Gran Turismo
                            Quick Cash Guide
                For the American Version of Gran Turismo
          Sony Computer Entertainment/Polyphony Digital for the
                       Sony PlayStation 1 Console
WARNING: This guide will ONLY work for the American versions of the game
                  Compiled by Mark Kim (Vesther Fauransy)
                                  Nova 1.6
            Date of Completion: March 8, 2000 (No Time Given)
          Date of Public Release: March 8, 2000 (No Time Given)

Copyright Information
---------------------
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 Gran Turismo is developed by Polyphony Digital under license by Sony
 Computer Entertainment, Inc.  This game is copyrighted 1997, 1998 Sony
 Computer Entertainment.  All Rights Reserved.  The cars, images, and
 all cars' likeliness are registered trademarks and copyrights of its
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 Mitsubishi, Aston Martin, Chevrolet, Nissan, TVR, Dodge, and Subaru
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I'LL MAKE THIS SIMPLE: THIS FILE IS MINE AND THERE IS NO UNAUTHORIZED
USE OF IT!!!!  I DIDN'T WRITE THIS FILE SO THAT YOU CAN MAKE ANY CRAP
MONEY OUT OF THIS WORK!!!  I DIDN'T WRITE THIS FILE SO THAT SOME SORRY
CRAP-WRITER CAN JUST PLACE ANY SINGLE DROPLET OF THIS FAQ INTO A
COMMERCIAL PUBLICATION, SLACK-OFF, AND GET PAID FOR IT!!!  AND I DIDN'T
WRITE THIS FAQ SO THAT SOME COPYCATTER CAN JUST CLAIM CREDIT FOR IT,
WHICH IS CONSIDERED STEALING AND PLAGIARISING.  ONLY FIVE WEBSITES
ARE ALLOWED TO MIRROR THIS WORK BECAUSE EITHER I OR ANY OTHER FAQ WRITER
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this paragraph, though.  It is to remain in one piece, free of charge,
and in its original state at all costs.

========================================================================
GENERAL INFORMATION

Make: Gran Turismo
Developer: Polyphony Digital
Publisher: Sony Computer Entertainment
Release Date: First Quarter 1998
ESRB Classification: E for Everyone, Suitable for All Ages
Genre: Racing
Platform: Sony PlayStation Type 1
MSRP: $49.99 US
Recommended Controllers: Sony Analog Dual-Shock Controller
Features: Memory Card Save.  Each save requires in between 1-5 blocks.

========================================================================
HISTORY OF THIS FILE

October 31, 1999
----------------
Many things have happened ever since I've written a rather incomplete
version of this guide.  I'd like to thank Jaz Rignall first of all for
influencing my gameplay upon Gran Turismo and John Culbert (tigeraid)
for asking me if he can have my permission to use my FAQs as resource.

Based upon my judgment, Jaz Rignall's Quick Cash Guide was based upon
the Japanese version of the game.  The noticeable change on the American
Edition of the game is that you need to have an A License before
participating on the Clubman Cup.

In order to make this Quick Cash Guide more convenient, I will try to
group what Beginners and Advanced Players should do on each event.  Feel
free to variate in between if you feel that this isn't helping you much
enough.

Enough said, let's get it on.

December 19, 1999
-----------------
Added the advanced version of getting quick cash to this guide.  I had
to separate the beginner version from the advanced version so find your
skill level and get going!

February 14, 2000
-----------------
I HATE VALENTINE'S DAY!!!!!  To counter my hatred towards Valentine's
Day, I'd better start off with the major uphaul of this A-Class License
Guide.  This is the first update in a long time so I highly recommend
that you read it over and over again to see what twists and turns that
I might have included.  Also, be on a lookout for any bugs.  If you see
any, then please let me know about this so that I can fix them right
away.  I had to add a Frequently Asked Questions section so that the
dumbest questions can be answered.

I thought that I would've waited until some other time to update this
guide, but I thought earlier would be better so that my anger towards
Valentine's Day would calm down.

March 8, 2000
-------------
I've finally got my copy of Gran Turismo 2.  It plays a lot better than
the first one, but both are kick-ass games.  It's hard to say which one
is better.  All GT2 does is add 66% more cars, rally courses, and some
courses that were not included in GT1.

Here in this update, I have added a section called CASTROLIZING.  I
hope this section clears the confusion of my habitual use of Castrolize
in my GT1 Documents.

I would like to tell you that now I'm working on a set of GT2 Documents,
but they will ONLY include information that is pertinent to my length of
playing.  More likely the Endurance Recommendations for GT2 will come
first because the Endurance is pretty easy for me to cover without the
risk of plagiarizing, and that's the best way for me to build up my
originality on GT2.

========================================================================
CONTENTS OF THIS FILE

* Newsflash
* Castrolizing the Cars
* Path to B Class
* Path to A Class
* Path to IA Class
* The Final Stretch
* The Advanced Approach
* Frequently Asked Questions
* Do's and Dont's
* Suggesting Fixes and other Tralala
* Resources and stuff
* Acknowledgements
* One Final Warning

========================================================================
NEWSFLASH

***AN IMPORTANT RANT FROM THE FAQ AUTHOR***

AS YOU SHOULD HAVE NOTICED FROM MY PREVIOUS WORKS, I WILL _NOT_ BE
ACCEPTING ANY E-MAILS FROM ANY WEBMASTER WHO SEEKS TO PLACE THIS FILE
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IF FOR ANY REASON YOU _DO_ MIRROR ANY OF MY WORKS ON YOUR OWN WEBSITE
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THIS HAS BEEN MY POLICY EVER SINCE I HAVE STARTED TO RESTRICT THE
AMOUNT OF SITES THAT ARE PERMITTED TO MIRROR MY WORKS AND IT WILL
ALWAYS BE.

Note: This notice is derived on Brett Nemesis Franklin's Crazy Taxi
FAQ for the Sega Dreamcast although there has been some variations to
make this one more severe and a bit more formal. Also, I will repeat
this near the end of the document.

As always, newer versions of this FAQ can be found first at my own web
site located at http://www.verasnaship.net.  If you have any fixes or
any other tralala you want to share with me, then use the convenient
e-mail form at http://www.verasnaship.net/emailme.html.

I grant you permission to e-mail me at the aforementioned URL as
described herein.  E-Mailing me directly to my mailbox using an E-Mail
Client is STRICTLY FORBIDDEN.

This document, like all Video Game FAQs on the Internet, must be
viewed in a monotype font or the alignment will not be correct.  If
the alignment isn't correct for any reason, then please follow these
procedures:

1.  On Netscape Communicator, click on Edit, then Preferences.
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It is strongly advisable that you *do* view this document through
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and then open up the Text File.  Set the font face to Courier New and
set the font size to 10.

========================================================================
CASTROLIZATION OF THE CARS

When I first created this document about 2 years ago, I felt that if
you modify the cars to the teeth, then the cars would definitely be
unbeatable.  I was wrong.  Because each cars have its own strengths
and weaknesses, beefing the cars up to maximum strength varies from
car to car.  For example, a Viper GTS Coupe can't go up to NA Level
3 but starts out with a lot of horsepower and torque when you first
buy it.  On the other hand, some of the better cars in the game (i.e.
Nissan Skyline GT-R VSpec) _can_ be beefed up to the teeth with the
highest level modification parts available in the game.  Please
be warned that some cars may have higher prices as far as mod parts
are concerned.

Usually, cars perform better when they use maximum-strength modification
parts, but some cars perform better without the brute force they need.
Some of the Japanese Cars (i.e. Nissan Skyline GT-R VSpec) cannot perform
well unless you've placed a maximum-strength mod part or two.  That is
why learning the tracks and winning them all is as important as fully
tuning your cars to the teeth.

Unless you are a real mechanic, you should never fiddle with some of the
settings because you can either make a car unstable, stiff, or even
worse, unforgiving to use.  That is why you need to think twice before
even adjusting some of the car's properties (i.e. Suspension) before
even attempting this risk.  That is why some cars perform better when
fully Castrolized than the others.

Castrolizing your car involves tuning up your car with the following
Tune-Ups:

* Muffler and Air Filter
  = Racing Muffler and Air Filter
* Brakes
  = Sports Brakes
  = Brake Balance Controller
* Engine Tuning
  = Tuned ROM
  = Port Polishing
  = Engine Balancing
  = Bore and Stroke-Up (Increasing Displacement)
* For Turbo Cars
  = Turbo Kit Level 4
  = Racing High-Capacity Intercooler
* For Normal Aspirated Cars
  = Normal Aspiration Tuneup Kit Level 3 (This applies ONLY to some cars)
* Transmission
  = Racing Support Gearbox
  = Triple-Plate Clutch
  = Racing Flywheel
  = Carbon Driveshaft (only applies to certain cars)
* Suspension
  = Racing Support Suspension
  = Any Stabilizers (Remember overstiffening your car's suspension will
    equate to lousy driving)
* Tires
  = Soft/Soft Racing Tires
* Others
  = Weight Reduction All Stages (All stages of Weight Reduction MUST be
    performed in order
  = Racing Body Modification

Hopefully, this should clear some confusions on why I was pretty much
vehement with my use of "Castrolization" throughout my FAQs.

========================================================================
PATH TO B-CLASS

All: Get your B-Class License when you start a brand-new game.

Beginners: After getting your B License, purchase a used Honda Prelude.
It's not as competitive as with the Toyota MA70 Supra, but this car
should suffice for your first time around.

Advanced: Go really eye-poppy by buying a Toyota MA70 Supra.  I know
this is not the best time to get a rear-wheel drive car at this point,
but now that you've learned how to tame a rear-wheel drive beast, you
should be ready to handle a Rear-Wheel Drive Car.

All: Enter the Sunday Cup race and use the car that you have recently
purchased and dominate the series.  For a Honda Prelude racer, you will
only be able to earn 24,000 credits at the start but a Toyota MA70 driver
may be able to go all the way with 28,500 credits.  Sell both the car that
you have started with and the Mazda Demio A-Spec to their original dealers.

All: After selling the earned Demio back to Mazda and the first car back
to its original dealer, go to Nissan, buy a 1989 Skyline GT-R, and spend
the rest of your credits for SS Racing Tires, Turbo Intercooler, and
whatever you can afford (Don't buy the Turbo Upgrade yet until you have
enough to afford for a Stage 4 tune). When you have purchased just about
everything you need to dominate the races (Like I said, don't buy the Turbo
Kit yet), go onto the 4WD Race and keep pounding on the 4WD Race.  Buy the
Stage 4 Kit right after you won/and pole entirely two times (Be sure you
sell the cars back to its original dealers), and win the series several
five more times.  From this point on, you can purchase a Mitsubishi FTO
GP Version R if you have enough money.  Keep on pounding on the 4WD
Challenge until you have fully saturated the FTO GP Version R to perfection.
Afterwards, go get your A License.

Note: You don't need to undergo weight reduction before getting the Racing
Body, it's just my recommendation.  Anyway, if you feel you need to remove
all unnecessary parts before Castrolizing your car, then please feel free
to use all stages of Weight Reduction and then the Racing Body.

========================================================================
PATH TO A-CLASS

After getting your A License, throw your 1989 GT-R into the Clubman Cup.
Keep on pounding on the Clubman Cup until you can afford to buy the racing
body on both the 1989 GT-R and the FTO GP Version R.  After buying the GP
Version R's Racing Body, participate on the Front-Wheel Drive Race and the
Featherweight Championships.  You should be able to win both the FF and
Lightweight challenges without much drama.  After winning both, throw your
1989 GT-R (now with the Racing Body) into the GT Cup.  Keep on pounding on
the GT Cup until you can afford to buy either a Dodge Viper GTS Coupe or a
Dodge Viper RT 10 (I recommend the GTS Coupe).  Don't do anything with the
Viper you have purchased, though.  After winning the GT Cup, get used to
the intense competition on the GT Cup, or of course, you may choose to
start participating on the International Car Championships starting at the
US Versus Japan Championships.  I recommend that you participate on the
International Car Champinships right after you win the GT Cup for the first
time.  With 913 horses under the Skyline's hood, you should have no problem
toasting up the competition.  If you win the Mitsubishi FTO Limited
Edition, then go on and participate on the Japan Versus Great Britian Cars
Championships.  If you win a GTS-R, then throw the GT-R 1989 into the GT
Cup once again, and go back to Japan versus USA and try to get the FTO
Limited Edition.  Hopefully, you should be able to get the FTO, which is
the best car in the game. =)

With the FTO Limited Edition on your possession, your next stop is Japan
versus Britain Car Championships.  Alternatively, you can throw the now
cheap Nissan 1989 GT-R on this series, but using 913 horses under the hood
won't be fair to the other cars in this race because none of these cars are
capable of reaching speeds of 310 kmh.  So in order to be fair to everyone
on this series, use the FTO Limited Edition.  Win this series, and if you
get the TVR Cerbera Limited Edition, participate on the Front-Engine,
Rear-Drive Championships.  If not, then throw the FTO LM on the GT Cup (It
should be more forgiving to drive than the overly powered Skyline), and
reparticipate on the Japan versus UK Series.  Hopefully, you should be able
to get the TVR Cerbera Limited Edition this time around.

Before you EVEN get your hands on US Versus Britain or the Front-Engine,
Front-Drive Car Championships, I suggest that you participate on the
Commercial Car Championships using the Viper GTS Coupe.  Hopefully, you
didn't do anything with it.  This way, you should be able to learn how to
drive a Rear-Wheel Drive Car, which are the least forgiving type of cars in
the game.  A good sign of skills improvement of the rear-wheel drive car is
that you have won a minimum of 350,000 credits on the Normal Car
Championships, and if you can pole and win the tracks all the way, then you
will get 400,000 credits.  Be sure that you take advantage of the Normal
Car Championships as much as you can with the Viper GTS Coupe.  Pound on
this series many times to earn as much cash as you need.

Buy a brand new Nissan Skyline GT-R V Spec.  Now saturate the GT-R V Spec
to dominant perfection, and purchase the Racing Body.  Jittle with the
settings a little bit and throw the car into testing until you can reach
speeds of AT LEAST 390 kmh on the Test Course.  Be sure that the car has
robust acceleration while you're at it.  Once you got the car working on
speedy condition, throw the car on the High Speed Championships.

Once you win the High Speed and the Normal Car Championships, throw the TVR
Cerbera Limited Edition onto the Front-Engine, Rear-Drive Championships
first and then the US Versus Britain Championships to conclude most of your
pre-IA Agenda.  Now go get your IA License.  The IA License is tough to
get, but hopefully, you're used to cars over 500 hp and you're more comfy
with Rear-Drive Cars.

========================================================================
PATH TO THE IA-LICENSE

After you get your IA License, your first objective is to throw the FTO LM
into the GT World Cup.  Win the series and use all the money to buy ANOTHER
1989 GT-R.  Do the same thing like you did with the other GT-R (You should
be able to tune-up the GT-R at cut-cost this time around), except don't buy
the racing body for this 1989 GT-R this time around because your next stop
is the Overtuned Car Championships.  This is a tough series to dominate
because of the Toyota Supra RZ, Mazda RX-7, and the Nissan Skyline 4WD
Cars.  Once you win the series, then all you need is the FTO Limited
Edition for the next two races.  Participate on the Special Stage Route 11
Endurance Race with Racing Cars first.  Pole on this race and earn 15,000
Credits.  Win the Endurance Race and earn 150,000 credits.  Now you should
be getting rich.

Next stop is a close-to-two-hour race throughout Grand Valley Speedway with
the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition.  Pole on this race and you will get
15,000 Credits.  Win the race and you will get 300,000 Credits and you
should take home a free Toyota Castrol Supra GT. =)

The final race is probably the most difficult race to win in because you
will have to use the Nissan Skyline 1989 GT-R without the Racing Body.
Since the Skyline GT-R tends to wear out its tires pretty quickly, you may
have to expect to get into a pit stop for fresh new tires for every 3-5
laps.  I strongly recommend that you buy tires that can withstand
additional laps before participating, and do some practice Time Trial Races
on Special Stage Route 11 Reverse before you're capable of taking on the
SSR11 Reverse Endurance.  Be sure to jitter with the settings a little so
that acceleration will be crisp and handling/braking will be acceptable to
your standards.  Now you should be ready.  Pole on this track and you will
earn 15,000 Credits.  Win the race and you will get 150,000 credits and a
Nissan Nismo Stock for use at your own home.

Note: You should try to fiddle with the settings to make sure that you
are configuring the car for cornering before participating in this grueling
race.

That's about it!!!  You should have AT LEAST 1,200,000 Credits to chew on
by the time you finish getting first place all the way!!!  Remember if you
want all the cars on your garage, the quickest way to earn money (and
possibly the best way) is to toss the Dodge Viper GTS Coupe on the Normal
Car Championships.  This way you will be able to earn the money you need to
insert a lot of cars onto your Memory Card.

I hope this helps!!!  If you need something more specific, please drop me a
line!

========================================================================
ADVANCED STRATEGIES

WARNING: THIS SECTION WILL REQUIRE THE TIGHTEST POSSIBLE FEEL OF THE
REAR-WHEEL DRIVE CARS, SO BE PREPARED FOR THE WORST!!!

Get your B-Class License and then buy a used MA70 Supra as your first
car and throw this car into the Sunday Cup.  When you get first place
overall in the series, sell the Demio back to Mazda (Remember that you
can get more money if you sell the car back to its original dealer).
Keep on slamming on the Sunday Cup until you get enough money to
purchase either a Dodge Viper RT-10 or GTS Coupe (usually dominating
the Sunday Cup twice should suffice).  Now get your A-Class License.

After getting the following items:

* Viper GTS Coupe or RT-10 Roadster (Don't do anything to it)
* A-Class License

You should throw the Viper into the Clubman Cup and the Commercial
Car contest.  The Viper should have enough horsepower to blow the
competition to a crisp in the Clubman Cup and when you properly use
the Viper, then it's the deadliest car in the Commercial Car Series.
Once you have learned how to use the Viper, then it's second nature
all the way, and it becomes the ultimate cash hauling machine.

If you get the Subaru Impreza for winning the Commercial Car Series,
then follow along.  If not, continue to slam on the Normal Car Series
until you get an Impreza.

Soup up the Impreza with a Stage 2 Turbocharger, Horsepower Enhancement,
Racing Gearbox, Sport Brakes, Brake Balancer, SS Racing Tires, and a
Racing Body.  All other options are optional but it *should* help.
Race this psyched up Impreza in the US Versus Japan contest and through
the Japan versus British series.  You should wield the following cars
before continuing along: Mitsubishi FTO LM, Dodge Viper GTS-R, and the
TVR Cerbera LM.  If not, continue slamming on these two series until
you get these three important cars in your garage.

With the TVR Cerbera LM on your arsenal, take it into the US Versus UK
Series.  Win the Britain Versus America series and then proceed on to
buy a new Dodge Viper GTS Coupe or RT-10 or perhaps a new TVR Cerbera.
I hardly ever try them, except for some kicks.

You'll have to keep one Viper as it is as you need a car to participate
in the dreaded Normal Car Championships so if you are a Viper Fan,
get a new Viper and fully equip it with all the works.  Before going
onto the Megaspeed Championships, make sure that either the Second Viper
or the Cerbera is configured to go at least 250 mph so that you can
burn the Competition to a crisp.

The modified Cerbera or your second Viper can be raced in the GT Cup
and in the Endurance Races.  After going through these basic steps,
you can then participate in the other series in your free time.

========================================================================
SOME AFTERTHOUGHTS

This file may still have some bugs so if you find any of them, please
don't hesitate to drop me a line.

========================================================================
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

The purpose of creating Gran Turismo FAQs grouped by License Classes is
to provide help in how to pass the license tests, and how to get first
place in each track and series. This also happens to be one of the
PlayStation games where I've been receiving lots of stupid e-mail about
questions that can be easily answered by myself when I was only 7 years
of age. Before you even e-mail me about Gran Turismo again, I highly
recommend going over THIS SECTION OF MY FAQ and all other FAQs I've
created for Gran Turismo.  This section is basically derived from my
very own Gran Turismo Frequently Asked Questions Pages at the following
URL:

* http://www.verasnaship.net/text/gtfaqs.html 

Also, please look up at the available documents that I have by going
inside http://www.verasnaship.net/text. Most of your questions should be
answered by these documents as well.

If for any reason you do NOT see a question that I have answered just
yet, then you can use the Mail To Me form by punching in the Form Mail
Address (http://www.verasnaship.net/text/emailme.html) of your favorite
Browser. Please be VERY constructive when asking me questions. If the
question turns out to be a main concern for either of the Gran Turismo
Series, then I will put it up on this page.

Q: Is there a code to unlock the 1967 Chevrolet Corvette in the Simulation
   Mode of the game?

A: Hell no. This car is only available at the Arcade Mode of the game.

Q: How come you don't write any FAQs for the Arcade Mode of the game?

A: Simple. Because much of the game's replay value is centralized
   throughout the Simulation Mode.

Q: Why do you tell me to use the FWD and AWD cars in any of your GT
   FAQs?

A: They're a lot more stable and more forgiving to drive than Rear
   Wheel Cars, which require a lot of respect. My personal favorite
   is the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition with AWD, a great prize you
   can have for winning the US Versus Japan Championships.

Q: Why don't you use the Concept Car?

A: I hate the Concept Car. It's rather unstable and it sucks (IMHO).
   However, Adrian Pepper recommends that you try it in one race
   although you may hate the unstable nature of the car. You have to
   test the car and keep on fiddling the car until you find the right
   settings for you. To caution you, never, ever, ever fiddle the
   car's settings (you've got to know the car's strengths and weaknesses
   first) unless you know what you're doing.  For beginners, sell this
   sorry-ass car back to Chrysler (you don't need it).  However, this
   is definitely a different story for the Advanced Players since they
   are more biased towards Rear-Drive Cars.

Q: Do I NEED to run all stages of Weight Reduction before buying the
   Racing Body?

A: Now this is one interesting question. I usually purchase all stages
   of Weight Reduction before buying the Racing Body. However, this is
   what has Brian McNulty said to me on a previous message: 

   "I am writing to you about your B, A, and IA strategy guides. I have
    noted several times that you make notes telling people to 'Make sure
    that you buy all the stages of weight reduction before you buy the
    racing modification'. 

    This is not acurate in that your car will weigh the same after the
    racing modification regardless of whether or not you buy the weight
    reduction or not.

    I conducted an experiment with Mutsubishi GTO Twin Turbo. The car
    brand new weighs 3769 lbs, after three stages of weight reduction,
    AND, racing modification it weighed 2713 lbs.

    I then bought another GTO same color and all weighing 3769 lbs. off
    the lot and performed ONLY the racing modification. Both of these
    cars *Castrolized* weighed 2713 lbs, one with the racing mod., the
    other without.

    Try it some time and E-mail me with the results."

Q: What are the best cars to use for each series?

A: Here's the lowdown:

   Sunday Cup: A car that can blow all the Vehicular Slugs to toast. 

   Clubman Cup: The first time I won this series, I used a psyched-up
   Mitsubishi Eclipse.  Be sure that you have at least 400-bhp under the
   hood and some Sports Parts plugged in before participating in this
   series.

   GT Cup: The going gets tough from this point on.  Either a
   fully-tuned, non-racing "Best from Japan" car or a Racing Car.  If
   you want to use a British or an American Car, there's nothing better
   than either a TVR Cerbera or a Dodge Viper.

   GT World Cup: Mitsubishi FTO LM or Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo/MR,
   fully-tuned with the racing body.

   Front-Wheel Drive: Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R, Fully Tuned, Racing
   Body under your discretion.

   Rear-Wheel Drive: Dodge Viper or TVR Cerbera. The Viper GTS-R
   and Cerbera LM are also strong cars.

   All-Wheel Drive: Nissan Skyline GTS-R 1989, Nissan Skyline GTR
   VSpec.  Reason why I said so on this is because the Skylines are
   the most powerful AWD cars in the game, although these cars really
   need sedatives, and they can't be controlled too easily.

   Featherweight Championships: Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R, Fully
   Tuned.  I personally would try to get a racing body with this one.

   US Versus Japan: Mitsubishi GTO TwinTurbo/MR or Mitsubishi FTO
   LM, Nissan GTR

   Japan Versus UK: Mitsubishi GTO TwinTurbo/MR, Mitsubishi FTO LM,
   TVR Cerbera LM, Nissan Skyline GTR

   US Versus UK: TVR Cerbera LM, TVR Cerbera, Dodge Viper

   Commercial Car Championships: Dodge Viper GTS/RT-10 (Don't do
   anything to it) or the Rarity from the IA License Tests.

   Heavily Tuned Championships: Heavily Tuned Nissan Skyline GT-R
   (No Racing Bodies).  This is the hardest race to win on because
   you can't bring along your big-daddy racing cars to this one, which
   is a sad moment!

   Megaspeed: Nissan Skyline GT-R V-Spec or Mitsubishi GTO
   Twinturbo/MR fully fiddled for speeds of at least 245 mph

   Grand Valley Endurance: Mitsubishi FTO LM

   Special Stage Route 11 Endurance: Mitsubishi FTO LM

   Special Stage Route 11 Reverse Endurance: Heavily Tuned Nissan
   Skyline GT-R (No Racing Bodies).  This is another difficult race to
   win.  Definitely configure your car for handling here.

Q: I can't get past License A-4!

A: This is one of the game's toughest tests in the Simulation Mode. The
   key in this license test is to corner through bad turns without blatant
   slowdown. The Nissan Skyline GT-R VSpec isn't an easy car to use so
   this track may require use of Manual Transmission. 

   At the starting line, you want to cut through the apex and stay inside
   all the way at full speed. Slow down ahead of time from the outside
   before the first sharp turn and don't brake too hard. Cut the apex of
   the sharp turn and use short taps of the gas to buffer the cornering.
   If you have to slow down, just use short taps of the pedal. At the
   final major turn, you want to be at the outside and then just use the
   gas pedal. Cut the apex. Try to keep a smooth line all the way so
   that you don't lose speed from sliding through the turn. This test
   takes a lot of getting used to so don't get pissed if you can't pass it
   your first couple of times. This test mainly sees how competent of a
   driver you are rather than on speed.

   Be sure to pay attention to my Gran Turismo A-Class License Guide as
   it has some rough hypothesis on this cheap test!

Q: Tell me the eligible cars for the featherweight championships!

A: The eligible cars are as follows:

   * Toyota Starlet Glanza V
   * Toyota Corolla Levin BZG
   * Toyota Sprinter Trueno BZG
   * Toyota AE86 Corolla Levin GT-APEX
   * Toyota AE86 Sprinter Trueno GT-APEX
   * Mitsubishi FTO 1994 GR
   * Mitsubishi FTO 1994 GPX
   * Mitsubishi FTO GPX
   * Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R
   * Mitsubishi Mirage Asti RX
   * Mitsubishi Mirage 1992 Cyborg R
   * Acura Integra GS-R
   * Acura Integra Type R
   * Honda Civic Sedan
   * Honda Civic Racer
   * Honda Civic 3-Door
   * Honda Civic Del Sol S
   * Honda Civic Del Sol Si
   * Honda Civic 1991 CR-X Si
   * Honda Civic 1993 3-Door
   * Honda Civic 1993 Sedan
   * Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster 1989 Normal
   * Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster 1990 V-Special
   * Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster 1992 S-Special
   * Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster Normal
   * Miata Eunos Roadster V-Special
   * Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster S-Special
   * Mazda Demio GL-X
   * Mazda Demio GL
   * Mazda Demio LX G-Package
   * Mazda Demio A-Spec.

   All cars (with the exception of the Demio A-Spec) are shown on your
   GT Manual and Instruction Book.

Q: I can't get past License Test B-3!!!

A: It's time for the real fight. This test is possibly the toughest test
   among the B-Class License Tests. Since the Honda Civic Del Sol
   doesn't have lively acceleration and excellent speed, your best bet is
   to stay at the right side of the track and try to slow down ahead of
   time. Don't use the brakes since you may blatantly slow down. Use
   short taps of the Gas to level around the apex and make sure that
   you keep a smooth driving line so that you don't lose too much speed.
   I highly recommend using the Manual Transmission for this track. 

Q: I CAN'T PASS A SINGLE IA-LICENSE TEST!!!

A: All of these IA-Class License Tests are set on the Time Trials,
   requiring you to utilize just about everything you learned from the
   B and A Class Events. If for any reason you can't master any of the
   IA-License Tests, then here are the solutions: 

   1. Try attempting on all of the first seven License Tests. If
      for any reason you can't pass any of the seven license
      tests, then just exit out of the IA License Tests and save
      your progress to your Memory Card. 

   2. The best way to know how to use the Dodge Viper GTS
      Coupe is to throw the Dodge Viper GTS Coupe on the
      Commercial Car Championships. Buy a Viper GTS Coupe
      and don't do anything to it. Not only this is a great way
      to get used to the Viper GTS Coupe, but it's also a great
      way to earn some cold hard cash.

   3. Try to buy a TVR Griffith and don't do anything to it. Test
      the TVR Griffith through the "freelance" Time Trial Runs
      and see how good you are with the Griffith. You may
      need to practice with the TVR through the Sunday Cup a
      few times to get used to it.

   4. I personally would try to get used to a car with at least
      500 Horsepower. There are plenty of Racing Models that
      has lots of horses under the hood. Also, try to get used
      to a fully-tuned, racing modified Nissan Skyline GT-R or a
      Mitsubishi GTO TwinTurbo/MR.

   5. I personally would participate in any of these A-Class
      Series: All International Competition Series, GT Cup, and
      the Commecial Car Series. Also, try to use a Rear-Drive
      Racing Car so that you can get used to the Rear-Drive
      Cars a lot better.

Q: Please tell me what the cheats are.

A: I'll make this clear: THERE ARE NO CHEAT CODES IN GRAN TURISMO!!!!
   Sony did a good job creating a game that has NO CHEAT CODES
   whatsoever. Cheat codes ONLY RUIN REPLAY VALUE so be it. PLEASE DO
   NOT BEG ME FOR ANY MORE GRAN TURISMO/GRAN TURISMO 2 CHEAT CODES
   THROUGH E-MAIL ANYMORE!!! I'm getting sick and tired of
   anybody begging me for any cheat codes!!!! If you EVEN DARE
   ask me for any cheat codes for Gran Turismo or Gran Turismo 2,
   then I will assume you spamming me. 

Q: What do you mean by "Castrolizing" the car?

A: I use the term "Castrolize" as a classification when you tune up
   your car to the maximum possible levels.  This means maxing-out the
   brakes, gearshaft, horsepower, and all other attributes of the car.
   I'll leave the decision between weight reduction and racing body up
   to you, though.

Q: When are you going to create an FAQ for Gran Turismo 2 for the Play
   Station?

A: I may not be able to do so because my sights are in both the Play
   Station 2 and the Sega Dreamcast.  More likely I'm looking forward
   towards the PS2 version of Gran Turismo 2, which has smoother animation
   than the PSX versions of GT and GT2 combined.  However, _if I do_ get
   my hands on GT2, then I might consider creating a License guide for
   it.  However, I _WILL NOT_ use any resources like I did the last time
   as I have plans to be original for GT2 if for any reason I get my
   copy.

========================================================================
THE DO'S AND DONT'S

***AN IMPORTANT RANT FROM THE FAQ AUTHOR***

AS YOU SHOULD HAVE NOTICED FROM MY PREVIOUS WORKS, I WILL _NOT_ BE
ACCEPTING ANY E-MAILS FROM ANY WEBMASTER WHO SEEKS TO PLACE THIS FILE
ON THEIR OWN WEBSITE REGARDLESS OF THE CAUSE.  THIS IS BECAUSE THERE
ARE TOO MANY SITES THAT _STILL_ HAS THE OUTDATED VERSION OF MY WORKS
AND I REALLY HATE TO SEE IT LURKING AROUND THE INTERNET.  THE REASON
WHY I HAVE TO RESTRICT THE AMOUNT OF WEBSITES THAT CAN MIRROR MY WORKS
IS BECAUSE I WANT TO KEEP MY WORKS CURRENT AND UP-TO-DATE.  ANY MORE
E-MAILS REQUESTING PERMISSION TO MIRROR THIS FILE _WILL_ BE FILTERED.
THE ONLY SITES THAT HAVE MY SEAL OF APPROVAL TO MIRROR MY WORKS ARE
THE SITES LISTED IN THE COPYRIGHT INFORMATION IN THE BEGINNING OF
EVERY OF MY WORKS.

IF FOR ANY REASON YOU _DO_ MIRROR ANY OF MY WORKS ON YOUR OWN WEBSITE
WITHOUT MY SEAL OF APPROVAL, INSTANT LEGAL ACTION WILL BE TAKEN
IMMEDIATELY.  I APPRECIATE YOUR COOPERATION IN THIS MATTER AND AGAIN,
THE ANSWER WILL _ALWAYS_ BE NO IF FOR ANY REASON IF YOU WANT TO PLACE
THIS FILE INSIDE YOUR WEBSITE REGARDLESS OF THE CAUSE AND WHETHER THE
CONTENT FROM ANY OF MY WORKS IS EITHER GOOD OR BAD.

THIS HAS BEEN MY POLICY EVER SINCE I HAVE STARTED TO RESTRICT THE
AMOUNT OF SITES THAT ARE PERMITTED TO MIRROR MY WORKS AND IT WILL
ALWAYS BE.

Note: This notice is derived on Brett Nemesis Franklin's Crazy Taxi
FAQ for the Sega Dreamcast although there has been some variations to
make this one more severe.

Again, this file can only show up on the following addresses:

* Verasnaship Interactive, http://www.verasnaship.net
* GameFAQs, http://www.gamefaqs.com
* Secrets of the Game Sages, http://www.gamesages.com
* Cheat Code Central, http://www.cheatcc.com
* Game Shark Code Creators Club, http://www.cmgsccc.com

If you find this FAQ is AT ANY OTHER SITE OTHER THAN THE LISTED ABOVE,
THEN IT IS AN ILLEGAL COPY.  Please notify and/or warn me about this
as soon as you can.  Thank you.

In addition, only myself (Mark Kim, Vesther Fauransy) and Gamers.COM
(http://www.gamers.com, Joel, please notify me of any address changes
if you are reading this) are the ONLY ones who can HTMLize this file
(with bug busts and grammar changes permitted).

Why?  Because these sites are the only ones that keep all original work
updated and up-to-date.

You can always get the latest version at my website (Verasnaship
Interactive at http://www.verasnaship.net) since I run that website
and I always post them instantly right at my website first.

GameFAQs does a good job keeping the files up-to-date at all times and
is regarded as the most visited "stable" for FAQ-related walkthroughs,
original work, and the like.

Cheat Code Central does a good job in keeping the FAQs fresh, original,
free, and "in one piece".  They instantly update all FAQs without having
me notify them.  Besides fresh and updated FAQs, Cheat Code Central ALSO
has cheat codes for those who live ONLY for cheat codes *yuck*.

Secrets of the Game Sages is a "Code-related" partner to GameFAQs
since both GameFAQs and Secrets of the Game Sages share the same
information, links, and tricks-to-date.

Game Shark Code Creators Club is a Game Shark site run under the Code
Master to provide up-to-date Game Shark Codes and is a highly visited
Game Shark site.

From time-to-time, I might elect to do PDFs on certain games.  You
can always get the latest version at Verasnaship Interactive first
(again, http://www.verasnaship.net).  For the first time (From the
date of February 13, 2000 and from now on), GameFAQs has MY SEAL
OF APPROVAL to mirror SOME PDFs on my site!

Rules:

* DO NOT place this file in your web site directly.  Only the five
  aforementioned sites have an exclusive right to mirror this file.

* You can make a link to my FAQ Library Page.  The only rules that
  I would like to enforce is that you link ONLY to an HTML or an
  Interactive Web Page.  The link to this page is:

  - http://www.verasnaship.net/text/arcade.html

* If you are planning to link to the six other sites that I have
  mentioned on this reminder, then you are to be advised that
  your linking rights are heavily limited as foretold on the
  webmaster's fine prints (depending on where you plan to make
  your link to).  If I'm too vague on this, then please visit
  the following URL to see why more and more webmasters are
  restricting links:

  = http://www.templetons.com/brad/linkright.html (Brad Templeton's
    Linking Rights Essay).

========================================================================
REFERENCES OF THIS FAQ

NO GT FAQ can be complete without giving "hard credit" for those who
helped me out while I was still green on this game.  These people/sites
are:

*  Jaz Rignall (http://www.psmonline.com)
*  GameFAQs.com (http://www.gamefaqs.com)
*  Mousse Lee
*  Mystery Rhee (http://mit.edu/mystery/www/gtfaq.txt)
*  Sam Davis
*  Fukomoto Atsushi (http://www.imasy.or.jp/~fukumoto/gt/)
*  Secrets of the Sega Sages (http://www.segasages.com)
*  Imagine Games Network (http://www.imaginegames.com)

========================================================================
SUGGESTING SUGGESTIONS AND OTHER TRALALA

Sending UCE to any of the mailboxes that I have is not tolerated.
Period.  I report any incidence of spamming by checking the header on
where you originated the message at and then report the incidence to
the server you originated your message at (which is more likely to get
you in deep trouble) or I can just slam you by sending complaints to
the following: The server you originated the message at, to your
provider, or possibly the Free-Mail Service that you use.  Don't spam
me.  It's not worth it.

In addition, I WILL _NO LONGER_ TOLERATE ANY E-MAIL ASKING ME FOR ANY
CHEATS COMPATIBLE FOR GRAN TURISMO.  If you even dare ask me for any
cheat codes for GT, then I will assume that you are spamming.

See http://spam.abuse.net to see why it's bad.

========================================================================
SOME RANTS

After having to winder around the International A Class License tests,
I managed to get my IA-Class License and saved this progress on my
Memory Card.  This is good because I don't want to go through the
trouble of having to get my license once again.  It may be hard to get
your IA License but once you get it, then it's worth the effort of
getting it.

When I read one of GameFan's magazines (Commercial Magazines now suck
these days, now that you can get hardcore strategies on the Internet
for free), I've realized that there is NO CHEAT CODES listed for Gran
Turismo.  Be it.  There is no cheat codes for Gran Turismo.  Sony will
not create any cheat codes for any game that they might publish or
develop and never will.  Cheat Codes only spoil replay value, and that's
the bottom line!

========================================================================
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

*  Jaz Rignall for being the standard example of Gran Turismo Domination
   and being the wiz in Gran Turismo.  Read his Gran Turismo Guide at
   http://www.psmonline.com.

*  Sony and Polyphony Digital for creating the best PlayStation Game in
   the market ever yet.

*  Toyota, Honda, Acura, Nissan, Mitsubishi, Mazda, Subaru, Chrysler,
   General Motors, TVR, and Aston Martin for permitting Sony to portray
   their cars in Gran Turismo.

*  Fukomoto Atsushi, Sam Davis, Mousse Lee, and Mystery Rhee for being
   one of the many first FAQ Authors to produce a Gran Turismo FAQ.

*  Secrets of the Sega Sages for secrets regarding about winning the
   Commercial Car Race.

*  Imagine Games Network for accepting Sega Sages and GameFAQs.com as
   IGN Affiliates.

*  Tigeraid (John Culbert) for using my Gran Turismo Documents as a basis
   for creating his own compendium.

*  Joel Downs for creating HTMLized versions of my Gran Turismo Documents
   and for days of e-mail communication.

*  GameFAQs for being the largest stable of original, fresh work.

*  Chris MacDonald/Kao Megura for being the first 5MB FAQ Author.

*  Jason Lewis for the strategies using Rear-Drive Cars.

** END OF DOCUMENT **

Unpublished Work (tm) and (c) by Mark Kim.  All Rights Reserved
Gran Turismo: (tm) and (c) by Sony Computer Entertainment.  Developed
by Polyphony Digital.  All the cars, images, their likelinesses, and
other real-life car-related events are (tm) and (c) of their respective
owners.