Gran Turismo

                B-Class License Winning Strategies Guide

          Sony Computer Entertainment/Polyphony Digital for the

                       Sony PlayStation 1 Console

WARNING: This guide will ONLY work for the American versions of the game

                          Compiled by Mark Kim
                             Final Version
                 Date of Final Assembly: March 27, 2005

Copyright Information

---------------------

Unpublished work trademarked (tm) and copyrighted (c) by Mark Kim.

All Rights Reserved.



WARNING: This document is for use in the following websites only:

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Gran Turismo is developed by Polyphony Digital under license by Sony
 Computer
Entertainment, Inc.  This game is copyrighted 1997, 1998 Sony
 Computer
Entertainment.  All Rights Reserved.  The cars, images, and
 all cars'
likeliness are registered trademarks and copyrights of its
 respective owners.
All Rights Reserved.  This FAQ was created by Mark
 Kim in respect to Sony,
Polyphony Digital, Mazda, Honda, Acura, Toyota,
 Mitsubishi, Aston Martin,
Chevrolet, Nissan, TVR, Dodge, and Subaru
 Properties, as I have no
intention of infringement on copyright on any
 of this work.



========================================================================

GENERAL INFORMATION



Make: Gran Turismo

Developer: Polyphony Digital

Publisher: Sony Computer Entertainment

Release Date: First Quarter 1998

ESRB Classification: E for Everyone, Suitable for All Ages

Genre: Racing

Platform: Sony PlayStation Type 1

MSRP: Sold as Greatest Hits for Low Price if still available

Recommended Controllers: Sony Analog Dual-Shock Controller

Features: Memory Card Save.  Each save requires in between 1-5 blocks.



========================================================================

HISTORY OF THIS FAQ



March 27, 2005: This is the final edition of this FAQ as I will no longer

update this for any reason.  Sorry.



========================================================================
CONTENTS OF THIS FAQ



*  Newsflash

*  My recommendations

*  Castrolization of the Cars

*  What is a B Class License?

*  Attacking the B-Class Examinations

   =  Starting and Stopping using a Mazda Demio

   =  Starting and Stopping using a Mitsubishi GTO Twinturbo

   =  Cornering Deep Forest's first hairpin with a Honda Civic Del Sol

   =  Cornering Deep Forest's first hairpin with a Nissan Silvia

   =  Cornering Deep Forest's first hairpin with a Mitsubishi GTO

   =  Handling the Ess at High Speed Ring with a Mitsubishi FTO

   =  Handling the Ess at High Speed Ring with a Nissan Silvia

   =  Attack the High Speed Ring (Final Examination)

*  Sunday Cup

*  Front-Engine, Front Drive Car Championship

*  Front-Engine, Rear Drive Car Championship

*  All Wheel Drive Car Championship

*  Featherweight Car Championship

*  The Do's and Dont's

*  Some Rants

*  Resources and Stuff

*  Acknowledgements

*  One Final Warning




========================================================================

NEWSFLASH



***AN IMPORTANT RANT FROM THE FAQ AUTHOR***



AS YOU SHOULD HAVE NOTICED FROM MY PREVIOUS WORKS, I WILL _NOT_ BE

ACCEPTING ANY E-MAILS FROM ANY WEBMASTER WHO SEEKS TO PLACE THIS FILE

ON THEIR OWN WEBSITE REGARDLESS OF THE CAUSE.  THIS IS BECAUSE THERE

ARE TOO MANY SITES THAT _STILL_ HAS THE OUTDATED VERSION OF MY WORKS

AND I REALLY HATE TO SEE IT LURKING AROUND THE INTERNET.  THE REASON
WHY I HAVE TO RESTRICT THE AMOUNT OF WEBSITES THAT CAN MIRROR MY WORKS

IS BECAUSE I WANT TO KEEP MY WORKS CURRENT AND UP-TO-DATE.  ANY MORE

E-MAILS REQUESTING PERMISSION TO MIRROR THIS FILE _WILL_ BE FILTERED.

THE ONLY SITES THAT HAVE MY SEAL OF APPROVAL TO MIRROR MY WORKS ARE

THE SITES LISTED IN THE COPYRIGHT INFORMATION IN THE BEGINNING OF

EVERY OF MY WORKS.



IF FOR ANY REASON YOU _DO_ MIRROR ANY OF MY WORKS ON YOUR OWN WEBSITE

WITHOUT MY SEAL OF APPROVAL, INSTANT LEGAL ACTION WILL BE TAKEN

IMMEDIATELY.  I APPRECIATE YOUR COOPERATION IN THIS MATTER AND AGAIN,

THE ANSWER WILL _ALWAYS_ BE NO IF FOR ANY REASON IF YOU WANT TO PLACE

THIS FILE INSIDE YOUR WEBSITE REGARDLESS OF THE CAUSE AND WHETHER THE

CONTENT FROM ANY OF MY WORKS IS EITHER GOOD OR BAD.



THIS HAS BEEN MY POLICY EVER SINCE I HAVE STARTED TO RESTRICT THE

AMOUNT OF SITES THAT ARE PERMITTED TO MIRROR MY WORKS AND IT WILL

ALWAYS BE.



Note: This notice is derived on Brett "Nemesis" Franklin's Crazy Taxi

FAQ for the Sega Dreamcast although there has been some variations to

make this one more severe and a bit more formal. Also, I will repeat

this near the end of the document.

Always check http://www.gamefaqs.com for the latest version of this
FAQ.  Like I said, this is the final update of the FAQ's life as I have
declared an EOL on this FAQ, so there will be no more updates!!!

Sorry.

This document, like all Video Game FAQs on the Internet, must be

viewed in a monotype font or the alignment will not be correct.  If

the alignment isn't correct for any reason, then please follow these

procedures:



1.  On Netscape Communicator, click on Edit, then Preferences.

2.  Click on Fonts at the Appearance Section

3.  At the Fixed Width Font, select Courier New, and select size 10

    point font.

4.  If you see this sample bulk of writing aligned correctly, please

    proceed:



1234567890

**********



It is strongly advisable that you *do* view this document through

the DOS Application Edit.COM or through the Apple Text Viewer SimpleText

for alignment purposes.  If you are planning to view this through

the Windows Interface, then you are highly advised to open up WordPad

and then open up the Text File.  Set the font face to Courier New and

set the font size to 10.


========================================================================

RECOMMENDATIONS



1.  When you start the game under fresh vanilla, you will start with

    10,000 credits and no licenses for racing participation.  First,

    purchase a Toyota MA70 Supra (if you're hungry for power) or a used

    Honda Prelude (if you are hungry for some control).  Participate on

    the spot race to polish up your skills (since you don't have a

    license as I speak), then once your skills polish up, go get your

    B-License.



2.  Get your B License, throw either your MA70 Supra or Honda Prelude

    on the Sunday Cup.  You may not be able to Pole-Position on any of

    the three courses, but you should be able to win 2 out of the 3

    courses.  I would try to win the Sunday Cup 2 times preferrably

    using the Honda Prelude or MA70 Supra before going for a Nissan

    Skyline GT-R V Spec (http://www.psmonline.com).  Sell your Mazda

    Demios that you earn from winning the Sunday Cup back to Mazda,

    sell the now-lemon first car you have back to its original dealer,

    and use the dough to tune up your car.  IF YOU ARE A CAREFUL DRIVER

    WITH THE MA70 SUPRA, THEN YOU MAY BE ABLE TO DOMINATE THE RACE AND

    EARN A TOTAL OF 28,500 CREDITS.



3.  Later on, you may want to get the Mitsubishi FTO, and a new Toyota

    Supra (http://www.psmonline.com), but I would try to experiment

    a good challenge with a Mitsubishi Eclipse, a Subaru Impreza, and
    an Acura Integra Type R.  While you might not like the idea of this,
    you definitely should get to know the car's personality since Gran
    Turismo isn't your average racing game.


4.  Keep winning the Sunday Cup until you have enough money to tune up

    your cars reserved for use with the All Wheel Drive, Front-Drive,

    Front-Engine and Rear Drive, and Featherweight Car championships.

    Continue to sell all the Mazda Demios back to Mazda for some cold

    hard cash.



5.  Use the special-purpose cars for the special events, and with the

    right car and "Oomph", you should gain an unfair advantage against

    the competition.



6.  Having gained the skills you need for the Clubman Cup, and all

    other A-Class Races, it's time to get your A-Class License right

    after placing first on all B-Class Championships.  As a practical

    rule, you always save your game on the memory card before going

    on to participate in another championship.



7.  There's bound to be restrictions on the car that you're allowed to

    use on the Special Event Championships, so keep that in mind.  In

    the featherweight car championships, I'll try to pin-point the cars

    that are eligible for the Featherweight Car Championship by the time

    you're reading the section covering these tactics.



8.  Gran Turismo is the most realistic racing game up to date, so I

    recommend that you just enjoy the game.  Although you may get pissed

    just because the computer races unfairly, you should try to discover

    new techniques or/and routines to improve your skills.  Having fun

    while playing Gran Turismo is the most important part that I'm asking

    of you.


9.  I highly recommend that you go to http://www.psmonline.com and check
    out Jaz Rignall's Gran Turismo Guide.


========================================================================

CASTROLIZATION OF THE CARS



When I first created this document about 2 years ago, I felt that if

you modify the cars to the teeth, then the cars would definitely be

unbeatable.  I was wrong.  Because each cars have its own strengths

and weaknesses, beefing the cars up to maximum strength varies from

car to car.  For example, a Viper GTS Coupe can't go up to NA Level

3 but starts out with a lot of horsepower and torque when you first

buy it.  On the other hand, some of the better cars in the game (i.e.

Nissan Skyline GT-R VSpec) _can_ be beefed up to the teeth with the

highest level modification parts available in the game.  Please

be warned that some cars may have higher prices as far as mod parts

are concerned.



Usually, cars perform better when they use maximum-strength modification

parts, but some cars perform better without the brute force they need.

Some of the Japanese Cars (i.e. Nissan Skyline GT-R VSpec) cannot perform

well unless you've placed a maximum-strength mod part or two.  That is

why learning the tracks and winning them all is as important as fully

tuning your cars to the teeth.



Unless you are a real mechanic, you should never fiddle with some of the

settings because you can either make a car unstable, stiff, or even

worse, unforgiving to use.  That is why you need to think twice before

even adjusting some of the car's properties (i.e. Suspension) before

even attempting this risk.  That is why some cars perform better when

fully Castrolized than the others.



Castrolizing your car involves tuning up your car with the following

Tune-Ups:



* Muffler and Air Filter

  = Racing Muffler and Air Filter

* Brakes

  = Sports Brakes

  = Brake Balance Controller

* Engine Tuning

  = Tuned ROM

  = Port Polishing

  = Engine Balancing

  = Bore and Stroke-Up (Increasing Displacement)

* For Turbo Cars

  = Turbo Kit Level 4

  = Racing High-Capacity Intercooler

* For Normal Aspirated Cars

  = Normal Aspiration Tuneup Kit Level 3 (This applies ONLY to some cars)

* Transmission

  = Racing Support Gearbox

  = Triple-Plate Clutch

  = Racing Flywheel

  = Carbon Driveshaft (only applies to certain cars)

* Suspension

  = Racing Support Suspension

  = Any Stabilizers (Remember overstiffening your car's suspension will

    equate to lousy driving)

* Tires

  = Soft/Soft Racing Tires

* Others

  = Weight Reduction All Stages (All stages of Weight Reduction MUST be

    performed in order

  = Racing Body Modification



Well, that's all I can say for now!!!



========================================================================

THE VIRTUE OF THE B-CLASS LICENSE



WARNING: All licenses _MUST_ be obtained from lowest to highest.  You

must earn the B-Class License first, and then A-Class.  You MUST have

the A-Class License with you before taking the IA-Class License Tests.



A B-Class License means that you've mastered the very basics of Gran

Turismo Racing, and that you're eligible to participate on the easiest

courses, if not, the even more grueling special events that restrict

the use of a car with a certain drivetrain, or even a racing event that

require you to use a featherweight car (no weight reductions allowed!).

Although you can only participate in only 5 races once you get a B-Class

license, you're on your way to earning more money and to polish up your

skills on the world of Gran Turismo.  Holding a B-Class License, you

should be able to do the following according to Fukumoto Atsushi:



-  Being able to Start and Stop a car

-  Taking out corners as smooth as Rebecca Romijn's legs

-  Being able to take out bloody S-Curves

-  Avoiding any possible course-outs



And here are the races that you are now able to participate provided

that you have won the B-Class License:



*  The GT League:

   - Sunday Cup

*  Special Events:

   - Front-engine, Front Drive Car Championship

   - Front-engine, Rear Drive Car Championship

   - All Wheel Drive Car Championship

   - Featherweight Car Championship



========================================================================

B-CLASS LICENSE TEST EXAMINATIONS



Index of tests:



B-1:  Starting and Stopping using a Mazda Demio

B-2:  Starting and Stopping using a Mitsubishi GTO Twinturbo

B-3:  Cornering Deep Forest's first hairpin with a Honda Civic Del Sol

B-4:  Cornering Deep Forest's first hairpin with a Nissan Silvia

B-5:  Cornering Deep Forest's first hairpin with a Mitsubishi GTO

B-6:  Handling the Ess at High Speed Ring with a Mitsubishi FTO

B-7:  Handling the Ess at High Speed Ring with a Nissan Silvia

B-8:  Attack the High Speed Ring (Final Examination)



Note:  In order to take B-8, you must pass the first seven tests first.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

B-1: STARTING AND STOPPING PART 1

Test Car: Mazda Demio

Time Limit: 36"000

Prerequsite: None

Parts of the Test's Areas:  The first 1000 Meters of the Test Course.

------------------------------------------------------------------------



Before you learn how to corner, you must learn how to start and stop a

car, right?  Well, this is the first test that you should take.  In

order to pass the test with the least possible time, I strongly

recommend that you use Manual Transmission.  Since the Mazda Demio's

rather light, don't brake too early or you may fail the test.  Don't

brake too late or you will touch beyond the finish line.  As you brake,

try to keep the foot off the pedal and try downshifting so that you can

stop at the finish line without drama.  To summarize (Sorry for the

repetitiveness, but it's necessary to do so if you want to get your

B-License in a jiffy), it's accelerate, brake, and come to a complete

stop at the Finish Line.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

B-2: STARTING AND STOPPING PART 2

Test Car: Mitsubishi GTO Twinturbo

Time Limit: 27"000

Prerequsite: None

Parts of the Test's Areas:  The first 1000 Meters of the Test Course.

------------------------------------------------------------------------



You will have to accelerate, brake, and come to a complete stop at the

finish line just like the first test.  This is a lot harder than Part 1

of the same test because the Mitsubishi GTO Twinturbo is much of a lard-

mobile.  Again, use Manual Transmission.  As you pass the 900 Mark, you

may have to allow 100M of error so that you can confiscate the amount

of fat the GTO has.  Again, keep your foot off the gas while braking,

and downshift as you cut your speed to land at the finish line.  I would

acclerate, and a *little* after the 900M sign dissipates at the top of

the screen, I would remove my foot from the gas while braking almost

simultaneously, and I would downshift to 1, giving some room for error.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

B-3: BASIC CORNERING, PART 1

Test Car: Honda Civic Del Sol

Time Limit: 30"000

Prerequsite: None

Parts of the Test's Areas:  From Starting Line, into the first hairpin,

and just a little before the pre-forest straight ends at Deep Forest.

------------------------------------------------------------------------



You have to accelerate, corner the first hairpin at Deep Forest, and

make your way into the finish line.  Course-out is grounds for immediate

failure of the test.  IMHO this is the hardest of the B-Class Tests.

Don't brake too blatantly since the Honda Civic Del Sol is much of a

feathermobile.  The ideal speed to take on the first hairpin at the Deep

Forest is an average of 65 mph.  Try to keep the racing line as smooth

as you can.  Cut the apex from out-and-in, stay low throughout the turn,

and fast-out after the turn.  If all of your wheels touches the grass,

then you will fail the course.  A good feel of the gas and the pedal

is required.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

B-4: BASIC CORNERING, PART 2

Test Car: Nissan Silvia

Time Limit: 26"000

Prerequsite: None

Parts of the Test's Areas:  From Starting Line, into the first hairpin,

and just a little before the pre-forest straight ends at Deep Forest.

------------------------------------------------------------------------



You have to accelerate, corner the first hairpin at Deep Forest, and

make your way into the finish line.  Course-out is grounds for immediate

failure of the test.  This is a little bit more forgiving (to me) than

Test B-3 because the Silvia has more speed than the lame Del Sol.

Unless you can brake a little bit earlier from Turn 1, you'll be finding

yourself wandering around outside the course in no time.  The key to

handling Turn 1 of Deep Forest using a Nissan Silvia (240SX) is to

approach, brake in a straight line, cut the apex (No courseouts, though),

and get out accelerating.  Stay low, and try to rapid-tap during the turn

to maintain your speed.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

B-5: BASIC CORNERING, PART 3

Test Car: Mitsubishi GTO Twinturbo

Time Limit: 25"000

Prerequsite: None

Parts of the Test's Areas:  From Starting Line, into the first hairpin,

and just a little before the pre-forest straight ends at Deep Forest.

------------------------------------------------------------------------



You have to accelerate, corner the first hairpin at Deep Forest, and

make your way into the finish line.  Course-out is grounds for immediate

failure of the test.  Face it.  I hate this test because you're in the

wheel of a high-weight Mitsubishi GTO (3000 GT).  You may need to allow

more time with this lardmobile in order to keep your speed under 67mph

(my experimentation's been limited) at Deep Forest's first turn.  Cut

the apex, and don't accelerate until after the turn.  Start the turn too

late and you'll course-out.  Rapid-tapping throughout the turn helps

too, as long as you don't course-out while cutting.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

B-6: CORNERING HIGH SPEED RING'S ESS PART 1

Test Car: Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R

Time Limit: 27"000

Prerequisite: None

Parts of the Test's Areas:  Turns 3 and 4 of the High Speed Ring.

------------------------------------------------------------------------



A really tough test because you're now asked to handle an Ess Curve for

the first time.  Since the Mitsubishi FTO is a lightweight car, don't

slow down too much, and possibly take advantage of its weight and front

drivetrain.  The Ideal speed to undertaking these turns is an average of

75 mph.  I found Turn 4 to be deadlier than the third one at High Speed

Ring.  Try to stay low on both of these turns, and stay centered as Turn

3 Terminates.  It's important that you do not skid (instead, use rapid

tap of the gas to control the speed, and fast-out as Turn 4 terminates

provided that you're not going to course-out) on these turns and try to

use the FTO's weight and front-drive to your own advantage.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

B-7: CORNERING HIGH SPEED RING'S ESS PART 2

Test Car: Nissan Silvia (240SX)

Time Limit: 26"000

Prerequisite: None

Parts of the Test's Areas:  Turns 3 and 4 of the High Speed Ring.

------------------------------------------------------------------------



A really tough test because now you're in the wheel of a Nissan Silvia

instead of an FTO, and you need to make sure that you are keeping up a

smooth racing line if you want to pass the test.  The Ideal speed to

undertaking these turns is an average of 75 mph.  I found Turn 4 to be

deadlier than the third one at High Speed Ring.  Try to stay low on both

of these turns, and stay centered as Turn 3 Terminates.  Don't overskid

or you'll slow down too much, and possibly fail the test.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

B-8: ATTACK HIGH SPEED RING (B-CLASS EXAMINATION)

Test Car: Mazda Eunos (MX-3 Miata)

Time Limit: 1'22"00

Prerequisite: Must complete the first seven B-Class License Tests

first.

------------------------------------------------------------------------



You have to complete the first seven B-Class License Tests before you

can attack the High Speed Ring.  Hopefully you're familiar with some

cornering, and if you have too much trouble beating this track within

the time limit, no worries.  I'm going to make sure that you keep a

smooth racing line at all costs now.



Turn 1

------

This turn can be taken at full speed but try to stay low as you can,

and don't slide (since you're in a rear-wheel drive car).  Be careful

with the final stretch of the turn since it's rather sharp.  While

staying low on this turn, make sure that you are not touching the grass.



Turn 2

------

Take this turn at no faster than 95 mph (slower if you think you're

going to course-out).  Apex Cutting on Turn 2 is mandatory.  The more

time you allow to prepare for a turn, the greater your chances of

staying low with this turn are.  Start the turn from the outside, cut

the apex, and stay low throughout the turn, and fast-out, making sure

that you do not touch the grass at the right.



Turns 3 and 4

-------------

This ess should be taken at 75 mph with some apex-cutting, though I

prefer that you stay centered on these turns.  Try to keep a smooth

line at Turns 3 and 4 since that's the area where you tend to do some

blatant sliding.  You can stay low at Turn 3 but you have to make sure

that you're centered by the time you start Turn 4.  While trying to

stay low, make sure that you are not coursing-out.



Turn 5

------

Use this turn to set up for Turn 6.  Stay low on this turn and be

prepared to slow down before taking Turn 6.



Turn 6

------

Take this turn at under 95 mph, but no slower than 90 mph.  Again, Apex

Cutting will help at Turn 6.  Stay low for as much as you can and fast-

out as you exit this turn.  Now cross the finish line and hope that you

were fast enough!



========================================================================

SUNDAY CUP

Number of Tracks: 3

Laps per Track: 2

Required Class License: B-Class

Restriction of Car Type: None

Tracks involved: Autumnring-Mini, High Speed Ring, Grand Valley East

Pole Position Bonus: 1500 Credits

Finish First in the Track Bonus: 3000 Credits

Series Winner Bonus: 15000 Credits

Car you get for winning the race: Mazda Demio A-Spec

Recommended Car: Honda Prelude VTEC (Beginner), Toyota MA70 Supra 3.0

Turbo Limited (Advanced)

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Vestiroth's note: The Sunday Cup should be your very first stop right

after you get the B-Class License.  However, your main concern would

have to be the first hairpin turns on the Autumn Ring-Mini and the Grand

Valley East Courses.  In order to keep your car under control (and to

make sure that you win AT LEAST 2 out of 3 courses), I've came up with

these pet peeves (remember you have the freedom of choice when it comes

to choosing your first car, so this is just a suggestion):



1.  When you start the game under plain vanilla, your first order of

    operation would be to either get inside Toyota to purchase an MA70

    Supra or a used Honda Prelude.  Polish up your skills at any Spot

    Race Track then once you got your skills polished, get your B-Class

    License.



2.  Once you won the B-Class License, then this is where your first

    stand should take place.  If you can get all gold on the B-Class

    License Tests (which I never did), that's a good thing because

    you get the Concept Car for showing that you DID have some real

    driving simulator experience before Gran Turismo.



3.  I'll base this strategy as if you were driving a MA70 Supra.  You

    should be able to win 2 out of 3 tracks with the MA70 Supra, and

    probably all the way with the Honda Prelude.  Remember to change

    your tactics if you're not riding the MA70 Supra.  However, in the

    Grand Valley Speedway, I'm gonna assume that you are riding on a

    Mitsubishi Eclipse or FTO.  On the High Speed Ring, I'm gonna

    use the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition.



4.  When riding a rear-drive car, don't overyank the car to one

    direction as taking on a hairpin too hot may get you into a spin

    out, so make sure that you really ease up whenever taking on turns

    like the hairpin at Autumn Ring Mini.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

AUTUMN RING-MINI



Although Autumn-Mini isn't that bad, you'll have to learn how to take on

the first two turns in order to place first on this track.  The first

turn is where beginners and rear-drive cars tend to have the greatest

amount of trouble at.  I'm gonna strike a good blend of handling and

speed without having to burn and melt the front wheels (or overspin the

rear wheels if you are on a rear-drive car) so you will finish this

course without excessive tire damage to your car.



Turn 1

------

Hoo boy.  A hairpin.  A bad way to start a race.  Cut your speed ahead

of time (so you don't risk spinning the rear tires or get inside the

grass) and take the turn from the out and in.  You shouldn't be going

any faster than ~30 mph on this killer hairpin.  After this hairpin,

there's a straight, but don't let that straight fool you as you have

yet another hairpin to chew on.



Turn 2

------

You should be at the right side of the track by the time you are

*just* about to enter this turn.  I would say that about ~50 mph to

~60 mph with some *controlled* skidding would allow you to pass this

turn without having to deal with the friggin' autumn grass.  By the

time you reach Turn 3, you should have the car straightened up and

ready to skid without difficulties from then.



Turn 3

------

Skid this sharp terror from the outside and back into the inside.  I

would say roughly ~60 mph with some *slight* skidding would be safe

on this turn.  At turn 4, you'll need to be in complete control of

your car because I found Turn 4 much more dangerous than Turn 3 since

you have to deal with those darn chicanes as well. =P



Turn 4

------

Just as the turn starts, try to cut your speed to below 60 mph so you

can take on this turn without skidding, without spinning out, and

without having to mow the grass, which can cut your speed to nothing.

This is possibly a very dangerous turn because you're starting the

turn from a *slight* right slant which turns into a harsh right all

of a sudden.  If you made through this turn all right, then you should

have no problem with the next 4 turns, which are deadly chicanes.



Turns 5-9

---------

Try to keep a smooth and straight racing line as much as you can

during the dual chicanes.  You can cut the apex although you risk

mowing the grass this way.  My estimates would be ~60 mph with some

controlled braking and steering, although my experimentation's been

limited here, since I don't own a MA70 Supra anymore as I'm writing

this FAQ.  You shouldn't be going any faster than 70 mph here as

you may risk going inside the grass if you go too fast.



Turn 10

-------

Here it is!!  The final stretch of the track.  You will be carrying

a better deal of speed and control if you can start the turn from

the outside and lean into the inside.  You should also try to slow

down ahead of time so you can skid throughout all of the turn without

error.  You shouldn't be going any faster than about 77 mph with some

zest skidding so that you can avoid the grass at the left, assuring

that you get the car straightened in preparation of the next lap.

Be careful when taking on the first turn at the next lap because

you'll have to enter this turn at high speeds, so be prepared to cut

your speed to ~30 mph as you are about to take the first turn once

again (I'm saying this because I don't want you to spin out!  OK?!).



------------------------------------------------------------------------

HIGH SPEED RING



The High Speed Ring represents a good opportunity to increase your habits

of racing the car in a smooth line.  This is good because you're going

to be trasnferring all the skills you learn at the Sunday Cup to other

circuits that has this track involved.  As a general rule, make sure

that you don't hit the grass or walls too often as you will suffer from

the damage.  On this course, I'm gonna be using the Mitsubishi FTO

Limited Edition.



Turn 1

------

Take this turn at full speed.  Be sure at the final stretch of the turn

that you *slightly* slow down so you don't have to worry about hitting

the wall at the right by the time the turn ends.



Turn 2

------

You may want to brake as late as possible so that you can skid here at

higher speeds.  Be sure that you are taking this turn out-and-in, and

by the time you leave the turn, you should prepare for Turns 3 and 4

without much trouble.  Have the car straightened.



Turns 3 and 4

-------------

You may have to do some *blatant* slow down here since these turns are

the most dangerous turns in the track.  I would cut my speed to around

90 mph so I won't be touching the grass or hitting the wall.  Try to

do some rapid gas tapping in this area.  A feel of the gas is required

to ensure control of the Mitsubishi FTO at all costs.



Turn 5

------

Provided that you took Turns 3 and 4 without any blatant trouble, this

would be a good place to prepare for Turn 6.  Stay to the right side

of the track, making sure that you *barely* miss the grass at the right

side of the track.  When Turn 6 starts, you should try to slow down in

a straight line and start taking Turn 6 from the outside and into the

inside.



Turn 6

------

Provided that you have slowed down to ~120 mph, you can take this turn

without having to release the gas pedal.  Make sure that you speed out

if necessary if you feel that you're going to get closer to the wall

at the right.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

GRAND VALLEY EAST



Grand Valley East is the hardest of the three courses in the Sunday Cup

because there's some tricky corners and weird passages to master, and

beginners will need some assistance to get away from this track without

much damage.  Since you need to strike a good balance of speed and

handling on this track, I will assume that you are inside the wheel of

a B-Class Front-Drive Car.



Turn 1

------

Use this turn to prepare yourself for Turn 2, which is a hairpin.  You

need to adjust the speed of your car depending on the weight so you

can pass the hairpin without touching the dirt or grass, both hazards

can melt down your front tires and cause frontal axle damage.  It's

important that you take all turns without too much damage to the front

axle and the front tires.



Turn 2

------

You need to be going no faster than 50 mph, taking the turn from the

outside and into the inside, and you need to do some slight drifting

to avoid possible grass contact.  Slow down as much as you can before

the hairpin and begin turning as soon as the turn starts.  Sliding is

acceptable as long as you don't go too fast.



Turns 3 and 4

-------------

Turn 3 can be taken at full speed.  Turn 4 is where you will need to

be doing some drifting.  The key to taking on Turn 4 is to drift by

applying a tiny bit of brake, and floor to the metal with zest timing

without any blatant loss of speed.  You should be able to regain control

of the car in an instant because the front wheels should allow you to

straighten up the car faster than rear-drive cars.  The key to drifting

with a Front-Drive car is with respect to the front axle, as the front

axle and the front wheels does not like to be abused.



Turn 5

------

You should be going no faster than 70 mph and cutting the apex (barely

touching the right slant) in order to avoid any possible grass contact

at the left side of the screen.  Brake just before the turn starts, and

as the turn starts, drift to the right, and floor the gas.  Don't bother

straightening up your car until after the turn.  Don't overaccelerate

because you will melt your front tires if you do.



Turn 6

------

The key here is to brake at the last minute, then take this turn by

using the out-and-in maneuver without touching the wall at the left

(causing extreme frontal tire melting and frontal axle damage) or

touching the grass at the right.  Brake to 50 mph and when you cut

your speed to 50 mph, begin taking on this turn.  You need to counter

bank the car in order to maximize speed, and make sure that you are

not poised to hit the wall near the tunnel before you counterbank

because contact with the tunnel wall before the tunnel may damage

your car's frontal axle and wear down your front tires.



Turns 7 and 8

-------------

The key here on taking on this turn is to make sure that you are not

doing any blatant slowing down and that you are drifting as little as

possible to reduce frontal tire melt and frontal axle damage.  I would

say that 85 mph on both turns would be OK with some skidding, although

this may vary depending on your own personalized experience.



Turns 9 and 10

--------------

Use the out-and-in, brake to drift cornering style to take on Turn 9.

You shouldn't be going any faster than 73 mph on Turn 9 because it's

rather sharp.  Don't bother to accelerate on this turn unless you are

confident enough that you won't be touching the grass at the left side

of the screen.  Turn 10 can be taken at full speed provided that you

are turning ahead of time and that you have not touched the grass at

Turn 9.



========================================================================

FRONT-ENGINE, FRONT-DRIVE CAR CHAMPIONSHIP

Number of Tracks: 3

Laps per Track: 2

Required Class License: B-Class

Restriction of Car Type: Front-Engine, Front-Wheel Driven Cars Only.

Tracks involved: Deep Forest Backwards, Grand Valley East, Special Stage

Route 11

Pole Position Bonus: 1500 Credits

Finish First in the Track Bonus: 5000 Credits

Series Winner Bonus: 10000 Credits

Car you get for winning the race: Either a Honda CRX EF-8 SiR or a

Toyota Celica SSII (http://www.psmonline.com)

Recommended Car:  Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R, Mitsubishi Eclipse

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Vestiroth's note:  The special events that you're eligible for is a lot

harder than the Sunday Cup because there's bound to be some smart foes

waiting for you from this point on.  You will be facing computer cars

that tend to take sharp turns at in-your-face speeds, and you do need to

tune up your car as much as you can to dominate this course.  Although

the B-Class Special Events are the hardest among all the B-Class Races,

there's seems to be a good pointer to ensure that you give yourself the

unfair advantage you need.  Here's what to do:



1.  Buy either a Mitsubishi Eclipse or a Mitsubishi FTO (The FTO should

    be a B-Class car as described on the manual).  Save either these two

    on your Memory Card.



2.  Now, I'm assuming that you *do* have either a Nissan Skyline or a

    Toyota Supra in your garage.  Use the leftover dough to tune up your

    Nissan Skyline or Toyota Supra just right so you can retain your

    competitive edge.  Just keep on winning the Sunday Cup until you

    have enough credits to tune up your Eclipse or FTO (because I'm

    going to throw you inside some expensive tuning-up before going

    inside the Front-Engine, Front-Drive Championships).  BTW just sell

    your Mazda Demios back to Mazda as you earn your credits.



3.  You'll want the following for the Eclipse:



    *  Muffler and Air Filter

    *  Highest Stage Turbine Kit

    *  Racing Support Intercooler

    *  Sports Braking Kit and Brake Balance Controller

    *  Racing Support Suspension, and Hard Stabilizers for both Front

       and Back

    *  Computer, Port Polishing, and Engine Balancing

    *  Soft Racing Tires on Front and Back

    *  Racing Gears, Triple Clutch, Carbon Driveshaft, Racing Flywheel

    *  All Three Stages of Weight Reduction and Racing Modification



4.  This may be possible if you are driving an FTO:



    *  Muffler and Air Filter

    *  Highest Stage Natural Aspiration Tuneup

    *  Sports Braking Kit and Brake Balance Controller

    *  Racing Support Suspension, and Hard Stabilizers for both Front

       and Back

    *  Computer, Port Polishing, and Engine Balancing

    *  Soft Racing Tires on Front and Back

    *  Racing Gears, Triple Clutch, Carbon Driveshaft, Racing Flywheel

    *  All Three Stages of Weight Reduction and Racing Modification



5.  Test these cars by dominating the Sunday Cup, save your progress on

    your Memory Card.  You should be ready for the Front-Wheel Drive
    Car Championships.  This is the hardest B-Class Series of all.

6.  I'm gonna assume that you're gonna use the Mitsubishi Eclipse in this

    matter.  Over 300 HP is what you may need to dominate this course.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

DEEP FOREST REVERSE



The key in this track is to make full use of your Front Wheel Drivetrain

without any blatant slowing down or without any unnecessary skidding

that can otherwise slow down your car.  You need to take some turns at

higher speeds than what is written here, so make sure that you are at

least trying to keep a smooth racing line as much as possible.  The

competition gets bloody here, so make sure that you don't overhit the

walls, overtouch the grass, or overslow your vehicle.



Turn 1

------

You can powerslide this sucker providing that you braked the car just

before the turn starts, and controlled the slide during the turn. If

you're not crazy about sliding, then you may want to slow down to 95

mph just before the turn starts.



Turns 2 and 3

-------------

Turn 2 can be taken at full speed.  However, you will need to slow down

at a straight line when you are about to undertake Turn 3.  I would say

85 mph with some sliding would be reasonable enough to avoid hitting

the wall at the left.



Turns 4 and 5

-------------

These turns are as close as you'll find with a straightaway, so make

sure that you are keeping a straight racing line to ensure that your

car is running straight and smooth so you can slow down by the time

you see some sections of Turn 6.



Turn 6

------

When you see some sections of the turn, you should cut your speed

according to the weight of your car.  Keep in mind that heavier cars

tend to take longer to slow down, so you will need to keep that in

mind.  Cut your speed to 110 mph before the turn starts, and when

Turn 6 begins, release the gas pedal, brake, and rapid-tap the gas.

I would say that you're going to end up going 80 mph sliding for the

most part.



Turns 7 and 8

-------------

The key to undertaking these turns is to keep a smooth racing line

without any blatant slowdown.  You should try to speed out if you

risk going inside the grass, but you should never try to get into a

blatant slide here.  When you are inside the tunnel, you should be

at a smooth racing line so that you can slow down in preparation for

turns 9 and 10.



Turns 9 and 10

--------------

Slow down to 60 mph when you are inside the tunnel.  You should be

below 60 mph by the time Turn 9 begins.  You can skid throughout this

turn, but it's rather dangerous because if you land on the grass, then

you'll accidentially spin the rear wheels (causing a possible spinout).

You will need to be running in a straight line by the time you get

inside the tunnel that signals Turn 10.  Again, cut your speed (but

don't slow down too much) while inside the tunnel, and as the tunnel

ends, begin to skid.  Try to use the out-and-in technique and make

sure that you are not going inside the grass.



Turns 11-13

-----------

A smooth racing line will help you set up for the final hairpin at the

final stretch of the track.  Just make sure that you are not undergoing

a blatant skid or any grass mowing during these three turns.



Turn 14

-------

Go to the leftmost lane and cut your speed to about 60 mph.  When the

turn starts, lean to the inside of the track, and forget about using

the gas in full until you can get out of the haripin without error.

The key to undertaking this hairpin is with *zest* speed control.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

GRAND VALLEY EAST



You should be familiar with this track from the Sunday Cup.  However,

the computer tends to drive more smoothly than they did in the Sunday

Cup, so it's important that you do not slow down blatantly in order to

keep up with the competition and that you take on the corners without

burning up the front tires and to finish this track without much damage.

Some of the turns which you may have to be ludicrous includes the final

stretch of the track and the turns just before the kaye left.



Turn 1

------

Use this turn to prepare yourself for Turn 2, which is a hairpin.  You

need to adjust the speed of your car depending on the weight so you

can pass the hairpin without touching the dirt or grass, both hazards

can melt down your front tires and cause frontal axle damage.  It's

important that you take all turns without too much damage to the front

axle and the front tires.



Turn 2

------

You need to be going no faster than 50 mph, taking the turn from the

outside and into the inside, and you need to do some slight drifting

to avoid possible grass contact.  Slow down as much as you can before

the hairpin and begin turning as soon as the turn starts.  Sliding is

acceptable as long as you don't go too fast.



Turns 3 and 4

-------------

Turn 3 can be taken at full speed.  Turn 4 is where you will need to

be doing some drifting.  The key to taking on Turn 4 is to drift by

applying a tiny bit of brake, and floor to the metal with zest timing

without any blatant loss of speed.  You should be able to regain control

of the car in an instant because the front wheels should allow you to

straighten up the car faster than rear-drive cars.  The key to drifting

with a Front-Drive car is with respect to the front axle, as the front

axle and the front wheels does not like to be abused.



Turn 5

------

You should be going no faster than 70 mph and cutting the apex (barely

touching the right slant) in order to avoid any possible grass contact

at the left side of the screen.  Brake just before the turn starts, and

as the turn starts, drift to the right, and floor the gas.  Don't bother

straightening up your car until after the turn.  Don't overaccelerate

because you will melt your front tires if you do.



Turn 6

------

The key here is to brake at the last minute, then take this turn by

using the out-and-in maneuver without touching the wall at the left

(causing extreme frontal tire melting and frontal axle damage) or

touching the grass at the right.  Brake to 50 mph and when you cut

your speed to 50 mph, begin taking on this turn.  You need to counter

bank the car in order to maximize speed, and make sure that you are

not poised to hit the wall near the tunnel before you counterbank

because contact with the tunnel wall before the tunnel may damage

your car's frontal axle and wear down your front tires.



Turns 7 and 8

-------------

The key here on taking on this turn is to make sure that you are not

doing any blatant slowing down and that you are drifting as little as

possible to reduce frontal tire melt and frontal axle damage.  I would

say that 85 mph on both turns would be OK with some skidding, although

this may vary depending on your own personalized experience.



Turns 9 and 10

--------------

Use the out-and-in, brake to drift cornering style to take on Turn 9.

You shouldn't be going any faster than 73 mph on Turn 9 because it's

rather sharp.  Don't bother to accelerate on this turn unless you are

confident enough that you won't be touching the grass at the left side

of the screen.  Turn 10 can be taken at full speed provided that you

are turning ahead of time and that you have not touched the grass at

Turn 9.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11



If there was a good reason why only Front-Engine, Front-Drive cars are

allowed in this race, then this could be it.  Lots of blind turns, weird

corridors, and bizarre passages makes this track something to worry about

in the B-Class races.  In order to corner efficiently, you will need to

brake as late as you can so you can take on the corner with some sliding

and right after you finish the slide, you can counterbank the car with

ease.  You may end up losing to your foes your first couple of times in

this track because this track tests your ability to be a competent

driver rather than on speed.



Turn 1

------

This turn can be taken at full speed.  Just don't get so greedy in the

turn that you forget turning in the second turn.



Turn 2

------

Slow down from the outside.  Then as the turn begins, slide throughout

most of the turn (although you may have to hit the wall, it takes

practice to avoid the wall in this course since Special Stage Route 11

is laden with sharps).  To ensure a well-timed slide, brake as late as

possible *hard*, then turn and counterbank.  Timing must be perfect in

order to drift this turn efficiently.



Turns 3 and 4

-------------

It may be *necessary* (but shouldn't be that bad) to slow down, but

if you need to slow down for any reason, here's what to do:  Take

Turn 3 at full speed and immediately release the gas pedal, then

press the gas pedal once again.  You should miss out the gas cans

just before Turn 5.  If you hit the gas canisters, then no big deal.

You need not worry about overspinning the rear tires as opposed to

the rear-drive cars (though you will lose speed and risk having the

competition catch up with you).  Cutting the apex is ok, but it may

be a risk for beginners (because you may get into an embarrasing

speed loss if you hit a wall).



Turns 5 and 6

-------------

You'll need to be braking at the last minute, begin turning (or

sliding if you feel adventurous), and going no more than around 50

mph (IMHO) in order to avoid any possible wall hit.  Just a little

before Turn 6, be careful not to stay on the left because the slant

may drag your car at the right side of the track and may cause some

blatant speed loss if you don't move away from the left in time so be

sure that you swerve right to preserve your front axle and tires (and

to prepare for Turn 6).  By the time you are about to undertake Turn

6, you should be sliding (if you want to) and just before Turn 7, you

should have the car straightened up.  Don't accelerate while you are

taking on these twin sharps.



Turn 7

------

You need to brake as late as you can (but not too late because then

you risk melting the front tires), sliding, and undertaking this

hairpin at speeds less than 40 mph.  In order to maintain a good

amount of speed, do not feed in too much gas during this turn.  This

turn demands that you have a good feel of the brakes and the gas.  If

not, then be prepared to get punished by the competition.  Try not to

get into a sloppy slide as you lose speed if you happen to slide too

long.



Turns 8 and 9

-------------

Turn 8 can be taken at full speed.  Turn 9 is a sharp left so it's

important that you brake as the turn begins, then start sliding, and

counterbank so you don't burn up the front axle.  When taking on Turn

9, brake just before the turn begins, and when the turn starts (and by

the time you drift), you should be able to bring in some control into

your car, but don't overuse the gas while drifting because you risk

burning up the front tires and breaking up the front axle.



Turns 10-13

-----------

I hope you hate this one.  You may want to cut your speed to around 80

mph so you don't end up hitting the wall, which may overspin your

tires if you keep the foot on the Gas Pedal.  Try to make sure you're

turning ahead of time and never get into a lousy skid as you may cause

blatant tire melting at the front wheels and perhaps disable the front
axle in no time.


Turns 14 and 15

---------------

These turns can be taken at full speed, but you need to use Turn 15

and the *slight* straightaway in order to prepare for Turns 16 and 17,

which comes in *just about* immediately, so you will need the car

straightened up in preparation for speed reduction for the next chicane.



Turns 16 and 17

---------------

Brake just before the turn begins, and as the turn begins, try to cut

the apex (but don't hit the wall since you will be melting the front

tires and breaking the front axle of your car).  You should be drifting

and you can force your car to drift to the left in Turn 17 immediately

after Turn 16 with zest timing (and if you are good enough).  Scrapping

the walls (or frontal contact) may cause a blatant loss in speed,

causing severe front tire wear and front axle malfunction.



Turn 18

-------

There is no need to brake here (since you've been slowing down at the

chicane), but you'll need to have a good feel of the gas and the brakes

in order to take on this turn without hitting any walls.  Cutting the

apex is acceptable as long as you don't overdo it.  The key to taking

on this turn is to drift without having to use the brake, since you may

lose speed due to extreme tire melting and front-axle breaking.



Turn 19

-------

There's some easy slants just before this painful hairpin.  You may

wish to do the "Cheating Bastard" maneuver by leaning at the outside of

the track and then with zest timing lean to the right *just right* and

pedal to the metal.  You must time your wheel yanks correctly in order

to cheat on this hairpin.  However, you risk having to wear out your

front tires and damage your front wheel axle, so an alternative to the

Cheating Bastard maneuver (BTW it's Jaz Rignall of PSM Online who came

up with the idea of the Cheating Bastard), brake at the last minute

before the hairpin starts, and as the haripin begins, yank the wheel

to the right, release the gas pedal, and brake *hard* at the same time.

You should be able to avoid the wall at the left.  You shouldn't be

going any faster than 45 mph here.  Start the slide too early and you

will be hitting the right wall, possibly causing frontal tire melting

and frontal axle damage.



Turns 20 and 21

---------------

I would treat these two sharps as one turn.  Time your drift so that

you just *hit* the right wall and that you can have room to straighten

up your car by the time Turn 22 (hairpin) begins.  A bad drift or a

sloppy undertake would result in the competition catching up with you.



Turn 22

-------

Here, the Cheating Bastard maneuver works here, but it's easier to do

the Cheating Bastard maneuver in this hairpin than in Turn 19 because

you don't have to contend with some slants before the hairpin.  This

applies to the first hairpin just before the tunnel.  As the right

hairpin starts, go way outside, and with zest timing, turn right just

right, and pedal to the metal.  Becoming a cheating bastard takes time

because you need the right timing in order to take on the hairpin at

dangerous speeds (Once again, Jaz Rignall of http://www.psmonline.com).



Turns 23 and 24

---------------

The easiest way to screw up on this turn would be to brake too late

so that your front axle gets damaged and your front tires melts up.

The best time to slow down to about 40 mph would be when you see some

sections of Turn 23.  Stay at the left side of the track and brake to

40 mph.  When the turn begins, you need a good feel of the gas and the

steering wheel so you would avoid hitting the walls on these two turns.

You may face a spinout if you hit the wall.  The key here is to keep a

straight racing line while taking on this tight chicane without any

drifting (as you burn up your Front Tires and damage your front axle

this way).



Turn 25

-------

Keep your speed to around 100 mph at this final turn.  Speed out from

the turn if you are going to get closer to the left wall.  A good feel

of the gas and the pedal is required here.



========================================================================

FRONT-ENGINE, REAR WHEEL DRIVE CAR CHAMPIONSHIP

Number of Tracks: 3

Laps per Track: 2

Required Class License: B-Class

Restriction of Car Type: Front-Engine, Rear Wheel Drive Cars only, no

Acura NSXs or Toyota MR2s allowed.

Tracks involved: Grand Valley East Reverse, Deep Forest, Grand Valley

Speedway Reverse (Mousse Lee at mousse@pixi.com)

Pole Position Bonus: 1500 Credits

Finish First in the Track Bonus: 5000 Credits

Series Winner Bonus: 10000 Credits

Car you get for winning the race: You get the Nissan Qs 1800 or a Nissan

Sil 80 for winning the championship (http://www.psmonline.com)

Recommended Cars:  TVR Cerbera Limited Edition, Dodge Viper GTS-R, Dodge

Viper GTS, Toyota Castrol Supra GT

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Vestiroth's note: IMHO Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive Car Championships

will be too impossible to complete at the beginning of the game so I

strongly recommend that you stay away from this series until you either

get your IA-Class License or right after you get your TVR Cerbera

Limited Edition.  You will be facing a powerful Toyota Supra RZ in this

track, and the truth about the series' difficulty is that none of the

cars will let you pass!  Anyway, after you get a power car, these cars

are nothing.  Here's what you have to do before you get inside this

series:



1.  Get your A-Class License.  You really need to learn the aesthetics
    of A-Class-Style driving before you even go any further.  Some races
    are much harder than it seems.


2.  Beat the Clubman Cup 10 times, buy the Subaru Impreza Rally Edition

    racing car, save the car on your Memory Card, and beat the Gran

    Turismo Cup 10 times.  Be sure that you give your PlayStation a

    rest for 30 minutes for every 2 hours of consecutive gameplay.  And

    make sure as you beat the Clubman Cup 10 times, sell those lemoney

    Chevy Camaro 30th Anniversary cars back to Chevrolet.



3.  After beating the Gran Turismo Cup 10 times (making sure that you're

    selling those lemoney Toyota Chaser Limited Edition cars back to

    Toyota), buy a new Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo, and load up your GTO

    Twin Turbo with the following parts:



    *  Muffler and Air Filter

    *  Stage 4 Turbine Kit

    *  Racing Support Intercooler

    *  Sports Braking Kit and Brake Balance Controller

    *  Racing Support Suspension, and Hard Stabilizers for both Front

       and Back

    *  Computer, Port Polishing, and Engine Balancing

    *  Soft Racing Tires on Front and Back

    *  Racing Gears, Triple Clutch, Carbon Driveshaft, Racing Flywheel

    *  All Three Stages of Weight Reduction and Racing Modification



4.  Save your GTO on your Memory Card, and practice your GTO skills at

    the Megaspeed Cup Championships.  Win the Megaspeed Cup Championship

    10 times, (making sure you sell any lemons back to its original

    dealer), save, and then use the GTO to blow the competition away at

    the Japanese and American Car Championships.



5.  After winning the Japanese and American Car Championship for the

    first time, buy a Nissan Skyline, and boost it up heavily so that

    it goes up to 941 hp and that you make the Skyline a racing car.

    Use the Skyline to get the Dodge Viper GTS-R for your second win

    (You get a Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition for winning the series

    the first time).



6.  If you want, then you can go on to participate in this race with

    the Dodge Viper GTS-R.  But if you want to dominate the series

    with Pole Positioning and first place all the way, then I strongly

    recommend to go on.  Save the Dodge Viper GTS-R and the Mitsubishi

    FTO Limited Edition on your Memory Card, rest your PlayStation,

    throw in your Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition into the Japanese and

    British Car Championships, win this series two consecutive times,

    sell the Honda Civic Del Sol Limited Edition back to Honda and save

    the TVR Cerbera Limited Edition on your Memory Card.



7.  Rest your PlayStation, and pit the TVR Cerbera Limited Edition to

    melt the competition away!



8.  This guide will assume that you are in the wheel of the TVR Cerbera

    Limited Edition.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

GRAND VALLEY EAST REVERSE



Front-Engine, Rear Drive Cars seems to have the upper hand in this track

but unless you learn how to tame your FR car, then you will be spinning

out pretty often.  Make sure that you treat your FR car with lots of

respect by slowing down on turns ahead of time.  Always take it easy when

trying to cut the apex or you may be risking having the competition win

this track.



Turns 1 and 2

-------------

The key to taking these two turns is to control your speed without any

blatant slowdown or wheelspin.  A reasonable speed here would be 100

mph (my experimentation here is rather limited, so bear with me) with

some skidding, but you will need to have the car straightened up just

before you take on Turn 3.



Turn 3

------

This turn is pretty damn sharp, so it's important that you slow down

to about 80 mph just before the turn starts so you can cut the apex

of the turn.  You may want to experiment with some sliding here, but

you need to adjust this strategy depending on your experience.



Turns 4 and 5

-------------

No blatant slowing down allowed.  Try to maintain high speed without

wheelspin or blatant skidding.  The key here would be to start these

turns as early as you can so you maintain your out-and-in routine.



Turn 6

------

Turn 6 is where beginners tend to bite the dust.  Cut your speed to

*below* 50 mph just before the Tunnel terminates.  When the turn

begins, you should try to cut the apex as much as you can, but don't

hit the wall at the right or you may overspin the rear tires.

Sliding's acceptable as long as you don't overdo it.



Turn 7

------

The key to taking this turn would be to cut the apex without using

the brakes too much and with a good feel of the gas pedal.  Stay

inside of the track for as much as you can, making sure that your

wheels are touching the slant, *barely* missing the grass.



Turns 8 and 9

-------------

Keep a smooth racing line at all times.  You can go full speed at

Turn 8, but you may have to do some skidding (be sure to turn before

the turn starts) on Turn 9.  Here, the key is to maintain a high

speed without any speed loss and without too much skidding.  A good

feel of the gas pedal, brake, and wheel will allow you to smoothen

up your racing line for speed in this area.



Turn 10

-------

Cut your speed to 60 mph just before the turn begins.  Brake at a

straight line for control, and begin turning when you are comfy

enough.  Don't overdo your drift as you may overspin your rear

wheels.  The key here is to drift to the inside of this turn without

any wheelspin.  You may have to speed out during this turn whenever

appropriate for your safety.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

DEEP FOREST



I think Deep Forest is horrible for the following reason:  GRASS AND

EVEN MORE GRASS EVERYWHERE!!!!!!!!  It's important that you don't wind

up going in the grass as you will lose speed while taking a turn, so

make sure that you do your very best to avoid the grass at all costs.



Turn 1

------

Hairpin Starts aren't my idea of a start of the race.  Cut your speed

during the two hairpin signs and if you don't want to skid, don't go any

faster than 60 mph, but if you want to skid, then you may want to say

about 70 mph, although my experimentation is rather limited.



Turns 2&3

---------

Keep you car under control, and definitely stay off the grass at the

left and right side of the screen because that's when your worries

begin.  Turn 3 is more sarcastic than Turn 2, so you may have to slow

down at either Turn 2 or 3 to keep your car under control.  However,

you will have to worry about Turn 4 because Turn 4 is a rather *sharp*

left that you have to chew on, and you got a killer tunnel coming up

just before Turn 5.



Turn 4

------

Cut your speed *immediately* after you exit Turn 3, but don't slant

the wheels to the left because you'll hit the wall and touch the grass

so make sure that you're slanting the front wheels to the right as you

prepare for this turn.  You need to be going no faster than 65 mph and

you should try to drift as much as you can in order to avoid any grass

contact and possibly a hit right at the tunnel entrance wall, which

causes serious delays.



Turn 5

------

You should be ready to drift from this corner as soon as you are about

to exit the tunnel.  Cut your speed *as you leave the tunnel* and drift

on this turn.  I would say that 72 mph would be reasonable but you can

take this turn at higher speeds, although I don't recommend taking this

turn too hot.



Turn 6 & 7

----------

You will have yet another sharp to deal with so don't go overconfident

with the easy right.  Try to slow down as early as just before the

easy right so you'll have control by the time you hit the sharp left.

You shouldn't be going any faster than roughly 50 mph by the time you

hit Turn 7.  Be careful that you don't go inside the grass.  By the

time you enter the interlude before Turn 8, you should have the car

straightened up.



Turn 8

------

Although this turn can be taken at full speed, I strongly recommend

that you take this turn with some *controlled* braking and steering,

just a precaution that you don't hit the wall at the right.  If you

done the drifting and braking right, then you should be able to avoid

the wall at the right.



Turns 9-11

----------

This part of the track is as close as a straightaway you'll find in

this track, so use this part of the track wisely.  Make sure that you

are turning *slightly* during the easy turns, making sure that you are

not hitting the walls.  Turn 11 is where you should be doing the worry

abouties because you're going to face a fierce left right after the

easy right, so be sure that you're slowing down as you are about to

finish the easy right but not too early that you're losing control of

the car.



Turn 12

-------

If you have done a *controlled* slowing down as early as the conclusion

of Turn 11, then you should begin to do even more braking.  You should

be drifting a little as you undertake this turn.  I would say that 80

mph would be a good speed, but you need to be drifting so you can avoid

the grass at the right.  Please don't accelerate until you finish taking

on this turn.  If you slow down too late, then you're bound to hit walls

and mow some grass!



Turn 13

-------

Take this turn at full speed, trying to avoid the grass.  By the time

you finish this turn, you don't have to worry about the grass at the

left and right side of the track anymore.  JOY!



Turn 14

-------

Cut your speed to ~120 mph and I would take this turn by out-and-in, and

with heavy skidding.  When you get inside of the straightaway, you need

to have the car straightened.  Gotta be careful when drifting because

poor timing of taking this final turn will result in either unnecessary

dipping or grass contact, which ruins your performance greatly.  I'm

trying to make sure that you're staying competitive here.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

GRAND VALLEY SPEEDWAY REVERSE



You will be facing lots of weird and unfamiliar turns in Grand Valley

Speedway Reverse and you will be facing an array of bizarre passages

that may cause blatant rear tire spin, and you do need to be a careful

driver (or in my case, holding an A-Class License for the least) in

order to get away from this track without too much damage.



Turns 1 and 2

-------------

The key to taking these two turns is to control your speed without any

blatant slowdown or wheelspin.  A reasonable speed here would be 100

mph (my experimentation here is rather limited, so bear with me) with

some skidding, and after Turn 2 ends, you can go full speed for now

but you'll have to be aware that Turns 3 and 4 will be coming up.



Turns 3 and 4

-------------

No matter what kind of Gran Turismo Player you consider yourself, this

is something to worry about in Grand Valley Speedway.  Cut your speed

to ~68 mph *as* you enter the first turn.  Drift throughout the first

turn using out-and-in.  You should not be going over ~50 mph on average

during the first turn, although I'm saying ~69 mph (you lose speed as

you slide).  On Turn 14, cut your speed to around ~48 mph, take the turn

from the out-and-in, and refrain from accelerating until after you

complete this turn.  You should be at around ~40 mph by the time your

at the final stretch (You tend to lose lots of speed here, so don't go

too fast as these turns are hairpins in nature).  It's really important

that you do not brake while steering the wheel as you tend to make your

car unstable and harder to control.  Brake at a straight line no matter

what hairpin you undertake.  Turn 3 is the worst of the two because you

are entering this sharp left from a high speed.



Turn 5

------

You shouldn't have to worry about slowing down too blatantly since you

just recovered from the two hairpins.  Please do some *controlled* rapid

gas tapping as the turn keeps "going and going" and refrain from

accelerating until the turn ends.  Failure to do this will result in

rail contact at the left, which may overspin your rear tires.  You

should be lined up at the middle throughout the turn BTW.



Turn 6

------

At Turn 16, brake to about 90 mph, and start skidding as the turn begins

so that you don't hit any uneven passages that may cause blatant spinning

of the rear tires and a possible spinout.  The key to taking this turn

would be to slide throughout this turn without any contact with the wall

or with the least amount of errors.



Turn 7

------

Slide throughout nearly all of this lamer, making sure that you are not

going any faster than 70 mph.  You should make sure that you are turning

ahead of time, cutting the apex, leaning the wheels near the slant, and

making sure that you are not accelerating until after the turn.



Turn 8

------

Turn 8 is where beginners tend to bite the dust.  Cut your speed to

*below* 50 mph just before the Tunnel terminates.  When the turn

begins, you should try to cut the apex as much as you can, but don't

hit the wall at the right or you may overspin the rear tires.

Sliding's acceptable as long as you don't overdo it.



Turn 9

------

The key to taking this turn would be to cut the apex without using

the brakes too much and with a good feel of the gas pedal.  Stay

inside of the track for as much as you can, making sure that your

wheels are touching the slant, *barely* missing the grass.



Turn 10

-------

I would slide this lamer and start sliding from the outside of the

turn and work my way to the inside, making sure that my wheels are

*next* to the slant, but not touching it.  I should be staying near

the rightmost side of the track for enhanced degree of control because

I will need every drop of control by the time I enter Turn 11, which is

a deadly hairpin.



Turn 11

-------

Ancient words of wisdom:  Slow down ahead of time for control.  By the

start of the hairpin, your speed shouldn't be exceeding 42 mph.  Take

the hairpin from the outside and slowly move to the inside, but don't

touch the slant as you'll take an unwanted dip right there.  By the

time you take on the rather easy ess-curve, you should have regained

control of the car.  Since you have a long straight, you should try to

brake to 42 mph on this hairpin before all is lost (meaning that you

braked too late).



Turns 12-14

-----------

Although this Ess can be taken at full speed, be aware that you'll

need to probably be sliding on Turns 13 and 14 in order to avoid any

unwanted dipping and contact with the racing slant at the left or

right side of the track.  If you did not turn ahead of time at Turns

13 and 14, then you're bound to touch some grass, and eventually wind

up spinning out of control.  The key in this ess would be to treat

your car with lots of respect by easing out on every turn and by

turning ahead of time to avoid any sliding, which throws you off

control anyway.



Turns 15 and 16

---------------

Cut your speed to around 60 mph as the hairpin begins.  Be sure you give

room to brake because late braking may result in a spinout.  Cut the

apex from the outside.  By the time you take Turn 16 in, then you should

have regained control of the car.



========================================================================

ALL-WHEEL DRIVE CAR CHAMPIONSHIP

Number of Tracks: 3

Laps per Track: 2

Required Class License: B-Class

Restriction of Car Type: Only cars with All-Wheel Drive are allowed.

Go for a Nissan Skyline, Toyota Celica GT-Four, Mitsubishi GTO Twin

Turbo, or any All-Wheel Drive car that is class A.  Don't settle for

anything less than a Class A AWD car.

Tracks involved: Trial Mountain Reverse, Grand Valley Speedway,

Special Stage Route 5 Reverse (Mousse Lee at mousse@pixi.com)

Pole Position Bonus: 1500 Credits

Finish First in the Track Bonus: 5000 Credits

Series Winner Bonus: 10000 Credits

Car you get for winning the race: You get either a Subaru SVX S4 or a

Mitsubishi Lancer GSR Evolution IV for winning the series (Jaz Rignall

for http://www.psmonline.com)

Recommended Cars:  Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition, Any Subaru Impreza

race-tuned to perfection, Any AWD Nissan Skyline.  However, this gets

boring everytime you blast the competition away with Racing and/or

high-powered cars.  If you are good enough, then why not buy a Toyota

Celica GT-Four instead?

------------------------------------------------------------------------

While this series is a pest, if you have a Nissan Skyline GTS-R, then
you should have no problem with this series.  If you don't have a Nissan
Skyline GTS-R, and you have not been modifying your car since you get the
Skyline, you will have a hard time in this series.  Keep these things in
mind:


1.  Get your A-Class License now.  Since you need more advanced driving

    skills and stronger cars, now it is the time to get your A License

    like it or not.  I know the A-Class License tests are a lot harder

    than the B-Class License tests, but I want you to do so because

    this involves some expensive steps in order to make these sissies

    understand that resistance to your superiority is futile.



2.  Once you get your A-Class License by demonstrating your Toyota Supra
    proficiency at Grand Valley by taking on two hairpins from the

    Grand Valley Speedway using a rather hard-to-control Toyota Supra

    RZ, be sure you have a Mitsubishi Eclipse or FTO GP-R all over

    tuned, Castrol enhanced (Racing Mod Time!), and thrown into the

    Clubman Cup.  With these cars pretty much near 400 HP you should

    have no problem placing first on all three tracks.  If you can

    pole position and place first on all three tracks, then you

    should have earned 48,500 credits, which is a lot.  Sell the lame

    Chevy Camaro Z28 30th Anniversary back to Chevrolet.



3.  Win the Clubman Cup 10-12 times, and you should have between

    600,000 to 700,000 credits, which should be enough to return to

    Mitsubishi for the GTO Limited Edition, which is on sale for

    500,000 credits.  Remember the majority of the LMs you get from
    winning certain series are many times better than those that sell
    for 500,000 credits, i.e. the Mitsubishi FTO LM.

4.  For these strats, I'm going to use my personal favorite in all of
    Gran Turismo, the Mitsubishi FTO LM.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

TRIAL MOUNTAIN REVERSE



With the Mitsubishi FTO in your possesion, you should be able to take

on Trial Mountain Reverse without any problems (as opposed to the GTO

Twin Turbo undergoing lots of mods and Castrol Stickers).  You still

need to utilize all of your driving potential here in order to fry the

competition to a crisp, though (but I doubt that you'll lose because

you're inside a racing car, so get ready to snap, crackle, and pop!). 



Turns 1 and 2

-------------

The key to success in these turns is to cut the apex as much as possible

without touching the slant and without any blatant slowdown.  I would

say that 100 mph (approx) would be safe, although higher speeds may be

possible, depending on your expertise and racing prowess.



Turn 3

------

Cut your speed to around 70 mph and take this turn from the outside to

the inside.  Try not to touch the slant at the right side of the track

since this makes your car unstable.  You should have the car back in

straight condition when you take on Turn 4.



Turn 4

------

Do the same thing as with Turn 3, but this time around, stay off the

slant at the left side of the track, since your car may "bounce" up

and down (causing you to lose control).  Sliding's acceptable, as

long as you don't turn too sloppy on this turn.



Turns 5 and 6

-------------

Try to keep a smooth racing line as much as you can to maximize speed

and make sure that you stay off the walls (since they may be a problem

to most of you).  Gently turn ahead of time as each turn starts and

by the time you finish Turn 6, you should have the car in straight

standing to prepare yourself for Turn 7.



Turn 7

------

You will be able to get inside the rightmost side of the track if you

can slow down ahead of time.  I would say that around 80 mph would be

safe.  Make sure that you do not accelerate until after the turn.



Turn 8

------

Since I'm inside an All Wheel Drive car, I would brake while I'm inside

the tunnel, and begin turning as the tunnel ends.  As with all turns,

do not accelerate until after you're confident enough that you're not

gonna be hitting any slants as you enter another tunnel.  I would say

that 100 mph would be safe for this turn.



Turn 9

------

The key to undertaking this turn is to skid here without any blatant

loss of speed.  I would say that just *a little* under 90 mph would be

fine to avoid hitting any wall or touching any grass, although you need

to adjust this based upon your expertise.



Turns 10 and 11

---------------

Ease up on these turns as much as you can.  By the time you finish up

taking on Turn 11, you need to have your car in a straight line in order

to slow down at Turn 12, which is a deadly hairpin.



Turn 12

-------

You will carry more control if you cut your speed in a straight line,

making sure that you are not over 50 mph as you take on this turn, and

you cut the apex (while avoiding the walls, grass, and slants).  Do not

accelerate until after the turn.  Please be aware that Turn 13 follows

this turn almost immediately.



Turn 13

-------

You need to start drifting just before the dip.  Yank the car to the

right *just right* in order to avoid hitting the slant or going off

the track.  By the time you finish this turn, you should have the car

straightened and regained control of your vehicle.



Turn 14

-------

Start turning ahead of time, and move from the left side of the track

to the right side of the track.  You should be careful not to hit the

slant at the right side of the track as you may take an unnecessary

dip.  You will need as much control as you can when you reach Turns

15 and 16, so negotiate this turn with zest, and don't go too fast.



Turns 15 and 16

---------------

The key to success on these turns is to cut the apex of each of these

turns without any contact with the slants, and by going around 120 mph

during both of these turns.  When the left turn starts, yank the wheel

gently, and when the right turn starts, you may need to apply some

braking and drift during the final turn.  By the time you're ready to

cross the finish line, you should be back in control.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

GRAND VALLEY SPEEDWAY



It's a good reason to know why you're restricted to the use of All Wheel

Drive cars on this series:  Grand Valley Speedway is one of the harder

courses, with two hairpin entrances at high speeds, weird corridors, and

a hoarse chicane.  Beginners will need to depend on a Subaru Impreza
Limited Edition, a Mitsubishi GTO Limited Edition, or an FTO Limited
Edition in order to learn this track without sustaining too much
damange.



Turn 1

------

Being dizzy right after starting will make you uncomfortable on the

second turn, which is a hairpin.  You'll want to cut your speed as soon

as you finish up taking on the gentle left so that you'll have your

speed *reasonably* reduced by the time you take on the first hairpin

turn in the track.



Turn 2

------

If you were able to cut your speed (I recommend releasing the gas pedal

and by the time you hit the *slight* straight brake to ~60 mph and do

some sliding) as you were taking on the first turn in preparation of

this hairpin, then great.  If not, then be prepared to either touch

the dirt or deal with a spinout!  It's important that you cut your

speed (if you're going over 120 mph at the start of Turn 1) as early

as Turn 1, and start reacting by the time you reach Turn 2 so you can

allow some room for error by the time you reach the next straight, a

gateway to a rather gruesome S-curve coming up.



Turns 3-5

---------

Although this Ess can be taken at full speed, be aware that you'll

need to probably be sliding on Turn 5 in order to avoid any unwanted

dipping and contact with the racing slant at the left or right side

of the track.  If you did not turn ahead of time at Turn 5, then

you're bound to touch some grass, and eventually wind up spinning out

of control.  You'll need to be in good shape when you take on Turn 6,

which is a really bad hairpin.



Turn 6

------

Ancient words of wisdom:  Slow down ahead of time for control.  By the

start of the hairpin, your speed shouldn't be exceeding 42 mph.  Take

the hairpin from the outside and slowly move to the inside, but don't

touch the slant as you'll take an unwanted dip right there.  Don't let

the next straight fool you as you'll have to take on a rather *sharp*

left.



Turn 7

------

I would slide this lamer and start sliding from the outside of the

turn and work my way to the inside, making sure that my wheels are

*next* to the slant, but not touching it.  I should be staying near

the leftmost side of the track when I finish this turn because Turn

8 is coming up.



Turn 8

------

As with Turn 7, I would slide and take this turn from the outside and

work my way to the inside, making sure that my wheels are near the

slant (but not touching it), and continue to stay near the rightmost

side of the track because Turn 9 is coming up, and believe me, Turn 9

is a sharp left (a carryover from the Sunday Cup and all other B-Class

Races).  Turn 8 is indeed a lot deadlier than Turn 7 so you may have

to go slower on this turn as opposed to Turn 7.



Turn 9

------

Deadly Sharp Left.  Before you enter this turn, make sure that you're

not going any faster than ~50 mph.  Start the turn from the outside,

work your way inside.  If you performed this turn correctly, then you

should *barely* miss the wall.  If you took this turn lousy, then be

prepared to hit the wall or spin out.  Try not to slide here because

that's where beginners tend to overspeed and overslide, causing major

spinouts and problems that may show your vulnerability towards your

opponents.



Turn 10

-------

As deadly as this painfully sharp left may seem, it seems to be a *bad*

hairpin in disguise (but shouldn't be that bad).  Try to slow down as

early as you can so you don't have to overslide and spin out on this

turn.  I would say that ~60 mph would be safe (safe enough to avoid the

grass at the right), though my experimentation's been limited.  If you

are going too fast or skidding too sloppy, then a nice Tunnel Wall is

waiting for you at the start of Turn 11.



Turn 11

-------

If you have taken Turn 10 neatly, great.  At Turn 11, don't go any

slower than 90 mph.  I would slide throughout the turn and possibly

use a *little* rapid gas tapping so that I don't accelerate until

after the turn finishes and the straightaway begins.  Use the straight

before Turn 12 efficiently because at Turn 12, you'll have to cut your

speed *just a little* before the straight terminates.



Turn 12

-------

Is your speed cut to ~110 by the time the turn started?  Well, do some

*controlled* rapid gas tapping as the turn keeps "going and going" and

refrain from accelerating until the turn ends.  Failure to do this will

result in rail contact at the left, which may damage your tires.



Turns 13 and 14

---------------

No matter what kind of Gran Turismo Player you consider yourself, this

is something to worry about in Grand Valley Speedway.  Cut your speed

to ~74 mph *as* you enter the first turn.  Drift throughout the first

turn using out-and-in.  You should not be going over ~60 mph on average

during the first turn, although I'm saying ~74 mph (you lose speed as

you slide).  On Turn 14, cut your speed to around ~50 mph, take the turn

from the out-and-in, and refrain from accelerating until after you

complete this turn.  You should be at around ~40 mph by the time your

at the final stretch (You tend to lose lots of speed here, so don't go

too fast as these turns are hairpins in nature).



Turn 15

-------

The key here is to take this turn without any unneccessary slowing down

or having to touch the grass on either side.  I would say that ~130 mph

with some sliding (assuming that you started turning as the turn starts)

would be safe enough to avoid the slant and grass at the left.  On the

second and third lap, you'll need to be careful when taking on Turns 1

and 2 because you may be at about 175 mph (on Class A Cars) by the time

you enter this area once again.  Don't act like a drunk driver in this

track because the competition's much more powerful than in the Sunday

and Clubman Cup.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 5 REVERSE



One tough hombre.  You need to utilize everthing you've got in order to

win this track, but I'm assuming that you're inside either a Subaru

Impreza Limited Edition or a Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition to reduce

the amount of fear in this track.  This is also one track that the

computer tends to drive cheap in.



Turn 1

------

The key to taking on this turn is to slow down to 100 mph without any

sliding or wall contact.  I would use some rapid-gas tapping throughout

this turn for enhanced control.  I would try to stay in the middle of

the track most of the time, but please don't take my word for it because

you will be facing a nasty triangle sooner or later.



Turns 2-4

---------

For the first turn, slide and make sure that you are not going any

faster than 60 mph.  On the final two turns, make sure that you are not

going any faster than 70 mph, and that you are trying to keep a smooth

racing line for as much as you can.  It may be necessary to slide during

the final two turns, but not always as you can cut the apex of the final

two turns provided that you do not get into any frontal collisions with

the wall.



Turns 5 and 6

-------------

Negotiate these two corners by slowing down, drifting, and apex-cutting

these turns accordingly.  Make sure that you start each of the turns

ahead of time or you may be throwing yourself at the outside of the

turn.  At the end of Turn 6, you will need to cut the inside of the

track and exit staying in the inside because a hairpin is coming up.



Turn 7

------

Slide this lame hairpin for as much as you can, making sure that you

are not ending up on a sloppy slide and that you are not going any

faster than 40 mph, since this hairpin is pretty tight.  You should

not be accelerating until after this turn.  Don't feed in too much

gas while sliding on this hairpin to prevent all-wheel burn and

damage to all axles.



Turns 8 and 9

-------------

Try to cut each turn from the out-and-in by turning ahead of time

and using your drifting technique.  Don't turn too late or you may

be mashing onto a deadly wall.  The key to taking on this fast

chicane is to cut the apex and drift as much as possible without

blatant speed loss.  You should take advantage of the straight after

Turn 9, but don't go to the right as you will suffer.



Turn 10

-------

This Ess can be taken at full speed.  Make sure that you yank the car

just before the turn starts because these turns are rather blind for

beginners.  Be careful if you approach this ess at a dangerously high

speed, though.



Turn 11

-------

Take this turn from the out-and-in, preparing yourself for Turn 12.

Don't slow down too much because this may result in a blatant skid,

something you don't want to do until you reach Turn 12.



Turn 12

-------

You can scrape the left wall by turning the car to the right just right

and hug the wall while stepping on the gas but that's risky because you

will burn up the tires and possibly spin all the wheels.  I would just

skid on this turn (although I may have to hit the wall).  You may have

to adjust your speed depending on your skill.  I would say that 60 mph

is safe to start.



Turn 13

-------

Turn gently on this turn, making sure that you are going from the out

and in so you will prepare yourself for the final two turns.  By the

time you start Turn 14, you should be lined up at the left side of the

track.



Turn 14

-------

The key to undertaking this turn is to cut the apex as much as possible

without any blatant sliding or slowing down.  About 110 mph and over 100

mph would be reasonable.  A good feel of the gas and wheel is required

in order to avoid any wall contact.



Turn 15

------

This final turn can be taken at full speed.  If you skid, then just

make sure that you have the car straightened up before you cross the

finish line, as you will need every drop of speed to blast the enemies

into smithereens in this track.  I doubt that you need to skid here

because all wheel drive cars were meant for stability.



========================================================================

FEATHERWEIGHT CAR CHAMPIONSHIP

Number of Tracks: 3

Laps per Track: 2

Required Class License: B-Class

Restriction of Car Type: See my notes below

Tracks involved: Autumnring-Mini Reverse, Clubman Stage Route 5, Deep

Forest Reverse (Mousse Lee at mousse@pixi.com)

Pole Position Bonus: 2000 Credits

Finish First in the Track Bonus: 5000 Credits

Series Winner Bonus: 10000 Credits

Car you get for winning the race: Either a Honda CRX Type R or a Mazda

Eunos for winning this tough series (http://www.psmonline.com)

Recommended Cars:  Acura Integra Type R, Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Vestiroth's note: The Featherweight car championship is a tough B-Class

championship to win because the cars in this series tend to show a lot

of their potential here.  Although the cars aren't as souped up as the

A-Class and the International A-Class races, they can be a problem much

to the fact that they're using advanced driving techniques.  There are

bound to be some pretty powerful opposition in this race, so have a

powerful car in your garage to start.  Here are the cars that eligible

to participate in the Featherweight/Economy Sports Car Championship:



*  Toyota Starlet Glanza V

*  Toyota Corolla Levin BZG

*  Toyota Sprinter Trueno BZG

*  Toyota AE86 Corrola Levin GT-APEX

*  Toyota AE86 Sprinter Trueno GT-APEX

*  Mitsubishi FTO 1994 GR

*  Mitsubishi FTO 1994 GPX

*  Mitsubishi FTO GPX

*  Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R

*  Mitsubishi Mirage Asti RX

*  Mitsubishi Mirage 1992 Cyborg R

*  Acura Integra GS-R

*  Acura Integra Type R

*  Honda Civic Sedan

*  Honda Civic Racer

*  Honda Civic 3-Door

*  Honda Civic Del Sol S

*  Honda Civic Del Sol Si

*  Honda Civic 1991 CR-X Si

*  Honda Civic 1993 3-Door

*  Honda Civic 1993 Sedan

*  Mazda Miata=Eunos Roadster 1989 Normal

*  Mazda Miata=Eunos Roadster 1990 V-Special

*  Mazda Miata=Eunos Roadster 1992 S-Special

*  Mazda Miata=Eunos Roadster Normal

*  Mazda Miata=Eunos Roadster V-Special

*  Mazda Miata=Eunos Roadster S-Special

*  Mazda Demio GL-X

*  Mazda Demio GL

*  Mazda Demio LX G-Package

*  Mazda Demio A-Spec



This is according to what Sony said on their Reference Manual.  If you

have any more cars that are eligible for this tough B-Class event, then

please e-mail me.  Now keep in mind that you must be inside one of these

cars in order to enter this race, so make sure that you've purchased one

of these eligible entries before entering.  Now without further dues,

here's some suggestions:



1.  Purchase an Acura Integra Type R or a Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R.

    Get used to these cars by throwing them on the Sunday Cup 10-12

    times.  Sell all Mazda Demios as you build up your potential at the

    Sunday Cup.  Use all the dough to overpower the Integra/FTO with

    nothing but tune-up parts, and a Racing Modification which causes

    your Lightweight car to perform better.  Although the Acura Integra

    is what allowed me to stay competitive in Castrol form, why not go

    to Mitsubishi and purchase an FTO instead?  You're encouraged to get

    these cars in order to stay competitive:



*  Acura Integra Type R

*  Mitsubishi FTO 1994 GPX

*  Mitsubishi FTO GPX

*  Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R



2.  With all the money earned from selling those lemoney Mazda Demios

    and by dominating the Sunday Cup to nothing, go to either the Mugen

    (if you are inside the Acura) or the Ralli Art (if you are inside

    the Mitsubishi FTO) and tune up your car to the max, cut their

    weight down, and transform them into Castrol Racers.



3.  Test their racing dominence by doing a spot race at Autumnring-Mini

    so you can get used to their control and speed.



4.  Once you are used to your lovely Integra or FTO, it's time to burn

    all these sissy economy cars to a crisp with an awesome racing

    Economy car that you have purchased!



5.  Although I have been using the Acura Integra Type R throughout all

    my attempts in this series, I'm going to be basing this section of

    this FAQ as if you were riding the Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R.  If
    you are not inside an Acura Integra Type R or a Class-B FTO, then I
    don't know how you'll be able to earn respect in this series.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

AUTUMN RING MINI REVERSE



The key to succeeding in this track is to make sure that you don't do

too much blatant slowdown as featherweight cars were meant for handling

at wicked turns like the final hairpin at the final stretch of the

track.  Also, try to convert some turns into one turn as you may save

your front wheels from burn.



Turn 1

------

Cut your speed to about 80 mph just before the turn starts.  Skid this

lamer and by the time the chicanes begin, you should regain control of

the car.



Turns 2-5

---------

Ease yourself throughout this chicane.  Keep your speed around 70 mph to

avoid grass contact.  Try to keep a straight racing line in order to

maintain your top speed.  Use Turn 5 as your cue to Turn 6.



Turn 6

------

You should start skidding at Turn 5 as preparation for undertaking this

turn.  I would say you should cut your speed to around 50 mph when you

undertake Turn 5 so you can treat Turns 5 and 6 as one turn.  Don't

bother accelerating until after you finish Turn 6.



Turn 7

------

Slow down ahead of time so you can cut the apex of the turn.  Skid this

lamer as much as you can (but keep in mind that you may touch the grass

during the Apex cut).  Right before Turn 8 begins, you should have the

car straightened up so you can drift throughout this turn.



Turn 8

------

Drift this turn at around 50 mph (but no more than 60 mph).  Have your

car straightened up after Turn 7 so you can brake smoothly and in a

straight line to avoid any blatant wheelspin and possibly a spin-out.



Turn 9

------

This could be pretty much the worst turn in the track.  You'll need to

slow down to 37 mph just before the turn starts.  Hopefully, you got

the car straightened up after Turn 8 because you need every drop of

control in order to pass this hairpin without error.  Try not to spin

the rear tires as this may result in a blatant spinout.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

CLUBMAN STAGE ROUTE 5



You need to make sure that you are not doing any blatant slowdowns in

this course because in this track, all of your computer foes tend to

pose a threat because they are taking the most wicked turns at even

ludicrous speeds (because of the low volume weight), so in order to

increase the chances of winning, you'll need to be inside a Castrolized

Featherweight/Economy Car.



Turn 1

------

I would slow down just a *bit* so I can prepare to take on Turn 2

without any braking, but you can take this turn in full speed provided

that your speed isn't exceeding the safe speed at Turn 2.



Turn 2

------

I would say that ~90 mph would be a safe speed here.  You can try higher

speeds depending on the car that you are in and depending on your driving

prowess.  You should try to do *controlled* braking here so you don't go

over 100 mph which seems to be unsafe for normal and modified cars.



Turn 3

------

Drift from the outside and into the inside.  You should be at the right

side of the track in preparation for Turn 4, which is pretty dangerous.

Don't go bonkers accelerating here because you have Turn 4 to worry about

immediately after this turn.



Turn 4

------

You should try to cut your speed to ~60 mph here.  Slow down ahead of

time and take this turn from the out-and-in.  Don't slow down too late

or you may be slamming into the wall really hard.



Turn 5

------

Providing that you have taken Turn 4 smoothly, this turn can be taken

with some acceleration.  If you taken Turn 4 horribly, then I don't

have a friggin' clue on how you'll be able to take this turn.



Turns 6&7

---------

This ess can be taken at full speed providing that you are turning

ahead of time and providing that you are taking the turn from the

out-and-in.  Please try to keep a smooth racing line here because

this turns out to be one of the areas where beginners lose control.



Turn 8

------

Slow down ahead of time and start the turn from the right.  Begin

drifting when appropriate.  Try not to go bonkers sliding because

you'll slam into the wall.  Don't accelerate because you have Turn

9 to deal with next.



Turn 9

------

This turn is sharper than Turn 8.  As with Turn 8, take this turn

out-and-in and by drifting.  You need to go slower than in Turn 9

(but not too slow that the drones are harassing you) in order to set

up for the acceleration at the straightaway.  When you overtake Turn 1

on the next lap, you need to slow down at Turn 1 so you can keep a

smooth racing line at Turn 2.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

DEEP FOREST REVERSE



This is the hardest course among all the tracks in the Featherweight Car

Championships because you have to deal with the grass at nearly every

turn and there are bound to be times when you're forced to take turns

at high speeds, but hey, what is a Featherweight Car used for in a Gran

Turismo Race?  So make sure you think twice before trying to do any

slow down because the computer cars tend to take nasty turns at high

speeds.  Stay off the grass because you may melt the tires.



Turn 1

------

You can powerslide this sucker providing that you braked the car just

before the turn starts, and controlled the slide during the turn. If

you're not crazy about sliding, then you may want to slow down to 95

mph just before the turn starts.



Turns 2 and 3

-------------

Turn 2 can be taken at full speed.  However, you will need to slow down

at a straight line when you are about to undertake Turn 3.  I would say

85 mph with some sliding would be reasonable enough to avoid hitting

the wall at the left.



Turns 4 and 5

-------------

These turns are as close as you'll find with a straightaway, so make

sure that you are keeping a straight racing line to ensure that your

car is running straight and smooth so you can slow down by the time

you see some sections of Turn 6.



Turn 6

------

When you see some sections of the turn, you should cut your speed

according to the weight of your car.  Keep in mind that heavier cars

tend to take longer to slow down, so you will need to keep that in

mind.  Cut your speed to 110 mph before the turn starts, and when

Turn 6 begins, release the gas pedal, brake, and rapid-tap the gas.

I would say that you're going to end up going 80 mph sliding for the

most part.



Turns 7 and 8

-------------

The key to undertaking these turns is to keep a smooth racing line

without any blatant slowdown.  You should try to speed out if you

risk going inside the grass, but you should never try to get into a

blatant slide here.  When you are inside the tunnel, you should be

at a smooth racing line so that you can slow down in preparation for

turns 9 and 10.



Turns 9 and 10

--------------

Slow down to 60 mph when you are inside the tunnel.  You should be

below 60 mph by the time Turn 9 begins.  You can skid throughout this

turn, but it's rather dangerous because if you land on the grass, then

you'll accidentially spin the rear wheels (causing a possible spinout).

You will need to be running in a straight line by the time you get

inside the tunnel that signals Turn 10.  Again, cut your speed (but

don't slow down too much) while inside the tunnel, and as the tunnel

ends, begin to skid.  Try to use the out-and-in technique and make

sure that you are not going inside the grass.



Turns 11-13

-----------

A smooth racing line will help you set up for the final hairpin at the

final stretch of the track.  Just make sure that you are not undergoing

a blatant skid or any grass mowing during these three turns.



Turn 14

-------

Go to the leftmost lane and cut your speed to about 60 mph.  When the

turn starts, lean to the inside of the track, and forget about using

the gas in full until you can get out of the haripin without error.

The key to undertaking this hairpin is with *zest* speed control.




========================================================================

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS



The purpose of creating Gran Turismo FAQs grouped by License Classes is

to provide help in how to pass the license tests, and how to get first

place in each track and series. This also happens to be one of the

PlayStation games where I've been receiving lots of stupid e-mail about

questions that can be easily answered by myself when I was only 7 years

of age. Before you even e-mail me about Gran Turismo again, you are
strongly advised to look over this section before e-mailing me.  Most
of your questions should be answered by just simply looking at this FAQ
and/or just by looking at this section!



Q: Is there a code to unlock the 1967 Chevrolet Corvette in the Simulation

   Mode of the game?



A: Hell no. This car is only available at the Arcade Mode of the game.



Q: How come you don't write any FAQs for the Arcade Mode of the game?



A: Simple. Because much of the game's replay value is centralized

   throughout the Simulation Mode.



Q: Why do you tell me to use the FWD and AWD cars in any of your GT

   FAQs?



A: They're a lot more stable and more forgiving to drive than Rear

   Wheel Cars, which require a lot of respect. My personal favorite

   is the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition with AWD, a great prize you

   can have for winning the US Versus Japan Championships.



Q: Why don't you use the Concept Car?



A: I hate the Concept Car. It's rather unstable and it sucks (IMHO).

   However, Adrian Pepper recommends that you try it in one race

   although you may hate the unstable nature of the car. You have to

   test the car and keep on fiddling the car until you find the right

   settings for you. To caution you, never, ever, ever fiddle the

   car's settings (you've got to know the car's strengths and weaknesses

   first) unless you know what you're doing.  This is my most hated

   car from my perspective, and this car isn't Mark Kim-approved

   at all.



Q: Do I NEED to run all stages of Weight Reduction before buying the

   Racing Body?



A: Now this is one interesting question. I usually purchase all stages

   of Weight Reduction before buying the Racing Body. However, this is

   what has Brian McNulty said to me on a previous message:
 

   "I am writing to you about your B, A, and IA strategy guides. I have

    noted several times that you make notes telling people to 'Make sure

    that you buy all the stages of weight reduction before you buy the

    racing modification'.


    This is not acurate in that your car will weigh the same after the

    racing modification regardless of whether or not you buy the weight

    reduction or not.


    I conducted an experiment with Mutsubishi GTO Twin Turbo. The car

    brand new weighs 3769 lbs, after three stages of weight reduction,

    AND, racing modification it weighed 2713 lbs.


    I then bought another GTO same color and all weighing 3769 lbs. off

    the lot and performed ONLY the racing modification. Both of these

    cars *Castrolized* weighed 2713 lbs, one with the racing mod., the
    other without.


    Try it some time and E-mail me with the results."



Q: What are the best cars to use for each series?



A: Here's the lowdown:


   Sunday Cup: A car that's powerful enough.
 

  Clubman Cup: An adequately-powered up Nissan Skyline GTS-R
   GT Cup: A fully-tuned Nissan Skyline GTS-R or a Mitsubishi FTO LM


   GT World Cup: Same as with the GT Cup


   Front-Wheel Drive: Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R, Fully Tuned, Racing

   Body under your discretion.


   Rear-Wheel Drive: Dodge Viper or TVR Cerbera. The Viper GTS-R

   and Cerbera LM are also strong cars.


   All-Wheel Drive: Any Nissan Skyline GTS-R


   Featherweight Championships: Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R, Fully

   Tuned.  I personally would try to get a racing body with this one.


   US Versus Japan: Nissan Skyline GTS-R or Mitsubishi FTO LM


   Japan Versus UK: Nissan Skyline GTS-R or Mitsubishi FTO LM

   US Versus UK: TVR Cerbera LM or Dodge Viper GTS-R


   Commercial Car Championships: Dodge Viper GTS/RT-10 (Don't do

   anything to it) or the Rarity from the IA License Tests.


   Heavily Tuned Championships: Heavily Tuned Nissan Skyline GT-R

   (No Racing Bodies).  This is the hardest race to win on because

   you can't bring along your big-daddy racing cars to this one, which

   is a sad moment!


   Megaspeed: Nissan Skyline GT-R V-Spec or Mitsubishi GTO

   Twinturbo/MR fully fiddled for speeds of at least 245 mph


   Grand Valley Endurance: Mitsubishi FTO LM


   Special Stage Route 11 Endurance: Mitsubishi FTO LM
   Special Stage Route 11 Reverse Endurance: Heavily Tuned Nissan

   Skyline GT-R (No Racing Bodies).  This is another difficult race to

   win.  Definitely configure your car for handling here.



Q: I can't get past License A-4!



A: This is one of the game's toughest tests in the Simulation Mode. The

   key in this license test is to corner through bad turns without blatant

   slowdown. The Nissan Skyline GT-R VSpec isn't an easy car to use so

   this track may require use of Manual Transmission. At the starting line,
   you want to cut through the apex and stay inside

   all the way at full speed. Slow down ahead of time from the outside

   before the first sharp turn and don't brake too hard. Cut the apex of

   the sharp turn and use short taps of the gas to buffer the cornering.

   If you have to slow down, just use short taps of the pedal. At the

   final major turn, you want to be at the outside and then just use the

   gas pedal. Cut the apex. Try to keep a smooth line all the way so

   that you don't lose speed from sliding through the turn. This test

   takes a lot of getting used to so don't get pissed if you can't pass it

   your first couple of times. This test mainly sees how competent of a

   driver you are rather than on speed.


   Be sure to pay attention to my Gran Turismo A-Class License Guide as

   it has some rough hypothesis on this cheap test!



Q: Tell me the eligible cars for the featherweight championships!



A: The eligible cars are as follows:


   * Toyota Starlet Glanza V

   * Toyota Corolla Levin BZG

   * Toyota Sprinter Trueno BZG

   * Toyota AE86 Corolla Levin GT-APEX

   * Toyota AE86 Sprinter Trueno GT-APEX

   * Mitsubishi FTO 1994 GR

   * Mitsubishi FTO 1994 GPX

   * Mitsubishi FTO GPX

   * Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R

   * Mitsubishi Mirage Asti RX

   * Mitsubishi Mirage 1992 Cyborg R

   * Acura Integra GS-R

   * Acura Integra Type R

   * Honda Civic Sedan

   * Honda Civic Racer

   * Honda Civic 3-Door

   * Honda Civic Del Sol S

   * Honda Civic Del Sol Si

   * Honda Civic 1991 CR-X Si

   * Honda Civic 1993 3-Door

   * Honda Civic 1993 Sedan

   * Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster 1989 Normal

   * Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster 1990 V-Special

   * Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster 1992 S-Special

   * Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster Normal

   * Miata Eunos Roadster V-Special

   * Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster S-Special

   * Mazda Demio GL-X

   * Mazda Demio GL

   * Mazda Demio LX G-Package

   * Mazda Demio A-Spec.


   All cars (with the exception of the Demio A-Spec) are shown on your

   GT Manual and Instruction Book.



Q: I can't get past License Test B-3!!!



A: It's time for the real fight. This test is possibly the toughest test

   among the B-Class License Tests. Since the Honda Civic Del Sol

   doesn't have lively acceleration and excellent speed, your best bet is

   to stay at the right side of the track and try to slow down ahead of

   time. Don't use the brakes since you may blatantly slow down. Use

   short taps of the Gas to level around the apex and make sure that

   you keep a smooth driving line so that you don't lose too much speed.

   I highly recommend using the Manual Transmission for this track.



Q: I CAN'T PASS A SINGLE IA-LICENSE TEST!!!



A: All of these IA-Class License Tests are set on the Time Trials,

   requiring you to utilize just about everything you learned from the

   B and A Class Events. If for any reason you can't master any of the

   IA-License Tests, then here are the solutions:
 

   1. Try attempting on all of the first seven License Tests. If

      for any reason you can't pass any of the seven license

      tests, then just exit out of the IA License Tests and save

      your progress to your Memory Card.
 

   2. The best way to know how to use the Dodge Viper GTS

      Coupe is to throw the Dodge Viper GTS Coupe on the

      Commercial Car Championships. Buy a Viper GTS Coupe

      and don't do anything to it. Not only this is a great way

      to get used to the Viper GTS Coupe, but it's also a great

      way to earn some cold hard cash.


   3. Try to buy a TVR Griffith and don't do anything to it. Test

      the TVR Griffith through the "freelance" Time Trial Runs

      and see how good you are with the Griffith. You may

      need to practice with the TVR through the Sunday Cup a

      few times to get used to it.


   4. I personally would try to get used to a car with at least

      500 Horsepower. There are plenty of Racing Models that

      has lots of horses under the hood. Also, try to get used

      to a fully-tuned, racing modified Nissan Skyline GT-R or a

      Mitsubishi GTO TwinTurbo/MR.


   5. I personally would participate in any of these A-Class

      Series: All International Competition Series, GT Cup, and

      the Commecial Car Series. Also, try to use a Rear-Drive

      Racing Car so that you can get used to the Rear-Drive

      Cars a lot better.



Q: Please tell me what the cheats are.



A: I'll make this clear: THERE ARE NO CHEAT CODES IN GRAN TURISMO!!!!

   Sony did a good job creating a game that has NO CHEAT CODES

   whatsoever. Cheat codes ONLY RUIN REPLAY VALUE so be it. PLEASE DO

   NOT BEG ME FOR ANY MORE GRAN TURISMO/GRAN TURISMO 2 CHEAT CODES

   THROUGH E-MAIL ANYMORE!!! I'm getting sick and tired of

   anybody begging me for any cheat codes!!!! If you EVEN DARE

   ask me for any cheat codes for Gran Turismo or Gran Turismo 2,

   then I will assume you spamming me.



Q: What do you mean by "Castrolizing" the car?



A: I use the term "Castrolize" as a classification when you tune up

   your car to the maximum possible levels.  This means maxing-out the

   brakes, gearshaft, horsepower, and all other attributes of the car.

   I'll leave the decision between weight reduction and racing body up

   to you, though.



Q: When are you going to create an FAQ for Gran Turismo 2 for the Play

   Station?



A: Definitely not.  I was overall disappointed with the sequel.



========================================================================

THE DO'S AND DONT'S



Again, this FAQ is for use only in the following sites:

* Mark Kim's Website: http://home.comcast.net/~markkim31
* GameFAQs http://www.gamefaqs.com




If you find this FAQ is AT ANY OTHER SITE OTHER THAN THE LISTED ABOVE,

THEN IT IS AN ILLEGAL COPY.  Please notify and/or warn me about this

as soon as you can.  Thank you.



In addition, only myself (Mark Kim, Vesther Fauransy) and Gamers.COM

(http://www.gamers.com, Joel, please notify me of any address changes

if you are reading this) are the ONLY ones who can HTMLize this file

(with bug busts and grammar changes permitted).



Why?  Because these sites are the only ones that keep all original work

updated and up-to-date.



You can always get the latest version of this FAQ at GameFAQs since I
always put the latest version of my works right there first.




GameFAQs does a good job keeping the files up-to-date at all times and
is regarded as the most visited "stable" for FAQ-related walkthroughs,

original work, and the like.



Rules:



* DO NOT place this file in your web site directly.  Only Joel Downs,
  GameFAQs, and myself have exclusive rights to this file.



* If you are planning to link to any of the sites I have

  mentioned on this reminder, then you are to be advised that

  your linking rights are heavily limited as foretold on the

  webmaster's fine prints (depending on where you plan to make

  your link to).  If I'm too vague on this, then please visit

  the following URL to see why more and more webmasters are

  restricting links:


  = http://www.templetons.com/brad/linkright.html (Brad Templeton's

    Linking Rights Essay).


========================================================================

REFERENCES OF THIS FAQ



NO GT FAQ can be complete without giving "hard credit" for those who

helped me out while I was still green on this game.  These people/sites

are:



*  Jaz Rignall (http://www.psmonline.com)

*  GameFAQs.com (http://www.gamefaqs.com)

*  Mousse Lee

*  Mystery Rhee (http://mit.edu/mystery/www/gtfaq.txt)

*  Sam Davis

*  Fukomoto Atsushi (http://www.imasy.or.jp/~fukumoto/gt/)

*  Secrets of the Sega Sages (http://www.segasages.com)

*  Imagine Games Network (http://www.imaginegames.com)



========================================================================

SUGGESTING SUGGESTIONS AND OTHER TRALALA



Sending UCE to any of the mailboxes that I have is not tolerated.

Period.  I report any incidence of spamming by checking the header on

where you originated the message at and then report the incidence to

the server you originated your message at (which is more likely to get

you in deep trouble) or I can just slam you by sending complaints to

the following: The server you originated the message at, to your

provider, or possibly the Free-Mail Service that you use.  Don't spam

me.  It's not worth it.



In addition, I WILL _NO LONGER_ TOLERATE ANY E-MAIL ASKING ME FOR ANY

CHEATS COMPATIBLE FOR GRAN TURISMO.  If you even dare ask me for any

cheat codes for GT, then I will assume that you are spamming.



See http://spam.abuse.net to see why it's bad.



========================================================================

SOME RANTS



After having to winder around the International A Class License tests,

I managed to get my IA-Class License and saved this progress on my

Memory Card.  This is good because I don't want to go through the

trouble of having to get my license once again.  It may be hard to get

your IA License but once you get it, then it's worth the effort of

getting it.



When I read one of GameFan's magazines (Commercial Magazines now suck

these days, now that you can get hardcore strategies on the Internet

for free), I've realized that there is NO CHEAT CODES listed for Gran

Turismo.  Be it.  There is no cheat codes for Gran Turismo.  Sony will

not create any cheat codes for any game that they might publish or

develop and never will.  Cheat Codes only spoil replay value, and that's

the bottom line!



========================================================================

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS



*  Jaz Rignall for being the standard example of Gran Turismo Domination

   and being the wiz in Gran Turismo.  Read his Gran Turismo Guide at

   http://www.psmonline.com.



*  Sony and Polyphony Digital for creating the best PlayStation Game in

   the market ever yet.



*  Toyota, Honda, Acura, Nissan, Mitsubishi, Mazda, Subaru, Chrysler,

   General Motors, TVR, and Aston Martin for permitting Sony to portray

   their cars in Gran Turismo.



*  Fukomoto Atsushi, Sam Davis, Mousse Lee, and Mystery Rhee for being

   one of the many first FAQ Authors to produce a Gran Turismo FAQ.



*  Secrets of the Sega Sages for secrets regarding about winning the

   Commercial Car Race.



*  Imagine Games Network for accepting Sega Sages and GameFAQs.com as

   IGN Affiliates.



*  Tigeraid (John Culbert) for using my Gran Turismo Documents as a basis

   for creating his own compendium.



*  Joel Downs for creating HTMLized versions of my Gran Turismo Documents

   and for days of e-mail communication.



*  GameFAQs for being the largest stable of original, fresh work.



*  Chris MacDonald/Kao Megura for being the first 5MB FAQ Author.



** END OF DOCUMENT **



Unpublished Work (tm) and (c) by Mark Kim.  All Rights Reserved

Gran Turismo: (tm) and (c) by Sony Computer Entertainment.  Developed

by Polyphony Digital.  All the cars, images, their likelinesses, and

other real-life car-related events are (tm) and (c) of their respective

owners.