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    IA-Class License Guide by MKim

    Version: Final | Updated: 03/27/05 | Printable Version | Search This Guide

                                  Gran Turismo
    
                    B-Class License Winning Strategies Guide
    
              Sony Computer Entertainment/Polyphony Digital for the
    
                           Sony PlayStation 1 Console
    
    WARNING: This guide will ONLY work for the American versions of the game
    
                              Compiled by Mark Kim
                                 Final Revision
                       Date of Completion: March 27, 2005
    
    
    Copyright Information
    
    ---------------------
    
    Unpublished work trademarked (tm) and copyrighted (c) by Mark Kim.
    
    All Rights Reserved.
    
    
    WARNING: This document is for use in the following websites only:
    * Mark Kim's website (http://home.comcast.net/~markkim31)
    * GameFAQs (http://www.gamefaqs.com)
    
    Sales, profit-making, publishing any or all of this information to for-
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    granted only if this entire document is unedited, and in one piece.
    
    TO MAKE IT SIMPLE: DON'T STEAL, DON'T MAKE MONEY OUT OF IT, AND DON'T
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     Gran Turismo is developed by Polyphony Digital under license by Sony
    
     Computer Entertainment, Inc.  This game is copyrighted 1997, 1998 Sony
    
     Computer Entertainment.  All Rights Reserved.  The cars, images, and
    
     all cars' likeliness are registered trademarks and copyrights of its
    
     respective owners.  All Rights Reserved.  This FAQ was created by Mark
    
     Kim in respect to Sony, Polyphony Digital, Mazda, Honda, Acura, Toyota,
    
     Mitsubishi, Aston Martin, Chevrolet, Nissan, TVR, Dodge, and Subaru
    
     Properties, as I have no intention of infringement on copyright on any
    
     of this work.
    
    
    ========================================================================
    
    GENERAL INFORMATION
    
    
    
    Make: Gran Turismo
    
    Developer: Polyphony Digital
    
    Publisher: Sony Computer Entertainment
    
    Release Date: First Quarter 1998
    
    ESRB Classification: E for Everyone, Suitable for All Ages
    
    Genre: Racing
    
    Platform: Sony PlayStation Type 1
    
    MSRP: If still available, sold at very low prices as Greatest Hits
    Recommended Controllers: Sony Analog Dual-Shock Controller
    
    Features: Memory Card Save.  Each save requires in between 1-5 blocks.
    
    
    
    ========================================================================
    
    HISTORY OF THIS FAQ
    
    
    March 27, 2005: Final Update of this FAQ, so there will be no more updates.
    
    ========================================================================
    
    CONTENTS OF THIS FAQ
    
    
    
    *  Newsflash
    
    *  My recommendations
    
    *  Car Castolization Terminology
    
    *  What is an International A Class License?
    
    *  The Eight License Tests (Fukomoto Atsushi at fukomoto@imasy.or.jp)
    
       -  High Speed Ring Attack
    
       -  Special Stage Route 5 Attack
    
       -  Grand Valley Speedway Attack
    
       -  Deep Forest Attack
    
       -  Autumn Ring Attack
    
       -  Trial Mountain Attack
    
       -  Special Stage Route 11 Attack
    
       -  Grand Valley Speedway Reverse Attack (IA License Examination)
    
    *  Gran Turismo World Cup
    
    *  Supertuned Car Championship
    
    *  Grand Valley Speedway Endurance Championship
    
    *  Special Stage Route 11 Endurance Championship with Racing Cars
    
    *  Special Stage Route 11 Endurance Championship without Racing Cars
    
    *  The Do's and Dont's
    
    *  Some Rants
    
    *  Resources and Stuff
    
    *  Acknowledgements
    
    *  One Final Warning
    
    
    
    ========================================================================
    
    NEWSFLASH
    
    
    
    ***AN IMPORTANT RANT FROM THE FAQ AUTHOR***
    
    
    
    AS YOU SHOULD HAVE NOTICED FROM MY PREVIOUS WORKS, I WILL _NOT_ BE
    
    ACCEPTING ANY E-MAILS FROM ANY WEBMASTER WHO SEEKS TO PLACE THIS FILE
    
    ON THEIR OWN WEBSITE REGARDLESS OF THE CAUSE.  THIS IS BECAUSE THERE
    
    ARE TOO MANY SITES THAT _STILL_ HAS THE OUTDATED VERSION OF MY WORKS
    
    AND I REALLY HATE TO SEE IT LURKING AROUND THE INTERNET.  THE REASON
    WHY I HAVE TO RESTRICT THE AMOUNT OF WEBSITES THAT CAN MIRROR MY WORKS
    
    IS BECAUSE I WANT TO KEEP MY WORKS CURRENT AND UP-TO-DATE.  ANY MORE
    
    E-MAILS REQUESTING PERMISSION TO MIRROR THIS FILE _WILL_ BE FILTERED.
    
    THE ONLY SITES THAT HAVE MY SEAL OF APPROVAL TO MIRROR MY WORKS ARE
    
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    EVERY OF MY WORKS.
    
    
    
    IF FOR ANY REASON YOU _DO_ MIRROR ANY OF MY WORKS ON YOUR OWN WEBSITE
    
    WITHOUT MY SEAL OF APPROVAL, INSTANT LEGAL ACTION WILL BE TAKEN
    
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    THIS HAS BEEN MY POLICY EVER SINCE I HAVE STARTED TO RESTRICT THE
    
    AMOUNT OF SITES THAT ARE PERMITTED TO MIRROR MY WORKS AND IT WILL
    
    ALWAYS BE.
    
    
    
    Note: This notice is derived on Brett "Nemesis" Franklin's Crazy Taxi
    
    FAQ for the Sega Dreamcast although there has been some variations to
    
    make this one more severe and a bit more formal. Also, I will repeat
    
    this near the end of the document.
    
    Always check http://www.gamefaqs.com for the latest version of this
    FAQ.  Like I said, this is the final update of the FAQ's life as I have
    declared an EOL on this FAQ, so there will be no more updates!!!
    
    Sorry.
    
    This document, like all Video Game FAQs on the Internet, must be
    
    viewed in a monotype font or the alignment will not be correct.  If
    
    the alignment isn't correct for any reason, then please follow these
    
    procedures:
    
    
    
    1.  On Netscape Communicator, click on Edit, then Preferences.
    
    2.  Click on Fonts at the Appearance Section
    
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        point font.
    
    4.  If you see this sample bulk of writing aligned correctly, please
    
        proceed:
    
    
    
    1234567890
    
    **********
    
    
    
    It is strongly advisable that you *do* view this document through
    
    the DOS Application Edit.COM or through the Apple Text Viewer SimpleText
    
    for alignment purposes.  If you are planning to view this through
    
    the Windows Interface, then you are highly advised to open up WordPad
    
    and then open up the Text File.  Set the font face to Courier New and
    
    set the font size to 10.
    
    
    ========================================================================
    
    RECOMMENDATIONS
    
    
    
    1.  You need to be a proud holder of the B-Class and A-Class License
    
        before getting your International A Class License.  Once you are
    
        eligible for these tests, you'll know why.
    
    
    
    2.  I recommend that you keep a straight and smooth driving line on all
    
        tests because any skidding could slow you down.  Be careful not to
    
        course-out as you will fail the test if you do so.
    
    
    
    3.  After passing the 7 tests, you'll use the Dodge Viper GTS Coupe
    
        and play your luck at the Grand Valley Speedway Reverse.  If you
    
        can pass the most difficult exam (you got the IA License!), then
    
        it's time to polish up your skills on any A-Class Special Event.
    
    
    
    4.  After placing first on all A-Class championships, then it's time
    
        to press your luck at the GT World Cup, which is laden with
    
        nuisantic Castrol Mods.  To tell these somewhat lame Castrol Mods
    
        that resistance to your superiority is futile, earn the Mitsubishi
    
        FTO Limited Edition by winning the American and Japanese Car Series
    
        or buy the Mitsubishi GTO Limited Edition for 500,000 Credits.  As
    
        an alternative, you can heavily tune and "Castrolize" either your
    
        GTO Twin Turbo or Skyline GT-R to cheese through this Cup.  You
    
        will gain access to three Gran Turismo Hi-Fi races once you place
    
        first overall in this series.  I highly recommend getting the
    
        Mitsubishi FTO LM by winning the US Versus Japan series (The prize
    
        is random so don't get mad at me if you don't get it right away)
    
        before tackling this one.  Some people might say that the TVR
    
        Cerbera LM is the best car in the game.  The Cerbera LM _IS NOT_.
    
        It's the FTO LM which is the best car in the game because it's
    
        All-Wheel Drive, and it's forgiving to use.  I'm pretty much
    
        biased to the Japanese Cars in this game.
    
    
    
    5.  To earn lots of money, buy a Dodge Viper GTS, and DON'T DO ANYTHING
    
        (tuning it up, reducing weight, or Castrolizing this car) so you can
    
        have a normal car at your garage.  Pit the Viper GTS on the oh-so-
    
        difficult Commercial Car Championship.  If you can place first on all
    
        five tracks, you should take home 350,000 credits.  If you pole
    
        position and dominate the series, then you should take home 400,000
    
        credits.
    
    
    
    6.  Since you're not allowed to bring any Castrol Mods, Toyota Castrol
    
        Supra GT, Mitsubishi GTO Limited Edition, Nissan Nismo GT-R, Mazda
    
        RX-7 Limited Edition, Subaru Impreza Rally Edition, Acura NSX-R
    
        Limited Edition, or any other "cheap" special cars (like the Dodge
    
        Viper GTS-R and my personal fav Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition) on
        the Supertuned Car Championships and on the Special Stage Route 11
    
        Endurance Championship without Racing Cars, go to the Nissan Dealer,
    
        buy a new Skyline GT-R, and heavily tune this car to the max and
    
        cut its weight down, but DON'T CASTROLIZE THE CAR.  I have to say
    
        this because you will need a non-Castrolized car to enter either
    
        the Supertuned Car Championship or the Special Stage Route 11
    
        Endurance Championship without Racing Cars (Jaz Rignall for PSM
    
        Online located at http://www.psmonline.com)
    
    
    
    7.  Gran Turismo is the most realistic racing game up to date, so I
    
        recommend that you just enjoy the game.  Although you may get pissed
    
        just because the computer races unfairly, you should try to discover
    
        new techniques or/and routines to improve your skills.  Having fun
    
        while playing Gran Turismo is the most important part that I'm asking
    
        of you.
    
    
    
    8.  It is highly recommended that you check out Jaz Rignall's Gran
        Turismo Tips, Tricks, and Guides at http://www.psmonline.com
        at least once.
    
    
    
    9.  If you don't have *at least* one at your home already, then I
    
        recommend going to your nearest authorized PlayStation Dealer to
    
        get a Dual Shock Analog Controller.  Please give your thumbs a rest
    
        by turning the Analog on to use the Left Analog Stick.  Trust me.
    
        It takes time to get used to, but once you get used to control the
    
        car with the left stick, then the control's excellent.  The most
    
        important part of the Analog Stick is that you're not numbing your
    
        thumbs too much.  This is useful on the endurance races because
    
        you're running 30-60 laps, and if you use the D-Pad too much, then
    
        you'll hurt your thumbs badly.
    
    
    
    ========================================================================
    
    CASTROLIZATION OF THE CARS
    
    
    
    When I first created this document about 2 years ago, I felt that if
    
    you modify the cars to the teeth, then the cars would definitely be
    
    unbeatable.  I was wrong.  Because each cars have its own strengths
    
    and weaknesses, beefing the cars up to maximum strength varies from
    
    car to car.  For example, a Viper GTS Coupe can't go up to NA Level
    
    3 but starts out with a lot of horsepower and torque when you first
    
    buy it.  On the other hand, some of the better cars in the game (i.e.
    
    Nissan Skyline GT-R VSpec) _can_ be beefed up to the teeth with the
    
    highest level modification parts available in the game.  Please
    
    be warned that some cars may have higher prices as far as mod parts
    
    are concerned.
    
    
    
    Usually, cars perform better when they use maximum-strength modification
    
    parts, but some cars perform better without the brute force they need.
    
    Some of the Japanese Cars (i.e. Nissan Skyline GT-R VSpec) cannot perform
    
    well unless you've placed a maximum-strength mod part or two.  That is
    
    why learning the tracks and winning them all is as important as fully
    
    tuning your cars to the teeth.
    
    
    
    Unless you are a real mechanic, you should never fiddle with some of the
    
    settings because you can either make a car unstable, stiff, or even
    
    worse, unforgiving to use.  That is why you need to think twice before
    
    even adjusting some of the car's properties (i.e. Suspension) before
    
    even attempting this risk.  That is why some cars perform better when
    
    fully Castrolized than the others.
    
    
    
    Castrolizing your car involves tuning up your car with the following
    
    Tune-Ups:
    
    
    
    * Muffler and Air Filter
    
      = Racing Muffler and Air Filter
    
    * Brakes
    
      = Sports Brakes
    
      = Brake Balance Controller
    
    * Engine Tuning
    
      = Tuned ROM
    
      = Port Polishing
    
      = Engine Balancing
    
      = Bore and Stroke-Up (Increasing Displacement)
    
    * For Turbo Cars
    
      = Turbo Kit Level 4
    
      = Racing High-Capacity Intercooler
    
    * For Normal Aspirated Cars
    
      = Normal Aspiration Tuneup Kit Level 3 (This applies ONLY to some cars)
    
    * Transmission
    
      = Racing Support Gearbox
    
      = Triple-Plate Clutch
    
      = Racing Flywheel
    
      = Carbon Driveshaft (only applies to certain cars)
    
    * Suspension
    
      = Racing Support Suspension
    
      = Any Stabilizers (Remember overstiffening your car's suspension will
    
        equate to lousy driving)
    
    * Tires
    
      = Soft/Soft Racing Tires
    
    * Others
    
      = Weight Reduction All Stages (All stages of Weight Reduction MUST be
    
        performed in order
    
      = Racing Body Modification
    
    
    
    Well, that's all I can say for now!!!
    
    
    
    ========================================================================
    
    THE VIRTUE AND THE PRIVILEDGE OF THE INTERNATIONAL A CLASS LICENSE
    
    
    
    Note: YOU MUST POSSESS AN A-CLASS LICENSE before attempting any IA-Class
    
    License Tests as stated before.  The IA Tests are the hardest so don't
    
    destroy your PlayStation if you can't do so.  Instead, follow a list
    
    of my FAQs at http://www.verasnaship.net/text/gtfaqs.html.
    
    
    
    An IA-Class License means that you've proven the Racing License Board
    
    that your a competent driver and you know how to complete the toughest
    
    track in the shortest amount of time possible.  It also means that you
    
    can participate in all events, surpassing the participation volume of
    
    both B-Class and A-Class License holders.  It also means that you're
    
    able to keep the car under control even in the harsh situations in a
    
    track, and you can handle Rear-Wheel Drive Cars efficiently. Holding the
    
    International A-Class License, you should be able to do the following
    
    according to Fukumoto Atsushi:
    
    
    
    -  Completing all the tracks in the shortest possible time
    
    -  Being capable of being a competent driver
    
    -  Being able to avoid going off the course
    
    -  Capable of driving any TVR and Dogde cars
    
    -  Having the ability of keeping a smooth driving line at all times
    
    -  Taking wicked corners without harsh sliding
    
    -  Being able to use the "Slow-In, Fast-Out" maneuver
    
    
    
    In addition to the B-Class and A-Class events that you can participate,
    
    you are entitled to participate in these events provided that you have
    
    finally earned the International A License from your hard efforts:
    
    
    
    *  The GT League:
    
       -  Gran Turismo World Cup
    
    *  Special Events:
    
       -  Great Valley Speedway 300 Mile Endurance Championship
    
       -  Special Stage Route 11 Endurance Championship with Racing Cars
    
       -  Special Stage Route 11 Endurance Championship without Racing Cars
    
       -  Supertuned Car Championship
    
    
    
    ========================================================================
    
    INTERNATIONAL A CLASS LICENSE EXAMINATIONS
    
    
    
    Note:  An A-Class License is required before you can take any of these
    
    tests.
    
    
    
    Index of tests:
    
    IA-1:  Attack the High Speed Ring with the TVR Griffith
    
    IA-2:  Attack Special Stage Route 5 with the Dodge Viper GTS
    
    IA-3:  Attack Grand Valley Speedway with the TVR Griffith
    
    IA-4:  Attack Deep Forest with the Dodge Viper
    
    IA-5:  Attack Autumn Ring with the TVR Griffith
    
    IA-6:  Attack Trial Mountain with the Dodge Viper
    
    IA-7:  Attack Special Stage Route 11 with the TVR Griffith
    
    IA-8:  Attack Grand Valley Speedway Reverse with the Dodge Viper
    
    
    
    Note:  In order to take IA-8, you must pass the first seven tests first.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    IA-1: ATTACK THE HIGH SPEED RING
    
    Test Car: TVR Griffith
    
    Time Limit: 1'07"000
    
    Prerequisite: None
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    This could possibly be the easiest of the eight license tests.  However,
    
    you need to make sure that you're not powersliding too much and that
    
    you are keeping a *smooth* driving line for as much as you can.  I don't
    
    know if *any form of cheating* would be acceptable in this test, so you
    
    *do* have to e-mail me at vgfaqs@verasnaship.net if you come up with
    
    something new.  With regards to this license test, I'll try to strike a
    
    perfect balance of speed, handling, and control as much as possible.
    
    
    
    Turn 1
    
    ------
    
    You can take this first turn at full speed.  However, during the final
    
    stretch of the turn, you'll have to be careful because the turn ends
    
    with a *surprising* sharp left, and there's bound to be *some* grass
    
    at the right side of the track.  Try not to hit the wall or touch the
    
    grass as those would be grounds for failing the test.  You can slide
    
    through the final stretch of the turn, but I consider this a pain.
    
    
    
    Turn 2
    
    ------
    
    You shouldn't be going any faster than ~100 mph while taking on this
    
    turn.  Do a *zest* braking *just before the turn starts*.  When the
    
    turn starts, you should be moving from the outside of the track and
    
    into the inside.  However, you may have to go slower, depending on the
    
    position that you start the turn.  When you exit the turn, grass will
    
    be waiting for you at both sides of the track!  What a way to go!
    
    
    
    Turns 3 and 4
    
    -------------
    
    Keep your speed under 80 mph (I mean it) when taking on these turns.
    
    Cut your speed as early as you can (but not too early nor too late)
    
    and when the turn starts, you should be moving from the outside to
    
    the inside.  When trying to cut the apex of Turn 3, it's important
    
    that you don't touch the grass (as you will instantly fail the test
    
    if you do).  Be sure that you control the TVR efficiently during all
    
    of Turn 3 because Turn 4 starts immediately after Turn 3.  I found
    
    that rapid-gas tapping would work, provided that you are not over-
    
    spinning the rear wheels and that you're not carrying the TVR into
    
    a heavy drift.  At the start of Turn 4, you may want to do some
    
    *slight* braking so that you can move from the right and into the
    
    left.  As with Turn 3, you need to keep your speed under 80 mph (but
    
    higher speeds may be possible if you are adventurous) and leaning to
    
    the left side of the track (using rapid-gas tapping and making sure
    
    to stay off the grass).  You should accelerate as the turn ends.  Be
    
    sure not to touch the "greetings" grass as you exit the turn.
    
    
    
    Turns 5 and 6
    
    -------------
    
    Go inside of the entire turn.  When the turn ends, be prepared to face
    
    Turn 6.  Brake at a straight line to ~100 mph, and take the turn from
    
    the inside of the track.  Accelerate *only* when you're confident that
    
    you'll exit the turn without further problems.  Avoid the wall at the
    
    right and the grass at the left at all costs while taking on this turn.
    
    Now finish the track and hope you are fast enough.  If so, then save
    
    this passed test on your memory card before taking another IA-Class
    
    License Test.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    IA-2: ATTACK SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 5
    
    Test Car: Dodge Viper
    
    Time Limit: 1'30"00
    
    Prerequisite: None
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    This is one of the hardest license tests in the IA-Class because you
    
    are being tested on your ability to be a competent driver to start.
    
    Second of all, you will be tested on how well you can tame the Dodge
    
    Viper on some of the lousiest turns in the track.  There's some areas
    
    that you need to worry about.  I'll try to pin-point them as I walk you
    
    along through this devilish test.
    
    
    
    Turns 1 and 2
    
    -------------
    
    You can take the first turn at full speed.  However, the second turn is
    
    where you have to cut your speed so you don't wind up scrapping the wall
    
    at the right.  By the time you end the first turn, you should have
    
    *already* braked to ~100 mph, and use some rapid gas tapping to avoid
    
    hitting the wall at the right side of the screen.  Any wide skidding
    
    is grounds for loss of speed, which is precious.  Just make sure that
    
    you don't see any Tire Smoke while taking on Turn 2.
    
    
    
    Turn 3
    
    ------
    
    You may wish to take this turn at full speed, but I wouldn't do so as
    
    this turn is *kind of* sharp.  Be sure that you are starting the turn
    
    from the outside and move deeply into the inside.  The key to take on
    
    this turn successfully is to keep a smooth racing line without having
    
    to powerslide or any unneccessary/excessive slowdown.  You should be
    
    in good shape when you take on Turn 4.
    
    
    
    Turn 4
    
    ------
    
    Slow down to ~60 mph and start the turn from the outside and move
    
    gently into the inside.  A wide skid would result in a spin-out where
    
    as starting the turn too late would be grounds for immediate fail.
    
    This is a *painful* turn, so make sure that you're not doing so much
    
    slowing down in the turn that you didn't beat this course in less
    
    than 1'30"000.
    
    
    
    Turn 5
    
    ------
    
    Provided that you have indeed taken Turn 4 with *zest*, you should
    
    be able to take this turn without much trouble and through full speed
    
    ahead.  If you were sloppy during Turn 4, then I don't know how you
    
    will be able to cope with this somewhat blind turn.
    
    
    
    Turns 6 and 7
    
    -------------
    
    You can take on this Ess without losing any speed provided that you
    
    keep a smooth racing line and that you started the turn the earliest
    
    possible.  Be careful when trying to exit out of Turn 7 because
    
    that's when you will be facing a weird straight.  Don't try to hit
    
    the railings at the left side of the track (just before Turn 8
    
    begins) as you will fail the test.
    
    
    
    Turns 8 and 9
    
    -------------
    
    The key to undertaking these turns is to cut the apex for as much as
    
    you can without any skidding or blatant slowdown.  You may wish to
    
    slide at Turn 8 and take Turn 9 at full speed but that's pretty
    
    dangerous to say because skidding takes away some precious speed
    
    and melts down your tires viciously.  Try to target your speed
    
    around ~85 mph by the time you start undertaking the first turn so
    
    that you can take the second medium turn at full speed.  You should
    
    be at the outside by the time the Hairpin begins.
    
    
    
    Turn 10
    
    -------
    
    Start this Hairpin too late and you will fail the test.  Spin out
    
    during the hairpin and you will be wasting valuable time.  Another
    
    main concern during the IA-2 Test.  Slow down to ~40 mph before you
    
    start taking on this hairpin and try to avoid any skidding as much
    
    as you can so that you can take the next two turns without too much
    
    effort.
    
    
    
    Turns 11 and 12
    
    ---------------
    
    Provided that you have taken Turn 10 with *zest*, you can take on
    
    Turn 11 without losing speed.  At Turn 12, use the out-and-in with
    
    *minimal* skidding so that you barely miss hitting the wall.
    
    
    
    Turns 13-15
    
    -----------
    
    Major concern.  You may have to slow down to below 75 mph in order
    
    to take on the first two sharps.  Make sure that you don't skid on
    
    the first two turns because you'll need every ounce of control by
    
    the time you take on Turn 15.  I would slow down somewhere around
    
    the pedestrian crossing before Turn 13 begins.  At Turn 15, you
    
    should do some skidding (though it's risky) provided that you've
    
    taken Turns 13 and 14 carefully and without any heavy skidding or
    
    spinning-out.  After you finish Turn 15, you will need to prepare
    
    to take on Turn 16.
    
    
    
    Turn 16
    
    -------
    
    Another Major concern.  You may want to start the out-and-in while
    
    taking on this turn.  You may need to speed out if you think you're
    
    going to hit the wall.  Rapid-gas-tapping's acceptable as long as
    
    you're not crazy about skidding.  Now go onto the Straightaway to
    
    the finish line and when you finish, hope that you're fast enough.
    
    Provided that you have finished this track in under 1'30"000, save
    
    the passed test on your Memory Card before going onto the Third
    
    International A-Class License Test.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    IA-3: ATTACK GRAND VALLEY SPEEDWAY
    
    Test Car: TVR Griffith
    
    Time Limit: 2'03"00
    
    Prerequisite: None
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    You'll have to make sure that you are braking at a straight line and
    
    making sure that you are using the "Slow-In, Fast-Out" technique in
    
    order to cope with some of the wicked turns you will see in this test.
    
    In order to block off an attempt to go off-track, I'm going to use a
    
    good blend of speed and handling for as much as I can.  Since the TVR
    
    Griffith may be heavy, I'm gonna force you to brake early as possible
    
    and to avoid blatant wheelspin for as much as I can.
    
    
    
    Turn 1
    
    ------
    
    Use this turn to prepare yourself for Turn 2, which is a hairpin.  Make
    
    sure by the time you *nearly* touch the straight before the hairpin
    
    starts, brake to below 60 mph so you can take on this hairpin without
    
    going off-track.
    
    
    
    Turn 2
    
    ------
    
    It's important to keep a smooth racing line for as much as you can in
    
    this hairpin because you will need every drop of control while this
    
    hairpin persists.  During this hairpin, you shouldn't be accelerating
    
    and going no faster than 55 mph.  Just a little after the middle of
    
    the hairpin, you should be accelerating, but only if you are confident
    
    enough that you won't touch the grass.
    
    
    
    Turns 3-5
    
    ---------
    
    These rather gentle turns can be taken at full speed.  However, in
    
    Turn 5, you may have to do a little drifiting because I found Turn
    
    5 to be pretty dangerous during high speed entrances.  Make sure that
    
    you have the car straightened by the time you exit Turn 5, or you'll
    
    be sorry when you enter Turn 6, which is a hairpin.
    
    
    
    Turn 6
    
    ------
    
    The key to taking on this hairpin is to go no faster than 40 mph and
    
    by keeping up a smooth racing line at all costs.  Brake preferrably
    
    just a little after the middle of the straight so you will allow some
    
    room for error, move to the left side of the track when you are done
    
    braking, and cut the turn from the outside and into the inside.  You
    
    should have the car recovered by the time you finish up taking on
    
    this tight hairpin.
    
    
    
    Turns 7 and 8
    
    -------------
    
    Cut the apex of each of the turn.  Brake just a bit so you can take
    
    on these turns without any harsh risks of going out-of-track.  I
    
    would say that you should take Turn 7 at 85 mph and Turn 8 at 65 mph
    
    and you should not do any skidding here since you are going to be
    
    spinning the rear tires blatantly.
    
    
    
    Turn 9
    
    ------
    
    Brake to 50 mph just before the turn starts.  Cut the turn from the
    
    out-and-in, and make sure that you don't wind up into a blatant skid
    
    which can overspin your rear tires.  You should have the car back to
    
    straight position just before Turns 10 and 11.
    
    
    
    Turns 10 and 11
    
    ---------------
    
    Brake to ~68 mph just before Turn 10 begins and cut Turn 10 from the
    
    out and in.  Don't acclerate or get into a heavy skid.  At Turn 11,
    
    you should not be exceeding any faster than 85 mph to avoid possible
    
    contact with the grass at the left side of the track.  I would take
    
    Turn 11 with some rapid-gas tapping.
    
    
    
    Turn 12
    
    -------
    
    Cut your speed to 100 mph just before this turn begins.  As the turn
    
    starts, use rapid gas tapping for handling and try to stay in the
    
    middle of the track for as much as you can.  You shouldn't be going
    
    any faster than 95 mph while taking on this turn.  Don't let the
    
    next straight fool you because you will have to face Turns 13 and 14
    
    sooner or later, and if you want to pass, you will need to slow down
    
    the sooner the better.
    
    
    
    Turns 13 and 14
    
    ---------------
    
    Hairpins in disguise.  Cut your speed to 40 mph just before the first
    
    hairpin begins, and make sure that you are cutting from the outside.
    
    Don't get into a blatant slide because you'll spin out if you do.
    
    At Turn 14, you should do the "Slow-in, Fast-Out" maneuver in order
    
    to cut the apex of the final hairpin.  You will need the car back to
    
    straight standing by the time you finish taking on these two turns.
    
    
    
    Turns 15 and 16
    
    ---------------
    
    Turn 15 can be taken at full speed, but at Turn 16, you should do some
    
    *slight* skidding by turning ahead of time and by cutting the apex.
    
    The key onto taking Turn 16 is to test your ability to handle a medium
    
    right turn without any blatant slowing down.  The ideal speed for Turn
    
    16 would be around 96 mph.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    IA-4: ATTACK DEEP FOREST
    
    Test Car: Dodge Viper
    
    Time Limit: 1'23"00
    
    Prerequisite: None
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    
    
    Yep, it's the track that most beginners will more likely fail because
    
    there's grass everywhere and simple grass contact will fail the test.
    
    You need to keep your Viper under control if you wish to pass the test.
    
    Face it.  You ARE outgunned.  You need to be in total control if you
    
    want to pass the test.  Now in order to help you pass this test, here's
    
    some major pointers in the track:
    
    
    
    Turn 1
    
    ------
    
    Cut your speed to under 70 mph, and take the turn from the outside and
    
    into the inside.  Be sure that you do not accelerate during the turn
    
    because you will risk going inside the grass (meaning that you fail the
    
    test if you do).
    
    
    
    Turns 2 and 3
    
    -------------
    
    Try to stay centered within these two turns, striking a good balance
    
    between speed and handling, making sure that you do not strive for
    
    lurid tailslides.  Try not to cut the apex because you may risk having
    
    the wheels touch the grass.  Turn 3 is something to worry about because
    
    you have to slow down in preparation for Turn 4.  Don't go too fast in
    
    this area because you will need all the control to make it through the
    
    next concern in the track.
    
    
    
    Turns 4 and 5
    
    -------------
    
    You shouldn't be going any faster than 65 mph on this area.  Try to
    
    keep a smooth racing line for as much as you can right over here.  Try
    
    not to get into a lurid fish tail slide because that's when you are
    
    about to touch the grass.  After Turn 5, you may have to make sure that
    
    you are staying centered in the track because you have some evil bends
    
    to take care of before the sixth major turn.  Try to remain centered
    
    in this scene, and definitely forget cutting the apex.
    
    
    
    Turns 6 and 7
    
    -------------
    
    Turn 6 can be taken with a mediocre tailslide (although I'm strongly
    
    opposed to tail slides here).  Just before Turn 7, you should have the
    
    car straightened up.  You can cut the apex at Turn 7 if you want, but
    
    make sure that you are not poised to hit the right wall by the time you
    
    enter the slight easy bends just before the eighth major turn.
    
    
    
    Turn 8
    
    ------
    
    You need to slow down ahead of time (but not too early) in order to
    
    avoid contact with the grass at your right.  Stay centered in this turn
    
    or you can cut the apex providing that you are not touching the grass
    
    at the left side of the track.
    
    
    
    Turns 9 and 10
    
    --------------
    
    The final stretch of the track.  Turn 9 can be taken at full speed (as
    
    long as you don't go bonkers cheating on the test) and Turn 10 can be
    
    taken with some sliding (provided that you are not willing to touch the
    
    grass at either the left or right side of the track).  Cross the finish
    
    line and hope that you have passed the test.  If so, then save your
    
    passed test on the memory card before going onto another test.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    IA-5: ATTACK AUTUMN RING
    
    Test Car: TVR Griffith
    
    Time Limit: 1'24"00
    
    Prerequsite: None
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    
    
    Autumn Ring is one of the tougher courses because you have to avoid any
    
    blatant cheating, as this is grounds for test failure.  Always make sure
    
    that you are going as smooth as possible, and possibly try to use the
    
    Slow-In, Fast-Out maneuver to take on harsh corners.  Cutting the Apex
    
    is acceptable as long as you don't wind up cheating on some seemingly
    
    tough corners.
    
    
    
    Turn 1
    
    ------
    
    Hairpin Right.  Slow down at a point where you can take on this hairpin
    
    at an exceptionally high speed (but just about right so you don't have
    
    to track-out all of a sudden).  Move the car from the outside and into
    
    the inside.  You should try to be at the right side of the track when
    
    Turn 2 begins.
    
    
    
    Turn 2
    
    ------
    
    You may be dizzy as you encounter this turn because you have to deal
    
    with the chicanes right after this turn.  Again, move from the outside
    
    and into the inside.  You should not be going too fast after this turn
    
    because you are about to deal with the chicanes and not be cutting on
    
    the corners too blatantly.  If you blatantly cut the corners, then you
    
    will fail the test.
    
    
    
    Turns 3 through 6
    
    -----------------
    
    Try to keep a smooth racing line so that you can cut the apex and not
    
    blatantly cut the corners.  Try to stay centered after the first chicane
    
    so that you will take on the second chicane without blatant cutoffs.
    
    Forget about accelerating here.
    
    
    
    Turn 7
    
    ------
    
    This turn can be taken apex-cutting style with some controlled skidding.
    
    You need to watch your speed and possibly slow down to where you can
    
    take on the next hairpin with control because you will be entering this
    
    hairpin at a high speed, and if you do not want to fail, don't let this
    
    straight fool you.
    
    
    
    Turn 8
    
    ------
    
    You should have remained at the left side of the track and slowed down
    
    at a point where you can take on this hairpin at a good speed, but just
    
    about enough to make sure that you don't track-out.  Cut the apex using
    
    the slow-in, fast-out method, and don't slide or you may be spinning
    
    out and possibly track-out.
    
    
    
    Turn 9
    
    ------
    
    This hairpin shouldn't be as bad as the first two hairpins.  You need
    
    to slow down so that you can cut the apex and prevent yourself from
    
    tracking-out the course.  Turn 10 is coming up, so don't get too dizzy
    
    from this turn and have the car straightened by the time you undertake
    
    Turn 10.
    
    
    
    Turn 10
    
    -------
    
    If you are adventurous, then take this turn at full speed turning
    
    early and possibly cutting the apex.  Otherwise, it will be safe to
    
    reduce your speed just right so that you can undertake this turn
    
    without having to go track-out.
    
    
    
    Turn 11
    
    -------
    
    This 235 is a killer.  You may have to cut your speed to 60 mph and
    
    possibly try to slide throughout this turn.  This is a challenging
    
    sector of the track because you need to slide without going off the
    
    track and without spinning out.  After this turn, don't let the next
    
    straight fool you because you have a chicane and a medium right coming
    
    up.
    
    
    
    Turns 12-14
    
    -----------
    
    You will need to cut your speed about right so you can cut the apex
    
    of the first turn and treat the next two turns just before the next
    
    medium right as one turn.  With regards about the chicanes, you need
    
    not cut the apex since you risk hitting the barrier or touch the grass
    
    for the least.  Don't let the next straight fool you as you need to
    
    cut your speed so you can take Turn 15 without drama.
    
    
    
    Turn 15
    
    -------
    
    Cut your speed and slide by cutting the apex on this lamer.  Make sure
    
    that you do not accelerate until after the turn.  Straighten up your
    
    car so you can take the final two turns without blatant slowdowns.
    
    
    
    Turns 16 and 17
    
    ---------------
    
    The final stretch of this track.  Turn ahead of time so that you can
    
    cut the apex and take these two turns at full speed.  Cross the finish
    
    line and hope that you were fast enough.  If you pass this test, then
    
    save this passed test on your Memory Card before going on to the next
    
    test.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    IA-6: ATTACK TRIAL MOUNTAIN
    
    Test Car: Dodge Viper
    
    Time Limit: 1'33"00
    
    Prerequisite: None
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    
    
    A good way to practice up on Trial Mountain just before the actual test
    
    is to pit a Dodge Viper GTS on a Spot Race.  You should get a good idea
    
    on what you are expected to do for the actual test.  Afterwards, it's
    
    time to see if you can bring your skills up to level at this test.
    
    
    
    Turns 1 and 2
    
    -------------
    
    Take these turns at full speed, making sure that you are turning ahead
    
    of time, and that you are cutting the apex.  Be sure you have the Viper
    
    straightened up before Turns 3 and 4.
    
    
    
    Turns 3 and 4
    
    -------------
    
    Turn 3 can be taken at full speed using out-and-in.  Be sure that you
    
    are turning ahead of time or you may be touching the grass (No touching
    
    or propositioning of the ladies!!!!!  The grass reminds me of the ladies
    
    for personal reasons during a license test.).  Don't let the bend fool
    
    you because you need to slow down if you want to take on Turn 4 without
    
    drama.  By the time you take on Turn 4, you should slow down to under
    
    70 mph, cut the apex from the out-and-in, and as you fast-out of Turn 4
    
    (provided that you are NOT TOUCHING THE GRASS), make sure you line up
    
    at the left side of the track to take on Turn 5.
    
    
    
    Turn 5
    
    ------
    
    Don't let the straight fool you.  Turn 5 is sharp, meaning that you
    
    need to take this turn at no faster than 55 mph, cutting the apex, and
    
    not accelerating until after the turn.  Sloppy driving throughout this
    
    turn are grounds for immediate fail.  Be sure that you have the car
    
    straightened up as you take on the two slight bends before Turn 6.
    
    
    
    Turns 6 and 7
    
    -------------
    
    The preferred speed to undertaking Turn 6 is 85 mph with some out-and-in
    
    before the tunnel.  Turn 7 should be taken at between 75-80mph and you
    
    should make sure that you are cutting the apex, slowing down just before
    
    you exit the tunnel, and cutting as you leave the tunnel.  Have the car
    
    straightened and enjoy the straight while it lasts.
    
    
    
    Turn 8
    
    ------
    
    Slow down to about roughly 70 mph (adjust depending on your experience)
    
    as you see the turn coming up from the straight and take this turn from
    
    the right and land into the left of the turn.  Don't accelerate until
    
    after the turn.
    
    
    
    Turns 9-11
    
    ----------
    
    Cut the apex of each of the turns, but Turn 11 is where you'll have to
    
    do your worry-abouties.  Slow down to 70 mph before Turn 11 starts,
    
    cut the apex (don't touch the grass), and fast-out while straightening
    
    up your car before Turn 12 comes to play.
    
    
    
    Turn 12
    
    -------
    
    You will be carrying a better deal of speed if you slow down to around
    
    70 mph ahead of time and using the In and out technique to take this
    
    hairpin.  Be sure that you are staying clear of the grass if you decide
    
    to stay low with this one.
    
    
    
    Turns 13 and 14
    
    ---------------
    
    The ideal speed to taking these turns is 106 mph with some apex-cutting.
    
    Cut your speed after you pass the Bridgestone Tunnel in a straight line,
    
    then cut the apex like you usually do.  If done correctly, then you don't
    
    have to worry about touching the grass (ladies in my case).  Gotta be
    
    careful if your Viper takes a dip because if you take this dip, be
    
    prepared to spin-out of control and possibly fail the test.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    IA-7: ATTACK SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11
    
    Test Car: TVR Griffith
    
    Time Limit: 2'14"00
    
    Prerequisite: None
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    
    
    This is a tough test because you will have to deal with one of the most
    
    painful courses I have to think about.  Also, it's important that you
    
    try not to fishtail your car as you may get into a heavy spinout as you
    
    take on certain turns.  It's important to slow down at a certain point
    
    if you are bidding to pass the test.
    
    
    
    Turn 1
    
    ------
    
    Take this one at full speed.  Don't let the slight straightaway fool
    
    you as the next turn is sharp.
    
    
    
    Turn 2
    
    ------
    
    Approach this turn as speed, and brake at a straight line from the left
    
    side of the track.  As soon as you reach a desirable speed, slide (but
    
    don't acclerate), cut the apex (but don't front-out the barrier), and
    
    straighten up the car before Turns 3 and 4.
    
    
    
    Turns 3 and 4
    
    -------------
    
    Take Turn 3 at full speed and immediately slide Turn 4, making sure
    
    that you straighten up the car before Turns 5 and 6.
    
    
    
    Turns 5 and 6
    
    -------------
    
    Approach Turn 5 by braking at a straight line, and slide Turn 5 without
    
    accelerating.  Straighten up the car before Turn 6 comes, and do the
    
    same thing with Turn 6 (but you may have to hit the wall, but hopefully
    
    you shouldn't be able to front-up the barrier if you slide just in time).
    
    
    
    Turn 7
    
    ------
    
    A good way to cheat on this hairpin (I call this cheating on a lady) is
    
    to line up your car at the left side of the track, and rub your car at
    
    the left.  It may be necessary to do a little sliding to avoid any
    
    sudden instant fail of the test.
    
    
    
    Turns 8 and 9
    
    -------------
    
    Hopefully, your car is straightened up by the time you are taking these
    
    two turns.  Turn 8 can be taken at full speed.  Slide slightly at Turn
    
    9 to prevent an immediate fail, and try to rub your right tires at the
    
    right wall (line up the car at the wall before doing this), and have the
    
    car back in your control before Turns 10-13.
    
    
    
    Turns 10-13
    
    -----------
    
    Fronting the barriers here will result in an immediate fail.  It is
    
    important to keep yourself under control while taking on this chicane.
    
    Ease up and try to keep a straight line to minimize the loss of control
    
    in this area.
    
    
    
    Turns 14 and 15
    
    ---------------
    
    Take these turns at full speed, and definitely don't let the straight
    
    fool you as Turns 16 and 17 (a deadly chicane) are coming up.
    
    
    
    Turns 16 through 18
    
    -------------------
    
    Approach Turn 16 by braking to 60 mph ahead of time.  Slide Turn 16 and
    
    take on Turn 17 the same way.  You should have the car straightened up
    
    by the time Turn 18 starts.  Try to stay low in Turn 18 for as much as
    
    you can.
    
    
    
    Turn 19
    
    -------
    
    Try to brake during the slight left bent before the hairpin begins.
    
    Start sliding when you are ready.  You may have to rub the wall a little
    
    bit (but hopefully, you've slided to prevent yourself from fronting the
    
    barrier too soon).
    
    
    
    Turns 20 and 21
    
    ---------------
    
    Try to slide during these two turns, and definitely right after Turn 21,
    
    straighten up the car (don't spin-out, though) and get ready to cheat
    
    on Turn 22.
    
    
    
    Turn 22
    
    -------
    
    Align the wheels at the left side of the track.  Rub the wheels while the
    
    hairpin is in progress.  Be sure that the car straightens up right after
    
    the hairpin.
    
    
    
    Turns 23 and 24
    
    ---------------
    
    As soon as you see some of the Red showing up on this deadly chicane,
    
    brake to 50 mph.  You should be ready to take on this crap chicane as
    
    soon as this turn starts.  Hopefully you are lined up at the left side
    
    of the track as the turn starts because you need to do some apex-cutting
    
    if you want to pass, but if not, then I have no clue on how you will be
    
    able to pass this test.
    
    
    
    Turn 25
    
    -------
    
    Stay low on this turn as much as you can.  Cross the finish line and
    
    hope that you are fast enough!!!  If so, then save this passed test on
    
    the Memory Card!!!
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    IA-8: ATTACK GRAND VALLEY SPEEDWAY REVERSE (IA-CLASS EXAMINATION)
    
    Test Car: Dodge Viper
    
    Time Limit: 1'59"00
    
    Prerequisite: Must complete the first seven IA-Class License Tests
    
    first.
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    
    
    You have to complete the first seven IA-Class License Tests before you
    
    can attack Grand Valley Speedway Reverse.  There's a lot of unfamiliar
    
    turns and strange twists so you will need to compete in a mock Time
    
    Trial using an unmodified Dodge Viper GTS before taking this test for
    
    practice.  Try to keep a smooth racing line and definitely forget any
    
    drifting in this course for speed.
    
    
    
    Turns 1 and 2
    
    -------------
    
    Approach this turn cutting your speed to under 120 mph.  Stay low for as
    
    much as you can for this turn.  Turn 2 is a piece of cake, but don't let
    
    this turn fool you as you need the control if you want to take on Turns
    
    3 and 4 without drama.
    
    
    
    Turns 3 and 4
    
    -------------
    
    Try to cut your speed as early as you can before Turn 3 starts.  The
    
    ideal speed overall on this deadly chicane is 40 mph.  Try to keep a
    
    smooth racing line for as much as you can because Turn 2 is long and
    
    tends to dizzy you out as Turn 3 starts.  Touching the wall at the
    
    right too long during Turn 3 results in immediate fail of the test.
    
    
    
    Turn 5
    
    ------
    
    Cut your speed slightly so that you will avoid any foreign front-ups
    
    during this turn.  Be sure that you are keeping a smooth racing line
    
    in this turn in preparation for the straight.
    
    
    
    Turn 6
    
    ------
    
    The best time to slow down on this turn is when you are exiting the
    
    drawbridge.  As the turn begins, try to slide (it's dangerous), and
    
    definitely have the car straightened up at Turn 7.
    
    
    
    Turn 7
    
    ------
    
    Very dangerous turn.  You may have to slow down to 65 mph, stay low
    
    throughout most of the turn, and forget accelerating until after the
    
    turn.
    
    
    
    Turn 8
    
    ------
    
    The best time to slow down to 50 mph is right after the gentle left
    
    bend terminates.  You must keep your foot off the gas if you want
    
    to slow down in a jiffy.  Take this turn in-and-out style.  Make
    
    sure that you are lined up at the left side and forget about speeding
    
    up until after the turn because if you are too sloppy in this one,
    
    then you'll fail the test.
    
    
    
    Turns 9 and 10
    
    --------------
    
    While trying to slow down to a speed that enables you to go fast
    
    enough to commence an under 119-second finish, try to stay low on
    
    these two while maintaining control of the car.
    
    
    
    Turn 11
    
    -------
    
    Slow down to 40 mph ahead of time before the turn starts.  Make sure
    
    that you are at the right side of the track before the hairpin starts.
    
    Cut the apex and straighten up the car so that you will be able to take
    
    on Turns 12-14 without drama.
    
    
    
    Turns 12-14
    
    -----------
    
    Cut the apex on each of these turns, and be careful of any possible dips
    
    that may exist on these turns.  You can take on these turns if you are
    
    careful enough.
    
    
    
    Turn 15
    
    -------
    
    Hardest of the turns because you're entering this turn at speeds of up
    
    to 135mph.  Slow down just before the side-slanting begins.  Have your
    
    gas off the pedal and almost immediately brake.  You should be lined up
    
    at the right side of the track and when your speed reaches 60 mph, cut
    
    the apex, and don't accelerate until after the hairpin.  Now you should
    
    be able to finish up GVS without any further problems.  Cross the finish
    
    line and hope you are fast enough!!!  If so, then save your IA-Class
    
    License on your Memory Card, and enjoy all the International A Class
    
    Events.
    
    
    
    ========================================================================
    
    GRAN TURISMO WORLD CUP
    
    Number of Tracks: 6
    
    Laps per Track: 3
    
    Required Class License: IA-Class
    
    Restriction of Car Type: None
    
    Tracks involved: High Speed Ring, Trial Mountain (ass-spanking time!),
    
    Grand Valley Speedway, Special Stage Route 5, Deep Forest (grass time!),
    
    and Special Stage Route 11 (hardest of the 11 tracks in the game).  If
    
    you don't believe me, then please read Stephen Rhee's FAQ at this URL:
    
    
    
    -  http://www.mit.edu/mystery/www/gtfaq.txt
    
    
    
    Pole Position Bonus: 10000 Credits
    
    Finish First in the Track Bonus: 20000 Credits
    
    Series Winner Bonus: 50000 Credits
    
    Car you get for winning the race: Gran Turismo Hi-Fi in the Special
    
    Event Menu (Not a car, but an addy you get for beating Gran Turismo!)
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    Vestiroth's note: This is IMHO the hardest class in Gran Turismo.  You
    
    will be racing against Castrol Mods galore, but the cars aren't as
    
    severe as with some of the special events requiring an IA-Class License
    
    you'll be participating on later on your career.  Even though this seems
    
    to be hard, here's some suggestions that you should follow in order to
    
    blow away the seemingly hard cars (though you may not be able to pole
    
    position on all courses):
    
    
    
    1.  Participate in the Japanese and American Sports Car Championships,
    
        and win the series two consecutive times.  You *should* get the
    
        Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition and the Dodge Viper GTS-R.  As soon
    
        as you get these strong cars, save them on the Memory Card before
    
        throwing the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition to the Japanese and
    
        British Sports Car Championships.
    
    
    
    2.  Participate in the Japanese and British Sports Car Championships
    
        using the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition that you won during the
    
        Japanese and American Sports Car Championships.  Win the series
    
        two *consecutive* times to earn the Honda Civic Del Sol Limited
    
        Edition and the TVR Cerbera Limited Edition.  Dump the Civic Del
    
        Sol back to Honda and save your Cerbera Limited Edition on your
    
        memory card.  I hate Honda Cars (with the exception of the Acura
    
        Integra Type R).  They all suck (IMO).  After saving the TVR on your
    
        Memory Card, then blow the competition to a crisp at the British and
    
        Anerican Car Championship.
    
    
    
    3.  Participate in the American and British Car Championship by either
    
        using the Dodge Viper GTS-R or the TVR Cerbera Limited Edition (I
    
        prefer the TVR Cerbera Limited Edition).  Blow the Competition away
    
        two consecutive times and earn either The Mazda RX-7 A-Spec
        Limited Edition or my most personally hated car in the game: The
        Chrysler Concept Car.  Neither of these cars are either good or
        my favorites.
    
    
    
    4.  Provided that you *have* passed the most difficult exams Gran Turismo
    
        has to offer (saving your IA-License on your Memory Card) and that
    
        you *do* have three of my personal favorites in the game: (Mitsubishi
    
        FTO Limited Edition, Dodge Viper GTS-R, and TVR Cerbera Limited
    
        Edition), it's time to blow the competition away at the Gran Turismo
    
        World Cup!
    
    
    
    5.  For this guide, I'm going to use my favorite car--YES, that's the
        Mitsubishi FTO LM.  Some think that it's not the best car in the
        game, but actually, it's one of my favorite cars in the game, and
        also one of the most forgiving cars to use.
    
    
    
    6.  Fiddle up your settings that you can be prepared to take on the
    
        crappiest situations in the series.  You need to make sure that your
    
        settings are up to par with the competition.  For the least, make
    
        sure that you have your brakes on both sides to Level 15, and have
    
        your Gear Ratio adjusted so that your speed goes up to AT LEAST 190
    
        mph on straightaways.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    HIGH SPEED RING
    
    
    
    This is a course where Toyota Castrol Supras, Nissan Skylines, and other
    
    cars that have high top speed do the most damage in.  Make sure that you
    
    configure your car so that you can max out your Top Speed but make sure
    
    that you have some handling in mind because there are some sharp turns
    
    in this track if you forgot.  A smooth racing line is all you need to
    
    win this race.
    
    
    
    Turn 1
    
    ------
    
    Take this turn at full speed.  Be sure at the final stretch of the turn
    
    that you *slightly* slow down so you don't have to worry about hitting
    
    the wall at the right by the time the turn ends.
    
    
    
    Turn 2
    
    ------
    
    You may want to brake as late as possible so that you can skid here at
    
    higher speeds.  Be sure that you are taking this turn out-and-in, and
    
    by the time you leave the turn, you should prepare for Turns 3 and 4
    
    without much trouble.  Have the car straightened.
    
    
    
    Turns 3 and 4
    
    -------------
    
    You may have to do some *blatant* slow down here since these turns are
    
    the most dangerous turns in the track.  I would cut my speed to around
    
    90 mph so I won't be touching the grass or hitting the wall.  Try to
    
    do some rapid gas tapping in this area.  A feel of the gas is required
    
    to ensure control of the Mitsubishi GTO at all costs.
    
    
    
    Turn 5
    
    ------
    
    Provided that you took Turns 3 and 4 without any blatant trouble, this
    
    would be a good place to prepare for Turn 6.  Stay to the right side
    
    of the track, making sure that you *barely* miss the grass at the right
    
    side of the track.  When Turn 6 starts, you should try to slow down in
    
    a straight line and start taking Turn 6 from the outside and into the
    
    inside.
    
    
    
    Turn 6
    
    ------
    
    Provided that you have slowed down to ~120 mph, you can take this turn
    
    without having to release the gas pedal.  Make sure that you speed out
    
    if necessary if you feel that you're going to get closer to the wall
    
    at the right.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    TRIAL MOUNTAIN
    
    
    
    Since you will be taking on a track with many slants, chances are that
    
    you may need to play around with the Suspension Settings in order to
    
    settle down for a smooth ride at Trial Mountain.  Also, you may need to
    
    increase the strength of Brakes on both Front and Rear so that you can
    
    take on hairpins and allow some error for some of the bizarre corners.
    
    
    
    Turn 1&2
    
    --------
    
    Take the left turn from the out and in, making sure that you're turning
    
    ahead of time.  Please be aware that you may bounce when you try to cut
    
    the apex on the first part of the ess so be prepared to keep a firm
    
    grip of the steering wheel.  The second part of the ess can be taken at
    
    full speed provided that you've been under control of your car at the
    
    first part of the ess.  For control, I wouldn't go any faster than ~120
    
    mph with some *controlled* steering applied here.
    
    
    
    Turns 3&4
    
    ---------
    
    You should be able to take Turn 3 at full speed.  However, when you
    
    undertake Turn 4, you should try to prepare to take Turn 5 so you don't
    
    end up hitting the wall or grass after the tunnel.  Try to cut your
    
    speed as soon as you get a fair view of the tunnel so you don't skid
    
    too hard.
    
    
    
    Turn 5
    
    ------
    
    You shouldn't be going any faster than ~60 mph-~70 mph while inside the
    
    tunnel.  Be sure that you do not accelerate until after the turn.  Now
    
    I will have to warn you that *you will be taking a dip* right after
    
    this turn so you will need to keep a firm grip of your car providing
    
    that you finish undertaking this turn.
    
    
    
    Turn 6
    
    ------
    
    Don't ever, ever, ever go any faster than ~50 mph because if you do,
    
    then you could either hit the wall or mown the grass (something that
    
    you don't want to do).  Slow down as you are taking a slight dip, then
    
    begin drifting as soon as you get to your desired speed.  Try to take
    
    the turn from the out-and-in so you will have a great deal of speed to
    
    chew in by the time you exit this turn.  If you get inside the grass,
    
    make sure that you get out of this grass as soon as you can.  Please
    
    don't accelerate until after the turn.
    
    
    
    Turns 7&8
    
    ---------
    
    You can take these turns at full speed, but make sure that you're
    
    alert of Turn 9, which comes up shortly after this gentle ess.  Cut
    
    your speed as soon as you exit out of Turn 8.
    
    
    
    Turn 9
    
    ------
    
    Cut your speed to ~90 mph ahead of time and as the turn starts, you
    
    should try to skid as much as you can during this turn (although you
    
    shouldn't do this because you're melting the tires).  Once you're in
    
    the tunnel, you should try to prepare to undertake Turn 10 so that
    
    you're not so wrapped up in your success of undertaking this turn.
    
    
    
    Vestiroth:  On Trial Mountain, you should not be overconfident after
    
    you undertake any turn successfully because there's bound to be turns
    
    following the next, which makes this course a test of racing prowess.
    
    
    
    Turn 10
    
    -------
    
    Brake to no less than 80 mph and start skidding inside to the next
    
    tunnel.  Although this turn isn't difficult, you need to be sliding
    
    and your speed must not be exceeding 85 mph by all means.  Please
    
    make sure that your taking this turn as early as possible so you'll
    
    have some speed to chew from at the long straightaway.
    
    
    
    Vestiroth:  Trust me.  You'll hate the Impreza Rally Edition for its
    
    160 mph barrier after driving this lamer on the straight before Turn
    
    11.
    
    
    
    Turn 11
    
    -------
    
    The best time to cut your speed is when you see some sections of this
    
    rather sharp turn.  When the turn's about to start, you should be at
    
    no more than 90 mph, skidding throughout most of the turn, and never
    
    accelerating until after the turn.  If you can go inside the yellow
    
    OSHA lane, then it's a good thing because you're attempting to keep
    
    a smooth racing line, something that's important in Gran Turismo.
    
    
    
    Turns 12&13
    
    -----------
    
    Since you're inside a four-wheel driver, you should have no problem
    
    keeping a smooth racing line in preparation of Turn 14.  Turn 13
    
    seems to be more dangerous than Turn 12 because the turn's sharper
    
    than in Turn 12, but the turn shouldn't be too bad providing that
    
    you're alert of the turn at all times.
    
    
    
    Turn 14
    
    -------
    
    Ancient words of wisdom:  Don't go any faster than 70 mph.  Cut
    
    your speed as soon as you finish Turn 13 (but don't brake the car
    
    that you're slanting to the left side of the track).  Cut the apex
    
    but don't go inside the grass.  Try to skid as much as you can in
    
    this hairpin.  By the time you get out of this turn, you should have
    
    barely missed the edge of the track, and you should have the car
    
    straightened.  Don't let the straight fool you because you're about
    
    to face yet ANOTHER HAIRPIN in the *blue*.
    
    
    
    Turn 15
    
    -------
    
    You will be carrying a good amount of speed if you try to keep a smooth
    
    line as much as you can in this turn.  Try not to drift because not
    
    only you will burn and melt the tires, but you risk going inside the
    
    grass which you don't want to do.  So keep a smooth racing line.  Slow
    
    down as soon as you see some sections of the hairpin (but don't slow
    
    down too early).  Take the turn from the outside and into the inside.
    
    You shouldn't be going any faster than ~70 mph.  By the time you exit
    
    the turn, you should be accelerating and staying alert of the final
    
    ess, which IMHO is the worst part of Trial Mountain.
    
    
    
    Turns 16&17
    
    -----------
    
    Don't go any faster than 110 mph here.  Try to cut both Esses from the
    
    out and in, making sure that you turn ahead of time to avoid any dipping
    
    and jumping (which is unnessary) from the brink of error.  The best time
    
    to slow down is just a *little* after you pass the tunnel.  Keep the car
    
    straight whenever you slow down because if you slant the car while you
    
    brake, you may end up screwing up big time!
    
    
    
    Vestiroth:  This is the horrible area of the game because there's grass
    
    on both sides of the ess, and you may take an unneccessary jump if you
    
    go inside the grass and eventually lose control, so don't take this ess
    
    at full speed.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    GRAND VALLEY SPEEDWAY
    
    
    
    Hopefully you've got a good idea on how to use an All Wheel Drive Car
    
    (either a Subaru Impreza Rally Edition or a Mitsubishi GTO Limited
    
    Edition) from the GT Cup.  If not, then no big deal.  The only contrast
    
    is that you won't be able to Pole Position on this track unless you
    
    learn how to pilot an All Wheel Drive Car.  Before you perform a Free
    
    Run Session, make sure that you set the Brakes to Level 15 because
    
    you will need to cut your speed drastically if you want to allow some
    
    room for error here.
    
    
    
    Turn 1
    
    ------
    
    Being dizzy right after starting will make you uncomfortable on the
    
    second turn, which is a hairpin.  You'll want to cut your speed as soon
    
    as you finish up taking on the gentle left so that you'll have your
    
    speed *reasonably* reduced by the time you take on the first hairpin
    
    turn in the track.
    
    
    
    Turn 2
    
    ------
    
    If you were able to cut your speed (I recommend releasing the gas pedal
    
    and by the time you hit the *slight* straight brake to ~60 mph and do
    
    some sliding) as you were taking on the first turn in preparation of
    
    this hairpin, then great.  If not, then be prepared to either touch
    
    the dirt or deal with a spinout!  It's important that you cut your
    
    speed (if you're going over 120 mph at the start of Turn 1) as early
    
    as Turn 1, and start reacting by the time you reach Turn 2 so you can
    
    allow some room for error by the time you reach the next straight, a
    
    gateway to a rather gruesome S-curve coming up.
    
    
    
    Turns 3-5
    
    ---------
    
    Although this Ess can be taken at full speed, be aware that you'll
    
    need to probably be sliding on Turn 5 in order to avoid any unwanted
    
    dipping and contact with the racing slant at the left or right side
    
    of the track.  If you did not turn ahead of time at Turn 5, then
    
    you're bound to touch some grass, and eventually wind up spinning out
    
    of control.  You'll need to be in good shape when you take on Turn 6, a
    really naughty hairpin.
    
    
    
    Turn 6
    
    ------
    
    Ancient words of wisdom:  Slow down ahead of time for control.  By the
    
    start of the hairpin, your speed shouldn't be exceeding 42 mph.  Take
    
    the hairpin from the outside and slowly move to the inside, but don't
    
    touch the slant as you'll take an unwanted dip right there.  Don't let
    
    the next straight fool you as you'll have to take on a rather *sharp*
    
    left.
    
    
    
    Turn 7
    
    ------
    
    I would slide this lamer and start sliding from the outside of the
    
    turn and work my way to the inside, making sure that my wheels are
    
    *next* to the slant, but not touching it.  I should be staying near
    
    the leftmost side of the track when I finish this turn because Turn
    
    8 is coming up.
    
    
    
    Turn 8
    
    ------
    
    As with Turn 7, I would slide and take this turn from the outside and
    
    work my way to the inside, making sure that my wheels are near the
    
    slant (but not touching it), and continue to stay near the rightmost
    
    side of the track because Turn 9 is coming up, and believe me, Turn 9
    
    is a sharp left (a carryover from the Sunday Cup and all other B-Class
    
    Races).  Turn 8 is indeed a lot deadlier than Turn 7 so you may have
    
    to go slower on this turn as opposed to Turn 7.
    
    
    
    Turn 9
    
    ------
    
    Deadly Sharp Left.  Before you enter this turn, make sure that you're
    
    not going any faster than ~50 mph.  Start the turn from the outside,
    
    work your way inside.  If you performed this turn correctly, then you
    
    should *barely* miss the wall.  If you took this turn lousy, then be
    
    prepared to hit the wall or spin out.  Try not to slide here because
    
    that's where beginners tend to overspeed and overslide, causing major
    
    spinouts and problems that may show your vulnerability towards your
    
    opponents.
    
    
    
    Turn 10
    
    -------
    
    As deadly as this painfully sharp left may seem, it seems to be a *bad*
    
    hairpin in disguise (but shouldn't be that bad).  Try to slow down as
    
    early as you can so you don't have to overslide and spin out on this
    
    turn.  I would say that ~60 mph would be safe (safe enough to avoid the
    
    grass at the right), though my experimentation's been limited.  If you
    
    are going too fast or skidding too sloppy, then a nice Tunnel Wall is
    
    waiting for you at the start of Turn 11.
    
    
    
    Turn 11
    
    -------
    
    If you have taken Turn 10 neatly, great.  At Turn 11, don't go any
    
    slower than 90 mph.  I would slide throughout the turn and possibly
    
    use a *little* rapid gas tapping so that I don't accelerate until
    
    after the turn finishes and the straightaway begins.  Use the straight
    
    before Turn 12 efficiently because at Turn 12, you'll have to cut your
    
    speed *just a little* before the straight terminates.
    
    
    
    Turn 12
    
    -------
    
    Is your speed cut to ~110 by the time the turn started?  Well, do some
    
    *controlled* rapid gas tapping as the turn keeps "going and going" and
    
    refrain from accelerating until the turn ends.  Failure to do this will
    
    result in rail contact at the left, which may damage your tires.
    
    
    
    Turns 13 and 14
    
    ---------------
    
    No matter what kind of Gran Turismo Player you consider yourself, this
    
    is something to worry about in Grand Valley Speedway.  Cut your speed
    
    to ~74 mph *as* you enter the first turn.  Drift throughout the first
    
    turn using out-and-in.  You should not be going over ~60 mph on average
    
    during the first turn, although I'm saying ~74 mph (you lose speed as
    
    you slide).  On Turn 14, cut your speed to around ~50 mph, take the turn
    
    from the out-and-in, and refrain from accelerating until after you
    
    complete this turn.  You should be at around ~40 mph by the time your
    
    at the final stretch (You tend to lose lots of speed here, so don't go
    
    too fast as these turns are hairpins in nature).
    
    
    
    Turn 15
    
    -------
    
    The key here is to take this turn without any unneccessary slowing down
    
    or having to touch the grass on either side.  I would say that ~130 mph
    
    with some sliding (assuming that you started turning as the turn starts)
    
    would be safe enough to avoid the slant and grass at the left.  On the
    
    second and third lap, you'll need to be careful when taking on Turns 1
    
    and 2 because you may be at about 175 mph (on Class A Cars) by the time
    
    you enter this area once again.  Don't act like a drunk driver in this
    
    track because the competition's much more powerful than the Gran Turismo
    
    Cup.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 5
    
    
    
    Although you can leave the settings alone, I recommend that you set the
    
    brakes on both side to Level 15.  You may have to increase the Downforce
    
    and stiffen up the Suspension if you think a stiff ride is what you may
    
    need.  Otherwise, the brake adjustment should be enough to keep you
    
    competitive.
    
    
    
    Turn 1
    
    ------
    
    Although you can take this turn in full speed, you need to start your
    
    slowing down as early as this turn so you can take Turn 2 without having
    
    to hit the wall, which wears out your tires.  It's important that you
    
    slow down as early as Turn 1 so you will not be hitting the tunnel wall
    
    or slanting the car at an unnecessary position during Turn 2.
    
    
    
    Turn 2
    
    ------
    
    Since I'm riding on the Subaru Impreza Rally Edition, I would say that
    
    115 mph would be a safe speed.  Rapid tap the gas pedal so you don't
    
    wind up scrapping the right wall.  You might have to apply some braking
    
    if appropriate.
    
    
    
    Turn 3
    
    ------
    
    Take the turn from the out-and-in.  Controlled braking should keep your
    
    car under control and prepared for Turn 4.  As long as you skid, you
    
    should not be hitting the wall.  If you are inside by the time Turn 3
    
    starts, then I don't have an idea on how you will be able to cope with
    
    the turn.
    
    
    
    Turn 4
    
    ------
    
    Slow ahead of time by braking hard as the turn begins, skid as much
    
    as you can, but don't skid too much here because Turn 5 is coming up,
    
    and you want to take this turn as smooth as you can.  I would say the
    
    ideal speed here would be ~70 mph with some skidding, but that would
    
    throw you at the inside by the time you reach Turn 5, so you have to
    
    adjust your tactic on this crappy turn depending on your own personal
    
    experience.
    
    
    
    Turn 5
    
    ------
    
    Providing that you have taken Turn 4 smoothly, this turn can be taken
    
    with some acceleration.  If you taken Turn 4 horribly, then I don't
    
    have a friggin' clue on how you'll be able to take this turn.
    
    
    
    Turns 6&7
    
    ---------
    
    This ess can be taken at full speed providing that you are turning
    
    ahead of time and providing that you are taking the turn from the
    
    out-and-in.  Please try to keep a smooth racing line here because
    
    this turns out to be one of the areas where beginners lose control.
    
    You need to be careful not to hit the railing by the time you complete
    
    Turn 7 because if you do, then you'll be sorry.
    
    
    
    Turns 8&9
    
    ---------
    
    The following two turns can be taken with some controlled skidding.
    
    You should try to brake hard ahead of time at Turn 8 so that you don't
    
    hit the left wall.  Make sure that your car is in good shape so that
    
    you can skid Turn 9 without any problems.  Taking the turns out-and-in
    
    style is OK as long as you don't start the turn too early, which may
    
    cause a spin-out.
    
    
    
    Turn 10
    
    -------
    
    Killer Hairpin.  Brake *HARD* so you can take this hairpin without
    
    hitting the wall.  Don't undertake this hairpin too early or that
    
    mistake would mean your last.  Don't skid as you may risk hitting the
    
    wall at the right.  I would say that 40 mph without skidding would be
    
    safe.  Don't use full acceleration until after you pass the hairpin.
    
    
    
    Turn 11
    
    -------
    
    You may wish to accelerate in this turn, but IMHO you need to be
    
    skidding here so you don't have to hit the wall at the left side of
    
    the track, so be prepared to drift as you accelerate back to your
    
    usual speed.  By the time you are about to reach Turn 12, you should
    
    have the car straightened so you can drift once again without any
    
    trouble.
    
    
    
    Turn 12
    
    -------
    
    Take this turn from the out-and-in, and drift with zest so you don't
    
    hit the wall at the left or lose any much needed control.  It's
    
    important that you have the car straightened up by the time you meet
    
    up with the worst area in the track--THE FINAL STRETCH!!!!
    
    
    
    Turns 13-15
    
    -----------
    
    Worst part of the track.  You need to slow down as early as the
    
    painted crosswalk so you can set up for Turn 15, which is a rather
    
    nasty right.  Try not to go any faster than 60 mph on the first two
    
    turns, and when you are about to take Turn 15, you need to be drifting
    
    with zest and not accelerating until you have the car straightened up
    
    but I find this part to be pretty nasty because your timing may be poor
    
    by the time you enter this area.  This part really demands good timing
    
    and practice in order to avoid hitting the walls during the triangle.
    
    
    
    Turn 16
    
    -------
    
    Pretty long Medium Right.  You may need to do some skidding, or you
    
    may not go any faster than 85 mph because this seems to be sharper than
    
    I thought.  You can skid, as long as you don't go too fast.  Don't try
    
    to accelerate until after the turn and after you have the car back to
    
    stance.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    DEEP FOREST
    
    
    
    Hopefully, you've set up your brakes to Level 15 because there's bound
    
    to be some weird corridors that you may have to brake on.  You may also
    
    want to set up your downforce, ride height, and suspension in order to
    
    settle down for a smooth ride, but make sure that you are setting up
    
    your Suspension and Downforce so you can commit good handling on this
    
    track as well because you will be facing plenty of tight turns backed
    
    up by some grass!
    
    
    
    Turn 1
    
    ------
    
    Sharp hairpins aren't my idea of a first turn.  Cut your speed
    
    during the two hairpin signs and if you don't want to skid, don't go any
    
    faster than 60 mph, but if you want to skid, then you may want to say
    
    about 70 mph, although my experimentation is rather limited.
    
    
    
    Turns 2&3
    
    ---------
    
    Keep you car under control, and definitely stay off the grass at the
    
    left and right side of the screen because that's when your worries
    
    begin.  Turn 3 is more sarcastic than Turn 2, so you may have to slow
    
    down at either Turn 2 or 3 to keep your car under control.  However,
    
    you will have to worry about Turn 4 because Turn 4 is a rather *sharp*
    
    left that you have to chew on, and you got a killer tunnel coming up
    
    just before Turn 5.
    
    
    
    Turn 4
    
    ------
    
    Cut your speed *immediately* after you exit Turn 3, but don't slant
    
    the wheels to the left because you'll hit the wall and touch the grass
    
    so make sure that you're slanting the front wheels to the right as you
    
    prepare for this turn.  You need to be going no faster than 65 mph and
    
    you should try to drift as much as you can in order to avoid any grass
    
    contact and possibly a hit right at the tunnel entrance wall, which
    
    causes serious delays.
    
    
    
    Turn 5
    
    ------
    
    You should be ready to drift from this corner as soon as you are about
    
    to exit the tunnel.  Cut your speed *as you leave the tunnel* and drift
    
    on this turn.  I would say that 72 mph would be reasonable but you can
    
    take this turn at higher speeds, although I don't recommend taking this
    
    turn too hot.
    
    
    
    Turn 6 & 7
    
    ----------
    
    You will have yet another sharp to deal with so don't go overconfident
    
    with the easy right.  Try to slow down as early as just before the
    
    easy right so you'll have control by the time you hit the sharp left.
    
    You shouldn't be going any faster than roughly 50 mph by the time you
    
    hit Turn 7.  Be careful that you don't go inside the grass.  By the
    
    time you enter the interlude before Turn 8, you should have the car
    
    straightened up.
    
    
    
    Turn 8
    
    ------
    
    Although this turn can be taken at full speed, I strongly recommend
    
    that you take this turn with some *controlled* braking and steering,
    
    just a precaution that you don't hit the wall at the right.  If you
    
    done the drifting and braking right, then you should be able to avoid
    
    the wall at the right.
    
    
    
    Turns 9-11
    
    ----------
    
    This part of the track is as close as a straightaway you'll find in
    
    this track, so use this part of the track wisely.  Make sure that you
    
    are turning *slightly* during the easy turns, making sure that you are
    
    not hitting the walls.  Turn 11 is where you should be doing the worry
    
    abouties because you're going to face a fierce left right after the
    
    easy right, so be sure that you're slowing down as you are about to
    
    finish the easy right but not too early that you're losing control of
    
    the car.
    
    
    
    Turn 12
    
    -------
    
    If you have done a *controlled* slowing down as early as the conclusion
    
    of Turn 11, then you should begin to do even more braking.  You should
    
    be drifting a little as you undertake this turn.  I would say that 80
    
    mph would be a good speed, but you need to be drifting so you can avoid
    
    the grass at the right.  Please don't accelerate until you finish taking
    
    on this turn.  If you slow down too late, then you're bound to hit walls
    
    and mow some grass!
    
    
    
    Turn 13
    
    -------
    
    Take this turn at full speed, trying to avoid the grass.  By the time
    
    you finish this turn, you don't have to worry about the grass at the
    
    left and right side of the track anymore.  JOY!
    
    
    
    Turn 14
    
    -------
    
    Cut your speed to ~120 mph and I would take this turn by out-and-in, and
    
    with heavy skidding.  When you get inside of the straightaway, you need
    
    to have the car straightened.  Gotta be careful when drifting because
    
    poor timing of taking this final turn will result in either unnecessary
    
    dipping or grass contact, which ruins your performance greatly.  I'm
    
    trying to make sure that you're staying competitive here.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11
    
    
    
    If there's a track that will push me to use the Mitsubishi FTO Limited
    
    Edition for the Gran Turismo World Cup, then it would be this course.
    
    It's array of blind turns, tight curves, and bizarre corridors makes
    
    this track reserved for All Wheel Drive cars only.
    
    
    
    Turn 1
    
    ------
    
    This turn can be taken at full speed.  Just don't get so greedy in the
    
    turn that you forget turning in the second turn.
    
    
    
    Turn 2
    
    ------
    
    Slow down from the outside.  Then as the turn begins, slide throughout
    
    most of the turn (although you may have to hit the wall, it takes
    
    practice to avoid the wall in this course since Special Stage Route 11
    
    is laden with sharps).  Don't be starting the turn too early as you
    
    may hit the right wall.  Be sure that you drift here so that you can
    
    maintain your speed.
    
    
    
    Turns 3 and 4
    
    -------------
    
    It may be *necessary* (but shouldn't be that bad) to slow down, but
    
    don't do too much slowing down as you may risk spinning the rear
    
    wheels blatantly.  Do a slide and you'll be risking hitting a wall
    
    at the left or hitting the gas canisters just before Turns 5 and 6.
    
    The key to undertaking this turn would be to take this turn with the
    
    smoothest possible line without slowing down too much and without
    
    any blatant skidding.  Try not to do too much slowing down since
    
    you're inside an AWD Vehicle.
    
    
    
    Turns 5 and 6
    
    -------------
    
    Try to skid both turns, and make sure that you are not going too fast
    
    on these turns, since you are in risk of spinning out the rear tires.
    
    Have the car straightened as you complete a sharp.  Watch out for the
    
    slant just before Turn 6 starts.  Skid through Turn 6, and then get
    
    ready for Turn 7, which is a hairpin.
    
    
    
    Turn 7
    
    ------
    
    Try to slow down just as the turn starts so you can skid through this
    
    killer hairpin.  Slide throughout the turn and don't accelerate until
    
    you're confident that you won't spin out and that you will not hit the
    
    wall at the left.  You can hug the left wall as you take on this turn
    
    for increased speed, but that takes too much timing, and it's rather
    
    dangerous since you're wearing your left tires.
    
    
    
    Turns 8 and 9
    
    -------------
    
    Turn 8 can be taken at full speed.  Turn 9 is a sharp left that you will
    
    have to slow down just before the turn starts so that you can drift
    
    throughout most of the turn.  Be sure that you are not drifting this
    
    turn too hot as this will result in a spinout.  You can hug the right
    
    wall in order to take this turn with increased speed, but that's rather
    
    dangerous since you risk wearing out the right tires trying to cheat.
    
    
    
    Turns 10-13
    
    -----------
    
    Now here's a reason why I want you to use the Mitsubishi FTO here.
    You may want to cut your speed to around 80 mph so you don't end up
    hitting the wall.  Don't get into a bad skid here as you will need
    every inch of control in order to make through this corridor without
    hitting the wall.  Keep a smooth racing line right here.
    
    
    
    Turns 14 and 15
    
    ---------------
    
    These turns can be taken at full speed, but you need to use Turn 15
    
    and the *slight* straightaway in order to prepare for Turns 16 and 17,
    
    which comes in *just about* immediately, so you will need the car
    
    straightened up in preparation for speed reduction for the next chicane.
    
    
    
    Turns 16 and 17
    
    ---------------
    
    If you used the brake while on a lousy position (from Turns 14 and 15),
    
    then you're in for a spinout.  Keep the car running straight, release
    
    the gas pedal, and at around 40-50 mph, I would take on the first half
    
    of the chicane from the out and in but I have to immediately swerve my
    
    car to the left because I'm in for the next chicane.  By the time I
    
    turn at Turn 18, I should *be able* to have the car straightened up and
    
    ready to drift at the next medium or sharp left.
    
    
    
    Turn 18
    
    -------
    
    A good feel of the gas and pedal is required here.  The key to passing
    
    this turn is to keep a smooth racing line with a good feel of the gas
    
    pedal without any blatant slowing down or any unnecessary drifting here.
    
    Apex cutting is acceptable, as long as you are not sloppy taking it.
    
    
    
    Turn 19
    
    -------
    
    There's some easy slants just before this painful hairpin.  You may
    
    wish to do the "Cheating Bastard" maneuver by leaning at the outside of
    
    the track and then with zest timing lean to the right *just right* and
    
    pedal to the metal.  You must time your wheel yanks correctly in order
    
    to cheat on this hairpin.  However, you risk having to wear out your
    
    tires and may face a possible spinout by all means, so an alternative
    
    to the Cheating Bastard maneuver (BTW it's Jaz Rignall of PSM Online
    
    who came up with the idea of the Cheating Bastard), brake as the left
    
    slant concludes *hard*, and yank the car to the right.  Be sure that
    
    you have the car counterbanked and straightened by the time you start
    
    Turns 20 and 21.
    
    
    
    Turns 20 and 21
    
    ---------------
    
    I would treat these two sharps as one turn.  Time your drift so that
    
    you just *hit* the right wall and that you can have room to straighten
    
    up your car by the time Turn 22 (hairpin) begins.  A bad drift or a
    
    sloppy undertake would result in the competition catching up with you.
    
    
    
    Turn 22
    
    -------
    
    Here, the Cheating Bastard maneuver works here, but it's easier to do
    
    the Cheating Bastard maneuver in this hairpin than in Turn 19 because
    
    you don't have to contend with some slants before the hairpin.  This
    
    applies to the first hairpin just before the tunnel.  As the right
    
    hairpin starts, go way outside, and with zest timing, turn right just
    
    right, and pedal to the metal.  Becoming a cheating bastard takes time
    
    because you need the right timing in order to take on the hairpin at
    
    dangerous speeds (Once again, Jaz Rignall of http://www.psmonline.com)
    
    but it's easier to do with the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition since
    
    All Wheel Drive improves your timing a *little* bit.
    
    
    
    Turns 23 and 24
    
    ---------------
    
    You need to slow down to under 45 mph when you see sections of Turn 23
    
    in order to avoid sloppy screwups.  Brake from the left side of the
    
    track and as you see sections of Turn 23, brake *hard* and as Turn 23
    
    begins, keep a smooth racing line.  A good feel of the gas, brakes, and
    
    the steering wheel is required.
    
    
    
    Turn 25
    
    -------
    
    Keep your speed to around 100 mph at this final turn.  Speed out from
    
    the turn if you are going to get closer to the left wall.  A good feel
    
    of the gas and the pedal is required here.
    
    
    
    ========================================================================
    
    SUPERTUNED SPORTS CAR CHAMPIONSHIPS
    
    Number of Tracks: 5
    
    Laps per Track: 5
    
    Required Class License: IA-Class
    
    Restriction of Car Type: No "Castrolized" cars allowed.  You cannot
    
    bring any special cars (i.e. Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition) or anything
    
    that has underwent Castrolization at a Racing Shop.  You can heavily
    
    chachinate your cars with the exception of the Racing crap, and that
    
    sucks because this is indeed a tough track because you're racing every
    
    track in reverse (ACCIDENT TIME!), and you're contending with (oh-boy)
    
    a Toyota Supra RZ, one of the most feared computer cars from the Front
    
    Engine, Rear Drive Championships.  You'll need to follow my pet peeves
    
    if you want to dominate this course.
    
    Tracks involved: High Speed Ring Reverse, Grand Valley Speedway Reverse,
    
    Clubman Stage Route 5 Reverse, Autumn Ring Reverse (Boy, Autumn Ring
    
    Reverse will give you the creeps, it indeed gave me the creeps!), and
    
    Special Stage Route 11 Reverse (even more harder than Special Stage
    
    Route 11, the forward track!)
    
    Pole Position Bonus: 10000 Credits
    
    Finish First in the Track Bonus: 50000 Credits
    
    Series Winner Bonus: 100000 Credits
    
    Car you get for winning the race: You get a late model Nissan Skyline
    
    for winning the race.  Skylines are precious, so make sure that you
    
    try them out before you try to sell them.
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    Vestiroth's note: This is the toughest series in the game.  Since you
    
    can't bring any big daddy racing cars (not to mention that you'll be
    
    facing an overpsyched Toyota Supra RZ), this is something to worry
    
    about.  Ask Jaz Rignall of PSM Online, Fukumoto Atsushi, Ben Cureton,
    
    or anyone who burned this game to a crisp what car to use for this
    
    series.  Everybody will say the following:
    
    
    
    1.  Buy a 1989 Nissan Skyline GT-R and save this car on your Memory
    
        Card.  Earn more money at the Commercial Car Championships (using
    
        a completely stock Viper GTS) or you can take it easy participating
    
        at the Japanese and American Car Championships (with the FTO LM).
    
    
    
    2.  Go to the Nissan Nismo and purchase any maximum-strength performance
    
        enhancers.  If the item says "Purchased", then you'll have to do a
    
        machine test before you can change the parts.  Overpsyche this car
    
        so it can go just about 900 HP, but don't undergo a racing
    
        modification this time around.
    
    
    
    3.  After overpsyching this un-Castrolized car, save this car on your
    
        memory card.
    
    
    
    4.  Be sure that you polish up your skills with this overpsyched Nissan
    
        via a Spot Race before you get inside this series.  Trust me, you'll
    
        have to get used to its controls because all courses are reverse,
    
        and the computer drones are out for blood!
    
    
    
    5.  I'm gonna be assuming that you are going to be using an overpsyched
    
        1989 Nissan Skyline GT-R for this series.
    
    
    
    6.  Fiddle up with your settings so that you can have the strongest
    
        possible brakes, and making sure that your suspension is up to par
    
        with the competition.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    HIGH SPEED RING REVERSE
    
    
    
    I don't know what to say for this one because this is *one* bizarre
    
    course.  You will have to beware of the many *parallel* corners that
    
    this track has to offer.  Basically, you will be going around this ring
    
    in reverse, meaning that some strategies have to be adjusted in order
    
    to block off the competition in this track.  Also, since you are racing
    
    in Reverse for all of the series, you may have to brake as early as you
    
    can to allow some room for error.
    
    
    
    Turn 1
    
    ------
    
    I found this turn to be the deadliest turn of this track.  If you are
    
    going too fast, that means that you have to slow down ahead of time
    
    *blatantly* in order to avoid contact with the wall, but don't slow
    
    down too early as you will be touching the grass.  I found out that
    
    with some skidding, you should be taking this turn A-OK, but you may
    
    want to take on this turn *according* to your experience.
    
    
    
    Turn 2
    
    ------
    
    Try to use this turn as a preparation to take on Turns 3 and 4.  Stay
    
    on the inside while taking on this turn, making sure you *barely* miss
    
    the grass at the left side of the screen.  By the time you start Turn
    
    3, you should be at a good position to reduce room for error.
    
    
    
    Turns 3 and 4
    
    -------------
    
    As with High Speed Ring, you should be going no faster than ~80 mph
    
    (but you will need to adjust your speed based upon your experience).
    
    Brake ahead of time, cut both turns using out-and-in, and make sure
    
    that you are doing rapid gas tapping often here so you don't end up
    
    hitting the grass or wall.  A good feel of the gas pedal is required.
    
    
    
    Turn 5
    
    ------
    
    Cut your speed to about 100 mph just before the turn starts.  Don't
    
    cut your speed too early as you'll screw up BAD.  As soon as the
    
    turn starts, you should begin sliding (or taking it in a smooth line
    
    if you don't want to risk losing speed) and as soon as the turn
    
    concludes, straighten up the car.
    
    
    
    Turn 6
    
    ------
    
    As opposed to turn 1 on the forward track, this turn can be taken at
    
    full speed providing that you have been able to take this turn ahead
    
    of time, and that you don't end up hitting the wall or grass in any
    
    fashion.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    GRAND VALLEY SPEEDWAY REVERSE
    
    
    
    You will be facing lots of weird and unfamiliar turns in Grand Valley
    
    Speedway Reverse and you will be facing an array of bizarre passages
    
    that may cause blatant tire melting, and you do need to be a careful
    
    driver (or in my case, holding an A-Class License for the least) in
    
    order to get away from this track without too much damage.
    
    
    
    Turns 1 and 2
    
    -------------
    
    The key to taking these two turns is to control your speed without any
    
    blatant slowdown or wheelspin.  A reasonable speed here would be 100
    
    mph (my experimentation here is rather limited, so bear with me) with
    
    some skidding, and after Turn 2 ends, you can go full speed for now
    
    but you'll have to be aware that Turns 3 and 4 will be coming up.
    
    
    
    Turns 3 and 4
    
    -------------
    
    No matter what kind of Gran Turismo Player you consider yourself, this
    
    is something to worry about in Grand Valley Speedway.  Cut your speed
    
    to ~50 mph *as* you enter the first turn.  Drift throughout the first
    
    turn using out-and-in.  You should not be going over ~45 mph on average
    
    during the first turn, although I'm saying ~50 mph (you lose speed as
    
    you slide).  On Turn 14, cut your speed to around ~48 mph, take the turn
    
    from the out-and-in, and refrain from accelerating until after you
    
    complete this turn.  You should be at around ~40 mph by the time exit
    
    the chicane.  You need to be concerned with Turn 3 because that's when
    
    you tend to enter a sharp at high speeds.
    
    
    
    Turn 5
    
    ------
    
    You shouldn't have to worry about slowing down too blatantly since you
    
    just recovered from the two hairpins.  Please do some *controlled* rapid
    
    gas tapping as the turn keeps "going and going" and refrain from
    
    accelerating until the turn ends.  Failure to do this will result in
    
    rail contact at the left, which may overspin your rear tires.  You
    
    should be lined up at the middle throughout the turn BTW.
    
    
    
    Turn 6
    
    ------
    
    At Turn 16, brake to about 90 mph, and start skidding as the turn begins
    
    so that you don't hit any uneven passages that may cause blatant spinning
    
    of the rear tires and a possible spinout.  The key to taking this turn
    
    would be to slide throughout this turn without any contact with the wall
    
    or with the least amount of errors.
    
    
    
    Turn 7
    
    ------
    
    Slide throughout nearly all of this lamer, making sure that you are not
    
    going any faster than 70 mph.  You should make sure that you are turning
    
    ahead of time, cutting the apex, leaning the wheels near the slant, and
    
    making sure that you are not accelerating until after the turn.
    
    
    
    Turn 8
    
    ------
    
    Turn 8 is where beginners tend to bite the dust.  Cut your speed to
    
    *below* 50 mph just before the Tunnel terminates.  When the turn
    
    begins, you should try to cut the apex as much as you can, but don't
    
    hit the wall at the right or you may overspin the rear tires.
    
    Sliding's acceptable as long as you don't overdo it.
    
    
    
    Turn 9
    
    ------
    
    The key to taking this turn would be to cut the apex without using
    
    the brakes too much and with a good feel of the gas pedal.  Stay
    
    inside of the track for as much as you can, making sure that your
    
    wheels are touching the slant, *barely* missing the grass.
    
    
    
    Turn 10
    
    -------
    
    I would slide this lamer and start sliding from the outside of the
    
    turn and work my way to the inside, making sure that my wheels are
    
    *next* to the slant, but not touching it.  I should be staying near
    
    the rightmost side of the track for enhanced degree of control because
    
    I will need every drop of control by the time I enter Turn 11, which is
    
    a deadly hairpin.
    
    
    
    Turn 11
    
    -------
    
    Ancient words of wisdom:  Slow down ahead of time for control.  By the
    
    start of the hairpin, your speed shouldn't be exceeding 42 mph.  Take
    
    the hairpin from the outside and slowly move to the inside, but don't
    
    touch the slant as you'll take an unwanted dip right there.  By the
    
    time you take on the rather easy ess-curve, you should have regained
    
    control of the car.  Since you have a long straight, you should try to
    
    brake to 42 mph on this hairpin before all is lost (meaning that you
    
    braked too late).
    
    
    
    Turns 12-14
    
    -----------
    
    Although this Ess can be taken at full speed, be aware that you'll
    
    need to probably be sliding on Turns 13 and 14 in order to avoid any
    
    unwanted dipping and contact with the racing slant at the left or
    
    right side of the track.  If you did not turn ahead of time at Turns
    
    13 and 14, then you're bound to touch some grass, and eventually wind
    
    up spinning out of control.  The key in this ess would be to treat
    
    your car with lots of respect by easing out on every turn and by
    
    turning ahead of time to avoid any sliding, which throws you off
    
    control anyway.
    
    
    
    Turns 15 and 16
    
    ---------------
    
    Cut your speed to around 60 mph as the hairpin begins.  Be sure you give
    
    room to brake because late braking may result in a spinout.  Cut the
    
    apex from the outside.  By the time you take Turn 16 in, then you should
    
    have regained control of the car.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    CLUBMAN STAGE ROUTE 5 REVERSE
    
    
    
    Clubman Stage Route 5 Reverse shouldn't be that tough provided that you
    know how to properly race in Gran Turismo already.  The only concern that
    
    you should be focusing on is Turn 1, which is indeed *weird*.  Here are
    
    some techniques you'll need in order to nail the competition as stated
    
    below, and keep in mind that you need to watch out for Turn 1 because
    
    this turn may cause blatant tire melt if you don't react the earlier
    
    the better.
    
    
    
    Turn 1
    
    ------
    
    The greatest concern in the track.  Go to the left side of the track and
    
    when you see some sections of this turn, move *gently* to the inside of
    
    this turn and provided that you're not going to be hitting the bizarre
    
    wall at the start of the turn (which may overspin the wheels and cause
    
    a spin-off), skid.
    
    
    
    Turn 2
    
    ------
    
    Take this turn out-and-in.  Skid throughout this turn making sure that
    
    you turn as early as you possibly can to avoid hitting the walls.  The
    
    key to taking this turn efficiently is to drift without any early-bird
    
    attempts or any blatant loss in speed.  Keeping a smooth racing line
    
    will result in an increased ratio of speed during this turn.
    
    
    
    Turns 3 and 4
    
    -------------
    
    This Ess can be taken at full speed.  Make sure that you yank the car
    
    just before the turn starts because these turns are rather blind for
    
    beginners.
    
    
    
    Turn 5
    
    ------
    
    Take this turn from the out-and-in, preparing yourself for Turn 6.
    
    Don't slow down too much because this may result in a blatant skid,
    
    something you don't want to do until you reach Turn 6.
    
    
    
    Turn 6
    
    ------
    
    You can scrape the left wall by turning the car to the right just right
    
    and hug the wall while stepping on the gas but that's risky because you
    
    will burn up the tires and possibly spin the rear wheels.  I would just
    
    skid on this turn (although I may have to hit the wall).  You may have
    
    to adjust your speed depending on your skill.  I would say that 60 mph
    
    is safe to start.
    
    
    
    Turn 7
    
    ------
    
    Turn gently on this turn, making sure that you are going from the out
    
    and in so you will prepare yourself for the final two turns.  By the
    
    time you start Turn 8, you should be lined up at the left side of the
    
    track.
    
    
    
    Turn 8
    
    ------
    
    The key to undertaking this turn is to cut the apex as much as possible
    
    without any blatant sliding or slowing down.  Under 100 mph and over 90
    
    mph would be reasonable.  A good feel of the gas and wheel is required
    
    in order to avoid any wall contact.
    
    
    
    Turn 9
    
    ------
    
    This final turn can be taken at full speed.  If you skid, then just
    
    make sure that you have the car straightened up before you cross the
    
    finish line, as you will need every drop of speed to blast the enemies
    
    into smithereens in this track.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    AUTUMN RING REVERSE
    
    
    
    I hate this track simply because this track tests your ability to be a
    
    diagnostic driver rather than on speed.  You do have to learn how to
    
    avoid touching the grass as much as you can because there are sharp
    
    chicanes that will throw you off course IN AN INSTANT.  It's important
    
    that you don't go full throttle while taking on any turn, not just the
    
    hairpins.
    
    
    
    Turns 1 and 2
    
    -------------
    
    Don't go full speed and full throttle ahead on this ess or you may be
    
    hitting the grass or the wall.  If you are at a blatantly high speed,
    
    you need to brake to 130 mph at the Finish Line (with the foot off the
    
    pedal) and take the turn from the outside and into the inside.  This
    
    turn has the ability to dizzy you from the next turn, so be sure that
    
    your car is straight so you can brake to slow down on the next turn.
    
    
    
    Turns 3
    
    -------
    
    The best way to take on this turn is to brake just before the turn at
    
    a straight line (getting the foot off the gas), and then begin sliding
    
    from the out-and-in but it's really hard to cut the apex here because
    
    your bound to start the turn inside, which really hurts.
    
    
    
    Turn 4 through 6
    
    ----------------
    
    You should be lined up at the outside of the track just before this
    
    turn starts.  Brake at a straight line, and cut the apex at Turn 4.
    
    Don't let your guard down right after this turn because you have to
    
    deal with the chicane coming up.  Try to keep a straight line as much
    
    as you can during the chicane to optimize your speed, but it's kind
    
    of hard to do because the chicane happens so suddenly.
    
    
    
    Turn 7
    
    ------
    
    You shouldn't be taking this turn at speeds faster than 65 mph.  Again,
    
    brake at a straight line, and then slide this lame 235er.  You may have
    
    to speed out if you are bound to hit the grass at the left.  You should
    
    have the car straightened up just before the Mazda Speed Tunnel.
    
    
    
    Turn 8
    
    ------
    
    Slow down to a reasonable speed so that you can slide this turn out and
    
    in style without any blatant loss of speed.  Brake at a straight line
    
    and at the middle of the turn, try to bank the car rightwards so you can
    
    slide through.  You need a good feel of the gas in order to make it out
    
    of this turn without any grass contact.
    
    
    
    Turn 9
    
    ------
    
    This hairpin can be taken at speeds of up to 70 mph.  Brake at a straight
    
    line from the outside, and cut the apex, making sure that you don't abuse
    
    the gas during the turn.  Line up the car at the right side of the track
    
    before Turn 10.
    
    
    
    Turn 10
    
    -------
    
    Approach this turn from the right side of the track and just before the
    
    grade rise end, remove your foot from the gas and almost immediately
    
    brake simultaneously.  The safe speed here is 45 mph with some Apex
    
    Cutting, but I found this turn to be deadly because it's as sharp as
    
    a lady's fingernail.
    
    
    
    Turn 11
    
    -------
    
    This is much like the early stretch of the Autumnring Reverse but it's
    
    a lot much crappier because you now have twin chicanes coming up right
    
    after this sharp.  Again, point your car at the right side and brake
    
    the car at a straight line.  Cut the apex and try to straighten up the
    
    car before the chicanes come up.
    
    
    
    Turns 12 through 15
    
    -------------------
    
    The ideal speed for these twin chicanes is around 70 mph.  Any contact
    
    with the grass or the slants may make your car unstable so keep that
    
    in mind.  Try to keep a smooth and straight racing line for as much as
    
    you can to maintain your present control.  Cut the apex of the chicanes
    
    if you can but a medium right follows the second chicane so instantly
    
    so you may feel dizzy after this one.
    
    
    
    Turn 16
    
    -------
    
    You may feel dizzy right after the chicanes.  Try to stay low in this
    
    turn as much as you can even though you risk having to cut your speed
    
    too blatantly, but if you are good enough, you should be able to cut
    
    the apex of this turn without touching the grass at the left.  Try to
    
    stay at the right side of the track as the turn concludes because a
    
    tight hairpin follows up afterwards.
    
    
    
    Turn 17
    
    -------
    
    Approach this hairpin by getting the foot off the gas and almost
    
    immediately brake simultaneously to under 50 mph.  Use the out-and-in
    
    routine to take care of this hairpin and speed out by all means if it
    
    is necessary for you (only if you suspect that you will be hitting the
    
    grass at the right).  Now you should have the car running straight so
    
    that you can milk up some speed.  Be prepared to slow down as you cross
    
    the Next Lap/Finish Line so that you can take on the first Ess without
    
    drama.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11 REVERSE
    
    
    
    This is the hardest track in the game.  Enough babbling and crying
    
    already. :P
    
    
    
    Turn 1
    
    ------
    
    Approach this corner at a straight line and brake while having the foot
    
    off the gas.  Try to take this turn pointing yourself at the middle or
    
    at the inside of the turn so that you can allow yourself room for error
    
    when the chicane is coming up.  This turn is sure to make you dizzy for
    
    good because your taking on this turn at an insane speed.
    
    
    
    Turns 2 and 3
    
    -------------
    
    You shouldn't be taking this turn full speed and your chances of passing
    
    this chicane will increase if you cut your speed during the final stretch
    
    of Turn 1.  The left side of the track is the ideal area to start the
    
    turn.  Try to cut the apex as much as you can here.  It's hard to time
    
    this chicane since the turn happens just a little after the first curve
    
    ends.
    
    
    
    Turn 4
    
    ------
    
    Approach this turn and brake at a straight line.  Cut the apex of the
    
    turn and return to the outside of the track, making sure that you are
    
    ready to use out-and-in once again for the next two turns after this
    
    hairpin.  You should be going no faster than 45 mph here.
    
    
    
    Turns 5 and 6
    
    -------------
    
    Try to slide on both of these turns, but try to stay outside of the
    
    first half.  Afterwards, provided that you have stayed outside of Turn
    
    5, you can cut the apex of Turn 6.  Try to treat these two as one turn
    
    to optimize performance.  Going too fast will result in barrier contact
    
    which may wear out the tires.
    
    
    
    Turn 7
    
    ------
    
    A left bend will dizzy you real good just before the hairpin.  You need
    
    to be going no faster than 45 mph here and doing out-and-in if you want
    
    to avoid hitting the walls at the right.  You should position yourself
    
    at the left side of the track right after the hairpin.
    
    
    
    Turn 8
    
    ------
    
    Move to the Left side of the track, slow down, cut the right side of the
    
    track, and move back to the left side of the track just before the next
    
    chicane starts.  You shouldn't be accelerating even though you are urged
    
    to do so.
    
    
    
    Turns 9 and 10
    
    --------------
    
    You may feel a little dizzy after Turn 8 so be prepared to slow down
    
    just before the Chicane Starts.  You should try to keep a smooth racing
    
    line and possibly cut both turns in order to avoid any unnecessary
    
    slowing down.  This chicane is IMHO harder than the first since the sharp
    
    turns are farther apart.
    
    
    
    Turns 11 and 12
    
    ---------------
    
    These easy bends should be no problem, but don't be going full speed
    
    ahead as you will have to face the harsh corridor sooner or later and
    
    if you want to pass this area without any frontal contact with any of
    
    the barricades, then it's important that you brake in a straight line
    
    to cut your speed in preparation for the rough chicanes.
    
    
    
    Turns 13 through 16
    
    -------------------
    
    Unless you were able to cut your speed from the previous point at the
    
    above paragraph, you'll be finding yourself hitting the barriers all of
    
    a sudden.  While going through these chicanes, it's crucial that you
    
    don't get into a blatant slide that may cause you to go off-balance
    
    during this crappy area.  Keep the car running straight and don't go
    
    any faster than 80 mph for the best results.
    
    
    
    Turn 17
    
    -------
    
    This turn can be taken from the left, to the right during the turn, and
    
    back into the left (although you should try to position yourself to the
    
    right, but that's Turn 18) by braking at a straight line, and sliding
    
    throughout this turn.  Have the car straightened up so that you can
    
    allow some drama at Turn 18.
    
    
    
    Turn 18
    
    -------
    
    Move from the left side of the track and into the right side of the
    
    track.  After the turn, you should position yourself to the right side
    
    of the track to prepare yourself to take on the hairpin which is coming
    
    up.
    
    
    
    Turn 19
    
    -------
    
    You need to be braking at a straight line and possibly use out and in
    
    at no faster than 55 mph in order to avoid any collision with any walls,
    
    even though you're bound to hit the barriers your first couple of times.
    
    You can slide through this hairpin but it's too dangerous because that's
    
    when you risk spinning-out.
    
    
    
    Turn 20
    
    -------
    
    At the straightaway, position yourself to the left side of the track.
    
    Brake ahead of time so that you can allow some room for error.  Clip the
    
    apex of the turn.  Try to go as slow as you can because Turn 21 follows
    
    up right after this turn.  If you want to take on Turn 21 without drama,
    
    then you should try to stay either centered after the turn or stay at the
    
    right side of the track to avoid any problems.
    
    
    
    Turn 21
    
    -------
    
    Clip the apex of this turn by slowing down and sliding this lamer.  Be
    
    careful not to hit the barrier at the left when you are cutting the apex.
    
    You can still make it throughout this turn even from the left side of the
    
    track, but it's pretty ludicrous since you hit the wall at the right.
    
    The key to undertaking this turn is to move to the right as much as you
    
    can and clip the apex before all is lost.
    
    
    
    Turns 22 and 23
    
    ---------------
    
    This is a blind chicane.  Try to slow down just right so that you can
    
    clip the apex of this chicane without any contact with the barriers.  I
    
    find this too difficult because I can't see what's gonna happen next due
    
    to the slight upgrade and the height of the barriers.  The second part
    
    of the chicane is a lot sharper, so stay on your toes.
    
    
    
    Turn 24
    
    -------
    
    Move to the right side of the track before this turn.  Brake with the
    
    wheels parrallel and slide this final lamer by clipping the apex.  You
    
    should be at the right side of the track when the turn ends.
    
    
    
    Turn 25
    
    -------
    
    You should now be able to complete the track without any further problems.
    
    Stay as low as you can in this turn for some much needed speed.
    
    
    
    ========================================================================
    
    GRAND VALLEY SPEEDWAY ENDURANCE CHAMPIONSHIP
    
    Number of Tracks: 1
    
    Laps per Track: 60
    
    Required Class License: IA-Class
    
    Restriction of Car Type: No restriction on Car type
    
    Tracks involved: Grand Valley Speedway Only, this is an endurance race
    
    Pole Position Bonus: 20000 Credits
    
    Finish First in the Track Bonus: 300000 Credits
    
    Car you get for winning the race: YEEESSSSS!!!!!!!!  A Toyota Castrol
    
    Supra GT for winning the race!!!!!!  If you have not yet purchased the
    
    Toyota Castrol Supra GT yet, then if you win the race preferrably using
    
    the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition, then this could be your lucky day.
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    
    A close to 2-hour, 60-lap, 300-mile race on the most beautiful track on
    Gran Turismo, enough to wear out your PlayStation to Smithereens!  In order
    
    to avoid running the PlayStation for more than 2 hours (and to avoid any
    
    spamming or mail-bombing into my mailbox), here's what you have to do:
    
    
    
    1.  You *should* have a Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo overpsyched and
    
        *CASTROLIZED* in preparation to enter the Japanese and American Car
    
        Championship.  You should have tested your ability to pilot a GTO
    
        Twin Turbo long ago during the High Speed Championships.
    
    
    
    2.  Blast the competition to a crisp by throwing the Mitsubishi GTO
    
        Twin Turbo at the Japanese and American Car Championships to win the
    
        Mitsubishi FTO Limited Editon.  Save the FTO LM on the memory card
    
        and get in the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition and win the Japanese
    
        and American Car Championships once again to get the Dodge Viper
    
        GTS-R.  Save the Viper on your Memory Card and board onto the
    
        Japanese and British Car Championships.
    
    
    
    3.  Using the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition, burn the competition away
    
        winning the Japanese and British Car Championships two consecutive
    
        times, keeping the TVR Cerbera Limited Edition and dumping the lame
    
        Honda Civic Del Sol Limited Edition.  Save the TVR Cerbera Limited
    
        Edition on the Memory Card, get inside the TVR, and get ready to
    
        blow the competition to a crisp again on the American and British
    
        Car championships.
    
    
    
    4.  On the British-American Sports Car championships, neither the Mazda
        RX-7 A-Spec LM nor the Concept Car are worth having--While Adrian
        Pepper concluded that the Concept Car is the best car in the game,
        IMO NEITHER these cars are worth having due to stability issues
        and/or speed problems I have by default.
    
    
    
    5.  Once you are finished resting the PSX for at least 2-3 hours,
        you can play Gran Turismo once again.  Using the Mitsubishi FTO
        LM, you should have no problem with this racetrack.
    
    
    6.  I'm gonna use the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition for this course.
    
        I know it's repetitive, but since this is an endurance race, it's
    
        necessary for me to adjust some tactics a little so that you don't
    
        overskid which wears out tires.
    
    
    
    7.  I recommend that you pit every 12-15 laps for fresh new rubber.
    
        As of this writing, the information here may or may not be too
    
        accurate, so you may have to help me out on this.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    GRAND VALLEY SPEEDWAY
    
    
    
    You should be familiar with this track back in the Gran Turismo World
    
    Cup to get a feel on how to pilot a Mitsubishi FTO here.
    
    
    
    Turn 1
    
    ------
    
    Being dizzy right after starting will make you uncomfortable on the
    
    second turn, which is a hairpin.  You'll want to cut your speed as soon
    
    as you finish up taking on the gentle left so that you'll have your
    
    speed *reasonably* reduced by the time you take on the first hairpin
    
    turn in the track.
    
    
    
    Turn 2
    
    ------
    
    If you were able to cut your speed (I recommend releasing the gas pedal
    
    and by the time you hit the *slight* straight brake to ~60 mph and do
    
    some sliding) as you were taking on the first turn in preparation of
    
    this hairpin, then great.  If not, then be prepared to either touch
    
    the dirt or deal with a spinout!  It's important that you cut your
    
    speed (if you're going over 120 mph at the start of Turn 1) as early
    
    as Turn 1, and start reacting by the time you reach Turn 2 so you can
    
    allow some room for error by the time you reach the next straight, a
    
    gateway to a rather gruesome S-curve coming up.
    
    
    
    Turns 3-5
    
    ---------
    
    Although this Ess can be taken at full speed, be aware that you'll
    
    need to probably be sliding on Turn 5 in order to avoid any unwanted
    
    dipping and contact with the racing slant at the left or right side
    
    of the track.  If you did not turn ahead of time at Turn 5, then
    
    you're bound to touch some grass, and eventually wind up spinning out
    
    of control.  You'll need to be in good shape when you take on Turn 6,
    
    a very naughty hairpin.
    
    
    
    Turn 6
    
    ------
    
    Ancient words of wisdom:  Slow down ahead of time for control.  By the
    
    start of the hairpin, your speed shouldn't be exceeding 42 mph.  Take
    
    the hairpin from the outside and slowly move to the inside, but don't
    
    touch the slant as you'll take an unwanted dip right there.  Don't let
    
    the next straight fool you as you'll have to take on a rather *sharp*
    
    left.
    
    
    
    Turn 7
    
    ------
    
    I would slide this lamer and start sliding from the outside of the
    
    turn and work my way to the inside, making sure that my wheels are
    
    *next* to the slant, but not touching it.  I should be staying near
    
    the leftmost side of the track when I finish this turn because Turn
    
    8 is coming up.
    
    
    
    Turn 8
    
    ------
    
    As with Turn 7, I would slide and take this turn from the outside and
    
    work my way to the inside, making sure that my wheels are near the
    
    slant (but not touching it), and continue to stay near the rightmost
    
    side of the track because Turn 9 is coming up, and believe me, Turn 9
    
    is a sharp left (a carryover from the Sunday Cup and all other B-Class
    
    Races).  Turn 8 is indeed a lot deadlier than Turn 7 so you may have
    
    to go slower on this turn as opposed to Turn 7.
    
    
    
    Turn 9
    
    ------
    
    Deadly Sharp Left.  Before you enter this turn, make sure that you're
    
    not going any faster than ~50 mph.  Start the turn from the outside,
    
    work your way inside.  If you performed this turn correctly, then you
    
    should *barely* miss the wall.  If you took this turn lousy, then be
    
    prepared to hit the wall or spin out.  Try not to slide here because
    
    that's where beginners tend to overspeed and overslide, causing major
    
    spinouts and problems that may show your vulnerability towards your
    
    opponents.
    
    
    
    Turn 10
    
    -------
    
    As deadly as this painfully sharp left may seem, it seems to be a *bad*
    
    hairpin in disguise (but shouldn't be that bad).  Try to slow down as
    
    early as you can so you don't have to overslide and spin out on this
    
    turn.  I would say that ~60 mph would be safe (safe enough to avoid the
    
    grass at the right), though my experimentation's been limited.  If you
    
    are going too fast or skidding too sloppy, then a nice Tunnel Wall is
    
    waiting for you at the start of Turn 11.
    
    
    
    Turn 11
    
    -------
    
    If you have taken Turn 10 neatly, great.  At Turn 11, don't go any
    
    slower than 90 mph.  I would slide throughout the turn and possibly
    
    use a *little* rapid gas tapping so that I don't accelerate until
    
    after the turn finishes and the straightaway begins.  Use the straight
    
    before Turn 12 efficiently because at Turn 12, you'll have to cut your
    
    speed *just a little* before the straight terminates.
    
    
    
    Turn 12
    
    -------
    
    Is your speed cut to ~110 by the time the turn started?  Well, do some
    
    *controlled* rapid gas tapping as the turn keeps "going and going" and
    
    refrain from accelerating until the turn ends.  Failure to do this will
    
    result in rail contact at the left, which may damage your tires.
    
    
    
    Turns 13 and 14
    
    ---------------
    
    No matter what kind of Gran Turismo Player you consider yourself, this
    
    is something to worry about in Grand Valley Speedway.  Cut your speed
    
    to ~74 mph *as* you enter the first turn.  Drift throughout the first
    
    turn using out-and-in.  You should not be going over ~60 mph on average
    
    during the first turn, although I'm saying ~74 mph (you lose speed as
    
    you slide).  On Turn 14, cut your speed to around ~50 mph, take the turn
    
    from the out-and-in, and refrain from accelerating until after you
    
    complete this turn.  You should be at around ~40 mph by the time your
    
    at the final stretch (You tend to lose lots of speed here, so don't go
    
    too fast as these turns are hairpins in nature).
    
    
    
    Turn 15
    
    -------
    
    The key here is to take this turn without any unneccessary slowing down
    
    or having to touch the grass on either side.  I would say that ~130 mph
    
    with some sliding (assuming that you started turning as the turn starts)
    
    would be safe enough to avoid the slant and grass at the left.  On the
    
    second and third lap, you'll need to be careful when taking on Turns 1
    
    and 2 because you may be at about 175 mph (on Class A Cars) by the time
    
    you enter this area once again.
    
    
    
    ========================================================================
    
    SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11 ENDURANCE CHAMPIONSHIP WITH RACING CARS
    
    Number of Tracks: 1
    
    Laps per Track: 30
    
    Required Class License: IA-Class
    
    Restriction of Car Type: Racing Cars permitted, no restriction on any
    
    car you want to be in.
    
    Tracks involved: Special Stage Route 11 only
    
    Pole Position Bonus: 20000 Credits
    
    Finish First in the Track Bonus: 150000 Credits
    
    Car you get for winning the race: You get a Nissan Silvia Limited
    
    Edition (Castrolized) for winning this race.  Try to experiment this
    
    car before going on.
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    Vestiroth's note:  You should have familiarized yourself with this track
    
    a long time ago, just before you got your IA License.  In order to make
    
    sure that you don't make too many pit stops, here are the procedures:
    
    
    
    1.  Get the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition by winning the Japanese and
    
        American Sports Car Championship.  Save this car on your Memory
    
        Card.
    
    
    
    2.  Try to win all A-Class Championships (earning nothing but Gold)
    
        before getting your International A License.  Save all your progress
    
        on the Memory Card before going onto winning the International A
    
        License.
    
    
    
    3.  Pass the International A License Tests (they're really hard, save
        the IA License on the Memory Card, and practice up with the FTO
        Limited Edition until you're comfy enough to take on this track.
    
    
    
    4.  Pit the FTO against all other cars on this track.  Be sure that you
    
        take a Pit stop for every 10 laps.  I'm assuming that you are riding
    
        an FTO for this track.
    
    
    
    5.  Fiddle up with the settings so that you are up-to-par with the
    
        competition.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11
    
    
    
    Since you're in for a 30-lap race in the hardest track in Gran Turismo,
    
    you may have to drive conservatively here in order to prevent blatant
    
    tire wear.  Remember, the lighter the car, the longer the tire life.
    
    Since this information was taken from my previous Gran Turismo FAQs,
    
    the information here will be inaccurate.  Please correct me (via e-mail)
    
    if you can.
    
    
    
    Turn 1
    
    ------
    
    This turn can be taken at full speed.  Just don't get so greedy in the
    
    turn that you forget turning in the second turn.
    
    
    
    Turn 2
    
    ------
    
    Slow down from the outside.  Then as the turn begins, slide throughout
    
    most of the turn (although you may have to hit the wall, it takes
    
    practice to avoid the wall in this course since Special Stage Route 11
    
    is laden with sharps).  Don't be starting the turn too early as you
    
    may hit the right wall.  Be sure that you drift here so that you can
    
    maintain your speed.
    
    
    
    Turns 3 and 4
    
    -------------
    
    It may be *necessary* (but shouldn't be that bad) to slow down, but
    
    don't do too much slowing down as you may risk spinning the rear
    
    wheels blatantly.  Do a slide and you'll be risking hitting a wall
    
    at the left or hitting the gas canisters just before Turns 5 and 6.
    
    The key to undertaking this turn would be to take this turn with the
    
    smoothest possible line without slowing down too much and without
    
    any blatant skidding.  Try not to do too much slowing down since
    
    you're inside an AWD Vehicle.
    
    
    
    Turns 5 and 6
    
    -------------
    
    Try to skid both turns, and make sure that you are not going too fast
    
    on these turns, since you are in risk of spinning out the rear tires.
    
    Have the car straightened as you complete a sharp.  Watch out for the
    
    slant just before Turn 6 starts.  Skid through Turn 6, and then get
    
    ready for Turn 7, which is a hairpin.
    
    
    
    Turn 7
    
    ------
    
    Try to slow down just as the turn starts so you can skid through this
    
    killer hairpin.  Slide throughout the turn and don't accelerate until
    
    you're confident that you won't spin out and that you will not hit the
    
    wall at the left.  You can hug the left wall as you take on this turn
    
    for increased speed, but that takes too much timing, and it's rather
    
    dangerous since you're wearing your left tires.
    
    
    
    Turns 8 and 9
    
    -------------
    
    Turn 8 can be taken at full speed.  Turn 9 is a sharp left that you will
    
    have to slow down just before the turn starts so that you can drift
    
    throughout most of the turn.  Be sure that you are not drifting this
    
    turn too hot as this will result in a spinout.  You can hug the right
    
    wall in order to take this turn with increased speed, but that's rather
    
    dangerous since you risk wearing out the right tires trying to cheat.
    
    
    
    Turns 10-13
    
    -----------
    
    Very harsh corridor.  You may want to cut your speed to around 80
    
    mph so you don't end up hitting the wall.  Don't get into a bad skid
    
    here as you will need every inch of control in order to make through
    
    this corridor without hitting the wall.  Keep a smooth racing line
    
    right here.
    
    
    
    Turns 14 and 15
    
    ---------------
    
    These turns can be taken at full speed, but you need to use Turn 15
    
    and the *slight* straightaway in order to prepare for Turns 16 and 17,
    
    which comes in *just about* immediately, so you will need the car
    
    straightened up in preparation for speed reduction for the next chicane.
    
    
    
    Turns 16 and 17
    
    ---------------
    
    If you used the brake while on a lousy position (from Turns 14 and 15),
    
    then you're in for a spinout.  Keep the car running straight, release
    
    the gas pedal, and at around 40-50 mph, I would take on the first half
    
    of the chicane from the out and in but I have to immediately swerve my
    
    car to the left because I'm in for the next chicane.  By the time I
    
    turn at Turn 18, I should *be able* to have the car straightened up and
    
    ready to drift at the next medium or sharp left.
    
    
    
    Turn 18
    
    -------
    
    A good feel of the gas and pedal is required here.  The key to passing
    
    this turn is to keep a smooth racing line with a good feel of the gas
    
    pedal without any blatant slowing down or any unnecessary drifting here.
    
    Apex cutting is acceptable, as long as you are not sloppy taking it.
    
    
    
    Turn 19
    
    -------
    
    There's some easy slants just before this painful hairpin.  You may
    
    wish to do the "Cheating Bastard" maneuver by leaning at the outside of
    
    the track and then with zest timing lean to the right *just right* and
    
    pedal to the metal.  You must time your wheel yanks correctly in order
    
    to cheat on this hairpin.  However, you risk having to wear out your
    
    tires and may face a possible spinout by all means, so an alternative
    
    to the Cheating Bastard maneuver (BTW it's Jaz Rignall of PSM Online
    
    who came up with the idea of the Cheating Bastard), brake as the left
    
    slant concludes *hard*, and yank the car to the right.  Be sure that
    
    you have the car counterbanked and straightened by the time you start
    
    Turns 20 and 21.
    
    
    
    Turns 20 and 21
    
    ---------------
    
    I would treat these two sharps as one turn.  Time your drift so that
    
    you just *hit* the right wall and that you can have room to straighten
    
    up your car by the time Turn 22 (hairpin) begins.  A bad drift or a
    
    sloppy undertake would result in the competition catching up with you.
    
    
    
    Turn 22
    
    -------
    
    Here, the Cheating Bastard maneuver works here, but it's easier to do
    
    the Cheating Bastard maneuver in this hairpin than in Turn 19 because
    
    you don't have to contend with some slants before the hairpin.  This
    
    applies to the first hairpin just before the tunnel.  As the right
    
    hairpin starts, go way outside, and with zest timing, turn right just
    
    right, and pedal to the metal.  Becoming a cheating bastard takes time
    
    because you need the right timing in order to take on the hairpin at
    
    dangerous speeds (Once again, Jaz Rignall of http://www.psmonline.com)
    
    but it's easier to do with the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition since
    
    All Wheel Drive improves your timing a *little* bit.
    
    
    
    Turns 23 and 24
    
    ---------------
    
    You need to slow down to under 45 mph when you see sections of Turn 23
    
    in order to avoid sloppy screwups.  Brake from the left side of the
    
    track and as you see sections of Turn 23, brake *hard* and as Turn 23
    
    begins, keep a smooth racing line.  A good feel of the gas, brakes, and
    
    the steering wheel is required.
    
    
    
    Turn 25
    
    -------
    
    Keep your speed to around 100 mph at this final turn.  Speed out from
    
    the turn if you are going to get closer to the left wall.  A good feel
    
    of the gas and the pedal is required here.
    
    
    
    ========================================================================
    
    SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11 ENDURANCE CHAMPIONSHIP WITHOUT RACING CARS
    
    Number of Tracks: 1
    
    Laps per Track: 30
    
    Required Class License: IA-Class
    
    Restriction of Car Type: No Racing Cars allowed.  You cannot be inside
    
    a special (cheap) model or have the car "Castrolized" if you want to
    
    enter this race, so have an overtweaked Nissan Skyline GT-R (without
    
    the Castrol Crap) ready.
    
    Tracks involved: Special Stage Route 11 Reverse
    
    Pole Position Bonus: 20000 Credits
    
    Finish First in the Track Bonus: 150000 Credits
    
    Car you get for winning the race: An upgradeable Nissan Nismo GT-R
    
    Limited Edition for winning the race.
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    Vestiroth's note: This is my least favorite endurance race in all of
    Gran Turismo.  Period.  Here's what to do:
    
    
    
    1.  Buy a Nissan Skyline, get everything you need to enter the Overly
    
        Tuned car championships, and win the series.  Save the victory on
    
        your Memory Card.
    
    
    
    2.  Keep on practicing with your Skyline on this championship until
    
        you are comfy enough to take on this track, since you will be
    
        racing on reverse.
    
    
    
    3.  I'm gonna be using a Nissan Skyline GT-R V-Spec for this course.
    
        Change the tactics if you are using different cars.
    
    
    
    4.  Since you are not allowed to bring in racing cars for this track,
    
        make sure that you are not undergoing any cheap racing mod in
    
        prep for this series.
    
    
    
    5.  You will need to fiddle up your settings a little for stability
    
        and handling purposes.  You should try to pit in every 6-10 laps
    
        since Skylines have high curb weight.
    
    
    
    6.  Use Hard Racing Tires in order to keep up with the competition.
    
        Soft Racing Tires are good for higher traction, but they tend to
    
        wear out in only a matter of seconds.
    
    
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11 REVERSE
    
    
    
    This is not a course for a Nissan Skyline of any kind to get inside
    
    because this track is laden with lots of sharp turns, weird hairpins,
    
    and an array of unparrallel corners with harsh passages.  Urban racing
    
    has always been the most famous form of racing, but has always been the
    
    most technical aloft because almost all of the time you face a lot of
    
    barriers in this track.
    
    
    
    Turn 1
    
    ------
    
    Approach this corner at a straight line and brake while having the foot
    
    off the gas.  Try to take this turn pointing yourself at the middle or
    
    at the inside of the turn so that you can allow yourself room for error
    
    when the chicane is coming up.  This turn is sure to make you dizzy for
    
    good because your taking on this turn at an insane speed.  Sadly and
    
    sarcastically, since this is an Endurance Race, you'll have to go much
    
    slower than you did on the Tuned Car Championships.
    
    
    Turns 2 and 3
    
    -------------
    
    You shouldn't be taking this turn full speed and your chances of passing
    
    this chicane will increase if you cut your speed during the final stretch
    
    of Turn 1.  The left side of the track is the ideal area to start the
    
    turn.  Try to cut the apex as much as you can here.  It's hard to time
    
    this chicane since the turn happens just a little after the first curve
    
    ends.
    
    
    
    Turn 4
    
    ------
    
    Approach this turn and brake at a straight line.  Cut the apex of the
    
    turn and return to the outside of the track, making sure that you are
    
    ready to use out-and-in once again for the next two turns after this
    
    hairpin.  You should be going no faster than 45 mph here.  Since there
    
    are times when time and speed are a concern, you may want to rub the
    
    wall at the right side of the track by banking the car just right and
    
    continue to rub the car until the turn ends.  This wears down your tires
    
    faster so don't do this unless you need to catch up.
    
    
    
    Turns 5 and 6
    
    -------------
    
    Try to slide on both of these turns, but try to stay outside of the
    
    first half.  Afterwards, provided that you have stayed outside of Turn
    
    5, you can cut the apex of Turn 6.  Try to treat these two as one turn
    
    to optimize performance.  Going too fast will result in barrier contact
    
    which may wear out the tires.  However, you'll have to go slightly
    
    slower on these turns due to the tires that you've installed on your
    
    Skyline.
    
    
    
    Turn 7
    
    ------
    
    A left bend will dizzy you real good just before the hairpin.  You need
    
    to be going no faster than 45 mph here and doing out-and-in if you want
    
    to avoid hitting the walls at the right.  It's really difficult to time
    
    it right on this turn because the tires that I've installed is what
    
    really hurts the Skyline's handling.
    
    
    
    Turn 8
    
    ------
    
    Move to the Left side of the track, slow down, cut the right side of the
    
    track, and move back to the left side of the track just before the next
    
    chicane starts.  You shouldn't be accelerating even though you are urged
    
    to do so.
    
    
    
    Turns 9 and 10
    
    --------------
    
    You may feel a little dizzy after Turn 8 so be prepared to slow down
    
    just before the Chicane Starts.  You should try to keep a smooth racing
    
    line and possibly cut both turns in order to avoid any unnecessary
    
    slowing down.  This chicane is IMHO harder than the first since the sharp
    
    turns are farther apart.  Also, you may be bound to hit some walls
    
    depending on the tires that you are wearing.
    
    
    
    Turns 11 and 12
    
    ---------------
    
    These easy bends should be no problem, but don't be going full speed
    
    ahead as you will have to face the harsh corridor sooner or later and
    
    if you want to pass this area without any frontal contact with any of
    
    the barricades, then it's important that you brake in a straight line
    
    to cut your speed in preparation for the rough chicanes.
    
    
    
    Turns 13 through 16
    
    -------------------
    
    Unless you were able to cut your speed from the previous point at the
    
    above paragraph, you'll be finding yourself hitting the barriers all of
    
    a sudden.  While going through these chicanes, it's crucial that you
    
    don't get into a blatant slide that may cause you to go off-balance
    
    during this crappy area.  Keep the car running straight and don't go
    
    any faster than 80 mph for the best results.  Overspinning the tires
    
    will result in blatant tire burn and possibly some engine overheat.
    
    
    
    Turn 17
    
    -------
    
    This turn can be taken from the left, to the right during the turn, and
    
    back into the left (although you should try to position yourself to the
    
    right, but that's Turn 18) by braking at a straight line, and sliding
    
    throughout this turn.  Have the car straightened up so that you can
    
    allow some drama at Turn 18.
    
    
    
    Turn 18
    
    -------
    
    Move from the left side of the track and into the right side of the
    
    track.  After the turn, you should position yourself to the right side
    
    of the track to prepare yourself to take on the hairpin which is coming
    
    up.
    
    
    
    Turn 19
    
    -------
    
    You need to be braking at a straight line and possibly use out and in
    
    at no faster than 55 mph in order to avoid any collision with any walls,
    
    even though you're bound to hit the barriers your first couple of times.
    
    You can slide through this hairpin but it's too dangerous because that's
    
    when you risk spinning-out.  You can take on this hairpin like you did
    
    with the first, but do that ONLY if you need to catch up with the
    
    competition.
    
    
    
    Turn 20
    
    -------
    
    At the straightaway, position yourself to the left side of the track.
    
    Brake ahead of time so that you can allow some room for error.  Clip the
    
    apex of the turn.  Try to go as slow as you can because Turn 21 follows
    
    up right after this turn.  If you want to take on Turn 21 without drama,
    
    then you should try to stay either centered after the turn or stay at the
    
    right side of the track to avoid any problems.  Since the tires are not
    
    as responsive as SS Racing Tires, you may need to brake a little earlier
    
    so that you can allow some room for error.
    
    
    
    Turn 21
    
    -------
    
    Clip the apex of this turn by slowing down and sliding this lamer.  Be
    
    careful not to hit the barrier at the left when you are cutting the apex.
    
    You can still make it throughout this turn even from the left side of the
    
    track, but it's pretty ludicrous since you hit the wall at the right.
    
    The key to undertaking this turn is to move to the right as much as you
    
    can and clip the apex before all is lost.
    
    
    
    Turns 22 and 23
    
    ---------------
    
    This is a blind chicane.  Try to slow down just right so that you can
    
    clip the apex of this chicane without any contact with the barriers.  I
    
    find this too difficult because I can't see what's gonna happen next due
    
    to the slight upgrade and the height of the barriers.  The second part
    
    of the chicane is a lot sharper, so stay on your toes.  Your chances of
    
    crossing this chicane without any barrier contact will be greater if
    
    you slow down earlier than what you would do with SS Racing Tires.
    
    
    
    Turn 24
    
    -------
    
    Move to the right side of the track before this turn.  Brake with the
    
    wheels parrallel and slide this final lamer by clipping the apex.  You
    
    should be at the right side of the track when the turn ends.
    
    
    
    Turn 25
    
    -------
    
    You should now be able to complete the track without any further problems.
    
    Stay as low as you can in this turn for some much needed speed.  If you
    
    are wearing HH Racing Tires, I recommend that you pull over to the pits
    
    every 6-10 laps (because the higher the curb weight, the shorter the
    
    tire life).  If you are using SS Racing Tires, then you're out of luck.
    
    
    
    ========================================================================
    
    FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
    
    
    
    The purpose of creating Gran Turismo FAQs grouped by License Classes is
    
    to provide help in how to pass the license tests, and how to get first
    
    place in each track and series. This also happens to be one of the
    
    PlayStation games where I've been receiving lots of stupid e-mail about
    
    questions that can be easily answered by myself when I was only 7 years
    
    of age. Before you even e-mail me about Gran Turismo again, you are
    strongly advised to look over this section before e-mailing me.  Most
    of your questions should be answered by just simply looking at this FAQ
    and/or just by looking at this section!
    
    
    
    Q: Is there a code to unlock the 1967 Chevrolet Corvette in the Simulation
    
       Mode of the game?
    
    
    
    A: Hell no. This car is only available at the Arcade Mode of the game.
    
    
    
    Q: How come you don't write any FAQs for the Arcade Mode of the game?
    
    
    
    A: Simple. Because much of the game's replay value is centralized
    
       throughout the Simulation Mode.
    
    
    
    Q: Why do you tell me to use the FWD and AWD cars in any of your GT
    
       FAQs?
    
    
    
    A: They're a lot more stable and more forgiving to drive than Rear
    
       Wheel Cars, which require a lot of respect. My personal favorite
    
       is the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition with AWD, a great prize you
    
       can have for winning the US Versus Japan Championships.
    
    
    
    Q: Why don't you use the Concept Car?
    
    
    
    A: I hate the Concept Car. It's rather unstable and it sucks (IMHO).
    
       However, Adrian Pepper recommends that you try it in one race
    
       although you may hate the unstable nature of the car. You have to
    
       test the car and keep on fiddling the car until you find the right
    
       settings for you. To caution you, never, ever, ever fiddle the
    
       car's settings (you've got to know the car's strengths and weaknesses
    
       first) unless you know what you're doing.  This is my most hated
    
       car from my perspective, and this car isn't Mark Kim-approved
    
       at all.
    
    
    
    Q: Do I NEED to run all stages of Weight Reduction before buying the
    
       Racing Body?
    
    
    
    A: Now this is one interesting question. I usually purchase all stages
    
       of Weight Reduction before buying the Racing Body. However, this is
    
       what has Brian McNulty said to me on a previous message:
     
    
       "I am writing to you about your B, A, and IA strategy guides. I have
    
        noted several times that you make notes telling people to 'Make sure
    
        that you buy all the stages of weight reduction before you buy the
    
        racing modification'.
    
    
        This is not acurate in that your car will weigh the same after the
    
        racing modification regardless of whether or not you buy the weight
    
        reduction or not.
    
    
        I conducted an experiment with Mutsubishi GTO Twin Turbo. The car
    
        brand new weighs 3769 lbs, after three stages of weight reduction,
    
        AND, racing modification it weighed 2713 lbs.
    
    
        I then bought another GTO same color and all weighing 3769 lbs. off
    
        the lot and performed ONLY the racing modification. Both of these
    
        cars *Castrolized* weighed 2713 lbs, one with the racing mod., the
        other without.
    
    
        Try it some time and E-mail me with the results."
    
    
    
    Q: What are the best cars to use for each series?
    
    
    
    A: Here's the lowdown:
    
    
       Sunday Cup: A car that's powerful enough.
     
    
      Clubman Cup: An adequately-powered up Nissan Skyline GTS-R
       GT Cup: A fully-tuned Nissan Skyline GTS-R or a Mitsubishi FTO LM
    
    
       GT World Cup: Same as with the GT Cup
    
    
       Front-Wheel Drive: Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R, Fully Tuned, Racing
    
       Body under your discretion.
    
    
       Rear-Wheel Drive: Dodge Viper or TVR Cerbera. The Viper GTS-R
    
       and Cerbera LM are also strong cars.
    
    
       All-Wheel Drive: Any Nissan Skyline GTS-R
    
    
       Featherweight Championships: Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R, Fully
    
       Tuned.  I personally would try to get a racing body with this one.
    
    
       US Versus Japan: Nissan Skyline GTS-R or Mitsubishi FTO LM
    
    
       Japan Versus UK: Nissan Skyline GTS-R or Mitsubishi FTO LM
    
       US Versus UK: TVR Cerbera LM or Dodge Viper GTS-R
    
    
       Commercial Car Championships: Dodge Viper GTS/RT-10 (Don't do
    
       anything to it) or the Rarity from the IA License Tests.
    
    
       Heavily Tuned Championships: Heavily Tuned Nissan Skyline GT-R
    
       (No Racing Bodies).  This is the hardest race to win on because
    
       you can't bring along your big-daddy racing cars to this one, which
    
       is a sad moment!
    
    
       Megaspeed: Nissan Skyline GT-R V-Spec or Mitsubishi GTO
    
       Twinturbo/MR fully fiddled for speeds of at least 245 mph
    
    
       Grand Valley Endurance: Mitsubishi FTO LM
    
    
       Special Stage Route 11 Endurance: Mitsubishi FTO LM
       Special Stage Route 11 Reverse Endurance: Heavily Tuned Nissan
    
       Skyline GT-R (No Racing Bodies).  This is another difficult race to
    
       win.  Definitely configure your car for handling here.
    
    
    
    Q: I can't get past License A-4!
    
    
    
    A: This is one of the game's toughest tests in the Simulation Mode. The
    
       key in this license test is to corner through bad turns without blatant
    
       slowdown. The Nissan Skyline GT-R VSpec isn't an easy car to use so
    
       this track may require use of Manual Transmission. At the starting line,
       you want to cut through the apex and stay inside
    
       all the way at full speed. Slow down ahead of time from the outside
    
       before the first sharp turn and don't brake too hard. Cut the apex of
    
       the sharp turn and use short taps of the gas to buffer the cornering.
    
       If you have to slow down, just use short taps of the pedal. At the
    
       final major turn, you want to be at the outside and then just use the
    
       gas pedal. Cut the apex. Try to keep a smooth line all the way so
    
       that you don't lose speed from sliding through the turn. This test
    
       takes a lot of getting used to so don't get pissed if you can't pass it
    
       your first couple of times. This test mainly sees how competent of a
    
       driver you are rather than on speed.
    
    
       Be sure to pay attention to my Gran Turismo A-Class License Guide as
    
       it has some rough hypothesis on this cheap test!
    
    
    
    Q: Tell me the eligible cars for the featherweight championships!
    
    
    
    A: The eligible cars are as follows:
    
    
       * Toyota Starlet Glanza V
    
       * Toyota Corolla Levin BZG
    
       * Toyota Sprinter Trueno BZG
    
       * Toyota AE86 Corolla Levin GT-APEX
    
       * Toyota AE86 Sprinter Trueno GT-APEX
    
       * Mitsubishi FTO 1994 GR
    
       * Mitsubishi FTO 1994 GPX
    
       * Mitsubishi FTO GPX
    
       * Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R
    
       * Mitsubishi Mirage Asti RX
    
       * Mitsubishi Mirage 1992 Cyborg R
    
       * Acura Integra GS-R
    
       * Acura Integra Type R
    
       * Honda Civic Sedan
    
       * Honda Civic Racer
    
       * Honda Civic 3-Door
    
       * Honda Civic Del Sol S
    
       * Honda Civic Del Sol Si
    
       * Honda Civic 1991 CR-X Si
    
       * Honda Civic 1993 3-Door
    
       * Honda Civic 1993 Sedan
    
       * Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster 1989 Normal
    
       * Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster 1990 V-Special
    
       * Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster 1992 S-Special
    
       * Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster Normal
    
       * Miata Eunos Roadster V-Special
    
       * Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster S-Special
    
       * Mazda Demio GL-X
    
       * Mazda Demio GL
    
       * Mazda Demio LX G-Package
    
       * Mazda Demio A-Spec.
    
    
       All cars (with the exception of the Demio A-Spec) are shown on your
    
       GT Manual and Instruction Book.
    
    
    
    Q: I can't get past License Test B-3!!!
    
    
    
    A: It's time for the real fight. This test is possibly the toughest test
    
       among the B-Class License Tests. Since the Honda Civic Del Sol
    
       doesn't have lively acceleration and excellent speed, your best bet is
    
       to stay at the right side of the track and try to slow down ahead of
    
       time. Don't use the brakes since you may blatantly slow down. Use
    
       short taps of the Gas to level around the apex and make sure that
    
       you keep a smooth driving line so that you don't lose too much speed.
    
       I highly recommend using the Manual Transmission for this track.
    
    
    
    Q: I CAN'T PASS A SINGLE IA-LICENSE TEST!!!
    
    
    
    A: All of these IA-Class License Tests are set on the Time Trials,
    
       requiring you to utilize just about everything you learned from the
    
       B and A Class Events. If for any reason you can't master any of the
    
       IA-License Tests, then here are the solutions:
     
    
       1. Try attempting on all of the first seven License Tests. If
    
          for any reason you can't pass any of the seven license
    
          tests, then just exit out of the IA License Tests and save
    
          your progress to your Memory Card.
     
    
       2. The best way to know how to use the Dodge Viper GTS
    
          Coupe is to throw the Dodge Viper GTS Coupe on the
    
          Commercial Car Championships. Buy a Viper GTS Coupe
    
          and don't do anything to it. Not only this is a great way
    
          to get used to the Viper GTS Coupe, but it's also a great
    
          way to earn some cold hard cash.
    
    
       3. Try to buy a TVR Griffith and don't do anything to it. Test
    
          the TVR Griffith through the "freelance" Time Trial Runs
    
          and see how good you are with the Griffith. You may
    
          need to practice with the TVR through the Sunday Cup a
    
          few times to get used to it.
    
    
       4. I personally would try to get used to a car with at least
    
          500 Horsepower. There are plenty of Racing Models that
    
          has lots of horses under the hood. Also, try to get used
    
          to a fully-tuned, racing modified Nissan Skyline GT-R or a
    
          Mitsubishi GTO TwinTurbo/MR.
    
    
       5. I personally would participate in any of these A-Class
    
          Series: All International Competition Series, GT Cup, and
    
          the Commecial Car Series. Also, try to use a Rear-Drive
    
          Racing Car so that you can get used to the Rear-Drive
    
          Cars a lot better.
    
    
    
    Q: Please tell me what the cheats are.
    
    
    
    A: I'll make this clear: THERE ARE NO CHEAT CODES IN GRAN TURISMO!!!!
    
       Sony did a good job creating a game that has NO CHEAT CODES
    
       whatsoever. Cheat codes ONLY RUIN REPLAY VALUE so be it. PLEASE DO
    
       NOT BEG ME FOR ANY MORE GRAN TURISMO/GRAN TURISMO 2 CHEAT CODES
    
       THROUGH E-MAIL ANYMORE!!! I'm getting sick and tired of
    
       anybody begging me for any cheat codes!!!! If you EVEN DARE
    
       ask me for any cheat codes for Gran Turismo or Gran Turismo 2,
    
       then I will assume you spamming me.
    
    
    
    Q: What do you mean by "Castrolizing" the car?
    
    
    
    A: I use the term "Castrolize" as a classification when you tune up
    
       your car to the maximum possible levels.  This means maxing-out the
    
       brakes, gearshaft, horsepower, and all other attributes of the car.
    
       I'll leave the decision between weight reduction and racing body up
    
       to you, though.
    
    
    
    Q: When are you going to create an FAQ for Gran Turismo 2 for the Play
    
       Station?
    
    
    
    A: Definitely not.  I was overall disappointed with the sequel.
    
    
    
    ========================================================================
    
    THE DO'S AND DONT'S
    
    
    
    Again, this FAQ is for use only in the following sites:
    
    * Mark Kim's Website: http://home.comcast.net/~markkim31
    * GameFAQs http://www.gamefaqs.com
    
    
    
    
    If you find this FAQ is AT ANY OTHER SITE OTHER THAN THE LISTED ABOVE,
    
    THEN IT IS AN ILLEGAL COPY.  Please notify and/or warn me about this
    
    as soon as you can.  Thank you.
    
    
    
    In addition, only myself (Mark Kim, Vesther Fauransy) and Gamers.COM
    
    (http://www.gamers.com, Joel, please notify me of any address changes
    
    if you are reading this) are the ONLY ones who can HTMLize this file
    
    (with bug busts and grammar changes permitted).
    
    
    
    Why?  Because these sites are the only ones that keep all original work
    
    updated and up-to-date.
    
    
    
    You can always get the latest version of this FAQ at GameFAQs since I
    always put the latest version of my works right there first.
    
    
    
    
    GameFAQs does a good job keeping the files up-to-date at all times and
    is regarded as the most visited "stable" for FAQ-related walkthroughs,
    
    original work, and the like.
    
    
    
    Rules:
    
    
    
    * DO NOT place this file in your web site directly.  Only Joel Downs,
      GameFAQs, and myself have exclusive rights to this file.
    
    
    
    * If you are planning to link to any of the sites I have
    
      mentioned on this reminder, then you are to be advised that
    
      your linking rights are heavily limited as foretold on the
    
      webmaster's fine prints (depending on where you plan to make
    
      your link to).  If I'm too vague on this, then please visit
    
      the following URL to see why more and more webmasters are
    
      restricting links:
    
    
      = http://www.templetons.com/brad/linkright.html (Brad Templeton's
    
        Linking Rights Essay).
    
    
    ========================================================================
    
    REFERENCES OF THIS FAQ
    
    
    
    NO GT FAQ can be complete without giving "hard credit" for those who
    
    helped me out while I was still green on this game.  These people/sites
    
    are:
    
    
    
    *  Jaz Rignall (http://www.psmonline.com)
    
    *  GameFAQs.com (http://www.gamefaqs.com)
    
    *  Mousse Lee
    
    *  Mystery Rhee (http://mit.edu/mystery/www/gtfaq.txt)
    
    *  Sam Davis
    
    *  Fukomoto Atsushi (http://www.imasy.or.jp/~fukumoto/gt/)
    
    *  Secrets of the Sega Sages (http://www.segasages.com)
    
    *  Imagine Games Network (http://www.imaginegames.com)
    
    
    
    ========================================================================
    
    SUGGESTING SUGGESTIONS AND OTHER TRALALA
    
    
    
    Sending UCE to any of the mailboxes that I have is not tolerated.
    
    Period.  I report any incidence of spamming by checking the header on
    
    where you originated the message at and then report the incidence to
    
    the server you originated your message at (which is more likely to get
    
    you in deep trouble) or I can just slam you by sending complaints to
    
    the following: The server you originated the message at, to your
    
    provider, or possibly the Free-Mail Service that you use.  Don't spam
    
    me.  It's not worth it.
    
    
    
    In addition, I WILL _NO LONGER_ TOLERATE ANY E-MAIL ASKING ME FOR ANY
    
    CHEATS COMPATIBLE FOR GRAN TURISMO.  If you even dare ask me for any
    
    cheat codes for GT, then I will assume that you are spamming.
    
    
    
    See http://spam.abuse.net to see why it's bad.
    
    
    
    ========================================================================
    
    SOME RANTS
    
    
    
    After having to winder around the International A Class License tests,
    
    I managed to get my IA-Class License and saved this progress on my
    
    Memory Card.  This is good because I don't want to go through the
    
    trouble of having to get my license once again.  It may be hard to get
    
    your IA License but once you get it, then it's worth the effort of
    
    getting it.
    
    
    
    When I read one of GameFan's magazines (Commercial Magazines now suck
    
    these days, now that you can get hardcore strategies on the Internet
    
    for free), I've realized that there is NO CHEAT CODES listed for Gran
    
    Turismo.  Be it.  There is no cheat codes for Gran Turismo.  Sony will
    
    not create any cheat codes for any game that they might publish or
    
    develop and never will.  Cheat Codes only spoil replay value, and that's
    
    the bottom line!
    
    
    
    ========================================================================
    
    ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
    
    
    
    *  Jaz Rignall for being the standard example of Gran Turismo Domination
    
       and being the wiz in Gran Turismo.  Read his Gran Turismo Guide at
    
       http://www.psmonline.com.
    
    
    
    *  Sony and Polyphony Digital for creating the best PlayStation Game in
    
       the market ever yet.
    
    
    
    *  Toyota, Honda, Acura, Nissan, Mitsubishi, Mazda, Subaru, Chrysler,
    
       General Motors, TVR, and Aston Martin for permitting Sony to portray
    
       their cars in Gran Turismo.
    
    
    
    *  Fukomoto Atsushi, Sam Davis, Mousse Lee, and Mystery Rhee for being
    
       one of the many first FAQ Authors to produce a Gran Turismo FAQ.
    
    
    
    *  Secrets of the Sega Sages for secrets regarding about winning the
    
       Commercial Car Race.
    
    
    
    *  Imagine Games Network for accepting Sega Sages and GameFAQs.com as
    
       IGN Affiliates.
    
    
    
    *  Tigeraid (John Culbert) for using my Gran Turismo Documents as a basis
    
       for creating his own compendium.
    
    
    
    *  Joel Downs for creating HTMLized versions of my Gran Turismo Documents
    
       and for days of e-mail communication.
    
    
    
    *  GameFAQs for being the largest stable of original, fresh work.
    
    
    
    *  Chris MacDonald/Kao Megura for being the first 5MB FAQ Author.
    
    
    
    ** END OF DOCUMENT **
    
    
    
    Unpublished Work (tm) and (c) by Mark Kim.  All Rights Reserved
    
    Gran Turismo: (tm) and (c) by Sony Computer Entertainment.  Developed
    
    by Polyphony Digital.  All the cars, images, their likelinesses, and
    
    other real-life car-related events are (tm) and (c) of their respective
    
    owners.