Gran Turismo

                B-Class License Winning Strategies Guide

          Sony Computer Entertainment/Polyphony Digital for the

                       Sony PlayStation 1 Console

WARNING: This guide will ONLY work for the American versions of the game

                          Compiled by Mark Kim
                             Final Revision
                   Date of Completion: March 27, 2005


Copyright Information

---------------------

Unpublished work trademarked (tm) and copyrighted (c) by Mark Kim.

All Rights Reserved.


WARNING: This document is for use in the following websites only:
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 Gran Turismo is developed by Polyphony Digital under license by Sony

 Computer Entertainment, Inc.  This game is copyrighted 1997, 1998 Sony

 Computer Entertainment.  All Rights Reserved.  The cars, images, and

 all cars' likeliness are registered trademarks and copyrights of its

 respective owners.  All Rights Reserved.  This FAQ was created by Mark

 Kim in respect to Sony, Polyphony Digital, Mazda, Honda, Acura, Toyota,

 Mitsubishi, Aston Martin, Chevrolet, Nissan, TVR, Dodge, and Subaru

 Properties, as I have no intention of infringement on copyright on any

 of this work.


========================================================================

GENERAL INFORMATION



Make: Gran Turismo

Developer: Polyphony Digital

Publisher: Sony Computer Entertainment

Release Date: First Quarter 1998

ESRB Classification: E for Everyone, Suitable for All Ages

Genre: Racing

Platform: Sony PlayStation Type 1

MSRP: If still available, sold at very low prices as Greatest Hits
Recommended Controllers: Sony Analog Dual-Shock Controller

Features: Memory Card Save.  Each save requires in between 1-5 blocks.



========================================================================

HISTORY OF THIS FAQ


March 27, 2005: Final Update of this FAQ, so there will be no more updates.

========================================================================

CONTENTS OF THIS FAQ



*  Newsflash

*  My recommendations

*  Car Castolization Terminology

*  What is an International A Class License?

*  The Eight License Tests (Fukomoto Atsushi at fukomoto@imasy.or.jp)

   -  High Speed Ring Attack

   -  Special Stage Route 5 Attack

   -  Grand Valley Speedway Attack

   -  Deep Forest Attack

   -  Autumn Ring Attack

   -  Trial Mountain Attack

   -  Special Stage Route 11 Attack

   -  Grand Valley Speedway Reverse Attack (IA License Examination)

*  Gran Turismo World Cup

*  Supertuned Car Championship

*  Grand Valley Speedway Endurance Championship

*  Special Stage Route 11 Endurance Championship with Racing Cars

*  Special Stage Route 11 Endurance Championship without Racing Cars

*  The Do's and Dont's

*  Some Rants

*  Resources and Stuff

*  Acknowledgements

*  One Final Warning



========================================================================

NEWSFLASH



***AN IMPORTANT RANT FROM THE FAQ AUTHOR***



AS YOU SHOULD HAVE NOTICED FROM MY PREVIOUS WORKS, I WILL _NOT_ BE

ACCEPTING ANY E-MAILS FROM ANY WEBMASTER WHO SEEKS TO PLACE THIS FILE

ON THEIR OWN WEBSITE REGARDLESS OF THE CAUSE.  THIS IS BECAUSE THERE

ARE TOO MANY SITES THAT _STILL_ HAS THE OUTDATED VERSION OF MY WORKS

AND I REALLY HATE TO SEE IT LURKING AROUND THE INTERNET.  THE REASON
WHY I HAVE TO RESTRICT THE AMOUNT OF WEBSITES THAT CAN MIRROR MY WORKS

IS BECAUSE I WANT TO KEEP MY WORKS CURRENT AND UP-TO-DATE.  ANY MORE

E-MAILS REQUESTING PERMISSION TO MIRROR THIS FILE _WILL_ BE FILTERED.

THE ONLY SITES THAT HAVE MY SEAL OF APPROVAL TO MIRROR MY WORKS ARE

THE SITES LISTED IN THE COPYRIGHT INFORMATION IN THE BEGINNING OF

EVERY OF MY WORKS.



IF FOR ANY REASON YOU _DO_ MIRROR ANY OF MY WORKS ON YOUR OWN WEBSITE

WITHOUT MY SEAL OF APPROVAL, INSTANT LEGAL ACTION WILL BE TAKEN

IMMEDIATELY.  I APPRECIATE YOUR COOPERATION IN THIS MATTER AND AGAIN,

THE ANSWER WILL _ALWAYS_ BE NO IF FOR ANY REASON IF YOU WANT TO PLACE

THIS FILE INSIDE YOUR WEBSITE REGARDLESS OF THE CAUSE AND WHETHER THE

CONTENT FROM ANY OF MY WORKS IS EITHER GOOD OR BAD.



THIS HAS BEEN MY POLICY EVER SINCE I HAVE STARTED TO RESTRICT THE

AMOUNT OF SITES THAT ARE PERMITTED TO MIRROR MY WORKS AND IT WILL

ALWAYS BE.



Note: This notice is derived on Brett "Nemesis" Franklin's Crazy Taxi

FAQ for the Sega Dreamcast although there has been some variations to

make this one more severe and a bit more formal. Also, I will repeat

this near the end of the document.

Always check http://www.gamefaqs.com for the latest version of this
FAQ.  Like I said, this is the final update of the FAQ's life as I have
declared an EOL on this FAQ, so there will be no more updates!!!

Sorry.

This document, like all Video Game FAQs on the Internet, must be

viewed in a monotype font or the alignment will not be correct.  If

the alignment isn't correct for any reason, then please follow these

procedures:



1.  On Netscape Communicator, click on Edit, then Preferences.

2.  Click on Fonts at the Appearance Section

3.  At the Fixed Width Font, select Courier New, and select size 10

    point font.

4.  If you see this sample bulk of writing aligned correctly, please

    proceed:



1234567890

**********



It is strongly advisable that you *do* view this document through

the DOS Application Edit.COM or through the Apple Text Viewer SimpleText

for alignment purposes.  If you are planning to view this through

the Windows Interface, then you are highly advised to open up WordPad

and then open up the Text File.  Set the font face to Courier New and

set the font size to 10.


========================================================================

RECOMMENDATIONS



1.  You need to be a proud holder of the B-Class and A-Class License

    before getting your International A Class License.  Once you are

    eligible for these tests, you'll know why.



2.  I recommend that you keep a straight and smooth driving line on all

    tests because any skidding could slow you down.  Be careful not to

    course-out as you will fail the test if you do so.



3.  After passing the 7 tests, you'll use the Dodge Viper GTS Coupe

    and play your luck at the Grand Valley Speedway Reverse.  If you

    can pass the most difficult exam (you got the IA License!), then

    it's time to polish up your skills on any A-Class Special Event.



4.  After placing first on all A-Class championships, then it's time

    to press your luck at the GT World Cup, which is laden with

    nuisantic Castrol Mods.  To tell these somewhat lame Castrol Mods

    that resistance to your superiority is futile, earn the Mitsubishi

    FTO Limited Edition by winning the American and Japanese Car Series

    or buy the Mitsubishi GTO Limited Edition for 500,000 Credits.  As

    an alternative, you can heavily tune and "Castrolize" either your

    GTO Twin Turbo or Skyline GT-R to cheese through this Cup.  You

    will gain access to three Gran Turismo Hi-Fi races once you place

    first overall in this series.  I highly recommend getting the

    Mitsubishi FTO LM by winning the US Versus Japan series (The prize

    is random so don't get mad at me if you don't get it right away)

    before tackling this one.  Some people might say that the TVR

    Cerbera LM is the best car in the game.  The Cerbera LM _IS NOT_.

    It's the FTO LM which is the best car in the game because it's

    All-Wheel Drive, and it's forgiving to use.  I'm pretty much

    biased to the Japanese Cars in this game.



5.  To earn lots of money, buy a Dodge Viper GTS, and DON'T DO ANYTHING

    (tuning it up, reducing weight, or Castrolizing this car) so you can

    have a normal car at your garage.  Pit the Viper GTS on the oh-so-

    difficult Commercial Car Championship.  If you can place first on all

    five tracks, you should take home 350,000 credits.  If you pole

    position and dominate the series, then you should take home 400,000

    credits.



6.  Since you're not allowed to bring any Castrol Mods, Toyota Castrol

    Supra GT, Mitsubishi GTO Limited Edition, Nissan Nismo GT-R, Mazda

    RX-7 Limited Edition, Subaru Impreza Rally Edition, Acura NSX-R

    Limited Edition, or any other "cheap" special cars (like the Dodge

    Viper GTS-R and my personal fav Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition) on
    the Supertuned Car Championships and on the Special Stage Route 11

    Endurance Championship without Racing Cars, go to the Nissan Dealer,

    buy a new Skyline GT-R, and heavily tune this car to the max and

    cut its weight down, but DON'T CASTROLIZE THE CAR.  I have to say

    this because you will need a non-Castrolized car to enter either

    the Supertuned Car Championship or the Special Stage Route 11

    Endurance Championship without Racing Cars (Jaz Rignall for PSM

    Online located at http://www.psmonline.com)



7.  Gran Turismo is the most realistic racing game up to date, so I

    recommend that you just enjoy the game.  Although you may get pissed

    just because the computer races unfairly, you should try to discover

    new techniques or/and routines to improve your skills.  Having fun

    while playing Gran Turismo is the most important part that I'm asking

    of you.



8.  It is highly recommended that you check out Jaz Rignall's Gran
    Turismo Tips, Tricks, and Guides at http://www.psmonline.com
    at least once.



9.  If you don't have *at least* one at your home already, then I

    recommend going to your nearest authorized PlayStation Dealer to

    get a Dual Shock Analog Controller.  Please give your thumbs a rest

    by turning the Analog on to use the Left Analog Stick.  Trust me.

    It takes time to get used to, but once you get used to control the

    car with the left stick, then the control's excellent.  The most

    important part of the Analog Stick is that you're not numbing your

    thumbs too much.  This is useful on the endurance races because

    you're running 30-60 laps, and if you use the D-Pad too much, then

    you'll hurt your thumbs badly.



========================================================================

CASTROLIZATION OF THE CARS



When I first created this document about 2 years ago, I felt that if

you modify the cars to the teeth, then the cars would definitely be

unbeatable.  I was wrong.  Because each cars have its own strengths

and weaknesses, beefing the cars up to maximum strength varies from

car to car.  For example, a Viper GTS Coupe can't go up to NA Level

3 but starts out with a lot of horsepower and torque when you first

buy it.  On the other hand, some of the better cars in the game (i.e.

Nissan Skyline GT-R VSpec) _can_ be beefed up to the teeth with the

highest level modification parts available in the game.  Please

be warned that some cars may have higher prices as far as mod parts

are concerned.



Usually, cars perform better when they use maximum-strength modification

parts, but some cars perform better without the brute force they need.

Some of the Japanese Cars (i.e. Nissan Skyline GT-R VSpec) cannot perform

well unless you've placed a maximum-strength mod part or two.  That is

why learning the tracks and winning them all is as important as fully

tuning your cars to the teeth.



Unless you are a real mechanic, you should never fiddle with some of the

settings because you can either make a car unstable, stiff, or even

worse, unforgiving to use.  That is why you need to think twice before

even adjusting some of the car's properties (i.e. Suspension) before

even attempting this risk.  That is why some cars perform better when

fully Castrolized than the others.



Castrolizing your car involves tuning up your car with the following

Tune-Ups:



* Muffler and Air Filter

  = Racing Muffler and Air Filter

* Brakes

  = Sports Brakes

  = Brake Balance Controller

* Engine Tuning

  = Tuned ROM

  = Port Polishing

  = Engine Balancing

  = Bore and Stroke-Up (Increasing Displacement)

* For Turbo Cars

  = Turbo Kit Level 4

  = Racing High-Capacity Intercooler

* For Normal Aspirated Cars

  = Normal Aspiration Tuneup Kit Level 3 (This applies ONLY to some cars)

* Transmission

  = Racing Support Gearbox

  = Triple-Plate Clutch

  = Racing Flywheel

  = Carbon Driveshaft (only applies to certain cars)

* Suspension

  = Racing Support Suspension

  = Any Stabilizers (Remember overstiffening your car's suspension will

    equate to lousy driving)

* Tires

  = Soft/Soft Racing Tires

* Others

  = Weight Reduction All Stages (All stages of Weight Reduction MUST be

    performed in order

  = Racing Body Modification



Well, that's all I can say for now!!!



========================================================================

THE VIRTUE AND THE PRIVILEDGE OF THE INTERNATIONAL A CLASS LICENSE



Note: YOU MUST POSSESS AN A-CLASS LICENSE before attempting any IA-Class

License Tests as stated before.  The IA Tests are the hardest so don't

destroy your PlayStation if you can't do so.  Instead, follow a list

of my FAQs at http://www.verasnaship.net/text/gtfaqs.html.



An IA-Class License means that you've proven the Racing License Board

that your a competent driver and you know how to complete the toughest

track in the shortest amount of time possible.  It also means that you

can participate in all events, surpassing the participation volume of

both B-Class and A-Class License holders.  It also means that you're

able to keep the car under control even in the harsh situations in a

track, and you can handle Rear-Wheel Drive Cars efficiently. Holding the

International A-Class License, you should be able to do the following

according to Fukumoto Atsushi:



-  Completing all the tracks in the shortest possible time

-  Being capable of being a competent driver

-  Being able to avoid going off the course

-  Capable of driving any TVR and Dogde cars

-  Having the ability of keeping a smooth driving line at all times

-  Taking wicked corners without harsh sliding

-  Being able to use the "Slow-In, Fast-Out" maneuver



In addition to the B-Class and A-Class events that you can participate,

you are entitled to participate in these events provided that you have

finally earned the International A License from your hard efforts:



*  The GT League:

   -  Gran Turismo World Cup

*  Special Events:

   -  Great Valley Speedway 300 Mile Endurance Championship

   -  Special Stage Route 11 Endurance Championship with Racing Cars

   -  Special Stage Route 11 Endurance Championship without Racing Cars

   -  Supertuned Car Championship



========================================================================

INTERNATIONAL A CLASS LICENSE EXAMINATIONS



Note:  An A-Class License is required before you can take any of these

tests.



Index of tests:

IA-1:  Attack the High Speed Ring with the TVR Griffith

IA-2:  Attack Special Stage Route 5 with the Dodge Viper GTS

IA-3:  Attack Grand Valley Speedway with the TVR Griffith

IA-4:  Attack Deep Forest with the Dodge Viper

IA-5:  Attack Autumn Ring with the TVR Griffith

IA-6:  Attack Trial Mountain with the Dodge Viper

IA-7:  Attack Special Stage Route 11 with the TVR Griffith

IA-8:  Attack Grand Valley Speedway Reverse with the Dodge Viper



Note:  In order to take IA-8, you must pass the first seven tests first.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

IA-1: ATTACK THE HIGH SPEED RING

Test Car: TVR Griffith

Time Limit: 1'07"000

Prerequisite: None

------------------------------------------------------------------------

This could possibly be the easiest of the eight license tests.  However,

you need to make sure that you're not powersliding too much and that

you are keeping a *smooth* driving line for as much as you can.  I don't

know if *any form of cheating* would be acceptable in this test, so you

*do* have to e-mail me at vgfaqs@verasnaship.net if you come up with

something new.  With regards to this license test, I'll try to strike a

perfect balance of speed, handling, and control as much as possible.



Turn 1

------

You can take this first turn at full speed.  However, during the final

stretch of the turn, you'll have to be careful because the turn ends

with a *surprising* sharp left, and there's bound to be *some* grass

at the right side of the track.  Try not to hit the wall or touch the

grass as those would be grounds for failing the test.  You can slide

through the final stretch of the turn, but I consider this a pain.



Turn 2

------

You shouldn't be going any faster than ~100 mph while taking on this

turn.  Do a *zest* braking *just before the turn starts*.  When the

turn starts, you should be moving from the outside of the track and

into the inside.  However, you may have to go slower, depending on the

position that you start the turn.  When you exit the turn, grass will

be waiting for you at both sides of the track!  What a way to go!



Turns 3 and 4

-------------

Keep your speed under 80 mph (I mean it) when taking on these turns.

Cut your speed as early as you can (but not too early nor too late)

and when the turn starts, you should be moving from the outside to

the inside.  When trying to cut the apex of Turn 3, it's important

that you don't touch the grass (as you will instantly fail the test

if you do).  Be sure that you control the TVR efficiently during all

of Turn 3 because Turn 4 starts immediately after Turn 3.  I found

that rapid-gas tapping would work, provided that you are not over-

spinning the rear wheels and that you're not carrying the TVR into

a heavy drift.  At the start of Turn 4, you may want to do some

*slight* braking so that you can move from the right and into the

left.  As with Turn 3, you need to keep your speed under 80 mph (but

higher speeds may be possible if you are adventurous) and leaning to

the left side of the track (using rapid-gas tapping and making sure

to stay off the grass).  You should accelerate as the turn ends.  Be

sure not to touch the "greetings" grass as you exit the turn.



Turns 5 and 6

-------------

Go inside of the entire turn.  When the turn ends, be prepared to face

Turn 6.  Brake at a straight line to ~100 mph, and take the turn from

the inside of the track.  Accelerate *only* when you're confident that

you'll exit the turn without further problems.  Avoid the wall at the

right and the grass at the left at all costs while taking on this turn.

Now finish the track and hope you are fast enough.  If so, then save

this passed test on your memory card before taking another IA-Class

License Test.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

IA-2: ATTACK SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 5

Test Car: Dodge Viper

Time Limit: 1'30"00

Prerequisite: None

------------------------------------------------------------------------

This is one of the hardest license tests in the IA-Class because you

are being tested on your ability to be a competent driver to start.

Second of all, you will be tested on how well you can tame the Dodge

Viper on some of the lousiest turns in the track.  There's some areas

that you need to worry about.  I'll try to pin-point them as I walk you

along through this devilish test.



Turns 1 and 2

-------------

You can take the first turn at full speed.  However, the second turn is

where you have to cut your speed so you don't wind up scrapping the wall

at the right.  By the time you end the first turn, you should have

*already* braked to ~100 mph, and use some rapid gas tapping to avoid

hitting the wall at the right side of the screen.  Any wide skidding

is grounds for loss of speed, which is precious.  Just make sure that

you don't see any Tire Smoke while taking on Turn 2.



Turn 3

------

You may wish to take this turn at full speed, but I wouldn't do so as

this turn is *kind of* sharp.  Be sure that you are starting the turn

from the outside and move deeply into the inside.  The key to take on

this turn successfully is to keep a smooth racing line without having

to powerslide or any unneccessary/excessive slowdown.  You should be

in good shape when you take on Turn 4.



Turn 4

------

Slow down to ~60 mph and start the turn from the outside and move

gently into the inside.  A wide skid would result in a spin-out where

as starting the turn too late would be grounds for immediate fail.

This is a *painful* turn, so make sure that you're not doing so much

slowing down in the turn that you didn't beat this course in less

than 1'30"000.



Turn 5

------

Provided that you have indeed taken Turn 4 with *zest*, you should

be able to take this turn without much trouble and through full speed

ahead.  If you were sloppy during Turn 4, then I don't know how you

will be able to cope with this somewhat blind turn.



Turns 6 and 7

-------------

You can take on this Ess without losing any speed provided that you

keep a smooth racing line and that you started the turn the earliest

possible.  Be careful when trying to exit out of Turn 7 because

that's when you will be facing a weird straight.  Don't try to hit

the railings at the left side of the track (just before Turn 8

begins) as you will fail the test.



Turns 8 and 9

-------------

The key to undertaking these turns is to cut the apex for as much as

you can without any skidding or blatant slowdown.  You may wish to

slide at Turn 8 and take Turn 9 at full speed but that's pretty

dangerous to say because skidding takes away some precious speed

and melts down your tires viciously.  Try to target your speed

around ~85 mph by the time you start undertaking the first turn so

that you can take the second medium turn at full speed.  You should

be at the outside by the time the Hairpin begins.



Turn 10

-------

Start this Hairpin too late and you will fail the test.  Spin out

during the hairpin and you will be wasting valuable time.  Another

main concern during the IA-2 Test.  Slow down to ~40 mph before you

start taking on this hairpin and try to avoid any skidding as much

as you can so that you can take the next two turns without too much

effort.



Turns 11 and 12

---------------

Provided that you have taken Turn 10 with *zest*, you can take on

Turn 11 without losing speed.  At Turn 12, use the out-and-in with

*minimal* skidding so that you barely miss hitting the wall.



Turns 13-15

-----------

Major concern.  You may have to slow down to below 75 mph in order

to take on the first two sharps.  Make sure that you don't skid on

the first two turns because you'll need every ounce of control by

the time you take on Turn 15.  I would slow down somewhere around

the pedestrian crossing before Turn 13 begins.  At Turn 15, you

should do some skidding (though it's risky) provided that you've

taken Turns 13 and 14 carefully and without any heavy skidding or

spinning-out.  After you finish Turn 15, you will need to prepare

to take on Turn 16.



Turn 16

-------

Another Major concern.  You may want to start the out-and-in while

taking on this turn.  You may need to speed out if you think you're

going to hit the wall.  Rapid-gas-tapping's acceptable as long as

you're not crazy about skidding.  Now go onto the Straightaway to

the finish line and when you finish, hope that you're fast enough.

Provided that you have finished this track in under 1'30"000, save

the passed test on your Memory Card before going onto the Third

International A-Class License Test.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

IA-3: ATTACK GRAND VALLEY SPEEDWAY

Test Car: TVR Griffith

Time Limit: 2'03"00

Prerequisite: None

------------------------------------------------------------------------

You'll have to make sure that you are braking at a straight line and

making sure that you are using the "Slow-In, Fast-Out" technique in

order to cope with some of the wicked turns you will see in this test.

In order to block off an attempt to go off-track, I'm going to use a

good blend of speed and handling for as much as I can.  Since the TVR

Griffith may be heavy, I'm gonna force you to brake early as possible

and to avoid blatant wheelspin for as much as I can.



Turn 1

------

Use this turn to prepare yourself for Turn 2, which is a hairpin.  Make

sure by the time you *nearly* touch the straight before the hairpin

starts, brake to below 60 mph so you can take on this hairpin without

going off-track.



Turn 2

------

It's important to keep a smooth racing line for as much as you can in

this hairpin because you will need every drop of control while this

hairpin persists.  During this hairpin, you shouldn't be accelerating

and going no faster than 55 mph.  Just a little after the middle of

the hairpin, you should be accelerating, but only if you are confident

enough that you won't touch the grass.



Turns 3-5

---------

These rather gentle turns can be taken at full speed.  However, in

Turn 5, you may have to do a little drifiting because I found Turn

5 to be pretty dangerous during high speed entrances.  Make sure that

you have the car straightened by the time you exit Turn 5, or you'll

be sorry when you enter Turn 6, which is a hairpin.



Turn 6

------

The key to taking on this hairpin is to go no faster than 40 mph and

by keeping up a smooth racing line at all costs.  Brake preferrably

just a little after the middle of the straight so you will allow some

room for error, move to the left side of the track when you are done

braking, and cut the turn from the outside and into the inside.  You

should have the car recovered by the time you finish up taking on

this tight hairpin.



Turns 7 and 8

-------------

Cut the apex of each of the turn.  Brake just a bit so you can take

on these turns without any harsh risks of going out-of-track.  I

would say that you should take Turn 7 at 85 mph and Turn 8 at 65 mph

and you should not do any skidding here since you are going to be

spinning the rear tires blatantly.



Turn 9

------

Brake to 50 mph just before the turn starts.  Cut the turn from the

out-and-in, and make sure that you don't wind up into a blatant skid

which can overspin your rear tires.  You should have the car back to

straight position just before Turns 10 and 11.



Turns 10 and 11

---------------

Brake to ~68 mph just before Turn 10 begins and cut Turn 10 from the

out and in.  Don't acclerate or get into a heavy skid.  At Turn 11,

you should not be exceeding any faster than 85 mph to avoid possible

contact with the grass at the left side of the track.  I would take

Turn 11 with some rapid-gas tapping.



Turn 12

-------

Cut your speed to 100 mph just before this turn begins.  As the turn

starts, use rapid gas tapping for handling and try to stay in the

middle of the track for as much as you can.  You shouldn't be going

any faster than 95 mph while taking on this turn.  Don't let the

next straight fool you because you will have to face Turns 13 and 14

sooner or later, and if you want to pass, you will need to slow down

the sooner the better.



Turns 13 and 14

---------------

Hairpins in disguise.  Cut your speed to 40 mph just before the first

hairpin begins, and make sure that you are cutting from the outside.

Don't get into a blatant slide because you'll spin out if you do.

At Turn 14, you should do the "Slow-in, Fast-Out" maneuver in order

to cut the apex of the final hairpin.  You will need the car back to

straight standing by the time you finish taking on these two turns.



Turns 15 and 16

---------------

Turn 15 can be taken at full speed, but at Turn 16, you should do some

*slight* skidding by turning ahead of time and by cutting the apex.

The key onto taking Turn 16 is to test your ability to handle a medium

right turn without any blatant slowing down.  The ideal speed for Turn

16 would be around 96 mph.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

IA-4: ATTACK DEEP FOREST

Test Car: Dodge Viper

Time Limit: 1'23"00

Prerequisite: None

------------------------------------------------------------------------



Yep, it's the track that most beginners will more likely fail because

there's grass everywhere and simple grass contact will fail the test.

You need to keep your Viper under control if you wish to pass the test.

Face it.  You ARE outgunned.  You need to be in total control if you

want to pass the test.  Now in order to help you pass this test, here's

some major pointers in the track:



Turn 1

------

Cut your speed to under 70 mph, and take the turn from the outside and

into the inside.  Be sure that you do not accelerate during the turn

because you will risk going inside the grass (meaning that you fail the

test if you do).



Turns 2 and 3

-------------

Try to stay centered within these two turns, striking a good balance

between speed and handling, making sure that you do not strive for

lurid tailslides.  Try not to cut the apex because you may risk having

the wheels touch the grass.  Turn 3 is something to worry about because

you have to slow down in preparation for Turn 4.  Don't go too fast in

this area because you will need all the control to make it through the

next concern in the track.



Turns 4 and 5

-------------

You shouldn't be going any faster than 65 mph on this area.  Try to

keep a smooth racing line for as much as you can right over here.  Try

not to get into a lurid fish tail slide because that's when you are

about to touch the grass.  After Turn 5, you may have to make sure that

you are staying centered in the track because you have some evil bends

to take care of before the sixth major turn.  Try to remain centered

in this scene, and definitely forget cutting the apex.



Turns 6 and 7

-------------

Turn 6 can be taken with a mediocre tailslide (although I'm strongly

opposed to tail slides here).  Just before Turn 7, you should have the

car straightened up.  You can cut the apex at Turn 7 if you want, but

make sure that you are not poised to hit the right wall by the time you

enter the slight easy bends just before the eighth major turn.



Turn 8

------

You need to slow down ahead of time (but not too early) in order to

avoid contact with the grass at your right.  Stay centered in this turn

or you can cut the apex providing that you are not touching the grass

at the left side of the track.



Turns 9 and 10

--------------

The final stretch of the track.  Turn 9 can be taken at full speed (as

long as you don't go bonkers cheating on the test) and Turn 10 can be

taken with some sliding (provided that you are not willing to touch the

grass at either the left or right side of the track).  Cross the finish

line and hope that you have passed the test.  If so, then save your

passed test on the memory card before going onto another test.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

IA-5: ATTACK AUTUMN RING

Test Car: TVR Griffith

Time Limit: 1'24"00

Prerequsite: None

------------------------------------------------------------------------



Autumn Ring is one of the tougher courses because you have to avoid any

blatant cheating, as this is grounds for test failure.  Always make sure

that you are going as smooth as possible, and possibly try to use the

Slow-In, Fast-Out maneuver to take on harsh corners.  Cutting the Apex

is acceptable as long as you don't wind up cheating on some seemingly

tough corners.



Turn 1

------

Hairpin Right.  Slow down at a point where you can take on this hairpin

at an exceptionally high speed (but just about right so you don't have

to track-out all of a sudden).  Move the car from the outside and into

the inside.  You should try to be at the right side of the track when

Turn 2 begins.



Turn 2

------

You may be dizzy as you encounter this turn because you have to deal

with the chicanes right after this turn.  Again, move from the outside

and into the inside.  You should not be going too fast after this turn

because you are about to deal with the chicanes and not be cutting on

the corners too blatantly.  If you blatantly cut the corners, then you

will fail the test.



Turns 3 through 6

-----------------

Try to keep a smooth racing line so that you can cut the apex and not

blatantly cut the corners.  Try to stay centered after the first chicane

so that you will take on the second chicane without blatant cutoffs.

Forget about accelerating here.



Turn 7

------

This turn can be taken apex-cutting style with some controlled skidding.

You need to watch your speed and possibly slow down to where you can

take on the next hairpin with control because you will be entering this

hairpin at a high speed, and if you do not want to fail, don't let this

straight fool you.



Turn 8

------

You should have remained at the left side of the track and slowed down

at a point where you can take on this hairpin at a good speed, but just

about enough to make sure that you don't track-out.  Cut the apex using

the slow-in, fast-out method, and don't slide or you may be spinning

out and possibly track-out.



Turn 9

------

This hairpin shouldn't be as bad as the first two hairpins.  You need

to slow down so that you can cut the apex and prevent yourself from

tracking-out the course.  Turn 10 is coming up, so don't get too dizzy

from this turn and have the car straightened by the time you undertake

Turn 10.



Turn 10

-------

If you are adventurous, then take this turn at full speed turning

early and possibly cutting the apex.  Otherwise, it will be safe to

reduce your speed just right so that you can undertake this turn

without having to go track-out.



Turn 11

-------

This 235 is a killer.  You may have to cut your speed to 60 mph and

possibly try to slide throughout this turn.  This is a challenging

sector of the track because you need to slide without going off the

track and without spinning out.  After this turn, don't let the next

straight fool you because you have a chicane and a medium right coming

up.



Turns 12-14

-----------

You will need to cut your speed about right so you can cut the apex

of the first turn and treat the next two turns just before the next

medium right as one turn.  With regards about the chicanes, you need

not cut the apex since you risk hitting the barrier or touch the grass

for the least.  Don't let the next straight fool you as you need to

cut your speed so you can take Turn 15 without drama.



Turn 15

-------

Cut your speed and slide by cutting the apex on this lamer.  Make sure

that you do not accelerate until after the turn.  Straighten up your

car so you can take the final two turns without blatant slowdowns.



Turns 16 and 17

---------------

The final stretch of this track.  Turn ahead of time so that you can

cut the apex and take these two turns at full speed.  Cross the finish

line and hope that you were fast enough.  If you pass this test, then

save this passed test on your Memory Card before going on to the next

test.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

IA-6: ATTACK TRIAL MOUNTAIN

Test Car: Dodge Viper

Time Limit: 1'33"00

Prerequisite: None

------------------------------------------------------------------------



A good way to practice up on Trial Mountain just before the actual test

is to pit a Dodge Viper GTS on a Spot Race.  You should get a good idea

on what you are expected to do for the actual test.  Afterwards, it's

time to see if you can bring your skills up to level at this test.



Turns 1 and 2

-------------

Take these turns at full speed, making sure that you are turning ahead

of time, and that you are cutting the apex.  Be sure you have the Viper

straightened up before Turns 3 and 4.



Turns 3 and 4

-------------

Turn 3 can be taken at full speed using out-and-in.  Be sure that you

are turning ahead of time or you may be touching the grass (No touching

or propositioning of the ladies!!!!!  The grass reminds me of the ladies

for personal reasons during a license test.).  Don't let the bend fool

you because you need to slow down if you want to take on Turn 4 without

drama.  By the time you take on Turn 4, you should slow down to under

70 mph, cut the apex from the out-and-in, and as you fast-out of Turn 4

(provided that you are NOT TOUCHING THE GRASS), make sure you line up

at the left side of the track to take on Turn 5.



Turn 5

------

Don't let the straight fool you.  Turn 5 is sharp, meaning that you

need to take this turn at no faster than 55 mph, cutting the apex, and

not accelerating until after the turn.  Sloppy driving throughout this

turn are grounds for immediate fail.  Be sure that you have the car

straightened up as you take on the two slight bends before Turn 6.



Turns 6 and 7

-------------

The preferred speed to undertaking Turn 6 is 85 mph with some out-and-in

before the tunnel.  Turn 7 should be taken at between 75-80mph and you

should make sure that you are cutting the apex, slowing down just before

you exit the tunnel, and cutting as you leave the tunnel.  Have the car

straightened and enjoy the straight while it lasts.



Turn 8

------

Slow down to about roughly 70 mph (adjust depending on your experience)

as you see the turn coming up from the straight and take this turn from

the right and land into the left of the turn.  Don't accelerate until

after the turn.



Turns 9-11

----------

Cut the apex of each of the turns, but Turn 11 is where you'll have to

do your worry-abouties.  Slow down to 70 mph before Turn 11 starts,

cut the apex (don't touch the grass), and fast-out while straightening

up your car before Turn 12 comes to play.



Turn 12

-------

You will be carrying a better deal of speed if you slow down to around

70 mph ahead of time and using the In and out technique to take this

hairpin.  Be sure that you are staying clear of the grass if you decide

to stay low with this one.



Turns 13 and 14

---------------

The ideal speed to taking these turns is 106 mph with some apex-cutting.

Cut your speed after you pass the Bridgestone Tunnel in a straight line,

then cut the apex like you usually do.  If done correctly, then you don't

have to worry about touching the grass (ladies in my case).  Gotta be

careful if your Viper takes a dip because if you take this dip, be

prepared to spin-out of control and possibly fail the test.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

IA-7: ATTACK SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11

Test Car: TVR Griffith

Time Limit: 2'14"00

Prerequisite: None

------------------------------------------------------------------------



This is a tough test because you will have to deal with one of the most

painful courses I have to think about.  Also, it's important that you

try not to fishtail your car as you may get into a heavy spinout as you

take on certain turns.  It's important to slow down at a certain point

if you are bidding to pass the test.



Turn 1

------

Take this one at full speed.  Don't let the slight straightaway fool

you as the next turn is sharp.



Turn 2

------

Approach this turn as speed, and brake at a straight line from the left

side of the track.  As soon as you reach a desirable speed, slide (but

don't acclerate), cut the apex (but don't front-out the barrier), and

straighten up the car before Turns 3 and 4.



Turns 3 and 4

-------------

Take Turn 3 at full speed and immediately slide Turn 4, making sure

that you straighten up the car before Turns 5 and 6.



Turns 5 and 6

-------------

Approach Turn 5 by braking at a straight line, and slide Turn 5 without

accelerating.  Straighten up the car before Turn 6 comes, and do the

same thing with Turn 6 (but you may have to hit the wall, but hopefully

you shouldn't be able to front-up the barrier if you slide just in time).



Turn 7

------

A good way to cheat on this hairpin (I call this cheating on a lady) is

to line up your car at the left side of the track, and rub your car at

the left.  It may be necessary to do a little sliding to avoid any

sudden instant fail of the test.



Turns 8 and 9

-------------

Hopefully, your car is straightened up by the time you are taking these

two turns.  Turn 8 can be taken at full speed.  Slide slightly at Turn

9 to prevent an immediate fail, and try to rub your right tires at the

right wall (line up the car at the wall before doing this), and have the

car back in your control before Turns 10-13.



Turns 10-13

-----------

Fronting the barriers here will result in an immediate fail.  It is

important to keep yourself under control while taking on this chicane.

Ease up and try to keep a straight line to minimize the loss of control

in this area.



Turns 14 and 15

---------------

Take these turns at full speed, and definitely don't let the straight

fool you as Turns 16 and 17 (a deadly chicane) are coming up.



Turns 16 through 18

-------------------

Approach Turn 16 by braking to 60 mph ahead of time.  Slide Turn 16 and

take on Turn 17 the same way.  You should have the car straightened up

by the time Turn 18 starts.  Try to stay low in Turn 18 for as much as

you can.



Turn 19

-------

Try to brake during the slight left bent before the hairpin begins.

Start sliding when you are ready.  You may have to rub the wall a little

bit (but hopefully, you've slided to prevent yourself from fronting the

barrier too soon).



Turns 20 and 21

---------------

Try to slide during these two turns, and definitely right after Turn 21,

straighten up the car (don't spin-out, though) and get ready to cheat

on Turn 22.



Turn 22

-------

Align the wheels at the left side of the track.  Rub the wheels while the

hairpin is in progress.  Be sure that the car straightens up right after

the hairpin.



Turns 23 and 24

---------------

As soon as you see some of the Red showing up on this deadly chicane,

brake to 50 mph.  You should be ready to take on this crap chicane as

soon as this turn starts.  Hopefully you are lined up at the left side

of the track as the turn starts because you need to do some apex-cutting

if you want to pass, but if not, then I have no clue on how you will be

able to pass this test.



Turn 25

-------

Stay low on this turn as much as you can.  Cross the finish line and

hope that you are fast enough!!!  If so, then save this passed test on

the Memory Card!!!



------------------------------------------------------------------------

IA-8: ATTACK GRAND VALLEY SPEEDWAY REVERSE (IA-CLASS EXAMINATION)

Test Car: Dodge Viper

Time Limit: 1'59"00

Prerequisite: Must complete the first seven IA-Class License Tests

first.

------------------------------------------------------------------------



You have to complete the first seven IA-Class License Tests before you

can attack Grand Valley Speedway Reverse.  There's a lot of unfamiliar

turns and strange twists so you will need to compete in a mock Time

Trial using an unmodified Dodge Viper GTS before taking this test for

practice.  Try to keep a smooth racing line and definitely forget any

drifting in this course for speed.



Turns 1 and 2

-------------

Approach this turn cutting your speed to under 120 mph.  Stay low for as

much as you can for this turn.  Turn 2 is a piece of cake, but don't let

this turn fool you as you need the control if you want to take on Turns

3 and 4 without drama.



Turns 3 and 4

-------------

Try to cut your speed as early as you can before Turn 3 starts.  The

ideal speed overall on this deadly chicane is 40 mph.  Try to keep a

smooth racing line for as much as you can because Turn 2 is long and

tends to dizzy you out as Turn 3 starts.  Touching the wall at the

right too long during Turn 3 results in immediate fail of the test.



Turn 5

------

Cut your speed slightly so that you will avoid any foreign front-ups

during this turn.  Be sure that you are keeping a smooth racing line

in this turn in preparation for the straight.



Turn 6

------

The best time to slow down on this turn is when you are exiting the

drawbridge.  As the turn begins, try to slide (it's dangerous), and

definitely have the car straightened up at Turn 7.



Turn 7

------

Very dangerous turn.  You may have to slow down to 65 mph, stay low

throughout most of the turn, and forget accelerating until after the

turn.



Turn 8

------

The best time to slow down to 50 mph is right after the gentle left

bend terminates.  You must keep your foot off the gas if you want

to slow down in a jiffy.  Take this turn in-and-out style.  Make

sure that you are lined up at the left side and forget about speeding

up until after the turn because if you are too sloppy in this one,

then you'll fail the test.



Turns 9 and 10

--------------

While trying to slow down to a speed that enables you to go fast

enough to commence an under 119-second finish, try to stay low on

these two while maintaining control of the car.



Turn 11

-------

Slow down to 40 mph ahead of time before the turn starts.  Make sure

that you are at the right side of the track before the hairpin starts.

Cut the apex and straighten up the car so that you will be able to take

on Turns 12-14 without drama.



Turns 12-14

-----------

Cut the apex on each of these turns, and be careful of any possible dips

that may exist on these turns.  You can take on these turns if you are

careful enough.



Turn 15

-------

Hardest of the turns because you're entering this turn at speeds of up

to 135mph.  Slow down just before the side-slanting begins.  Have your

gas off the pedal and almost immediately brake.  You should be lined up

at the right side of the track and when your speed reaches 60 mph, cut

the apex, and don't accelerate until after the hairpin.  Now you should

be able to finish up GVS without any further problems.  Cross the finish

line and hope you are fast enough!!!  If so, then save your IA-Class

License on your Memory Card, and enjoy all the International A Class

Events.



========================================================================

GRAN TURISMO WORLD CUP

Number of Tracks: 6

Laps per Track: 3

Required Class License: IA-Class

Restriction of Car Type: None

Tracks involved: High Speed Ring, Trial Mountain (ass-spanking time!),

Grand Valley Speedway, Special Stage Route 5, Deep Forest (grass time!),

and Special Stage Route 11 (hardest of the 11 tracks in the game).  If

you don't believe me, then please read Stephen Rhee's FAQ at this URL:



-  http://www.mit.edu/mystery/www/gtfaq.txt



Pole Position Bonus: 10000 Credits

Finish First in the Track Bonus: 20000 Credits

Series Winner Bonus: 50000 Credits

Car you get for winning the race: Gran Turismo Hi-Fi in the Special

Event Menu (Not a car, but an addy you get for beating Gran Turismo!)

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Vestiroth's note: This is IMHO the hardest class in Gran Turismo.  You

will be racing against Castrol Mods galore, but the cars aren't as

severe as with some of the special events requiring an IA-Class License

you'll be participating on later on your career.  Even though this seems

to be hard, here's some suggestions that you should follow in order to

blow away the seemingly hard cars (though you may not be able to pole

position on all courses):



1.  Participate in the Japanese and American Sports Car Championships,

    and win the series two consecutive times.  You *should* get the

    Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition and the Dodge Viper GTS-R.  As soon

    as you get these strong cars, save them on the Memory Card before

    throwing the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition to the Japanese and

    British Sports Car Championships.



2.  Participate in the Japanese and British Sports Car Championships

    using the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition that you won during the

    Japanese and American Sports Car Championships.  Win the series

    two *consecutive* times to earn the Honda Civic Del Sol Limited

    Edition and the TVR Cerbera Limited Edition.  Dump the Civic Del

    Sol back to Honda and save your Cerbera Limited Edition on your

    memory card.  I hate Honda Cars (with the exception of the Acura

    Integra Type R).  They all suck (IMO).  After saving the TVR on your

    Memory Card, then blow the competition to a crisp at the British and

    Anerican Car Championship.



3.  Participate in the American and British Car Championship by either

    using the Dodge Viper GTS-R or the TVR Cerbera Limited Edition (I

    prefer the TVR Cerbera Limited Edition).  Blow the Competition away

    two consecutive times and earn either The Mazda RX-7 A-Spec
    Limited Edition or my most personally hated car in the game: The
    Chrysler Concept Car.  Neither of these cars are either good or
    my favorites.



4.  Provided that you *have* passed the most difficult exams Gran Turismo

    has to offer (saving your IA-License on your Memory Card) and that

    you *do* have three of my personal favorites in the game: (Mitsubishi

    FTO Limited Edition, Dodge Viper GTS-R, and TVR Cerbera Limited

    Edition), it's time to blow the competition away at the Gran Turismo

    World Cup!



5.  For this guide, I'm going to use my favorite car--YES, that's the
    Mitsubishi FTO LM.  Some think that it's not the best car in the
    game, but actually, it's one of my favorite cars in the game, and
    also one of the most forgiving cars to use.



6.  Fiddle up your settings that you can be prepared to take on the

    crappiest situations in the series.  You need to make sure that your

    settings are up to par with the competition.  For the least, make

    sure that you have your brakes on both sides to Level 15, and have

    your Gear Ratio adjusted so that your speed goes up to AT LEAST 190

    mph on straightaways.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

HIGH SPEED RING



This is a course where Toyota Castrol Supras, Nissan Skylines, and other

cars that have high top speed do the most damage in.  Make sure that you

configure your car so that you can max out your Top Speed but make sure

that you have some handling in mind because there are some sharp turns

in this track if you forgot.  A smooth racing line is all you need to

win this race.



Turn 1

------

Take this turn at full speed.  Be sure at the final stretch of the turn

that you *slightly* slow down so you don't have to worry about hitting

the wall at the right by the time the turn ends.



Turn 2

------

You may want to brake as late as possible so that you can skid here at

higher speeds.  Be sure that you are taking this turn out-and-in, and

by the time you leave the turn, you should prepare for Turns 3 and 4

without much trouble.  Have the car straightened.



Turns 3 and 4

-------------

You may have to do some *blatant* slow down here since these turns are

the most dangerous turns in the track.  I would cut my speed to around

90 mph so I won't be touching the grass or hitting the wall.  Try to

do some rapid gas tapping in this area.  A feel of the gas is required

to ensure control of the Mitsubishi GTO at all costs.



Turn 5

------

Provided that you took Turns 3 and 4 without any blatant trouble, this

would be a good place to prepare for Turn 6.  Stay to the right side

of the track, making sure that you *barely* miss the grass at the right

side of the track.  When Turn 6 starts, you should try to slow down in

a straight line and start taking Turn 6 from the outside and into the

inside.



Turn 6

------

Provided that you have slowed down to ~120 mph, you can take this turn

without having to release the gas pedal.  Make sure that you speed out

if necessary if you feel that you're going to get closer to the wall

at the right.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

TRIAL MOUNTAIN



Since you will be taking on a track with many slants, chances are that

you may need to play around with the Suspension Settings in order to

settle down for a smooth ride at Trial Mountain.  Also, you may need to

increase the strength of Brakes on both Front and Rear so that you can

take on hairpins and allow some error for some of the bizarre corners.



Turn 1&2

--------

Take the left turn from the out and in, making sure that you're turning

ahead of time.  Please be aware that you may bounce when you try to cut

the apex on the first part of the ess so be prepared to keep a firm

grip of the steering wheel.  The second part of the ess can be taken at

full speed provided that you've been under control of your car at the

first part of the ess.  For control, I wouldn't go any faster than ~120

mph with some *controlled* steering applied here.



Turns 3&4

---------

You should be able to take Turn 3 at full speed.  However, when you

undertake Turn 4, you should try to prepare to take Turn 5 so you don't

end up hitting the wall or grass after the tunnel.  Try to cut your

speed as soon as you get a fair view of the tunnel so you don't skid

too hard.



Turn 5

------

You shouldn't be going any faster than ~60 mph-~70 mph while inside the

tunnel.  Be sure that you do not accelerate until after the turn.  Now

I will have to warn you that *you will be taking a dip* right after

this turn so you will need to keep a firm grip of your car providing

that you finish undertaking this turn.



Turn 6

------

Don't ever, ever, ever go any faster than ~50 mph because if you do,

then you could either hit the wall or mown the grass (something that

you don't want to do).  Slow down as you are taking a slight dip, then

begin drifting as soon as you get to your desired speed.  Try to take

the turn from the out-and-in so you will have a great deal of speed to

chew in by the time you exit this turn.  If you get inside the grass,

make sure that you get out of this grass as soon as you can.  Please

don't accelerate until after the turn.



Turns 7&8

---------

You can take these turns at full speed, but make sure that you're

alert of Turn 9, which comes up shortly after this gentle ess.  Cut

your speed as soon as you exit out of Turn 8.



Turn 9

------

Cut your speed to ~90 mph ahead of time and as the turn starts, you

should try to skid as much as you can during this turn (although you

shouldn't do this because you're melting the tires).  Once you're in

the tunnel, you should try to prepare to undertake Turn 10 so that

you're not so wrapped up in your success of undertaking this turn.



Vestiroth:  On Trial Mountain, you should not be overconfident after

you undertake any turn successfully because there's bound to be turns

following the next, which makes this course a test of racing prowess.



Turn 10

-------

Brake to no less than 80 mph and start skidding inside to the next

tunnel.  Although this turn isn't difficult, you need to be sliding

and your speed must not be exceeding 85 mph by all means.  Please

make sure that your taking this turn as early as possible so you'll

have some speed to chew from at the long straightaway.



Vestiroth:  Trust me.  You'll hate the Impreza Rally Edition for its

160 mph barrier after driving this lamer on the straight before Turn

11.



Turn 11

-------

The best time to cut your speed is when you see some sections of this

rather sharp turn.  When the turn's about to start, you should be at

no more than 90 mph, skidding throughout most of the turn, and never

accelerating until after the turn.  If you can go inside the yellow

OSHA lane, then it's a good thing because you're attempting to keep

a smooth racing line, something that's important in Gran Turismo.



Turns 12&13

-----------

Since you're inside a four-wheel driver, you should have no problem

keeping a smooth racing line in preparation of Turn 14.  Turn 13

seems to be more dangerous than Turn 12 because the turn's sharper

than in Turn 12, but the turn shouldn't be too bad providing that

you're alert of the turn at all times.



Turn 14

-------

Ancient words of wisdom:  Don't go any faster than 70 mph.  Cut

your speed as soon as you finish Turn 13 (but don't brake the car

that you're slanting to the left side of the track).  Cut the apex

but don't go inside the grass.  Try to skid as much as you can in

this hairpin.  By the time you get out of this turn, you should have

barely missed the edge of the track, and you should have the car

straightened.  Don't let the straight fool you because you're about

to face yet ANOTHER HAIRPIN in the *blue*.



Turn 15

-------

You will be carrying a good amount of speed if you try to keep a smooth

line as much as you can in this turn.  Try not to drift because not

only you will burn and melt the tires, but you risk going inside the

grass which you don't want to do.  So keep a smooth racing line.  Slow

down as soon as you see some sections of the hairpin (but don't slow

down too early).  Take the turn from the outside and into the inside.

You shouldn't be going any faster than ~70 mph.  By the time you exit

the turn, you should be accelerating and staying alert of the final

ess, which IMHO is the worst part of Trial Mountain.



Turns 16&17

-----------

Don't go any faster than 110 mph here.  Try to cut both Esses from the

out and in, making sure that you turn ahead of time to avoid any dipping

and jumping (which is unnessary) from the brink of error.  The best time

to slow down is just a *little* after you pass the tunnel.  Keep the car

straight whenever you slow down because if you slant the car while you

brake, you may end up screwing up big time!



Vestiroth:  This is the horrible area of the game because there's grass

on both sides of the ess, and you may take an unneccessary jump if you

go inside the grass and eventually lose control, so don't take this ess

at full speed.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

GRAND VALLEY SPEEDWAY



Hopefully you've got a good idea on how to use an All Wheel Drive Car

(either a Subaru Impreza Rally Edition or a Mitsubishi GTO Limited

Edition) from the GT Cup.  If not, then no big deal.  The only contrast

is that you won't be able to Pole Position on this track unless you

learn how to pilot an All Wheel Drive Car.  Before you perform a Free

Run Session, make sure that you set the Brakes to Level 15 because

you will need to cut your speed drastically if you want to allow some

room for error here.



Turn 1

------

Being dizzy right after starting will make you uncomfortable on the

second turn, which is a hairpin.  You'll want to cut your speed as soon

as you finish up taking on the gentle left so that you'll have your

speed *reasonably* reduced by the time you take on the first hairpin

turn in the track.



Turn 2

------

If you were able to cut your speed (I recommend releasing the gas pedal

and by the time you hit the *slight* straight brake to ~60 mph and do

some sliding) as you were taking on the first turn in preparation of

this hairpin, then great.  If not, then be prepared to either touch

the dirt or deal with a spinout!  It's important that you cut your

speed (if you're going over 120 mph at the start of Turn 1) as early

as Turn 1, and start reacting by the time you reach Turn 2 so you can

allow some room for error by the time you reach the next straight, a

gateway to a rather gruesome S-curve coming up.



Turns 3-5

---------

Although this Ess can be taken at full speed, be aware that you'll

need to probably be sliding on Turn 5 in order to avoid any unwanted

dipping and contact with the racing slant at the left or right side

of the track.  If you did not turn ahead of time at Turn 5, then

you're bound to touch some grass, and eventually wind up spinning out

of control.  You'll need to be in good shape when you take on Turn 6, a
really naughty hairpin.



Turn 6

------

Ancient words of wisdom:  Slow down ahead of time for control.  By the

start of the hairpin, your speed shouldn't be exceeding 42 mph.  Take

the hairpin from the outside and slowly move to the inside, but don't

touch the slant as you'll take an unwanted dip right there.  Don't let

the next straight fool you as you'll have to take on a rather *sharp*

left.



Turn 7

------

I would slide this lamer and start sliding from the outside of the

turn and work my way to the inside, making sure that my wheels are

*next* to the slant, but not touching it.  I should be staying near

the leftmost side of the track when I finish this turn because Turn

8 is coming up.



Turn 8

------

As with Turn 7, I would slide and take this turn from the outside and

work my way to the inside, making sure that my wheels are near the

slant (but not touching it), and continue to stay near the rightmost

side of the track because Turn 9 is coming up, and believe me, Turn 9

is a sharp left (a carryover from the Sunday Cup and all other B-Class

Races).  Turn 8 is indeed a lot deadlier than Turn 7 so you may have

to go slower on this turn as opposed to Turn 7.



Turn 9

------

Deadly Sharp Left.  Before you enter this turn, make sure that you're

not going any faster than ~50 mph.  Start the turn from the outside,

work your way inside.  If you performed this turn correctly, then you

should *barely* miss the wall.  If you took this turn lousy, then be

prepared to hit the wall or spin out.  Try not to slide here because

that's where beginners tend to overspeed and overslide, causing major

spinouts and problems that may show your vulnerability towards your

opponents.



Turn 10

-------

As deadly as this painfully sharp left may seem, it seems to be a *bad*

hairpin in disguise (but shouldn't be that bad).  Try to slow down as

early as you can so you don't have to overslide and spin out on this

turn.  I would say that ~60 mph would be safe (safe enough to avoid the

grass at the right), though my experimentation's been limited.  If you

are going too fast or skidding too sloppy, then a nice Tunnel Wall is

waiting for you at the start of Turn 11.



Turn 11

-------

If you have taken Turn 10 neatly, great.  At Turn 11, don't go any

slower than 90 mph.  I would slide throughout the turn and possibly

use a *little* rapid gas tapping so that I don't accelerate until

after the turn finishes and the straightaway begins.  Use the straight

before Turn 12 efficiently because at Turn 12, you'll have to cut your

speed *just a little* before the straight terminates.



Turn 12

-------

Is your speed cut to ~110 by the time the turn started?  Well, do some

*controlled* rapid gas tapping as the turn keeps "going and going" and

refrain from accelerating until the turn ends.  Failure to do this will

result in rail contact at the left, which may damage your tires.



Turns 13 and 14

---------------

No matter what kind of Gran Turismo Player you consider yourself, this

is something to worry about in Grand Valley Speedway.  Cut your speed

to ~74 mph *as* you enter the first turn.  Drift throughout the first

turn using out-and-in.  You should not be going over ~60 mph on average

during the first turn, although I'm saying ~74 mph (you lose speed as

you slide).  On Turn 14, cut your speed to around ~50 mph, take the turn

from the out-and-in, and refrain from accelerating until after you

complete this turn.  You should be at around ~40 mph by the time your

at the final stretch (You tend to lose lots of speed here, so don't go

too fast as these turns are hairpins in nature).



Turn 15

-------

The key here is to take this turn without any unneccessary slowing down

or having to touch the grass on either side.  I would say that ~130 mph

with some sliding (assuming that you started turning as the turn starts)

would be safe enough to avoid the slant and grass at the left.  On the

second and third lap, you'll need to be careful when taking on Turns 1

and 2 because you may be at about 175 mph (on Class A Cars) by the time

you enter this area once again.  Don't act like a drunk driver in this

track because the competition's much more powerful than the Gran Turismo

Cup.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 5



Although you can leave the settings alone, I recommend that you set the

brakes on both side to Level 15.  You may have to increase the Downforce

and stiffen up the Suspension if you think a stiff ride is what you may

need.  Otherwise, the brake adjustment should be enough to keep you

competitive.



Turn 1

------

Although you can take this turn in full speed, you need to start your

slowing down as early as this turn so you can take Turn 2 without having

to hit the wall, which wears out your tires.  It's important that you

slow down as early as Turn 1 so you will not be hitting the tunnel wall

or slanting the car at an unnecessary position during Turn 2.



Turn 2

------

Since I'm riding on the Subaru Impreza Rally Edition, I would say that

115 mph would be a safe speed.  Rapid tap the gas pedal so you don't

wind up scrapping the right wall.  You might have to apply some braking

if appropriate.



Turn 3

------

Take the turn from the out-and-in.  Controlled braking should keep your

car under control and prepared for Turn 4.  As long as you skid, you

should not be hitting the wall.  If you are inside by the time Turn 3

starts, then I don't have an idea on how you will be able to cope with

the turn.



Turn 4

------

Slow ahead of time by braking hard as the turn begins, skid as much

as you can, but don't skid too much here because Turn 5 is coming up,

and you want to take this turn as smooth as you can.  I would say the

ideal speed here would be ~70 mph with some skidding, but that would

throw you at the inside by the time you reach Turn 5, so you have to

adjust your tactic on this crappy turn depending on your own personal

experience.



Turn 5

------

Providing that you have taken Turn 4 smoothly, this turn can be taken

with some acceleration.  If you taken Turn 4 horribly, then I don't

have a friggin' clue on how you'll be able to take this turn.



Turns 6&7

---------

This ess can be taken at full speed providing that you are turning

ahead of time and providing that you are taking the turn from the

out-and-in.  Please try to keep a smooth racing line here because

this turns out to be one of the areas where beginners lose control.

You need to be careful not to hit the railing by the time you complete

Turn 7 because if you do, then you'll be sorry.



Turns 8&9

---------

The following two turns can be taken with some controlled skidding.

You should try to brake hard ahead of time at Turn 8 so that you don't

hit the left wall.  Make sure that your car is in good shape so that

you can skid Turn 9 without any problems.  Taking the turns out-and-in

style is OK as long as you don't start the turn too early, which may

cause a spin-out.



Turn 10

-------

Killer Hairpin.  Brake *HARD* so you can take this hairpin without

hitting the wall.  Don't undertake this hairpin too early or that

mistake would mean your last.  Don't skid as you may risk hitting the

wall at the right.  I would say that 40 mph without skidding would be

safe.  Don't use full acceleration until after you pass the hairpin.



Turn 11

-------

You may wish to accelerate in this turn, but IMHO you need to be

skidding here so you don't have to hit the wall at the left side of

the track, so be prepared to drift as you accelerate back to your

usual speed.  By the time you are about to reach Turn 12, you should

have the car straightened so you can drift once again without any

trouble.



Turn 12

-------

Take this turn from the out-and-in, and drift with zest so you don't

hit the wall at the left or lose any much needed control.  It's

important that you have the car straightened up by the time you meet

up with the worst area in the track--THE FINAL STRETCH!!!!



Turns 13-15

-----------

Worst part of the track.  You need to slow down as early as the

painted crosswalk so you can set up for Turn 15, which is a rather

nasty right.  Try not to go any faster than 60 mph on the first two

turns, and when you are about to take Turn 15, you need to be drifting

with zest and not accelerating until you have the car straightened up

but I find this part to be pretty nasty because your timing may be poor

by the time you enter this area.  This part really demands good timing

and practice in order to avoid hitting the walls during the triangle.



Turn 16

-------

Pretty long Medium Right.  You may need to do some skidding, or you

may not go any faster than 85 mph because this seems to be sharper than

I thought.  You can skid, as long as you don't go too fast.  Don't try

to accelerate until after the turn and after you have the car back to

stance.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

DEEP FOREST



Hopefully, you've set up your brakes to Level 15 because there's bound

to be some weird corridors that you may have to brake on.  You may also

want to set up your downforce, ride height, and suspension in order to

settle down for a smooth ride, but make sure that you are setting up

your Suspension and Downforce so you can commit good handling on this

track as well because you will be facing plenty of tight turns backed

up by some grass!



Turn 1

------

Sharp hairpins aren't my idea of a first turn.  Cut your speed

during the two hairpin signs and if you don't want to skid, don't go any

faster than 60 mph, but if you want to skid, then you may want to say

about 70 mph, although my experimentation is rather limited.



Turns 2&3

---------

Keep you car under control, and definitely stay off the grass at the

left and right side of the screen because that's when your worries

begin.  Turn 3 is more sarcastic than Turn 2, so you may have to slow

down at either Turn 2 or 3 to keep your car under control.  However,

you will have to worry about Turn 4 because Turn 4 is a rather *sharp*

left that you have to chew on, and you got a killer tunnel coming up

just before Turn 5.



Turn 4

------

Cut your speed *immediately* after you exit Turn 3, but don't slant

the wheels to the left because you'll hit the wall and touch the grass

so make sure that you're slanting the front wheels to the right as you

prepare for this turn.  You need to be going no faster than 65 mph and

you should try to drift as much as you can in order to avoid any grass

contact and possibly a hit right at the tunnel entrance wall, which

causes serious delays.



Turn 5

------

You should be ready to drift from this corner as soon as you are about

to exit the tunnel.  Cut your speed *as you leave the tunnel* and drift

on this turn.  I would say that 72 mph would be reasonable but you can

take this turn at higher speeds, although I don't recommend taking this

turn too hot.



Turn 6 & 7

----------

You will have yet another sharp to deal with so don't go overconfident

with the easy right.  Try to slow down as early as just before the

easy right so you'll have control by the time you hit the sharp left.

You shouldn't be going any faster than roughly 50 mph by the time you

hit Turn 7.  Be careful that you don't go inside the grass.  By the

time you enter the interlude before Turn 8, you should have the car

straightened up.



Turn 8

------

Although this turn can be taken at full speed, I strongly recommend

that you take this turn with some *controlled* braking and steering,

just a precaution that you don't hit the wall at the right.  If you

done the drifting and braking right, then you should be able to avoid

the wall at the right.



Turns 9-11

----------

This part of the track is as close as a straightaway you'll find in

this track, so use this part of the track wisely.  Make sure that you

are turning *slightly* during the easy turns, making sure that you are

not hitting the walls.  Turn 11 is where you should be doing the worry

abouties because you're going to face a fierce left right after the

easy right, so be sure that you're slowing down as you are about to

finish the easy right but not too early that you're losing control of

the car.



Turn 12

-------

If you have done a *controlled* slowing down as early as the conclusion

of Turn 11, then you should begin to do even more braking.  You should

be drifting a little as you undertake this turn.  I would say that 80

mph would be a good speed, but you need to be drifting so you can avoid

the grass at the right.  Please don't accelerate until you finish taking

on this turn.  If you slow down too late, then you're bound to hit walls

and mow some grass!



Turn 13

-------

Take this turn at full speed, trying to avoid the grass.  By the time

you finish this turn, you don't have to worry about the grass at the

left and right side of the track anymore.  JOY!



Turn 14

-------

Cut your speed to ~120 mph and I would take this turn by out-and-in, and

with heavy skidding.  When you get inside of the straightaway, you need

to have the car straightened.  Gotta be careful when drifting because

poor timing of taking this final turn will result in either unnecessary

dipping or grass contact, which ruins your performance greatly.  I'm

trying to make sure that you're staying competitive here.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11



If there's a track that will push me to use the Mitsubishi FTO Limited

Edition for the Gran Turismo World Cup, then it would be this course.

It's array of blind turns, tight curves, and bizarre corridors makes

this track reserved for All Wheel Drive cars only.



Turn 1

------

This turn can be taken at full speed.  Just don't get so greedy in the

turn that you forget turning in the second turn.



Turn 2

------

Slow down from the outside.  Then as the turn begins, slide throughout

most of the turn (although you may have to hit the wall, it takes

practice to avoid the wall in this course since Special Stage Route 11

is laden with sharps).  Don't be starting the turn too early as you

may hit the right wall.  Be sure that you drift here so that you can

maintain your speed.



Turns 3 and 4

-------------

It may be *necessary* (but shouldn't be that bad) to slow down, but

don't do too much slowing down as you may risk spinning the rear

wheels blatantly.  Do a slide and you'll be risking hitting a wall

at the left or hitting the gas canisters just before Turns 5 and 6.

The key to undertaking this turn would be to take this turn with the

smoothest possible line without slowing down too much and without

any blatant skidding.  Try not to do too much slowing down since

you're inside an AWD Vehicle.



Turns 5 and 6

-------------

Try to skid both turns, and make sure that you are not going too fast

on these turns, since you are in risk of spinning out the rear tires.

Have the car straightened as you complete a sharp.  Watch out for the

slant just before Turn 6 starts.  Skid through Turn 6, and then get

ready for Turn 7, which is a hairpin.



Turn 7

------

Try to slow down just as the turn starts so you can skid through this

killer hairpin.  Slide throughout the turn and don't accelerate until

you're confident that you won't spin out and that you will not hit the

wall at the left.  You can hug the left wall as you take on this turn

for increased speed, but that takes too much timing, and it's rather

dangerous since you're wearing your left tires.



Turns 8 and 9

-------------

Turn 8 can be taken at full speed.  Turn 9 is a sharp left that you will

have to slow down just before the turn starts so that you can drift

throughout most of the turn.  Be sure that you are not drifting this

turn too hot as this will result in a spinout.  You can hug the right

wall in order to take this turn with increased speed, but that's rather

dangerous since you risk wearing out the right tires trying to cheat.



Turns 10-13

-----------

Now here's a reason why I want you to use the Mitsubishi FTO here.
You may want to cut your speed to around 80 mph so you don't end up
hitting the wall.  Don't get into a bad skid here as you will need
every inch of control in order to make through this corridor without
hitting the wall.  Keep a smooth racing line right here.



Turns 14 and 15

---------------

These turns can be taken at full speed, but you need to use Turn 15

and the *slight* straightaway in order to prepare for Turns 16 and 17,

which comes in *just about* immediately, so you will need the car

straightened up in preparation for speed reduction for the next chicane.



Turns 16 and 17

---------------

If you used the brake while on a lousy position (from Turns 14 and 15),

then you're in for a spinout.  Keep the car running straight, release

the gas pedal, and at around 40-50 mph, I would take on the first half

of the chicane from the out and in but I have to immediately swerve my

car to the left because I'm in for the next chicane.  By the time I

turn at Turn 18, I should *be able* to have the car straightened up and

ready to drift at the next medium or sharp left.



Turn 18

-------

A good feel of the gas and pedal is required here.  The key to passing

this turn is to keep a smooth racing line with a good feel of the gas

pedal without any blatant slowing down or any unnecessary drifting here.

Apex cutting is acceptable, as long as you are not sloppy taking it.



Turn 19

-------

There's some easy slants just before this painful hairpin.  You may

wish to do the "Cheating Bastard" maneuver by leaning at the outside of

the track and then with zest timing lean to the right *just right* and

pedal to the metal.  You must time your wheel yanks correctly in order

to cheat on this hairpin.  However, you risk having to wear out your

tires and may face a possible spinout by all means, so an alternative

to the Cheating Bastard maneuver (BTW it's Jaz Rignall of PSM Online

who came up with the idea of the Cheating Bastard), brake as the left

slant concludes *hard*, and yank the car to the right.  Be sure that

you have the car counterbanked and straightened by the time you start

Turns 20 and 21.



Turns 20 and 21

---------------

I would treat these two sharps as one turn.  Time your drift so that

you just *hit* the right wall and that you can have room to straighten

up your car by the time Turn 22 (hairpin) begins.  A bad drift or a

sloppy undertake would result in the competition catching up with you.



Turn 22

-------

Here, the Cheating Bastard maneuver works here, but it's easier to do

the Cheating Bastard maneuver in this hairpin than in Turn 19 because

you don't have to contend with some slants before the hairpin.  This

applies to the first hairpin just before the tunnel.  As the right

hairpin starts, go way outside, and with zest timing, turn right just

right, and pedal to the metal.  Becoming a cheating bastard takes time

because you need the right timing in order to take on the hairpin at

dangerous speeds (Once again, Jaz Rignall of http://www.psmonline.com)

but it's easier to do with the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition since

All Wheel Drive improves your timing a *little* bit.



Turns 23 and 24

---------------

You need to slow down to under 45 mph when you see sections of Turn 23

in order to avoid sloppy screwups.  Brake from the left side of the

track and as you see sections of Turn 23, brake *hard* and as Turn 23

begins, keep a smooth racing line.  A good feel of the gas, brakes, and

the steering wheel is required.



Turn 25

-------

Keep your speed to around 100 mph at this final turn.  Speed out from

the turn if you are going to get closer to the left wall.  A good feel

of the gas and the pedal is required here.



========================================================================

SUPERTUNED SPORTS CAR CHAMPIONSHIPS

Number of Tracks: 5

Laps per Track: 5

Required Class License: IA-Class

Restriction of Car Type: No "Castrolized" cars allowed.  You cannot

bring any special cars (i.e. Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition) or anything

that has underwent Castrolization at a Racing Shop.  You can heavily

chachinate your cars with the exception of the Racing crap, and that

sucks because this is indeed a tough track because you're racing every

track in reverse (ACCIDENT TIME!), and you're contending with (oh-boy)

a Toyota Supra RZ, one of the most feared computer cars from the Front

Engine, Rear Drive Championships.  You'll need to follow my pet peeves

if you want to dominate this course.

Tracks involved: High Speed Ring Reverse, Grand Valley Speedway Reverse,

Clubman Stage Route 5 Reverse, Autumn Ring Reverse (Boy, Autumn Ring

Reverse will give you the creeps, it indeed gave me the creeps!), and

Special Stage Route 11 Reverse (even more harder than Special Stage

Route 11, the forward track!)

Pole Position Bonus: 10000 Credits

Finish First in the Track Bonus: 50000 Credits

Series Winner Bonus: 100000 Credits

Car you get for winning the race: You get a late model Nissan Skyline

for winning the race.  Skylines are precious, so make sure that you

try them out before you try to sell them.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Vestiroth's note: This is the toughest series in the game.  Since you

can't bring any big daddy racing cars (not to mention that you'll be

facing an overpsyched Toyota Supra RZ), this is something to worry

about.  Ask Jaz Rignall of PSM Online, Fukumoto Atsushi, Ben Cureton,

or anyone who burned this game to a crisp what car to use for this

series.  Everybody will say the following:



1.  Buy a 1989 Nissan Skyline GT-R and save this car on your Memory

    Card.  Earn more money at the Commercial Car Championships (using

    a completely stock Viper GTS) or you can take it easy participating

    at the Japanese and American Car Championships (with the FTO LM).



2.  Go to the Nissan Nismo and purchase any maximum-strength performance

    enhancers.  If the item says "Purchased", then you'll have to do a

    machine test before you can change the parts.  Overpsyche this car

    so it can go just about 900 HP, but don't undergo a racing

    modification this time around.



3.  After overpsyching this un-Castrolized car, save this car on your

    memory card.



4.  Be sure that you polish up your skills with this overpsyched Nissan

    via a Spot Race before you get inside this series.  Trust me, you'll

    have to get used to its controls because all courses are reverse,

    and the computer drones are out for blood!



5.  I'm gonna be assuming that you are going to be using an overpsyched

    1989 Nissan Skyline GT-R for this series.



6.  Fiddle up with your settings so that you can have the strongest

    possible brakes, and making sure that your suspension is up to par

    with the competition.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

HIGH SPEED RING REVERSE



I don't know what to say for this one because this is *one* bizarre

course.  You will have to beware of the many *parallel* corners that

this track has to offer.  Basically, you will be going around this ring

in reverse, meaning that some strategies have to be adjusted in order

to block off the competition in this track.  Also, since you are racing

in Reverse for all of the series, you may have to brake as early as you

can to allow some room for error.



Turn 1

------

I found this turn to be the deadliest turn of this track.  If you are

going too fast, that means that you have to slow down ahead of time

*blatantly* in order to avoid contact with the wall, but don't slow

down too early as you will be touching the grass.  I found out that

with some skidding, you should be taking this turn A-OK, but you may

want to take on this turn *according* to your experience.



Turn 2

------

Try to use this turn as a preparation to take on Turns 3 and 4.  Stay

on the inside while taking on this turn, making sure you *barely* miss

the grass at the left side of the screen.  By the time you start Turn

3, you should be at a good position to reduce room for error.



Turns 3 and 4

-------------

As with High Speed Ring, you should be going no faster than ~80 mph

(but you will need to adjust your speed based upon your experience).

Brake ahead of time, cut both turns using out-and-in, and make sure

that you are doing rapid gas tapping often here so you don't end up

hitting the grass or wall.  A good feel of the gas pedal is required.



Turn 5

------

Cut your speed to about 100 mph just before the turn starts.  Don't

cut your speed too early as you'll screw up BAD.  As soon as the

turn starts, you should begin sliding (or taking it in a smooth line

if you don't want to risk losing speed) and as soon as the turn

concludes, straighten up the car.



Turn 6

------

As opposed to turn 1 on the forward track, this turn can be taken at

full speed providing that you have been able to take this turn ahead

of time, and that you don't end up hitting the wall or grass in any

fashion.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

GRAND VALLEY SPEEDWAY REVERSE



You will be facing lots of weird and unfamiliar turns in Grand Valley

Speedway Reverse and you will be facing an array of bizarre passages

that may cause blatant tire melting, and you do need to be a careful

driver (or in my case, holding an A-Class License for the least) in

order to get away from this track without too much damage.



Turns 1 and 2

-------------

The key to taking these two turns is to control your speed without any

blatant slowdown or wheelspin.  A reasonable speed here would be 100

mph (my experimentation here is rather limited, so bear with me) with

some skidding, and after Turn 2 ends, you can go full speed for now

but you'll have to be aware that Turns 3 and 4 will be coming up.



Turns 3 and 4

-------------

No matter what kind of Gran Turismo Player you consider yourself, this

is something to worry about in Grand Valley Speedway.  Cut your speed

to ~50 mph *as* you enter the first turn.  Drift throughout the first

turn using out-and-in.  You should not be going over ~45 mph on average

during the first turn, although I'm saying ~50 mph (you lose speed as

you slide).  On Turn 14, cut your speed to around ~48 mph, take the turn

from the out-and-in, and refrain from accelerating until after you

complete this turn.  You should be at around ~40 mph by the time exit

the chicane.  You need to be concerned with Turn 3 because that's when

you tend to enter a sharp at high speeds.



Turn 5

------

You shouldn't have to worry about slowing down too blatantly since you

just recovered from the two hairpins.  Please do some *controlled* rapid

gas tapping as the turn keeps "going and going" and refrain from

accelerating until the turn ends.  Failure to do this will result in

rail contact at the left, which may overspin your rear tires.  You

should be lined up at the middle throughout the turn BTW.



Turn 6

------

At Turn 16, brake to about 90 mph, and start skidding as the turn begins

so that you don't hit any uneven passages that may cause blatant spinning

of the rear tires and a possible spinout.  The key to taking this turn

would be to slide throughout this turn without any contact with the wall

or with the least amount of errors.



Turn 7

------

Slide throughout nearly all of this lamer, making sure that you are not

going any faster than 70 mph.  You should make sure that you are turning

ahead of time, cutting the apex, leaning the wheels near the slant, and

making sure that you are not accelerating until after the turn.



Turn 8

------

Turn 8 is where beginners tend to bite the dust.  Cut your speed to

*below* 50 mph just before the Tunnel terminates.  When the turn

begins, you should try to cut the apex as much as you can, but don't

hit the wall at the right or you may overspin the rear tires.

Sliding's acceptable as long as you don't overdo it.



Turn 9

------

The key to taking this turn would be to cut the apex without using

the brakes too much and with a good feel of the gas pedal.  Stay

inside of the track for as much as you can, making sure that your

wheels are touching the slant, *barely* missing the grass.



Turn 10

-------

I would slide this lamer and start sliding from the outside of the

turn and work my way to the inside, making sure that my wheels are

*next* to the slant, but not touching it.  I should be staying near

the rightmost side of the track for enhanced degree of control because

I will need every drop of control by the time I enter Turn 11, which is

a deadly hairpin.



Turn 11

-------

Ancient words of wisdom:  Slow down ahead of time for control.  By the

start of the hairpin, your speed shouldn't be exceeding 42 mph.  Take

the hairpin from the outside and slowly move to the inside, but don't

touch the slant as you'll take an unwanted dip right there.  By the

time you take on the rather easy ess-curve, you should have regained

control of the car.  Since you have a long straight, you should try to

brake to 42 mph on this hairpin before all is lost (meaning that you

braked too late).



Turns 12-14

-----------

Although this Ess can be taken at full speed, be aware that you'll

need to probably be sliding on Turns 13 and 14 in order to avoid any

unwanted dipping and contact with the racing slant at the left or

right side of the track.  If you did not turn ahead of time at Turns

13 and 14, then you're bound to touch some grass, and eventually wind

up spinning out of control.  The key in this ess would be to treat

your car with lots of respect by easing out on every turn and by

turning ahead of time to avoid any sliding, which throws you off

control anyway.



Turns 15 and 16

---------------

Cut your speed to around 60 mph as the hairpin begins.  Be sure you give

room to brake because late braking may result in a spinout.  Cut the

apex from the outside.  By the time you take Turn 16 in, then you should

have regained control of the car.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

CLUBMAN STAGE ROUTE 5 REVERSE



Clubman Stage Route 5 Reverse shouldn't be that tough provided that you
know how to properly race in Gran Turismo already.  The only concern that

you should be focusing on is Turn 1, which is indeed *weird*.  Here are

some techniques you'll need in order to nail the competition as stated

below, and keep in mind that you need to watch out for Turn 1 because

this turn may cause blatant tire melt if you don't react the earlier

the better.



Turn 1

------

The greatest concern in the track.  Go to the left side of the track and

when you see some sections of this turn, move *gently* to the inside of

this turn and provided that you're not going to be hitting the bizarre

wall at the start of the turn (which may overspin the wheels and cause

a spin-off), skid.



Turn 2

------

Take this turn out-and-in.  Skid throughout this turn making sure that

you turn as early as you possibly can to avoid hitting the walls.  The

key to taking this turn efficiently is to drift without any early-bird

attempts or any blatant loss in speed.  Keeping a smooth racing line

will result in an increased ratio of speed during this turn.



Turns 3 and 4

-------------

This Ess can be taken at full speed.  Make sure that you yank the car

just before the turn starts because these turns are rather blind for

beginners.



Turn 5

------

Take this turn from the out-and-in, preparing yourself for Turn 6.

Don't slow down too much because this may result in a blatant skid,

something you don't want to do until you reach Turn 6.



Turn 6

------

You can scrape the left wall by turning the car to the right just right

and hug the wall while stepping on the gas but that's risky because you

will burn up the tires and possibly spin the rear wheels.  I would just

skid on this turn (although I may have to hit the wall).  You may have

to adjust your speed depending on your skill.  I would say that 60 mph

is safe to start.



Turn 7

------

Turn gently on this turn, making sure that you are going from the out

and in so you will prepare yourself for the final two turns.  By the

time you start Turn 8, you should be lined up at the left side of the

track.



Turn 8

------

The key to undertaking this turn is to cut the apex as much as possible

without any blatant sliding or slowing down.  Under 100 mph and over 90

mph would be reasonable.  A good feel of the gas and wheel is required

in order to avoid any wall contact.



Turn 9

------

This final turn can be taken at full speed.  If you skid, then just

make sure that you have the car straightened up before you cross the

finish line, as you will need every drop of speed to blast the enemies

into smithereens in this track.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

AUTUMN RING REVERSE



I hate this track simply because this track tests your ability to be a

diagnostic driver rather than on speed.  You do have to learn how to

avoid touching the grass as much as you can because there are sharp

chicanes that will throw you off course IN AN INSTANT.  It's important

that you don't go full throttle while taking on any turn, not just the

hairpins.



Turns 1 and 2

-------------

Don't go full speed and full throttle ahead on this ess or you may be

hitting the grass or the wall.  If you are at a blatantly high speed,

you need to brake to 130 mph at the Finish Line (with the foot off the

pedal) and take the turn from the outside and into the inside.  This

turn has the ability to dizzy you from the next turn, so be sure that

your car is straight so you can brake to slow down on the next turn.



Turns 3

-------

The best way to take on this turn is to brake just before the turn at

a straight line (getting the foot off the gas), and then begin sliding

from the out-and-in but it's really hard to cut the apex here because

your bound to start the turn inside, which really hurts.



Turn 4 through 6

----------------

You should be lined up at the outside of the track just before this

turn starts.  Brake at a straight line, and cut the apex at Turn 4.

Don't let your guard down right after this turn because you have to

deal with the chicane coming up.  Try to keep a straight line as much

as you can during the chicane to optimize your speed, but it's kind

of hard to do because the chicane happens so suddenly.



Turn 7

------

You shouldn't be taking this turn at speeds faster than 65 mph.  Again,

brake at a straight line, and then slide this lame 235er.  You may have

to speed out if you are bound to hit the grass at the left.  You should

have the car straightened up just before the Mazda Speed Tunnel.



Turn 8

------

Slow down to a reasonable speed so that you can slide this turn out and

in style without any blatant loss of speed.  Brake at a straight line

and at the middle of the turn, try to bank the car rightwards so you can

slide through.  You need a good feel of the gas in order to make it out

of this turn without any grass contact.



Turn 9

------

This hairpin can be taken at speeds of up to 70 mph.  Brake at a straight

line from the outside, and cut the apex, making sure that you don't abuse

the gas during the turn.  Line up the car at the right side of the track

before Turn 10.



Turn 10

-------

Approach this turn from the right side of the track and just before the

grade rise end, remove your foot from the gas and almost immediately

brake simultaneously.  The safe speed here is 45 mph with some Apex

Cutting, but I found this turn to be deadly because it's as sharp as

a lady's fingernail.



Turn 11

-------

This is much like the early stretch of the Autumnring Reverse but it's

a lot much crappier because you now have twin chicanes coming up right

after this sharp.  Again, point your car at the right side and brake

the car at a straight line.  Cut the apex and try to straighten up the

car before the chicanes come up.



Turns 12 through 15

-------------------

The ideal speed for these twin chicanes is around 70 mph.  Any contact

with the grass or the slants may make your car unstable so keep that

in mind.  Try to keep a smooth and straight racing line for as much as

you can to maintain your present control.  Cut the apex of the chicanes

if you can but a medium right follows the second chicane so instantly

so you may feel dizzy after this one.



Turn 16

-------

You may feel dizzy right after the chicanes.  Try to stay low in this

turn as much as you can even though you risk having to cut your speed

too blatantly, but if you are good enough, you should be able to cut

the apex of this turn without touching the grass at the left.  Try to

stay at the right side of the track as the turn concludes because a

tight hairpin follows up afterwards.



Turn 17

-------

Approach this hairpin by getting the foot off the gas and almost

immediately brake simultaneously to under 50 mph.  Use the out-and-in

routine to take care of this hairpin and speed out by all means if it

is necessary for you (only if you suspect that you will be hitting the

grass at the right).  Now you should have the car running straight so

that you can milk up some speed.  Be prepared to slow down as you cross

the Next Lap/Finish Line so that you can take on the first Ess without

drama.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11 REVERSE



This is the hardest track in the game.  Enough babbling and crying

already. :P



Turn 1

------

Approach this corner at a straight line and brake while having the foot

off the gas.  Try to take this turn pointing yourself at the middle or

at the inside of the turn so that you can allow yourself room for error

when the chicane is coming up.  This turn is sure to make you dizzy for

good because your taking on this turn at an insane speed.



Turns 2 and 3

-------------

You shouldn't be taking this turn full speed and your chances of passing

this chicane will increase if you cut your speed during the final stretch

of Turn 1.  The left side of the track is the ideal area to start the

turn.  Try to cut the apex as much as you can here.  It's hard to time

this chicane since the turn happens just a little after the first curve

ends.



Turn 4

------

Approach this turn and brake at a straight line.  Cut the apex of the

turn and return to the outside of the track, making sure that you are

ready to use out-and-in once again for the next two turns after this

hairpin.  You should be going no faster than 45 mph here.



Turns 5 and 6

-------------

Try to slide on both of these turns, but try to stay outside of the

first half.  Afterwards, provided that you have stayed outside of Turn

5, you can cut the apex of Turn 6.  Try to treat these two as one turn

to optimize performance.  Going too fast will result in barrier contact

which may wear out the tires.



Turn 7

------

A left bend will dizzy you real good just before the hairpin.  You need

to be going no faster than 45 mph here and doing out-and-in if you want

to avoid hitting the walls at the right.  You should position yourself

at the left side of the track right after the hairpin.



Turn 8

------

Move to the Left side of the track, slow down, cut the right side of the

track, and move back to the left side of the track just before the next

chicane starts.  You shouldn't be accelerating even though you are urged

to do so.



Turns 9 and 10

--------------

You may feel a little dizzy after Turn 8 so be prepared to slow down

just before the Chicane Starts.  You should try to keep a smooth racing

line and possibly cut both turns in order to avoid any unnecessary

slowing down.  This chicane is IMHO harder than the first since the sharp

turns are farther apart.



Turns 11 and 12

---------------

These easy bends should be no problem, but don't be going full speed

ahead as you will have to face the harsh corridor sooner or later and

if you want to pass this area without any frontal contact with any of

the barricades, then it's important that you brake in a straight line

to cut your speed in preparation for the rough chicanes.



Turns 13 through 16

-------------------

Unless you were able to cut your speed from the previous point at the

above paragraph, you'll be finding yourself hitting the barriers all of

a sudden.  While going through these chicanes, it's crucial that you

don't get into a blatant slide that may cause you to go off-balance

during this crappy area.  Keep the car running straight and don't go

any faster than 80 mph for the best results.



Turn 17

-------

This turn can be taken from the left, to the right during the turn, and

back into the left (although you should try to position yourself to the

right, but that's Turn 18) by braking at a straight line, and sliding

throughout this turn.  Have the car straightened up so that you can

allow some drama at Turn 18.



Turn 18

-------

Move from the left side of the track and into the right side of the

track.  After the turn, you should position yourself to the right side

of the track to prepare yourself to take on the hairpin which is coming

up.



Turn 19

-------

You need to be braking at a straight line and possibly use out and in

at no faster than 55 mph in order to avoid any collision with any walls,

even though you're bound to hit the barriers your first couple of times.

You can slide through this hairpin but it's too dangerous because that's

when you risk spinning-out.



Turn 20

-------

At the straightaway, position yourself to the left side of the track.

Brake ahead of time so that you can allow some room for error.  Clip the

apex of the turn.  Try to go as slow as you can because Turn 21 follows

up right after this turn.  If you want to take on Turn 21 without drama,

then you should try to stay either centered after the turn or stay at the

right side of the track to avoid any problems.



Turn 21

-------

Clip the apex of this turn by slowing down and sliding this lamer.  Be

careful not to hit the barrier at the left when you are cutting the apex.

You can still make it throughout this turn even from the left side of the

track, but it's pretty ludicrous since you hit the wall at the right.

The key to undertaking this turn is to move to the right as much as you

can and clip the apex before all is lost.



Turns 22 and 23

---------------

This is a blind chicane.  Try to slow down just right so that you can

clip the apex of this chicane without any contact with the barriers.  I

find this too difficult because I can't see what's gonna happen next due

to the slight upgrade and the height of the barriers.  The second part

of the chicane is a lot sharper, so stay on your toes.



Turn 24

-------

Move to the right side of the track before this turn.  Brake with the

wheels parrallel and slide this final lamer by clipping the apex.  You

should be at the right side of the track when the turn ends.



Turn 25

-------

You should now be able to complete the track without any further problems.

Stay as low as you can in this turn for some much needed speed.



========================================================================

GRAND VALLEY SPEEDWAY ENDURANCE CHAMPIONSHIP

Number of Tracks: 1

Laps per Track: 60

Required Class License: IA-Class

Restriction of Car Type: No restriction on Car type

Tracks involved: Grand Valley Speedway Only, this is an endurance race

Pole Position Bonus: 20000 Credits

Finish First in the Track Bonus: 300000 Credits

Car you get for winning the race: YEEESSSSS!!!!!!!!  A Toyota Castrol

Supra GT for winning the race!!!!!!  If you have not yet purchased the

Toyota Castrol Supra GT yet, then if you win the race preferrably using

the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition, then this could be your lucky day.

------------------------------------------------------------------------


A close to 2-hour, 60-lap, 300-mile race on the most beautiful track on
Gran Turismo, enough to wear out your PlayStation to Smithereens!  In order

to avoid running the PlayStation for more than 2 hours (and to avoid any

spamming or mail-bombing into my mailbox), here's what you have to do:



1.  You *should* have a Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo overpsyched and

    *CASTROLIZED* in preparation to enter the Japanese and American Car

    Championship.  You should have tested your ability to pilot a GTO

    Twin Turbo long ago during the High Speed Championships.



2.  Blast the competition to a crisp by throwing the Mitsubishi GTO

    Twin Turbo at the Japanese and American Car Championships to win the

    Mitsubishi FTO Limited Editon.  Save the FTO LM on the memory card

    and get in the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition and win the Japanese

    and American Car Championships once again to get the Dodge Viper

    GTS-R.  Save the Viper on your Memory Card and board onto the

    Japanese and British Car Championships.



3.  Using the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition, burn the competition away

    winning the Japanese and British Car Championships two consecutive

    times, keeping the TVR Cerbera Limited Edition and dumping the lame

    Honda Civic Del Sol Limited Edition.  Save the TVR Cerbera Limited

    Edition on the Memory Card, get inside the TVR, and get ready to

    blow the competition to a crisp again on the American and British

    Car championships.



4.  On the British-American Sports Car championships, neither the Mazda
    RX-7 A-Spec LM nor the Concept Car are worth having--While Adrian
    Pepper concluded that the Concept Car is the best car in the game,
    IMO NEITHER these cars are worth having due to stability issues
    and/or speed problems I have by default.



5.  Once you are finished resting the PSX for at least 2-3 hours,
    you can play Gran Turismo once again.  Using the Mitsubishi FTO
    LM, you should have no problem with this racetrack.


6.  I'm gonna use the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition for this course.

    I know it's repetitive, but since this is an endurance race, it's

    necessary for me to adjust some tactics a little so that you don't

    overskid which wears out tires.



7.  I recommend that you pit every 12-15 laps for fresh new rubber.

    As of this writing, the information here may or may not be too

    accurate, so you may have to help me out on this.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

GRAND VALLEY SPEEDWAY



You should be familiar with this track back in the Gran Turismo World

Cup to get a feel on how to pilot a Mitsubishi FTO here.



Turn 1

------

Being dizzy right after starting will make you uncomfortable on the

second turn, which is a hairpin.  You'll want to cut your speed as soon

as you finish up taking on the gentle left so that you'll have your

speed *reasonably* reduced by the time you take on the first hairpin

turn in the track.



Turn 2

------

If you were able to cut your speed (I recommend releasing the gas pedal

and by the time you hit the *slight* straight brake to ~60 mph and do

some sliding) as you were taking on the first turn in preparation of

this hairpin, then great.  If not, then be prepared to either touch

the dirt or deal with a spinout!  It's important that you cut your

speed (if you're going over 120 mph at the start of Turn 1) as early

as Turn 1, and start reacting by the time you reach Turn 2 so you can

allow some room for error by the time you reach the next straight, a

gateway to a rather gruesome S-curve coming up.



Turns 3-5

---------

Although this Ess can be taken at full speed, be aware that you'll

need to probably be sliding on Turn 5 in order to avoid any unwanted

dipping and contact with the racing slant at the left or right side

of the track.  If you did not turn ahead of time at Turn 5, then

you're bound to touch some grass, and eventually wind up spinning out

of control.  You'll need to be in good shape when you take on Turn 6,

a very naughty hairpin.



Turn 6

------

Ancient words of wisdom:  Slow down ahead of time for control.  By the

start of the hairpin, your speed shouldn't be exceeding 42 mph.  Take

the hairpin from the outside and slowly move to the inside, but don't

touch the slant as you'll take an unwanted dip right there.  Don't let

the next straight fool you as you'll have to take on a rather *sharp*

left.



Turn 7

------

I would slide this lamer and start sliding from the outside of the

turn and work my way to the inside, making sure that my wheels are

*next* to the slant, but not touching it.  I should be staying near

the leftmost side of the track when I finish this turn because Turn

8 is coming up.



Turn 8

------

As with Turn 7, I would slide and take this turn from the outside and

work my way to the inside, making sure that my wheels are near the

slant (but not touching it), and continue to stay near the rightmost

side of the track because Turn 9 is coming up, and believe me, Turn 9

is a sharp left (a carryover from the Sunday Cup and all other B-Class

Races).  Turn 8 is indeed a lot deadlier than Turn 7 so you may have

to go slower on this turn as opposed to Turn 7.



Turn 9

------

Deadly Sharp Left.  Before you enter this turn, make sure that you're

not going any faster than ~50 mph.  Start the turn from the outside,

work your way inside.  If you performed this turn correctly, then you

should *barely* miss the wall.  If you took this turn lousy, then be

prepared to hit the wall or spin out.  Try not to slide here because

that's where beginners tend to overspeed and overslide, causing major

spinouts and problems that may show your vulnerability towards your

opponents.



Turn 10

-------

As deadly as this painfully sharp left may seem, it seems to be a *bad*

hairpin in disguise (but shouldn't be that bad).  Try to slow down as

early as you can so you don't have to overslide and spin out on this

turn.  I would say that ~60 mph would be safe (safe enough to avoid the

grass at the right), though my experimentation's been limited.  If you

are going too fast or skidding too sloppy, then a nice Tunnel Wall is

waiting for you at the start of Turn 11.



Turn 11

-------

If you have taken Turn 10 neatly, great.  At Turn 11, don't go any

slower than 90 mph.  I would slide throughout the turn and possibly

use a *little* rapid gas tapping so that I don't accelerate until

after the turn finishes and the straightaway begins.  Use the straight

before Turn 12 efficiently because at Turn 12, you'll have to cut your

speed *just a little* before the straight terminates.



Turn 12

-------

Is your speed cut to ~110 by the time the turn started?  Well, do some

*controlled* rapid gas tapping as the turn keeps "going and going" and

refrain from accelerating until the turn ends.  Failure to do this will

result in rail contact at the left, which may damage your tires.



Turns 13 and 14

---------------

No matter what kind of Gran Turismo Player you consider yourself, this

is something to worry about in Grand Valley Speedway.  Cut your speed

to ~74 mph *as* you enter the first turn.  Drift throughout the first

turn using out-and-in.  You should not be going over ~60 mph on average

during the first turn, although I'm saying ~74 mph (you lose speed as

you slide).  On Turn 14, cut your speed to around ~50 mph, take the turn

from the out-and-in, and refrain from accelerating until after you

complete this turn.  You should be at around ~40 mph by the time your

at the final stretch (You tend to lose lots of speed here, so don't go

too fast as these turns are hairpins in nature).



Turn 15

-------

The key here is to take this turn without any unneccessary slowing down

or having to touch the grass on either side.  I would say that ~130 mph

with some sliding (assuming that you started turning as the turn starts)

would be safe enough to avoid the slant and grass at the left.  On the

second and third lap, you'll need to be careful when taking on Turns 1

and 2 because you may be at about 175 mph (on Class A Cars) by the time

you enter this area once again.



========================================================================

SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11 ENDURANCE CHAMPIONSHIP WITH RACING CARS

Number of Tracks: 1

Laps per Track: 30

Required Class License: IA-Class

Restriction of Car Type: Racing Cars permitted, no restriction on any

car you want to be in.

Tracks involved: Special Stage Route 11 only

Pole Position Bonus: 20000 Credits

Finish First in the Track Bonus: 150000 Credits

Car you get for winning the race: You get a Nissan Silvia Limited

Edition (Castrolized) for winning this race.  Try to experiment this

car before going on.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Vestiroth's note:  You should have familiarized yourself with this track

a long time ago, just before you got your IA License.  In order to make

sure that you don't make too many pit stops, here are the procedures:



1.  Get the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition by winning the Japanese and

    American Sports Car Championship.  Save this car on your Memory

    Card.



2.  Try to win all A-Class Championships (earning nothing but Gold)

    before getting your International A License.  Save all your progress

    on the Memory Card before going onto winning the International A

    License.



3.  Pass the International A License Tests (they're really hard, save
    the IA License on the Memory Card, and practice up with the FTO
    Limited Edition until you're comfy enough to take on this track.



4.  Pit the FTO against all other cars on this track.  Be sure that you

    take a Pit stop for every 10 laps.  I'm assuming that you are riding

    an FTO for this track.



5.  Fiddle up with the settings so that you are up-to-par with the

    competition.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11



Since you're in for a 30-lap race in the hardest track in Gran Turismo,

you may have to drive conservatively here in order to prevent blatant

tire wear.  Remember, the lighter the car, the longer the tire life.

Since this information was taken from my previous Gran Turismo FAQs,

the information here will be inaccurate.  Please correct me (via e-mail)

if you can.



Turn 1

------

This turn can be taken at full speed.  Just don't get so greedy in the

turn that you forget turning in the second turn.



Turn 2

------

Slow down from the outside.  Then as the turn begins, slide throughout

most of the turn (although you may have to hit the wall, it takes

practice to avoid the wall in this course since Special Stage Route 11

is laden with sharps).  Don't be starting the turn too early as you

may hit the right wall.  Be sure that you drift here so that you can

maintain your speed.



Turns 3 and 4

-------------

It may be *necessary* (but shouldn't be that bad) to slow down, but

don't do too much slowing down as you may risk spinning the rear

wheels blatantly.  Do a slide and you'll be risking hitting a wall

at the left or hitting the gas canisters just before Turns 5 and 6.

The key to undertaking this turn would be to take this turn with the

smoothest possible line without slowing down too much and without

any blatant skidding.  Try not to do too much slowing down since

you're inside an AWD Vehicle.



Turns 5 and 6

-------------

Try to skid both turns, and make sure that you are not going too fast

on these turns, since you are in risk of spinning out the rear tires.

Have the car straightened as you complete a sharp.  Watch out for the

slant just before Turn 6 starts.  Skid through Turn 6, and then get

ready for Turn 7, which is a hairpin.



Turn 7

------

Try to slow down just as the turn starts so you can skid through this

killer hairpin.  Slide throughout the turn and don't accelerate until

you're confident that you won't spin out and that you will not hit the

wall at the left.  You can hug the left wall as you take on this turn

for increased speed, but that takes too much timing, and it's rather

dangerous since you're wearing your left tires.



Turns 8 and 9

-------------

Turn 8 can be taken at full speed.  Turn 9 is a sharp left that you will

have to slow down just before the turn starts so that you can drift

throughout most of the turn.  Be sure that you are not drifting this

turn too hot as this will result in a spinout.  You can hug the right

wall in order to take this turn with increased speed, but that's rather

dangerous since you risk wearing out the right tires trying to cheat.



Turns 10-13

-----------

Very harsh corridor.  You may want to cut your speed to around 80

mph so you don't end up hitting the wall.  Don't get into a bad skid

here as you will need every inch of control in order to make through

this corridor without hitting the wall.  Keep a smooth racing line

right here.



Turns 14 and 15

---------------

These turns can be taken at full speed, but you need to use Turn 15

and the *slight* straightaway in order to prepare for Turns 16 and 17,

which comes in *just about* immediately, so you will need the car

straightened up in preparation for speed reduction for the next chicane.



Turns 16 and 17

---------------

If you used the brake while on a lousy position (from Turns 14 and 15),

then you're in for a spinout.  Keep the car running straight, release

the gas pedal, and at around 40-50 mph, I would take on the first half

of the chicane from the out and in but I have to immediately swerve my

car to the left because I'm in for the next chicane.  By the time I

turn at Turn 18, I should *be able* to have the car straightened up and

ready to drift at the next medium or sharp left.



Turn 18

-------

A good feel of the gas and pedal is required here.  The key to passing

this turn is to keep a smooth racing line with a good feel of the gas

pedal without any blatant slowing down or any unnecessary drifting here.

Apex cutting is acceptable, as long as you are not sloppy taking it.



Turn 19

-------

There's some easy slants just before this painful hairpin.  You may

wish to do the "Cheating Bastard" maneuver by leaning at the outside of

the track and then with zest timing lean to the right *just right* and

pedal to the metal.  You must time your wheel yanks correctly in order

to cheat on this hairpin.  However, you risk having to wear out your

tires and may face a possible spinout by all means, so an alternative

to the Cheating Bastard maneuver (BTW it's Jaz Rignall of PSM Online

who came up with the idea of the Cheating Bastard), brake as the left

slant concludes *hard*, and yank the car to the right.  Be sure that

you have the car counterbanked and straightened by the time you start

Turns 20 and 21.



Turns 20 and 21

---------------

I would treat these two sharps as one turn.  Time your drift so that

you just *hit* the right wall and that you can have room to straighten

up your car by the time Turn 22 (hairpin) begins.  A bad drift or a

sloppy undertake would result in the competition catching up with you.



Turn 22

-------

Here, the Cheating Bastard maneuver works here, but it's easier to do

the Cheating Bastard maneuver in this hairpin than in Turn 19 because

you don't have to contend with some slants before the hairpin.  This

applies to the first hairpin just before the tunnel.  As the right

hairpin starts, go way outside, and with zest timing, turn right just

right, and pedal to the metal.  Becoming a cheating bastard takes time

because you need the right timing in order to take on the hairpin at

dangerous speeds (Once again, Jaz Rignall of http://www.psmonline.com)

but it's easier to do with the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition since

All Wheel Drive improves your timing a *little* bit.



Turns 23 and 24

---------------

You need to slow down to under 45 mph when you see sections of Turn 23

in order to avoid sloppy screwups.  Brake from the left side of the

track and as you see sections of Turn 23, brake *hard* and as Turn 23

begins, keep a smooth racing line.  A good feel of the gas, brakes, and

the steering wheel is required.



Turn 25

-------

Keep your speed to around 100 mph at this final turn.  Speed out from

the turn if you are going to get closer to the left wall.  A good feel

of the gas and the pedal is required here.



========================================================================

SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11 ENDURANCE CHAMPIONSHIP WITHOUT RACING CARS

Number of Tracks: 1

Laps per Track: 30

Required Class License: IA-Class

Restriction of Car Type: No Racing Cars allowed.  You cannot be inside

a special (cheap) model or have the car "Castrolized" if you want to

enter this race, so have an overtweaked Nissan Skyline GT-R (without

the Castrol Crap) ready.

Tracks involved: Special Stage Route 11 Reverse

Pole Position Bonus: 20000 Credits

Finish First in the Track Bonus: 150000 Credits

Car you get for winning the race: An upgradeable Nissan Nismo GT-R

Limited Edition for winning the race.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Vestiroth's note: This is my least favorite endurance race in all of
Gran Turismo.  Period.  Here's what to do:



1.  Buy a Nissan Skyline, get everything you need to enter the Overly

    Tuned car championships, and win the series.  Save the victory on

    your Memory Card.



2.  Keep on practicing with your Skyline on this championship until

    you are comfy enough to take on this track, since you will be

    racing on reverse.



3.  I'm gonna be using a Nissan Skyline GT-R V-Spec for this course.

    Change the tactics if you are using different cars.



4.  Since you are not allowed to bring in racing cars for this track,

    make sure that you are not undergoing any cheap racing mod in

    prep for this series.



5.  You will need to fiddle up your settings a little for stability

    and handling purposes.  You should try to pit in every 6-10 laps

    since Skylines have high curb weight.



6.  Use Hard Racing Tires in order to keep up with the competition.

    Soft Racing Tires are good for higher traction, but they tend to

    wear out in only a matter of seconds.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11 REVERSE



This is not a course for a Nissan Skyline of any kind to get inside

because this track is laden with lots of sharp turns, weird hairpins,

and an array of unparrallel corners with harsh passages.  Urban racing

has always been the most famous form of racing, but has always been the

most technical aloft because almost all of the time you face a lot of

barriers in this track.



Turn 1

------

Approach this corner at a straight line and brake while having the foot

off the gas.  Try to take this turn pointing yourself at the middle or

at the inside of the turn so that you can allow yourself room for error

when the chicane is coming up.  This turn is sure to make you dizzy for

good because your taking on this turn at an insane speed.  Sadly and

sarcastically, since this is an Endurance Race, you'll have to go much

slower than you did on the Tuned Car Championships.


Turns 2 and 3

-------------

You shouldn't be taking this turn full speed and your chances of passing

this chicane will increase if you cut your speed during the final stretch

of Turn 1.  The left side of the track is the ideal area to start the

turn.  Try to cut the apex as much as you can here.  It's hard to time

this chicane since the turn happens just a little after the first curve

ends.



Turn 4

------

Approach this turn and brake at a straight line.  Cut the apex of the

turn and return to the outside of the track, making sure that you are

ready to use out-and-in once again for the next two turns after this

hairpin.  You should be going no faster than 45 mph here.  Since there

are times when time and speed are a concern, you may want to rub the

wall at the right side of the track by banking the car just right and

continue to rub the car until the turn ends.  This wears down your tires

faster so don't do this unless you need to catch up.



Turns 5 and 6

-------------

Try to slide on both of these turns, but try to stay outside of the

first half.  Afterwards, provided that you have stayed outside of Turn

5, you can cut the apex of Turn 6.  Try to treat these two as one turn

to optimize performance.  Going too fast will result in barrier contact

which may wear out the tires.  However, you'll have to go slightly

slower on these turns due to the tires that you've installed on your

Skyline.



Turn 7

------

A left bend will dizzy you real good just before the hairpin.  You need

to be going no faster than 45 mph here and doing out-and-in if you want

to avoid hitting the walls at the right.  It's really difficult to time

it right on this turn because the tires that I've installed is what

really hurts the Skyline's handling.



Turn 8

------

Move to the Left side of the track, slow down, cut the right side of the

track, and move back to the left side of the track just before the next

chicane starts.  You shouldn't be accelerating even though you are urged

to do so.



Turns 9 and 10

--------------

You may feel a little dizzy after Turn 8 so be prepared to slow down

just before the Chicane Starts.  You should try to keep a smooth racing

line and possibly cut both turns in order to avoid any unnecessary

slowing down.  This chicane is IMHO harder than the first since the sharp

turns are farther apart.  Also, you may be bound to hit some walls

depending on the tires that you are wearing.



Turns 11 and 12

---------------

These easy bends should be no problem, but don't be going full speed

ahead as you will have to face the harsh corridor sooner or later and

if you want to pass this area without any frontal contact with any of

the barricades, then it's important that you brake in a straight line

to cut your speed in preparation for the rough chicanes.



Turns 13 through 16

-------------------

Unless you were able to cut your speed from the previous point at the

above paragraph, you'll be finding yourself hitting the barriers all of

a sudden.  While going through these chicanes, it's crucial that you

don't get into a blatant slide that may cause you to go off-balance

during this crappy area.  Keep the car running straight and don't go

any faster than 80 mph for the best results.  Overspinning the tires

will result in blatant tire burn and possibly some engine overheat.



Turn 17

-------

This turn can be taken from the left, to the right during the turn, and

back into the left (although you should try to position yourself to the

right, but that's Turn 18) by braking at a straight line, and sliding

throughout this turn.  Have the car straightened up so that you can

allow some drama at Turn 18.



Turn 18

-------

Move from the left side of the track and into the right side of the

track.  After the turn, you should position yourself to the right side

of the track to prepare yourself to take on the hairpin which is coming

up.



Turn 19

-------

You need to be braking at a straight line and possibly use out and in

at no faster than 55 mph in order to avoid any collision with any walls,

even though you're bound to hit the barriers your first couple of times.

You can slide through this hairpin but it's too dangerous because that's

when you risk spinning-out.  You can take on this hairpin like you did

with the first, but do that ONLY if you need to catch up with the

competition.



Turn 20

-------

At the straightaway, position yourself to the left side of the track.

Brake ahead of time so that you can allow some room for error.  Clip the

apex of the turn.  Try to go as slow as you can because Turn 21 follows

up right after this turn.  If you want to take on Turn 21 without drama,

then you should try to stay either centered after the turn or stay at the

right side of the track to avoid any problems.  Since the tires are not

as responsive as SS Racing Tires, you may need to brake a little earlier

so that you can allow some room for error.



Turn 21

-------

Clip the apex of this turn by slowing down and sliding this lamer.  Be

careful not to hit the barrier at the left when you are cutting the apex.

You can still make it throughout this turn even from the left side of the

track, but it's pretty ludicrous since you hit the wall at the right.

The key to undertaking this turn is to move to the right as much as you

can and clip the apex before all is lost.



Turns 22 and 23

---------------

This is a blind chicane.  Try to slow down just right so that you can

clip the apex of this chicane without any contact with the barriers.  I

find this too difficult because I can't see what's gonna happen next due

to the slight upgrade and the height of the barriers.  The second part

of the chicane is a lot sharper, so stay on your toes.  Your chances of

crossing this chicane without any barrier contact will be greater if

you slow down earlier than what you would do with SS Racing Tires.



Turn 24

-------

Move to the right side of the track before this turn.  Brake with the

wheels parrallel and slide this final lamer by clipping the apex.  You

should be at the right side of the track when the turn ends.



Turn 25

-------

You should now be able to complete the track without any further problems.

Stay as low as you can in this turn for some much needed speed.  If you

are wearing HH Racing Tires, I recommend that you pull over to the pits

every 6-10 laps (because the higher the curb weight, the shorter the

tire life).  If you are using SS Racing Tires, then you're out of luck.



========================================================================

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS



The purpose of creating Gran Turismo FAQs grouped by License Classes is

to provide help in how to pass the license tests, and how to get first

place in each track and series. This also happens to be one of the

PlayStation games where I've been receiving lots of stupid e-mail about

questions that can be easily answered by myself when I was only 7 years

of age. Before you even e-mail me about Gran Turismo again, you are
strongly advised to look over this section before e-mailing me.  Most
of your questions should be answered by just simply looking at this FAQ
and/or just by looking at this section!



Q: Is there a code to unlock the 1967 Chevrolet Corvette in the Simulation

   Mode of the game?



A: Hell no. This car is only available at the Arcade Mode of the game.



Q: How come you don't write any FAQs for the Arcade Mode of the game?



A: Simple. Because much of the game's replay value is centralized

   throughout the Simulation Mode.



Q: Why do you tell me to use the FWD and AWD cars in any of your GT

   FAQs?



A: They're a lot more stable and more forgiving to drive than Rear

   Wheel Cars, which require a lot of respect. My personal favorite

   is the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition with AWD, a great prize you

   can have for winning the US Versus Japan Championships.



Q: Why don't you use the Concept Car?



A: I hate the Concept Car. It's rather unstable and it sucks (IMHO).

   However, Adrian Pepper recommends that you try it in one race

   although you may hate the unstable nature of the car. You have to

   test the car and keep on fiddling the car until you find the right

   settings for you. To caution you, never, ever, ever fiddle the

   car's settings (you've got to know the car's strengths and weaknesses

   first) unless you know what you're doing.  This is my most hated

   car from my perspective, and this car isn't Mark Kim-approved

   at all.



Q: Do I NEED to run all stages of Weight Reduction before buying the

   Racing Body?



A: Now this is one interesting question. I usually purchase all stages

   of Weight Reduction before buying the Racing Body. However, this is

   what has Brian McNulty said to me on a previous message:
 

   "I am writing to you about your B, A, and IA strategy guides. I have

    noted several times that you make notes telling people to 'Make sure

    that you buy all the stages of weight reduction before you buy the

    racing modification'.


    This is not acurate in that your car will weigh the same after the

    racing modification regardless of whether or not you buy the weight

    reduction or not.


    I conducted an experiment with Mutsubishi GTO Twin Turbo. The car

    brand new weighs 3769 lbs, after three stages of weight reduction,

    AND, racing modification it weighed 2713 lbs.


    I then bought another GTO same color and all weighing 3769 lbs. off

    the lot and performed ONLY the racing modification. Both of these

    cars *Castrolized* weighed 2713 lbs, one with the racing mod., the
    other without.


    Try it some time and E-mail me with the results."



Q: What are the best cars to use for each series?



A: Here's the lowdown:


   Sunday Cup: A car that's powerful enough.
 

  Clubman Cup: An adequately-powered up Nissan Skyline GTS-R
   GT Cup: A fully-tuned Nissan Skyline GTS-R or a Mitsubishi FTO LM


   GT World Cup: Same as with the GT Cup


   Front-Wheel Drive: Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R, Fully Tuned, Racing

   Body under your discretion.


   Rear-Wheel Drive: Dodge Viper or TVR Cerbera. The Viper GTS-R

   and Cerbera LM are also strong cars.


   All-Wheel Drive: Any Nissan Skyline GTS-R


   Featherweight Championships: Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R, Fully

   Tuned.  I personally would try to get a racing body with this one.


   US Versus Japan: Nissan Skyline GTS-R or Mitsubishi FTO LM


   Japan Versus UK: Nissan Skyline GTS-R or Mitsubishi FTO LM

   US Versus UK: TVR Cerbera LM or Dodge Viper GTS-R


   Commercial Car Championships: Dodge Viper GTS/RT-10 (Don't do

   anything to it) or the Rarity from the IA License Tests.


   Heavily Tuned Championships: Heavily Tuned Nissan Skyline GT-R

   (No Racing Bodies).  This is the hardest race to win on because

   you can't bring along your big-daddy racing cars to this one, which

   is a sad moment!


   Megaspeed: Nissan Skyline GT-R V-Spec or Mitsubishi GTO

   Twinturbo/MR fully fiddled for speeds of at least 245 mph


   Grand Valley Endurance: Mitsubishi FTO LM


   Special Stage Route 11 Endurance: Mitsubishi FTO LM
   Special Stage Route 11 Reverse Endurance: Heavily Tuned Nissan

   Skyline GT-R (No Racing Bodies).  This is another difficult race to

   win.  Definitely configure your car for handling here.



Q: I can't get past License A-4!



A: This is one of the game's toughest tests in the Simulation Mode. The

   key in this license test is to corner through bad turns without blatant

   slowdown. The Nissan Skyline GT-R VSpec isn't an easy car to use so

   this track may require use of Manual Transmission. At the starting line,
   you want to cut through the apex and stay inside

   all the way at full speed. Slow down ahead of time from the outside

   before the first sharp turn and don't brake too hard. Cut the apex of

   the sharp turn and use short taps of the gas to buffer the cornering.

   If you have to slow down, just use short taps of the pedal. At the

   final major turn, you want to be at the outside and then just use the

   gas pedal. Cut the apex. Try to keep a smooth line all the way so

   that you don't lose speed from sliding through the turn. This test

   takes a lot of getting used to so don't get pissed if you can't pass it

   your first couple of times. This test mainly sees how competent of a

   driver you are rather than on speed.


   Be sure to pay attention to my Gran Turismo A-Class License Guide as

   it has some rough hypothesis on this cheap test!



Q: Tell me the eligible cars for the featherweight championships!



A: The eligible cars are as follows:


   * Toyota Starlet Glanza V

   * Toyota Corolla Levin BZG

   * Toyota Sprinter Trueno BZG

   * Toyota AE86 Corolla Levin GT-APEX

   * Toyota AE86 Sprinter Trueno GT-APEX

   * Mitsubishi FTO 1994 GR

   * Mitsubishi FTO 1994 GPX

   * Mitsubishi FTO GPX

   * Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R

   * Mitsubishi Mirage Asti RX

   * Mitsubishi Mirage 1992 Cyborg R

   * Acura Integra GS-R

   * Acura Integra Type R

   * Honda Civic Sedan

   * Honda Civic Racer

   * Honda Civic 3-Door

   * Honda Civic Del Sol S

   * Honda Civic Del Sol Si

   * Honda Civic 1991 CR-X Si

   * Honda Civic 1993 3-Door

   * Honda Civic 1993 Sedan

   * Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster 1989 Normal

   * Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster 1990 V-Special

   * Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster 1992 S-Special

   * Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster Normal

   * Miata Eunos Roadster V-Special

   * Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster S-Special

   * Mazda Demio GL-X

   * Mazda Demio GL

   * Mazda Demio LX G-Package

   * Mazda Demio A-Spec.


   All cars (with the exception of the Demio A-Spec) are shown on your

   GT Manual and Instruction Book.



Q: I can't get past License Test B-3!!!



A: It's time for the real fight. This test is possibly the toughest test

   among the B-Class License Tests. Since the Honda Civic Del Sol

   doesn't have lively acceleration and excellent speed, your best bet is

   to stay at the right side of the track and try to slow down ahead of

   time. Don't use the brakes since you may blatantly slow down. Use

   short taps of the Gas to level around the apex and make sure that

   you keep a smooth driving line so that you don't lose too much speed.

   I highly recommend using the Manual Transmission for this track.



Q: I CAN'T PASS A SINGLE IA-LICENSE TEST!!!



A: All of these IA-Class License Tests are set on the Time Trials,

   requiring you to utilize just about everything you learned from the

   B and A Class Events. If for any reason you can't master any of the

   IA-License Tests, then here are the solutions:
 

   1. Try attempting on all of the first seven License Tests. If

      for any reason you can't pass any of the seven license

      tests, then just exit out of the IA License Tests and save

      your progress to your Memory Card.
 

   2. The best way to know how to use the Dodge Viper GTS

      Coupe is to throw the Dodge Viper GTS Coupe on the

      Commercial Car Championships. Buy a Viper GTS Coupe

      and don't do anything to it. Not only this is a great way

      to get used to the Viper GTS Coupe, but it's also a great

      way to earn some cold hard cash.


   3. Try to buy a TVR Griffith and don't do anything to it. Test

      the TVR Griffith through the "freelance" Time Trial Runs

      and see how good you are with the Griffith. You may

      need to practice with the TVR through the Sunday Cup a

      few times to get used to it.


   4. I personally would try to get used to a car with at least

      500 Horsepower. There are plenty of Racing Models that

      has lots of horses under the hood. Also, try to get used

      to a fully-tuned, racing modified Nissan Skyline GT-R or a

      Mitsubishi GTO TwinTurbo/MR.


   5. I personally would participate in any of these A-Class

      Series: All International Competition Series, GT Cup, and

      the Commecial Car Series. Also, try to use a Rear-Drive

      Racing Car so that you can get used to the Rear-Drive

      Cars a lot better.



Q: Please tell me what the cheats are.



A: I'll make this clear: THERE ARE NO CHEAT CODES IN GRAN TURISMO!!!!

   Sony did a good job creating a game that has NO CHEAT CODES

   whatsoever. Cheat codes ONLY RUIN REPLAY VALUE so be it. PLEASE DO

   NOT BEG ME FOR ANY MORE GRAN TURISMO/GRAN TURISMO 2 CHEAT CODES

   THROUGH E-MAIL ANYMORE!!! I'm getting sick and tired of

   anybody begging me for any cheat codes!!!! If you EVEN DARE

   ask me for any cheat codes for Gran Turismo or Gran Turismo 2,

   then I will assume you spamming me.



Q: What do you mean by "Castrolizing" the car?



A: I use the term "Castrolize" as a classification when you tune up

   your car to the maximum possible levels.  This means maxing-out the

   brakes, gearshaft, horsepower, and all other attributes of the car.

   I'll leave the decision between weight reduction and racing body up

   to you, though.



Q: When are you going to create an FAQ for Gran Turismo 2 for the Play

   Station?



A: Definitely not.  I was overall disappointed with the sequel.



========================================================================

THE DO'S AND DONT'S



Again, this FAQ is for use only in the following sites:

* Mark Kim's Website: http://home.comcast.net/~markkim31
* GameFAQs http://www.gamefaqs.com




If you find this FAQ is AT ANY OTHER SITE OTHER THAN THE LISTED ABOVE,

THEN IT IS AN ILLEGAL COPY.  Please notify and/or warn me about this

as soon as you can.  Thank you.



In addition, only myself (Mark Kim, Vesther Fauransy) and Gamers.COM

(http://www.gamers.com, Joel, please notify me of any address changes

if you are reading this) are the ONLY ones who can HTMLize this file

(with bug busts and grammar changes permitted).



Why?  Because these sites are the only ones that keep all original work

updated and up-to-date.



You can always get the latest version of this FAQ at GameFAQs since I
always put the latest version of my works right there first.




GameFAQs does a good job keeping the files up-to-date at all times and
is regarded as the most visited "stable" for FAQ-related walkthroughs,

original work, and the like.



Rules:



* DO NOT place this file in your web site directly.  Only Joel Downs,
  GameFAQs, and myself have exclusive rights to this file.



* If you are planning to link to any of the sites I have

  mentioned on this reminder, then you are to be advised that

  your linking rights are heavily limited as foretold on the

  webmaster's fine prints (depending on where you plan to make

  your link to).  If I'm too vague on this, then please visit

  the following URL to see why more and more webmasters are

  restricting links:


  = http://www.templetons.com/brad/linkright.html (Brad Templeton's

    Linking Rights Essay).


========================================================================

REFERENCES OF THIS FAQ



NO GT FAQ can be complete without giving "hard credit" for those who

helped me out while I was still green on this game.  These people/sites

are:



*  Jaz Rignall (http://www.psmonline.com)

*  GameFAQs.com (http://www.gamefaqs.com)

*  Mousse Lee

*  Mystery Rhee (http://mit.edu/mystery/www/gtfaq.txt)

*  Sam Davis

*  Fukomoto Atsushi (http://www.imasy.or.jp/~fukumoto/gt/)

*  Secrets of the Sega Sages (http://www.segasages.com)

*  Imagine Games Network (http://www.imaginegames.com)



========================================================================

SUGGESTING SUGGESTIONS AND OTHER TRALALA



Sending UCE to any of the mailboxes that I have is not tolerated.

Period.  I report any incidence of spamming by checking the header on

where you originated the message at and then report the incidence to

the server you originated your message at (which is more likely to get

you in deep trouble) or I can just slam you by sending complaints to

the following: The server you originated the message at, to your

provider, or possibly the Free-Mail Service that you use.  Don't spam

me.  It's not worth it.



In addition, I WILL _NO LONGER_ TOLERATE ANY E-MAIL ASKING ME FOR ANY

CHEATS COMPATIBLE FOR GRAN TURISMO.  If you even dare ask me for any

cheat codes for GT, then I will assume that you are spamming.



See http://spam.abuse.net to see why it's bad.



========================================================================

SOME RANTS



After having to winder around the International A Class License tests,

I managed to get my IA-Class License and saved this progress on my

Memory Card.  This is good because I don't want to go through the

trouble of having to get my license once again.  It may be hard to get

your IA License but once you get it, then it's worth the effort of

getting it.



When I read one of GameFan's magazines (Commercial Magazines now suck

these days, now that you can get hardcore strategies on the Internet

for free), I've realized that there is NO CHEAT CODES listed for Gran

Turismo.  Be it.  There is no cheat codes for Gran Turismo.  Sony will

not create any cheat codes for any game that they might publish or

develop and never will.  Cheat Codes only spoil replay value, and that's

the bottom line!



========================================================================

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS



*  Jaz Rignall for being the standard example of Gran Turismo Domination

   and being the wiz in Gran Turismo.  Read his Gran Turismo Guide at

   http://www.psmonline.com.



*  Sony and Polyphony Digital for creating the best PlayStation Game in

   the market ever yet.



*  Toyota, Honda, Acura, Nissan, Mitsubishi, Mazda, Subaru, Chrysler,

   General Motors, TVR, and Aston Martin for permitting Sony to portray

   their cars in Gran Turismo.



*  Fukomoto Atsushi, Sam Davis, Mousse Lee, and Mystery Rhee for being

   one of the many first FAQ Authors to produce a Gran Turismo FAQ.



*  Secrets of the Sega Sages for secrets regarding about winning the

   Commercial Car Race.



*  Imagine Games Network for accepting Sega Sages and GameFAQs.com as

   IGN Affiliates.



*  Tigeraid (John Culbert) for using my Gran Turismo Documents as a basis

   for creating his own compendium.



*  Joel Downs for creating HTMLized versions of my Gran Turismo Documents

   and for days of e-mail communication.



*  GameFAQs for being the largest stable of original, fresh work.



*  Chris MacDonald/Kao Megura for being the first 5MB FAQ Author.



** END OF DOCUMENT **



Unpublished Work (tm) and (c) by Mark Kim.  All Rights Reserved

Gran Turismo: (tm) and (c) by Sony Computer Entertainment.  Developed

by Polyphony Digital.  All the cars, images, their likelinesses, and

other real-life car-related events are (tm) and (c) of their respective

owners.