanese-American Sports Car series?

The Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition remains one of my favorites in this

franchise, and I really don't know why the FTO LM was placed as a hidden

car in Gran Turismo 2.  Here are the recommendations:



1.  Develop your well-being even further in Gran Turismo in the Sunday

    or Clubman Cup (I recommend the Clubman Cup because I'm assuming

    that you *do* have the A-Class License).  Gain all the skills you

    want so you can take them to test in the Gran Turismo Cup.



2.  I'm hoping that you have severe amount of dough in your pocket

    because I'm gonna lead you to the most expensive models in the

    game.  Also, I'm gonna push you to severely tune up any car that

    was purchased as a normal car.  Ready?



3.  Once you get 500,000 credits, I'm hoping that you'll shop around

    for either a Toyota Castrol Supra GT, a Mitsubishi GTO Limited

    Edition, a Nissan Nismo GT-R Limited Edition, a Mazda RX-7

    Limited Edition, a Subaru Impreza Limited Edition (the only low

    point I have of this car is its rather mediocre top speed), or
    an Acura NSX-R Limited Edition GT2.  If not, then look around

    for a Nissan Skyline GT-R V-Spec or a Mitsubishi GTO MR_Twin

    Turbo.  Heavily tune them up so you can hit over 800 horses!

    Now make them race-proud so you can get a loving disadvantage

    against the competition!  You're going to do some heavy dough

    spending while trying to tune up your Nissan Skyline GT-R VSpec

    and/or your Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo/MR, so have credits ready

    to burn.



4.  With these cars, get used to them by racing several times at the

    Clubman Cup.  Once you get used to them, it's time to blow their

    poor arses away at the GT Cup.



Another Note from Vestiroth:  The reason why I want you to have the

best possible cars is because I want you to have an unfair advantage

against the competition.  Unfair is best.  You'll notice that. :)



5.  This portion of the FAQ assumes that you're using the rather

    mediocre Subaru Impreza Rally Edition.  Although the top speed

    leaves a lot to be desired, it's still a formidable car to have.



6.  You need to adjust your skills just a bit from this FAQ depending

    on the car that you are riding on.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

GRAND VALLEY SPEEDWAY



Grand Valley Speedway is 15 times harder than Grand Valley East because

there's plenty sharp turns and two hairpins that compel you to slow down

as early as you can because you're bound to enter these hairpins at high

speeds.  Now, as a Subaru Impreza Rally Edition driver, beginners need

some assistance in order to complete this track without heavy damage.



Turn 1

------

Being dizzy right after starting will make you uncomfortable on the

second turn, which is a hairpin.  You'll want to cut your speed as soon

as you finish up taking on the gentle left so that you'll have your

speed *reasonably* reduced by the time you take on the first hairpin

turn in the track.



Turn 2

------
If you were able to cut your speed (I recommend releasing the gas pedal

and by the time you hit the *slight* straight brake to ~60 mph and do

some sliding) as you were taking on the first turn in preparation of

this hairpin, then great.  If not, then be prepared to either touch

the dirt or deal with a spinout!  It's important that you cut your

speed (if you're going over 120 mph at the start of Turn 1) as early

as Turn 1, and start reacting by the time you reach Turn 2 so you can

allow some room for error by the time you reach the next straight, a

gateway to a rather gruesome S-curve coming up.



Turns 3-5

---------

Although this Ess can be taken at full speed, be aware that you'll

need to probably be sliding on Turn 5 in order to avoid any unwanted

dipping and contact with the racing slant at the left or right side

of the track.  If you did not turn ahead of time at Turn 5, then

you're bound to touch some grass, and eventually wind up spinning out

of control.  You'll need to be in good shape when you take on a really

nasty hairpin, in the name of Turn 6.



Turn 6

------

Ancient words of wisdom:  Slow down ahead of time for control.  By the

start of the hairpin, your speed shouldn't be exceeding 42 mph.  Take

the hairpin from the outside and slowly move to the inside, but don't

touch the slant as you'll take an unwanted dip right there.  Don't let

the next straight fool you as you'll have to take on a rather *sharp*

left.



Turn 7

------

I would slide this lamer and start sliding from the outside of the

turn and work my way to the inside, making sure that my wheels are

*next* to the slant, but not touching it.  I should be staying near

the leftmost side of the track when I finish this turn because Turn

8 is coming up.



Turn 8

------

As with Turn 7, I would slide and take this turn from the outside and

work my way to the inside, making sure that my wheels are near the

slant (but not touching it), and continue to stay near the rightmost

side of the track because Turn 9 is coming up, and believe me, Turn 9

is a sharp left (a carryover from the Sunday Cup and all other B-Class

Races).  Turn 8 is indeed a lot deadlier than Turn 7 so you may have

to go slower on this turn as opposed to Turn 7.



Turn 9

------

Deadly Sharp Left.  Before you enter this turn, make sure that you're

not going any faster than ~50 mph.  Start the turn from the outside,

work your way inside.  If you performed this turn correctly, then you

should *barely* miss the wall.  If you took this turn lousy, then be

prepared to hit the wall or spin out.  Try not to slide here because

that's where beginners tend to overspeed and overslide, causing major

spinouts and problems that may show your vulnerability towards your

opponents.



Turn 10

-------

As deadly as this painfully sharp left may seem, it seems to be a *bad*

hairpin in disguise (but shouldn't be that bad).  Try to slow down as

early as you can so you don't have to overslide and spin out on this

turn.  I would say that ~60 mph would be safe (safe enough to avoid the

grass at the right), though my experimentation's been limited.  If you

are going too fast or skidding too sloppy, then a nice Tunnel Wall is

waiting for you at the start of Turn 11.



Turn 11

-------

If you have taken Turn 10 neatly, great.  At Turn 11, don't go any

slower than 90 mph.  I would slide throughout the turn and possibly

use a *little* rapid gas tapping so that I don't accelerate until

after the turn finishes and the straightaway begins.  Use the straight

before Turn 12 efficiently because at Turn 12, you'll have to cut your

speed *just a little* before the straight terminates.



Turn 12

-------

Is your speed cut to ~110 by the time the turn started?  Well, do some

*controlled* rapid gas tapping as the turn keeps "going and going" and

refrain from accelerating until the turn ends.  Failure to do this will

result in rail contact at the left, which may damage your tires.



Turns 13 and 14

---------------

No matter what kind of Gran Turismo Player you consider yourself, this

is something to worry about in Grand Valley Speedway.  Cut your speed

to ~74 mph *as* you enter the first turn.  Drift throughout the first

turn using out-and-in.  You should not be going over ~60 mph on average

during the first turn, although I'm saying ~74 mph (you lose speed as

you slide).  On Turn 14, cut your speed to around ~50 mph, take the turn

from the out-and-in, and refrain from accelerating until after you

complete this turn.  You should be at around ~40 mph by the time your

at the final stretch (You tend to lose lots of speed here, so don't go

too fast as these turns are hairpins in nature).



Turn 15

-------

The key here is to take this turn without any unneccessary slowing down

or having to touch the grass on either side.  I would say that ~130 mph

with some sliding (assuming that you started turning as the turn starts)
would be safe enough to avoid the slant and grass at the left.  On the

second and third lap, you'll need to be careful when taking on Turns 1

and 2 because you may be at about 175 mph (on Class A Cars) by the time

you enter this area once again.  Don't act like a drunk driver in this

track because the competition's much more powerful than in the Sunday

and Clubman Cup.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

DEEP FOREST



I think Deep Forest is horrible for the following reason:  GRASS AND

EVEN MORE GRASS EVERYWHERE!!!!!!!!  It's important that you don't wind

up going in the grass as you will lose speed while taking a turn, so

make sure that you do your very best to avoid the grass at all costs.



Turn 1

------

Starting races with tight hairpins isn't my kind of fun.  Cut your speed

during the two hairpin signs and if you don't want to skid, don't go any

faster than 60 mph, but if you want to skid, then you may want to say

about 70 mph, although my experimentation is rather limited.



Turns 2&3

---------

Keep you car under control, and definitely stay off the grass at the

left and right side of the screen because that's when your worries

begin.  Turn 3 is more sarcastic than Turn 2, so you may have to slow

down at either Turn 2 or 3 to keep your car under control.  However,

you will have to worry about Turn 4 because Turn 4 is a rather *sharp*

left that you have to chew on, and you got a killer tunnel coming up

just before Turn 5.



Turn 4

------

Cut your speed *immediately* after you exit Turn 3, but don't slant

the wheels to the left because you'll hit the wall and touch the grass

so make sure that you're slanting the front wheels to the right as you

prepare for this turn.  You need to be going no faster than 65 mph and

you should try to drift as much as you can in order to avoid any grass

contact and possibly a hit right at the tunnel entrance wall, which

causes serious delays.



Turn 5

------

You should be ready to drift from this corner as soon as you are about

to exit the tunnel.  Cut your speed *as you leave the tunnel* and drift

on this turn.  I would say that 72 mph would be reasonable but you can

take this turn at higher speeds, although I don't recommend taking this

turn too hot.



Turn 6 & 7

----------

You will have yet another sharp to deal with so don't go overconfident

with the easy right.  Try to slow down as early as just before the

easy right so you'll have control by the time you hit the sharp left.

You shouldn't be going any faster than roughly 50 mph by the time you

hit Turn 7.  Be careful that you don't go inside the grass.  By the

time you enter the interlude before Turn 8, you should have the car

straightened up.



Turn 8

------

Although this turn can be taken at full speed, I strongly recommend

that you take this turn with some *controlled* braking and steering,

just a precaution that you don't hit the wall at the right.  If you

done the drifting and braking right, then you should be able to avoid

the wall at the right.



Turns 9-11

----------

This part of the track is as close as a straightaway you'll find in

this track, so use this part of the track wisely.  Make sure that you

are turning *slightly* during the easy turns, making sure that you are

not hitting the walls.  Turn 11 is where you should be doing the worry

abouties because you're going to face a fierce left right after the

easy right, so be sure that you're slowing down as you are about to

finish the easy right but not too early that you're losing control of

the car.



Turn 12

-------

If you have done a *controlled* slowing down as early as the conclusion

of Turn 11, then you should begin to do even more braking.  You should

be drifting a little as you undertake this turn.  I would say that 80

mph would be a good speed, but you need to be drifting so you can avoid

the grass at the right.  Please don't accelerate until you finish taking

on this turn.  If you slow down too late, then you're bound to hit walls

and mow some grass!



Turn 13

-------

Take this turn at full speed, trying to avoid the grass.  By the time

you finish this turn, you don't have to worry about the grass at the

left and right side of the track anymore.  JOY!



Turn 14

-------

Cut your speed to ~120 mph and I would take this turn by out-and-in, and

with heavy skidding.  When you get inside of the straightaway, you need

to have the car straightened.  Gotta be careful when drifting because

poor timing of taking this final turn will result in either unnecessary

dipping or grass contact, which ruins your performance greatly.  I'm

trying to make sure that you're staying competitive here.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 5



Turn 1

------

Although you can take this turn in full speed, you need to start your

slowing down as early as this turn so you can take Turn 2 without having

to hit the wall, which wears out your tires.  It's important that you

slow down as early as Turn 1 so you will not be hitting the tunnel wall

or slanting the car at an unnecessary position during Turn 2.



Turn 2

------

Since I'm riding on the Subaru Impreza Rally Edition, I would say that

115 mph would be a safe speed.  Rapid tap the gas pedal so you don't

wind up scrapping the right wall.  You might have to apply some braking

if appropriate.



Turn 3

------

Take the turn from the out-and-in.  Controlled braking should keep your

car under control and prepared for Turn 4.  As long as you skid, you

should not be hitting the wall.  If you are inside by the time Turn 3

starts, then I don't have an idea on how you will be able to cope with

the turn.



Turn 4

------

Slow ahead of time by braking hard as the turn begins, skid as much

as you can, but don't skid too much here because Turn 5 is coming up,

and you want to take this turn as smooth as you can.  I would say the

ideal speed here would be ~70 mph with some skidding, but that would

throw you at the inside by the time you reach Turn 5, so you have to

adjust your tactic on this crappy turn depending on your own personal

experience.



Turn 5

------

Providing that you have taken Turn 4 smoothly, this turn can be taken

with some acceleration.  If you taken Turn 4 horribly, then I don't

have a friggin' clue on how you'll be able to take this turn.



Turns 6&7

---------

This ess can be taken at full speed providing that you are turning

ahead of time and providing that you are taking the turn from the

out-and-in.  Please try to keep a smooth racing line here because

this turns out to be one of the areas where beginners lose control.

You need to be careful not to hit the railing by the time you complete

Turn 7 because if you do, then you'll be sorry.



Turns 8&9

---------

The following two turns can be taken with some controlled skidding.

You should try to brake hard ahead of time at Turn 8 so that you don't

hit the left wall.  Make sure that your car is in good shape so that

you can skid Turn 9 without any problems.  Taking the turns out-and-in

style is OK as long as you don't start the turn too early, which may

cause a spin-out.



Turn 10

-------

Killer Hairpin.  Brake *HARD* so you can take this hairpin without

hitting the wall.  Don't undertake this hairpin too early or that

mistake would mean your last.  Don't skid as you may risk hitting the

wall at the right.  I would say that 40 mph without skidding would be

safe.  Don't use full acceleration until after you pass the hairpin.



Turn 11

-------

You may wish to accelerate in this turn, but IMHO you need to be

skidding here so you don't have to hit the wall at the left side of

the track, so be prepared to drift as you accelerate back to your

usual speed.  By the time you are about to reach Turn 12, you should

have the car straightened so you can drift once again without any
trouble.



Turn 12

-------

Take this turn from the out-and-in, and drift with zest so you don't

hit the wall at the left or lose any much needed control.  It's

important that you have the car straightened up by the time you meet

up with the worst area in the track--THE FINAL STRETCH!!!!



Turns 13-15

-----------

Worst part of the track.  You need to slow down as early as the

painted crosswalk so you can set up for Turn 15, which is a rather

nasty right.  Try not to go any faster than 60 mph on the first two

turns, and when you are about to take Turn 15, you need to be drifting

with zest and not accelerating until you have the car straightened up

but I find this part to be pretty nasty because your timing may be poor

by the time you enter this area.  This part really demands good timing

and practice in order to avoid hitting the walls during the triangle.



Turn 16

-------

Pretty long Medium Right.  You may need to do some skidding, or you

may not go any faster than 85 mph because this seems to be sharper than

I thought.  You can skid, as long as you don't go too fast.  Don't try

to accelerate until after the turn and after you have the car back to

stance.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

TRIAL MOUNTAIN



You should be familiar with this course because you're actually doing a

skill transfer from the Clubman Cup to the GT Cup.  The tactics you saw

on the Clubman Cup portion of this FAQ was for the Mitsubishi Eclipse.

Now you'll have to perform an extra lap, and now I'm using the Subaru

Impreza Rally Edition on this course!  Entering this course, you should

be able to handle the rough turns in this course efficiently.  Learn

how Trial Mountain's supposed to be done at the Clubman Cup.



Turn 1&2

--------

Take the left turn from the out and in, making sure that you're turning

ahead of time.  Please be aware that you may bounce when you try to cut

the apex on the first part of the ess so be prepared to keep a firm

grip of the steering wheel.  The second part of the ess can be taken at

full speed provided that you've been under control of your car at the

first part of the ess.  For control, I wouldn't go any faster than ~120

mph with some *controlled* steering applied here.



Turns 3&4

---------

You should be able to take Turn 3 at full speed.  However, when you

undertake Turn 4, you should try to prepare to take Turn 5 so you don't

end up hitting the wall or grass after the tunnel.  Try to cut your

speed as soon as you get a fair view of the tunnel so you don't skid

too hard.



Turn 5

------

You shouldn't be going any faster than ~60 mph-~70 mph while inside the

tunnel.  Be sure that you do not accelerate until after the turn.  Now

I will have to warn you that *you will be taking a dip* right after

this turn so you will need to keep a firm grip of your car providing

that you finish undertaking this turn.



Turn 6

------

Don't ever, ever, ever go any faster than ~50 mph because if you do,

then you could either hit the wall or mown the grass (something that

you don't want to do).  Slow down as you are taking a slight dip, then

begin drifting as soon as you get to your desired speed.  Try to take

the turn from the out-and-in so you will have a great deal of speed to

chew in by the time you exit this turn.  If you get inside the grass,

make sure that you get out of this grass as soon as you can.  Please

don't accelerate until after the turn.



Turns 7&8

---------

You can take these turns at full speed, but make sure that you're

alert of Turn 9, which comes up shortly after this gentle ess.  Cut

your speed as soon as you exit out of Turn 8.



Turn 9

------

Cut your speed to ~90 mph ahead of time and as the turn starts, you

should try to skid as much as you can during this turn (although you

shouldn't do this because you're melting the tires).  Once you're in

the tunnel, you should try to prepare to undertake Turn 10 so that

you're not so wrapped up in your success of undertaking this turn.



Vestiroth:  On Trial Mountain, you should not be overconfident after

you undertake any turn successfully because there's bound to be turns

following the next, which makes this course a test of racing prowess.



Turn 10

-------

Brake to no less than 80 mph and start skidding inside to the next

tunnel.  Although this turn isn't difficult, you need to be sliding

and your speed must not be exceeding 85 mph by all means.  Please

make sure that your taking this turn as early as possible so you'll

have some speed to chew from at the long straightaway.



Vestiroth:  Trust me.  You'll hate the Impreza Rally Edition for its

160 mph barrier after driving this lamer on the straight before Turn
11.



Turn 11

-------

The best time to cut your speed is when you see some sections of this

rather sharp turn.  When the turn's about to start, you should be at

no more than 90 mph, skidding throughout most of the turn, and never

accelerating until after the turn.  If you can go inside the yellow

OSHA lane, then it's a good thing because you're attempting to keep

a smooth racing line, something that's important in Gran Turismo.



Turns 12&13

-----------

Since you're inside a four-wheel driver, you should have no problem

keeping a smooth racing line in preparation of Turn 14.  Turn 13

seems to be more dangerous than Turn 12 because the turn's sharper

than in Turn 12, but the turn shouldn't be too bad providing that

you're alert of the turn at all times.



Turn 14

-------

Ancient words of wisdom:  Don't go any faster than 70 mph.  Cut

your speed as soon as you finish Turn 13 (but don't brake the car

that you're slanting to the left side of the track).  Cut the apex

but don't go inside the grass.  Try to skid as much as you can in

this hairpin.  By the time you get out of this turn, you should have

barely missed the edge of the track, and you should have the car

straightened.  Don't let the straight fool you because you're about

to face yet ANOTHER HAIRPIN in the *blue*.



Turn 15

-------

You will be carrying a good amount of speed if you try to keep a smooth

line as much as you can in this turn.  Try not to drift because not

only you will burn and melt the tires, but you risk going inside the

grass which you don't want to do.  So keep a smooth racing line.  Slow

down as soon as you see some sections of the hairpin (but don't slow

down too early).  Take the turn from the outside and into the inside.

You shouldn't be going any faster than ~70 mph.  By the time you exit

the turn, you should be accelerating and staying alert of the final

ess, which IMHO is the worst part of Trial Mountain.



Turns 16&17

-----------

Don't go any faster than 110 mph here.  Try to cut both Esses from the

out and in, making sure that you turn ahead of time to avoid any dipping

and jumping (which is unnessary) from the brink of error.  The best time

to slow down is just a *little* after you pass the tunnel.  Keep the car

straight whenever you slow down because if you slant the car while you

brake, you may end up screwing up big time!



Vestiroth:  This is the horrible area of the game because there's grass

on both sides of the ess, and you may take an unneccessary jump if you

go inside the grass and eventually lose control, so don't take this ess

at full speed.



========================================================================
JAPANESE AND AMERICAN CAR CHAMPIONSHIP


Number of Tracks: 5
Laps per Track: 3

Required Class License: A-Class

Restriction of Car Type: Mitsubishi, Honda, Acura, Toyota, Subaru,

Nissan, Mazda, Chevrolet, and Dodge brand cars only.

Tracks involved: Trial Mountain Reverse, Special Stage Route 5, High

Speed Ring, Grand Valley East Reverse, Special Stage Route 11

Pole Position Bonus: 5000 Credits

Finish First in the Track Bonus: 10000 Credits

Series Winner Bonus: 20000 Credits

Car you get for winning the race: Either the Mitsubishi FTO Limited

Edition or the Dodge Viper GTS-R.  The Mitsubishi FTO LM is my personal

favorite.  While the Dodge Viper GTS-R is a good car, as with all rear

wheel cars, you have to treat the GTS-R with a lot of respect, so the

GTS-R is not a car for beginners.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

Vestiroth's note: This is a nuisance because you've got some Racing

Cars to deal with.  In order to keep up with the competition, I would

really rely on a powerful Japanese Car because they seem to handle much

bettern than the Americans do.  Since the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition

is my personal favorite car in the game, you will need a very powerful

car in order to dominate the series.  Here's what you need to know:



1.  You can either buy a Mitsubishi GTO Twinturbo, but if you already

    have a Nissan Skyline, it works too.  Be sure that you are only

    purchasing the all-wheel drive versions of the GTO Twinturbo and

    the Skylines.  If you already purchased and fully modified your

    Nissan Skyline, disregard these notices.



2.  If you purchased the Mitsubishi GTO Twinturbo, then try to improve

    your skills at the GT Cup.  Hopefully, you've got a Toyota Castrol

    Supra GT or a Subaru Impreza Rally Edition on your garage to

    dominate the GT Cup!  Use these cars to earn your dough on the GT

    Cup.



3.  Try to have as many credits as you can because you're going to do

    some expensive tuning at the Ralli Art!



4.  Here's what I want you do from this point on (Remember if you can't

    afford for these parts earlier on, you can always come back later).

    Keep in mind that these are only my recommendations so you should

    experience with different parts throughout your gameplay.  I'm

    thankful to Sam Davis (sdavis1@mail.wsu.edu) because I'm writing

    this FAQ without my Gran Turismo Reference Guide!  Please read his

    Menu Translation Guide at GameFAQs.com:



*  Buy the Sports Muffler

*  Buy the Sports Brake Kit and Brake Balance Controller

*  Buy any Turbo Kit.
*  Buy the Racing Intercooler kit

*  Buy the Racing Support Suspension Kit

*  Buy Hard Stabilizer Kits on both sides of the car

*  Buy Computer Engine Tune-up, Port Polishing, and Engine Balancing

*  Buy Soft Racing Support Tires

*  Buy Racing Support Gearbox, Triple Clutch, Racing Flywheel, and a

   Carbon Driveshaft (if applicable)

*  Undergo all stages of Weight Reduction

*  Transform your Mitsubishi GTO Twinturbo into a 240 mph screamer!



Remember you can read Sam Davis's Gran Turismo Menu Translation Guide

if you need a better description of these at http://www.gamefaqs.com.



5.  From this point on, you can throw this car on any of these circuits:


   -  Japanese and American Car Championship

   -  Japanese and British Car Championship

   -  Megaspeed Championship

6.  Hopefully, your Mitsubishi GTO Twinturbo is strong enough in this

    circuit.  However, if you already have a powerful Nissan Skyline

    GTS-R (All-Wheel Drive), then you should use the Skyline instead.

    This isn't my favorite series, but if you have a very good Japanese

    car, then you should be OK.



7.  This part of the FAQ assumes that you're driving a heavily-tuned,

    racing-compliant Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo.  You will need to change

    your strategies a bit if you are driving other cars.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

TRIAL MOUNTAIN REVERSE



Trial Mountain Reverse is even harder than the original Trial Mountain,

and beginners will need to follow this guide in order to get away from

this track without much damage.  All Country versus Country races begin

in this track, and that's one of the reasons why the series can get

bloody at times.



Turns 1 and 2

-------------

The key to success in these turns is to cut the apex as much as possible

without touching the slant and without any blatant slowdown.  I would

say that 100 mph (approx) would be safe, although higher speeds may be

possible, depending on your expertise and racing prowess.



Turn 3

------

Cut your speed to around 70 mph and take this turn from the outside to

the inside.  Try not to touch the slant at the right side of the track

since this makes your car unstable.  You should have the car back in

straight condition when you take on Turn 4.



Turn 4

------

Do the same thing as with Turn 3, but this time around, stay off the

slant at the left side of the track, since your car may "bounce" up

and down (causing you to lose control).  Sliding's acceptable, as

long as you don't turn too sloppy on this turn.



Turns 5 and 6

-------------

Try to keep a smooth racing line as much as you can to maximize speed

and make sure that you stay off the walls (since they may be a problem

to most of you).  Gently turn ahead of time as each turn starts and
by the time you finish Turn 6, you should have the car in straight

standing to prepare yourself for Turn 7.



Turn 7

------

You will be able to get inside the rightmost side of the track if you

can slow down ahead of time.  I would say that around 80 mph would be

safe.  Make sure that you do not accelerate until after the turn.



Turn 8

------

Since I'm inside an All Wheel Drive car, I would brake while I'm inside

the tunnel, and begin turning as the tunnel ends.  As with all turns,

do not accelerate until after you're confident enough that you're not

gonna be hitting any slants as you enter another tunnel.  I would say

that 100 mph would be safe for this turn.



Turn 9

------
The key to undertaking this turn is to skid here without any blatant

loss of speed.  I would say that just *a little* under 90 mph would be

fine to avoid hitting any wall or touching any grass, although you need

to adjust this based upon your expertise.



Turns 10 and 11

---------------

Ease up on these turns as much as you can.  By the time you finish up

taking on Turn 11, you need to have your car in a straight line in order

to slow down at Turn 12, which is a deadly hairpin.



Turn 12

-------

You will carry more control if you cut your speed in a straight line,

making sure that you are not over 50 mph as you take on this turn, and

you cut the apex (while avoiding the walls, grass, and slants).  Do not

accelerate until after the turn.  Please be aware that Turn 13 follows

this turn almost immediately.



Turn 13

-------

You need to start drifting just before the dip.  Yank the car to the

right *just right* in order to avoid hitting the slant or going off

the track.  By the time you finish this turn, you should have the car

straightened and regained control of your vehicle.



Turn 14

-------

Start turning ahead of time, and move from the left side of the track

to the right side of the track.  You should be careful not to hit the

slant at the right side of the track as you may take an unnecessary

dip.  You will need as much control as you can when you reach Turns

15 and 16, so negotiate this turn with zest, and don't go too fast.



Turns 15 and 16

---------------

The key to success on these turns is to cut the apex of each of these

turns without any contact with the slants, and by going around 120 mph

during both of these turns.  When the left turn starts, yank the wheel

gently, and when the right turn starts, you may need to apply some

braking and drift during the final turn.  By the time you're ready to

cross the finish line, you should be back in control.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 5



Turn 1

------

Although you can take this turn in full speed, you need to start your

slowing down as early as this turn so you can take Turn 2 without having

to hit the wall, which wears out your tires.  It's important that you

slow down as early as Turn 1 so you will not be hitting the tunnel wall

or slanting the car at an unnecessary position during Turn 2.



Turn 2

------

Since I'm riding on the Subaru Impreza Rally Edition, I would say that

115 mph would be a safe speed.  Rapid tap the gas pedal so you don't

wind up scrapping the right wall.  You might have to apply some braking

if appropriate.



Turn 3

------

Take the turn from the out-and-in.  Controlled braking should keep your

car under control and prepared for Turn 4.  As long as you skid, you

should not be hitting the wall.  If you are inside by the time Turn 3

starts, then I don't have an idea on how you will be able to cope with

the turn.



Turn 4

------

Slow ahead of time by braking hard as the turn begins, skid as much

as you can, but don't skid too much here because Turn 5 is coming up,

and you want to take this turn as smooth as you can.  I would say the

ideal speed here would be ~70 mph with some skidding, but that would

throw you at the inside by the time you reach Turn 5, so you have to

adjust your tactic on this crappy turn depending on your own personal
experience.



Turn 5

------

Providing that you have taken Turn 4 smoothly, this turn can be taken

with some acceleration.  If you taken Turn 4 horribly, then I don't

have a friggin' clue on how you'll be able to take this turn.



Turns 6&7

---------

This ess can be taken at full speed providing that you are turning

ahead of time and providing that you are taking the turn from the
out-and-in.  Please try to keep a smooth racing line here because

this turns out to be one of the areas where beginners lose control.

You need to be careful not to hit the railing by the time you complete

Turn 7 because if you do, then you'll be sorry.



Turns 8&9

---------

The following two turns can be taken with some controlled skidding.

You should try to brake hard ahead of time at Turn 8 so that you don't

hit the left wall.  Make sure that your car is in good shape so that

you can skid Turn 9 without any problems.  Taking the turns out-and-in

style is OK as long as you don't start the turn too early, which may

cause a spin-out.



Turn 10

-------

Killer Hairpin.  Brake *HARD* so you can take this hairpin without

hitting the wall.  Don't undertake this hairpin too early or that

mistake would mean your last.  Don't skid as you may risk hitting the

wall at the right.  I would say that 40 mph without skidding would be

safe.  Don't use full acceleration until after you pass the hairpin.



Turn 11

-------

You may wish to accelerate in this turn, but IMHO you need to be

skidding here so you don't have to hit the wall at the left side of

the track, so be prepared to drift as you accelerate back to your

usual speed.  By the time you are about to reach Turn 12, you should

have the car straightened so you can drift once again without any

trouble.



Turn 12

-------

Take this turn from the out-and-in, and drift with zest so you don't

hit the wall at the left or lose any much needed control.  It's

important that you have the car straightened up by the time you meet

up with the worst area in the track--THE FINAL STRETCH!!!!



Turns 13-15

-----------

Worst part of the track.  You need to slow down as early as the

painted crosswalk so you can set up for Turn 15, which is a rather

nasty right.  Try not to go any faster than 60 mph on the first two

turns, and when you are about to take Turn 15, you need to be drifting

with zest and not accelerating until you have the car straightened up

but I find this part to be pretty nasty because your timing may be poor

by the time you enter this area.  This part really demands good timing

and practice in order to avoid hitting the walls during the triangle.



Turn 16

-------

Pretty long Medium Right.  You may need to do some skidding, or you

may not go any faster than 85 mph because this seems to be sharper than

I thought.  You can skid, as long as you don't go too fast.  Don't try

to accelerate until after the turn and after you have the car back to

stance.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

HIGH SPEED RING



The High Speed Ring is an easy course to lose in if you're inside a lame

vehicle like the Honda Civic and the Chevrolet Camaro.  You will need to

keep a straight racing line as much as possible so you don't fall behind

the competition who shows no mercy here because they tend to show their

prowess and if you goof up, chances are that you won't be able to win.

Advancing to the High Speed Ring, I'm assuming that you do know how to

drive a Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo with all the works.  Learn how to

drive a heavily-chachinated Mitsubishi GTO at the Megaspeed Cup.



Turn 1

------

Take this turn at full speed.  Be sure at the final stretch of the turn

that you *slightly* slow down so you don't have to worry about hitting

the wall at the right by the time the turn ends.



Turn 2

------

You may want to brake as late as possible so that you can skid here at

higher speeds.  Be sure that you are taking this turn out-and-in, and

by the time you leave the turn, you should prepare for Turns 3 and 4

without much trouble.  Have the car straightened.



Turns 3 and 4

-------------

You may have to do some *blatant* slow down here since these turns are

the most dangerous turns in the track.  I would cut my speed to around

90 mph so I won't be touching the grass or hitting the wall.  Try to

do some rapid gas tapping in this area.  A feel of the gas is required

to ensure control of the Mitsubishi GTO at all costs.



Turn 5

------

Provided that you took Turns 3 and 4 without any blatant trouble, this

would be a good place to prepare for Turn 6.  Stay to the right side

of the track, making sure that you *barely* miss the grass at the right

side of the track.  When Turn 6 starts, you should try to slow down in

a straight line and start taking Turn 6 from the outside and into the

inside.



Turn 6

------

Provided that you have slowed down to ~120 mph, you can take this turn

without having to release the gas pedal.  Make sure that you speed out

if necessary if you feel that you're going to get closer to the wall

at the right.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

GRAND VALLEY EAST REVERSE



Much bizarre than Grand Valley East, GVE Reverse provides some weird

turns, but as long as you don't overspin your tires during harsh turns,

you should be doing fine.



Turns 1 and 2

-------------

The key to taking these two turns is to control your speed without any

blatant slowdown or wheelspin.  A reasonable speed here would be 100
mph
(my experimentation here is rather limited, so bear with me) with

some skidding, but you will need to have the car straightened up just

before you take on Turn 3.



Turn 3

------

This turn is pretty damn sharp, so it's important that you slow down

to about 80 mph just before the turn starts so you can cut the apex

of the turn.  You may want to experiment with some sliding here, but

you need to adjust this strategy depending on your experience.



Turns 4 and 5

-------------

No blatant slowing down allowed.  Try to maintain high speed without

wheelspin or blatant skidding.  The key here would be to start these

turns as early as you can so you maintain your out-and-in routine.



Turn 6

------

Turn 6 is where beginners tend to bite the dust.  Cut your speed to

*below* 50 mph just before the Tunnel terminates.  When the turn

begins, you should try to cut the apex as much as you can, but don't

hit the wall at the right or you may overspin the rear tires.
Sliding's acceptable as long as you don't overdo it.



Turn 7

------

The key to taking this turn would be to cut the apex without using

the brakes too much and with a good feel of the gas pedal.  Stay

inside of the track for as much as you can, making sure that your

wheels are touching the slant, *barely* missing the grass.



Turns 8 and 9

-------------

Keep a smooth racing line at all times.  You can go full speed at

Turn 8, but you may have to do some skidding (be sure to turn before
the turn starts) on Turn 9.  Here, the key is to maintain a high

speed without any speed loss and without too much skidding.  A good

feel of the gas pedal, brake, and wheel will allow you to smoothen

up your racing line for speed in this area.



Turn 10

-------

Cut your speed to 60 mph just before the turn begins.  Brake at a

straight line for control, and begin turning when you are comfy

enough.  Don't overdo your drift as you may overspin your rear

wheels.  The key here is to drift to the inside of this turn without

any wheelspin.  You may have to speed out during this turn whenever

appropriate for your safety.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11



Special Stage Route 11 is where the championship is decided at.  There

tends to be underclassmen who will score more points than in the other

tracks if you underestimate them, so you have to make sure that you

are not taking any turns too harsh because all of them are blind.

Learn this track at the Front-Engine, Front-Drive Car Championships.



Turn 1

------

This turn can be taken at full speed.  Just don't get so greedy in the

turn that you forget turning in the second turn.



Turn 2

------

Slow down from the outside.  Then as the turn begins, slide throughout

most of the turn (although you may have to hit the wall, it takes

practice to avoid the wall in this course since Special Stage Route 11

is laden with sharps).  Don't be starting the turn too early as you

may hit the right wall.  Be sure that you drift here so that you can

maintain your speed.



Turns 3 and 4

-------------

It may be *necessary* (but shouldn't be that bad) to slow down, but

don't do too much slowing down as you may risk spinning the rear

wheels blatantly.  Do a slide and you'll be risking hitting a wall

at the left or hitting the gas canisters just before Turns 5 and 6.

The key to undertaking this turn would be to take this turn with the

smoothest possible line without slowing down too much and without

any blatant skidding.  Try not to do too much slowing down since

you're inside an AWD Vehicle.



Turns 5 and 6

-------------

Try to skid both turns, and make sure that you are not going too fast

on these turns, since you are in risk of spinning out the rear tires.

Have the car straightened as you complete a sharp.  Watch out for the

slant just before Turn 6 starts.  Skid through Turn 6, and then get

ready for Turn 7, which is a hairpin.



Turn 7

------

Try to slow down just as the turn starts so you can skid through this

killer hairpin.  Slide throughout the turn and don't accelerate until

you're confident that you won't spin out and that you will not hit the

wall at the left.  You can hug the left wall as you take on this turn

for increased speed, but that takes too much timing, and it's rather

dangerous since you're wearing your left tires.



Turns 8 and 9

-------------

Turn 8 can be taken at full speed.  Turn 9 is a sharp left that you will

have to slow down just before the turn starts so that you can drift

throughout most of the turn.  Be sure that you are not drifting this

turn too hot as this will result in a spinout.  You can hug the right

wall in order to take this turn with increased speed, but that's rather

dangerous since you risk wearing out the right tires trying to cheat.



Turns 10-13

-----------

One of my least favorite areas.  You may want to cut your speed to

around 80 mph so you don't end up hitting the wall.  Don't get into a

bad skid here as you will need every inch of control in order to make

through this corridor without hitting the wall.  Keep a smooth racing

line right here.



Turns 14 and 15

---------------

These turns can be taken at full speed, but you need to use Turn 15

and the *slight* straightaway in order to prepare for Turns 16 and 17,

which comes in *just about* immediately, so you will need the car

straightened up in preparation for speed reduction for the next chicane.



Turns 16 and 17

---------------

If you used the brake while on a lousy position (from Turns 14 and 15),

then you're in for a spinout.  Keep the car running straight, release

the gas pedal, and at around 40-50 mph, I would take on the first half

of the chicane from the out and in but I have to immediately swerve my

car to the left because I'm in for the next chicane.  By the time I

turn at Turn 18, I should *be able* to have the car straightened up and

ready to drift at the next medium or sharp left.



Turn 18

-------

A good feel of the gas and pedal is required here.  The key to passing

this turn is to keep a smooth racing line with a good feel of the gas

pedal without any blatant slowing down or any unnecessary drifting here.

Apex cutting is acceptable, as long as you are not sloppy taking it.



Turn 19

-------

There's some easy slants just before this painful hairpin.  You may

wish to do the "Cheating Bastard" maneuver by leaning at the outside of

the track and then with zest timing lean to the right *just right* and

pedal to the metal.  You must time your wheel yanks correctly in order

to cheat on this hairpin.  However, you risk having to wear out your

tires and may face a possible spinout by all means, so an alternative

to the Cheating Bastard maneuver (BTW it's Jaz Rignall of PSM Online

who came up with the idea of the Cheating Bastard), brake as the left

slant concludes *hard*, and yank the car to the right.  Be sure that

you have the car counterbanked and straightened by the time you start

Turns 20 and 21.



Turns 20 and 21

---------------

I would treat these two sharps as one turn.  Time your drift so that
you just *hit* the right wall and that you can have room to straight
en
up your car by the time Turn 22 (hairpin) begins.  A bad drift or a

sloppy undertake would result in the competition catching up with you.



Turn 22

-------

Here, the Cheating Bastard maneuver works here, but it's easier to do

the Cheating Bastard maneuver in this hairpin than in Turn 19 because

you don't have to contend with some slants before the hairpin.  This

applies to the first hairpin just before the tunnel.  As the right

hairpin starts, go way outside, and with zest timing, turn right just

right, and pedal to the metal.  Becoming a cheating bastard takes time

because you need the right timing in order to take on the hairpin at

dangerous speeds (Once again, Jaz Rignall of http://www.psmonline.com)

but it's easier to do with the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition since

All Wheel Drive improves your timing a *little* bit.



Turns 23 and 24

---------------

You need to slow down to under 45 mph when you see sections of Turn 23

in order to avoid sloppy screwups.  Brake from the left side of the

track and as you see sections of Turn 23, brake *hard* and as Turn 23

begins, keep a smooth racing line.  A good feel of the gas, brakes, and

the steering wheel is required.



Turn 25

-------

Keep your speed to around 100 mph at this final turn.  Speed out from

the turn if you are going to get closer to the left wall.  A good feel

of the gas and the pedal is required here.



========================================================================

JAPANESE AND BRITISH CAR CHAMPIONSHIP


Number of Tracks: 5

Laps per Track: 3

Required Class License: A-Class

Restriction of Car Type: Mitsubishi, Honda, Acura, Toyota, Subaru,

Nissan, Mazda, Aston Martin, and TVR brand cars only.

Tracks involved: Trial Mountain Reverse, Special Stage Route 5, High

Speed Ring, Grand Valley East Reverse, Special Stage Route 11

Pole Position Bonus: 5000 Credits

Finish First in the Track Bonus: 10000 Credits

Series Winner Bonus: 20000 Credits

Car you get for winning the race:  Either the Honda Civic Del Sol LM

(Mid-Engine, Rear Drive, my least favorite car), or a TVR Cerbera LM.

Don't enter the American-British Racing Series until you get the Cerbera

LM.  Neither LMs are my favorites.


------------------------------------------------------------------------

Vestiroth's note: All of these nation versus nation sports car series

are identical, but since I'm a rather tight strategist, I'm gonna base
sections of this FAQ based upon the car I drive.  Here's what you need

to do before getting inside the Japanese and British Car Championship:



1.  Buy a new Mitsubishi GTO Twinturbo.  I like All-Wheel Drive cars.

    You may think that I'm out of this world because I'm telling you

    these $#!^ notes, but hey, I want you to dominate the series as

    much as I want you to.



2.  Improve your skills at the GT Cup.  Hopefully, you've got a Toyota

    Castrol Supra GT or a Subaru Impreza Rally Edition on your garage

    to dominate the GT Cup!  Use these cars to earn your dough on the

    GT Cup.



3.  Try to have as many credits as you can because you're going to do

    some expensive tuning at the Ralli Art!



4.  Here's what I want you do from this point on (Remember if you can't

    afford for these parts earlier on, you can always come back later).

    Keep in mind that these are only my recommendations so you should

    experience with different parts throughout your gameplay.  I'm

    thankful to Sam Davis (sdavis1@mail.wsu.edu) because I'm writing

    this FAQ without my Gran Turismo Reference Guide!  Please read his

    Menu Translation Guide at GameFAQs.com:

*  Buy the Sports Muffler


*  Buy the Sports Brake Kit and Brake Balance Controller

*  Buy any Turbo Kit.

*  Buy the Racing Intercooler kit

*  Buy the Racing Support Suspension Kit

*  Buy Hard Stabilizer Kits on both sides of the car

*  Buy Computer Engine Tune-up, Port Polishing, and Engine Balancing

*  Buy Soft Racing Support Tires

*  Buy Racing Support Gearbox, Triple Clutch, Racing Flywheel, and a

   Carbon Driveshaft (if applicable)

*  Undergo all stages of Weight Reduction

*  Transform your Mitsubishi GTO Twinturbo into a 240 mph screamer!



Remember you can read Sam Davis's Gran Turismo Menu Translation Guide

if you need a better description of these at http://www.gamefaqs.com.

5.  From this point, you should be practicing dominating the Megaspeed

    championships because you should be able to have a heavily-tuned,

    racing-modified Mitsubishi GTO TwinTurbo.  I reached 242 mph on the

    Test Course during the Megaspeed Championship.  How about that?



6.  Once you got used to the Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo long enough,

    throw this car in the Japanese and American Car championships, and

    laugh hard by dominating the series.  You should be able to Pole

    Position on all five courses, and you should place 1st on all the
    five courses, and your car should be powerful enough to overwhelm

    the Subaru Impreza Rally Edition, which is a key concern in the

    Japanese and American Sports Car Championships.



7.  If you can win the Japanese and American Car series, you should

    receive a Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition.  It's an All-Wheel Drive

    racer, but it's easier to control and handle than the seemingly

    hard-to-get-used-to GTO Twinturbo.



8.  This part of the FAQ assumes that you're driving a heavily-tuned,

    racing-compliant Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition.  You will need to

    change your strategies a bit if you are driving other cars.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

TRIAL MOUNTAIN REVERSE



With the Mitsubishi FTO in your possesion, you should be able to take

on Trial Mountain Reverse without any problems (as opposed to the GTO

Twin Turbo undergoing lots of mods and Castrol Stickers).  You still

need to utilize all of your driving potential here in order to fry the

competition to a crisp, though.



Turns 1 and 2

-------------

The key to success in these turns is to cut the apex as much as possible

without touching the slant and without any blatant slowdown.  I would

say that 100 mph (approx) would be safe, although higher speeds may be

possible, depending on your expertise and racing prowess.



Turn 3

------

Cut your speed to around 70 mph and take this turn from the outside to

the inside.  Try not to touch the slant at the right side of the track

since this makes your car unstable.  You should have the car back in

straight condition when you take on Turn 4.



Turn 4

------

Do the same thing as with Turn 3, but this time around, stay off the

slant at the left side of the track, since your car may "bounce" up

and down (causing you to lose control).  Sliding's acceptable, as

long as you don't turn too sloppy on this turn.



Turns 5 and 6

-------------

Try to keep a smooth racing line as much as you can to maximize speed

and make sure that you stay off the walls (since they may be a problem

to most of you).  Gently turn ahead of time as each turn starts and

by the time you finish Turn 6, you should have the car in straight

standing to prepare yourself for Turn 7.



Turn 7

------
You will be able to get inside the rightmost side of the track if you

can slow down ahead of time.  I would say that around 80 mph would be

safe.  Make sure that you do not accelerate until after the turn.



Turn 8

------
Since I'm inside an All Wheel Drive car, I would brake while I'm inside
the tunnel, and begin turning as the tunnel ends.  As with all turns,

do not accelerate until after you're confident enough that you're not

gonna be hitting any slants as you enter another tunnel.  I would say

that 100 mph would be safe for this turn.



Turn 9

------

The key to undertaking this turn is to skid here without any blatant

loss of speed.  I would say that just *a little* under 90 mph would be

fine to avoid hitting any wall or touching any grass, although you need

to adjust this based upon your expertise.



Turns 10 and 11

---------------

Ease up on these turns as much as you can.  By the time you finish up

taking on Turn 11, you need to have your car in a straight line in order

to slow down at Turn 12, which is a deadly hairpin.



Turn 12

-------

You will carry more control if you cut your speed in a straight line,

making sure that you are not over 50 mph as you take on this turn, and

you cut the apex (while avoiding the walls, grass, and slants).  Do not

accelerate until after the turn.  Please be aware that Turn 13 follows

this turn almost immediately.



Turn 13

-------

You need to start drifting just before the dip.  Yank the car to the

right *just right* in order to avoid hitting the slant or going off

the track.  By the time you finish this turn, you should have the car

straightened and regained control of your vehicle.



Turn 14

-------

Start turning ahead of time, and move from the left side of the track

to the right side of the track.  You should be careful not to hit the

slant at the right side of the track as you may take an unnecessary

dip.  You will need as much control as you can when you reach Turns

15 and 16, so negotiate this turn with zest, and don't go too fast.



Turns 15 and 16
---------------

The key to success on these turns is to cut the apex of each of these

turns without any contact with the slants, and by going around 120 mph

during both of these turns.  When the left turn starts, yank the wheel

gently, and when the right turn starts, you may need to apply some

braking and drift during the final turn.  By the time you're ready to

cross the finish line, you should be back in control.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 5



Turn 1

------

Although you can take this turn in full speed, you need to start your

slowing down as early as this turn so you can take Turn 2 without having

to hit the wall, which wears out your tires.  It's important that you

slow down as early as Turn 1 so you will not be hitting the tunnel wall

or slanting the car at an unnecessary position during Turn 2.



Turn 2

------

Since I'm riding on the Subaru Impreza Rally Edition, I would say that

115 mph would be a safe speed.  Rapid tap the gas pedal so you don't

wind up scrapping the right wall.  You might have to apply some braking

if appropriate.



Turn 3

------

Take the turn from the out-and-in.  Controlled braking should keep your

car under control and prepared for Turn 4.  As long as you skid, you

should not be hitting the wall.  If you are inside by the time Turn 3

starts, then I don't have an idea on how you will be able to cope with

the turn.



Turn 4

------

Slow ahead of time by braking hard as the turn begins, skid as much

as you can, but don't skid too much here because Turn 5 is coming up,

and you want to take this turn as smooth as you can.  I would say the

ideal speed here would be ~70 mph with some skidding, but that would

throw you at the inside by the time you reach Turn 5, so you have to

adjust your tactic on this crappy turn depending on your own personal

experience.



Turn 5

------

Providing that you have taken Turn 4 smoothly, this turn can be taken

with some acceleration.  If you taken Turn 4 horribly, then I don't

have a friggin' clue on how you'll be able to take this turn.



Turns 6&7

---------

This ess can be taken at full speed providing that you are turning

ahead of time and providing that you are taking the turn from the

out-and-in.  Please try to keep a smooth racing line here because

this turns out to be one of the areas where beginners lose control.

You need to be careful not to hit the railing by the time you complete

Turn 7 because if you do, then you'll be sorry.



Turns 8&9

---------
The following two turns can be taken with some controlled skidding.

You should try to brake hard ahead of time at Turn 8 so that you don't

hit the left wall.  Make sure that your car is in good shape so that

you can skid Turn 9 without any problems.  Taking the turns out-and-in

style is OK as long as you don't start the turn too early, which may

cause a spin-out.



Turn 10

-------
Killer Hairpin.  Brake *HARD* so you can take this hairpin without

hitting the wall.  Don't undertake this hairpin too early or that

mistake would mean your last.  Don't skid as you may risk hitting the

wall at the right.  I would say that 40 mph without skidding would be

safe.  Don't use full acceleration until after you pass the hairpin.



Turn 11

-------

You may wish to accelerate in this turn, but IMHO you need to be

skidding here so you don't have to hit the wall at the left side of

the track, so be prepared to drift as you accelerate back to your

usual speed.  By the time you are about to reach Turn 12, you should

have the car straightened so you can drift once again without any

trouble.



Turn 12

-------

Take this turn from the out-and-in, and drift with zest so you don't

hit the wall at the left or lose any much needed control.  It's

important that you have the car straightened up by the time you meet

up with the worst area in the track--THE FINAL STRETCH!!!!



Turns 13-15

-----------

Worst part of the track.  You need to slow down as early as the

painted crosswalk so you can set up for Turn 15, which is a rather

nasty right.  Try not to go any faster than 60 mph on the first two

turns, and when you are about to take Turn 15, you need to be drifting

with zest and not accelerating until you have the car straightened up

but I find this part to be pretty nasty because your timing may be poor

by the time you enter this area.  This part really demands good timing

and practice in order to avoid hitting the walls during the triangle.



Turn 16

-------

Pretty long Medium Right.  You may need to do some skidding, or you

may not go any faster than 85 mph because this seems to be sharper than

I thought.  You can skid, as long as you don't go too fast.  Don't try

to accelerate until after the turn and after you have the car back to

stance.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

HIGH SPEED RING



Although this seems to be a terrible course for you to enter (mainly

because some of the British Cars tend to pose a higher threat level than

they do in the other tracks), you can Pole Position and win the track

if you are a skilled TVR Cerbera Limited Edition driver or if you took

the time to make the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition your slave.  Taking

turns smoothly and avoiding any blatant skidding will ensure that no one

will oppose your racing authority during this course.



Turn 1

------

Take this turn at full speed.  Be sure at the final stretch of the turn

that you *slightly* slow down so you don't have to worry about hitting

the wall at the right by the time the turn ends.



Turn 2

------

You may want to brake as late as possible so that you can skid here at

higher speeds.  Be sure that you are taking this turn out-and-in, and

by the time you leave the turn, you should prepare for Turns 3 and 4

without much trouble.  Have the car straightened.



Turns 3 and 4

-------------

You may have to do some *blatant* slow down here since these turns are

the most dangerous turns in the track.  I would cut my speed to around

90 mph so I won't be touching the grass or hitting the wall.  Try to

do some rapid gas tapping in this area.  A feel of the gas is required

to ensure control of the Mitsubishi GTO at all costs.



Turn 5

------

Provided that you took Turns 3 and 4 without any blatant trouble, this

would be a good place to prepare for Turn 6.  Stay to the right side

of the track, making sure that you *barely* miss the grass at the right

side of the track.  When Turn 6 starts, you should try to slow down in

a straight line and start taking Turn 6 from the outside and into the

inside.



Turn 6

------

Provided that you have slowed down to ~120 mph, you can take this turn
without having to release the gas pedal.  Make sure that you speed out

if necessary if you feel that you're going to get closer to the wall
at the right.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

GRAND VALLEY EAST REVERSE



Much bizarre than Grand Valley East, GVE Reverse provides some weird
turns, but as long as you don't overspin your tires during harsh turns,

you should be doing fine.



Turns 1 and 2

-------------
The key to taking these two turns is to control your speed without any

blatant slowdown or wheelspin.  A reasonable speed here would be 100
mph
(my experimentation here is rather limited, so bear with me) with
some
skidding, but you will need to have the car straightened up just

before you take on Turn 3.



Turn 3

------

This turn is pretty damn sharp, so it's important that you slow down

to about 80 mph just before the turn starts so you can cut the apex
of the turn.  You may want to experiment with some sliding here, but

you need to adjust this strategy depending on your experience.



Turns 4 and 5

-------------

No blatant slowing down allowed.  Try to maintain high speed without

wheelspin or blatant skidding.  The key here would be to start these

turns as early as you can so you maintain your out-and-in routine.



Turn 6

------

Turn 6 is where beginners tend to bite the dust.  Cut your speed to

*below* 50 mph just before the Tunnel terminates.  When the turn

begins, you should try to cut the apex as much as you can, but don't

hit the wall at the right or you may overspin the rear tires.

Sliding's acceptable as long as you don't overdo it.



Turn 7

------

The key to taking this turn would be to cut the apex without using

the brakes too much and with a good feel of the gas pedal.  Stay

inside of the track for as much as you can, making sure that your

wheels are touching the slant, *barely* missing the grass.



Turns 8 and 9

-------------

Keep a smooth racing line at all times.  You can go full speed at

Turn 8, but you may have to do some skidding (be sure to turn before

the turn starts) on Turn 9.  Here, the key is to maintain a high

speed without any speed loss and without too much skidding.  A good

feel of the gas pedal, brake, and wheel will allow you to smoothen

up your racing line for speed in this area.



Turn 10

-------

Cut your speed to 60 mph just before the turn begins.  Brake at a
s
traight line for control, and begin turning when you are comfy

enough.  Don't overdo your drift as you may overspin your rear

wheels.  The key here is to drift to the inside of this turn without

any wheelspin.  You may have to speed out during this turn whenever

appropriate for your safety.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11



If there's a track that will push me to use the Mitsubishi FTO Limited

Edition for the Japanese and British Car Championships, then it would

be this course.  It's array of blind turns, tight curves, and bizarre

corridors makes this track reserved for All Wheel Drive cars only.



Turn 1

------

This turn can be taken at full speed.  Just don't get so greedy in the

turn that you forget turning in the second turn.



Turn 2

------

Slow down from the outside.  Then as the turn begins, slide throughout

most of the turn (although you may have to hit the wall, it takes

practice to avoid the wall in this course since Special Stage Route 11

is laden with sharps).  Don't be starting the turn too early as you

may hit the right wall.  Be sure that you drift here so that you can

maintain your speed.



Turns 3 and 4

-------------

It may be *necessary* (but shouldn't be that bad) to slow down, but

don't do too much slowing down as you may risk spinning the rear

wheels blatantly.  Do a slide and you'll be risking hitting a wall

at the left or hitting the gas canisters just before Turns 5 and 6.

The key to undertaking this turn would be to take this turn with the

smoothest possible line without slowing down too much and without

any blatant skidding.  Try not to do too much slowing down since

you're inside an AWD Vehicle.



Turns 5 and 6

-------------

Try to skid both turns, and make sure that you are not going too fast

on these turns, since you are in risk of spinning out the rear tires.

Have the car straightened as you complete a sharp.  Watch out for the

slant just before Turn 6 starts.  Skid through Turn 6, and then get
ready for Turn 7, which is a hairpin.



Turn 7

------
Try to slow down just as the turn starts so you can skid through this

killer hairpin.  Slide throughout the turn and don't accelerate until

you're confident that you won't spin out and that you will not hit the

wall at the left.  You can hug the left wall as you take on this turn

for increased speed, but that takes too much timing, and it's rather

dangerous since you're wearing your left tires.



Turns 8 and 9

-------------

Turn 8 can be taken at full speed.  Turn 9 is a sharp left that you will

have to slow down just before the turn starts so that you can drift

throughout most of the turn.  Be sure that you are not drifting this

turn too hot as this will result in a spinout.  You can hug the right

wall in order to take this turn with increased speed, but that's rather

dangerous since you risk wearing out the right tires trying to cheat.



Turns 10-13

-----------

You may want to cut your speed to around 80 mph so you don't end up

hitting the wall.  Don't get into a bad skid here as you will need

every inch of control in order to make through this corridor without

hitting the wall.  Keep a smooth racing line right here.  One of my least

favorite corridors.



Turns 14 and 15

---------------

These turns can be taken at full speed, but you need to use Turn 15

and the *slight* straightaway in order to prepare for Turns 16 and 17,

which comes in *just about* immediately, so you will need the car

straightened up in preparation for speed reduction for the next chicane.



Turns 16 and 17

---------------

If you used the brake while on a lousy position (from Turns 14 and 15),

then you're in for a spinout.  Keep the car running straight, release

the gas pedal, and at around 40-50 mph, I would take on the first half

of the chicane from the out and in but I have to immediately swerve my

car to the left because I'm in for the next chicane.  By the time I

turn at Turn 18, I should *be able* to have the car straightened up and

ready to drift at the next medium or sharp left.



Turn 18

-------

A good feel of the gas and pedal is required here.  The key to passing

this turn is to keep a smooth racing line with a good feel of the gas

pedal without any blatant slowing down or any unnecessary drifting here.

Apex cutting is acceptable, as long as you are not sloppy taking it.



Turn 19

-------

There's some easy slants just before this painful hairpin.  You may

wish to do the "Cheating Bastard" maneuver by leaning at the outside of

the track and then with zest timing lean to the right *just right* and

pedal to the metal.  You must time your wheel yanks correctly in order
to cheat on this hairpin.  However, you risk having to wear out your

tires and may face a possible spinout by all means, so an alternative
to the Cheating Bastard maneuver (BTW it's Jaz Rignall of PSM Online

who came up with the idea of the Cheating Bastard), brake as the left

slant concludes *hard*, and yank the car to the right.  Be sure that

you have the car counterbanked and straightened by the time you start

Turns 20 and 21.



Turns 20 and 21

---------------

I would treat these two sharps as one turn.  Time your drift so that

you just *hit* the right wall and that you can have room to straighten

up your car by the time Turn 22 (hairpin) begins.  A bad drift or a

sloppy undertake would result in the competition catching up with you.



Turn 22

-------

Here, the Cheating Bastard maneuver works here, but it's easier to do

the Cheating Bastard maneuver in this hairpin than in Turn 19 because

you don't have to contend with some slants before the hairpin.  This

applies to the first hairpin just before the tunnel.  As the right

hairpin starts, go way outside, and with zest timing, turn right just

right, and pedal to the metal.  Becoming a cheating bastard takes time

because you need the right timing in order to take on the hairpin at

dangerous speeds (Once again, Jaz Rignall of http://www.psmonline.com)

but it's easier to do with the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition since

All Wheel Drive improves your timing a *little* bit.



Turns 23 and 24

---------------

You need to slow down to under 45 mph when you see sections of Turn 23

in order to avoid sloppy screwups.  Brake from the left side of the

track and as you see sections of Turn 23, brake *hard* and as Turn 23

begins, keep a smooth racing line.  A good feel of the gas, brakes, and

the steering wheel is required.



Turn 25

-------
Keep your speed to around 100 mph at this final turn.  Speed out from

the turn if you are going to get closer to the left wall.  A good feel

of the gas and the pedal is required here.



========================================================================

AMERICAN AND BRITISH CAR CHAMPIONSHIP


Number of Tracks: 5

Laps per Track: 3

Required Class License: A-Class

Restriction of Car Type: Dodge, Chevrolet, TVR, and Aston Martin brand

cars only.

Tracks involved: Trial Mountain Reverse, Special Stage Route 5, High

Speed Ring, Grand Valley East Reverse, Special Stage Route 11

Pole Position Bonus: 5000 Credits

Finish First in the Track Bonus: 10000 Credits

Series Winner Bonus: 20000 Credits

Car you get for winning the race: Either the Mazda RX-7 A-Spec Limited

Edition or the Racing Concept Car.  Both of these cars are my most hated

cars.  The Concept Car remains on my most hated list.  Too hard to control.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Vestiroth's note: This is IMHO the worst among the nation versus nation

sport car series because you're only allowed to use American and British

cars, all which are rear-wheel drive cars.  Since you're bound to lose

some fire on this series (because you're bound to hit some walls or spin

out as you learn how to dominate this course), I have tried to mix a

good blend of speed and handling as much as I can.  You need to place

first on four out of 5 courses in order to win.  You may wind up losing
on Special Stage Route 11 because this course tests your ability to be

a competent driver rather than on speed.  In order to make sure that

you PLACE FIRST IN AT LEAST the Trial Mountain Reverse, Special Stage

Route 5, High Speed Ring, and the Grand Valley East Reverse.  I really

can't recommend going on this course unless you have the TVR Cerbera

LM with you.  This is NOT my favorite series at all.


------------------------------------------------------------------------

TRIAL MOUNTAIN REVERSE



I have no clue on how you will be able to beat this track since you are

inside either a Dodge Viper or a TVR Cerbera Limited Edition.  You need

to slow down ahead of time to avoid any sloppy skidding or overspin of

the rear tires to stay within the competition.  Like I said, this is one

of my turn-offs in all of Gran Turismo.



Turns 1 and 2

-------------

The key to success in these turns is to cut the apex as much as possible

without touching the slant and without any blatant slowdown.  I would

say that 100 mph (approx) would be safe, although higher speeds may be

possible, depending on your expertise and racing prowess.



Turn 3

------

Cut your speed to around 70 mph and take this turn from the outside to

the inside.  Try not to touch the slant at the right side of the track

since this makes your car unstable.  You should have the car back in

straight condition when you take on Turn 4.



Turn 4

------
Do the same thing as with Turn 3, but this time around, stay off the

slant at the left side of the track, since your car may "bounce" up

and down (causing you to lose control).  Sliding's acceptable, as

long as you don't turn too sloppy on this turn.



Turns 5 and 6

-------------

Try to keep a smooth racing line as much as you can to maximize speed

and make sure that you stay off the walls (since they may be a problem

to most of you).  Gently turn ahead of time as each turn starts and

by the time you finish Turn 6, you should have the car in straight

standing to prepare yourself for Turn 7.



Turn 7

------

You will be able to get inside the rightmost side of the track if you

can slow down ahead of time.  I would say that around 80 mph would be

safe.  Make sure that you do not accelerate until after the turn.



Turn 8

------
Since I'm inside an All Wheel Drive car, I would brake while I'm inside

the tunnel, and begin turning as the tunnel ends.  As with all turns,

do not accelerate until after you're confident enough that you're not

gonna be hitting any slants as you enter another tunnel.  I would say

that 100 mph would be safe for this turn.



Turn 9

------

The key to undertaking this turn is to skid here without any blatant

loss of speed.  I would say that just *a little* under 90 mph would be

fine to avoid hitting any wall or touching any grass, although you need

to adjust this based upon your expertise.



Turns 10 and 11

---------------

Ease up on these turns as much as you can.  By the time you finish up

taking on Turn 11, you need to have your car in a straight line in order

to slow down at Turn 12, which is a deadly hairpin.



Turn 12

-------

You will carry more control if you cut your speed in a straight line,

making sure that you are not over 50 mph as you take on this turn, and

you cut the apex (while avoiding the walls, grass, and slants).  Do not

accelerate until after the turn.  Please be aware that Turn 13 follows

this turn almost immediately.



Turn 13

-------

You need to start drifting just before the dip.  Yank the car to the

right *just right* in order to avoid hitting the slant or going off

the track.  By the time you finish this turn, you should have the car

straightened and regained control of your vehicle.



Turn 14

-------

Start turning ahead of time, and move from the left side of the track

to the right side of the track.  You should be careful not to hit the

slant at the right side of the track as you may take an unnecessary

dip.  You will need as much control as you can when you reach Turns

15 and 16, so negotiate this turn with zest, and don't go too fast.



Turns 15 and 16

---------------

The key to success on these turns is to cut the apex of each of these

turns without any contact with the slants, and by going around 120 mph

during both of these turns.  When the left turn starts, yank the wheel

gently, and when the right turn starts, you may need to apply some

braking and drift during the final turn.  By the time you're ready to

cross the finish line, you should be back in control.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 5



Turn 1

------

Although you can take this turn in full speed, you need to start your

slowing down as early as this turn so you can take Turn 2 without having

to hit the wall, which wears out your tires.  It's important that you

slow down as early as Turn 1 so you will not be hitting the tunnel wall

or slanting the car at an unnecessary position during Turn 2.



Turn 2

------

Since I'm riding on the Subaru Impreza Rally Edition, I would say that

115 mph would be a safe speed.  Rapid tap the gas pedal so you don't

wind up scrapping the right wall.  You might have to apply some braking

if appropriate.



Turn 3

------

Take the turn from the out-and-in.  Controlled braking should keep your

car under control and prepared for Turn 4.  As long as you skid, you

should not be hitting the wall.  If you are inside by the time Turn 3

starts, then I don't have an idea on how you will be able to cope with

the turn.



Turn 4

------

Slow ahead of time by braking hard as the turn begins, skid as much

as you can, but don't skid too much here because Turn 5 is coming up,

and you want to take this turn as smooth as you can.  I would say the

ideal speed here would be ~70 mph with some skidding, but that would

throw you at the inside by the time you reach Turn 5, so you have to

adjust your tactic on this crappy turn depending on your own personal

experience.



Turn 5
------

Providing that you have taken Turn 4 smoothly, this turn can be taken

with some acceleration.  If you taken Turn 4 horribly, then I don't

have a friggin' clue on how you'll be able to take this turn.



Turns 6&7

---------

This ess can be taken at full speed providing that you are turning

ahead of time and providing that you are taking the turn from the

out-and-in.  Please try to keep a smooth racing line here because

this turns out to be one of the areas where beginners lose control.

You need to be careful not to hit the railing by the time you complete

Turn 7 because if you do, then you'll be sorry.



Turns 8&9

---------

The following two turns can be taken with some controlled skidding.

You should try to brake hard ahead of time at Turn 8 so that you don't

hit the left wall.  Make sure that your car is in good shape so that

you can skid Turn 9 without any problems.  Taking the turns out-and-in

style is OK as long as you don't start the turn too early, which may

cause a spin-out.



Turn 10

-------

Killer Hairpin.  Brake *HARD* so you can take this hairpin without

hitting the wall.  Don't undertake this hairpin too early or that

mistake would mean your last.  Don't skid as you may risk hitting the

wall at the right.  I would say that 40 mph without skidding would be

safe.  Don't use full acceleration until after you pass the hairpin.



Turn 11

-------

You may wish to accelerate in this turn, but IMHO you need to be

skidding here so you don't have to hit the wall at the left side of

the track, so be prepared to drift as you accelerate back to your

usual speed.  By the time you are about to reach Turn 12, you should

have the car straightened so you can drift once again without any

trouble.



Turn 12

-------

Take this turn from the out-and-in, and drift with zest so you don't

hit the wall at the left or lose any much needed control.  It's

important that you have the car straightened up by the time you meet
up with the worst area in the track--THE FINAL STRETCH!!!!



Turns 13-15

-----------

Worst part of the track.  You need to slow down as early as the

painted crosswalk so you can set up for Turn 15, which is a rather

nasty right.  Try not to go any faster than 60 mph on the first two

turns, and when you are about to take Turn 15, you need to be drifting

with zest and not accelerating until you have the car straightened up

but I find this part to be pretty nasty because your timing may be poor

by the time you enter this area.  This part really demands good timing

and practice in order to avoid hitting the walls during the triangle.



Turn 16

-------

Pretty long Medium Right.  You may need to do some skidding, or you

may not go any faster than 85 mph because this seems to be sharper than

I thought.  You can skid, as long as you don't go too fast.  Don't try

to accelerate until after the turn and after you have the car back to

stance.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

HIGH SPEED RING



Unless you're inside the wheel of a mighty Dodge Viper GTS-R or a TVR

Cerbera Limited Edition, you will find yourself in dead last once you

finished this course because all of the cars tend to pose a vital threat

to your racing dominance in the series.  You need to average about 147

mph all around in order to win this track, and avoid any blatant goof-

offs or spinouts in order to keep up with the competition.



Turn 1

------

Take this turn at full speed.  Be sure at the final stretch of the turn

that you *slightly* slow down so you don't have to worry about hitting

the wall at the right by the time the turn ends.



Turn 2

------

You may want to brake as late as possible so that you can skid here at

higher speeds.  Be sure that you are taking this turn out-and-in, and

by the time you leave the turn, you should prepare for Turns 3 and 4

without much trouble.  Have the car straightened.



Turns 3 and 4

-------------

You may have to do some *blatant* slow down here since these turns are

the most dangerous turns in the track.  I would cut my speed to around

90 mph so I won't be touching the grass or hitting the wall.  Try to

do some rapid gas tapping in this area.  A feel of the gas is required

to ensure control of the Mitsubishi GTO at all costs.



Turn 5

------

Provided that you took Turns 3 and 4 without any blatant trouble, this

would be a good place to prepare for Turn 6.  Stay to the right side

of the track, making sure that you *barely* miss the grass at the right

side of the track.  When Turn 6 starts, you should try to slow down in

a straight line and start taking Turn 6 from the outside and into the

inside.



Turn 6

------

Provided that you have slowed down to ~120 mph, you can take this turn

without having to release the gas pedal.  Make sure that you speed out

if necessary if you feel that you're going to get closer to the wall

at the right.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

GRAND VALLEY EAST REVERSE



Much bizarre than Grand Valley East, GVE Reverse provides some weird

turns, but as long as you don't overspin your tires during harsh turns,

you should be doing fine.



Turns 1 and 2

-------------

The key to taking these two turns is to control your speed without any

blatant slowdown or wheelspin.  A reasonable speed here would be 100

mph (my experimentation here is rather limited, so bear with me) with

some skidding, but you will need to have the car straightened up just

before you take on Turn 3.



Turn 3

------

This turn is pretty damn sharp, so it's important that you slow down

to about 80 mph just before the turn starts so you can cut the apex

of the turn.  You may want to experiment with some sliding here, but

you need to adjust this strategy depending on your experience.



Turns 4 and 5

-------------

No blatant slowing down allowed.  Try to maintain high speed without

wheelspin or blatant skidding.  The key here would be to start these

turns as early as you can so you maintain your out-and-in routine.



Turn 6

------
Turn 6 is where beginners tend to bite the dust.  Cut your speed to

*below* 50 mph just before the Tunnel terminates.  When the turn

begins, you should try to cut the apex as much as you can, but don't

hit the wall at the right or you may overspin the rear tires.

Sliding's acceptable as long as you don't overdo it.



Turn 7

------

The key to taking this turn would be to cut the apex without using

the brakes too much and with a good feel of the gas pedal.  Stay

inside of the track for as much as you can, making sure that your

wheels are touching the slant, *barely* missing the grass.



Turns 8 and 9

-------------

Keep a smooth racing line at all times.  You can go full speed at

Turn 8, but you may have to do some skidding (be sure to turn before

the turn starts) on Turn 9.  Here, the key is to maintain a high

speed without any speed loss and without too much skidding.  A good

feel of the gas pedal, brake, and wheel will allow you to smoothen

up your racing line for speed in this area.



Turn 10

-------

Cut your speed to 60 mph just before the turn begins.  Brake at a

straight line for control, and begin turning when you are comfy

enough.  Don't overdo your drift as you may overspin your rear

wheels.  The key here is to drift to the inside of this turn without

any wheelspin.  You may have to speed out during this turn whenever

appropriate for your safety.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11



This is the hardest of the five tracks in the series because since you

are inside a rear-drive car, any frontal contact with the wall may be

grounds for spinoffs as well as having the competition catch up with

you.  It's important to slow down as early as you can so you'll allow

some room for error.  Try not to take turns too sloppy.  The key in this

track is to test your ability on how efficient you can take the tightest

turns inside a rear-drive car.



Turn 1

------

This turn can be taken at full speed.  Just don't get so greedy in the

turn that you forget turning in the second turn.



Turn 2

------
Slow down from the outside.  Then as the turn begins, slide throughout

most of the turn (although you may have to hit the wall, it takes

practice to avoid the wall in this course since Special Stage Route 11

is laden with sharps).  Be sure that you're braking at a straight line

and slowing down ahead of time so that you don't spin out the rear

tires at the middle of the turn.



Turns 3 and 4

-------------
It may be *necessary* (but shouldn't be that bad) to slow down, but

don't do too much slowing down as you may risk spinning the rear

wheels blatantly.  Do a slide and you'll be risking hitting a wall

at the left or hitting the gas canisters just before Turns 5 and 6.

The key to undertaking this turn would be to take this turn with the

smoothest possible line without slowing down too much and without

any blatant skidding.  After you finish up this turn, you'll need

to slow down again because you're going to take on Turns 5 and 6

next!



Turns 5 and 6

-------------

You'll need to be slowing down ahead of time, begin turning (or

sliding if you feel adventurous), and going no more than around 50

mph (IMHO) in order to avoid any possible wall hit.  Just a little

before Turn 6, be careful not to stay on the left because the slant

may drag your car at the right side of the track and may cause some

blatant rear wheel spin if you don't move away from the left in time

so be sure that you swerve right to preserve your rear tires (and to

prepare for Turn 6).  By the time you are about to undertake Turn 6,

you should be sliding (if you want to) and just before Turn 7, you

should have the car straightened up.  Don't accelerate while you

are taking on these twin sharps.



Turn 7

------

You need to slow down as early as you can (to avoid blatant rear

wheelspin) and take on this hairpin at speeds less than 40 mph.  In

order to block off chances of spinning out, do not feed in too much

gas during this turn.  This turn demands that you have a good feel

of the brakes and the gas.  If not, then be prepared to get punished

by the competition.



Turns 8 and 9

-------------

Turn 8 can be taken at full speed.  Turn 9 is a sharp left that you

will have to attempt slowing down ahead of time so that you don't

overspin the rear wheels.  When taking on Turn 9, brake while the

straight is "here", and when the turn starts (and by the time you

drift), you should be able to bring in some control into your car, but

don't overuse the gas in this turn or you may be overspinning the rear

wheels (and perhaps that's a sign that you will spin out).



Turns 10-13

-----------

A Rear-Drive Car's concern.  You may want to cut your speed to around

80 mph so you don't end up hitting the wall, which may overspin your

tires if you keep the foot on the Gas Pedal.  Try to make sure you're

turning ahead of time and never get into a lousy skid as you may spin

out or perhaps hit the wall and melt your tired down.



Turns 14 and 15

---------------

These turns can be taken at full speed, but you need to use Turn 15

and the *slight* straightaway in order to prepare for Turns 16 and 17,

which comes in *just about* immediately, so you will need the car

straightened up in preparation for speed reduction for the next chicane.



Turns 16 and 17

---------------

If you used the brake while on a lousy position (from Turns 14 and 15),

then you're in for a spinout.  Keep the car running straight, release

the gas pedal, and at around 40-50 mph, I would take on the first half

of the chicane from the out and in but I have to immediately swerve my

car to the left because I'm in for the next chicane.  By the time I

turn at Turn 18, I should *be able* to have the car straightened up and
ready to drift at the next medium or sharp left.



Turn 18

-------

There is no need to brake here (since you've been slowing down at the

chicane), but you'll need to have a good feel of the gas and the brakes

in order to take on this turn without hitting any walls.  Cutting the

apex is acceptable as long as you don't overdo it.  You can slide here

but it's considered dangerous since you risk burning up your tires.



Turn 19

-------

There's some easy slants just before this painful hairpin.  You may

wish to do the "Cheating Bastard" maneuver by leaning at the outside of

the track and then with zest timing lean to the right *just right* and

pedal to the metal.  You must time your wheel yanks correctly in order

to cheat on this hairpin.  However, you risk having to wear out your

tires and may face a possible spinout by all means, so an alternative

to the Cheating Bastard maneuver (BTW it's Jaz Rignall of PSM Online

who came up with the idea of the Cheating Bastard), brake just a little

before the left slant begins, and when your speed is below 55 mph,

start drifting.  You must be in complete control of your car at all

times because this is where you tend to spin out.  A good feel of the

gas and pedal is required.



Turns 20 and 21

---------------
I would treat these two sharps as one turn.  Time your drift so that

you just *hit* the right wall and that you can have room to straighten

up your car by the time Turn 22 (hairpin) begins.  A bad drift or a
sloppy undertake would result in the competition catching up with you.



Turn 22

-------
Here, the Cheating Bastard maneuver works here, but it's easier to do

the Cheating Bastard maneuver in this hairpin than in Turn 19 because

you don't have to contend with some slants before the hairpin.  This

applies to the first hairpin just before the tunnel.  As the right

hairpin starts, go way outside, and with zest timing, turn right just

right, and pedal to the metal.  Becoming a cheating bastard takes time

because you need the right timing in order to take on the hairpin at

dangerous speeds (Once again, Jaz Rignall of http://www.psmonline.com).



Turns 23 and 24

---------------

The easiest way to screw up on this turn would be to brake too late

so that your rear tires will overspin and throw you into a spinout.

The best time to slow down to about 40 mph would be when you see some

sections of Turn 23.  Stay at the left side of the track and brake to

40 mph.  When the turn begins, you need a good feel of the gas and the

steering wheel so you would avoid hitting the walls on these two turns.

You may face a spinout if you hit the wall.  The key here is to keep a

straight racing line while taking on this tight chicane without any

drifting (as this will throw you out of control).



Turn 25

-------

Keep your speed to around 100 mph at this final turn.  Speed out from

the turn if you are going to get closer to the left wall.  A good feel

of the gas and the pedal is required here.

========================================================================

MEGASPEED CHAMPIONSHIP



Number of Tracks: 3

Laps per Track: 2

Required Class License: A-Class

Restriction of Car Type: No restriction on the car you can use.

HOWEVER, you are encouraged to get yourself a heavily-chachinated

Mitsubishi GTO TwinTurbo before entering this course!

Tracks involved: High Speed Ring, Test Course, High Speed Ring Reverse

Pole Position Bonus: 5000 Credits

Finish First in the Track Bonus: 15000 Credits

Series Winner Bonus: 30000 Credits

Car you get for winning the race:  Either the Aston Martin DB7 or the

Toyota Soarer.  Neither of these cars are good by default nor wheels

for beginners.
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Vestiroth's note: This is the fastest championship in the game.  You're

at a huge disadvantage unless you have a car capable of speeds of AT

LEAST 238 mph, which is faster than a McLaren.  I wish that the McLaren

F1 was here though.  A high-speed car is required without any exceptions.

You MUST follow these procedures before getting inside this race or you

will have to forget dominating the course (!):



1.  Buy a new Mitsubishi GTO Twinturbo.  I like All-Wheel Drive cars.

    You may think that I'm out of this world because I'm telling you

    these notes, but hey, I want you to dominate the series as

    much as I want you to.


2.  Improve your skills at the GT Cup.  Hopefully, you've got a Toyota

    Castrol Supra GT or a Subaru Impreza Rally Edition on your garage

    to dominate the GT Cup!  Use these cars to earn your dough on the

    GT Cup.


3.  Try to have as many credits as you can because you're going to do

    some expensive tuning at the Ralli Art!


4.  Here's what I want you do from this point on (Remember if you can't

    afford for these parts earlier on, you can always come back later).

    Keep in mind that these are only my recommendations so you should

    experience with different parts throughout your gameplay.  I'm

    thankful to Sam Davis (sdavis1@mail.wsu.edu) because I'm writing

    this FAQ without my Gran Turismo Reference Guide!  Please read his

    Menu Translation Guide at GameFAQs.com:



*  Buy the Sports Muffler
*  Buy the Sports Brake Kit and Brake Balance Controller

*  Buy any Turbo Kit.  The Level 4 Kit has the most speed boost, but the

   greatest Turbo Lag.  This is the only time you'll ever benefit from

   the Level 4 Turbo Kit.

*  Buy the Racing Intercooler kit

*  Buy the Racing Support Suspension Kit

*  Buy Hard Stabilizer Kits on both sides of the car

*  Buy Computer Engine Tune-up, Port Polishing, and Engine Balancing

*  Buy Soft Racing Support Tires

*  Buy Racing Support Gearbox, Triple Clutch, Racing Flywheel, and a

   Carbon Driveshaft (if applicable)

*  Undergo all stages of Weight Reduction

*  Transform your Mitsubishi GTO Twinturbo into a 240 mph screamer!



Remember you can read Sam Davis's Gran Turismo Menu Translation Guide

if you need a better description of these at http://www.gamefaqs.com.



5.  If you followed these procedures, be prepared to snap, crackle, and

    pop the competition!


6.  BTW I'm basing this information driving an overpsyched, Castrolized

    Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo, which is the best car in this series.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

HIGH SPEED RING



This seems to be an easy course, but unless you've got a Mitsubishi GTO

Twin-Turbo fully tuned and capable of going up to 240 mph and/or

capable of prompt acceleration, you will never finish first.  It's in

the utmost importance that you try not to screw up on any occasion as

speed is what you need.  I'll try to strike a good balance between Speed

and Handling, making sure that you don't spin out and that you don't lose

too much speed on turns that may be deadly.



Turn 1

------

Take this turn at full speed.  Be sure at the final stretch of the turn

that you *slightly* slow down so you don't have to worry about hitting

the wall at the right by the time the turn ends.



Turn 2

------

You may want to brake as late as possible so that you can skid here at

higher speeds.  Be sure that you are taking this turn out-and-in, and

by the time you leave the turn, you should prepare for Turns 3 and 4

without much trouble.  Have the car straightened.



Turns 3 and 4

-------------

You may have to do some *blatant* slow down here since these turns are

the most dangerous turns in the track.  I would cut my speed to around

90 mph so I won't be touching the grass or hitting the wall.  Try to

do some rapid gas tapping in this area.  A feel of the gas is required

to ensure control of the Mitsubishi GTO at all costs.



Turn 5

------

Provided that you took Turns 3 and 4 without any blatant trouble, this

would be a good place to prepare for Turn 6.  Stay to the right side

of the track, making sure that you *barely* miss the grass at the right

side of the track.  When Turn 6 starts, you should try to slow down in

a straight line and start taking Turn 6 from the outside and into the

inside.



Turn 6

------

Provided that you have slowed down to ~120 mph, you can take this turn

without having to release the gas pedal.  Make sure that you speed out

if necessary if you feel that you're going to get closer to the wall

at the right.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

TEST COURSE



The hardest course in the series because there's bound to be some drones

who show no mercy in the event that you lack Top Speed.  That's why you

need a car capable of speeds of 238 mph to dominate the course.



Turns 1 and 2

-------------

This is just simple.  You don't need to slow down, but make sure that

you are moving from the outside of the course to the inside of the

course.  Try to cut the apex making sure that your wheels are *just*

missing the grass at the left.  Any wall hitting or grass mowing during

these two turns are grounds for some speed loss, and speed is crucial

to your success here at the Test Course.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

HIGH SPEED RING REVERSE



I don't know what to say for this one because this is *one* bizarre

course.  You will have to beware of the many *parallel* corners that

this track has to offer.  Basically, you will be going around this ring

in reverse, meaning that some strategies have to be adjusted in order

to block off the competition in this track.



Turn 1

------

I found this turn to be the deadliest turn of this track.  If you are

going too fast, that means that you have to slow down ahead of time

*blatantly* in order to avoid contact with the wall, but don't slow

down too early as you will be touching the grass.  I found out that

with some skidding, you should be taking this turn A-OK, but you may

want to take on this turn *according* to your experience.



Turn 2

------

Try to use this turn as a preparation to take on Turns 3 and 4.  Stay

on the inside while taking on this turn, making sure you *barely* miss

the grass at the left side of the screen.  By the time you start Turn

3, you should be at a good position to reduce room for error.



Turns 3 and 4

-------------

As with High Speed Ring, you should be going no faster than ~90 mph

(but you will need to adjust your speed based upon your experience).

Brake ahead of time, cut both turns using out-and-in, and make sure

that you are doing rapid gas tapping often here so you don't end up

hitting the grass or wall.  A good feel of the gas pedal is required.



Turn 5

------

Cut your speed to about 110 mph just before the turn starts.  Don't

cut your speed too early as you'll screw up BAD.  As soon as the

turn starts, you should begin sliding (or taking it in a smooth line

if you don't want to risk losing speed) and as soon as the turn

concludes, straighten up the car.



Turn 6

------

As opposed to turn 1 on the forward track, this turn can be taken at

full speed providing that you have been able to take this turn ahead

of time, and that you don't end up hitting the wall or grass in any

fashion.



========================================================================

COMMERCIAL CAR CHAMPIONSHIP


Number of Tracks: 5

Laps per Track: 5

Required Class License: A-Class

Restriction of Car Type: The car that you're in CANNOT use any

enhancement/modification parts, and you cannot make the car racing-

compliant at all.  When you buy a car that you want to throw inside

this course, DO NOT DO ANYTHING TO THIS CAR!!!!!!!  This series will

determine the fastest commercially available car in the world.

Tracks involved: Autumnring-Mini Reverse, Grand Valley East Reverse,

Clubman Stage Route 5 in Reverse, Deep Forest in Reverse,

Special Stage Route 11 (in no particular order, since it's hard for me

to remember)

Pole Position Bonus: 10000 Credits

Finish First in the Track Bonus: 50000 Credits

Series Winner Bonus: 100000 Credits

Car you get for winning the race: You get a Subaru Impreza or a Toyota

Supra RZ for winning.  Although these cars can be upgraded and trans-

formed into racing cars, sell these lemons to either Subaru for the

Impreza or Toyota for the Supra.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Vestiroth's note: I hope that you dislike this championship series.  I'm

saying this because you're only allowed to use untamed, unmodified,

normal cars, which JUST PLAIN SUCKS!!!!  I've been reading every Game
FAQs
available on line (Please refer to GameFAQs.com and Secrets of the

Sega Sages if you want to know why I'm going to be saying these pet

peeves) and found out that once you master the Dodge Viper GTS, then

you should be doing OK.  Be sure that you're not spinning the rear

wheels as you need every inch of control.  Sadly, PSM Online suggests

that you get the Dodge Viper RT-10, but as a Gran Turismo Player who's

out for more handling than bliss, here's what I want you to REALLY do:



1.  Buy a red Dodge Viper GTS.  DON'T BUY ANY MODIFICATION PARTS OR

    MAKE THIS VIPER RACING-COMPLIANT!  Your next step would be to place

    this Viper GTS on your Memory Card by saving it!


2.  Improve your skills at the Sunday Cup so you can get used to the

    Viper's rather unorthodox control.  I know that the Viper GTS is

    heavier than the RT-10, but I found the Viper GTS more forgiving

    in terms of stability than the watered-up RT-10.


3.  Once you mastered the GTS, then it's time to throw this car on the

    Commercial Car championship (provided that you've got your A-Class

    License).


4.  There are 5 tracks with a grueling 5 laps each track!  Get ready to

    wear out your PlayStation...  Remember to take a 15-30 minute rest

    for every consecutive 2 hours of play.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

AUTUMN RING MINI REVERSE



You should be familiar with this course from the Featherweight and

Economy Car challenge.  Since I'm riding on the Dodge Viper, there are

probably some obvious changes to this section.



Turn 1

------

Cut your speed to about 80 mph just before the turn starts.  Skid this

lamer and by the time the chicanes begin, you should regain control of

the car.



Turns 2-5

---------

Ease yourself throughout this chicane.  Keep your speed around 70 mph to

avoid grass contact.  Try to keep a straight racing line in order to

maintain your top speed.  Use Turn 5 as your cue to Turn 6.



Turn 6

------

You should start skidding at Turn 5 as preparation for undertaking this

turn.  I would say you should cut your speed to around 50 mph when you

undertake Turn 5 so you can treat Turns 5 and 6 as one turn.  Don't

bother accelerating until after you finish Turn 6.



Turn 7

------

Slow down ahead of time so you can cut the apex of the turn.  Skid this

lamer as much as you can (but keep in mind that you may touch the grass

during the Apex cut).  Right before Turn 8 begins, you should have the

car straightened up so you can drift throughout this turn.



Turn 8

------
Drift this turn at around 50 mph (but no more than 60 mph).  Have your

car straightened up after Turn 7 so you can brake smoothly and in a

straight line to avoid any blatant wheelspin and possibly a spin-out.



Turn 9

------

This could be pretty much the worst turn in the track.  You'll need to

slow down to 37 mph just before the turn starts.  Hopefully, you got

the car straightened up after Turn 8 because you need every drop of

control in order to pass this hairpin without error.  Try not to spin

the rear tires as this may result in a blatant spinout.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

GRAND VALLEY EAST REVERSE



Much bizarre than Grand Valley East, GVE Reverse provides some weird

turns, but as long as you don't overspin your tires during harsh turns,
you should be doing fine.



Turns 1 and 2

-------------

The key to taking these two turns is to control your speed without any

blatant slowdown or wheelspin.  A reasonable speed here would be 100

mph (my experimentation here is rather limited, so bear with me) with

some skidding, but you will need to have the car straightened up just

before you take on Turn 3.



Turn 3

------

This turn is pretty damn sharp, so it's important that you slow down

to about 80 mph just before the turn starts so you can cut the apex
of the turn.  You may want to experiment with some sliding here, but

you need to adjust this strategy depending on your experience.



Turns 4 and 5

-------------
No blatant slowing down allowed.  Try to maintain high speed without

wheelspin or blatant skidding.  The key here would be to start these

turns as early as you can so you maintain your out-and-in routine.



Turn 6

------

Turn 6 is where beginners tend to bite the dust.  Cut your speed to

*below* 50 mph just before the Tunnel terminates.  When the turn

begins, you should try to cut the apex as much as you can, but don't

hit the wall at the right or you may overspin the rear tires.

Sliding's acceptable as long as you don't overdo it.



Turn 7

------

The key to taking this turn would be to cut the apex without using

the brakes too much and with a good feel of the gas pedal.  Stay

inside of the track for as much as you can, making sure that your

wheels are touching the slant, *barely* missing the grass.



Turns 8 and 9

-------------

Keep a smooth racing line at all times.  You can go full speed at

Turn 8, but you may have to do some skidding (be sure to turn before

the turn starts) on Turn 9.  Here, the key is to maintain a high

speed without any speed loss and without too much skidding.  A good

feel of the gas pedal, brake, and wheel will allow you to smoothen

up your racing line for speed in this area.



Turn 10

-------

Cut your speed to 60 mph just before the turn begins.  Brake at a

straight line for control, and begin turning when you are comfy
enough.  Don't overdo your drift as you may overspin your rear

wheels.  The key here is to drift to the inside of this turn without

any wheelspin.  You may have to speed out during this turn whenever

appropriate for your safety.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

CLUBMAN STAGE ROUTE 5 REVERSE



Clubman Stage Route 5 Reverse shouldn't be that tough provided that
you're an expert driver in Gran Turismo already.  The only concern that

you should be focusing on is Turn 1, which is indeed *weird*.  Here are

some techniques you'll need in order to nail the competition right here:



Turn 1

------

The greatest concern in the track.  Go to the left side of the track and

when you see some sections of this turn, move *gently* to the inside of

this turn and provided that you're not going to be hitting the bizarre

wall at the start of the turn (which may overspin the wheels and cause

a spin-off), skid.



Turn 2

------

Take this turn out-and-in.  Skid throughout this turn making sure that

you turn as early as you possibly can to avoid hitting the walls.  The

key to taking this turn efficiently is to drift without any early-bird

attempts or any blatant loss in speed.  Keeping a smooth racing line

will result in an increased ratio of speed during this turn.



Turns 3 and 4

-------------

This Ess can be taken at full speed.  Make sure that you yank the car

just before the turn starts because these turns are rather blind for

beginners.



Turn 5

------

Take this turn from the out-and-in, preparing yourself for Turn 6.

Don't slow down too much because this may result in a blatant skid,

something you don't want to do until you reach Turn 6.



Turn 6

------
You can scrape the left wall by turning the car to the right just right

and hug the wall while stepping on the gas but that's risky because you

will burn up the tires and possibly spin the rear wheels.  I would just

skid on this turn (although I may have to hit the wall).  You may have

to adjust your speed depending on your skill.  I would say that 60 mph

is safe to start.



Turn 7

------
Turn gently on this turn, making sure that you are going from the out

and in so you will prepare yourself for the final two turns.  By the

time you start Turn 8, you should be lined up at the left side of the

track.



Turn 8

------

The key to undertaking this turn is to cut the apex as much as possible

without any blatant sliding or slowing down.  Under 100 mph and over 90

mph would be reasonable.  A good feel of the gas and wheel is required

in order to avoid any wall contact.



Turn 9

------

This final turn can be taken at full speed.  If you skid, then just

make sure that you have the car straightened up before you cross the

finish line, as you will need every drop of speed to blast the enemies
into smithereens in this track.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

DEEP FOREST REVERSE



Here comes the grass once again, and it's important that you don't touch

the grass because Commercial Cars tend to lose more control than car
s
with psyched up modification parts and Castrol Stickers.  I'm gonna try

to make sure that you don't touch the grass at all costs by mixing a

good blend of speed and handling, but this could be the course that you

may lose if you don't stay under control at all times.



Turn 1

------

You can powerslide this sucker providing that you braked the car just

before the turn starts, and controlled the slide during the turn. If

you're not crazy about sliding, then you may want to slow down to 95

mph just before the turn starts.



Turns 2 and 3

-------------

Turn 2 can be taken at full speed.  However, you will need to slow down

at a straight line when you are about to undertake Turn 3.  I would say

85 mph with some sliding would be reasonable enough to avoid hitting

the wall at the left.



Turns 4 and 5

-------------

These turns are as close as you'll find with a straightaway, so make

sure that you are keeping a straight racing line to ensure that your

car is running straight and smooth so you can slow down by the time

you see some sections of Turn 6.



Turn 6

------

When you see some sections of the turn, you should cut your speed

according to the weight of your car.  Keep in mind that heavier car
s
tend to take longer to slow down, so you will need to keep that in

mind.  Cut your speed to 110 mph before the turn starts, and when

Turn 6 begins, release the gas pedal, brake, and rapid-tap the gas.

I would say that you're going to end up going 80 mph sliding for the

most part.



Turns 7 and 8

-------------

The key to undertaking these turns is to keep a smooth racing line

without any blatant slowdown.  You should try to speed out if you

risk going inside the grass, but you should never try to get into a

blatant slide here.  When you are inside the tunnel, you should be
at
a smooth racing line so that you can slow down in preparation for

turns 9 and 10.



Turns 9 and 10

--------------

Slow down to 60 mph when you are inside the tunnel.  You should be

below 60 mph by the time Turn 9 begins.  You can skid throughout this

turn, but it's rather dangerous because if you land on the grass, then

you'll accidentially spin the rear wheels (causing a possible spinout).

You will need to be running in a straight line by the time you get

inside the tunnel that signals Turn 10.  Again, cut your speed (but

don't slow down too much) while inside the tunnel, and as the tunnel

ends, begin to skid.  Try to use the out-and-in technique and make
sure that you are not going inside the grass.



Turns 11-13

-----------
A smooth racing line will help you set up for the final hairpin at the

final stretch of the track.  Just make sure that you are not undergoing

a blatant skid or any grass mowing during these three turns.



Turn 14
-------

Go to the leftmost lane and cut your speed to about 60 mph.  When the

turn starts, lean to the inside of the track, and forget about using

the gas in full until you can get out of the haripin without error.

The key to undertaking this hairpin is with *zest* speed control.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11



This course is just plain hard.  Nuff said.



Turn 1

------

This turn can be taken at full speed.  Just don't get so greedy in the

turn that you forget turning in the second turn.



Turn 2

------
Slow down from the outside.  Then as the turn begins, slide throughout

most of the turn (although you may have to hit the wall, it takes

practice to avoid the wall in this course since Special Stage Route 11

is laden with sharps).  Be sure that you're braking at a straight line

and slowing down ahead of time so that you don't spin out the rear

tires at the middle of the turn.



Turns 3 and 4

-------------

It may be *necessary* (but shouldn't be that bad) to slow down, but

don't do too much slowing down as you may risk spinning the rear

wheels blatantly.  Do a slide and you'll be risking hitting a wall

at the left or hitting the gas canisters just before Turns 5 and 6.

The key to undertaking this turn would be to take this turn with the

smoothest possible line without slowing down too much and without

any blatant skidding.  After you finish up this turn, you'll need

to slow down again because you're going to take on Turns 5 and 6
next!



Turns 5 and 6

-------------

You'll need to be slowing down ahead of time, begin turning (or

sliding if you feel adventurous), and going no more than around 50

mph (IMHO) in order to avoid any possible wall hit.  Just a little

before Turn 6, be careful not to stay on the left because the slant

may drag your car at the right side of the track and may cause some

blatant rear wheel spin if you don't move away from the left in time

so be sure that you swerve right to preserve your rear tires (and to

prepare for Turn 6).  By the time you are about to undertake Turn 6,

you should be sliding (if you want to) and just before Turn 7, you

should have the car straightened up.  Don't accelerate while you

are taking on these twin sharps.



Turn 7

------

You need to slow down as early as you can (to avoid blatant rear

wheelspin) and take on this hairpin at speeds less than 40 mph.  In

order to block off chances of spinning out, do not feed in too much

gas during this turn.  This turn demands that you have a good feel

of the brakes and the gas.  If not, then be prepared to get punished

by the competition.



Turns 8 and 9

-------------

Turn 8 can be taken at full speed.  Turn 9 is a sharp left that you will

have to attempt slowing down ahead of time so that you don't overspin

the rear wheels.  When taking on Turn 9, brake while the straight is

"here", and when the turn starts (and by the time you drift), you should

be able to bring in some control into your car, but don't overuse the

gas in this turn or you may be overspinning the rear wheels (and perhaps

that's a sign that you will spin out).



Turns 10-13

-----------

A Viper's nightmare.  You may want to cut your speed to around 80

mph so you don't end up hitting the wall, which may overspin your

tires if you keep the foot on the Gas Pedal.  Try to make sure you're
turning ahead of time and never get into a lousy skid as you may spin

out or perhaps hit the wall and melt your tired down.



Turns 14 and 15

---------------

These turns can be taken at full speed, but you need to use Turn 15

and the *slight* straightaway in order to prepare for Turns 16 and 17,

which comes in *just about* immediately, so you will need the car

straightened up in preparation for speed reduction for the next chicane.



Turns 16 and 17

---------------

If you used the brake while on a lousy position (from Turns 14 and 15),

then you're in for a spinout.  Keep the car running straight, release

the gas pedal, and at around 40-50 mph, I would take on the first half

of the chicane from the out and in but I have to immediately swerve my

car to the left because I'm in for the next chicane.  By the time I

turn at Turn 18, I should *be able* to have the car straightened up and

ready to drift at the next medium or sharp left.



Turn 18

-------

There is no need to brake here (since you've been slowing down at the

chicane), but you'll need to have a good feel of the gas and the brakes

in order to take on this turn without hitting any walls.  Cutting the

apex is acceptable as long as you don't overdo it.  You can slide here

but it's considered dangerous since you risk burning up your tires.



Turn 19

-------

There's some easy slants just before this painful hairpin.  You may

wish to do the "Cheating Bastard" maneuver by leaning at the outside of

the track and then with zest timing lean to the right *just right* and

pedal to the metal.  You must time your wheel yanks correctly in order

to cheat on this hairpin.  However, you risk having to wear out your

tires and may face a possible spinout by all means, so an alternative

to the Cheating Bastard maneuver (BTW it's Jaz Rignall of PSM Online

who came up with the idea of the Cheating Bastard), brake just a little

before the left slant begins, and when your speed is below 55 mph,

start drifting.  You must be in complete control of your car at all

times because this is where you tend to spin out.  A good feel of the

gas and pedal is required.



Turns 20 and 21

---------------

I would treat these two sharps as one turn.  Time your drift so that

you just *hit* the right wall and that you can have room to straighten
up your car by the time Turn 22 (hairpin) begins.  A bad drift or a

sloppy undertake would result in the competition catching up with you.



Turn 22

-------

Here, the Cheating Bastard maneuver works here, but it's easier to do

the Cheating Bastard maneuver in this hairpin than in Turn 19 because

you don't have to contend with some slants before the hairpin.  This

applies to the first hairpin just before the tunnel.  As the right

hairpin starts, go way outside, and with zest timing, turn right just

right, and pedal to the metal.  Becoming a cheating bastard takes time

because you need the right timing in order to take on the hairpin at

dangerous speeds (Once again, Jaz Rignall of http://www.psmonline.com).



Turns 23 and 24

---------------

The easiest way to screw up on this turn would be to brake too late

so that your rear tires will overspin and throw you into a spinout.

The best time to slow down to about 40 mph would be when you see some

sections of Turn 23.  Stay at the left side of the track and brake to

40 mph.  When the turn begins, you need a good feel of the gas and the

steering wheel so you would avoid hitting the walls on these two turns.

You may face a spinout if you hit the wall.  The key here is to keep a

straight racing line while taking on this tight chicane without any

drifting (as this will throw you out of control).



Turn 25

-------

Keep your speed to around 100 mph at this final turn.  Speed out from

the turn if you are going to get closer to the left wall.  A good feel

of the gas and the pedal is required here.



========================================================================

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS



The purpose of creating Gran Turismo FAQs grouped by License Classes is

to provide help in how to pass the license tests, and how to get first

place in each track and series. This also happens to be one of the

PlayStation games where I've been receiving lots of stupid e-mail about

questions that can be easily answered by myself when I was only 7 years

of age. Before you even e-mail me about Gran Turismo again, you are
strongly advised to look over this section before e-mailing me.  Most
of your questions should be answered by just simply looking at this FAQ
and/or just by looking at this section!



Q: Is there a code to unlock the 1967 Chevrolet Corvette in the Simulation

   Mode of the game?



A: Hell no. This car is only available at the Arcade Mode of the game.



Q: How come you don't write any FAQs for the Arcade Mode of the game?



A: Simple. Because much of the game's replay value is centralized

   throughout the Simulation Mode.



Q: Why do you tell me to use the FWD and AWD cars in any of your GT

   FAQs?



A: They're a lot more stable and more forgiving to drive than Rear

   Wheel Cars, which require a lot of respect. My personal favorite

   is the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition with AWD, a great prize you

   can have for winning the US Versus Japan Championships.



Q: Why don't you use the Concept Car?



A: I hate the Concept Car. It's rather unstable and it sucks (IMHO).

   However, Adrian Pepper recommends that you try it in one race

   although you may hate the unstable nature of the car. You have to

   test the car and keep on fiddling the car until you find the right

   settings for you. To caution you, never, ever, ever fiddle the

   car's settings (you've got to know the car's strengths and weaknesses

   first) unless you know what you're doing.  This is my most hated

   car from my perspective, and this car isn't Mark Kim-approved

   at all.



Q: Do I NEED to run all stages of Weight Reduction before buying the

   Racing Body?



A: Now this is one interesting question. I usually purchase all stages

   of Weight Reduction before buying the Racing Body. However, this is

   what has Brian McNulty said to me on a previous message:
 

   "I am writing to you about your B, A, and IA strategy guides. I have

    noted several times that you make notes telling people to 'Make sure

    that you buy all the stages of weight reduction before you buy the

    racing modification'.


    This is not acurate in that your car will weigh the same after the

    racing modification regardless of whether or not you buy the weight

    reduction or not.


    I conducted an experiment with Mutsubishi GTO Twin Turbo. The car

    brand new weighs 3769 lbs, after three stages of weight reduction,

    AND, racing modification it weighed 2713 lbs.


    I then bought another GTO same color and all weighing 3769 lbs. off

    the lot and performed ONLY the racing modification. Both of these

    cars *Castrolized* weighed 2713 lbs, one with the racing mod., the
    other without.


    Try it some time and E-mail me with the results."



Q: What are the best cars to use for each series?



A: Here's the lowdown:


   Sunday Cup: A car that's powerful enough.
 

  Clubman Cup: An adequately-powered up Nissan Skyline GTS-R
   GT Cup: A fully-tuned Nissan Skyline GTS-R or a Mitsubishi FTO LM


   GT World Cup: Same as with the GT Cup


   Front-Wheel Drive: Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R, Fully Tuned, Racing

   Body under your discretion.


   Rear-Wheel Drive: Dodge Viper or TVR Cerbera. The Viper GTS-R

   and Cerbera LM are also strong cars.


   All-Wheel Drive: Any Nissan Skyline GTS-R


   Featherweight Championships: Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R, Fully

   Tuned.  I personally would try to get a racing body with this one.


   US Versus Japan: Nissan Skyline GTS-R or Mitsubishi FTO LM


   Japan Versus UK: Nissan Skyline GTS-R or Mitsubishi FTO LM

   US Versus UK: TVR Cerbera LM or Dodge Viper GTS-R


   Commercial Car Championships: Dodge Viper GTS/RT-10 (Don't do

   anything to it) or the Rarity from the IA License Tests.


   Heavily Tuned Championships: Heavily Tuned Nissan Skyline GT-R

   (No Racing Bodies).  This is the hardest race to win on because

   you can't bring along your big-daddy racing cars to this one, which

   is a sad moment!


   Megaspeed: Nissan Skyline GT-R V-Spec or Mitsubishi GTO

   Twinturbo/MR fully fiddled for speeds of at least 245 mph


   Grand Valley Endurance: Mitsubishi FTO LM


   Special Stage Route 11 Endurance: Mitsubishi FTO LM
   Special Stage Route 11 Reverse Endurance: Heavily Tuned Nissan

   Skyline GT-R (No Racing Bodies).  This is another difficult race to

   win.  Definitely configure your car for handling here.



Q: I can't get past License A-4!



A: This is one of the game's toughest tests in the Simulation Mode. The

   key in this license test is to corner through bad turns without blatant

   slowdown. The Nissan Skyline GT-R VSpec isn't an easy car to use so

   this track may require use of Manual Transmission. At the starting line,
   you want to cut through the apex and stay inside

   all the way at full speed. Slow down ahead of time from the outside

   before the first sharp turn and don't brake too hard. Cut the apex of

   the sharp turn and use short taps of the gas to buffer the cornering.

   If you have to slow down, just use short taps of the pedal. At the

   final major turn, you want to be at the outside and then just use the

   gas pedal. Cut the apex. Try to keep a smooth line all the way so

   that you don't lose speed from sliding through the turn. This test

   takes a lot of getting used to so don't get pissed if you can't pass it

   your first couple of times. This test mainly sees how competent of a

   driver you are rather than on speed.


   Be sure to pay attention to my Gran Turismo A-Class License Guide as

   it has some rough hypothesis on this cheap test!



Q: Tell me the eligible cars for the featherweight championships!



A: The eligible cars are as follows:


   * Toyota Starlet Glanza V

   * Toyota Corolla Levin BZG

   * Toyota Sprinter Trueno BZG

   * Toyota AE86 Corolla Levin GT-APEX

   * Toyota AE86 Sprinter Trueno GT-APEX

   * Mitsubishi FTO 1994 GR

   * Mitsubishi FTO 1994 GPX

   * Mitsubishi FTO GPX

   * Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R

   * Mitsubishi Mirage Asti RX

   * Mitsubishi Mirage 1992 Cyborg R

   * Acura Integra GS-R

   * Acura Integra Type R

   * Honda Civic Sedan

   * Honda Civic Racer

   * Honda Civic 3-Door

   * Honda Civic Del Sol S

   * Honda Civic Del Sol Si

   * Honda Civic 1991 CR-X Si

   * Honda Civic 1993 3-Door

   * Honda Civic 1993 Sedan

   * Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster 1989 Normal

   * Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster 1990 V-Special

   * Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster 1992 S-Special

   * Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster Normal

   * Miata Eunos Roadster V-Special

   * Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster S-Special

   * Mazda Demio GL-X

   * Mazda Demio GL

   * Mazda Demio LX G-Package

   * Mazda Demio A-Spec.


   All cars (with the exception of the Demio A-Spec) are shown on your

   GT Manual and Instruction Book.



Q: I can't get past License Test B-3!!!



A: It's time for the real fight. This test is possibly the toughest test

   among the B-Class License Tests. Since the Honda Civic Del Sol

   doesn't have lively acceleration and excellent speed, your best bet is

   to stay at the right side of the track and try to slow down ahead of

   time. Don't use the brakes since you may blatantly slow down. Use

   short taps of the Gas to level around the apex and make sure that

   you keep a smooth driving line so that you don't lose too much speed.

   I highly recommend using the Manual Transmission for this track.



Q: I CAN'T PASS A SINGLE IA-LICENSE TEST!!!



A: All of these IA-Class License Tests are set on the Time Trials,

   requiring you to utilize just about everything you learned from the

   B and A Class Events. If for any reason you can't master any of the

   IA-License Tests, then here are the solutions:
 

   1. Try attempting on all of the first seven License Tests. If

      for any reason you can't pass any of the seven license

      tests, then just exit out of the IA License Tests and save

      your progress to your Memory Card.
 

   2. The best way to know how to use the Dodge Viper GTS

      Coupe is to throw the Dodge Viper GTS Coupe on the

      Commercial Car Championships. Buy a Viper GTS Coupe

      and don't do anything to it. Not only this is a great way

      to get used to the Viper GTS Coupe, but it's also a great

      way to earn some cold hard cash.


   3. Try to buy a TVR Griffith and don't do anything to it. Test

      the TVR Griffith through the "freelance" Time Trial Runs

      and see how good you are with the Griffith. You may

      need to practice with the TVR through the Sunday Cup a

      few times to get used to it.


   4. I personally would try to get used to a car with at least

      500 Horsepower. There are plenty of Racing Models that

      has lots of horses under the hood. Also, try to get used

      to a fully-tuned, racing modified Nissan Skyline GT-R or a

      Mitsubishi GTO TwinTurbo/MR.


   5. I personally would participate in any of these A-Class

      Series: All International Competition Series, GT Cup, and

      the Commecial Car Series. Also, try to use a Rear-Drive

      Racing Car so that you can get used to the Rear-Drive

      Cars a lot better.



Q: Please tell me what the cheats are.



A: I'll make this clear: THERE ARE NO CHEAT CODES IN GRAN TURISMO!!!!

   Sony did a good job creating a game that has NO CHEAT CODES

   whatsoever. Cheat codes ONLY RUIN REPLAY VALUE so be it. PLEASE DO

   NOT BEG ME FOR ANY MORE GRAN TURISMO/GRAN TURISMO 2 CHEAT CODES

   THROUGH E-MAIL ANYMORE!!! I'm getting sick and tired of

   anybody begging me for any cheat codes!!!! If you EVEN DARE

   ask me for any cheat codes for Gran Turismo or Gran Turismo 2,

   then I will assume you spamming me.



Q: What do you mean by "Castrolizing" the car?



A: I use the term "Castrolize" as a classification when you tune up

   your car to the maximum possible levels.  This means maxing-out the

   brakes, gearshaft, horsepower, and all other attributes of the car.

   I'll leave the decision between weight reduction and racing body up

   to you, though.



Q: When are you going to create an FAQ for Gran Turismo 2 for the Play

   Station?



A: Definitely not.  I was overall disappointed with the sequel.



========================================================================

THE DO'S AND DONT'S



Again, this FAQ is for use only in the following sites:

* Mark Kim's Website: http://home.comcast.net/~markkim31
* GameFAQs http://www.gamefaqs.com




If you find this FAQ is AT ANY OTHER SITE OTHER THAN THE LISTED ABOVE,

THEN IT IS AN ILLEGAL COPY.  Please notify and/or warn me about this

as soon as you can.  Thank you.



In addition, only myself (Mark Kim, Vesther Fauransy) and Gamers.COM

(http://www.gamers.com, Joel, please notify me of any address changes

if you are reading this) are the ONLY ones who can HTMLize this file

(with bug busts and grammar changes permitted).



Why?  Because these sites are the only ones that keep all original work

updated and up-to-date.



You can always get the latest version of this FAQ at GameFAQs since I
always put the latest version of my works right there first.




GameFAQs does a good job keeping the files up-to-date at all times and
is regarded as the most visited "stable" for FAQ-related walkthroughs,

original work, and the like.



Rules:



* DO NOT place this file in your web site directly.  Only Joel Downs,
  GameFAQs, and myself have exclusive rights to this file.



* If you are planning to link to any of the sites I have

  mentioned on this reminder, then you are to be advised that

  your linking rights are heavily limited as foretold on the

  webmaster's fine prints (depending on where you plan to make

  your link to).  If I'm too vague on this, then please visit

  the following URL to see why more and more webmasters are

  restricting links:


  = http://www.templetons.com/brad/linkright.html (Brad Templeton's

    Linking Rights Essay).


========================================================================

REFERENCES OF THIS FAQ



NO GT FAQ can be complete without giving "hard credit" for those who

helped me out while I was still green on this game.  These people/sites

are:



*  Jaz Rignall (http://www.psmonline.com)

*  GameFAQs.com (http://www.gamefaqs.com)

*  Mousse Lee

*  Mystery Rhee (http://mit.edu/mystery/www/gtfaq.txt)

*  Sam Davis

*  Fukomoto Atsushi (http://www.imasy.or.jp/~fukumoto/gt/)

*  Secrets of the Sega Sages (http://www.segasages.com)

*  Imagine Games Network (http://www.imaginegames.com)



========================================================================

SUGGESTING SUGGESTIONS AND OTHER TRALALA



Sending UCE to any of the mailboxes that I have is not tolerated.
Period.  I report any incidence of spamming by checking the header on

where you originated the message at and then report the incidence to
the server you originated your message at (which is more likely to get

you in deep trouble) or I can just slam you by sending complaints to

the following: The server you originated the message at, to your

provider, or possibly the Free-Mail Service that you use.  Don't spam

me.  It's not worth it.

In addition, I WILL _NO LONGER_ TOLERATE ANY E-MAIL ASKING ME FOR ANY

CHEATS COMPATIBLE FOR GRAN TURISMO.  If you even dare ask me for any

cheat codes for GT, then I will assume that you are spamming.


See http://spam.abuse.net to see why it's bad.



========================================================================

SOME RANTS

After having to winder around the International A Class License tests,
I managed to get my IA-Class License and saved this progress on my

Memory Card.  This is good because I don't want to go through the
trouble of having to get my license once again.  It may be hard to get

your IA License but once you get it, then it's worth the effort of

getting it.



When I read one of GameFan's magazines (Commercial Magazines now suck

these days, now that you can get hardcore strategies on the Internet

for free), I've realized that there is NO CHEAT CODES listed for Gran

Turismo.  Be it.  There is no cheat codes for Gran Turismo.  Sony will

not create any cheat codes for any game that they might publish or

develop and never will.  Cheat Codes only spoil replay value, and that's

the bottom line!



========================================================================

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS



*  Jaz Rignall for being the standard example of Gran Turismo Domination

   and being the wiz in Gran Turismo.  Read his Gran Turismo Guide at

   http://www.psmonline.com.


*  Sony and Polyphony Digital for creating the best PlayStation Game in

   the market ever yet.


*  Toyota, Honda, Acura, Nissan, Mitsubishi, Mazda, Subaru, Chrysler,

   General Motors, TVR, and Aston Martin for permitting Sony to portray

   their cars in Gran Turismo.


*  Fukomoto Atsushi, Sam Davis, Mousse Lee, and Mystery Rhee for being

   one of the many first FAQ Authors to produce a Gran Turismo FAQ.


*  Secrets of the Sega Sages for secrets regarding about winning the

   Commercial Car Race.
*  Imagine Games Network for accepting Sega Sages and GameFAQs.com as

   IGN Affiliates.
*  Tigeraid (John Culbert) for using my Gran Turismo Documents as a basis

   for creating his own compendium.


  Joel Downs for creating HTMLized versions of my Gran Turismo Documents

   and for days of e-mail communication.


*  GameFAQs for being the largest stable of original, fresh work.


*  Chris MacDonald/Kao Megura for being the first 5MB FAQ Author.



** END OF DOCUMENT **



Unpublished Work (tm) and (c) by Mark Kim.  All Rights Reserved

Gran Turismo: (tm) and (c) by Sony Computer Entertainment.  Developed

by Polyphony Digital.  All the cars, images, their likelinesses, and

other real-life car-related events are (tm) and (c) of their respective

owners.