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    A-Class License Guide by MKim

    Version: Final | Updated: 03/27/05 | Printable Version | Search Guide | Bookmark Guide

                                  Gran Turismo
    
                    A-Class License Winning Strategies Guide
    
              Sony Computer Entertainment/Polyphony Digital for the
    
                           Sony PlayStation 1 Console
    
    WARNING: This guide will ONLY work for the American versions of the game
    
                             Compiled by Mark Kim
    
                                Final Revision
    
                      Date of Completion: March 27, 2005
    
    
    
    Copyright Information
    
    ---------------------
    
    Unpublished work trademarked (tm) and copyrighted (c) by Mark Kim.
    
    All Rights Reserved.
    
    
    
    WARNING: This document is for use in the following websites only:
    
    * Mark Kim's website (http://home.comcast.net/~markkim31)
    
    * GameFAQs (http://www.gamefaqs.com)
    
    
    
    Sales, profit-making, publishing any or all of this information to for-
    profit
    print, unauthorized mirroring, marketing, and/or other unauthorized
    
    activity of this document is a violation of all applicable copyright laws,
    
    international treaties, the Berne Copyright Act of 1976, various Digital
    
    Copyright Amendments, and Internet Service Provider Acceptable Use
    
    Policies.  Violators will be prosecuted to the fullest extent of the law
    
    and will be penalized to the most severe allowed by law.  This document
    
    is provided "AS IS" and without warranty--Mark Kim does not warrant this
    
    document for any reason.  This document was created and compiled with
    
    respect to all intellectual copyrights, properties, and/or trademarks
    
    and patents, as no copyright infringement was intended.  License is
    
    granted only if this entire document is unedited, and in one piece.
    
    
    
    TO MAKE IT SIMPLE: DON'T STEAL, DON'T MAKE MONEY OUT OF IT, AND DON'T
    
    ATTEMPT TO TRANSLATE IT FOR ANY FOR-PAY PRINT MAGAZINE WHATSOEVER.
    
    Gran Turismo is developed by Polyphony Digital under license by Sony
     Computer
    Entertainment, Inc.  This game is copyrighted 1997, 1998 Sony
     Computer
    Entertainment.  All Rights Reserved.  The cars, images, and
     all cars'
    likeliness are registered trademarks and copyrights of its
     respective owners.
    All Rights Reserved.  This FAQ was created by Mark
     Kim in respect to Sony,
    Polyphony Digital, Mazda, Honda, Acura, Toyota,
     Mitsubishi, Aston Martin,
    Chevrolet, Nissan, TVR, Dodge, and Subaru
     Properties, as I have no
    intention of infringement on copyright on any
     of this work.
    
    
    
    ========================================================================
    
    GENERAL INFORMATION
    
    
    
    Make: Gran Turismo
    
    Developer: Polyphony Digital
    
    Publisher: Sony Computer Entertainment
    
    Release Date: First Quarter 1998
    
    ESRB Classification: E for Everyone, Suitable for All Ages
    
    Genre: Racing
    
    Platform: Sony PlayStation Type 1
    
    MSRP: Sold as Greatest Hits for Low Price if still available
    
    Recommended Controllers: Sony Analog Dual-Shock Controller
    
    Features: Memory Card Save.  Each save requires in between 1-5 blocks.
    
    
    
    ========================================================================
    
    HISTORY OF THIS FAQ
    
    
    
    March 27, 2005: This is the final edition of this FAQ as I will no longer
    
    update this for any reason.  Sorry.
    
    
    
    ========================================================================
    
    
    CONTENTS OF THIS FAQ
    
    
    *  Newsflash
    
    *  Some recommendations
    
    *  Classification of Car Castrolization
    
    *  What is an A Class License?
    
    *  A-Class License Examinations
    
       = Practical Cornering Part 1
    
       = Practical Cornering Part 2
    
       = Practical Cornering Part 3
    
       = Advanced Cornering Part 1
    
       = Advanced Cornering Part 2
    
       = Advanced Cornering Part 3
    
       = Powersliding
    
       = Coping with Hairpins at High Speeds (Final Exam)
    
    *  Clubman Cup
    
    *  GT Cup
    
    *  Japanese and American Car Championship
    
    *  Japanese and British Car Championship
    
    *  American and British Car Championship
    
    *  Megaspeed Championship
    
    *  Commercial Car Championship
    
    *  The Do's and Dont's
    
    *  Some Rants
    
    *  Resources and Stuff
    
    *  Acknowledgements
    
    *  One Final Warning
    
    
    
    ========================================================================
    
    NEWSFLASH
    
    
    
    ***AN IMPORTANT RANT FROM THE FAQ AUTHOR***
    
    
    
    AS YOU SHOULD HAVE NOTICED FROM MY PREVIOUS WORKS, I WILL _NOT_ BE
    
    ACCEPTING ANY E-MAILS FROM ANY WEBMASTER WHO SEEKS TO PLACE THIS FILE
    
    ON THEIR OWN WEBSITE REGARDLESS OF THE CAUSE.  THIS IS BECAUSE THERE
    
    ARE TOO MANY SITES THAT _STILL_ HAS THE OUTDATED VERSION OF MY WORKS
    
    AND I REALLY HATE TO SEE IT LURKING AROUND THE INTERNET.  THE REASON
    WHY I HAVE TO RESTRICT THE AMOUNT OF WEBSITES THAT CAN MIRROR MY WORKS
    
    IS BECAUSE I WANT TO KEEP MY WORKS CURRENT AND UP-TO-DATE.  ANY MORE
    
    E-MAILS REQUESTING PERMISSION TO MIRROR THIS FILE _WILL_ BE FILTERED.
    
    THE ONLY SITES THAT HAVE MY SEAL OF APPROVAL TO MIRROR MY WORKS ARE
    
    THE SITES LISTED IN THE COPYRIGHT INFORMATION IN THE BEGINNING OF
    
    EVERY OF MY WORKS.
    
    
    
    IF FOR ANY REASON YOU _DO_ MIRROR ANY OF MY WORKS ON YOUR OWN WEBSITE
    
    WITHOUT MY SEAL OF APPROVAL, INSTANT LEGAL ACTION WILL BE TAKEN
    
    IMMEDIATELY.  I APPRECIATE YOUR COOPERATION IN THIS MATTER AND AGAIN,
    
    THE ANSWER WILL _ALWAYS_ BE NO IF FOR ANY REASON IF YOU WANT TO PLACE
    
    THIS FILE INSIDE YOUR WEBSITE REGARDLESS OF THE CAUSE AND WHETHER THE
    
    CONTENT FROM ANY OF MY WORKS IS EITHER GOOD OR BAD.
    
    
    
    THIS HAS BEEN MY POLICY EVER SINCE I HAVE STARTED TO RESTRICT THE
    
    AMOUNT OF SITES THAT ARE PERMITTED TO MIRROR MY WORKS AND IT WILL
    
    ALWAYS BE.
    
    
    
    Note: This notice is derived on Brett "Nemesis" Franklin's Crazy Taxi
    
    FAQ for the Sega Dreamcast although there has been some variations to
    
    make this one more severe and a bit more formal. Also, I will repeat
    
    this near the end of the document.
    
    Always check http://www.gamefaqs.com for the latest version of this
    FAQ.  Like I said, this is the final update of the FAQ's life as I have
    declared an EOL on this FAQ, so there will be no more updates!!!
    
    Sorry.
    
    This document, like all Video Game FAQs on the Internet, must be
    
    viewed in a monotype font or the alignment will not be correct.  If
    
    the alignment isn't correct for any reason, then please follow these
    
    procedures:
    
    
    
    1.  On Netscape Communicator, click on Edit, then Preferences.
    
    2.  Click on Fonts at the Appearance Section
    
    3.  At the Fixed Width Font, select Courier New, and select size 10
    
        point font.
    
    4.  If you see this sample bulk of writing aligned correctly, please
    
        proceed:
    
    
    
    1234567890
    
    **********
    
    
    
    It is strongly advisable that you *do* view this document through
    
    the DOS Application Edit.COM or through the Apple Text Viewer SimpleText
    
    for alignment purposes.  If you are planning to view this through
    
    the Windows Interface, then you are highly advised to open up WordPad
    
    and then open up the Text File.  Set the font face to Courier New and
    
    set the font size to 10.
    
    
    
    ========================================================================
    
    RECOMMENDATIONS
    
    
    
    1.  Since you must possess the B-Class License before you can get the
    
        A-Class License, go take and pass all 8 B-Class License Tests before
    
        taking the 8 A-Class License tests first.  After you get the B-Class
    
        License, you may wish to get your A-Class License from this point,
    
        but I recommend that you go race all B-Class races first.
    
    
    
    2.  A good way to practice all of your skills in the Simulation Mode
    
        right after you get your B-Class License would be to play lots of
    
        games at the Sunday Cup to improve your skills.  Although you don't
    
        earn too much credits for the B-Class Championship series, it's a
    
        steady way to upgrade your car.
    
    
    
    3.  Since you start with only 10,000 in a mint-vanilla data file, I
    
        highly recommend that you purchase a Toyota MA70Supra of some sorts
    
        because the acceleration and handling should suit your needs.  I
    
        have to warn you though that unless you learn how to tame this used
    
        car, the MA70Supra will spin out pretty often, so it's important
    
        that you don't overspin the Rear Wheels.
    
    
    
    4.  Spot Races are a great way to improve your skills, but for Pole
    
        Positioning you will only earn 500 credits, and if you win the race,
    
        you will only get 1,000 credits.  I would just get my B-License and
    
        participate in the Sunday Cup often instead.
    
    
    
    5.  Once you get enough credits, you may upgrade your MA70 Supra to suit
    
        your own tastes, or you can get certain cars that you want to
    
        commandeer.
    
    
    
    6.  After you get used to the Sunday Cup, try the B-Class special events
    
        to push your skills further, and once your skills are polished, I
    
        would start with the Clubman Cup first since you are not gonna have
    
        any powerful cars to spare in the GT Cup.
    
    
    
    7.  There are bound to be restrictions on the car that you can ride on
    
        during the Special Event Championships.  I'll pin-point any possible
    
        restrictions which may apply.
    
    
    
    8.  Gran Turismo is the most realistic racing game up to date, so I
    
        recommend that you just enjoy the game.  Although you may get pissed
    
        just because the computer races unfairly, you should try to discover
    
        new techniques or/and routines to improve your skills.  Having fun
    
        while playing Gran Turismo is the most important part that I'm asking
    
        of you.
    
    
    
    9.  Before YOU EVEN PLAY GRAN TURISMO, buy yourself a PlayStation Dual
    
        Shock Analog Controller.  When you turn on your PlayStation, set the
    
        analog ON, because your thumb doesn't like to be rubbing the D-Pad
    
        for 2-3 hours.  I recommend using this controller over the D-Pad
    
        because the Analog Stick is a lot more comfy (though takes time to
    
        master) than having to rub my thumb on the D-Pad.
    
    10. I highly recommend that you go to http://www.psmonline.com and check
        out Jaz Rignall's Gran Turismo Guide.
    
    
    
    ========================================================================
    
    CASTROLIZATION OF THE CARS
    
    
    
    When I first created this document about 2 years ago, I felt that if
    
    you modify the cars to the teeth, then the cars would definitely be
    
    unbeatable.  I was wrong.  Because each cars have its own strengths
    
    and weaknesses, beefing the cars up to maximum strength varies from
    
    car to car.  For example, a Viper GTS Coupe can't go up to NA Level
    
    3 but starts out with a lot of horsepower and torque when you first
    
    buy it.  On the other hand, some of the better cars in the game (i.e.
    
    Nissan Skyline GT-R VSpec) _can_ be beefed up to the teeth with the
    
    highest level modification parts available in the game.  Please
    
    be warned that some cars may have higher prices as far as mod parts
    
    are concerned.
    
    Usually, cars perform better when they use maximum-
    strength modification
     parts, but some cars perform better without the
    brute force they need.  
    Some of the Japanese Cars (i.e. Nissan Skyline
    GT-R VSpec) cannot perform 
    well unless you've placed a maximum-strength
    mod part or two.  That is 
    why learning the tracks and winning them all
    is as important as fully tuning your cars to the teeth.
    
    
    
    Unless you are a real mechanic, you should never fiddle with some of the
    
    settings because you can either make a car unstable, stiff, or even
    
    worse, unforgiving to use.  That is why you need to think twice before
    
    even adjusting some of the car's properties (i.e. Suspension) before
    
    even attempting this risk.  That is why some cars perform better when
    
    fully Castrolized than the others.
    
    
    
    Castrolizing your car involves tuning up your car with the following
    
    Tune-Ups:
    
    
    * Muffler and Air Filter
    
      = Racing Muffler and Air Filter
    
    * Brakes
    
      = Sports Brakes
    
      = Brake Balance Controller
    
    * Engine Tuning
    
      = Tuned ROM
    
      = Port Polishing
    
      = Engine Balancing
    
      = Bore and Stroke-Up (Increasing Displacement)
    
    * For Turbo Cars
    
      = Turbo Kit Level 4
    
      = Racing High-Capacity Intercooler
    
    * For Normal Aspirated Cars
    
      = Normal Aspiration Tuneup Kit Level 3 (This applies ONLY to some cars)
    
    * Transmission
    
      = Racing Support Gearbox
    
      = Triple-Plate Clutch
    
      = Racing Flywheel
    
      = Carbon Driveshaft (only applies to certain cars)
    
    * Suspension
    
      = Racing Support Suspension
    
      = Any Stabilizers (Remember overstiffening your car's suspension will
    
        equate to lousy driving)
    
    * Tires
      = Soft/Soft Racing Tires
    
    * Others
    
      = Weight Reduction All Stages (All stages of Weight Reduction MUST be
    
        performed in order
    
      = Racing Body Modification
    
    
    
    Well, that's all I can say for now!!!
    
    
    
    ========================================================================
    
    THE VIRTUE AND THE TITLE OF AN A-CLASS LICENSE
    
    
    
    Note: You _MUST_ possess a B-Class License before attempting an A-Class
    
    License Test as stated before in all of my GT Documents.
    
    
    
    An A-Class License means that you're entitled to participate in an even
    
    more vast array of courses than B-Class License Holders.  You can
    
    participate in any race with the exception of the races that require
    an International A Class License.  What this license means to you is that
    
    you've mastered the more advanced techniques of cornering of hairpins,
    
    blind turns, and weird corridors, something that you should be proud of
    
    because you're capable of using an important skill in the world of Gran
    
    Turismo.  Holding an A-Class License, you should be able to do the
    
    following according to Fukumoto Atsushi:
    
    
    
    -  Knowing when to start cornering from a gruesomely long straight and
    
       from extreme high speeds.
    
    -  Able to corner in weird turns, blind corners, complex curves, and any
    
       difficult corridors at Special Stage Route 11.
    
    -  Being able to avoid spinouts at all costs (Something that is more
    
       important in the A Class than in the B Class).
    
    
    
    And here are the races that you are now able to participate provided
    
    that you have won the A-Class License:
    
    
    *  The GT League:
    
       - Clubman Cup
    
       - GT Cup
    
    *  Special Events:
    
       - Japanese and American Car Championship
    
       - Japanese and British Car Championship
    
       - American and British Car Championship
    
       - Megaspeed Championship
    
       - Commercial Car Championship
    
    
    
    ========================================================================
    
    A-CLASS LICENSE TEST EXAMINATIONS
    
    
    
    Note:  In order to start taking these tests, you must pass all eight
    
    B-Class License Tests first.
    
    Index of tests:
    
    
    
    A-1: Practical Cornering Part 1
    
    A-2: Practical Cornering Part 2
    
    A-3: Practical Cornering Part 3
    
    A-4: Advanced Cornering Part 1
    
    A-5: Advanced Cornering Part 2
    
    A-6: Advanced Cornering Part 3
    
    A-7: Powersliding
    
    A-8: Coping with Hairpins at High Speeds (Final Exam)
    
    
    
    Note:  In order to take A-8, you must pass the first seven tests first.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    A-1: Practical Cornering Part 1
    
    Test Car: Toyota Supra RZ
    
    Time Limit: 34"000
    
    Prerequsite: None
    
    Parts of the Test's Areas:  The final stretch, to the Starting Line,
    
    into the first hairpin of Deep Forest.
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    
    
    Accelerate, stay low on the final turn at Deep Forest, cut the apex of
    
    the first turn, and cross the finish line.  The straightaway is a lot
    
    longer this time around.  Although it sounds easy, your main concern is
    
    the first hairpin at Deep Forest, where you must keep your speed below
    
    66 mph using out-and-in, slow-in, fast out without going off course, and
    
    since the Supra is on the heavy side (much to the fact that it has an
    
    understeer problem), you need to allow some time to slow down.  Use the
    
    signs to slow down, and definitely brake from the outside of the turn.
    
    
    Start the turn when you are finished braking.  Keep your foot off the
    
    pedal while braking, though.  Try using rapid-tap when taking on the
    
    turn, but otherwise, it's too hard to explain for now, much to the fact
    
    that you're making an entrance to the first turn of Deep Forest at speeds
    
    of up to 135mph.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    A-2: Practical Cornering Part 2
    
    Test Car: Toyota Supra RZ
    
    Time Limit: 27"000
    
    Prerequsite: None
    
    Parts of the Test's Areas:  The final stretch, to the Starting Line,
    
    into the first hairpin of Autumn Ring.
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    
    
    Accelerate, cut the apex of the final Ess at Autumn Ring, into the
    
    starting line, cut the apex of the first hairpin, and cross the finish
    
    line.  The straightaway is long enough to make your life miserable, but
    
    shouldn't be as dizzy as with the first one but you still have to be
    
    concerned about the Supra's understeer and fat if you want to avoid any
    
    course-outs on Autumn Ring's first hairpin.  I found the hairpin a lot
    
    sharper than Deep Forest's.  Stay at the left side of the track while on
    
    the straightaway, and try to find a nice braking spot so that you can
    
    brake to no more than 50 mph (slower if you are sloppy), cut the apex,
    
    fast-out as the hairpin terminates, and cross the finish line.  Very
    
    frustrating test as there are no hairpin signs to help you slow down
    
    ahead of time.  Rapid-tap as you go inside the hairpin.  Be careful when
    
    taking on this hairpin because the Supra RZ has a tendency to understeer.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    A-3: Practical Cornering Part 3
    
    Test Car: Mazda RX-7
    
    Time Limit: 44"000
    
    Prerequsite: None
    
    Parts of the Test's Areas:  Right after the worry-aboutie Chicanes, into
    
    the final stretch, through the finish line, onto the bent and the first
    
    hairpin and just before the gentle Ess at Grand Valley Speedway.
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    
    
    Accelerate, stay low on the final two turns of Grand Valley Speedway,
    
    into the starting line, and onto the gentle left bent and cut the apex
    
    of the first hairpin onto the finishing line.  I really hate this test
    
    because you are taking on a right hairpin turn supported by a left bent.
    
    
    This is SARCASTICALLY DIZZY because a straight gives you more time to
    
    prepare for the hairpin than a slight bent, but you'll have to worry
    
    about the speed that you're entering the first hairpin since you're
    
    entering this one at 140+ mph.  What I would do is to stay on the right
    
    side of the track, and move towards the left on the gentle bent, and
    
    using out-and-in, I would brake at a straight line to no more than 58
    
    mph (my experimentation's limited here), cut the apex, rapid-tap, and
    
    fast-out of the turn.  Dreadful because the left bent before the hairpin
    
    can throw off your timing pretty easily.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    A-4: Advanced Cornering Part 1
    
    Test Car: Nissan Skyline GTR V Spec
    
    Time Limit: 39"000
    
    Prerequsite: None
    
    Parts of the Test's Areas:  The Tunnel Hairpin, into the kaye right
    
    after the dip, onto the medium right before the tunnel, and finally
    
    into the medium left before the straightaway at Trial Mountain.
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    
    
    The key to passing this test is to take all turns without any blatant
    
    slowing down.  I consider this a tough test because you need to avoid
    
    hitting the walls.  To pass the test, I would cut the apex of Turn 4 of
    
    Trial Mountain, then I try to use out-and-in, slow-in, fast-out at Turn
    
    5, and take the Medium Right at around 85 mph (rapid-tap if you think
    
    you are going to touch the grass), and cut the apex blatantly (try to
    
    slow down ahead of time) taking the medium left before the straight at
    
    75 mph.  Try to keep a smooth racing line at all costs.  The reasonable
    
    speed of the sharp right is 50 mph.  You may want to try out all turns
    
    at higher speeds if necessary.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    A-5: Advanced Cornering Part 2
    
    Test Car: Honda Prelude
    
    Time Limit: 30"000
    
    Prerequsite: None
    
    Parts of the Test's Areas:  After the second tight hairpin, onto the
    
    Medium Left, onto the Medium Right, and onto the Sharp Left before the
    
    tunnel at Grand Valley Speedway.
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    
    
    I'm glad that you're given a break here because you're on the wheel of
    
    a front-drive car right now.  The ideal speed for the first two turns
    
    is 85 mph.  I found the medium right a little sharper than the Medium
    
    Left.  Be sure that you take advantage of the Prelude's Front Wheel
    
    Drive while taking on the first two turns.  Try to cut the apex of all
    
    turns.  The third turn before the Tunnel is your main concern.  Cut your
    
    speed to around 50 mph, out-and-in, and fast-out as you exit the turn.
    
    
    Be careful not to frontup the Tunnel as this is grounds for immediate
    
    fail.  You must be a careful driver in order to take the final sharp
    
    turn of this test with ease and zest!  Powersliding on the final turn
    
    is OK, but be sure that you don't course-out at all, though.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    A-6: Advanced Cornering Part 3
    
    Test Car: Toyota MR2
    
    Time Limit: 27"000
    
    Prerequsite: None
    
    Parts of the Test's Areas:  Into the Deep Forest's Ess before the Medium
    
    Right before the tunnel, onto another Medium Right right after the first
    
    tunnel, onto the second tunnel and into the finish line at Deep Forest.
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    
    
    Your main concern in this test is the grass on both sides of the track.
    
    
    Touch the grass too long and you'll fail the test.  Hit the beginning
    
    of the Tunnel and you'll fail the test as well.  Ease up on the Forest
    
    Ess, and at the Left before the First Medium Right, brake slightly at
    
    a straight line, and cut the apex.  Brake to under 70 mph for the first
    
    Medium Left, powerslide, and rapid-tap the pedal to maintain your speed.
    
    
    Take the second Medium left with out-and-in, slowin-fastout, and cross
    
    the finish line.  Since the time limit's rather short, you need to keep
    
    a smooth racing line for as much as you can.  You may have to increase
    
    your speed as your skills are getting better.  An important rule while
    
    trying to cut the apex during the Forest Ess:  Don't touch the grass
    
    as this is a sign that you are cutting the corners too blatantly.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    A-7: Powersliding
    
    Test Car: Subaru Impreza
    
    Time Limit: 33"000
    
    Prerequsite: None
    
    Parts of the Test's Areas:  This test takes place at a specialized ring
    
    that tests your skill in powersliding.
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    
    
    No need for a lot of explanations here, since your goal is to simply
    
    powerslide throughout this special sliding area around 5 times.  Be sure
    
    that you average about 6 seconds, and definitely take no more than 8
    
    seconds for the first time around, and 5.5 Seconds for the remainder of
    
    the test.  Spinning-out will result in severe time loss.  You should try
    
    to powerslide all corners at all means.  Failure to turn or blatant apex
    
    cutting will result in a failed test.  Try to stay centered for as much
    
    as you can, and use a lot of rapid-tapping here.  The ideal speed for
    
    each corner would be at around 30 mph.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    A-8: Coping with Hairpins at High Speeds (Final Exam)
    
    Test Car: Toyota Supra RZ
    
    Time Limit: 1'08"000
    
    Prerequsite: Must complete the first 7 A-Class Tests first
    
    Parts of the Test's Areas:  Right after the worry-aboutie Chicane, onto
    
    the final stretch, onto the starting line, into the first hairpin
    
    supported by the gentle left bent, onto the rough Ess Curve, and into
    
    the final hairpin for the finish just before the two Medium Ess Curves
    
    at Grand Valley Speedway.
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    
    
    This is the most difficult among the eight A-Class Examinations because
    
    you're required to make your entrance towards both hairpins of the Grand
    
    Valley Speedway at speeds of up to 145mph!  Also, the Toyota Supra RZ
    
    is on the heavier side, and has a tendency to understeer, so you may have
    
    to apply a little powersliding with rapid-gas tapping in order to
    
    maintain your speed at the tight hairpins if you want to pass.  Here are
    
    some techniques you need to know if you want to pass, and remember, this
    
    is a difficult test so don't get mad if you can't pass the first couple
    
    of times.
    
    
    
    Final stretch of Grand Valley Speedway
    
    --------------------------------------
    
    Stay as low as you can on these two turns, and use the Straightaway to
    
    milk up speed.
    
    The Gentle Left Bent and the Hairpin
    
    ------------------------------------
    
    Stay at the right side of the track as you enter the Left Bent so you
    
    can cut the apex at the Left Bent.  Use the final stretch of the Left
    
    Bent to prepare for the hairpin.  The ideal speed for the first hairpin
    
    is under 60 mph and over 55 mph.  Brake as soon as the left bent ends,
    
    and make sure that you keep your foot off the pedal as you brake, and
    
    just before you get to your desired speed, turn gently so that you'll
    
    slide.  Turning too harsh while braking and accelerating will result
    
    in a spin-out, costing precious time.  Rapid-tap during the hairpin
    
    to maintain your speed, and straighten up the car before the Ess.
    
    
    
    The Ess
    
    -------
    
    Take on each of the ess out-and-in.  Be careful of the Left Ess before
    
    the straight and the tighter hairpin because you may find yourself
    
    dizzy thereafter.
    
    
    
    The Final Hairpin
    
    -----------------
    
    This hairpin is tighter than the first one.  Use the Meter marks to
    
    make yourself a good braking spot so that you can take the hairpin at
    
    speeds of no more than 50 mph.  Use out-and-in, fast-out, and cross
    
    the finish line.  Going too fast or accelerating while taking on this
    
    hairpin results in a course-out.
    
    
    
    This test is hectic because you have to cope with the Supra's fat and
    
    understeer.
    
    
    
    ========================================================================
    CLUBMAN CUP
    
    
    Number of Tracks: 3
    
    Laps per Track: 2
    
    Required Class License: A-Class
    
    Restriction of Car Type: None
    
    Tracks involved: Autumn Ring, Clubman Stage Route 5, Trial Mountain
    
    Pole Position Bonus: 2500 Credits
    
    Finish First in the Track Bonus: 7000 Credits
    
    Series Winner Bonus: 20000 Credits
    
    Car you get for winning the race: Chevrolet Camaro Z28 30th Anniversary
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    Vestiroth's note: The Clubman Cup is the next championship that you want
    
    to participate once you have mastered all the B-Class Championship events
    
    provided that you have obtained your A-Class License.  Advanced Skills
    
    are a must here because you're bound to meet up with even more powerful
    
    cars than in the Sunday Cup.  Something to worry about would have to be
    
    the Trial Mountain, which is the track that really tests your racing
    
    prowess here in Gran Turismo as a whole.  I suggest that you have your
    
    car tuned up to the max before going inside this race.  Here's what my
    
    recommended procedures would be if you are to participate in this second
    
    level Gran Turismo League Circuit:
    
    
    
    1.  Buy a new Mitsubishi Eclipse.  This is for beginners, but since
    
        there's no car restrictions, if you already have a Skyline with
    
        at least half-the-power of a fully-tuned Skyline GTS-R, then you
    
        won't need the Mitsubishi Eclipse.  Always use the best possible
    
        car, and feel free to use any car you want here, albeit the car
    
        restrictions in certain races.
    
    
    
    2.  With the Mitsubishi Eclipse, gain your potential by racing in the
    
        Sunday Cup and on the Front Wheel Drive Special Event.
    
    
    
    3.  When you have just about enough dough, it's time to go to the Ralli
    
        Art at Mitsubishi!
    
    
    
    4.  Here's what I want you do from this point on (Remember if you can't
    
        afford for these parts earlier on, you can always come back later).
    
        Keep in mind that these are only my recommendations so you should
    
        experience with different parts throughout your gameplay.  I'm
    
        thankful to Sam Davis (sdavis1@mail.wsu.edu) because I'm writing
    
        this FAQ without my Gran Turismo Reference Guide!  Please read his
    
        Menu Translation Guide at GameFAQs.com:
    
    
    
    *  Buy the Sports Muffler
    
    *  Buy the Sports Brake Kit and Brake Balance Controller
    
    *  Buy any Turbo Kit (I do recommend Turbo Kit Level 3 but any Turbo
    
       Kit is a must!)
    
    *  Buy the Racing Intercooler kit
    
    *  Buy the Racing Support Suspension Kit
    
    *  Buy Hard Stabilizer Kits on both sides of the car
    
    *  Buy Computer Engine Tune-up, Port Polishing, and Engine Balancing
    
    *  Buy Soft Racing Support Tires
    
    *  Buy Racing Support Gearbox, Triple Clutch, Racing Flywheel, and a
    
       Carbon Driveshaft (if applicable)
    
    *  Undergo all stages of Weight Reduction
    
    *  Transform your Mitsubishi Eclipse into a Racing Eclipse!
    
    
    
    Remember you can read Sam Davis's Gran Turismo Menu Translation Guide
    
    if you need a better description of these at http://www.gamefaqs.com.
    
    
    
    5.  At the time I first wrote this FAQ, I suggest a fully-powered,
    
        fully-tuned Eclipse.  However, feel free to experiment with any
    
        car you want, but be sure your car is powerful enough or you won't
    
        stand a chance.  Remember this isn't Gran Turismo 2, so you can be
    
        as unfair as you want with the exception of certain restriction of
    
        cars that may come aloft later in the game.  This is the beginner's
    
        approach, though.
    
    
    
    6.  This portion of this work will assume that you're driving a fully
    
        powered Mitsubishi Eclipse, extremely tuned or Racing-compliant.
     
        Please change your strategies depending on the car that you're in.
    
    
    
    7.  When you're in a Rear-Wheel Drive Car, try not to overspin the rear
    
        tires as this tends to be grounds to spin-out habitually.  Always
    
        ease up on turns when you're in a rear-wheel drive car.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    AUTUMN RING
    
    
    
    Turn 1
    
    ------
    
    This is a terrible hairpin.  I would try not to slide here since I would
    
    risk going inside the grass (something that you don't want to do anyway)
    
    so it's important that you cut down your speed ahead of time, but beware
    
    that the straightaway is gruesomely long so you may have to cut your
    
    speed as soon as you see the hairpin signs.  I would say about no more
    
    than 47 mph would be a safe speed.  Higher speeds are possible here, but
    
    my experimentation is limited.
    
    
    
    Turn 2
    
    ------
    
    Take this turn from the out-and-in.  Sliding a bit would be acceptable
    
    as long as you don't go too fast.  Please be aware that you do have to
    
    deal with these two damn chicanes afterwards, so I wouldn't try to go
    
    bonkers on acceleration.
    
    
    
    Turns 3-6
    
    ---------
    
    This is an excellent area to really mess up so make sure that you try
    
    not to touch the grass as it will cut your speed significantly and
    
    you may even lose control of the car.  You may wish to use out-and-in
    
    but try not to go too fast since these chicanes are rather sharp.  On
    
    the sixth turn, you should try to prepare for the seventh turn, so
    
    don't go bonkers on accelerating.  Try to keep a straight racing line
    
    here for the best results.
    
    
    
    Turn 7
    
    ------
    
    Sliding is acceptable here as long as you don't go too fast and as
    
    long as you are starting the turn from the outside.  Right after this
    
    turn, have the car straightened, and please behold of the eighth turn
    
    since it's a hairpin, and you've arrived in a really gruesome straight.
    
    
    
    Turn 8
    
    ------
    
    Make sure that you slow down ahead of time or you'll be going on the
    
    grass and possibly suffer a wall hit.  Since this hairpin is really
    
    tight, don't go any faster than 40 mph.  If you have raced in the
    
    Autumnring-Mini many times, then this should be familiar.
    
    
    
    Turn 9
    
    ------
    
    Take this turn from the out-and-in.  Although this hairpin isn't as
    
    severe as turns 1 or 8, you need to be watching your speed at all
    
    costs because if you go too fast, then you'll be landing right at the
    
    grass.  I would say that about 55 mph would be a safe speed, though
    
    I can't stress the target speed too much.
    
    
    
    Turn 10
    
    -------
    
    If you are a careful driver, then you can overtake this turn at full
    
    speed, but you may or may not need to cut your speed depending on how
    
    early you take this turn.
    
    
    
    Turn 11
    
    -------
    
    Here's a turn worth worrying about.  When you see the Mazda Speed sign
    
    hit the top of the screen, cut your speed to ~50 mph and try to keep a
    
    smooth racing line for speed.  Try not to burn the tires because this
    
    is a place where your cornering prowess shows.
    
    
    
    Turn 12-14
    
    ----------
    
    Beware!  These chicanes are even sharper than the chicanes carried over
    
    from the Autumn Ring Mini Course!  For control, I would slow down ahead
    
    of time and take the left turn smoothly, and treat turns 13 and 14 as
    
    one single turn.  I would try to drift on turn 13 and 14, but this is
    
    just an observation because you may need to adjust your technique
    
    depending on how hot you want to take this turn.
    
    
    
    Turn 15
    
    -------
    
    Yep, another sharp.  I would drift from the outside and go into the
    
    inside and by the time I finish drifting, I should have the car
    
    straightened.  When taking on this sharp, avoid contact with the grass
    
    at the left.
    
    Turns 16&17
    
    -----------
    
    This ess can be taken at full speed provided that you're a careful
    
    driver.  Please adjust your skill in this section of this FAQ if you
    
    are just new to Autumn Ring.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    CLUBMAN STAGE ROUTE 5
    
    
    
    Turn 1
    
    ------
    
    I would slow down just a *bit* so I can prepare to take on Turn 2
    
    without any braking, but you can take this turn in full speed provided
    
    that your speed isn't exceeding the safe speed at Turn 2.
    
    
    
    Turn 2
    
    ------
    
    I would say that ~90 mph would be a safe speed here.  You can try higher
    
    speeds depending on the car that you are in and depending on your driving
    
    prowess.  You should try to do *controlled* braking here so you don't go
    
    over 100 mph which seems to be unsafe for normal and modified cars.
    
    
    
    Turn 3
    
    ------
    
    Drift from the outside and into the inside.  You should be at the right
    
    side of the track in preparation for Turn 4, which is pretty dangerous.
    
    Don't go bonkers accelerating here because you have Turn 4 to worry about
    
    immediately after this turn.
    
    
    
    Turn 4
    
    ------
    
    You should try to cut your speed to ~60 mph here.  Slow down ahead of
    
    time and take this turn from the out-and-in.  Don't slow down too late
    
    or you may be slamming into the wall really hard.
    
    
    
    Turn 5
    
    ------
    
    Providing that you have taken Turn 4 smoothly, this turn can be taken
    
    with some acceleration.  If you taken Turn 4 horribly, then I don't
    
    have a friggin' clue on how you'll be able to take this turn.
    
    
    
    Turns 6&7
    
    ---------
    
    This ess can be taken at full speed providing that you are turning
    
    ahead of time and providing that you are taking the turn from the
    
    out-and-in.  Please try to keep a smooth racing line here because
    this turns out to be one of the areas where beginners lose control.
    
    
    
    Turn 8
    
    ------
    
    Slow down ahead of time and start the turn from the right.  Begin
    
    drifting when appropriate.  Try not to go bonkers sliding because
    
    you'll slam into the wall.  Don't accelerate because you have Turn
    
    9 to deal with next.
    
    
    
    Turn 9
    
    ------
    
    This turn is sharper than Turn 8.  As with Turn 8, take this turn
    
    out-and-in and by drifting.  You need to go slower than in Turn 9
    
    (but not too slow that the drones are harassing you) in order to set
    up
    for the acceleration at the straightaway.  When you overtake Turn 1
    
    on the next lap, you need to slow down at Turn 1 so you can keep a
    
    smooth racing line at Turn 2.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    TRIAL MOUNTAIN
    
    
    
    I hope you hate Trial Mountain, but really, I personally hate Trial
    
    Mountain.
    
    
    
    Turn 1&2
    
    --------
    
    This ess can be taken in full speed.  However, I wouldn't recommend
    
    going faster than ~120 because the left turn is filled with a slant that
    
    leaves a lot to be desired.
    
    
    
    Turns 3&4
    
    ---------
    
    Providing that you turn ahead of time, these turns can be taken at full
    
    speed.  Don't grow too overconfident because you have Turn 5 to chew at
    
    immediately in the middle of Turn 4.
    
    
    
    Turn 5
    
    ------
    
    For control, I would try to slow down as early as appropriate so I don't
    
    touch the grass after this turn.  This is a devious hairpin and you
    
    shouldn't take out this hairpin too hot.  Afterwards, you will be taking
    
    a dip as you straighten up the car.
    
    
    
    A note from Vestiroth:  Even though I touched the grass after the turn,
    
    I've managed to get my car back into gear in preparation of Turn 6.
    
    
    
    Turn 6
    
    ------
    
    Slow down to ~50 mph so you can take on this sharp right without having
    
    to touch the grass at your left.  Cut your speed preferrably after the
    
    dip (but you have to allow more time depending on what car you drive)
    
    and take this turn from the out and in.
    
    
    
    Turns 7&8
    
    ---------
    
    Keep a smooth driving line because you'll be carrying more control at
    
    Turn 9.  If you slip out of control, then I don't have an idea on how
    
    you will be taking Turn 9.
    
    Turn 9
    
    ------
    
    I wouldn't take this turn any faster than ~80 mph.  I would take this
    
    turn with some slight skidding.  I should have the car straightened up
    
    by the time I undertake Turn 10.  Don't slow down too much here as
    
    this turn isn't sharp as you think it's supposed to be.
    
    
    
    Turn 10
    
    -------
    
    Slow down to ~80 mph just before you exit the tunnel, skid throughout
    
    nearly all of the turn.  By the time you reach the straightaway, you
    
    should have the car straightened up.  On Turn 11, you'll have to slow
    
    down ahead of time since this straightaway is gruesomely long.
    
    
    
    Turn 11
    
    -------
    
    By the time you see some sections of this turn, slow down to ~70 mph,
    
    and try to cut the apex but don't scrape the wall.  Sliding's OK as
    
    long as you don't go too fast.
    
    
    
    Turns 12&13
    
    -----------
    
    Keep a smooth driving line because you'll need the control you need
    
    by the time you reach Turn 14, which is a deadly hairpin.  Remember,
    
    the more control you carry towards Turn 14, the better you will
    
    corner.
    
    
    
    Turn 14
    
    -------
    
    You need to be going no faster than 70 mph to avoid a possible wall
    
    hit at the left.  At the right of you is grass, which you should try
    
    to avoid.  You should try to slow down as soon as you finish Turn 13
    
    so you won't have to worry a lot about the wall or the grass.  Don't
    
    start the turn too early or you'll lawnmown to the max.
    
    
    
    Turn 15
    
    -------
    
    This is a great way to slow down ahead of time.  Cut your speed to
    
    ~60 mph and start the turn from the out and take the turn from the
    
    inside.  You should have the car straightened up and you should be
    
    back on the right by the time you are at the final stretch.
    
    
    
    Turns 16&17
    
    -----------
    
    This Ess is much harder than the first Ess.  You should try not to go
    
    any faster than 110 mph.  Slow down as you are getting closer to the
    
    Ess, and try to turn ahead of time so that you don't touch the grass
    
    on either side of the track.  If you took the turns too early, then
    
    you may be taking an unneccessary dip that may throw you out of
    control.
    
    
    
    ========================================================================
    
    GT CUP
    
    
    Number of Tracks: 4
    
    Laps per Track: 3
    
    Required Class License: A-Class
    
    Restriction of Car Type: No restriction on the car you want to use in
    
    this championship.
    
    Tracks involved: Grand Valley Speedway, Special Stage Route 5, Deep
    
    Forest, Trial Mountain (WHY?!)
    
    Pole Position Bonus: 5000 Credits
    
    Finish First in the Track Bonus: 10000 Credits
    
    Series Winner Bonus: 25000 Credits
    
    Car you get for winning the race: A Toyota Chaser Limited Edition is
    
    what you get for winning the series.  Sell this lemon back to Toyota
    
    because this is a car that you don't want.
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    Vestiroth's note: The GT Cup is the first track to feature insanely
    
    tuned cars which can pose a threat to your domination potential if you
    
    don't have the correct car with you.  Entering this track, I'm assuming
    
    that you *can* afford a Toyota Castrol Supra GT or a Subaru Impreza
    
    Rally Edition.  I highly recommend the Subaru Impreza Rally Edition.  On
    
    the other hand, the Subaru Impreza Rally Edition isn't good because of
    
    its poor top speed (160 mph).  If you do have one, the I would either
    
    throw the Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo, a Mitsubishi GTO MR, or any car
    
    that has enough power to maintain your domination in the game, but stable
    
    enough to keep a smooth racing line.  Why not use this series to build
    
    up your skill in preparation of the Japanese-American Sports Car series?
    
    The Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition remains one of my favorites in this
    
    franchise, and I really don't know why the FTO LM was placed as a hidden
    
    car in Gran Turismo 2.  Here are the recommendations:
    
    
    
    1.  Develop your well-being even further in Gran Turismo in the Sunday
    
        or Clubman Cup (I recommend the Clubman Cup because I'm assuming
    
        that you *do* have the A-Class License).  Gain all the skills you
    
        want so you can take them to test in the Gran Turismo Cup.
    
    
    
    2.  I'm hoping that you have severe amount of dough in your pocket
    
        because I'm gonna lead you to the most expensive models in the
    
        game.  Also, I'm gonna push you to severely tune up any car that
    
        was purchased as a normal car.  Ready?
    
    
    
    3.  Once you get 500,000 credits, I'm hoping that you'll shop around
    
        for either a Toyota Castrol Supra GT, a Mitsubishi GTO Limited
    
        Edition, a Nissan Nismo GT-R Limited Edition, a Mazda RX-7
    
        Limited Edition, a Subaru Impreza Limited Edition (the only low
    
        point I have of this car is its rather mediocre top speed), or
        an Acura NSX-R Limited Edition GT2.  If not, then look around
    
        for a Nissan Skyline GT-R V-Spec or a Mitsubishi GTO MR_Twin
    
        Turbo.  Heavily tune them up so you can hit over 800 horses!
    
        Now make them race-proud so you can get a loving disadvantage
    
        against the competition!  You're going to do some heavy dough
    
        spending while trying to tune up your Nissan Skyline GT-R VSpec
    
        and/or your Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo/MR, so have credits ready
    
        to burn.
    
    
    
    4.  With these cars, get used to them by racing several times at the
    
        Clubman Cup.  Once you get used to them, it's time to blow their
    
        poor arses away at the GT Cup.
    
    
    
    Another Note from Vestiroth:  The reason why I want you to have the
    
    best possible cars is because I want you to have an unfair advantage
    
    against the competition.  Unfair is best.  You'll notice that. :)
    
    
    
    5.  This portion of the FAQ assumes that you're using the rather
    
        mediocre Subaru Impreza Rally Edition.  Although the top speed
    
        leaves a lot to be desired, it's still a formidable car to have.
    
    
    
    6.  You need to adjust your skills just a bit from this FAQ depending
    
        on the car that you are riding on.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    GRAND VALLEY SPEEDWAY
    
    
    
    Grand Valley Speedway is 15 times harder than Grand Valley East because
    
    there's plenty sharp turns and two hairpins that compel you to slow down
    
    as early as you can because you're bound to enter these hairpins at high
    
    speeds.  Now, as a Subaru Impreza Rally Edition driver, beginners need
    
    some assistance in order to complete this track without heavy damage.
    
    
    
    Turn 1
    
    ------
    
    Being dizzy right after starting will make you uncomfortable on the
    
    second turn, which is a hairpin.  You'll want to cut your speed as soon
    
    as you finish up taking on the gentle left so that you'll have your
    
    speed *reasonably* reduced by the time you take on the first hairpin
    
    turn in the track.
    
    
    
    Turn 2
    
    ------
    If you were able to cut your speed (I recommend releasing the gas pedal
    
    and by the time you hit the *slight* straight brake to ~60 mph and do
    
    some sliding) as you were taking on the first turn in preparation of
    
    this hairpin, then great.  If not, then be prepared to either touch
    
    the dirt or deal with a spinout!  It's important that you cut your
    
    speed (if you're going over 120 mph at the start of Turn 1) as early
    
    as Turn 1, and start reacting by the time you reach Turn 2 so you can
    
    allow some room for error by the time you reach the next straight, a
    
    gateway to a rather gruesome S-curve coming up.
    
    
    
    Turns 3-5
    
    ---------
    
    Although this Ess can be taken at full speed, be aware that you'll
    
    need to probably be sliding on Turn 5 in order to avoid any unwanted
    
    dipping and contact with the racing slant at the left or right side
    
    of the track.  If you did not turn ahead of time at Turn 5, then
    
    you're bound to touch some grass, and eventually wind up spinning out
    
    of control.  You'll need to be in good shape when you take on a really
    
    nasty hairpin, in the name of Turn 6.
    
    
    
    Turn 6
    
    ------
    
    Ancient words of wisdom:  Slow down ahead of time for control.  By the
    
    start of the hairpin, your speed shouldn't be exceeding 42 mph.  Take
    
    the hairpin from the outside and slowly move to the inside, but don't
    
    touch the slant as you'll take an unwanted dip right there.  Don't let
    
    the next straight fool you as you'll have to take on a rather *sharp*
    
    left.
    
    
    
    Turn 7
    
    ------
    
    I would slide this lamer and start sliding from the outside of the
    
    turn and work my way to the inside, making sure that my wheels are
    
    *next* to the slant, but not touching it.  I should be staying near
    
    the leftmost side of the track when I finish this turn because Turn
    
    8 is coming up.
    
    
    
    Turn 8
    
    ------
    
    As with Turn 7, I would slide and take this turn from the outside and
    
    work my way to the inside, making sure that my wheels are near the
    
    slant (but not touching it), and continue to stay near the rightmost
    
    side of the track because Turn 9 is coming up, and believe me, Turn 9
    
    is a sharp left (a carryover from the Sunday Cup and all other B-Class
    
    Races).  Turn 8 is indeed a lot deadlier than Turn 7 so you may have
    
    to go slower on this turn as opposed to Turn 7.
    
    
    
    Turn 9
    
    ------
    
    Deadly Sharp Left.  Before you enter this turn, make sure that you're
    
    not going any faster than ~50 mph.  Start the turn from the outside,
    
    work your way inside.  If you performed this turn correctly, then you
    
    should *barely* miss the wall.  If you took this turn lousy, then be
    
    prepared to hit the wall or spin out.  Try not to slide here because
    
    that's where beginners tend to overspeed and overslide, causing major
    
    spinouts and problems that may show your vulnerability towards your
    
    opponents.
    
    
    
    Turn 10
    
    -------
    
    As deadly as this painfully sharp left may seem, it seems to be a *bad*
    
    hairpin in disguise (but shouldn't be that bad).  Try to slow down as
    
    early as you can so you don't have to overslide and spin out on this
    
    turn.  I would say that ~60 mph would be safe (safe enough to avoid the
    
    grass at the right), though my experimentation's been limited.  If you
    
    are going too fast or skidding too sloppy, then a nice Tunnel Wall is
    
    waiting for you at the start of Turn 11.
    
    
    
    Turn 11
    
    -------
    
    If you have taken Turn 10 neatly, great.  At Turn 11, don't go any
    
    slower than 90 mph.  I would slide throughout the turn and possibly
    
    use a *little* rapid gas tapping so that I don't accelerate until
    
    after the turn finishes and the straightaway begins.  Use the straight
    
    before Turn 12 efficiently because at Turn 12, you'll have to cut your
    
    speed *just a little* before the straight terminates.
    
    
    
    Turn 12
    
    -------
    
    Is your speed cut to ~110 by the time the turn started?  Well, do some
    
    *controlled* rapid gas tapping as the turn keeps "going and going" and
    
    refrain from accelerating until the turn ends.  Failure to do this will
    
    result in rail contact at the left, which may damage your tires.
    
    
    
    Turns 13 and 14
    
    ---------------
    
    No matter what kind of Gran Turismo Player you consider yourself, this
    
    is something to worry about in Grand Valley Speedway.  Cut your speed
    
    to ~74 mph *as* you enter the first turn.  Drift throughout the first
    
    turn using out-and-in.  You should not be going over ~60 mph on average
    
    during the first turn, although I'm saying ~74 mph (you lose speed as
    
    you slide).  On Turn 14, cut your speed to around ~50 mph, take the turn
    
    from the out-and-in, and refrain from accelerating until after you
    
    complete this turn.  You should be at around ~40 mph by the time your
    
    at the final stretch (You tend to lose lots of speed here, so don't go
    
    too fast as these turns are hairpins in nature).
    
    
    
    Turn 15
    
    -------
    
    The key here is to take this turn without any unneccessary slowing down
    
    or having to touch the grass on either side.  I would say that ~130 mph
    
    with some sliding (assuming that you started turning as the turn starts)
    would be safe enough to avoid the slant and grass at the left.  On the
    
    second and third lap, you'll need to be careful when taking on Turns 1
    
    and 2 because you may be at about 175 mph (on Class A Cars) by the time
    
    you enter this area once again.  Don't act like a drunk driver in this
    
    track because the competition's much more powerful than in the Sunday
    
    and Clubman Cup.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    DEEP FOREST
    
    
    
    I think Deep Forest is horrible for the following reason:  GRASS AND
    
    EVEN MORE GRASS EVERYWHERE!!!!!!!!  It's important that you don't wind
    
    up going in the grass as you will lose speed while taking a turn, so
    
    make sure that you do your very best to avoid the grass at all costs.
    
    
    
    Turn 1
    
    ------
    
    Starting races with tight hairpins isn't my kind of fun.  Cut your speed
    
    during the two hairpin signs and if you don't want to skid, don't go any
    
    faster than 60 mph, but if you want to skid, then you may want to say
    
    about 70 mph, although my experimentation is rather limited.
    
    
    
    Turns 2&3
    
    ---------
    
    Keep you car under control, and definitely stay off the grass at the
    
    left and right side of the screen because that's when your worries
    
    begin.  Turn 3 is more sarcastic than Turn 2, so you may have to slow
    
    down at either Turn 2 or 3 to keep your car under control.  However,
    
    you will have to worry about Turn 4 because Turn 4 is a rather *sharp*
    
    left that you have to chew on, and you got a killer tunnel coming up
    
    just before Turn 5.
    
    
    
    Turn 4
    
    ------
    
    Cut your speed *immediately* after you exit Turn 3, but don't slant
    
    the wheels to the left because you'll hit the wall and touch the grass
    
    so make sure that you're slanting the front wheels to the right as you
    
    prepare for this turn.  You need to be going no faster than 65 mph and
    
    you should try to drift as much as you can in order to avoid any grass
    
    contact and possibly a hit right at the tunnel entrance wall, which
    
    causes serious delays.
    
    
    
    Turn 5
    
    ------
    
    You should be ready to drift from this corner as soon as you are about
    
    to exit the tunnel.  Cut your speed *as you leave the tunnel* and drift
    
    on this turn.  I would say that 72 mph would be reasonable but you can
    
    take this turn at higher speeds, although I don't recommend taking this
    
    turn too hot.
    
    
    
    Turn 6 & 7
    
    ----------
    
    You will have yet another sharp to deal with so don't go overconfident
    
    with the easy right.  Try to slow down as early as just before the
    
    easy right so you'll have control by the time you hit the sharp left.
    
    You shouldn't be going any faster than roughly 50 mph by the time you
    
    hit Turn 7.  Be careful that you don't go inside the grass.  By the
    
    time you enter the interlude before Turn 8, you should have the car
    
    straightened up.
    
    
    
    Turn 8
    
    ------
    
    Although this turn can be taken at full speed, I strongly recommend
    
    that you take this turn with some *controlled* braking and steering,
    
    just a precaution that you don't hit the wall at the right.  If you
    
    done the drifting and braking right, then you should be able to avoid
    
    the wall at the right.
    
    
    
    Turns 9-11
    
    ----------
    
    This part of the track is as close as a straightaway you'll find in
    
    this track, so use this part of the track wisely.  Make sure that you
    
    are turning *slightly* during the easy turns, making sure that you are
    
    not hitting the walls.  Turn 11 is where you should be doing the worry
    
    abouties because you're going to face a fierce left right after the
    
    easy right, so be sure that you're slowing down as you are about to
    
    finish the easy right but not too early that you're losing control of
    
    the car.
    
    
    
    Turn 12
    
    -------
    
    If you have done a *controlled* slowing down as early as the conclusion
    
    of Turn 11, then you should begin to do even more braking.  You should
    
    be drifting a little as you undertake this turn.  I would say that 80
    
    mph would be a good speed, but you need to be drifting so you can avoid
    
    the grass at the right.  Please don't accelerate until you finish taking
    
    on this turn.  If you slow down too late, then you're bound to hit walls
    
    and mow some grass!
    
    
    
    Turn 13
    
    -------
    
    Take this turn at full speed, trying to avoid the grass.  By the time
    
    you finish this turn, you don't have to worry about the grass at the
    
    left and right side of the track anymore.  JOY!
    
    
    
    Turn 14
    
    -------
    
    Cut your speed to ~120 mph and I would take this turn by out-and-in, and
    
    with heavy skidding.  When you get inside of the straightaway, you need
    
    to have the car straightened.  Gotta be careful when drifting because
    
    poor timing of taking this final turn will result in either unnecessary
    
    dipping or grass contact, which ruins your performance greatly.  I'm
    
    trying to make sure that you're staying competitive here.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 5
    
    
    
    Turn 1
    
    ------
    
    Although you can take this turn in full speed, you need to start your
    
    slowing down as early as this turn so you can take Turn 2 without having
    
    to hit the wall, which wears out your tires.  It's important that you
    
    slow down as early as Turn 1 so you will not be hitting the tunnel wall
    
    or slanting the car at an unnecessary position during Turn 2.
    
    
    
    Turn 2
    
    ------
    
    Since I'm riding on the Subaru Impreza Rally Edition, I would say that
    
    115 mph would be a safe speed.  Rapid tap the gas pedal so you don't
    
    wind up scrapping the right wall.  You might have to apply some braking
    
    if appropriate.
    
    
    
    Turn 3
    
    ------
    
    Take the turn from the out-and-in.  Controlled braking should keep your
    
    car under control and prepared for Turn 4.  As long as you skid, you
    
    should not be hitting the wall.  If you are inside by the time Turn 3
    
    starts, then I don't have an idea on how you will be able to cope with
    
    the turn.
    
    
    
    Turn 4
    
    ------
    
    Slow ahead of time by braking hard as the turn begins, skid as much
    
    as you can, but don't skid too much here because Turn 5 is coming up,
    
    and you want to take this turn as smooth as you can.  I would say the
    
    ideal speed here would be ~70 mph with some skidding, but that would
    
    throw you at the inside by the time you reach Turn 5, so you have to
    
    adjust your tactic on this crappy turn depending on your own personal
    
    experience.
    
    
    
    Turn 5
    
    ------
    
    Providing that you have taken Turn 4 smoothly, this turn can be taken
    
    with some acceleration.  If you taken Turn 4 horribly, then I don't
    
    have a friggin' clue on how you'll be able to take this turn.
    
    
    
    Turns 6&7
    
    ---------
    
    This ess can be taken at full speed providing that you are turning
    
    ahead of time and providing that you are taking the turn from the
    
    out-and-in.  Please try to keep a smooth racing line here because
    
    this turns out to be one of the areas where beginners lose control.
    
    You need to be careful not to hit the railing by the time you complete
    
    Turn 7 because if you do, then you'll be sorry.
    
    
    
    Turns 8&9
    
    ---------
    
    The following two turns can be taken with some controlled skidding.
    
    You should try to brake hard ahead of time at Turn 8 so that you don't
    
    hit the left wall.  Make sure that your car is in good shape so that
    
    you can skid Turn 9 without any problems.  Taking the turns out-and-in
    
    style is OK as long as you don't start the turn too early, which may
    
    cause a spin-out.
    
    
    
    Turn 10
    
    -------
    
    Killer Hairpin.  Brake *HARD* so you can take this hairpin without
    
    hitting the wall.  Don't undertake this hairpin too early or that
    
    mistake would mean your last.  Don't skid as you may risk hitting the
    
    wall at the right.  I would say that 40 mph without skidding would be
    
    safe.  Don't use full acceleration until after you pass the hairpin.
    
    
    
    Turn 11
    
    -------
    
    You may wish to accelerate in this turn, but IMHO you need to be
    
    skidding here so you don't have to hit the wall at the left side of
    
    the track, so be prepared to drift as you accelerate back to your
    
    usual speed.  By the time you are about to reach Turn 12, you should
    
    have the car straightened so you can drift once again without any
    trouble.
    
    
    
    Turn 12
    
    -------
    
    Take this turn from the out-and-in, and drift with zest so you don't
    
    hit the wall at the left or lose any much needed control.  It's
    
    important that you have the car straightened up by the time you meet
    
    up with the worst area in the track--THE FINAL STRETCH!!!!
    
    
    
    Turns 13-15
    
    -----------
    
    Worst part of the track.  You need to slow down as early as the
    
    painted crosswalk so you can set up for Turn 15, which is a rather
    
    nasty right.  Try not to go any faster than 60 mph on the first two
    
    turns, and when you are about to take Turn 15, you need to be drifting
    
    with zest and not accelerating until you have the car straightened up
    
    but I find this part to be pretty nasty because your timing may be poor
    
    by the time you enter this area.  This part really demands good timing
    
    and practice in order to avoid hitting the walls during the triangle.
    
    
    
    Turn 16
    
    -------
    
    Pretty long Medium Right.  You may need to do some skidding, or you
    
    may not go any faster than 85 mph because this seems to be sharper than
    
    I thought.  You can skid, as long as you don't go too fast.  Don't try
    
    to accelerate until after the turn and after you have the car back to
    
    stance.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    TRIAL MOUNTAIN
    
    
    
    You should be familiar with this course because you're actually doing a
    
    skill transfer from the Clubman Cup to the GT Cup.  The tactics you saw
    
    on the Clubman Cup portion of this FAQ was for the Mitsubishi Eclipse.
    
    Now you'll have to perform an extra lap, and now I'm using the Subaru
    
    Impreza Rally Edition on this course!  Entering this course, you should
    
    be able to handle the rough turns in this course efficiently.  Learn
    
    how Trial Mountain's supposed to be done at the Clubman Cup.
    
    
    
    Turn 1&2
    
    --------
    
    Take the left turn from the out and in, making sure that you're turning
    
    ahead of time.  Please be aware that you may bounce when you try to cut
    
    the apex on the first part of the ess so be prepared to keep a firm
    
    grip of the steering wheel.  The second part of the ess can be taken at
    
    full speed provided that you've been under control of your car at the
    
    first part of the ess.  For control, I wouldn't go any faster than ~120
    
    mph with some *controlled* steering applied here.
    
    
    
    Turns 3&4
    
    ---------
    
    You should be able to take Turn 3 at full speed.  However, when you
    
    undertake Turn 4, you should try to prepare to take Turn 5 so you don't
    
    end up hitting the wall or grass after the tunnel.  Try to cut your
    
    speed as soon as you get a fair view of the tunnel so you don't skid
    
    too hard.
    
    
    
    Turn 5
    
    ------
    
    You shouldn't be going any faster than ~60 mph-~70 mph while inside the
    
    tunnel.  Be sure that you do not accelerate until after the turn.  Now
    
    I will have to warn you that *you will be taking a dip* right after
    
    this turn so you will need to keep a firm grip of your car providing
    
    that you finish undertaking this turn.
    
    
    
    Turn 6
    
    ------
    
    Don't ever, ever, ever go any faster than ~50 mph because if you do,
    
    then you could either hit the wall or mown the grass (something that
    
    you don't want to do).  Slow down as you are taking a slight dip, then
    
    begin drifting as soon as you get to your desired speed.  Try to take
    
    the turn from the out-and-in so you will have a great deal of speed to
    
    chew in by the time you exit this turn.  If you get inside the grass,
    
    make sure that you get out of this grass as soon as you can.  Please
    
    don't accelerate until after the turn.
    
    
    
    Turns 7&8
    
    ---------
    
    You can take these turns at full speed, but make sure that you're
    
    alert of Turn 9, which comes up shortly after this gentle ess.  Cut
    
    your speed as soon as you exit out of Turn 8.
    
    
    
    Turn 9
    
    ------
    
    Cut your speed to ~90 mph ahead of time and as the turn starts, you
    
    should try to skid as much as you can during this turn (although you
    
    shouldn't do this because you're melting the tires).  Once you're in
    
    the tunnel, you should try to prepare to undertake Turn 10 so that
    
    you're not so wrapped up in your success of undertaking this turn.
    
    
    
    Vestiroth:  On Trial Mountain, you should not be overconfident after
    
    you undertake any turn successfully because there's bound to be turns
    
    following the next, which makes this course a test of racing prowess.
    
    
    
    Turn 10
    
    -------
    
    Brake to no less than 80 mph and start skidding inside to the next
    
    tunnel.  Although this turn isn't difficult, you need to be sliding
    
    and your speed must not be exceeding 85 mph by all means.  Please
    
    make sure that your taking this turn as early as possible so you'll
    
    have some speed to chew from at the long straightaway.
    
    
    
    Vestiroth:  Trust me.  You'll hate the Impreza Rally Edition for its
    
    160 mph barrier after driving this lamer on the straight before Turn
    11.
    
    
    
    Turn 11
    
    -------
    
    The best time to cut your speed is when you see some sections of this
    
    rather sharp turn.  When the turn's about to start, you should be at
    
    no more than 90 mph, skidding throughout most of the turn, and never
    
    accelerating until after the turn.  If you can go inside the yellow
    
    OSHA lane, then it's a good thing because you're attempting to keep
    
    a smooth racing line, something that's important in Gran Turismo.
    
    
    
    Turns 12&13
    
    -----------
    
    Since you're inside a four-wheel driver, you should have no problem
    
    keeping a smooth racing line in preparation of Turn 14.  Turn 13
    
    seems to be more dangerous than Turn 12 because the turn's sharper
    
    than in Turn 12, but the turn shouldn't be too bad providing that
    
    you're alert of the turn at all times.
    
    
    
    Turn 14
    
    -------
    
    Ancient words of wisdom:  Don't go any faster than 70 mph.  Cut
    
    your speed as soon as you finish Turn 13 (but don't brake the car
    
    that you're slanting to the left side of the track).  Cut the apex
    
    but don't go inside the grass.  Try to skid as much as you can in
    
    this hairpin.  By the time you get out of this turn, you should have
    
    barely missed the edge of the track, and you should have the car
    
    straightened.  Don't let the straight fool you because you're about
    
    to face yet ANOTHER HAIRPIN in the *blue*.
    
    
    
    Turn 15
    
    -------
    
    You will be carrying a good amount of speed if you try to keep a smooth
    
    line as much as you can in this turn.  Try not to drift because not
    
    only you will burn and melt the tires, but you risk going inside the
    
    grass which you don't want to do.  So keep a smooth racing line.  Slow
    
    down as soon as you see some sections of the hairpin (but don't slow
    
    down too early).  Take the turn from the outside and into the inside.
    
    You shouldn't be going any faster than ~70 mph.  By the time you exit
    
    the turn, you should be accelerating and staying alert of the final
    
    ess, which IMHO is the worst part of Trial Mountain.
    
    
    
    Turns 16&17
    
    -----------
    
    Don't go any faster than 110 mph here.  Try to cut both Esses from the
    
    out and in, making sure that you turn ahead of time to avoid any dipping
    
    and jumping (which is unnessary) from the brink of error.  The best time
    
    to slow down is just a *little* after you pass the tunnel.  Keep the car
    
    straight whenever you slow down because if you slant the car while you
    
    brake, you may end up screwing up big time!
    
    
    
    Vestiroth:  This is the horrible area of the game because there's grass
    
    on both sides of the ess, and you may take an unneccessary jump if you
    
    go inside the grass and eventually lose control, so don't take this ess
    
    at full speed.
    
    
    
    ========================================================================
    JAPANESE AND AMERICAN CAR CHAMPIONSHIP
    
    
    Number of Tracks: 5
    Laps per Track: 3
    
    Required Class License: A-Class
    
    Restriction of Car Type: Mitsubishi, Honda, Acura, Toyota, Subaru,
    
    Nissan, Mazda, Chevrolet, and Dodge brand cars only.
    
    Tracks involved: Trial Mountain Reverse, Special Stage Route 5, High
    
    Speed Ring, Grand Valley East Reverse, Special Stage Route 11
    
    Pole Position Bonus: 5000 Credits
    
    Finish First in the Track Bonus: 10000 Credits
    
    Series Winner Bonus: 20000 Credits
    
    Car you get for winning the race: Either the Mitsubishi FTO Limited
    
    Edition or the Dodge Viper GTS-R.  The Mitsubishi FTO LM is my personal
    
    favorite.  While the Dodge Viper GTS-R is a good car, as with all rear
    
    wheel cars, you have to treat the GTS-R with a lot of respect, so the
    
    GTS-R is not a car for beginners.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    Vestiroth's note: This is a nuisance because you've got some Racing
    
    Cars to deal with.  In order to keep up with the competition, I would
    
    really rely on a powerful Japanese Car because they seem to handle much
    
    bettern than the Americans do.  Since the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition
    
    is my personal favorite car in the game, you will need a very powerful
    
    car in order to dominate the series.  Here's what you need to know:
    
    
    
    1.  You can either buy a Mitsubishi GTO Twinturbo, but if you already
    
        have a Nissan Skyline, it works too.  Be sure that you are only
    
        purchasing the all-wheel drive versions of the GTO Twinturbo and
    
        the Skylines.  If you already purchased and fully modified your
    
        Nissan Skyline, disregard these notices.
    
    
    
    2.  If you purchased the Mitsubishi GTO Twinturbo, then try to improve
    
        your skills at the GT Cup.  Hopefully, you've got a Toyota Castrol
    
        Supra GT or a Subaru Impreza Rally Edition on your garage to
    
        dominate the GT Cup!  Use these cars to earn your dough on the GT
    
        Cup.
    
    
    
    3.  Try to have as many credits as you can because you're going to do
    
        some expensive tuning at the Ralli Art!
    
    
    
    4.  Here's what I want you do from this point on (Remember if you can't
    
        afford for these parts earlier on, you can always come back later).
    
        Keep in mind that these are only my recommendations so you should
    
        experience with different parts throughout your gameplay.  I'm
    
        thankful to Sam Davis (sdavis1@mail.wsu.edu) because I'm writing
    
        this FAQ without my Gran Turismo Reference Guide!  Please read his
    
        Menu Translation Guide at GameFAQs.com:
    
    
    
    *  Buy the Sports Muffler
    
    *  Buy the Sports Brake Kit and Brake Balance Controller
    
    *  Buy any Turbo Kit.
    *  Buy the Racing Intercooler kit
    
    *  Buy the Racing Support Suspension Kit
    
    *  Buy Hard Stabilizer Kits on both sides of the car
    
    *  Buy Computer Engine Tune-up, Port Polishing, and Engine Balancing
    
    *  Buy Soft Racing Support Tires
    
    *  Buy Racing Support Gearbox, Triple Clutch, Racing Flywheel, and a
    
       Carbon Driveshaft (if applicable)
    
    *  Undergo all stages of Weight Reduction
    
    *  Transform your Mitsubishi GTO Twinturbo into a 240 mph screamer!
    
    
    
    Remember you can read Sam Davis's Gran Turismo Menu Translation Guide
    
    if you need a better description of these at http://www.gamefaqs.com.
    
    
    
    5.  From this point on, you can throw this car on any of these circuits:
    
    
       -  Japanese and American Car Championship
    
       -  Japanese and British Car Championship
    
       -  Megaspeed Championship
    
    6.  Hopefully, your Mitsubishi GTO Twinturbo is strong enough in this
    
        circuit.  However, if you already have a powerful Nissan Skyline
    
        GTS-R (All-Wheel Drive), then you should use the Skyline instead.
    
        This isn't my favorite series, but if you have a very good Japanese
    
        car, then you should be OK.
    
    
    
    7.  This part of the FAQ assumes that you're driving a heavily-tuned,
    
        racing-compliant Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo.  You will need to change
    
        your strategies a bit if you are driving other cars.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    TRIAL MOUNTAIN REVERSE
    
    
    
    Trial Mountain Reverse is even harder than the original Trial Mountain,
    
    and beginners will need to follow this guide in order to get away from
    
    this track without much damage.  All Country versus Country races begin
    
    in this track, and that's one of the reasons why the series can get
    
    bloody at times.
    
    
    
    Turns 1 and 2
    
    -------------
    
    The key to success in these turns is to cut the apex as much as possible
    
    without touching the slant and without any blatant slowdown.  I would
    
    say that 100 mph (approx) would be safe, although higher speeds may be
    
    possible, depending on your expertise and racing prowess.
    
    
    
    Turn 3
    
    ------
    
    Cut your speed to around 70 mph and take this turn from the outside to
    
    the inside.  Try not to touch the slant at the right side of the track
    
    since this makes your car unstable.  You should have the car back in
    
    straight condition when you take on Turn 4.
    
    
    
    Turn 4
    
    ------
    
    Do the same thing as with Turn 3, but this time around, stay off the
    
    slant at the left side of the track, since your car may "bounce" up
    
    and down (causing you to lose control).  Sliding's acceptable, as
    
    long as you don't turn too sloppy on this turn.
    
    
    
    Turns 5 and 6
    
    -------------
    
    Try to keep a smooth racing line as much as you can to maximize speed
    
    and make sure that you stay off the walls (since they may be a problem
    
    to most of you).  Gently turn ahead of time as each turn starts and
    by the time you finish Turn 6, you should have the car in straight
    
    standing to prepare yourself for Turn 7.
    
    
    
    Turn 7
    
    ------
    
    You will be able to get inside the rightmost side of the track if you
    
    can slow down ahead of time.  I would say that around 80 mph would be
    
    safe.  Make sure that you do not accelerate until after the turn.
    
    
    
    Turn 8
    
    ------
    
    Since I'm inside an All Wheel Drive car, I would brake while I'm inside
    
    the tunnel, and begin turning as the tunnel ends.  As with all turns,
    
    do not accelerate until after you're confident enough that you're not
    
    gonna be hitting any slants as you enter another tunnel.  I would say
    
    that 100 mph would be safe for this turn.
    
    
    
    Turn 9
    
    ------
    The key to undertaking this turn is to skid here without any blatant
    
    loss of speed.  I would say that just *a little* under 90 mph would be
    
    fine to avoid hitting any wall or touching any grass, although you need
    
    to adjust this based upon your expertise.
    
    
    
    Turns 10 and 11
    
    ---------------
    
    Ease up on these turns as much as you can.  By the time you finish up
    
    taking on Turn 11, you need to have your car in a straight line in order
    
    to slow down at Turn 12, which is a deadly hairpin.
    
    
    
    Turn 12
    
    -------
    
    You will carry more control if you cut your speed in a straight line,
    
    making sure that you are not over 50 mph as you take on this turn, and
    
    you cut the apex (while avoiding the walls, grass, and slants).  Do not
    
    accelerate until after the turn.  Please be aware that Turn 13 follows
    
    this turn almost immediately.
    
    
    
    Turn 13
    
    -------
    
    You need to start drifting just before the dip.  Yank the car to the
    
    right *just right* in order to avoid hitting the slant or going off
    
    the track.  By the time you finish this turn, you should have the car
    
    straightened and regained control of your vehicle.
    
    
    
    Turn 14
    
    -------
    
    Start turning ahead of time, and move from the left side of the track
    
    to the right side of the track.  You should be careful not to hit the
    
    slant at the right side of the track as you may take an unnecessary
    
    dip.  You will need as much control as you can when you reach Turns
    
    15 and 16, so negotiate this turn with zest, and don't go too fast.
    
    
    
    Turns 15 and 16
    
    ---------------
    
    The key to success on these turns is to cut the apex of each of these
    
    turns without any contact with the slants, and by going around 120 mph
    
    during both of these turns.  When the left turn starts, yank the wheel
    
    gently, and when the right turn starts, you may need to apply some
    
    braking and drift during the final turn.  By the time you're ready to
    
    cross the finish line, you should be back in control.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 5
    
    
    
    Turn 1
    
    ------
    
    Although you can take this turn in full speed, you need to start your
    
    slowing down as early as this turn so you can take Turn 2 without having
    
    to hit the wall, which wears out your tires.  It's important that you
    
    slow down as early as Turn 1 so you will not be hitting the tunnel wall
    
    or slanting the car at an unnecessary position during Turn 2.
    
    
    
    Turn 2
    
    ------
    
    Since I'm riding on the Subaru Impreza Rally Edition, I would say that
    
    115 mph would be a safe speed.  Rapid tap the gas pedal so you don't
    
    wind up scrapping the right wall.  You might have to apply some braking
    
    if appropriate.
    
    
    
    Turn 3
    
    ------
    
    Take the turn from the out-and-in.  Controlled braking should keep your
    
    car under control and prepared for Turn 4.  As long as you skid, you
    
    should not be hitting the wall.  If you are inside by the time Turn 3
    
    starts, then I don't have an idea on how you will be able to cope with
    
    the turn.
    
    
    
    Turn 4
    
    ------
    
    Slow ahead of time by braking hard as the turn begins, skid as much
    
    as you can, but don't skid too much here because Turn 5 is coming up,
    
    and you want to take this turn as smooth as you can.  I would say the
    
    ideal speed here would be ~70 mph with some skidding, but that would
    
    throw you at the inside by the time you reach Turn 5, so you have to
    
    adjust your tactic on this crappy turn depending on your own personal
    experience.
    
    
    
    Turn 5
    
    ------
    
    Providing that you have taken Turn 4 smoothly, this turn can be taken
    
    with some acceleration.  If you taken Turn 4 horribly, then I don't
    
    have a friggin' clue on how you'll be able to take this turn.
    
    
    
    Turns 6&7
    
    ---------
    
    This ess can be taken at full speed providing that you are turning
    
    ahead of time and providing that you are taking the turn from the
    out-and-in.  Please try to keep a smooth racing line here because
    
    this turns out to be one of the areas where beginners lose control.
    
    You need to be careful not to hit the railing by the time you complete
    
    Turn 7 because if you do, then you'll be sorry.
    
    
    
    Turns 8&9
    
    ---------
    
    The following two turns can be taken with some controlled skidding.
    
    You should try to brake hard ahead of time at Turn 8 so that you don't
    
    hit the left wall.  Make sure that your car is in good shape so that
    
    you can skid Turn 9 without any problems.  Taking the turns out-and-in
    
    style is OK as long as you don't start the turn too early, which may
    
    cause a spin-out.
    
    
    
    Turn 10
    
    -------
    
    Killer Hairpin.  Brake *HARD* so you can take this hairpin without
    
    hitting the wall.  Don't undertake this hairpin too early or that
    
    mistake would mean your last.  Don't skid as you may risk hitting the
    
    wall at the right.  I would say that 40 mph without skidding would be
    
    safe.  Don't use full acceleration until after you pass the hairpin.
    
    
    
    Turn 11
    
    -------
    
    You may wish to accelerate in this turn, but IMHO you need to be
    
    skidding here so you don't have to hit the wall at the left side of
    
    the track, so be prepared to drift as you accelerate back to your
    
    usual speed.  By the time you are about to reach Turn 12, you should
    
    have the car straightened so you can drift once again without any
    
    trouble.
    
    
    
    Turn 12
    
    -------
    
    Take this turn from the out-and-in, and drift with zest so you don't
    
    hit the wall at the left or lose any much needed control.  It's
    
    important that you have the car straightened up by the time you meet
    
    up with the worst area in the track--THE FINAL STRETCH!!!!
    
    
    
    Turns 13-15
    
    -----------
    
    Worst part of the track.  You need to slow down as early as the
    
    painted crosswalk so you can set up for Turn 15, which is a rather
    
    nasty right.  Try not to go any faster than 60 mph on the first two
    
    turns, and when you are about to take Turn 15, you need to be drifting
    
    with zest and not accelerating until you have the car straightened up
    
    but I find this part to be pretty nasty because your timing may be poor
    
    by the time you enter this area.  This part really demands good timing
    
    and practice in order to avoid hitting the walls during the triangle.
    
    
    
    Turn 16
    
    -------
    
    Pretty long Medium Right.  You may need to do some skidding, or you
    
    may not go any faster than 85 mph because this seems to be sharper than
    
    I thought.  You can skid, as long as you don't go too fast.  Don't try
    
    to accelerate until after the turn and after you have the car back to
    
    stance.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    HIGH SPEED RING
    
    
    
    The High Speed Ring is an easy course to lose in if you're inside a lame
    
    vehicle like the Honda Civic and the Chevrolet Camaro.  You will need to
    
    keep a straight racing line as much as possible so you don't fall behind
    
    the competition who shows no mercy here because they tend to show their
    
    prowess and if you goof up, chances are that you won't be able to win.
    
    Advancing to the High Speed Ring, I'm assuming that you do know how to
    
    drive a Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo with all the works.  Learn how to
    
    drive a heavily-chachinated Mitsubishi GTO at the Megaspeed Cup.
    
    
    
    Turn 1
    
    ------
    
    Take this turn at full speed.  Be sure at the final stretch of the turn
    
    that you *slightly* slow down so you don't have to worry about hitting
    
    the wall at the right by the time the turn ends.
    
    
    
    Turn 2
    
    ------
    
    You may want to brake as late as possible so that you can skid here at
    
    higher speeds.  Be sure that you are taking this turn out-and-in, and
    
    by the time you leave the turn, you should prepare for Turns 3 and 4
    
    without much trouble.  Have the car straightened.
    
    
    
    Turns 3 and 4
    
    -------------
    
    You may have to do some *blatant* slow down here since these turns are
    
    the most dangerous turns in the track.  I would cut my speed to around
    
    90 mph so I won't be touching the grass or hitting the wall.  Try to
    
    do some rapid gas tapping in this area.  A feel of the gas is required
    
    to ensure control of the Mitsubishi GTO at all costs.
    
    
    
    Turn 5
    
    ------
    
    Provided that you took Turns 3 and 4 without any blatant trouble, this
    
    would be a good place to prepare for Turn 6.  Stay to the right side
    
    of the track, making sure that you *barely* miss the grass at the right
    
    side of the track.  When Turn 6 starts, you should try to slow down in
    
    a straight line and start taking Turn 6 from the outside and into the
    
    inside.
    
    
    
    Turn 6
    
    ------
    
    Provided that you have slowed down to ~120 mph, you can take this turn
    
    without having to release the gas pedal.  Make sure that you speed out
    
    if necessary if you feel that you're going to get closer to the wall
    
    at the right.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    GRAND VALLEY EAST REVERSE
    
    
    
    Much bizarre than Grand Valley East, GVE Reverse provides some weird
    
    turns, but as long as you don't overspin your tires during harsh turns,
    
    you should be doing fine.
    
    
    
    Turns 1 and 2
    
    -------------
    
    The key to taking these two turns is to control your speed without any
    
    blatant slowdown or wheelspin.  A reasonable speed here would be 100
    mph
    (my experimentation here is rather limited, so bear with me) with
    
    some skidding, but you will need to have the car straightened up just
    
    before you take on Turn 3.
    
    
    
    Turn 3
    
    ------
    
    This turn is pretty damn sharp, so it's important that you slow down
    
    to about 80 mph just before the turn starts so you can cut the apex
    
    of the turn.  You may want to experiment with some sliding here, but
    
    you need to adjust this strategy depending on your experience.
    
    
    
    Turns 4 and 5
    
    -------------
    
    No blatant slowing down allowed.  Try to maintain high speed without
    
    wheelspin or blatant skidding.  The key here would be to start these
    
    turns as early as you can so you maintain your out-and-in routine.
    
    
    
    Turn 6
    
    ------
    
    Turn 6 is where beginners tend to bite the dust.  Cut your speed to
    
    *below* 50 mph just before the Tunnel terminates.  When the turn
    
    begins, you should try to cut the apex as much as you can, but don't
    
    hit the wall at the right or you may overspin the rear tires.
    Sliding's acceptable as long as you don't overdo it.
    
    
    
    Turn 7
    
    ------
    
    The key to taking this turn would be to cut the apex without using
    
    the brakes too much and with a good feel of the gas pedal.  Stay
    
    inside of the track for as much as you can, making sure that your
    
    wheels are touching the slant, *barely* missing the grass.
    
    
    
    Turns 8 and 9
    
    -------------
    
    Keep a smooth racing line at all times.  You can go full speed at
    
    Turn 8, but you may have to do some skidding (be sure to turn before
    the turn starts) on Turn 9.  Here, the key is to maintain a high
    
    speed without any speed loss and without too much skidding.  A good
    
    feel of the gas pedal, brake, and wheel will allow you to smoothen
    
    up your racing line for speed in this area.
    
    
    
    Turn 10
    
    -------
    
    Cut your speed to 60 mph just before the turn begins.  Brake at a
    
    straight line for control, and begin turning when you are comfy
    
    enough.  Don't overdo your drift as you may overspin your rear
    
    wheels.  The key here is to drift to the inside of this turn without
    
    any wheelspin.  You may have to speed out during this turn whenever
    
    appropriate for your safety.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11
    
    
    
    Special Stage Route 11 is where the championship is decided at.  There
    
    tends to be underclassmen who will score more points than in the other
    
    tracks if you underestimate them, so you have to make sure that you
    
    are not taking any turns too harsh because all of them are blind.
    
    Learn this track at the Front-Engine, Front-Drive Car Championships.
    
    
    
    Turn 1
    
    ------
    
    This turn can be taken at full speed.  Just don't get so greedy in the
    
    turn that you forget turning in the second turn.
    
    
    
    Turn 2
    
    ------
    
    Slow down from the outside.  Then as the turn begins, slide throughout
    
    most of the turn (although you may have to hit the wall, it takes
    
    practice to avoid the wall in this course since Special Stage Route 11
    
    is laden with sharps).  Don't be starting the turn too early as you
    
    may hit the right wall.  Be sure that you drift here so that you can
    
    maintain your speed.
    
    
    
    Turns 3 and 4
    
    -------------
    
    It may be *necessary* (but shouldn't be that bad) to slow down, but
    
    don't do too much slowing down as you may risk spinning the rear
    
    wheels blatantly.  Do a slide and you'll be risking hitting a wall
    
    at the left or hitting the gas canisters just before Turns 5 and 6.
    
    The key to undertaking this turn would be to take this turn with the
    
    smoothest possible line without slowing down too much and without
    
    any blatant skidding.  Try not to do too much slowing down since
    
    you're inside an AWD Vehicle.
    
    
    
    Turns 5 and 6
    
    -------------
    
    Try to skid both turns, and make sure that you are not going too fast
    
    on these turns, since you are in risk of spinning out the rear tires.
    
    Have the car straightened as you complete a sharp.  Watch out for the
    
    slant just before Turn 6 starts.  Skid through Turn 6, and then get
    
    ready for Turn 7, which is a hairpin.
    
    
    
    Turn 7
    
    ------
    
    Try to slow down just as the turn starts so you can skid through this
    
    killer hairpin.  Slide throughout the turn and don't accelerate until
    
    you're confident that you won't spin out and that you will not hit the
    
    wall at the left.  You can hug the left wall as you take on this turn
    
    for increased speed, but that takes too much timing, and it's rather
    
    dangerous since you're wearing your left tires.
    
    
    
    Turns 8 and 9
    
    -------------
    
    Turn 8 can be taken at full speed.  Turn 9 is a sharp left that you will
    
    have to slow down just before the turn starts so that you can drift
    
    throughout most of the turn.  Be sure that you are not drifting this
    
    turn too hot as this will result in a spinout.  You can hug the right
    
    wall in order to take this turn with increased speed, but that's rather
    
    dangerous since you risk wearing out the right tires trying to cheat.
    
    
    
    Turns 10-13
    
    -----------
    
    One of my least favorite areas.  You may want to cut your speed to
    
    around 80 mph so you don't end up hitting the wall.  Don't get into a
    
    bad skid here as you will need every inch of control in order to make
    
    through this corridor without hitting the wall.  Keep a smooth racing
    
    line right here.
    
    
    
    Turns 14 and 15
    
    ---------------
    
    These turns can be taken at full speed, but you need to use Turn 15
    
    and the *slight* straightaway in order to prepare for Turns 16 and 17,
    
    which comes in *just about* immediately, so you will need the car
    
    straightened up in preparation for speed reduction for the next chicane.
    
    
    
    Turns 16 and 17
    
    ---------------
    
    If you used the brake while on a lousy position (from Turns 14 and 15),
    
    then you're in for a spinout.  Keep the car running straight, release
    
    the gas pedal, and at around 40-50 mph, I would take on the first half
    
    of the chicane from the out and in but I have to immediately swerve my
    
    car to the left because I'm in for the next chicane.  By the time I
    
    turn at Turn 18, I should *be able* to have the car straightened up and
    
    ready to drift at the next medium or sharp left.
    
    
    
    Turn 18
    
    -------
    
    A good feel of the gas and pedal is required here.  The key to passing
    
    this turn is to keep a smooth racing line with a good feel of the gas
    
    pedal without any blatant slowing down or any unnecessary drifting here.
    
    Apex cutting is acceptable, as long as you are not sloppy taking it.
    
    
    
    Turn 19
    
    -------
    
    There's some easy slants just before this painful hairpin.  You may
    
    wish to do the "Cheating Bastard" maneuver by leaning at the outside of
    
    the track and then with zest timing lean to the right *just right* and
    
    pedal to the metal.  You must time your wheel yanks correctly in order
    
    to cheat on this hairpin.  However, you risk having to wear out your
    
    tires and may face a possible spinout by all means, so an alternative
    
    to the Cheating Bastard maneuver (BTW it's Jaz Rignall of PSM Online
    
    who came up with the idea of the Cheating Bastard), brake as the left
    
    slant concludes *hard*, and yank the car to the right.  Be sure that
    
    you have the car counterbanked and straightened by the time you start
    
    Turns 20 and 21.
    
    
    
    Turns 20 and 21
    
    ---------------
    
    I would treat these two sharps as one turn.  Time your drift so that
    you just *hit* the right wall and that you can have room to straight
    en
    up your car by the time Turn 22 (hairpin) begins.  A bad drift or a
    
    sloppy undertake would result in the competition catching up with you.
    
    
    
    Turn 22
    
    -------
    
    Here, the Cheating Bastard maneuver works here, but it's easier to do
    
    the Cheating Bastard maneuver in this hairpin than in Turn 19 because
    
    you don't have to contend with some slants before the hairpin.  This
    
    applies to the first hairpin just before the tunnel.  As the right
    
    hairpin starts, go way outside, and with zest timing, turn right just
    
    right, and pedal to the metal.  Becoming a cheating bastard takes time
    
    because you need the right timing in order to take on the hairpin at
    
    dangerous speeds (Once again, Jaz Rignall of http://www.psmonline.com)
    
    but it's easier to do with the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition since
    
    All Wheel Drive improves your timing a *little* bit.
    
    
    
    Turns 23 and 24
    
    ---------------
    
    You need to slow down to under 45 mph when you see sections of Turn 23
    
    in order to avoid sloppy screwups.  Brake from the left side of the
    
    track and as you see sections of Turn 23, brake *hard* and as Turn 23
    
    begins, keep a smooth racing line.  A good feel of the gas, brakes, and
    
    the steering wheel is required.
    
    
    
    Turn 25
    
    -------
    
    Keep your speed to around 100 mph at this final turn.  Speed out from
    
    the turn if you are going to get closer to the left wall.  A good feel
    
    of the gas and the pedal is required here.
    
    
    
    ========================================================================
    
    JAPANESE AND BRITISH CAR CHAMPIONSHIP
    
    
    Number of Tracks: 5
    
    Laps per Track: 3
    
    Required Class License: A-Class
    
    Restriction of Car Type: Mitsubishi, Honda, Acura, Toyota, Subaru,
    
    Nissan, Mazda, Aston Martin, and TVR brand cars only.
    
    Tracks involved: Trial Mountain Reverse, Special Stage Route 5, High
    
    Speed Ring, Grand Valley East Reverse, Special Stage Route 11
    
    Pole Position Bonus: 5000 Credits
    
    Finish First in the Track Bonus: 10000 Credits
    
    Series Winner Bonus: 20000 Credits
    
    Car you get for winning the race:  Either the Honda Civic Del Sol LM
    
    (Mid-Engine, Rear Drive, my least favorite car), or a TVR Cerbera LM.
    
    Don't enter the American-British Racing Series until you get the Cerbera
    
    LM.  Neither LMs are my favorites.
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    Vestiroth's note: All of these nation versus nation sports car series
    
    are identical, but since I'm a rather tight strategist, I'm gonna base
    sections of this FAQ based upon the car I drive.  Here's what you need
    
    to do before getting inside the Japanese and British Car Championship:
    
    
    
    1.  Buy a new Mitsubishi GTO Twinturbo.  I like All-Wheel Drive cars.
    
        You may think that I'm out of this world because I'm telling you
    
        these $#!^ notes, but hey, I want you to dominate the series as
    
        much as I want you to.
    
    
    
    2.  Improve your skills at the GT Cup.  Hopefully, you've got a Toyota
    
        Castrol Supra GT or a Subaru Impreza Rally Edition on your garage
    
        to dominate the GT Cup!  Use these cars to earn your dough on the
    
        GT Cup.
    
    
    
    3.  Try to have as many credits as you can because you're going to do
    
        some expensive tuning at the Ralli Art!
    
    
    
    4.  Here's what I want you do from this point on (Remember if you can't
    
        afford for these parts earlier on, you can always come back later).
    
        Keep in mind that these are only my recommendations so you should
    
        experience with different parts throughout your gameplay.  I'm
    
        thankful to Sam Davis (sdavis1@mail.wsu.edu) because I'm writing
    
        this FAQ without my Gran Turismo Reference Guide!  Please read his
    
        Menu Translation Guide at GameFAQs.com:
    
    *  Buy the Sports Muffler
    
    
    *  Buy the Sports Brake Kit and Brake Balance Controller
    
    *  Buy any Turbo Kit.
    
    *  Buy the Racing Intercooler kit
    
    *  Buy the Racing Support Suspension Kit
    
    *  Buy Hard Stabilizer Kits on both sides of the car
    
    *  Buy Computer Engine Tune-up, Port Polishing, and Engine Balancing
    
    *  Buy Soft Racing Support Tires
    
    *  Buy Racing Support Gearbox, Triple Clutch, Racing Flywheel, and a
    
       Carbon Driveshaft (if applicable)
    
    *  Undergo all stages of Weight Reduction
    
    *  Transform your Mitsubishi GTO Twinturbo into a 240 mph screamer!
    
    
    
    Remember you can read Sam Davis's Gran Turismo Menu Translation Guide
    
    if you need a better description of these at http://www.gamefaqs.com.
    
    5.  From this point, you should be practicing dominating the Megaspeed
    
        championships because you should be able to have a heavily-tuned,
    
        racing-modified Mitsubishi GTO TwinTurbo.  I reached 242 mph on the
    
        Test Course during the Megaspeed Championship.  How about that?
    
    
    
    6.  Once you got used to the Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo long enough,
    
        throw this car in the Japanese and American Car championships, and
    
        laugh hard by dominating the series.  You should be able to Pole
    
        Position on all five courses, and you should place 1st on all the
        five courses, and your car should be powerful enough to overwhelm
    
        the Subaru Impreza Rally Edition, which is a key concern in the
    
        Japanese and American Sports Car Championships.
    
    
    
    7.  If you can win the Japanese and American Car series, you should
    
        receive a Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition.  It's an All-Wheel Drive
    
        racer, but it's easier to control and handle than the seemingly
    
        hard-to-get-used-to GTO Twinturbo.
    
    
    
    8.  This part of the FAQ assumes that you're driving a heavily-tuned,
    
        racing-compliant Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition.  You will need to
    
        change your strategies a bit if you are driving other cars.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    TRIAL MOUNTAIN REVERSE
    
    
    
    With the Mitsubishi FTO in your possesion, you should be able to take
    
    on Trial Mountain Reverse without any problems (as opposed to the GTO
    
    Twin Turbo undergoing lots of mods and Castrol Stickers).  You still
    
    need to utilize all of your driving potential here in order to fry the
    
    competition to a crisp, though.
    
    
    
    Turns 1 and 2
    
    -------------
    
    The key to success in these turns is to cut the apex as much as possible
    
    without touching the slant and without any blatant slowdown.  I would
    
    say that 100 mph (approx) would be safe, although higher speeds may be
    
    possible, depending on your expertise and racing prowess.
    
    
    
    Turn 3
    
    ------
    
    Cut your speed to around 70 mph and take this turn from the outside to
    
    the inside.  Try not to touch the slant at the right side of the track
    
    since this makes your car unstable.  You should have the car back in
    
    straight condition when you take on Turn 4.
    
    
    
    Turn 4
    
    ------
    
    Do the same thing as with Turn 3, but this time around, stay off the
    
    slant at the left side of the track, since your car may "bounce" up
    
    and down (causing you to lose control).  Sliding's acceptable, as
    
    long as you don't turn too sloppy on this turn.
    
    
    
    Turns 5 and 6
    
    -------------
    
    Try to keep a smooth racing line as much as you can to maximize speed
    
    and make sure that you stay off the walls (since they may be a problem
    
    to most of you).  Gently turn ahead of time as each turn starts and
    
    by the time you finish Turn 6, you should have the car in straight
    
    standing to prepare yourself for Turn 7.
    
    
    
    Turn 7
    
    ------
    You will be able to get inside the rightmost side of the track if you
    
    can slow down ahead of time.  I would say that around 80 mph would be
    
    safe.  Make sure that you do not accelerate until after the turn.
    
    
    
    Turn 8
    
    ------
    Since I'm inside an All Wheel Drive car, I would brake while I'm inside
    the tunnel, and begin turning as the tunnel ends.  As with all turns,
    
    do not accelerate until after you're confident enough that you're not
    
    gonna be hitting any slants as you enter another tunnel.  I would say
    
    that 100 mph would be safe for this turn.
    
    
    
    Turn 9
    
    ------
    
    The key to undertaking this turn is to skid here without any blatant
    
    loss of speed.  I would say that just *a little* under 90 mph would be
    
    fine to avoid hitting any wall or touching any grass, although you need
    
    to adjust this based upon your expertise.
    
    
    
    Turns 10 and 11
    
    ---------------
    
    Ease up on these turns as much as you can.  By the time you finish up
    
    taking on Turn 11, you need to have your car in a straight line in order
    
    to slow down at Turn 12, which is a deadly hairpin.
    
    
    
    Turn 12
    
    -------
    
    You will carry more control if you cut your speed in a straight line,
    
    making sure that you are not over 50 mph as you take on this turn, and
    
    you cut the apex (while avoiding the walls, grass, and slants).  Do not
    
    accelerate until after the turn.  Please be aware that Turn 13 follows
    
    this turn almost immediately.
    
    
    
    Turn 13
    
    -------
    
    You need to start drifting just before the dip.  Yank the car to the
    
    right *just right* in order to avoid hitting the slant or going off
    
    the track.  By the time you finish this turn, you should have the car
    
    straightened and regained control of your vehicle.
    
    
    
    Turn 14
    
    -------
    
    Start turning ahead of time, and move from the left side of the track
    
    to the right side of the track.  You should be careful not to hit the
    
    slant at the right side of the track as you may take an unnecessary
    
    dip.  You will need as much control as you can when you reach Turns
    
    15 and 16, so negotiate this turn with zest, and don't go too fast.
    
    
    
    Turns 15 and 16
    ---------------
    
    The key to success on these turns is to cut the apex of each of these
    
    turns without any contact with the slants, and by going around 120 mph
    
    during both of these turns.  When the left turn starts, yank the wheel
    
    gently, and when the right turn starts, you may need to apply some
    
    braking and drift during the final turn.  By the time you're ready to
    
    cross the finish line, you should be back in control.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 5
    
    
    
    Turn 1
    
    ------
    
    Although you can take this turn in full speed, you need to start your
    
    slowing down as early as this turn so you can take Turn 2 without having
    
    to hit the wall, which wears out your tires.  It's important that you
    
    slow down as early as Turn 1 so you will not be hitting the tunnel wall
    
    or slanting the car at an unnecessary position during Turn 2.
    
    
    
    Turn 2
    
    ------
    
    Since I'm riding on the Subaru Impreza Rally Edition, I would say that
    
    115 mph would be a safe speed.  Rapid tap the gas pedal so you don't
    
    wind up scrapping the right wall.  You might have to apply some braking
    
    if appropriate.
    
    
    
    Turn 3
    
    ------
    
    Take the turn from the out-and-in.  Controlled braking should keep your
    
    car under control and prepared for Turn 4.  As long as you skid, you
    
    should not be hitting the wall.  If you are inside by the time Turn 3
    
    starts, then I don't have an idea on how you will be able to cope with
    
    the turn.
    
    
    
    Turn 4
    
    ------
    
    Slow ahead of time by braking hard as the turn begins, skid as much
    
    as you can, but don't skid too much here because Turn 5 is coming up,
    
    and you want to take this turn as smooth as you can.  I would say the
    
    ideal speed here would be ~70 mph with some skidding, but that would
    
    throw you at the inside by the time you reach Turn 5, so you have to
    
    adjust your tactic on this crappy turn depending on your own personal
    
    experience.
    
    
    
    Turn 5
    
    ------
    
    Providing that you have taken Turn 4 smoothly, this turn can be taken
    
    with some acceleration.  If you taken Turn 4 horribly, then I don't
    
    have a friggin' clue on how you'll be able to take this turn.
    
    
    
    Turns 6&7
    
    ---------
    
    This ess can be taken at full speed providing that you are turning
    
    ahead of time and providing that you are taking the turn from the
    
    out-and-in.  Please try to keep a smooth racing line here because
    
    this turns out to be one of the areas where beginners lose control.
    
    You need to be careful not to hit the railing by the time you complete
    
    Turn 7 because if you do, then you'll be sorry.
    
    
    
    Turns 8&9
    
    ---------
    The following two turns can be taken with some controlled skidding.
    
    You should try to brake hard ahead of time at Turn 8 so that you don't
    
    hit the left wall.  Make sure that your car is in good shape so that
    
    you can skid Turn 9 without any problems.  Taking the turns out-and-in
    
    style is OK as long as you don't start the turn too early, which may
    
    cause a spin-out.
    
    
    
    Turn 10
    
    -------
    Killer Hairpin.  Brake *HARD* so you can take this hairpin without
    
    hitting the wall.  Don't undertake this hairpin too early or that
    
    mistake would mean your last.  Don't skid as you may risk hitting the
    
    wall at the right.  I would say that 40 mph without skidding would be
    
    safe.  Don't use full acceleration until after you pass the hairpin.
    
    
    
    Turn 11
    
    -------
    
    You may wish to accelerate in this turn, but IMHO you need to be
    
    skidding here so you don't have to hit the wall at the left side of
    
    the track, so be prepared to drift as you accelerate back to your
    
    usual speed.  By the time you are about to reach Turn 12, you should
    
    have the car straightened so you can drift once again without any
    
    trouble.
    
    
    
    Turn 12
    
    -------
    
    Take this turn from the out-and-in, and drift with zest so you don't
    
    hit the wall at the left or lose any much needed control.  It's
    
    important that you have the car straightened up by the time you meet
    
    up with the worst area in the track--THE FINAL STRETCH!!!!
    
    
    
    Turns 13-15
    
    -----------
    
    Worst part of the track.  You need to slow down as early as the
    
    painted crosswalk so you can set up for Turn 15, which is a rather
    
    nasty right.  Try not to go any faster than 60 mph on the first two
    
    turns, and when you are about to take Turn 15, you need to be drifting
    
    with zest and not accelerating until you have the car straightened up
    
    but I find this part to be pretty nasty because your timing may be poor
    
    by the time you enter this area.  This part really demands good timing
    
    and practice in order to avoid hitting the walls during the triangle.
    
    
    
    Turn 16
    
    -------
    
    Pretty long Medium Right.  You may need to do some skidding, or you
    
    may not go any faster than 85 mph because this seems to be sharper than
    
    I thought.  You can skid, as long as you don't go too fast.  Don't try
    
    to accelerate until after the turn and after you have the car back to
    
    stance.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    HIGH SPEED RING
    
    
    
    Although this seems to be a terrible course for you to enter (mainly
    
    because some of the British Cars tend to pose a higher threat level than
    
    they do in the other tracks), you can Pole Position and win the track
    
    if you are a skilled TVR Cerbera Limited Edition driver or if you took
    
    the time to make the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition your slave.  Taking
    
    turns smoothly and avoiding any blatant skidding will ensure that no one
    
    will oppose your racing authority during this course.
    
    
    
    Turn 1
    
    ------
    
    Take this turn at full speed.  Be sure at the final stretch of the turn
    
    that you *slightly* slow down so you don't have to worry about hitting
    
    the wall at the right by the time the turn ends.
    
    
    
    Turn 2
    
    ------
    
    You may want to brake as late as possible so that you can skid here at
    
    higher speeds.  Be sure that you are taking this turn out-and-in, and
    
    by the time you leave the turn, you should prepare for Turns 3 and 4
    
    without much trouble.  Have the car straightened.
    
    
    
    Turns 3 and 4
    
    -------------
    
    You may have to do some *blatant* slow down here since these turns are
    
    the most dangerous turns in the track.  I would cut my speed to around
    
    90 mph so I won't be touching the grass or hitting the wall.  Try to
    
    do some rapid gas tapping in this area.  A feel of the gas is required
    
    to ensure control of the Mitsubishi GTO at all costs.
    
    
    
    Turn 5
    
    ------
    
    Provided that you took Turns 3 and 4 without any blatant trouble, this
    
    would be a good place to prepare for Turn 6.  Stay to the right side
    
    of the track, making sure that you *barely* miss the grass at the right
    
    side of the track.  When Turn 6 starts, you should try to slow down in
    
    a straight line and start taking Turn 6 from the outside and into the
    
    inside.
    
    
    
    Turn 6
    
    ------
    
    Provided that you have slowed down to ~120 mph, you can take this turn
    without having to release the gas pedal.  Make sure that you speed out
    
    if necessary if you feel that you're going to get closer to the wall
    at the right.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    GRAND VALLEY EAST REVERSE
    
    
    
    Much bizarre than Grand Valley East, GVE Reverse provides some weird
    turns, but as long as you don't overspin your tires during harsh turns,
    
    you should be doing fine.
    
    
    
    Turns 1 and 2
    
    -------------
    The key to taking these two turns is to control your speed without any
    
    blatant slowdown or wheelspin.  A reasonable speed here would be 100
    mph
    (my experimentation here is rather limited, so bear with me) with
    some
    skidding, but you will need to have the car straightened up just
    
    before you take on Turn 3.
    
    
    
    Turn 3
    
    ------
    
    This turn is pretty damn sharp, so it's important that you slow down
    
    to about 80 mph just before the turn starts so you can cut the apex
    of the turn.  You may want to experiment with some sliding here, but
    
    you need to adjust this strategy depending on your experience.
    
    
    
    Turns 4 and 5
    
    -------------
    
    No blatant slowing down allowed.  Try to maintain high speed without
    
    wheelspin or blatant skidding.  The key here would be to start these
    
    turns as early as you can so you maintain your out-and-in routine.
    
    
    
    Turn 6
    
    ------
    
    Turn 6 is where beginners tend to bite the dust.  Cut your speed to
    
    *below* 50 mph just before the Tunnel terminates.  When the turn
    
    begins, you should try to cut the apex as much as you can, but don't
    
    hit the wall at the right or you may overspin the rear tires.
    
    Sliding's acceptable as long as you don't overdo it.
    
    
    
    Turn 7
    
    ------
    
    The key to taking this turn would be to cut the apex without using
    
    the brakes too much and with a good feel of the gas pedal.  Stay
    
    inside of the track for as much as you can, making sure that your
    
    wheels are touching the slant, *barely* missing the grass.
    
    
    
    Turns 8 and 9
    
    -------------
    
    Keep a smooth racing line at all times.  You can go full speed at
    
    Turn 8, but you may have to do some skidding (be sure to turn before
    
    the turn starts) on Turn 9.  Here, the key is to maintain a high
    
    speed without any speed loss and without too much skidding.  A good
    
    feel of the gas pedal, brake, and wheel will allow you to smoothen
    
    up your racing line for speed in this area.
    
    
    
    Turn 10
    
    -------
    
    Cut your speed to 60 mph just before the turn begins.  Brake at a
    s
    traight line for control, and begin turning when you are comfy
    
    enough.  Don't overdo your drift as you may overspin your rear
    
    wheels.  The key here is to drift to the inside of this turn without
    
    any wheelspin.  You may have to speed out during this turn whenever
    
    appropriate for your safety.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11
    
    
    
    If there's a track that will push me to use the Mitsubishi FTO Limited
    
    Edition for the Japanese and British Car Championships, then it would
    
    be this course.  It's array of blind turns, tight curves, and bizarre
    
    corridors makes this track reserved for All Wheel Drive cars only.
    
    
    
    Turn 1
    
    ------
    
    This turn can be taken at full speed.  Just don't get so greedy in the
    
    turn that you forget turning in the second turn.
    
    
    
    Turn 2
    
    ------
    
    Slow down from the outside.  Then as the turn begins, slide throughout
    
    most of the turn (although you may have to hit the wall, it takes
    
    practice to avoid the wall in this course since Special Stage Route 11
    
    is laden with sharps).  Don't be starting the turn too early as you
    
    may hit the right wall.  Be sure that you drift here so that you can
    
    maintain your speed.
    
    
    
    Turns 3 and 4
    
    -------------
    
    It may be *necessary* (but shouldn't be that bad) to slow down, but
    
    don't do too much slowing down as you may risk spinning the rear
    
    wheels blatantly.  Do a slide and you'll be risking hitting a wall
    
    at the left or hitting the gas canisters just before Turns 5 and 6.
    
    The key to undertaking this turn would be to take this turn with the
    
    smoothest possible line without slowing down too much and without
    
    any blatant skidding.  Try not to do too much slowing down since
    
    you're inside an AWD Vehicle.
    
    
    
    Turns 5 and 6
    
    -------------
    
    Try to skid both turns, and make sure that you are not going too fast
    
    on these turns, since you are in risk of spinning out the rear tires.
    
    Have the car straightened as you complete a sharp.  Watch out for the
    
    slant just before Turn 6 starts.  Skid through Turn 6, and then get
    ready for Turn 7, which is a hairpin.
    
    
    
    Turn 7
    
    ------
    Try to slow down just as the turn starts so you can skid through this
    
    killer hairpin.  Slide throughout the turn and don't accelerate until
    
    you're confident that you won't spin out and that you will not hit the
    
    wall at the left.  You can hug the left wall as you take on this turn
    
    for increased speed, but that takes too much timing, and it's rather
    
    dangerous since you're wearing your left tires.
    
    
    
    Turns 8 and 9
    
    -------------
    
    Turn 8 can be taken at full speed.  Turn 9 is a sharp left that you will
    
    have to slow down just before the turn starts so that you can drift
    
    throughout most of the turn.  Be sure that you are not drifting this
    
    turn too hot as this will result in a spinout.  You can hug the right
    
    wall in order to take this turn with increased speed, but that's rather
    
    dangerous since you risk wearing out the right tires trying to cheat.
    
    
    
    Turns 10-13
    
    -----------
    
    You may want to cut your speed to around 80 mph so you don't end up
    
    hitting the wall.  Don't get into a bad skid here as you will need
    
    every inch of control in order to make through this corridor without
    
    hitting the wall.  Keep a smooth racing line right here.  One of my least
    
    favorite corridors.
    
    
    
    Turns 14 and 15
    
    ---------------
    
    These turns can be taken at full speed, but you need to use Turn 15
    
    and the *slight* straightaway in order to prepare for Turns 16 and 17,
    
    which comes in *just about* immediately, so you will need the car
    
    straightened up in preparation for speed reduction for the next chicane.
    
    
    
    Turns 16 and 17
    
    ---------------
    
    If you used the brake while on a lousy position (from Turns 14 and 15),
    
    then you're in for a spinout.  Keep the car running straight, release
    
    the gas pedal, and at around 40-50 mph, I would take on the first half
    
    of the chicane from the out and in but I have to immediately swerve my
    
    car to the left because I'm in for the next chicane.  By the time I
    
    turn at Turn 18, I should *be able* to have the car straightened up and
    
    ready to drift at the next medium or sharp left.
    
    
    
    Turn 18
    
    -------
    
    A good feel of the gas and pedal is required here.  The key to passing
    
    this turn is to keep a smooth racing line with a good feel of the gas
    
    pedal without any blatant slowing down or any unnecessary drifting here.
    
    Apex cutting is acceptable, as long as you are not sloppy taking it.
    
    
    
    Turn 19
    
    -------
    
    There's some easy slants just before this painful hairpin.  You may
    
    wish to do the "Cheating Bastard" maneuver by leaning at the outside of
    
    the track and then with zest timing lean to the right *just right* and
    
    pedal to the metal.  You must time your wheel yanks correctly in order
    to cheat on this hairpin.  However, you risk having to wear out your
    
    tires and may face a possible spinout by all means, so an alternative
    to the Cheating Bastard maneuver (BTW it's Jaz Rignall of PSM Online
    
    who came up with the idea of the Cheating Bastard), brake as the left
    
    slant concludes *hard*, and yank the car to the right.  Be sure that
    
    you have the car counterbanked and straightened by the time you start
    
    Turns 20 and 21.
    
    
    
    Turns 20 and 21
    
    ---------------
    
    I would treat these two sharps as one turn.  Time your drift so that
    
    you just *hit* the right wall and that you can have room to straighten
    
    up your car by the time Turn 22 (hairpin) begins.  A bad drift or a
    
    sloppy undertake would result in the competition catching up with you.
    
    
    
    Turn 22
    
    -------
    
    Here, the Cheating Bastard maneuver works here, but it's easier to do
    
    the Cheating Bastard maneuver in this hairpin than in Turn 19 because
    
    you don't have to contend with some slants before the hairpin.  This
    
    applies to the first hairpin just before the tunnel.  As the right
    
    hairpin starts, go way outside, and with zest timing, turn right just
    
    right, and pedal to the metal.  Becoming a cheating bastard takes time
    
    because you need the right timing in order to take on the hairpin at
    
    dangerous speeds (Once again, Jaz Rignall of http://www.psmonline.com)
    
    but it's easier to do with the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition since
    
    All Wheel Drive improves your timing a *little* bit.
    
    
    
    Turns 23 and 24
    
    ---------------
    
    You need to slow down to under 45 mph when you see sections of Turn 23
    
    in order to avoid sloppy screwups.  Brake from the left side of the
    
    track and as you see sections of Turn 23, brake *hard* and as Turn 23
    
    begins, keep a smooth racing line.  A good feel of the gas, brakes, and
    
    the steering wheel is required.
    
    
    
    Turn 25
    
    -------
    Keep your speed to around 100 mph at this final turn.  Speed out from
    
    the turn if you are going to get closer to the left wall.  A good feel
    
    of the gas and the pedal is required here.
    
    
    
    ========================================================================
    
    AMERICAN AND BRITISH CAR CHAMPIONSHIP
    
    
    Number of Tracks: 5
    
    Laps per Track: 3
    
    Required Class License: A-Class
    
    Restriction of Car Type: Dodge, Chevrolet, TVR, and Aston Martin brand
    
    cars only.
    
    Tracks involved: Trial Mountain Reverse, Special Stage Route 5, High
    
    Speed Ring, Grand Valley East Reverse, Special Stage Route 11
    
    Pole Position Bonus: 5000 Credits
    
    Finish First in the Track Bonus: 10000 Credits
    
    Series Winner Bonus: 20000 Credits
    
    Car you get for winning the race: Either the Mazda RX-7 A-Spec Limited
    
    Edition or the Racing Concept Car.  Both of these cars are my most hated
    
    cars.  The Concept Car remains on my most hated list.  Too hard to control.
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    Vestiroth's note: This is IMHO the worst among the nation versus nation
    
    sport car series because you're only allowed to use American and British
    
    cars, all which are rear-wheel drive cars.  Since you're bound to lose
    
    some fire on this series (because you're bound to hit some walls or spin
    
    out as you learn how to dominate this course), I have tried to mix a
    
    good blend of speed and handling as much as I can.  You need to place
    
    first on four out of 5 courses in order to win.  You may wind up losing
    on Special Stage Route 11 because this course tests your ability to be
    
    a competent driver rather than on speed.  In order to make sure that
    
    you PLACE FIRST IN AT LEAST the Trial Mountain Reverse, Special Stage
    
    Route 5, High Speed Ring, and the Grand Valley East Reverse.  I really
    
    can't recommend going on this course unless you have the TVR Cerbera
    
    LM with you.  This is NOT my favorite series at all.
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    TRIAL MOUNTAIN REVERSE
    
    
    
    I have no clue on how you will be able to beat this track since you are
    
    inside either a Dodge Viper or a TVR Cerbera Limited Edition.  You need
    
    to slow down ahead of time to avoid any sloppy skidding or overspin of
    
    the rear tires to stay within the competition.  Like I said, this is one
    
    of my turn-offs in all of Gran Turismo.
    
    
    
    Turns 1 and 2
    
    -------------
    
    The key to success in these turns is to cut the apex as much as possible
    
    without touching the slant and without any blatant slowdown.  I would
    
    say that 100 mph (approx) would be safe, although higher speeds may be
    
    possible, depending on your expertise and racing prowess.
    
    
    
    Turn 3
    
    ------
    
    Cut your speed to around 70 mph and take this turn from the outside to
    
    the inside.  Try not to touch the slant at the right side of the track
    
    since this makes your car unstable.  You should have the car back in
    
    straight condition when you take on Turn 4.
    
    
    
    Turn 4
    
    ------
    Do the same thing as with Turn 3, but this time around, stay off the
    
    slant at the left side of the track, since your car may "bounce" up
    
    and down (causing you to lose control).  Sliding's acceptable, as
    
    long as you don't turn too sloppy on this turn.
    
    
    
    Turns 5 and 6
    
    -------------
    
    Try to keep a smooth racing line as much as you can to maximize speed
    
    and make sure that you stay off the walls (since they may be a problem
    
    to most of you).  Gently turn ahead of time as each turn starts and
    
    by the time you finish Turn 6, you should have the car in straight
    
    standing to prepare yourself for Turn 7.
    
    
    
    Turn 7
    
    ------
    
    You will be able to get inside the rightmost side of the track if you
    
    can slow down ahead of time.  I would say that around 80 mph would be
    
    safe.  Make sure that you do not accelerate until after the turn.
    
    
    
    Turn 8
    
    ------
    Since I'm inside an All Wheel Drive car, I would brake while I'm inside
    
    the tunnel, and begin turning as the tunnel ends.  As with all turns,
    
    do not accelerate until after you're confident enough that you're not
    
    gonna be hitting any slants as you enter another tunnel.  I would say
    
    that 100 mph would be safe for this turn.
    
    
    
    Turn 9
    
    ------
    
    The key to undertaking this turn is to skid here without any blatant
    
    loss of speed.  I would say that just *a little* under 90 mph would be
    
    fine to avoid hitting any wall or touching any grass, although you need
    
    to adjust this based upon your expertise.
    
    
    
    Turns 10 and 11
    
    ---------------
    
    Ease up on these turns as much as you can.  By the time you finish up
    
    taking on Turn 11, you need to have your car in a straight line in order
    
    to slow down at Turn 12, which is a deadly hairpin.
    
    
    
    Turn 12
    
    -------
    
    You will carry more control if you cut your speed in a straight line,
    
    making sure that you are not over 50 mph as you take on this turn, and
    
    you cut the apex (while avoiding the walls, grass, and slants).  Do not
    
    accelerate until after the turn.  Please be aware that Turn 13 follows
    
    this turn almost immediately.
    
    
    
    Turn 13
    
    -------
    
    You need to start drifting just before the dip.  Yank the car to the
    
    right *just right* in order to avoid hitting the slant or going off
    
    the track.  By the time you finish this turn, you should have the car
    
    straightened and regained control of your vehicle.
    
    
    
    Turn 14
    
    -------
    
    Start turning ahead of time, and move from the left side of the track
    
    to the right side of the track.  You should be careful not to hit the
    
    slant at the right side of the track as you may take an unnecessary
    
    dip.  You will need as much control as you can when you reach Turns
    
    15 and 16, so negotiate this turn with zest, and don't go too fast.
    
    
    
    Turns 15 and 16
    
    ---------------
    
    The key to success on these turns is to cut the apex of each of these
    
    turns without any contact with the slants, and by going around 120 mph
    
    during both of these turns.  When the left turn starts, yank the wheel
    
    gently, and when the right turn starts, you may need to apply some
    
    braking and drift during the final turn.  By the time you're ready to
    
    cross the finish line, you should be back in control.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 5
    
    
    
    Turn 1
    
    ------
    
    Although you can take this turn in full speed, you need to start your
    
    slowing down as early as this turn so you can take Turn 2 without having
    
    to hit the wall, which wears out your tires.  It's important that you
    
    slow down as early as Turn 1 so you will not be hitting the tunnel wall
    
    or slanting the car at an unnecessary position during Turn 2.
    
    
    
    Turn 2
    
    ------
    
    Since I'm riding on the Subaru Impreza Rally Edition, I would say that
    
    115 mph would be a safe speed.  Rapid tap the gas pedal so you don't
    
    wind up scrapping the right wall.  You might have to apply some braking
    
    if appropriate.
    
    
    
    Turn 3
    
    ------
    
    Take the turn from the out-and-in.  Controlled braking should keep your
    
    car under control and prepared for Turn 4.  As long as you skid, you
    
    should not be hitting the wall.  If you are inside by the time Turn 3
    
    starts, then I don't have an idea on how you will be able to cope with
    
    the turn.
    
    
    
    Turn 4
    
    ------
    
    Slow ahead of time by braking hard as the turn begins, skid as much
    
    as you can, but don't skid too much here because Turn 5 is coming up,
    
    and you want to take this turn as smooth as you can.  I would say the
    
    ideal speed here would be ~70 mph with some skidding, but that would
    
    throw you at the inside by the time you reach Turn 5, so you have to
    
    adjust your tactic on this crappy turn depending on your own personal
    
    experience.
    
    
    
    Turn 5
    ------
    
    Providing that you have taken Turn 4 smoothly, this turn can be taken
    
    with some acceleration.  If you taken Turn 4 horribly, then I don't
    
    have a friggin' clue on how you'll be able to take this turn.
    
    
    
    Turns 6&7
    
    ---------
    
    This ess can be taken at full speed providing that you are turning
    
    ahead of time and providing that you are taking the turn from the
    
    out-and-in.  Please try to keep a smooth racing line here because
    
    this turns out to be one of the areas where beginners lose control.
    
    You need to be careful not to hit the railing by the time you complete
    
    Turn 7 because if you do, then you'll be sorry.
    
    
    
    Turns 8&9
    
    ---------
    
    The following two turns can be taken with some controlled skidding.
    
    You should try to brake hard ahead of time at Turn 8 so that you don't
    
    hit the left wall.  Make sure that your car is in good shape so that
    
    you can skid Turn 9 without any problems.  Taking the turns out-and-in
    
    style is OK as long as you don't start the turn too early, which may
    
    cause a spin-out.
    
    
    
    Turn 10
    
    -------
    
    Killer Hairpin.  Brake *HARD* so you can take this hairpin without
    
    hitting the wall.  Don't undertake this hairpin too early or that
    
    mistake would mean your last.  Don't skid as you may risk hitting the
    
    wall at the right.  I would say that 40 mph without skidding would be
    
    safe.  Don't use full acceleration until after you pass the hairpin.
    
    
    
    Turn 11
    
    -------
    
    You may wish to accelerate in this turn, but IMHO you need to be
    
    skidding here so you don't have to hit the wall at the left side of
    
    the track, so be prepared to drift as you accelerate back to your
    
    usual speed.  By the time you are about to reach Turn 12, you should
    
    have the car straightened so you can drift once again without any
    
    trouble.
    
    
    
    Turn 12
    
    -------
    
    Take this turn from the out-and-in, and drift with zest so you don't
    
    hit the wall at the left or lose any much needed control.  It's
    
    important that you have the car straightened up by the time you meet
    up with the worst area in the track--THE FINAL STRETCH!!!!
    
    
    
    Turns 13-15
    
    -----------
    
    Worst part of the track.  You need to slow down as early as the
    
    painted crosswalk so you can set up for Turn 15, which is a rather
    
    nasty right.  Try not to go any faster than 60 mph on the first two
    
    turns, and when you are about to take Turn 15, you need to be drifting
    
    with zest and not accelerating until you have the car straightened up
    
    but I find this part to be pretty nasty because your timing may be poor
    
    by the time you enter this area.  This part really demands good timing
    
    and practice in order to avoid hitting the walls during the triangle.
    
    
    
    Turn 16
    
    -------
    
    Pretty long Medium Right.  You may need to do some skidding, or you
    
    may not go any faster than 85 mph because this seems to be sharper than
    
    I thought.  You can skid, as long as you don't go too fast.  Don't try
    
    to accelerate until after the turn and after you have the car back to
    
    stance.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    HIGH SPEED RING
    
    
    
    Unless you're inside the wheel of a mighty Dodge Viper GTS-R or a TVR
    
    Cerbera Limited Edition, you will find yourself in dead last once you
    
    finished this course because all of the cars tend to pose a vital threat
    
    to your racing dominance in the series.  You need to average about 147
    
    mph all around in order to win this track, and avoid any blatant goof-
    
    offs or spinouts in order to keep up with the competition.
    
    
    
    Turn 1
    
    ------
    
    Take this turn at full speed.  Be sure at the final stretch of the turn
    
    that you *slightly* slow down so you don't have to worry about hitting
    
    the wall at the right by the time the turn ends.
    
    
    
    Turn 2
    
    ------
    
    You may want to brake as late as possible so that you can skid here at
    
    higher speeds.  Be sure that you are taking this turn out-and-in, and
    
    by the time you leave the turn, you should prepare for Turns 3 and 4
    
    without much trouble.  Have the car straightened.
    
    
    
    Turns 3 and 4
    
    -------------
    
    You may have to do some *blatant* slow down here since these turns are
    
    the most dangerous turns in the track.  I would cut my speed to around
    
    90 mph so I won't be touching the grass or hitting the wall.  Try to
    
    do some rapid gas tapping in this area.  A feel of the gas is required
    
    to ensure control of the Mitsubishi GTO at all costs.
    
    
    
    Turn 5
    
    ------
    
    Provided that you took Turns 3 and 4 without any blatant trouble, this
    
    would be a good place to prepare for Turn 6.  Stay to the right side
    
    of the track, making sure that you *barely* miss the grass at the right
    
    side of the track.  When Turn 6 starts, you should try to slow down in
    
    a straight line and start taking Turn 6 from the outside and into the
    
    inside.
    
    
    
    Turn 6
    
    ------
    
    Provided that you have slowed down to ~120 mph, you can take this turn
    
    without having to release the gas pedal.  Make sure that you speed out
    
    if necessary if you feel that you're going to get closer to the wall
    
    at the right.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    GRAND VALLEY EAST REVERSE
    
    
    
    Much bizarre than Grand Valley East, GVE Reverse provides some weird
    
    turns, but as long as you don't overspin your tires during harsh turns,
    
    you should be doing fine.
    
    
    
    Turns 1 and 2
    
    -------------
    
    The key to taking these two turns is to control your speed without any
    
    blatant slowdown or wheelspin.  A reasonable speed here would be 100
    
    mph (my experimentation here is rather limited, so bear with me) with
    
    some skidding, but you will need to have the car straightened up just
    
    before you take on Turn 3.
    
    
    
    Turn 3
    
    ------
    
    This turn is pretty damn sharp, so it's important that you slow down
    
    to about 80 mph just before the turn starts so you can cut the apex
    
    of the turn.  You may want to experiment with some sliding here, but
    
    you need to adjust this strategy depending on your experience.
    
    
    
    Turns 4 and 5
    
    -------------
    
    No blatant slowing down allowed.  Try to maintain high speed without
    
    wheelspin or blatant skidding.  The key here would be to start these
    
    turns as early as you can so you maintain your out-and-in routine.
    
    
    
    Turn 6
    
    ------
    Turn 6 is where beginners tend to bite the dust.  Cut your speed to
    
    *below* 50 mph just before the Tunnel terminates.  When the turn
    
    begins, you should try to cut the apex as much as you can, but don't
    
    hit the wall at the right or you may overspin the rear tires.
    
    Sliding's acceptable as long as you don't overdo it.
    
    
    
    Turn 7
    
    ------
    
    The key to taking this turn would be to cut the apex without using
    
    the brakes too much and with a good feel of the gas pedal.  Stay
    
    inside of the track for as much as you can, making sure that your
    
    wheels are touching the slant, *barely* missing the grass.
    
    
    
    Turns 8 and 9
    
    -------------
    
    Keep a smooth racing line at all times.  You can go full speed at
    
    Turn 8, but you may have to do some skidding (be sure to turn before
    
    the turn starts) on Turn 9.  Here, the key is to maintain a high
    
    speed without any speed loss and without too much skidding.  A good
    
    feel of the gas pedal, brake, and wheel will allow you to smoothen
    
    up your racing line for speed in this area.
    
    
    
    Turn 10
    
    -------
    
    Cut your speed to 60 mph just before the turn begins.  Brake at a
    
    straight line for control, and begin turning when you are comfy
    
    enough.  Don't overdo your drift as you may overspin your rear
    
    wheels.  The key here is to drift to the inside of this turn without
    
    any wheelspin.  You may have to speed out during this turn whenever
    
    appropriate for your safety.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11
    
    
    
    This is the hardest of the five tracks in the series because since you
    
    are inside a rear-drive car, any frontal contact with the wall may be
    
    grounds for spinoffs as well as having the competition catch up with
    
    you.  It's important to slow down as early as you can so you'll allow
    
    some room for error.  Try not to take turns too sloppy.  The key in this
    
    track is to test your ability on how efficient you can take the tightest
    
    turns inside a rear-drive car.
    
    
    
    Turn 1
    
    ------
    
    This turn can be taken at full speed.  Just don't get so greedy in the
    
    turn that you forget turning in the second turn.
    
    
    
    Turn 2
    
    ------
    Slow down from the outside.  Then as the turn begins, slide throughout
    
    most of the turn (although you may have to hit the wall, it takes
    
    practice to avoid the wall in this course since Special Stage Route 11
    
    is laden with sharps).  Be sure that you're braking at a straight line
    
    and slowing down ahead of time so that you don't spin out the rear
    
    tires at the middle of the turn.
    
    
    
    Turns 3 and 4
    
    -------------
    It may be *necessary* (but shouldn't be that bad) to slow down, but
    
    don't do too much slowing down as you may risk spinning the rear
    
    wheels blatantly.  Do a slide and you'll be risking hitting a wall
    
    at the left or hitting the gas canisters just before Turns 5 and 6.
    
    The key to undertaking this turn would be to take this turn with the
    
    smoothest possible line without slowing down too much and without
    
    any blatant skidding.  After you finish up this turn, you'll need
    
    to slow down again because you're going to take on Turns 5 and 6
    
    next!
    
    
    
    Turns 5 and 6
    
    -------------
    
    You'll need to be slowing down ahead of time, begin turning (or
    
    sliding if you feel adventurous), and going no more than around 50
    
    mph (IMHO) in order to avoid any possible wall hit.  Just a little
    
    before Turn 6, be careful not to stay on the left because the slant
    
    may drag your car at the right side of the track and may cause some
    
    blatant rear wheel spin if you don't move away from the left in time
    
    so be sure that you swerve right to preserve your rear tires (and to
    
    prepare for Turn 6).  By the time you are about to undertake Turn 6,
    
    you should be sliding (if you want to) and just before Turn 7, you
    
    should have the car straightened up.  Don't accelerate while you
    
    are taking on these twin sharps.
    
    
    
    Turn 7
    
    ------
    
    You need to slow down as early as you can (to avoid blatant rear
    
    wheelspin) and take on this hairpin at speeds less than 40 mph.  In
    
    order to block off chances of spinning out, do not feed in too much
    
    gas during this turn.  This turn demands that you have a good feel
    
    of the brakes and the gas.  If not, then be prepared to get punished
    
    by the competition.
    
    
    
    Turns 8 and 9
    
    -------------
    
    Turn 8 can be taken at full speed.  Turn 9 is a sharp left that you
    
    will have to attempt slowing down ahead of time so that you don't
    
    overspin the rear wheels.  When taking on Turn 9, brake while the
    
    straight is "here", and when the turn starts (and by the time you
    
    drift), you should be able to bring in some control into your car, but
    
    don't overuse the gas in this turn or you may be overspinning the rear
    
    wheels (and perhaps that's a sign that you will spin out).
    
    
    
    Turns 10-13
    
    -----------
    
    A Rear-Drive Car's concern.  You may want to cut your speed to around
    
    80 mph so you don't end up hitting the wall, which may overspin your
    
    tires if you keep the foot on the Gas Pedal.  Try to make sure you're
    
    turning ahead of time and never get into a lousy skid as you may spin
    
    out or perhaps hit the wall and melt your tired down.
    
    
    
    Turns 14 and 15
    
    ---------------
    
    These turns can be taken at full speed, but you need to use Turn 15
    
    and the *slight* straightaway in order to prepare for Turns 16 and 17,
    
    which comes in *just about* immediately, so you will need the car
    
    straightened up in preparation for speed reduction for the next chicane.
    
    
    
    Turns 16 and 17
    
    ---------------
    
    If you used the brake while on a lousy position (from Turns 14 and 15),
    
    then you're in for a spinout.  Keep the car running straight, release
    
    the gas pedal, and at around 40-50 mph, I would take on the first half
    
    of the chicane from the out and in but I have to immediately swerve my
    
    car to the left because I'm in for the next chicane.  By the time I
    
    turn at Turn 18, I should *be able* to have the car straightened up and
    ready to drift at the next medium or sharp left.
    
    
    
    Turn 18
    
    -------
    
    There is no need to brake here (since you've been slowing down at the
    
    chicane), but you'll need to have a good feel of the gas and the brakes
    
    in order to take on this turn without hitting any walls.  Cutting the
    
    apex is acceptable as long as you don't overdo it.  You can slide here
    
    but it's considered dangerous since you risk burning up your tires.
    
    
    
    Turn 19
    
    -------
    
    There's some easy slants just before this painful hairpin.  You may
    
    wish to do the "Cheating Bastard" maneuver by leaning at the outside of
    
    the track and then with zest timing lean to the right *just right* and
    
    pedal to the metal.  You must time your wheel yanks correctly in order
    
    to cheat on this hairpin.  However, you risk having to wear out your
    
    tires and may face a possible spinout by all means, so an alternative
    
    to the Cheating Bastard maneuver (BTW it's Jaz Rignall of PSM Online
    
    who came up with the idea of the Cheating Bastard), brake just a little
    
    before the left slant begins, and when your speed is below 55 mph,
    
    start drifting.  You must be in complete control of your car at all
    
    times because this is where you tend to spin out.  A good feel of the
    
    gas and pedal is required.
    
    
    
    Turns 20 and 21
    
    ---------------
    I would treat these two sharps as one turn.  Time your drift so that
    
    you just *hit* the right wall and that you can have room to straighten
    
    up your car by the time Turn 22 (hairpin) begins.  A bad drift or a
    sloppy undertake would result in the competition catching up with you.
    
    
    
    Turn 22
    
    -------
    Here, the Cheating Bastard maneuver works here, but it's easier to do
    
    the Cheating Bastard maneuver in this hairpin than in Turn 19 because
    
    you don't have to contend with some slants before the hairpin.  This
    
    applies to the first hairpin just before the tunnel.  As the right
    
    hairpin starts, go way outside, and with zest timing, turn right just
    
    right, and pedal to the metal.  Becoming a cheating bastard takes time
    
    because you need the right timing in order to take on the hairpin at
    
    dangerous speeds (Once again, Jaz Rignall of http://www.psmonline.com).
    
    
    
    Turns 23 and 24
    
    ---------------
    
    The easiest way to screw up on this turn would be to brake too late
    
    so that your rear tires will overspin and throw you into a spinout.
    
    The best time to slow down to about 40 mph would be when you see some
    
    sections of Turn 23.  Stay at the left side of the track and brake to
    
    40 mph.  When the turn begins, you need a good feel of the gas and the
    
    steering wheel so you would avoid hitting the walls on these two turns.
    
    You may face a spinout if you hit the wall.  The key here is to keep a
    
    straight racing line while taking on this tight chicane without any
    
    drifting (as this will throw you out of control).
    
    
    
    Turn 25
    
    -------
    
    Keep your speed to around 100 mph at this final turn.  Speed out from
    
    the turn if you are going to get closer to the left wall.  A good feel
    
    of the gas and the pedal is required here.
    
    ========================================================================
    
    MEGASPEED CHAMPIONSHIP
    
    
    
    Number of Tracks: 3
    
    Laps per Track: 2
    
    Required Class License: A-Class
    
    Restriction of Car Type: No restriction on the car you can use.
    
    HOWEVER, you are encouraged to get yourself a heavily-chachinated
    
    Mitsubishi GTO TwinTurbo before entering this course!
    
    Tracks involved: High Speed Ring, Test Course, High Speed Ring Reverse
    
    Pole Position Bonus: 5000 Credits
    
    Finish First in the Track Bonus: 15000 Credits
    
    Series Winner Bonus: 30000 Credits
    
    Car you get for winning the race:  Either the Aston Martin DB7 or the
    
    Toyota Soarer.  Neither of these cars are good by default nor wheels
    
    for beginners.
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    Vestiroth's note: This is the fastest championship in the game.  You're
    
    at a huge disadvantage unless you have a car capable of speeds of AT
    
    LEAST 238 mph, which is faster than a McLaren.  I wish that the McLaren
    
    F1 was here though.  A high-speed car is required without any exceptions.
    
    You MUST follow these procedures before getting inside this race or you
    
    will have to forget dominating the course (!):
    
    
    
    1.  Buy a new Mitsubishi GTO Twinturbo.  I like All-Wheel Drive cars.
    
        You may think that I'm out of this world because I'm telling you
    
        these notes, but hey, I want you to dominate the series as
    
        much as I want you to.
    
    
    2.  Improve your skills at the GT Cup.  Hopefully, you've got a Toyota
    
        Castrol Supra GT or a Subaru Impreza Rally Edition on your garage
    
        to dominate the GT Cup!  Use these cars to earn your dough on the
    
        GT Cup.
    
    
    3.  Try to have as many credits as you can because you're going to do
    
        some expensive tuning at the Ralli Art!
    
    
    4.  Here's what I want you do from this point on (Remember if you can't
    
        afford for these parts earlier on, you can always come back later).
    
        Keep in mind that these are only my recommendations so you should
    
        experience with different parts throughout your gameplay.  I'm
    
        thankful to Sam Davis (sdavis1@mail.wsu.edu) because I'm writing
    
        this FAQ without my Gran Turismo Reference Guide!  Please read his
    
        Menu Translation Guide at GameFAQs.com:
    
    
    
    *  Buy the Sports Muffler
    *  Buy the Sports Brake Kit and Brake Balance Controller
    
    *  Buy any Turbo Kit.  The Level 4 Kit has the most speed boost, but the
    
       greatest Turbo Lag.  This is the only time you'll ever benefit from
    
       the Level 4 Turbo Kit.
    
    *  Buy the Racing Intercooler kit
    
    *  Buy the Racing Support Suspension Kit
    
    *  Buy Hard Stabilizer Kits on both sides of the car
    
    *  Buy Computer Engine Tune-up, Port Polishing, and Engine Balancing
    
    *  Buy Soft Racing Support Tires
    
    *  Buy Racing Support Gearbox, Triple Clutch, Racing Flywheel, and a
    
       Carbon Driveshaft (if applicable)
    
    *  Undergo all stages of Weight Reduction
    
    *  Transform your Mitsubishi GTO Twinturbo into a 240 mph screamer!
    
    
    
    Remember you can read Sam Davis's Gran Turismo Menu Translation Guide
    
    if you need a better description of these at http://www.gamefaqs.com.
    
    
    
    5.  If you followed these procedures, be prepared to snap, crackle, and
    
        pop the competition!
    
    
    6.  BTW I'm basing this information driving an overpsyched, Castrolized
    
        Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo, which is the best car in this series.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    HIGH SPEED RING
    
    
    
    This seems to be an easy course, but unless you've got a Mitsubishi GTO
    
    Twin-Turbo fully tuned and capable of going up to 240 mph and/or
    
    capable of prompt acceleration, you will never finish first.  It's in
    
    the utmost importance that you try not to screw up on any occasion as
    
    speed is what you need.  I'll try to strike a good balance between Speed
    
    and Handling, making sure that you don't spin out and that you don't lose
    
    too much speed on turns that may be deadly.
    
    
    
    Turn 1
    
    ------
    
    Take this turn at full speed.  Be sure at the final stretch of the turn
    
    that you *slightly* slow down so you don't have to worry about hitting
    
    the wall at the right by the time the turn ends.
    
    
    
    Turn 2
    
    ------
    
    You may want to brake as late as possible so that you can skid here at
    
    higher speeds.  Be sure that you are taking this turn out-and-in, and
    
    by the time you leave the turn, you should prepare for Turns 3 and 4
    
    without much trouble.  Have the car straightened.
    
    
    
    Turns 3 and 4
    
    -------------
    
    You may have to do some *blatant* slow down here since these turns are
    
    the most dangerous turns in the track.  I would cut my speed to around
    
    90 mph so I won't be touching the grass or hitting the wall.  Try to
    
    do some rapid gas tapping in this area.  A feel of the gas is required
    
    to ensure control of the Mitsubishi GTO at all costs.
    
    
    
    Turn 5
    
    ------
    
    Provided that you took Turns 3 and 4 without any blatant trouble, this
    
    would be a good place to prepare for Turn 6.  Stay to the right side
    
    of the track, making sure that you *barely* miss the grass at the right
    
    side of the track.  When Turn 6 starts, you should try to slow down in
    
    a straight line and start taking Turn 6 from the outside and into the
    
    inside.
    
    
    
    Turn 6
    
    ------
    
    Provided that you have slowed down to ~120 mph, you can take this turn
    
    without having to release the gas pedal.  Make sure that you speed out
    
    if necessary if you feel that you're going to get closer to the wall
    
    at the right.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    TEST COURSE
    
    
    
    The hardest course in the series because there's bound to be some drones
    
    who show no mercy in the event that you lack Top Speed.  That's why you
    
    need a car capable of speeds of 238 mph to dominate the course.
    
    
    
    Turns 1 and 2
    
    -------------
    
    This is just simple.  You don't need to slow down, but make sure that
    
    you are moving from the outside of the course to the inside of the
    
    course.  Try to cut the apex making sure that your wheels are *just*
    
    missing the grass at the left.  Any wall hitting or grass mowing during
    
    these two turns are grounds for some speed loss, and speed is crucial
    
    to your success here at the Test Course.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    HIGH SPEED RING REVERSE
    
    
    
    I don't know what to say for this one because this is *one* bizarre
    
    course.  You will have to beware of the many *parallel* corners that
    
    this track has to offer.  Basically, you will be going around this ring
    
    in reverse, meaning that some strategies have to be adjusted in order
    
    to block off the competition in this track.
    
    
    
    Turn 1
    
    ------
    
    I found this turn to be the deadliest turn of this track.  If you are
    
    going too fast, that means that you have to slow down ahead of time
    
    *blatantly* in order to avoid contact with the wall, but don't slow
    
    down too early as you will be touching the grass.  I found out that
    
    with some skidding, you should be taking this turn A-OK, but you may
    
    want to take on this turn *according* to your experience.
    
    
    
    Turn 2
    
    ------
    
    Try to use this turn as a preparation to take on Turns 3 and 4.  Stay
    
    on the inside while taking on this turn, making sure you *barely* miss
    
    the grass at the left side of the screen.  By the time you start Turn
    
    3, you should be at a good position to reduce room for error.
    
    
    
    Turns 3 and 4
    
    -------------
    
    As with High Speed Ring, you should be going no faster than ~90 mph
    
    (but you will need to adjust your speed based upon your experience).
    
    Brake ahead of time, cut both turns using out-and-in, and make sure
    
    that you are doing rapid gas tapping often here so you don't end up
    
    hitting the grass or wall.  A good feel of the gas pedal is required.
    
    
    
    Turn 5
    
    ------
    
    Cut your speed to about 110 mph just before the turn starts.  Don't
    
    cut your speed too early as you'll screw up BAD.  As soon as the
    
    turn starts, you should begin sliding (or taking it in a smooth line
    
    if you don't want to risk losing speed) and as soon as the turn
    
    concludes, straighten up the car.
    
    
    
    Turn 6
    
    ------
    
    As opposed to turn 1 on the forward track, this turn can be taken at
    
    full speed providing that you have been able to take this turn ahead
    
    of time, and that you don't end up hitting the wall or grass in any
    
    fashion.
    
    
    
    ========================================================================
    
    COMMERCIAL CAR CHAMPIONSHIP
    
    
    Number of Tracks: 5
    
    Laps per Track: 5
    
    Required Class License: A-Class
    
    Restriction of Car Type: The car that you're in CANNOT use any
    
    enhancement/modification parts, and you cannot make the car racing-
    
    compliant at all.  When you buy a car that you want to throw inside
    
    this course, DO NOT DO ANYTHING TO THIS CAR!!!!!!!  This series will
    
    determine the fastest commercially available car in the world.
    
    Tracks involved: Autumnring-Mini Reverse, Grand Valley East Reverse,
    
    Clubman Stage Route 5 in Reverse, Deep Forest in Reverse,
    
    Special Stage Route 11 (in no particular order, since it's hard for me
    
    to remember)
    
    Pole Position Bonus: 10000 Credits
    
    Finish First in the Track Bonus: 50000 Credits
    
    Series Winner Bonus: 100000 Credits
    
    Car you get for winning the race: You get a Subaru Impreza or a Toyota
    
    Supra RZ for winning.  Although these cars can be upgraded and trans-
    
    formed into racing cars, sell these lemons to either Subaru for the
    
    Impreza or Toyota for the Supra.
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    Vestiroth's note: I hope that you dislike this championship series.  I'm
    
    saying this because you're only allowed to use untamed, unmodified,
    
    normal cars, which JUST PLAIN SUCKS!!!!  I've been reading every Game
    FAQs
    available on line (Please refer to GameFAQs.com and Secrets of the
    
    Sega Sages if you want to know why I'm going to be saying these pet
    
    peeves) and found out that once you master the Dodge Viper GTS, then
    
    you should be doing OK.  Be sure that you're not spinning the rear
    
    wheels as you need every inch of control.  Sadly, PSM Online suggests
    
    that you get the Dodge Viper RT-10, but as a Gran Turismo Player who's
    
    out for more handling than bliss, here's what I want you to REALLY do:
    
    
    
    1.  Buy a red Dodge Viper GTS.  DON'T BUY ANY MODIFICATION PARTS OR
    
        MAKE THIS VIPER RACING-COMPLIANT!  Your next step would be to place
    
        this Viper GTS on your Memory Card by saving it!
    
    
    2.  Improve your skills at the Sunday Cup so you can get used to the
    
        Viper's rather unorthodox control.  I know that the Viper GTS is
    
        heavier than the RT-10, but I found the Viper GTS more forgiving
    
        in terms of stability than the watered-up RT-10.
    
    
    3.  Once you mastered the GTS, then it's time to throw this car on the
    
        Commercial Car championship (provided that you've got your A-Class
    
        License).
    
    
    4.  There are 5 tracks with a grueling 5 laps each track!  Get ready to
    
        wear out your PlayStation...  Remember to take a 15-30 minute rest
    
        for every consecutive 2 hours of play.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    AUTUMN RING MINI REVERSE
    
    
    
    You should be familiar with this course from the Featherweight and
    
    Economy Car challenge.  Since I'm riding on the Dodge Viper, there are
    
    probably some obvious changes to this section.
    
    
    
    Turn 1
    
    ------
    
    Cut your speed to about 80 mph just before the turn starts.  Skid this
    
    lamer and by the time the chicanes begin, you should regain control of
    
    the car.
    
    
    
    Turns 2-5
    
    ---------
    
    Ease yourself throughout this chicane.  Keep your speed around 70 mph to
    
    avoid grass contact.  Try to keep a straight racing line in order to
    
    maintain your top speed.  Use Turn 5 as your cue to Turn 6.
    
    
    
    Turn 6
    
    ------
    
    You should start skidding at Turn 5 as preparation for undertaking this
    
    turn.  I would say you should cut your speed to around 50 mph when you
    
    undertake Turn 5 so you can treat Turns 5 and 6 as one turn.  Don't
    
    bother accelerating until after you finish Turn 6.
    
    
    
    Turn 7
    
    ------
    
    Slow down ahead of time so you can cut the apex of the turn.  Skid this
    
    lamer as much as you can (but keep in mind that you may touch the grass
    
    during the Apex cut).  Right before Turn 8 begins, you should have the
    
    car straightened up so you can drift throughout this turn.
    
    
    
    Turn 8
    
    ------
    Drift this turn at around 50 mph (but no more than 60 mph).  Have your
    
    car straightened up after Turn 7 so you can brake smoothly and in a
    
    straight line to avoid any blatant wheelspin and possibly a spin-out.
    
    
    
    Turn 9
    
    ------
    
    This could be pretty much the worst turn in the track.  You'll need to
    
    slow down to 37 mph just before the turn starts.  Hopefully, you got
    
    the car straightened up after Turn 8 because you need every drop of
    
    control in order to pass this hairpin without error.  Try not to spin
    
    the rear tires as this may result in a blatant spinout.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    GRAND VALLEY EAST REVERSE
    
    
    
    Much bizarre than Grand Valley East, GVE Reverse provides some weird
    
    turns, but as long as you don't overspin your tires during harsh turns,
    you should be doing fine.
    
    
    
    Turns 1 and 2
    
    -------------
    
    The key to taking these two turns is to control your speed without any
    
    blatant slowdown or wheelspin.  A reasonable speed here would be 100
    
    mph (my experimentation here is rather limited, so bear with me) with
    
    some skidding, but you will need to have the car straightened up just
    
    before you take on Turn 3.
    
    
    
    Turn 3
    
    ------
    
    This turn is pretty damn sharp, so it's important that you slow down
    
    to about 80 mph just before the turn starts so you can cut the apex
    of the turn.  You may want to experiment with some sliding here, but
    
    you need to adjust this strategy depending on your experience.
    
    
    
    Turns 4 and 5
    
    -------------
    No blatant slowing down allowed.  Try to maintain high speed without
    
    wheelspin or blatant skidding.  The key here would be to start these
    
    turns as early as you can so you maintain your out-and-in routine.
    
    
    
    Turn 6
    
    ------
    
    Turn 6 is where beginners tend to bite the dust.  Cut your speed to
    
    *below* 50 mph just before the Tunnel terminates.  When the turn
    
    begins, you should try to cut the apex as much as you can, but don't
    
    hit the wall at the right or you may overspin the rear tires.
    
    Sliding's acceptable as long as you don't overdo it.
    
    
    
    Turn 7
    
    ------
    
    The key to taking this turn would be to cut the apex without using
    
    the brakes too much and with a good feel of the gas pedal.  Stay
    
    inside of the track for as much as you can, making sure that your
    
    wheels are touching the slant, *barely* missing the grass.
    
    
    
    Turns 8 and 9
    
    -------------
    
    Keep a smooth racing line at all times.  You can go full speed at
    
    Turn 8, but you may have to do some skidding (be sure to turn before
    
    the turn starts) on Turn 9.  Here, the key is to maintain a high
    
    speed without any speed loss and without too much skidding.  A good
    
    feel of the gas pedal, brake, and wheel will allow you to smoothen
    
    up your racing line for speed in this area.
    
    
    
    Turn 10
    
    -------
    
    Cut your speed to 60 mph just before the turn begins.  Brake at a
    
    straight line for control, and begin turning when you are comfy
    enough.  Don't overdo your drift as you may overspin your rear
    
    wheels.  The key here is to drift to the inside of this turn without
    
    any wheelspin.  You may have to speed out during this turn whenever
    
    appropriate for your safety.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    CLUBMAN STAGE ROUTE 5 REVERSE
    
    
    
    Clubman Stage Route 5 Reverse shouldn't be that tough provided that
    you're an expert driver in Gran Turismo already.  The only concern that
    
    you should be focusing on is Turn 1, which is indeed *weird*.  Here are
    
    some techniques you'll need in order to nail the competition right here:
    
    
    
    Turn 1
    
    ------
    
    The greatest concern in the track.  Go to the left side of the track and
    
    when you see some sections of this turn, move *gently* to the inside of
    
    this turn and provided that you're not going to be hitting the bizarre
    
    wall at the start of the turn (which may overspin the wheels and cause
    
    a spin-off), skid.
    
    
    
    Turn 2
    
    ------
    
    Take this turn out-and-in.  Skid throughout this turn making sure that
    
    you turn as early as you possibly can to avoid hitting the walls.  The
    
    key to taking this turn efficiently is to drift without any early-bird
    
    attempts or any blatant loss in speed.  Keeping a smooth racing line
    
    will result in an increased ratio of speed during this turn.
    
    
    
    Turns 3 and 4
    
    -------------
    
    This Ess can be taken at full speed.  Make sure that you yank the car
    
    just before the turn starts because these turns are rather blind for
    
    beginners.
    
    
    
    Turn 5
    
    ------
    
    Take this turn from the out-and-in, preparing yourself for Turn 6.
    
    Don't slow down too much because this may result in a blatant skid,
    
    something you don't want to do until you reach Turn 6.
    
    
    
    Turn 6
    
    ------
    You can scrape the left wall by turning the car to the right just right
    
    and hug the wall while stepping on the gas but that's risky because you
    
    will burn up the tires and possibly spin the rear wheels.  I would just
    
    skid on this turn (although I may have to hit the wall).  You may have
    
    to adjust your speed depending on your skill.  I would say that 60 mph
    
    is safe to start.
    
    
    
    Turn 7
    
    ------
    Turn gently on this turn, making sure that you are going from the out
    
    and in so you will prepare yourself for the final two turns.  By the
    
    time you start Turn 8, you should be lined up at the left side of the
    
    track.
    
    
    
    Turn 8
    
    ------
    
    The key to undertaking this turn is to cut the apex as much as possible
    
    without any blatant sliding or slowing down.  Under 100 mph and over 90
    
    mph would be reasonable.  A good feel of the gas and wheel is required
    
    in order to avoid any wall contact.
    
    
    
    Turn 9
    
    ------
    
    This final turn can be taken at full speed.  If you skid, then just
    
    make sure that you have the car straightened up before you cross the
    
    finish line, as you will need every drop of speed to blast the enemies
    into smithereens in this track.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    DEEP FOREST REVERSE
    
    
    
    Here comes the grass once again, and it's important that you don't touch
    
    the grass because Commercial Cars tend to lose more control than car
    s
    with psyched up modification parts and Castrol Stickers.  I'm gonna try
    
    to make sure that you don't touch the grass at all costs by mixing a
    
    good blend of speed and handling, but this could be the course that you
    
    may lose if you don't stay under control at all times.
    
    
    
    Turn 1
    
    ------
    
    You can powerslide this sucker providing that you braked the car just
    
    before the turn starts, and controlled the slide during the turn. If
    
    you're not crazy about sliding, then you may want to slow down to 95
    
    mph just before the turn starts.
    
    
    
    Turns 2 and 3
    
    -------------
    
    Turn 2 can be taken at full speed.  However, you will need to slow down
    
    at a straight line when you are about to undertake Turn 3.  I would say
    
    85 mph with some sliding would be reasonable enough to avoid hitting
    
    the wall at the left.
    
    
    
    Turns 4 and 5
    
    -------------
    
    These turns are as close as you'll find with a straightaway, so make
    
    sure that you are keeping a straight racing line to ensure that your
    
    car is running straight and smooth so you can slow down by the time
    
    you see some sections of Turn 6.
    
    
    
    Turn 6
    
    ------
    
    When you see some sections of the turn, you should cut your speed
    
    according to the weight of your car.  Keep in mind that heavier car
    s
    tend to take longer to slow down, so you will need to keep that in
    
    mind.  Cut your speed to 110 mph before the turn starts, and when
    
    Turn 6 begins, release the gas pedal, brake, and rapid-tap the gas.
    
    I would say that you're going to end up going 80 mph sliding for the
    
    most part.
    
    
    
    Turns 7 and 8
    
    -------------
    
    The key to undertaking these turns is to keep a smooth racing line
    
    without any blatant slowdown.  You should try to speed out if you
    
    risk going inside the grass, but you should never try to get into a
    
    blatant slide here.  When you are inside the tunnel, you should be
    at
    a smooth racing line so that you can slow down in preparation for
    
    turns 9 and 10.
    
    
    
    Turns 9 and 10
    
    --------------
    
    Slow down to 60 mph when you are inside the tunnel.  You should be
    
    below 60 mph by the time Turn 9 begins.  You can skid throughout this
    
    turn, but it's rather dangerous because if you land on the grass, then
    
    you'll accidentially spin the rear wheels (causing a possible spinout).
    
    You will need to be running in a straight line by the time you get
    
    inside the tunnel that signals Turn 10.  Again, cut your speed (but
    
    don't slow down too much) while inside the tunnel, and as the tunnel
    
    ends, begin to skid.  Try to use the out-and-in technique and make
    sure that you are not going inside the grass.
    
    
    
    Turns 11-13
    
    -----------
    A smooth racing line will help you set up for the final hairpin at the
    
    final stretch of the track.  Just make sure that you are not undergoing
    
    a blatant skid or any grass mowing during these three turns.
    
    
    
    Turn 14
    -------
    
    Go to the leftmost lane and cut your speed to about 60 mph.  When the
    
    turn starts, lean to the inside of the track, and forget about using
    
    the gas in full until you can get out of the haripin without error.
    
    The key to undertaking this hairpin is with *zest* speed control.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11
    
    
    
    This course is just plain hard.  Nuff said.
    
    
    
    Turn 1
    
    ------
    
    This turn can be taken at full speed.  Just don't get so greedy in the
    
    turn that you forget turning in the second turn.
    
    
    
    Turn 2
    
    ------
    Slow down from the outside.  Then as the turn begins, slide throughout
    
    most of the turn (although you may have to hit the wall, it takes
    
    practice to avoid the wall in this course since Special Stage Route 11
    
    is laden with sharps).  Be sure that you're braking at a straight line
    
    and slowing down ahead of time so that you don't spin out the rear
    
    tires at the middle of the turn.
    
    
    
    Turns 3 and 4
    
    -------------
    
    It may be *necessary* (but shouldn't be that bad) to slow down, but
    
    don't do too much slowing down as you may risk spinning the rear
    
    wheels blatantly.  Do a slide and you'll be risking hitting a wall
    
    at the left or hitting the gas canisters just before Turns 5 and 6.
    
    The key to undertaking this turn would be to take this turn with the
    
    smoothest possible line without slowing down too much and without
    
    any blatant skidding.  After you finish up this turn, you'll need
    
    to slow down again because you're going to take on Turns 5 and 6
    next!
    
    
    
    Turns 5 and 6
    
    -------------
    
    You'll need to be slowing down ahead of time, begin turning (or
    
    sliding if you feel adventurous), and going no more than around 50
    
    mph (IMHO) in order to avoid any possible wall hit.  Just a little
    
    before Turn 6, be careful not to stay on the left because the slant
    
    may drag your car at the right side of the track and may cause some
    
    blatant rear wheel spin if you don't move away from the left in time
    
    so be sure that you swerve right to preserve your rear tires (and to
    
    prepare for Turn 6).  By the time you are about to undertake Turn 6,
    
    you should be sliding (if you want to) and just before Turn 7, you
    
    should have the car straightened up.  Don't accelerate while you
    
    are taking on these twin sharps.
    
    
    
    Turn 7
    
    ------
    
    You need to slow down as early as you can (to avoid blatant rear
    
    wheelspin) and take on this hairpin at speeds less than 40 mph.  In
    
    order to block off chances of spinning out, do not feed in too much
    
    gas during this turn.  This turn demands that you have a good feel
    
    of the brakes and the gas.  If not, then be prepared to get punished
    
    by the competition.
    
    
    
    Turns 8 and 9
    
    -------------
    
    Turn 8 can be taken at full speed.  Turn 9 is a sharp left that you will
    
    have to attempt slowing down ahead of time so that you don't overspin
    
    the rear wheels.  When taking on Turn 9, brake while the straight is
    
    "here", and when the turn starts (and by the time you drift), you should
    
    be able to bring in some control into your car, but don't overuse the
    
    gas in this turn or you may be overspinning the rear wheels (and perhaps
    
    that's a sign that you will spin out).
    
    
    
    Turns 10-13
    
    -----------
    
    A Viper's nightmare.  You may want to cut your speed to around 80
    
    mph so you don't end up hitting the wall, which may overspin your
    
    tires if you keep the foot on the Gas Pedal.  Try to make sure you're
    turning ahead of time and never get into a lousy skid as you may spin
    
    out or perhaps hit the wall and melt your tired down.
    
    
    
    Turns 14 and 15
    
    ---------------
    
    These turns can be taken at full speed, but you need to use Turn 15
    
    and the *slight* straightaway in order to prepare for Turns 16 and 17,
    
    which comes in *just about* immediately, so you will need the car
    
    straightened up in preparation for speed reduction for the next chicane.
    
    
    
    Turns 16 and 17
    
    ---------------
    
    If you used the brake while on a lousy position (from Turns 14 and 15),
    
    then you're in for a spinout.  Keep the car running straight, release
    
    the gas pedal, and at around 40-50 mph, I would take on the first half
    
    of the chicane from the out and in but I have to immediately swerve my
    
    car to the left because I'm in for the next chicane.  By the time I
    
    turn at Turn 18, I should *be able* to have the car straightened up and
    
    ready to drift at the next medium or sharp left.
    
    
    
    Turn 18
    
    -------
    
    There is no need to brake here (since you've been slowing down at the
    
    chicane), but you'll need to have a good feel of the gas and the brakes
    
    in order to take on this turn without hitting any walls.  Cutting the
    
    apex is acceptable as long as you don't overdo it.  You can slide here
    
    but it's considered dangerous since you risk burning up your tires.
    
    
    
    Turn 19
    
    -------
    
    There's some easy slants just before this painful hairpin.  You may
    
    wish to do the "Cheating Bastard" maneuver by leaning at the outside of
    
    the track and then with zest timing lean to the right *just right* and
    
    pedal to the metal.  You must time your wheel yanks correctly in order
    
    to cheat on this hairpin.  However, you risk having to wear out your
    
    tires and may face a possible spinout by all means, so an alternative
    
    to the Cheating Bastard maneuver (BTW it's Jaz Rignall of PSM Online
    
    who came up with the idea of the Cheating Bastard), brake just a little
    
    before the left slant begins, and when your speed is below 55 mph,
    
    start drifting.  You must be in complete control of your car at all
    
    times because this is where you tend to spin out.  A good feel of the
    
    gas and pedal is required.
    
    
    
    Turns 20 and 21
    
    ---------------
    
    I would treat these two sharps as one turn.  Time your drift so that
    
    you just *hit* the right wall and that you can have room to straighten
    up your car by the time Turn 22 (hairpin) begins.  A bad drift or a
    
    sloppy undertake would result in the competition catching up with you.
    
    
    
    Turn 22
    
    -------
    
    Here, the Cheating Bastard maneuver works here, but it's easier to do
    
    the Cheating Bastard maneuver in this hairpin than in Turn 19 because
    
    you don't have to contend with some slants before the hairpin.  This
    
    applies to the first hairpin just before the tunnel.  As the right
    
    hairpin starts, go way outside, and with zest timing, turn right just
    
    right, and pedal to the metal.  Becoming a cheating bastard takes time
    
    because you need the right timing in order to take on the hairpin at
    
    dangerous speeds (Once again, Jaz Rignall of http://www.psmonline.com).
    
    
    
    Turns 23 and 24
    
    ---------------
    
    The easiest way to screw up on this turn would be to brake too late
    
    so that your rear tires will overspin and throw you into a spinout.
    
    The best time to slow down to about 40 mph would be when you see some
    
    sections of Turn 23.  Stay at the left side of the track and brake to
    
    40 mph.  When the turn begins, you need a good feel of the gas and the
    
    steering wheel so you would avoid hitting the walls on these two turns.
    
    You may face a spinout if you hit the wall.  The key here is to keep a
    
    straight racing line while taking on this tight chicane without any
    
    drifting (as this will throw you out of control).
    
    
    
    Turn 25
    
    -------
    
    Keep your speed to around 100 mph at this final turn.  Speed out from
    
    the turn if you are going to get closer to the left wall.  A good feel
    
    of the gas and the pedal is required here.
    
    
    
    ========================================================================
    
    FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
    
    
    
    The purpose of creating Gran Turismo FAQs grouped by License Classes is
    
    to provide help in how to pass the license tests, and how to get first
    
    place in each track and series. This also happens to be one of the
    
    PlayStation games where I've been receiving lots of stupid e-mail about
    
    questions that can be easily answered by myself when I was only 7 years
    
    of age. Before you even e-mail me about Gran Turismo again, you are
    strongly advised to look over this section before e-mailing me.  Most
    of your questions should be answered by just simply looking at this FAQ
    and/or just by looking at this section!
    
    
    
    Q: Is there a code to unlock the 1967 Chevrolet Corvette in the Simulation
    
       Mode of the game?
    
    
    
    A: Hell no. This car is only available at the Arcade Mode of the game.
    
    
    
    Q: How come you don't write any FAQs for the Arcade Mode of the game?
    
    
    
    A: Simple. Because much of the game's replay value is centralized
    
       throughout the Simulation Mode.
    
    
    
    Q: Why do you tell me to use the FWD and AWD cars in any of your GT
    
       FAQs?
    
    
    
    A: They're a lot more stable and more forgiving to drive than Rear
    
       Wheel Cars, which require a lot of respect. My personal favorite
    
       is the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition with AWD, a great prize you
    
       can have for winning the US Versus Japan Championships.
    
    
    
    Q: Why don't you use the Concept Car?
    
    
    
    A: I hate the Concept Car. It's rather unstable and it sucks (IMHO).
    
       However, Adrian Pepper recommends that you try it in one race
    
       although you may hate the unstable nature of the car. You have to
    
       test the car and keep on fiddling the car until you find the right
    
       settings for you. To caution you, never, ever, ever fiddle the
    
       car's settings (you've got to know the car's strengths and weaknesses
    
       first) unless you know what you're doing.  This is my most hated
    
       car from my perspective, and this car isn't Mark Kim-approved
    
       at all.
    
    
    
    Q: Do I NEED to run all stages of Weight Reduction before buying the
    
       Racing Body?
    
    
    
    A: Now this is one interesting question. I usually purchase all stages
    
       of Weight Reduction before buying the Racing Body. However, this is
    
       what has Brian McNulty said to me on a previous message:
     
    
       "I am writing to you about your B, A, and IA strategy guides. I have
    
        noted several times that you make notes telling people to 'Make sure
    
        that you buy all the stages of weight reduction before you buy the
    
        racing modification'.
    
    
        This is not acurate in that your car will weigh the same after the
    
        racing modification regardless of whether or not you buy the weight
    
        reduction or not.
    
    
        I conducted an experiment with Mutsubishi GTO Twin Turbo. The car
    
        brand new weighs 3769 lbs, after three stages of weight reduction,
    
        AND, racing modification it weighed 2713 lbs.
    
    
        I then bought another GTO same color and all weighing 3769 lbs. off
    
        the lot and performed ONLY the racing modification. Both of these
    
        cars *Castrolized* weighed 2713 lbs, one with the racing mod., the
        other without.
    
    
        Try it some time and E-mail me with the results."
    
    
    
    Q: What are the best cars to use for each series?
    
    
    
    A: Here's the lowdown:
    
    
       Sunday Cup: A car that's powerful enough.
     
    
      Clubman Cup: An adequately-powered up Nissan Skyline GTS-R
       GT Cup: A fully-tuned Nissan Skyline GTS-R or a Mitsubishi FTO LM
    
    
       GT World Cup: Same as with the GT Cup
    
    
       Front-Wheel Drive: Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R, Fully Tuned, Racing
    
       Body under your discretion.
    
    
       Rear-Wheel Drive: Dodge Viper or TVR Cerbera. The Viper GTS-R
    
       and Cerbera LM are also strong cars.
    
    
       All-Wheel Drive: Any Nissan Skyline GTS-R
    
    
       Featherweight Championships: Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R, Fully
    
       Tuned.  I personally would try to get a racing body with this one.
    
    
       US Versus Japan: Nissan Skyline GTS-R or Mitsubishi FTO LM
    
    
       Japan Versus UK: Nissan Skyline GTS-R or Mitsubishi FTO LM
    
       US Versus UK: TVR Cerbera LM or Dodge Viper GTS-R
    
    
       Commercial Car Championships: Dodge Viper GTS/RT-10 (Don't do
    
       anything to it) or the Rarity from the IA License Tests.
    
    
       Heavily Tuned Championships: Heavily Tuned Nissan Skyline GT-R
    
       (No Racing Bodies).  This is the hardest race to win on because
    
       you can't bring along your big-daddy racing cars to this one, which
    
       is a sad moment!
    
    
       Megaspeed: Nissan Skyline GT-R V-Spec or Mitsubishi GTO
    
       Twinturbo/MR fully fiddled for speeds of at least 245 mph
    
    
       Grand Valley Endurance: Mitsubishi FTO LM
    
    
       Special Stage Route 11 Endurance: Mitsubishi FTO LM
       Special Stage Route 11 Reverse Endurance: Heavily Tuned Nissan
    
       Skyline GT-R (No Racing Bodies).  This is another difficult race to
    
       win.  Definitely configure your car for handling here.
    
    
    
    Q: I can't get past License A-4!
    
    
    
    A: This is one of the game's toughest tests in the Simulation Mode. The
    
       key in this license test is to corner through bad turns without blatant
    
       slowdown. The Nissan Skyline GT-R VSpec isn't an easy car to use so
    
       this track may require use of Manual Transmission. At the starting line,
       you want to cut through the apex and stay inside
    
       all the way at full speed. Slow down ahead of time from the outside
    
       before the first sharp turn and don't brake too hard. Cut the apex of
    
       the sharp turn and use short taps of the gas to buffer the cornering.
    
       If you have to slow down, just use short taps of the pedal. At the
    
       final major turn, you want to be at the outside and then just use the
    
       gas pedal. Cut the apex. Try to keep a smooth line all the way so
    
       that you don't lose speed from sliding through the turn. This test
    
       takes a lot of getting used to so don't get pissed if you can't pass it
    
       your first couple of times. This test mainly sees how competent of a
    
       driver you are rather than on speed.
    
    
       Be sure to pay attention to my Gran Turismo A-Class License Guide as
    
       it has some rough hypothesis on this cheap test!
    
    
    
    Q: Tell me the eligible cars for the featherweight championships!
    
    
    
    A: The eligible cars are as follows:
    
    
       * Toyota Starlet Glanza V
    
       * Toyota Corolla Levin BZG
    
       * Toyota Sprinter Trueno BZG
    
       * Toyota AE86 Corolla Levin GT-APEX
    
       * Toyota AE86 Sprinter Trueno GT-APEX
    
       * Mitsubishi FTO 1994 GR
    
       * Mitsubishi FTO 1994 GPX
    
       * Mitsubishi FTO GPX
    
       * Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R
    
       * Mitsubishi Mirage Asti RX
    
       * Mitsubishi Mirage 1992 Cyborg R
    
       * Acura Integra GS-R
    
       * Acura Integra Type R
    
       * Honda Civic Sedan
    
       * Honda Civic Racer
    
       * Honda Civic 3-Door
    
       * Honda Civic Del Sol S
    
       * Honda Civic Del Sol Si
    
       * Honda Civic 1991 CR-X Si
    
       * Honda Civic 1993 3-Door
    
       * Honda Civic 1993 Sedan
    
       * Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster 1989 Normal
    
       * Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster 1990 V-Special
    
       * Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster 1992 S-Special
    
       * Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster Normal
    
       * Miata Eunos Roadster V-Special
    
       * Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster S-Special
    
       * Mazda Demio GL-X
    
       * Mazda Demio GL
    
       * Mazda Demio LX G-Package
    
       * Mazda Demio A-Spec.
    
    
       All cars (with the exception of the Demio A-Spec) are shown on your
    
       GT Manual and Instruction Book.
    
    
    
    Q: I can't get past License Test B-3!!!
    
    
    
    A: It's time for the real fight. This test is possibly the toughest test
    
       among the B-Class License Tests. Since the Honda Civic Del Sol
    
       doesn't have lively acceleration and excellent speed, your best bet is
    
       to stay at the right side of the track and try to slow down ahead of
    
       time. Don't use the brakes since you may blatantly slow down. Use
    
       short taps of the Gas to level around the apex and make sure that
    
       you keep a smooth driving line so that you don't lose too much speed.
    
       I highly recommend using the Manual Transmission for this track.
    
    
    
    Q: I CAN'T PASS A SINGLE IA-LICENSE TEST!!!
    
    
    
    A: All of these IA-Class License Tests are set on the Time Trials,
    
       requiring you to utilize just about everything you learned from the
    
       B and A Class Events. If for any reason you can't master any of the
    
       IA-License Tests, then here are the solutions:
     
    
       1. Try attempting on all of the first seven License Tests. If
    
          for any reason you can't pass any of the seven license
    
          tests, then just exit out of the IA License Tests and save
    
          your progress to your Memory Card.
     
    
       2. The best way to know how to use the Dodge Viper GTS
    
          Coupe is to throw the Dodge Viper GTS Coupe on the
    
          Commercial Car Championships. Buy a Viper GTS Coupe
    
          and don't do anything to it. Not only this is a great way
    
          to get used to the Viper GTS Coupe, but it's also a great
    
          way to earn some cold hard cash.
    
    
       3. Try to buy a TVR Griffith and don't do anything to it. Test
    
          the TVR Griffith through the "freelance" Time Trial Runs
    
          and see how good you are with the Griffith. You may
    
          need to practice with the TVR through the Sunday Cup a
    
          few times to get used to it.
    
    
       4. I personally would try to get used to a car with at least
    
          500 Horsepower. There are plenty of Racing Models that
    
          has lots of horses under the hood. Also, try to get used
    
          to a fully-tuned, racing modified Nissan Skyline GT-R or a
    
          Mitsubishi GTO TwinTurbo/MR.
    
    
       5. I personally would participate in any of these A-Class
    
          Series: All International Competition Series, GT Cup, and
    
          the Commecial Car Series. Also, try to use a Rear-Drive
    
          Racing Car so that you can get used to the Rear-Drive
    
          Cars a lot better.
    
    
    
    Q: Please tell me what the cheats are.
    
    
    
    A: I'll make this clear: THERE ARE NO CHEAT CODES IN GRAN TURISMO!!!!
    
       Sony did a good job creating a game that has NO CHEAT CODES
    
       whatsoever. Cheat codes ONLY RUIN REPLAY VALUE so be it. PLEASE DO
    
       NOT BEG ME FOR ANY MORE GRAN TURISMO/GRAN TURISMO 2 CHEAT CODES
    
       THROUGH E-MAIL ANYMORE!!! I'm getting sick and tired of
    
       anybody begging me for any cheat codes!!!! If you EVEN DARE
    
       ask me for any cheat codes for Gran Turismo or Gran Turismo 2,
    
       then I will assume you spamming me.
    
    
    
    Q: What do you mean by "Castrolizing" the car?
    
    
    
    A: I use the term "Castrolize" as a classification when you tune up
    
       your car to the maximum possible levels.  This means maxing-out the
    
       brakes, gearshaft, horsepower, and all other attributes of the car.
    
       I'll leave the decision between weight reduction and racing body up
    
       to you, though.
    
    
    
    Q: When are you going to create an FAQ for Gran Turismo 2 for the Play
    
       Station?
    
    
    
    A: Definitely not.  I was overall disappointed with the sequel.
    
    
    
    ========================================================================
    
    THE DO'S AND DONT'S
    
    
    
    Again, this FAQ is for use only in the following sites:
    
    * Mark Kim's Website: http://home.comcast.net/~markkim31
    * GameFAQs http://www.gamefaqs.com
    
    
    
    
    If you find this FAQ is AT ANY OTHER SITE OTHER THAN THE LISTED ABOVE,
    
    THEN IT IS AN ILLEGAL COPY.  Please notify and/or warn me about this
    
    as soon as you can.  Thank you.
    
    
    
    In addition, only myself (Mark Kim, Vesther Fauransy) and Gamers.COM
    
    (http://www.gamers.com, Joel, please notify me of any address changes
    
    if you are reading this) are the ONLY ones who can HTMLize this file
    
    (with bug busts and grammar changes permitted).
    
    
    
    Why?  Because these sites are the only ones that keep all original work
    
    updated and up-to-date.
    
    
    
    You can always get the latest version of this FAQ at GameFAQs since I
    always put the latest version of my works right there first.
    
    
    
    
    GameFAQs does a good job keeping the files up-to-date at all times and
    is regarded as the most visited "stable" for FAQ-related walkthroughs,
    
    original work, and the like.
    
    
    
    Rules:
    
    
    
    * DO NOT place this file in your web site directly.  Only Joel Downs,
      GameFAQs, and myself have exclusive rights to this file.
    
    
    
    * If you are planning to link to any of the sites I have
    
      mentioned on this reminder, then you are to be advised that
    
      your linking rights are heavily limited as foretold on the
    
      webmaster's fine prints (depending on where you plan to make
    
      your link to).  If I'm too vague on this, then please visit
    
      the following URL to see why more and more webmasters are
    
      restricting links:
    
    
      = http://www.templetons.com/brad/linkright.html (Brad Templeton's
    
        Linking Rights Essay).
    
    
    ========================================================================
    
    REFERENCES OF THIS FAQ
    
    
    
    NO GT FAQ can be complete without giving "hard credit" for those who
    
    helped me out while I was still green on this game.  These people/sites
    
    are:
    
    
    
    *  Jaz Rignall (http://www.psmonline.com)
    
    *  GameFAQs.com (http://www.gamefaqs.com)
    
    *  Mousse Lee
    
    *  Mystery Rhee (http://mit.edu/mystery/www/gtfaq.txt)
    
    *  Sam Davis
    
    *  Fukomoto Atsushi (http://www.imasy.or.jp/~fukumoto/gt/)
    
    *  Secrets of the Sega Sages (http://www.segasages.com)
    
    *  Imagine Games Network (http://www.imaginegames.com)
    
    
    
    ========================================================================
    
    SUGGESTING SUGGESTIONS AND OTHER TRALALA
    
    
    
    Sending UCE to any of the mailboxes that I have is not tolerated.
    Period.  I report any incidence of spamming by checking the header on
    
    where you originated the message at and then report the incidence to
    the server you originated your message at (which is more likely to get
    
    you in deep trouble) or I can just slam you by sending complaints to
    
    the following: The server you originated the message at, to your
    
    provider, or possibly the Free-Mail Service that you use.  Don't spam
    
    me.  It's not worth it.
    
    In addition, I WILL _NO LONGER_ TOLERATE ANY E-MAIL ASKING ME FOR ANY
    
    CHEATS COMPATIBLE FOR GRAN TURISMO.  If you even dare ask me for any
    
    cheat codes for GT, then I will assume that you are spamming.
    
    
    See http://spam.abuse.net to see why it's bad.
    
    
    
    ========================================================================
    
    SOME RANTS
    
    After having to winder around the International A Class License tests,
    I managed to get my IA-Class License and saved this progress on my
    
    Memory Card.  This is good because I don't want to go through the
    trouble of having to get my license once again.  It may be hard to get
    
    your IA License but once you get it, then it's worth the effort of
    
    getting it.
    
    
    
    When I read one of GameFan's magazines (Commercial Magazines now suck
    
    these days, now that you can get hardcore strategies on the Internet
    
    for free), I've realized that there is NO CHEAT CODES listed for Gran
    
    Turismo.  Be it.  There is no cheat codes for Gran Turismo.  Sony will
    
    not create any cheat codes for any game that they might publish or
    
    develop and never will.  Cheat Codes only spoil replay value, and that's
    
    the bottom line!
    
    
    
    ========================================================================
    
    ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
    
    
    
    *  Jaz Rignall for being the standard example of Gran Turismo Domination
    
       and being the wiz in Gran Turismo.  Read his Gran Turismo Guide at
    
       http://www.psmonline.com.
    
    
    *  Sony and Polyphony Digital for creating the best PlayStation Game in
    
       the market ever yet.
    
    
    *  Toyota, Honda, Acura, Nissan, Mitsubishi, Mazda, Subaru, Chrysler,
    
       General Motors, TVR, and Aston Martin for permitting Sony to portray
    
       their cars in Gran Turismo.
    
    
    *  Fukomoto Atsushi, Sam Davis, Mousse Lee, and Mystery Rhee for being
    
       one of the many first FAQ Authors to produce a Gran Turismo FAQ.
    
    
    *  Secrets of the Sega Sages for secrets regarding about winning the
    
       Commercial Car Race.
    *  Imagine Games Network for accepting Sega Sages and GameFAQs.com as
    
       IGN Affiliates.
    *  Tigeraid (John Culbert) for using my Gran Turismo Documents as a basis
    
       for creating his own compendium.
    
    
      Joel Downs for creating HTMLized versions of my Gran Turismo Documents
    
       and for days of e-mail communication.
    
    
    *  GameFAQs for being the largest stable of original, fresh work.
    
    
    *  Chris MacDonald/Kao Megura for being the first 5MB FAQ Author.
    
    
    
    ** END OF DOCUMENT **
    
    
    
    Unpublished Work (tm) and (c) by Mark Kim.  All Rights Reserved
    
    Gran Turismo: (tm) and (c) by Sony Computer Entertainment.  Developed
    
    by Polyphony Digital.  All the cars, images, their likelinesses, and
    
    other real-life car-related events are (tm) and (c) of their respective
    
    owners.