M-O-N-S-T-E-R   R-A-N-C-H-E-R   2   A-D-V-A-N-C-E-D   F-A-Q    V-1.2






By 2cool2live (tmrr2@hotmail.com, http://mrrealm.monster-rancher.com)
If you like this FAQ, you'll love my site (Doncha love shameless plugs? ;-)
Oh, by the way, my site is down right now, FTP troubles and all, so if it 
doesn't work, don't worry, try back in a few hours or a day and I should have 
things straightened out.

Monster Rancher 2 Raising/Advanced Info FAQ-
The easy way to beat Most, Poritoka, Hammed, Akirel, or any other weakling 
compared to your soon-to-be champion monster.
You'll be walking over them, I can almost guarentee it.  I did with 2 monsters 
to date, and I've done this with about 5 monsters (Some of em aren't finished 
being raised).

Also, this information you will find, is almost impossible to find without 
PLENTY of research, which me and some friends have done over the past few 
months.

TABLE OF CONTENTS:
1. The 2cool Raising Method
2. Monster Lifespans
3. Stat Aquisition
4. Advanced Item List
5. All sorts of other miscellaneous info

Oh yeah, pretty much all of the information later in this FAQ was discovered by 
Dark Phoenix and RNA, but I have added to it and put in some facts/theories of 
my own.  Thank you to you guys.


FOREWORD:
I have been recieving lots of the following questions.  I will answer them here 
to save myself some stress.

Become an IMA official:
That means the monster on the disc, you have not yet obtained.  Take Dragon for 
instance.  You can't get it off a CD until you battle Lagirus for the Dragon 
Tusk.  It's the same with every other monster, except the ones that you can get 
off without meeting special requirements, like Zuum or Mocchi.

What the God Slate does:
Nothing.  It's left over from MF (Monster Farm, the Japanese version)


I won't answer any questions about how to get monsters, how to get certain 
items, etc, because those are answered in almost every other MR2 faq out there.  
This will expand to show how to get them, but I put first things first and work 
on the advanced part.

I do appreciate submissions if you use my method, and charts and lists and 
stuff, but CD Lists won't get listed here, and I know almost EVERY 
tip/trick/cheat there was about this game, so save both you and me some time and 
remember, I know almost everything about Monster Rancher 2.



THE 2COOL RAISING METHOD

Well, I'm writing this because a lot of people that have bought Monster Rancher 
2, and find their monsters croaking as early as 2 or 3.  Well, you know how 
Pixies have short lifespans?  With this method, mine lived 8 years, had 6 
techniques, bested Most with Lightning, a D/A/E/E move, which took over 650 HP 
from him.  I had an Ape right off a CD live 9 years and have an average of 700 
in all stats.  Anyway, this method is for anybody.  It's a little expensive, but 
works with almost ANY monster, but works best with long living ones.  The other 
information here will help ANY raiser/battler/breeder, newbie or master.

Here are some examples:
Chloeth:
Pixie/Wracky
Life:         350
Power:        150
Intelligence: 999
Skill:        999
Speed:        999
Defense:      500
It lived 8 years.  It beat Most.  Not bad for a Pixie, eh?  It also used a 
Silver Peach it earned.

Tsazenth:
Durahan/Dragon
Life:         600
Power:        850
Intelligence:  75
Skill:        500
Speed:         25
Defense:      650
It lived 6 years, it wasn't my best example since short-lived Dragon was it's 
sub-breed.

Ametheus:
Henger/Metalner
Life:         500
Power:        850
Intelligence: 150
Skill:        900
Speed:        200
Defense:      500
It lived 6 years, and was the first to beat Legends Cup.  It was one of the 
earlier monsters I did when I was still making my raising guide, but nonetheless 
it kicked total butt.

And the pride of my little collection...

Honky-Tonk:
Ape/Plant
Life:         900
Power:        900
Intelligence: 300
Skill:        700
Speed:        700
Defense:      999

It lived 9 YEARS!  It beat Poritoka, it beat the Major 4 twice, it had 100 wins, 
and it was 1st generation right off a CD!  The power of the 2cool raising 
method!

Monsters other people have raised:

Tank:
Golem/Zuum
Life:         550
Power:        850
Int:          100
Ski:          200
Spd:          100
Def:          450
It lived 5 years 3 months.  It got to A class but couldn't pass since Skill 
wasn't high enough to hit Kitty, but it is still a great example.


Anyway, how do you get a monster like this for YOU?
It's a schedule of training and item usage, which lets you get in a lot more 
training without making it too tired or stressed, and keeping it alive for the 
max amount of time.

Key:
HD is   Heavy Drill.  This includes Pull, Swim, Leap, and Meditate.

LD is   Light Drill.  Domino, Dodge, Shoot, Run, Study, and Endure.

Something/Something   Choose either depending on how your monster is doing, or 
your preference.

NO is   Nuts Oil.     It reduces Fatigue, you can buy it from the shop.

ML is   Mint Leaf.    It reduces stress, and since stress lowers your monster's 
lifespan,
these indirectly make it live longer.

ET is   Errantry.     A month of training, with a little less stat gain than a 
true Heavy Drill.  Costs $2000 ($1000 on discount) and has a chance of earning a 
new technique.  Increases Fatigue and stress a LOT, and you can't use items 
during it.

RT is   Rest.         If you don't know what this is, try playing Monster 
Rancher 2.  Takes a whole week but largely reduces Fatigue and Stress.

-- is   Anything.     Nothing, or anything you want it to have (Gold Peach, 
Silver Peach, etc).

[HD HD RT HD] is         A training schedule. The upper is drills/rest/errantry, 
and the lower is item using.
[NO NO -- --]

Some prelimenary guidelines:
I expect you to have at least SOME experience playing MR2.  This is not for 
total newbies, this is for people who's monsters are dying too quickly, or are 
living long enough but have horrible stats, and don't know what to do.
You will feed it a Tablet every month, but if you're VERY short on money, like 
below $1000, feed it Fish.
Try to pick good breeds.  Hengers live longer than Galis and have just as good 
moves and stats.
Now, you can pick most any monsters for this.  However, there are a few sub-
breeds you should use for this to work best, and to keep your monster alive for 
as long as possible.



Sub-breeds you should try to have (In order of most to least):

Power:
Golem
Durahan

Intelligence:
Wracky
Plant
Mock
Kato

Skill:
[Pow]
Durahan
Arrowhead
Baku

[Int]
Mocchi
Suezo

For example, instead of having a Golem/Golem, try to have a Golem/Durahan or 
Golem/Arrowhead.
Or instead of a Pixie/Joker, a Pixie/Wracky.



Anyway, this is the plan:


Birth         (Right after unlocking from a CD or after combining or buying from 
Market)
to 
Adolescence   (Getting 15 or more in it's best HD):

For a baby, what you'll want to do, is this raising schedule:
LD RT HD/LD LD
NO ML --    NO

What I would do, is use:
Run, Shoot, Rest, Shoot

That way, 2 fairly hard to raise stats will be boosted a bit by the time you 
reach Adolescence.

To check to see if your monster is old enough to raise the normal way yet, save 
your game, make it do it's best Hard Drill (For a Golem, Pull, for a Pixie, 
Meditate, etc) and if it gets a score below 15, reload, and then do as you were 
doing.  If it gets 15 or higher without a 'Great!' then you should go to the 
REAL raising process, where you can get up to 90 points a month.

Adolescence (Getting 15 or more in it's best HD)
to
Old Geezer  (Stat gain deteriorates)

HD HD/LD Rest HD
NO NO    ML   --

Let me explain what this does.

The Hard Drills give you as much training for your time as possible.  Try to 
check the list labeled Stat Aquisition at the bottom, which shows approximately 
how much each monster gets in each drill.  These Hard Drills increase Stress and 
Fatigue a LOT, so that's why you start using a lot more items.  You need Rest to 
maintain weight, fatigue, and keep stress down.  If your monster is still pretty 
young (Like under a year and a half) or life/skill isn't high enough, then you 
would probably want to replace the 2nd week with a Light drill.
The Nuts Oil and Mint Leaves are there simply because if they weren't, stress 
and fatigue would accumulate very quickly, and eventually take off a few months 
if not a year from your monster's life.

Just keep doing this.  You can battle as much as you want, and go on errantries, 
but make sure the errantries give you a technique or it's all a waste.

When your monster starts failing and getting worse stats, move to the next 
stage.

Old Geezer  (Stat gain deteriorates)
to
Death       (Monster falls and stops living and goes to Monster Heaven)

Don't raise your monster with drills anymore.  If you just got into this stage, 
you may raise a little bit and use errantries.

What you will do here, is get a Zuum or something from the market.  Make sure 
your monster is frozen.  Do something with this Zuum, it doesn't matter if it be 
drill, rest, or whatever.  Try to cut all costs possible.  No errantries and 
feed it Potatoes.  Check frequently for battles.  When you see one, freeze the 
Zuum the day before the battle, get the good monster out, rest it, battle it, 
rest it, and freeze.  Save often.  Keep doing this until your monster dies.  It 
will get very good stats from battling, and net you plenty of cash.




______
  |    |  |  ----     ___         ___   __
  |    |  |  |         |   |\  |  |    |  |
  |    |--|  ----      |   | \ |  --   |  |
  |    |  |  |         |   |  \|  |    |  |
  |    |  |  ----     _-_  |   |  |    |__|

The Info




APPROXIMATE MONSTER LIFESPANS

This table here shows APPROXIMATE monster lifespans. This is all relative, 
meaning that if you raised them all the EXACT same way and the EXACT things 
happened to all of them, how long each of them would live. However, long 
lifespan is never an excuse to raise a monster like there's no tomorrow, since I 
guarentee it'll die sooner than you think. A Dragon can live longer than a 
Wracky, in the hands of the right (or wrong) trainers.

Thank you to Dark Phoenix for spending all the time hacking MR2 in and out so we 
could have this.


Very Short   Short      Normal    Above Average    Very Long     Super Long 
              
Dragon       Pixie      Golem     ColorPandora     Kato          Wracky 
Gali         Centaur    Zuum      Durahan          Mock   
Joker        Beaclon    Zilla     Arrowhead        Plant   
Monol        Henger     Bajarl    Baku     
Naga         Tiger      Phoenix   Mew     
             Hopper     Gaboo     Ape     
             Hare       Suezo       
             Ghost      Metalner
             Undine     Jill
             Ducken     Mocchi
             Worm       Jell
                        Niton
                        



STAT AQUISITION

Here is a list of all monsters and their corresponding stat aquisitions in each 
category: LIF-POW-INT-SKI-SPD-DEF

This data was obtained from each of the 38 purebreeds. Each 1st gen purebreed 
was tested during their prime. For POW, INT, SPD, and DEF, a hard drill was 
used. For LIF and SKI, a light drill was used. Each drill was tested a number of 
times, in which an average was obtained. This average was used to rank each 
monster's stat aquisitions in their corresponding stats.

Here is the ranking guide:

POW-INT-SPD-DEF(during prime), 

[5] = 20pts in hard drill(primary stat only), [4] = 17-19pts, [3] = 14-16pts, 
[2] = 11-13pts, [1] = 8-10pts 

LIF-SKI(during prime), 

[5] = 14-15pts in light drill, [4] = 12-13pts, [3] = 10-11pts, [2] = 8-9pts, [1] 
= 5-7pts


Here is a compilation of all the 38 purebreeds and their stat aquisitions.
(ORDER: LIF-POW-INT-SKI-SPD-DEF):

01 Ape:          4-5-1-3-3-5

02 Arrowhead:    4-3-2-3-2-4

03 Bajarl:       3-5-2-4-3-3

04 Baku:         5-4-1-2-1-3

05 Beaclon:      4-5-1-1-2-5

06 Centaur:      3-3-5-5-3-3

07 Colorpandora: 5-2-2-3-4-5

08 Dragon:       3-5-5-3-2-3 

09 Ducken:       2-3-3-4-5-2

10 Durahan:      3-5-3-3-1-4

11 Gaboo:        5-5-1-1-5-5

12 Gali:         2-4-5-3-2-2

13 Ghost:        1-1-5-4-5-1

14 Golem:        3-5-3-1-1-4 

15 Hare:         3-5-1-2-5-3 

16 Henger:       3-4-4-5-4-2 

17 Hopper:       1-3-3-4-5-2

18 Jell:         3-3-5-4-2-3

19 Jill:         3-5-5-2-3-3 

20 Joker:        3-4-5-5-2-3

21 Kato:         1-1-5-3-5-2 

22 Metalner:     3-2-1-5-1-3 

23 Mew:          4-2-2-5-5-4 

24 Mocchi:       3-3-3-4-5-3 

25 Mock:         1-2-5-2-2-2 

26 Monol:        2-3-3-2-1-5

27 Naga:         3-5-1-4-2-3 

28 Niton:        3-2-2-2-2-5 

29 Phoenix:      3-1-5-3-3-4 

30 Pixie:        1-2-5-4-5-1 

31 Plant:        5-1-3-3-2-5

32 Suezo:        3-2-5-5-3-2 

33 Tiger:        1-2-4-5-4-1 

34 Undine:       3-1-5-5-5-3 

35 Worm:         5-3-3-3-1-5 

36 Wracky:       2-1-5-1-5-3 

37 Zilla:        4-5-2-1-2-4 

38 Zuum:         3-3-2-5-3-3 

Possible errors: 

1) After many tests, we started to notice that some monsters do better in some 
drills than others(ie, Dark phoenix noticed that a worm would get 20's in a swim 
drill but only 5-6's in an endure drill). Because, of this, the list above does 
not generalize the stat aquisition for each purebreed, rather, it shows the stat 
aquisition of the monsters in their highest stat-gaining drill.

2) Although encouraged, not many monsters were double-checked. This leads to a 
lesser accuracy of some breeds.

3) Some monsters showed higher stat aquisitions, than allowed by the ranking 
scheme(ie, a mock would get 20's in meditate even at childhood). It is suggested 
that a ranking scheme that allowed a range of 1 - 10 to be used. However, such a 
range would prove quite tedious when testing. The average gains of a certain 
drill would have to be pinpointed with much greater accuracy than a range of 1-
5.

Conclusion: 

This list only gives an idea of what each monster is good at. It is by no means, 
an accurate representation of a purebreed's real stat aquisition. However, it is 
much more accurate than having absolutely no data on any given monster's stat 
aquisitions. A combinational monster with a main breed and a different subbreed 
would have predictable stat aquisitions when analyzed using this list. Thus, 
this list can be generalized to all monsters in the game.





And here is the way to find out sub-breed stat aquisition, made by ME!:

Let's say a Monster Type named Goo is 5-5-5-5-5-5, and a Monster Type named Choo 
is 1-1-1-1-1-1. Combining them Goo first and Choo second, making Goo/Choo, the 
stats would be about 4-4-4-4-4-4, because since Goo is dominant, instead of an 
average 3, Goo's dominance adds 1. So average their stats, and if the dominant 
one has higher Pow, expect 1 more from pow, and if lower Pow, expect 1 less. 
Like a Golem/Hare would get about 2 in speed, since 5+1=6/2=3-1=2. 

  Durahan:     3    5  3    3  1    4 
+ Arrowhead:   4    3  2    3  2    4 
Divide by 2    7    8  5    6  3    8
               3.5  4  2.5  3  1.5  4 

Now, if you get *.5, if the primary monster has higher stat aquisition than the 
secondary, add .5 and if it's lower, subtract .5. If both have 3 or lower in a 
stat, subtract 1 or .5 if decimal, and it can only go as low as 1. If both 
monsters are equal in a stat, then the stat stays the same (like Skill stays 3 
in this case)

So-
Lorica's stats should be:
Lif: 4
Pow: 5
Int: 2
Ski: 3
Spd: 1
Def: 4

Durahan: 3-5-3-3-1-4 
Lorica:  4-5-2-3-1-4



ADVANCED ITEM LIST (With some information to help you understand them better)



Stress and Fatigue

Stress and Fatigue are rated on a scale of 0 - 100. 0 = no stress/fatigue 100 = 
max stress/fatigue. This value is altered by items that you give your monster, 
your actions while raising the monster, stable size, and certain items in your 
possession. Here are some scales to illustrate.

Stress

0 (no stress) <-------------------->100 (runaway)

Fatigue

0 (very well) <-------------------->100 (sickness)


The closer the stress and fatigue values are to the high end of the spectrum, 
the greater the danger of the monster running away/getting sick.


LOYALTY AND RAISING STYLE

Loyalty in Monster Rancher 2 is actually determined by two values, Spoil and 
Fear. Both of these values are rated from 0 - 100 and loyalty is calculated by 
determining the average of these two values. Raising style is also influenced by 
these values. The relationship of these two values determine your raising style, 
as shown by this chart.

Spoil much greater than Fear = Doting
Spoil somewhat greater than Fear = Fond
Spoil slightly greater than Fear = Soft
Spoil and Fear are roughly equal = Even
Fear slightly greater than Spoil = Strict
Fear somewhat greater than Spoil = Harsh
Fear much greater than Spoil = Spartan

Note that this dual loyalty system is why trainers that spoil their monsters 
have trouble getting their monster's loyalty much beyond 50.

(The following has been added by 2cool2live.  What I am about to say is only a 
theory, not proven)

I also think there is another meter.  Attitude.  If you spoil it with Apple 
Cakes, or punish it and constantly feed it Snakes, it will become either 
"spoiled" or "stricted".  Colt will say something when your monster becomes 
spoiled or stricted.  Both of these are generally unhealthy for your monster.  
Use an Apple Cake to reverse being stricted, and a Smoked Snake to reverse being 
spoiled.

(Now, back to the information)

FORM

I don't know much yet on how form affect your monster's performance ( I'll do 
some experiments on this in the future), but I do know that Form is rated on a 
scale of -100 to +100, illustrated here.

(-100, Skinny)<----------(0, Normal)---------->(+100, Plump)

NATURE

The monster's nature is also rated on a scale form -100 to +100, shown here.

(-100, Worst)<----------(0, Neutral)---------->(+100, Best)

This value, naturally, determines your monster's general attitude.


Now, the items:

Mango
-10 Fatigue, +1 Form, +1 Spoil, +1 Fear

Candy
-2 Stress, +10 Form, +1 Spoil

Smoked Snake
-10 Spoil, +20 Fear, -10 Form

Apple Cake
+10 Spoil, -5 Fear, +10 Form

Mint Leaf
-25 Stress, -5 Form, -2 Spoil

Powder
+5 Fatigue, -24 Form

Sweet Jelly
+5 Form, -33 Attitude (Like when Colt says "I think it's become too dependant on 
us", and this is not proven)

Sour Jelly
+5 Form, +33 Attitude (Like when Colt says "I think we've been too strict on it 
lately", and this is not proven)

Nuts Oil
-25 Fatigue, +1 Spoil, +1 Fear

Star Prune
+20 Fame, +5 Spoil, +1 Form

Half Eaten
+1 Form

Irritator
+5 Fatigue, +15 Stress, -1 Form

Griever
+5 Fatigue, -20 Stress, -1 Form

Bay Shrimp
+1 Form

Incense
-1 Stress

Shoes
-1 Stress

Rice Cracker
+1 Form

Olive Oil
-1 Stress, +1 Form

Kaleidoscope
-1 Stress

Torles Water
-1 Stress

Perfume 
-1 Stress

Stick
-1 Stress

Bone
+1 Form

Perfume Oil
-2 Stress, +5 Form

Wool Ball
-1 Stress

Cedar Log
-1 Stress

Pile of Meat
+12 Form

Soil
-1 Stress

Rock Candy
+1 Form

Dummy
-1 Stress

Ice of Papas
-1 Stress

Grease
-1 Stress

Parepare Tea
-1 Stress, +1 Form

Match
-1 Stress

Toothpick
-1 Stress

Playmate
-1 Stress

Polish
-1 Stress

Silk Cloth
-1 Stress

Disc Dish
+1 Form

Gramophone
-1 Stress

Steamed Bun
+2 Form

Razor Blade
-1 Stress

Ice Candy
+1 Form

Sun Lamp
-1 Stress

Silk Hat
-1 Stress

Half Cake (Only in Japanese version)
+5 Spoil, -2 Fear, +5 Form

Shaved Ice
-12 Stress, +1 Form

Sweet Potato
-5 Stress, +10 Form

Colart Tea
-5 Stress, +5 Form

Galoe Nut
-1 Form

Stick of Ice
-1 Stress

Clay Doll
-1 Stress

Mock Nut
+1 Form

Fish Bone
+1 Form

Colt's Cake
+15 Form




INSIDE MR2- MISCELLANEOUS INFO FROM THE GAME

Technique Chains
Sometimes, before going on an errantry, you may notice the Errantry man say "It 
must be quite difficult" or something of the like. Now, chances are 50 to 1 you 
won't gain a new technique if he says that. How do you change that?

Well, some people have suggested a term called Technique Chains, meaning this. 
Your Zuum just learned Flame Shot from the Mandy Errantry. You want it to learn 
Flame Ball. However, you can't get it because the errantry guy says "It must be 
quite difficult." How do you get rid of that and learn Flame Ball? Well, it's a 
theory that the people at Tecmo put in a way of keeping you from getting all the 
techniques at once. In order to "unlock" Flame Ball, you must either raise your 
intelligence (Since it's an intelligence move), or use Flame Shot a certain 
amount of times. How many times? Some people have suggested as many as 50. I'm 
thinking of something more along the lines of 20 times. After that, you're 
monster should be able to get it's next move from that errantry. Either that, or 
you need to raise the corresponding Stat, like Pow for the Mandy.  However, the
Defense errantry, Kawrea, may require you to raise a stat other than defense, or 
possibly multiple stats in order to gain the technique there.  Most techniques 
are not chained, and some monsters like Tiger have no chains.  Monol's moves are 
almost all chained.  Chained moves are almost always similar moves, take Pixie 
for example.  Ray to Megaray to Gigaray.  Another theory, is that a subtype of a 
monster can determine what skills it may, may not, or will be easier to get. For 
example, a Pixie/Hare can get 1-2 Punch. A Pixie/Tiger can get Lightning. A 
Pixie/Dragon can get Fire Breath. A Pixie/Kato gets Phantom Claw. A Pixie/Joker 
can get Death Final. All of these subtypes have those moves, like a Joker has 
Death Final. Some monsters seem to have a certain subtype to get techniques, or 
changing the order of them. Natures can affect the easiness of gaining a 
technique, or whether you get one at all. A happy, laughing face over a 
technique on the Monster Screen means your monster needs to be Best Natured to 
get that technique, or it can't. Evil looking eyes mean it has to be Worst 
Nature. All the Joker's techniques require it to be worst to get them. I 
personally don't know about how much of this works, like sub-type techniques, 
but we're all learning. I'll post it up here once I learn anything.

 

Raising Techniques, Peaches, Lifespans, Mint Leaves, Nuts Oil, Natures, and 
Tablets.
A lot of people have been discussing these lately. Azn Beast, which most of you 
should know, has formulated an famous raising guide to make your monsters live 
extra long and get better stats. I've made one too, which I like better, 
although I have yet to try Azn Beast's method. Anyway, I'll be discussing ways 
to lower Fatigue, Stress, and unhappiness, lengthen lifespan and peak (when your 
monster gets 18-20 on heavy drills), and to get higher stats.

I'm not going to post Azn's Method since I don't have his permission (yet) but I 
will be sure to try. As soon as mine has covered mostly all parts of raising, 
I'll post it.

The Silver and Golden Peaches both extend a monster's lifespan by about 3-8 
months for Silver, and 5-12 months for Gold. They aren't hard to get, on June 
2nd, if your monster is 6 years or older, you can compete in the Elder's Cup and 
get the Silver Peach if you win, and the Gold Peach can be found on the Parepare 
expedition. Both can be obtained infinite times (some people have gotten more 
than 1 Gold Peach on a single trip!) but each can only be fed to your monster 
once. Both peaches used on the same monster at the right times can extend their 
life by 1-3 years, and it's peak by 1.5-2.5 years. These are both very useful, 
sell for a lot, and are generally great to have on hand.

Now, there has been some controversy over Mint Leaves and Nuts Oil. Nuts Oil 
relieves a good portion of fatigue, while Mint Leaves slash off a huge chunk of 
stress. Many people use these in place of Rest, to get more training into their 
monsters life. Some people think Nuts Oil takes away a small part of lifespan. I 
disagree, since I have 2 monsters who have had over 170 Nuts Oils and are 5 
years old! Some people think the absence of Rest hurts, which I agree with, 
since Rest will either maintain or fatten your monster, as well reduce stress 
and fatigue.

Natures, whether your monster is good or bad, affect lifespan. Good natured 
monsters live longer than bad ones.

Tablets are another thing people have been talking about. Most monsters love 
them albeit their description saying they taste ill, they cost 500g, and can 
only be
bought one time at the beginning of the month to feed to your monster. They 
fatten your monster a slight bit, and take away almost as much stress as a Mint 
Leaf. Milk shouldn't be given, it's just a cheap (And un-beneficial) way to feed 
young monsters. Tablets are the most expensive food you can buy your monster, 
but are also seemingly benefical. Tablets, as their description says, are very 
healthy. So far, none of these theories have been set in stone, except for the 
Mint Leaves and Nuts Oil relieving Stress and fatigue, and that Mint Leaves 
don't decrease life, so there's still discoveries to be made to make your 
monster the best it can be.

 

Combining
I won't be discussing the simple side of combining. I'm going to tell you some 
things I bet you didn't know...
First off, combining for better stats. Some monsters naturally get very high 
stats when combined. Raise a Pixie/Mock and a Gali/Tiger. Combine them, and try 
to get a Dryad or and Angel. I did. I ended up with an Angel (Pixie/Gali) with 
480 in Int and 420 in Skill. Alone, those are 900 combined. It started with 4 
techniques, also.
Now, let me combine a Tiger and a Durahan, both of high stats and rank. I get 
mostly stats between 120 and 200. Now, when Dadge says "This combination is 
great, nothing should go wrong unless something weird happens." means that you 
should expect stats 400+ easily. "This combination is unsure." should yield 100-
200 in stats. Trust Dadge. Anyway, if you want to get plenty of techniques, have 
the monster with more techniques first. If you have a monster with 20 techniques 
second, and one with 2 first, you'll probably get 6 instead of 16. Also, if you 
want a monster to live long, try this experiment.

Raise a Plant, Kato, or Mock. Raise it in life, and try to feed it the Gold and 
Silver Peach as instructed above, raise it's life, and get it to live a long 
life, with Best Nature.
Raise any monster you like with a style like the Plant, Kato, or Mock, with 
peaches, raise stats of your choice.
Freeze them both.
Combine them both to get the breed of the 2nd monster you trained, or with a 
Plant/Mock/Kato sub-breed. Raise it well. It should life at LEAST 1 year longer 
than the other breed of the 2nd monster you trained.

Combining the right way, as well as peached parents, can give you much better 
lifespans.

Also, it seems that a monster that is 10th generation, meaning that you got 2 CD 
monsters, combined them, got 2 more, combined them, then combined the 2 monsters 
you have, the monster would be 3rd generation. Sorta like you're 1 generation 
older than your parents, but not older as in age.
Anyway, it seems that the higher a generation of a monster, who's parent were 
all trained, would live much longer than the same monster type off a CD.

Combining can be very useful, so use it wisely.

Also there are Disk Chips, items gained from expeditions or battle prizes, that 
are used as secret seasonings (Items used during combining to achieve a certain 
effect).
There are Plant Disk Chips, Golem Disk Chips, and every kind of Monster Disk 
Chips. They have 2 effects each. A unique one and one that raises the chance of 
getting that monster mainbreed when combining by about 5 each. Here are the 
unique results and selling prices, given to me by Zack Man:

Battle effects (Like Power or Anger)
Tiger: Will-                                                    Sells For: $500

Arrowhead: Guard -                                              Sells For: $500

Hare: Grit -                                                    Sells For: $500

Suezo: Ease -                                                   Sells For: $500

Gaboo: Fight -                                                  Sells For: $500

Mew: Hurry -                                                    Sells For: $1000

Dragon: Fury -                                                  Sells For: $2000

Bajarl: Vigor -                                                 Sells For: $1000


+1 on Errantries:
Ape: Parepare Err -                                             Sells For: $1000

Jill: Papas Err -                                               Sells For: $1500

Centaur: Mandy Err -                                            Sells For: $2000

Phoenix: Kawrea Err -                                           Sells For: $2000

Zilla: Torble Sea Err -                                         Sells For: $1500


+1 on Heavy Drills:
Kato Meditate -                                                 Sells For: $500

Wracky: Leap -                                                  Sells For: $1500

Beaclon: Pull -                                                 Sells For: $500

Niton: Swim -                                                   Sells For: $500



+1 on Light Drills:
Undine: Study -                                                 Sells For: $1000

Ghost: Dodge -                                                  Sells For: $1000

Durahan: Domino -                                               Sells For: $1500 

Jell: Endure -                                                  Sells For: $500

Henger: Shoot -                                                 Sells For: $1000

Zuum: Run -                                                     Sells For: $500



+50 starting stats:
Pixie: Int. +50 -                                               Sells For: $1000

Monol: Def. +50 -                                               Sells For: $500

Worm: Life +50 -                                                Sells For: $500

Naga: Skill +50 -                                               Sells For: $500

Golem: Pow. +50 -                                               Sells For: $500

Ducken: Spd. +50 -                                              Sells For: $1000


Miscellaneous:
Colorpandora: (Spoil +50) Starts Fond and with 50 loyalty-      Sells For: $500

Metalner: (Fear +50) Starts Harsh and with 50 loyalty-          Sells For: $1500

Gali: Nature +50 (Normal starting nature is 1 notch higher)-    Sells For: $1000

Joker: Nature -50 (Normal starting nature is 1 notch less)-     Sells For: $1500

Mock: Lifespan +10 -                                            Sells For: $2000

Plant: Lifespan +10 -                                           Sells For: $1500

Baku: Weight +50 (Normal starting weight is 1 notch higher)-    Sells For: $500

Hopper: Weight -50 (Normal starting weight is 1 notch less)-    Sells For: $500

Mocchi: Fame +50 -                                              Sells For: $ 500

 

Battles

Thank you to Baby Bonnie Hood from Monster-Rancher.com's message board for this 
information.

Power (You won't see its true abilities until it's cornered.) - Triggers when 
your monster is brought down to critical life. Your monster's attacks do more 
damage while triggered. Good-natured monsters have this.

Anger (It becomes easily enraged.) - Triggers when your monster gets hit. Your 
monster's guts regeneration becomes faster and his withering ability becomes 
stronger (any withering that his moves do is doubled) while triggered, but he 
also becomes easier to get hit. Bad-natured monsters have this, which means that 
a monster can't have both Power and Anger. Also, a Neutral-natured monster has 
neither Power nor Anger.

Ease (It seems confident.) - Triggers when your monster hits your opponent or 
when your opponent misses your monster. Your monster becomes harder to hit while 
triggered.

Guard (It seems to know how to endure hardships.) - Triggers when your monster 
gets hit. Attacks on your monster do less damage and your monster's guts 
regeneration becomes slightly faster.

Grit (Giving up is not in its nature.) - Triggers when your monster gets KOed. 
Regardless of how much damage your monster took when he got KOed, your monster 
will get back up with 1 Life remaining. A nice lifesaver.

Real (It seems to hide its true abilities.) - Triggers when your opponent is 
brought down to critical life. Guts regeneration really flies and your monster 
does more damage while triggered. When it wears off though, guts regeneration 
really slows down and your monster does less damage and takes more damage. This 
can either be a good thing or a bad thing.

Fury (It goes completely out of control when it becomes angry.) - Triggers when 
your monster gets hit. Guts regeneration and attack damage increases 
dramatically, but you lose control of your monster while triggered.

Fight (It's very passionate.) - Triggers when your opponent's guts is at 99. If 
your monster hits the opponent with an attack at that point, your monster's guts 
will instantly become 99.

Hurry (It never gives up until the last moment.) - Triggers at the last 10 
seconds of a match, I think. From what I hear, your monster moves faster while 
triggered, but I'm not sure...

Vigor (It tend to get elated easily.) - I don't know when this triggers or what 
it does.

Will (Its senses are very keen.) - Triggers when your monster's guts is at 99 
and when his Life percentage is equal to or less than your opponent's. When your 
monster attacks at that point, the guts consumed by the attack is doubled, but I 
don't notice anything else. It doesn't seem to do more damage or anything. Can 
anyone help me here?

Unity (They share the same mind, and are regarded as a single.) - I have 
absolutely no idea what this is. 



Well, I hope you've learned something from all of this.  You can contact me with 
the following:

Internet Name:    2cool2live
Website URL:      http://mrrealm.monster-rancher.com

I've removed the ways of contacting me because all I have are dumb questions 
which are answered on every other FAQ, and almost every Monster Rancher site in 
existence.

Copyright 2000 by 2cool2live.  None of this may be used without my, or the 
respectful owner's permission.  All names, such as Tiger, Hopper, Pixie, and 
Monster Rancher 2 are copyrighted by Tecmo.