Pipe Dreams 3d FAQ(PSX game)
version 1.0.0
copyright 2002 by Andrew Schultz schultza@earthlink.net

Please do not reproduce this FAQ without my consent. I worked a good 
deal on it. As of this writing I am not inclined to let any site besides 
GameFAQs use it. Most of my very old-school FAQs don't make profit so I 
don't mind shipping them out, but a PSX actually might. So I'd like to 
keep it with the site that opened up a whole new world of gaming to me. 
For now.

Current progress: FAQ is final, minus details. Strategy isn't totally 
specifically organized, but that is beyond my ken with my current other 
obligations.

    **** AD SPACE ****

My home page:

http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Exhibit/2762/

========================================

  1. INTRODUCTION

    1.1. GENERAL COMMENTS

    1.2. CONTROLS[THE MANUAL IS WRONG]

    1.3. OTHER MADDENING GAMEPLAY FEATURES

    1.4. IN-FAQ TERMINOLOGY

    1.5. LEDGER BASICS

  2. SHAPES

    2.1. STRAIGHT PIPES

    2.2. BENT PIPES

    2.3. ONE-WAY PIPES

  3. OTHER ENTITIES

  4. GENERAL STRATEGIES

    4.1. PUFFING YOURSELF UP

    4.2. THE QUICK THROWAWAY

    4.3. USING THE 'NEXT' FEATURE

    4.4. TAKING NOTICE OF ODDS

    4.5. LOOKING AHEAD

    4.6. HOLDING PATTERNS

    4.7. CUTTING YOUR LOSSES

    4.8. SHORING UP

    4.9. RACKING UP POINTS

    4.10. CROSSES

      4.10.1. TIGHT CURVES

      4.10.2. EXTENDED CURVES

    4.11. DEAD ENDS

      4.11.1. COMPUTER CREATED

      4.11.2. "USER ERRORS"

    4.12. A PAUSE FOR REFLECTION

    4.13. NOT UNLUCKY, JUST AN OVERSIGHT

  5. REGULAR SCORING

  6. END-OF-LEVEL BONUSES

  7. GAME MAP

  8. LEVEL BY LEVEL WALKTHROUGH

    8.1. BEACH ZONE

    8.2. AMAZON ZONE

    8.3. FIESTA ZONE

    8.4. ICE ZONE

    8.5. AQUARIUS ZONE

    8.6. SPACE CITY ZONE

    8.7. DESERT ZONE

    8.8. PIPE CITY ZONE

    8.9. ANTIPODES ZONE

    8.10. JUNGLE ZONE

    8.11. TWILIGHT ZONE

    8.12. TROPICAL ZONE

    8.13. TOMB ZONE

    8.14. MYSTIC ZONE

    8.15. RADIATION ZONE

    8.16. RUINED ZONE

    8.17. NORTH POLE

    8.18. SPACE ZONE

  9. SAVED GAME INFO

  10. HYPOTHETICAL QUESTIONS

    10.1 MOST CROSS BONUSES AT ONCE

    10.2 [THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY LEFT BLANK]

  11. VERSIONS/CREDITS

========================================

  1. INTRODUCTION

    1.1. GENERAL COMMENTS

  Well, well, well. Pipe Dreams 3d could have been really something but 
winds up as a minor and intriguing game. Too many bugs in the game play, 
too much waiting around, and annoying sound and the like(which you still 
need for an aid) make this a game you're lucky to get through and put to 
the side. Not to mention that the best way to get through the game 
involves a method that feels a bit like racketeering. There's a bit of 
chance involved in this game but on the whole once you learn generally 
that you can't be perfect and specifically what each board expects you 
to do, this game is much more manageable. Some of the abstract puzzles 
are nifty, but others seem too facile and revolve around you creating a 
waiting pattern. All in all this seems like a good game to write for 
community service for all the Apple/Commodore emulator images I've 
downloaded as I had to write an 'honest' FAQ for once, it was pretty 
high on the GameFAQs request list, and it also felt like, well, forced 
labor. I do feel absolved in my own mind now.

  But as for the game itself it is a simple concept, not quite Tetris 
simple or as Tetris mindlessly addictive but interesting nonetheless. 
The game starts on a checkerboard with a pipe facing one way. Your 
object is to build on that with an assortment of straight, curved or 
even cross pipes(give a bonus if you get something to flow both ways in 
it.) You also get a head start before stuff called Flooze comes out. If 
the Flooze pours where there is no pipe you lose it, and if you lose all 
your Flooze then you lose a life. Pipes may also disappear if Flooze has 
traveled through them a few times or on their own--isolated pipes tend 
to vanish more quickly. Your end-of-level bonus based on how much flooze 
you have left before it enters a drainhole(which usually appears after 
you accomplish a few tricks--on the first board you just have to 
survive) is the mainstay of your point total. You start out with a 
boring checkerboard but eventually there are special power-ups or items 
that allow you to make a square passable or even freeze the flooze.

  There are eighteen worlds in Pipe Dreams 3d, each with three boards, 
and each ten squares wide by seven tall. Once you've passed them you can 
save and return to solved worlds at any time to pump up your score. 
Sometimes a few worlds are lumped together on an island, and once you've 
solved a majority you can go to the next island. All the worlds are 
worth a look if only for the sense of accomplishment you get solving 
them. Sadly you cannot look into any scene you want after going through 
a level(even if you've passed that level, they don't give a demo mode--
it's not exactly cheating as the later scenes are much tougher than the 
first) or indeed even after you have completed the game. Would've been a 
nice feature even if the scenes still took forever to load--to play 
through the first(trivial) level makes it forever and a day.

  While not popular or smooth enough, this game is certainly addictive 
and frustrating on the higher levels(for which alone a FAQ may aid the 
frustrated puzzle-gamer) although in between there's a bit of a lull; my 
first game I scored under 1000 and my next one I scored 800000 once I 
knew what I was doing. And there are arbitrary levels that zap you the 
first time through. But some of the puzzles are rather well done. This, 
like CastleQuest, was good enough for an avid puzzle-gamer like me but 
probably not the mainstream.

  This walkthrough is for the easy and middle levels of the game. Things 
may be a lot worse on the hard version of the game but there are no 
clever thinking puzzles added to the mix; things just come at you 
quicker. So I imagine there are refinements, but I'm too tired to look 
into them. I just wanted to write a walkthrough that would help people 
get a potentially annoying game off their chests; it's like a bad song 
you can't get out of your head.

    1.2. CONTROLS[THE MANUAL IS WRONG]

  You want to push the (circle/triangle) key to speed up the flooze; it 
revs up to a maximum speed pretty quickly. This ability is necessary to 
complete the game. The manual I have says that you have to push the 
square button and hold it.

  The colors of the diamonds are also wrong, and that is detailed below.

Red: reversal
Black: invisible then blinking(you're still notified of stuff you pick 
up)
Blue: slow down
Yellow: speed up
White: freeze

    1.3. OTHER MADDENING GAMEPLAY FEATURES

  Often you will fill a square with a piece of pipe and appear to catch 
the last of the flooze but--OOPS. It sinks anyway, leaving the computer 
saying 'Tough luck for you, bub.' It's happened to me just as I was 
putting the finishing touches on the final North Pole scene, so you have 
my sympathy.

  I also hate how it makes you push the 'accept' button after a game 
over. 'Yeah, I accept how chance screwed me out of a fair shot at 
solving the board.'

  The game forces you to keep the sound up because you can't easily 
determine graphically(until it's too late) whether you've been able to 
place a piece when you move quickly. Sure, there's always the vibrating 
controller, but that is annoying, too.

  It's also a bit harsh on you that if you move too quickly and press 
the button(easy mode) you'll wind up not being able to place a piece. If 
you wait too little and push the button again, you'll get the same 
noise/rebuke. I think the game should provide mercy after a while.

  The game also has a demo for the relatively easy levels, which would 
be nice if they were a bit more difficult. Although I suppose it can't 
exactly give spoilers for the tough ones, the demo shows the solution. 
Couldn't it just work partway?

  You can't even try the later scenes in a solved level first. Why? 
After all, you've already solved the level, and it's not like the later 
scenes are easier.

    1.4. IN-FAQ TERMINOLOGY

--bricks: I mean pipes. A brain-typo. Sorry there...Tetris still 
overshadows this game in my mind for some reason. I may also use the 
word 'tubes.'
--snake: I mean the flooze. It's another brain-typo. Snake Byte(Apple 
game,) White Lightning(Apple again) and Hustler(TRS-80) were games from 
my youth that cause me to think of things running around a board as 
snakes.
--dump squares: squares you reserve for dropping junk
--blocks(block squares): squares where you can't place anything(but can 
bomb) which are raised slightly above the regular board in 3-d 
perspective
--void squares: squares where you can't place anything and which are 
depressed, or lower than the regular board
--junk: pieces you don't want but need to ditch quickly while you're 
waiting for one you do want
--tail: the end of the flooze that is not leading
--tight cross loop: this is for when you make a pipe path loop quickly 
around itself
--neighbor: a piece of pipe on a square next to another one, positioned 
such that flooze will flow through one and then the other
--circle: not really a circle, but pipes created so the flooze will fall 
in a rectangle and eventually return to where it started, going in the 
same direction it started
--sometimes I will say that there is only one formation to get through a 
maze. There may be technically two as a four-way, or cross, pipe. But 
you know what I mean. In the case where you need just a straight pipe, 
you can use either entity in the right square. However, when I indicate 
a four-way pipe, that is what you need.
--directional abbreviations: D=down, L=left, R=right, U=up. 2L means 2 
squares left, etc.
--putting a curve in a path: when you have four curvey pipes displacing 
you the same as two straight pipes.
--that ****ed bong: the loser on the freeze-screen for when you load a 
level.

  Straight pipes

... ...
XXX XXX
... ...

  Curved pipes

... ...
.XX XX.
.X. .X.

.X. .X.
XX. .XX
... ...

    1.5. LEDGER BASICS

  Below is a ledger for the text maps I will use. It should be pretty 
intuitive, and I will mention special cases as they come up.

[space] = hole where flooze will fall through
      . = regular square
      X = block where you cannot place anything and flooze will fall out
      * = star to pick up(usually needed to solve level)
   ^v<> = where the flooze starts, with the direction indicated.
 /\^v<> = one way pipes. When these are shown, they will be clearly 
distinct from the start which may be manually labeled S and the 
direction explained.
      Y = yellow diamond
      B = blue diamond
      W = white diamond
      R = red diamond
      K = black diamond
      # = order in which you should traverse something(for spoiler 
ledgers)

  2. SHAPES

  For more detailed arguments we will show the shapes as three-by-three 
:

    2.1. STRAIGHT PIPES

  First there are the straight pipes. There are three of them.

  LR  UD  4W(four-way, or 'cross' pipes)
 ... .X. .X.
 XXX .X. XXX
 ... .X. .X.

  We will also define LR and 4W as 'lateral' pieces and UD and 4W as 
'vertical' pieces. 4W can function as LR or UD but never change the 
flooze's directional flow. Bonus points can be heavily based on clever 
use of 4W pipes.

  These pieces are also designated with -(LR,) |(UD) and +(4W) in text 
maps.

    2.2. BENT PIPES

  I also label the bent pipes as follows(where they come in and out:)

  UL  UR  DL  DR
 .X. .X. ... ...
 XX. .XX XX. .XX
 ... ... .X. .X.

    2.3. ONE-WAY PIPES

  There are also one-way pipes. Some are put in place to start a level, 
and others are given to you at random. These will use standard ASCII 
arrowing conventions(< > V ^) to describe their flow. I may also use 
them to indicate how water should flow, but I should tell you that when 
the time is right. ASCII abbreviations will be in the form of UL< for 
up-to-left or ^UL for left-to-up. The direction is next to the letter 
abbreviation and points in the way the pipe does. This seems to be the 
least confusing(I considered making one letter lower case but decided to 
splurge an extra byte for each description.)

  Here are pictures for the heck of it of the twelve possible one-way 
pipes, straight shapes first.

<LR LR> ^UD UDv
... ... .^. .v.
<<< >>> .^. .v.
... ... .^. .v.

  Now here are the diagonal shapes.

UR> ^UR UL< ^UL DR> vDR DL< vDL
.v. .^. .v. .^. ... ... ... ...
.X> .X< <X. >X. .X> .X< <X. >X.
... ... ... ... .^. .v. .^. .v.

  When to use which is a more complicated matter and will be discussed 
in detail(but certainly not exhaustively) in the next section.

  3. OTHER ENTITIES

  I've mentioned the diamonds in the above sections, although there are 
others that you need to be aware of.

  Sinkholes may be visible at the beginning of the level, or you may 
need to pick up various items to reveal them. They are where you want to 
direct the flooze's flow eventually.

  The weird little people on the side of the board follow your progress 
and cheer when something goes right(you solve the level, you grab a 
star/diamond/coin, make a cross, or you manage to reconstruct a pipeline 
after the flooze starts to fall out, or you get an extra guy) but get 
dejected when flooze starts to pour out.

  Watch out for blocks, which are raised slightly above the normal 
playing field, or wells, which are slightly greyed out. Either one will 
cost you flooze if you run into it.

  The starting gutter also cannot be replaced until all your flooze is 
out.

  4. GENERAL STRATEGIES

  Many of these general strategies overlap so I recommend reading 
everything as any one may tip off a useful method for you to remember.

    4.1. PUFFING YOURSELF UP

  The crudest way to push up your score is to play level one over and 
over again. It's easy enough and is the biggest point-getter; points are 
tabulated the same way for each level and they get tougher as they go 
on. It's an unfair aspect of the game that unfortunately you have to 
take advantage of. With some refinements you can score 250000 at a pop 
for each sequence of three scenes. However in a worst case you can start 
out a game with an extra guy(50000 points) which is especially handy 
when confronting levels that don't give you an extra man. The only 
trade-off seems to be the boredom that waiting around for levels to load 
incurs. Still, when you get to levels 15+, this can be a valuable way to 
boost your confidence and crossing skills while you guard against the 
whims of chance.

    4.2. THE QUICK THROWAWAY

  Don't hesitate to throw away pieces of pipe that you don't know what 
to do with. Obviously it is best to find a creative way to do 
something(i.e. think ahead to pieces of pipe you will need a certain 
place) but you don't want to waste too much time on that. If you can't 
find anything, simply dump a pipe on a square you won't be using. If 
those are all full, you can start to get rid of old pieces of pipe. 
However this second option takes a bit more time, and you need to wait 
after destroying each piece(the game has a short pause after you hit the 
X button which can be extended if you continually bash it) before moving 
on. Fortunately there's a finesse to make pieces of pipe in throwaway 
squares disappear as quickly as possible.

  If you are able to make a pipe not face any squares, so much the 
better. Usually you want pieces of pipe that you've organized to stay on 
the board as long as possible, but if you are throwing them away, you'd 
prefer they vanish and create an open square. Note that pieces of pipe 
that do not have neighbors disappear more quickly. So what you need to 
do is to put stuff at the edges first. Also note which edges are most 
likely to cause a certain piece to disappear. For instance, if you put a 
DL pipe in the DL corner, it would face the edge of the board and never 
have a neighbor. Similarly if you can place pieces of pipe that pour off 
the edge of the board, you are that much more likely to continue the 
downright un-neighborly behavior. Of course if there are raised squares 
you may want to have a pipe face into them as well. The less 
coordination among pipes you absolutely are not going to use, the 
better. It should mean less replacement explosions if you ever have to 
go into that area.

  Also, it may be good policy to "write over" linear pieces that you 
will use in the future with a cross piece if you can do nothing with the 
cross piece. That is because the cross piece is such a good neighbor and 
in this case you don't need it supporting others you'll throw away. Plus 
it may allow you to get a cross bonus in the long term.

    4.3. USING THE 'NEXT' FEATURE

  At all times you will see the next four pieces. It is paramount that 
you learn how to use this. On the most simplistic level it's nice to see 
if a piece you want is coming. If you have, for instance, three curves 
coming, you can probably create a crooked way instead of a straight 
way(below.) Also if you have a choice between two options of getting 
from point A to point B the Next feature may tell you which is most 
feasible with the current pieces in the queue. Also if there is one 
piece you need and it's not in the 'next' feature, you can keep dumping 
pieces until it appears. Then move over between pieces dumped(since you 
will have to wait some time to drop a piece anyway) before you drop the 
one right piece where you need it.

    4.4. TAKING NOTICE OF ODDS

  Often you'll need to connect two lengths of pipe together. It's easier 
to connect via a straight sequence. If the pipes' ends are kitty-corner 
then there is a 1/7 chance that you'll get the right piece to connect 
them.

  Note that there are three straight pieces and four bent pieces. On 
normal probability every one seems to be distributed equally. That means 
if you are waiting for a specific straight piece to put onto a puzzle 
there's a 2/7 chance you'll get it or a cross, i.e. you'll get it on 
your 3.5th turn. Often it may be advisable to use curved pieces as 
probability buffers for occasions where two straight pieces in a row 
might be the most logical case. Instead of pitching stuff away until you 
get two, try for four curvy pipes as seen below(contrasting diagrams.) 
This gives you 1) an extra chance to continue the flooze's flow and 2) 
extra time to plan ahead as the flooze has two more squares to travel 
through. Even if you start off doing things the crooked way you can 
probably place the right straight tube in an empty location and 
whichever way works first will be the way you do things. It's a small 
finesse but it can help you out, especially if you need to buy time and 
the pipe is intended to go in a circle.

  The straight way:

... ... ... ...
... ... ... ...
... ... ... ...

... ... ... ...
XXX XXX XXX XXX
... ... ... ...

  The crooked way:

... ... ... ...
... .XX XX. ...
... .X. .X. ...

... .X. .X. ...
XXX XX. .XX XXX
... ... ... ...

  Again, try to scheme for the crooked way.

  The extended crooked way is also nice although with such a small board 
it doesn't get too extended. Note that in the case above you have the DR 
and DL on top and the UR and UL on bottom. If you'd like to buy extra 
time then you can place a DR every two squares to the right of the 
original, and same for the UR and UL. This allows a straightforward 
planning ahead with curved pieces. Meanwhile you can reserve the 
straight pieces for a more important path you are trying to build that 
will help you get through the level and not just survive. If you can 
picture in your head what goes where it is serious progress.

    4.5. LOOKING AHEAD

  Planning ahead is important in Pipe Dreams. Often you'll want to 
consider the Next feature as well as the general layout of the board. 
While on the easy level you should have no problem getting enough 
straight pieces, on the harder levels you may need to rely on curved 
pieces to do your work. To wit:

... ...
... ...
... ...

... ...
... .XX
... .X.

... .X.
.XX XX.
.X. ...

  ...is less likely than...

... ...
... ...
... ...

... ...
.XX XXX
.X. ...

.X. ...
.X. ...
.X. ...

  However, if you need straight pipes for a specific place, you may want 
to put the curved pipes where it doesn't matter.

    4.6. HOLDING PATTERNS

  A big part of Pipe Dreams is getting the flooze to go around in 
circles while you plan what to do next or build on another side of the 
board. The clearest way to do this is to create a plain circular 
track(see below:)

... ... ... ...
.XX XXX XXX XX.
.X. ... ... .X.

.X. ... ... .X.
.X. ... ... .X.
.X. ... ... .X.

.X. ... ... .X.
.X. ... ... .X.
.X. ... ... .X.

.X. ... ... .X.
.XX XXX XXX XX.
... ... ... ...

  However this is not always practical and frequently you can squeeze a 
bit more time out of it(especially as running over a pipe twice causes 
it to disappear regardless of how it would stay up otherwise,) so here's 
a bit more effective track:

... ... ... ...
.XX XX. .XX XX.
.X. .X. .X. .X.

.X. .X. .X. .X.
.X. .XX XX. .X.
.X. ... ... .X.

.X. ... ... .X.
.X. ... ... .X.
.X. ... ... .X.

.X. ... ... .X.
.XX XXX XXX XX.
... ... ... ...

  Two more squares to cover!

  Then you may also want to reduce reliance on straight pieces when you 
can. That would make the following track a bit more desirable. If the 
right pieces come up in the 'next' on the left, you may want to deform 
the track a bit to buy some time in the immediate feature. If it's a 
long or wide track you can always bend out a bit later to achieve a 
result as just above.

... ... ... ...
... .XX XXX XX.
... .X. ... .X.

... .X. ... .X.
.XX XX. ... .X.
.X. ... ... .X.

.X. ... ... .X.
.X. ... ... .X.
.X. ... ... .X.

.X. ... ... .X.
.XX XXX XXX XX.
... ... ... ...

  Of course there may be a need to tack on a cross(warning: this is 
risky on a small track as you'll need to get exactly the right pieces. 
But the payoffs in time and points are greater than in the two tracks 
above.)

... ... ... ...
... .XX XXX XX.
... .X. ... .X.

... .X. ... .X.
.XX XXX XX. .X.
.X. .X. .X. .X.

.X. .X. .X. .X.
.X. .XX XX. .X.
.X. ... ... .X.

.X. ... ... .X.
.XX XXX XXX XX.
... ... ... ...

  Note this gives 16 squares to go through as opposed to 14 or 12. But 
you'll need to replace the cross, so it may be best to do this just 
before you're about to break out(in which case you should be close to 
done anyway and are more likely to get the x2 bonus for sucking flooze 
down the drain.)

  In general you'll want to make the track as wide as possible, giving 
you the most plan to time without having to rebuild. You may even want 
to make a small one and then work to increase it, possibly by slowly 
deforming it as indicated above.

  In addition you will want to keep track of the alternative path you're 
building. It may disappear if you leave it too long, so be sure to 
replenish it when necessary or at least to start it by adding 
connectable chunks of it when you can.

  Eventually you will have to cut yourself loose from the track. Be sure 
that you will only need to change one or two squares to enter the new 
path you've built. I often wait until I have a clear path to the 
sinkhole before switching a critical pipe. See below for an example, 
simplified to make the point concise.

... ... ... ... ...
.XX XXX X1. XXX XX.
.X. ... .X. ... .X.

.X. ... .X. ... .X.
.X. ... .X. ... .X.
.X. ... .X. ... .X.

.X. ... .X. ... .SI
.XX XXX XX. ... .NK
... ... ... ... ...

  The path to the sinkhole is fully set up. Put a DR in the 'next' bin 
and when the flooze is not on the square marked '1', change that square 
to advance to the next scene.


  If you are ever in doubt of being able to get through what you've 
built outside the track, keep circling on the track.

    4.7. CUTTING YOUR LOSSES

  It's going to happen; you're going to lose flooze. When you do, you 
just want to regroup and get going again as quickly as possible. How to 
do this? Well, first of all, if you don't have a piece to get you out of 
immediate danger, start sprinkling correct pieces around where the 
flooze is pouring out. For instance, having a UR piece in the situation 
below(flooze pouring out right from the UL square) may not seem helpful 
in the immediate future, but it could help prevent another quick 
catastrophe.

... ... ...
XXX .2. .3.
... ... ...

... ... ...
.4. .5. .6.
... ... ...

 If you have a DL piece in the 'next' then you may want to place the UR 
at 5. Otherwise you may want to place the UR at 6 if you have, for 
instance, a LR before a DL.

  You also don't want to jump from one dead-end to another. If for 
instance you have the situation below(flooze coming from the left:)

... ... .X.
XXX ... .X.
... ... .X.

... ... ...
... ... ...
... ... ...

  ...and a 4W and a DL coming up, use the 4W on the square DR of where 
the flooze is pouring out and then the DL. If you use the 4W as an 
immediate block you will have to suffer through losing some flooze in 
two spells(it will take time to replace the UD) but the DL is more 
useful with the 4W in two free squares.

  In general don't worry too much about one extended loss. If you must 
have a specific piece than you can probably ditch a lot before coming 
back.

    4.8. SHORING UP

  Often you'll be in a circle and stuff will get destroyed behind you. 
You don't always want to re-organize it as it was, but don't hesitate to 
junk pieces inside your circle, and don't feel you need to reconstruct 
your loop in the same order it was built, or even on the same squares. 
Keep in mind that, when creating a loop, you may need a lot of vertical 
and horizontal pieces. In general as a rule of thumb you will need to 
keep an eye on cross pieces. Let's assume that you are in the following 
cycle with the bottom and left destroyed:

... ... ...
.XX XXX XX.
.X. ... .X.

... ... .X.
.1. ... .X.
... ... .X.

... ... .X.
.2. ... .X.
... ... .X.

... ... .X.
.3. ... .X.
... ... .X.

... ... .X.
... .4. XX.
... ... ...

  If a cross comes along, where do you place it? If you place it at 4, 
you will need three vertical pieces--a bit of chance. Placing it at 1-3 
means you'll need two horizontal and one vertical piece, although a 
cross can be a good substitute for either. In general it is a good idea 
to keep

vertical pieces needed=horizontal pieces needed.

  As the board is 7x10 you will probably find yourself needing more 
horizontal pieces, so put the cross where a horizontal piece could go. 
But of course you need to adapt to the specific situation.

  In this case 3 or 2 would be the best square as if you run into an 
immediate string of bad luck then you want pieces you've placed 
correctly to be as close as possible to diminish the possibility of 
losing flooze. With a cross at 2 you may be able to use diagonal pieces 
as well as the straight path, but it may not be so easy to make a 
connected path.

    4.9. RACKING UP POINTS

  See 4.1, 'Puffing yourself up,' for the crudest way to go about this.

  A great way to rack up points is not to lose any flooze before the 
level ends. Another great way is to pick up all the spare coins you can 
find. However the subtlest way may be to create a cross that enters into 
the sinkhole and loop around into it quickly before you solve a level. 
This is covered below in 4.10.1. Sometimes a little detour after the 
quickest way out can be lucrative, especially on tough levels where 
you've just started a game and didn't want to pump up on level 1, but 
still, 50000 for an extra guy would be helpful when you take a crack at 
later levels.

    4.10. CROSSES

  Each time you find a way to pass through a cross piece in both 
directions, you get a temporary multiplier bonus of one for all non-
bonus points including when the flooze gets sucked down. In levels that 
are necessarily cross-heavy this can mean a huge bonus, but even if it 
doesn't, you can often use a cross to get a few extra points. It's best 
done just before the end of the level(although sometimes a sinkhole in 
the corner will preclude that a bit) but often you'll want to leave 
crosses open just in case you see a nice way to go for a little extra 
before you leave a scene. Try never to put a plain horizontal or 
vertical over a cross if you can help it. Also never waste a cross on 
the edge unless it's there specifically for circling around in tight 
quarters.

  If a level is too cramped, don't worry about crosses. Otherwise, try 
to get a cross in.

  Also note that if you cross over, say, a horizontal square, change it 
to a cross, and cross vertically, the computer won't be fooled, and you 
won't get your bonus.

      4.10.1. HORIZONTAL OR VERTICAL?

  This may sound simple, but I want to go over the obvious case of using 
several factors to determine where to place it, if given the choice 
between allowing a cross to function as a horizontal or vertical piece. 
See the example below:

... ... ...
XXX .1. XX.
... ... .X.

... ... ...
... ... .2.
... ... ...

... ... .X.
... ... .X.
... ... .X.

  Let's say your next piece is a cross. The flooze is coming from the UL 
and you need to decide where to put it. 1 or 2 look about the same(maybe 
1 buys a bit of time.) You'll want to look at what's next. If there is a 
LR piece above it, the LR can go in 1 and so you place the cross in 2. 
If there is a UD above it, place the cross in 1 as the UD can go in 2.

  This is relatively simple, but if you are not thinking you will 
overlook the possibility and just go for the quick fix. Much of the time 
you'll have a clearer choice dictated to you.

  See also 4.8 shoring up, which says that you want to, in general, use 
a cross as the straight piece most in demand. Combine it with looking in 
'next' to determine further where you should place it, but don't sweat 
it if you guess a bit wrong.

      4.10.2. TIGHT CURVES

  Tight curves work great in a pinch. They can help double your bonus 
score just before the end of the level and are often quite useful in 
working through narrow areas. On the later levels they may even be 
necessary. They also buy a bit of time. In the example below you get 
four extra squares if you can find the curves and cross pieces. For 
relatively simple curves where you already have a bit of extra time you 
can frequently use this method to gain more time and more points.

  In general tight curves are the easiest to figure out and plan 
initially, but you'll want to learn about extended curves or look for 
them later as you complete a level or feel blocked into a certain area 
by flooze traveling over pipes you can't replace.

... ... ...
... ... ...
... ... ...

... ... ...
... .XX XXX
... .X. ...

... .X. ...
... .X. ...
... .X. ...

  ...can become...

... ... ...
.XX XX. ...
.X. .X. ...

.X. ... ...
.XX XXX XXX
... .X. ...

... .X. ...
... .X. ...
... .X. ...

  Note that if we replace the right-hand square with a sinkhole we can 
finesse a bit to get a nice bonus at the end. If you're way ahead of the 
game and the flooze is nowhere near the end of the pipe, see if

... ... ...
... ... ...
... ... ...

... ... .SI
... .XX .NK
... .X. ...

... .X. ...
... .X. ...
... .X. ...

  ...can become...

... ... ...
.XX XX. ...
.X. .X. ...

.X. ... .SI
.XX XXX XNK
... .X. ...

... .X. ...
... .X. ...
... .X. ...

  It's a potential difference of 10000+ points if all your flooze is 
left.

      4.10.3. EXTENDED CURVES

  There are three sorts of extended curves: first, the type where you 
come back to something after a long time. Second, the type where you 
have several tight curves in a row. Third, the rarest, where you have a 
few tight curves in a grid.

  First, you may for instance put a cross next to a sinkhole to enter 
later. It's like the tight curve example above but a bit more delayed in 
the gratification.

... ... ... ... ...
.XX XXX XXX XX. ...
.X. ... ... .X. ...

.X. ... ... .X. ...
.X. ... ... .X. ...
.X. ... ... .X. ...

.X. ... ... .X. .SI
.XX XXX XXX XXX .NK
... ... ... .X. ...

... ... ... .X. ...
... ... .XX XX. ...
... ... .X. ... ...

... ... .X. ... ...
XXX XXX XX. ... ...
... ... ... ... ...

  Again, the basic premise is the same as above. Just be on the lookout 
for a cross near a sink and try to work your way to the part of the 
cross you haven't gone through yet.

  One level mandates that you put several tight curves in a row, another 
makes it quite lucrative to do so. The downside is that the crosses will 
be destroyed after you go through them, so if you are looping around, 
beware.

... ... ... ...
.XX XX. ... ...
.X. .X. ... ...

.X. .X. ... ...
.XX XXX XX. ...
... .X. .X. ...

... .X. .X. ...
... .XX XXX XXX
... ... .X. ...

... ... .X. ...
... ... .X. ...
... ... .X. ...

  A bit more elegant than the standard DR pipe to link the two straight 
pipes, you'll agree. Generally this is best done where you need several 
such structures, mirrored horizontally and vertically. That way you can 
use any curve you please in the process.

    4.11. DEAD ENDS

      4.11.1. COMPUTER CREATED

  In the later levels there will be places where you can get stuck. Be 
sure to be very careful before you go in them. Locate them and avoid 
them even if one has a star(the Peepo scene is an example--the star 
won't help you survive.) Also note that dead ends with red gems aren't 
really dead ends as you will reverse. Usually these dead ends are pretty 
obvious, but don't be suckered.

      4.11.2. "USER ERRORS"

  Occasionally you'll walk into a sort of combination of tricky part of 
the board combined with your putting the wrong piece down. For instance, 
if you ever get into this predicament below(assume the board edge is at 
the top,)

... ...
.XX XX.
.X. .X.

.X. ...
.XX XXX
... ...

  ...you'll have to wait quite a bit before you get a UR piece and use 
it to get out. Be sure to pave a way ahead in the meantime, and realize 
you will be sticking yourself with very little flooze once you get out 
of the trap.

  Whenever flooze pours off the board you usually get the previous piece 
of pipe killed and a chance to do things more right the next time. 
However, that is pretty costly, so directing flooze off the board--or 
just plain risking doing so--is something to avoid.

  Also, on the later levels, you may bomb a few squares and make your 
own dead ends, or they may appear after you've nabbed a few stars but 
not enough to get to a sinkhole. Be very wary of these!

    4.12. A PAUSE FOR REFLECTION

  While not strictly the nicest way to go about things, pushing the 
start button will cause a 'reset/continue/abort' to pop up(reset 
vanishes if you have one guy left, as it costs one guy and thus 
collapses into abort for practical purposes.) The board is dimmed, not 
completely replaced as in similar games(the original Pipe Dream or the 
poor cousing Crossroad Crisis.) You then have time to go about and plan 
and see what you need to do next. [Does 'next' disappear as well?]

    4.13. NOT UNLUCKY, JUST AN OVERSIGHT

  You can commit a lot of oversights in Pipe Dreams that are of a 
general nature but didn't fit anywhere above so I thought I'd list some 
of the more annoying ones below.

--Don't stand around doing nothing unless you've got a very good reason.
--Be sure that, with one-way pipes, everything is flowing the right way. 
If two arrows are pointed at each other in a path you want to use, 
correct one of them.
--If a piece of pipe has been sitting out for a while, glance briefly to 
see if it's still there.
--Remember that if you see a ! or know one is going to appear in 
advance, direct the flooze around it or accelerate around it.
--Remember that going quickly won't let you run over a pipe the same 
amount of times, especially if you are greedy and trying to chalk up a 
huge crossing bonus. It may help to run over a piece of pipe that's 
blinking and solidifying it, but if you are in a loop or close to an end 
where flooze may fall out, you're better off just reconstructing.
--If you are going in circles, be sure not to dump a pipe on the circle 
you're using.
--If you need to work past a tricky spot, make sure you work far enough 
ahead. Too often I've said 'Whew, finished that,' only to run into an 
even more insurmountable challenge.

  5. REGULAR SCORING

  You get 50, 100 or 150 points when the flooze reaches a new square 
with a piece of pipe it can flow through. Curved pieces get 100, Crosses 
get 150 and straight pieces(vertical) get 50, while straight(horizontal) 
get 150.

  Extra men at:
  50000
 100000
 250000
 500000
1000000
every subsequent half-million

(My high score is about 2400000, playing from the Beach Zone and moving 
up one level after winning the previous. I made it to level 16. I think 
I lost one guy before level 15, and that was due to complete 
carelessness.)

  6. END-OF-LEVEL BONUSES

  This is where you will get a steady staple of points. Although it is 
overshadowed on level 1 and the last levels, the numbers seem curious 
and unrelated so I thought I'd try to nail the formulas down.

  You get a lot of points for getting flooze sucked down the tube. A 
neat key here to extra points is to move quickly through a bunch of 
crosses before level's end. The points for the flooze getting sucked 
down the tube are multiplied as well although your bonus, sadly, isn't.

  You get 2000 points for each coin you've collected at the end of the 
level. There is no extra bonus for collecting all coins.

  You get 1000 points for each cross you've managed to send the flooze 
through both ways.

  At the end of the level you get a bonus for the amount of flooze left 
as well as the percent of pipes you placed that the flooze passes 
through. You can get a hundred percent on the first but I've never 
gotten over the high seventies on the second(except for the next-last 
scene, which is an anomaly) and will not strain myself trying to do so. 
It seems that if you put one pipe over another(even the same one) that 
will count as an unused pipe.

  In addition it may be physically impossible to get all the flooze on 
certain boards although there are certain relatively easy boards where 
this is such a huge boost. Given the sometimes pedantic nature of the 
game, perfect play *should* be rewarded. But you need to realize that 
often accidents will happen. And often losing a good deal of flooze 
early on can give you less to worry about.

  I haven't actually gotten all these percents; for instance I am really 
guessing at the 90% range as it's tough to have just a little flooze 
drip out, as well as the 0% range where it's hard to finagle just the 
tiniest bit left, but there is definite logic to every number. For 
instance, I assume that the increase in bonus for each percent you go up 
is nondecreasing. So for instance knowing the following:

42's bonus is 600
49's bonus is 950, change=350 per 7% or 50 per %
60's bonus is 1500, change=550 per 11% or 50 per %

Let f(x)=bonus for x%, g(x)=f(x+1)-f(x). Now g(42) <= 50. If g(x)>50 for 
x<49 then f(60)-f(49)>550. But if g(x)<50 for some x<49 then f(49)-
f(42)<350 (the rest are all <= 50.) So g(42)=...=g(48) = 50. If g(x) 
ever increases from 49..59 then f(x) > 50+...+50(11 times) = 550 so 
g(x)=50.

This applies generally to all numbers. But enough rough mathematical 
proofs, on to statistical tables.  Hope I didn't cause any calculus 
flashbacks there.

I've never gotten lower than 13% but there I figured 1) the difference 
was a multiple of 5 and 2)it was <= 10. So I said if x=# of % that add 5 
for a bonus, 5x+10(13-x)=80 or 130-5x=80, x=5.

A * means I've actually recorded this percent as a data point.

%  |Bonus|
---+-----+
  0|  n/a| difference starts at 5 here
  1|    5|
  2|   10|
  3|   15|
  4|   20|
  5|   25|
  6|   30|
  7|   35|
  8|   40|
  9|   45|
 10|   50| difference changes to 10 here
 11|   60|
 12|   70|
 13|   80|*
 14|   90|
 15|  100|
 16|  110|
 17|  120|
 18|  130|
 19|  140|
 20|  150| no change here
 21|  160|
 22|  170|
 23|  180|
 24|  190|
 25|  200|
 26|  210|
 27|  220|
 28|  230|
 29|  240|
 30|  250| difference changes to 25 here
 31|  275|
 32|  300|
 33|  325|*
 34|  350|
 35|  375|
 36|  400|
 37|  425|
 38|  450|*
 39|  475|
 40|  500| difference changes to 50 here
 41|  550|
 42|  600|
 43|  650|
 44|  700|
 45|  750|
 46|  800|
 47|  850|
 48|  900|
 49|  950|
 50| 1000| difference stays at 50 here
 51| 1050|
 52| 1100|
 53| 1150|
 54| 1200|
 55| 1250|
 56| 1300|
 57| 1350|
 58| 1400|
 59| 1450|
 60| 1500| difference changes to 100 here
 61| 1600|
 62| 1700|
 63| 1800|
 64| 1900|
 65| 2000|
 66| 2100|
 67| 2200|
 68| 2300|
 69| 2400|
 70| 2500| difference changes to 250 here
 71| 2750|*
 72| 3000|
 73| 3250|
 74| 3500|
 75| 3750|
 76| 4000|
 77| 4250|
 78| 4500|
 79| 4750|*
 80| 5000| difference changes to 500 here
 81| 5500|
 82| 6000|
 83| 6500|
 84| 7000|
 85| 7500|
 86| 8000|
 87| 8500|
 88| 9000|
 89| 9500|
 90|10000|  difference changes to 1000 here
 91|11000|
 92|12000|
 93|13000|
 94|14000|
 95|15000|
 96|16000|
 97|17000|
 98|18000|*
 99|19000|*
100|25000|* note 5000 bonus for perfection here, deserved
---+-----+

  7. GAME MAP

  The word 'Zone' is assumed at the end of each location place. Once 
you've passed to an island you can move to the previous one with L1 or 
the next with R1.

  ISLAND # 1

    Beach

  ISLAND # 2

    Amazon---Fiesta

  ISLAND # 3

    Aquarius
       |
Ice --- ---
       |   |
        ---Space City(the only zone you can access from two directions)

  ISLAND # 4

          Desert
            |
Pipe City--- ---Antipodes
            |
          Jungle

  ISLAND # 5

        Twilight
           |
Mystical--- ---Tropical
           |
          Tomb

  ISLAND # 6

Radiation---Ruined

  ISLAND # 7

  North Pole / Space [North pole is to the west but you have to L1/R1 
click to move between the two.)

  8. LEVEL BY LEVEL WALKTHROUGH

  The level numbers are assigned arbitrarily(i.e. north/south) among 
members of the same island, although groups of levels in the same island 
are of similar difficulty.

    8.1. BEACH

  The beach is...well, a beach. Okay, a breeze. Still it is a good 
introduction to the world of Pipe Dreams for those who have never played 
the game before. It's also a great place for veterans to go if they want 
to stock up on extra guys. After some of the tougher levels it will be 
no problem to pick up the 25000 for keeping all the flooze on all three 
levels. With the later levels only allowing one loss of life, you can 
usually give yourself two extras breezing through this one.

  I find that, with enough skill, you should be able to get 250000, or 
three extra guys. This is very handy as a buffer to start later levels. 
At the very least a skilled player should be able to escape with all the 
flooze intact, easily netting 100000 points; flooze perfection alone 
nets 75000. After some practice I found I was able to score over 100000 
on any individual scene, but due to a mixture of laziness and 
carelessness described as practicality(not to mention random drain 
placement) I find that I usually just clip the 250000 mark. So I guess 
you can say you'll get to vacation at the beach a lot.

  A general formula for scores is: 40000 + 20000[multiplier shown in 
lower left] for any one scene, plus up to 36000 for all the coins in the 
second scene.

      SCENE 1: "Easy Plumbing"

..........
..........
..........
..........
....<.....
..........
..........

  You have eight squares to let flooze flow through before the drain 
hole appears.

  General strategies should cover how to tread water pretty well so I 
won't do much of that here. First learn to tread water, then try to 
start using crosses. If you can do so just before entering the sinkhole 
or even set things up so that you hit a few crosses before entering, 
then you will have a tremendous bonus to start with. But as this level 
has no distinguishing characteristics whatsoever there is no way to form 
an official strategy except to note the following general pattern as you 
improve:

1. First time through just get comfortable and get out
2. Subsequent times, try to set up a cross on purpose before you get out
3. Third time through, try to set up multiple crosses such as you can 
see below, or with some rotation of it. Perhaps the actual diagram below 
is a(err...) pipe dream(promise I won't use that pun again,) but if it 
works out OK you get mega points. Obviously there's setting up to do as 
you mill around but if this sort of thing works it should give you 
confidence in your pipe building ability in general.

... ... ... ... ...
... .XX XX. .XX XX.
... .X. .X. .X. .X.

... .X. .X. .X. .X.
XXX XXX XXX XXX XX.
... .X. .X. .X. ...

DR. .X. .X. .X. ...
AIN XX. .XX XX. ...
... ... ... ... ...

      SCENE 2: "Bonus Coins"

$.$.$$.$.$
..........
...<......
$.$.$$.$.$
..........
..........
$.$.$$.$.$

  You have a bunch of coins to collect. With some practice you should be 
able to get all the coins without losing any flooze. Since they are so 
nicely lined up horizontally, this should not be a problem. You will 
probably pick up a few by happy accident anyway, although a more 
detailed way to get everything appears below.

  Initially it's a more practical decision just to build a good 
pipeline, let the coins drop where they may(by all means, direct 
yourself to them) and get out ASAP. But if you want to master the point-
hogging possibilities of the first scene, this is a good way to do 
it(true, you can go through twice, but that takes up a ton of loading 
time.)

  To pick up everything I recommend trying to construct a pipeline that 
goes horizontally across a row and bends at the edge. It may not be the 
easiest thing to do but it is very possible. Don't worry about wasting a 
lot of pipes. This level is very forgiving--they disappear pretty 
quickly anyway. You can either zigzag or even use a cross just before 
you exit(double the flooze score) as a tight loop may come in very handy 
here. In fact, I generally go counterclockwise around the board to the 
UL, then down halfway and right. I try to put a cross in the path to the 
right so I can get a cross bonus coming back up as well after going into 
the DR corner. I've found one risk here is that you may be suckered into 
hitting the sinkhole. Hopefully you can avoid this by(if by no other 
method) re-tracking your own path and picking a more convenient place to 
continue your excursions.

  Actually after several plays through I find the biggest nuisance is 
that the sinkhole will appear in an inconvenient place sometimes. If it 
appears between two coins it is at your discretion to decide for a quick 
out(avoiding the sinkhole requires effort and may lose some flooze) or 
just to concentrate on a bunch of crosses on the third scene.

  You have 12 squares to fill with pipe and have flooze flow through 
them before the drain hole appears.

      SCENE 3: "Collect Four"

..........
..*....*..
..........
..........
..........
..*....*..
..........

  Here is the first level where you have to pick something up. On scene 
two you had the option to do so with reward. Here it is a necessity for 
escaping the level. The four stars should not be too tough to pick up. A 
DR and UL pipe seem to appear pretty quickly along with a horizontal 
one. Try to construct a pipeline that goes from the DL to DR to UR to 
UL. There are no great big bonuses to pick up in this level although you 
may want to test your cross-building skills here.

[what if you change a pipe square to a cross before your second time 
through?]

** Note: the next two levels are on the second island. **

    8.2. Amazon Zone

  You're introduced to some new concepts in this level, such as the 
raised squares which block your way a bit. This will force you to turn 
your pipes in certain directions but there's nothing too tough to worry 
about here. However you should not expect too many problems. Finding the 
way to get through each obstacle is not too difficult.

      SCENE 1: "Obstacles"

vX..$..X.O
.X..X..X..
....X....X
..........
....X....X
.X..X..X..
.X..$..X..

  You start in the upper left, need to loop around, and go to the upper 
right. You must pick up the two coins before leaving. I'd definitely use 
a cross in this level to get through it and get some extra points to 
boot. Your first few moves should be pretty obvious and I find you can 
pick up either coin. As a general rule, though, it seems to be easier to 
go continually counterclockwise and my solution below accounts for that. 
You'll have plenty of time to throw away pieces you don't want as well.

... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... HO. 
... ... ... .XX X$X XX. ... ... .XX LE. 
... ... ... .X. ... .X. ... ... .X. ... 

.X. ... ... .X. ... .X. ... ... .X. ... 
.X. ... ... .X. ... .X. ... ... .X. ... 
.X. ... ... .X. ... .X. ... ... .X. ... 

.X. ... ... .X. ... .X. ... ... .X. ... 
.XX XXX XX. .X. ... .X. ... ... .X. ... 
... ... .X. .X. ... .X. ... ... .X. ... 

... ... .X. .X. ... .X. ... ... .X. ... 
... ... .X. .XX XXX XXX XXX XXX XX. ... 
... ... .X. ... ... .X. ... ... ... ... 

... ... .X. ... ... .X. ... ... ... ... 
... ... .X. ... ... .X. ... ... ... ... 
... ... .X. ... ... .X. ... ... ... ... 

... ... .X. ... ... .X. ... ... ... ... 
... ... .X. ... ... .X. ... ... ... ... 
... ... .X. ... ... .X. ... ... ... ... 

... ... .X. ... ... .X. ... ... ... ... 
... ... .XX XXX X$X XX. ... ... ... ... 
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 

  Obviously small differences work OK too, such as moving the big u/d 
stretch one to the right or, in the right upper right, going with three 
curvy pipes at the turns. Instead of throwing curvy pieces away, in 
fact, you might want to put them in place. But I find this general 
pattern makes for very little tension and even nets you a bit above the 
regular bonus.

  This level really should pose few problems for you, and there's a 
great chance you can save all the flooze.

      SCENE 2: "Round Trip"

......X...
......X.*.
......X...
...X..X...
...X......
.^.X......
...X......

  Another scene that's not too bad as an introduction to the concept of 
getting around blocks. You end up where you start--the sinkhole appears 
at the pipe where the flooze begins. In the meantime you have to zigzag 
to the other side of the board and back.

  Using crosses in strategic places will allow you not to have to 
rearrange too much. You also may want to start planning the journey back 
before you take it. Remember that the way you came, although you can 
possibly turn back onto it and have an easy path back to the 
sinkhole/starting point, can also vanish. And once the start vanishes, 
it may begin to collapse quickly. So you can try to move the flooze 
quickly for stretches, but barring that, you'll want to plan ahead.

  For people who want to use crosses to try for an extra bonus, I 
present the following map as a hypothetical way to get through the 
board.

... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 

... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 
... ... .XX XX. ... ... ... .XX XX. ... 
... ... .X. .X. ... ... ... .X. .X. ... 

... ... .X. .X. ... ... ... .X. .X. ... 
... .XX XXX XXX XX. ... ... .X. .X. ... 
... .X. .X. .X. .X. ... ... .X. .X. ... 

... .X. .X. .X. .X. ... ... .X. .X. ... 
... .X. .X. .X. .X. ... ... .X. .X. ... 
... .X. .X. .X. .X. ... ... .X. .X. ... 

... .X. .X. .X. .X. ... ... .X. .X. ... 
... .X. .X. .X. .X. ... ... .X. .X. ... 
... .X. .X. .X. .X. ... ... .X. .X. ... 

... .^. .X. .X. .X. ... ... .X. .X. ... 
... .^. XX. .X. .XX XXX XXX XXX XX. ... 
... ... ... .X. ... ... ... .X. ... ... 

... ... ... .X. ... ... ... .X. ... ... 
... ... ... .XX XXX XXX XXX XX. ... ... 
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 

      SCENE 3: "Jungle Treasure"

..........
.XXX....X.
..$X.X.$X.
.....X.XX.
..X.$X....
..X.XX.X..
..X....X..

  This scene is not as strictly orderly as the first two and there are 
three--count 'em, three--coins to pick up. You'll need to make some 
sharp turns as well and there's no opportunity for easy crossing, but 
you still have lots of squares where you can throw stuff away. Note 
that, will all the necessary turns, you may need to do some planning 
ahead and forward-thinking piece placement and not just throw all the 
diagonal pieces away. Also if a bunch come up at the start you may want 
to use the loop instead of the straight way to go two squares up. But if 
you get rid of squares quickly enough you should be able to move up to 
the top of the board without loss of flooze, and once you learn to plan 
ahead you should have the rest of the level under control.

... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 
... ... ... ... ... ... ... .XX XXX XX. 
... ... ... ... ... ... ... .X. ... .X. 

... ... ... ... ... ... ... .X. ... ... 
... ... ... ... .XX XXX XX. .X. ... .X. 
... ... ... ... .X. ... .X. .X. ... .X. 

... ... ... ... .X. ... .X. .X. ... .X. 
.XX XXX XX. ... .X. ... .XX XX. ... .X. 
.X. ... .X. ... .X. ... ... ... ... .X. 

.X. ... .X. ... .X. ... ... ... ... .X. 
.X. ... .XX XX. .X. ... ... ... ... .X. 
.X. ... ... .X. .X. ... ... ... ... .X. 

.X. ... ... .X. .X. ... ... ... ... .X. 
.X. ... ... .XX XX. ... ... ... ... .X. 
.X. ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .X. 

.X. ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .X. 
.X. ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .X. 
.X. ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .X. 

.HO ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .^. 
.LE ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .^. 
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 

    8.3. Fiesta Zone

  This level isn't too bad. Some may in fact be easier than the Amazon 
zone; generally the creators tried to balance the difficulty of each 
level on each island. Again, if you find a simple trick the scenes here 
shouldn't be too bad.

      SCENE 1: "Blocked In"

XX..XX..XX
X.$....$.X
..X....X..
...>......
..X....X..
X.$....$SX
XX..XX..XX

  You need to fill in 22 sections of pipe before the sinkhole opens up. 
You don't need to get the coins(the last level where you don't need to 
pick anything up) but it's probably easy enough to do so. You might as 
well just create a counterclockwise path to pick everything up. The path 
should be pretty intuitive and straight, but I've included it below 
because you need to do the same thing in the second scene.

... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 

... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 
... .XX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XX. ... 
... .X. ... ... ... ... ... ... .X. ... 

... .X. ... ... ... ... ... ... .X. ... 
... .X. ... ... ... ... ... ... .X. ... 
... .X. ... ... ... ... ... ... .X. ... 

... .X. ... ... ... ... ... ... .X. ... 
... .X. ... .>> XXX XXX XXX XXX XX. ... 
... .X. ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 

... .X. ... ... ... ... ... ... .X. ... 
... .X. ... ... ... ... ... ... .X. ... 
... .X. ... ... ... ... ... ... .X. ... 

... .X. ... ... ... ... ... ... .X. ... 
... .XX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XX. ... 
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 

... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 

      SCENE 2: "Four Easy Steps"

..........
..1....2..
..........
...XXXX...
..........
..4.<..3..
..........

  You will want to create a path similar to that found in "Blocked In" 
only you don't have to start inside, and you will find it easier to go 
clockwise. That way you can pick up all the stars. The sinkhole seemed 
to jump around on me here so I couldn't map it out.

      SCENE 3: "One Bridge"

...X.....*
.$.X.*....
...X....XX
...H.....<
...X....XX
.$.X.*....
...X.....*

  ** Ledger **

  H = bridge that appears when you grab all the stars

  Grab all the stars on the right and then pick up the coins on the 
left. Return to the middle of the right edge from whence you came and 
you will find the sinkhole.

  Obviously the stars in the corners will require a bit of patience. 
However you can use curvy pieces or even a cross to get to them. The 
solution below shows two ways to pick them off. I also show a way to 
pick up a cross before you leave although it is a bit risky; you can 
just exit immediately and will probably lose the bonus anyway. A mirror 
image(vertically) of the pattern will work as well, but I wanted to show 
a variety of strategies. Remember also that you may need to change the 
square just right of the bridge and that the stuff to the right of the 
bridge may need to be reconstructed.

  There are several chances for crosses here although it is a bit hard 
to manufacture one when you exit. The standard tight loop is certainly 
possible but don't press for it. Also note that in the diagram below you 
may want to give yourself a little more space so maybe make a slight 
detour curve so you don't loop back on yourself before you need to 
change direction.

... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...
... ... ... ... ... .XX XXX XXX XXX XX.
... ... ... ... ... .X. ... ... ... .X.

... ... ... ... ... .X. ... ... ... .X.
.XX XX. ... ... ... .X. ... .XX XXX XX.
.X. .X. ... ... ... .X. ... .X. ... ...

.X. .X. ... ... ... .X. ... .X. ... ...
.X. .X. ... ... ... .X. ... .X. ... ...
.X. .X. ... ... ... .X. ... .X. ... ...

.X. .X. ... ... ... .X. ... .X. ... ...
.X. XXX XXX XXX XX. .X. ... .XX XXX ...
... .X. ... ... .X. .X. ... ... ... ...

... .X. .X. ... .X. .X. ... ... ... ...
... .X. .X. ... .X. .X. ... ... ... ...
... .X. .X. ... .X. .X. ... ... ... ...

... .X. .X. ... .X. .X. ... ... ... ...
... .X. .X. ... .XX XXX XXX XXX XXX XX.
... .X. .X. ... ... .X. ... ... ... .X.

... .X. .X. ... ... .X. ... ... ... .X.
... .XX XX. ... ... .XX XXX XXX XXX XX.
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...

    8.4. Ice Zone

  This level may seem a bit tough the first time through, especially 
with the sinkholes visible but blocked off, but after you know which 
stars you grab do what there is even less challenge than usual for the 
early levels. These ideas are recycled to be much tougher in later 
rounds.

      SCENE 1: "Blocked Plughole"

*....X..*.
.....X....
.XXX.X....
.XVX.X...<
.XXX.X....
.....X....
*....X..*.

  There is an easy way and a hard way to get through this. If you know 
which stars take out which blocks the solution is easy indeed. Suffice 
it to say that it is extra easy once you get all four stars, but you 
don't necessarily need to. It's pretty easy to work out a plan to get 
through the level but I'll include the solution in another paragraph so 
as not to include a spoiler. Unfortunately you haven't been introduced 
to bombs yet so you have to get the stars, actually.

  **** WHICH STAR DOES WHAT ****

--the upper right star takes out the top three squares in the wall in 
the middle.
--the lower right star takes out the bottom three squares in the wall in 
the middle.
--the upper left star takes out the squares labeled 'x' in the square 
compartment guarding the sinkhole
--the lower left star takes out the squares labeled 'X' in the square 
compartment guarding the sinkhole

  You should be able to figure out a quick path to the sinkhole from 
this, but if not, I'll give the final answer below.

  Go up and get the UR star. Then go left to get the UL star. Then go 
down halfway and two squares right to the sinkhole.

      SCENE 2: "Bomb Your Way In"

..........
...X......
..XXX.....
.XXVXX...<
..XXX.....
...X......
..........

  This is another simple level once you know what to do. Of course the 
bombs are most economically used if you put them both in one direction 
from the hole. From my experience it seems that the best way to go is to 
put the bombs in the two squares west of the hole. You also need to 
watch out for the blocks that begin to rise up and annoy you. If you go 
quickly then you should have little problem. You'll want to get to the 
outside belt ASAP. Don't worry about crossing bonus here; just worry 
about getting out.  Fortunately the blocks seem to rise on the far left 
so you can probably circle around for a bit--or take them out with 
bombs, which appear consistently at random intervals after a delay at 
the start.

  You shouldn't need a diagram for this one; just go up, left, and 
halfway down before going right to the sink.

      SCENE 3: "Bombed Out"

V X*..*X .
  X....X
XXX....XXX
$$X...<X$$
XXX....XXX
  X....X
. X*..*X V

  I don't find the coins worthwhile to get here; certainly pulling down 
all of them is a task. Still this level gives a moderate challenge with 
a combination of things to do. What you'll want to do is to establish a 
counterclockwise(well, clockwise works OK too but for some reason I work 
better going counterclockwise) route around the edge of the board and 
wait for a bomb to give you access to the compartments; watch out for 
using a bomb without getting the right star as you can actually hit a 
dead end(i.e. bomb 2 squares left of upper right and enter there without 
getting the right star.) It's the first board in this walkthrough where 
that can happen. Each star opens up a corner compartment and you'll need 
to enter a sinkhole. Again I won't spoil which does what here, but once 
you see a compartment open you want to go to, plan ahead to put stuff in 
there. Use the coin squares for "junk" squares. You also may want to use 
the twist trick with the curved pipes in the compartment if straight 
pieces are hard to come by; you should be able to use two bombs to gain 
easy access to the compartment.

  **** WHICH STAR DOES WHAT ****

  Each star elevates the compartment in the farthest corner away.

    8.5. Aquarius Zone

  Similar to the Ice Zone with lots of stuff blocking things, but there 
are also moving objects in one level. There's nice variety to this level 
but it's probably not the hardest one on the island although it's more 
challenge than the Ice Zone.

      SCENE 1: "Cornered Stars"

*X......X*
XX......XX
..........
....<....*
..........
XX......XX
*X......XS

  When you know which star does what, trying to do too much after 
getting the first star will get you in big trouble. However after that 
your way will be relatively clear. I'll list below the order in which 
you should get the stars with a slightly modified map.

3X......X2
XX......XX
..........
....<....1
..........
XX......XX
4X......XS

      SCENE 2: "Plughole Path"

........ S
.*...... B
........ B
.>...... B
........ B
......*. B
........BB

  Here the stars move back and forth in the second-top and second-bottom 
rows. Catching either one will help your progress as you need to clear 
out the blocks on the right side, and each time you catch a star, one 
block disappears. So what's the best way to do this?

  First observe that the stars move at the same speed as you do. Use 
this to your advantage; create a track that goes in a circle and covers 
these rows. If you manage to catch one star at the edge and are going in 
the right direction, you can pick it up a few times. Accelerate if you 
need to in order to get the timing straight. You may have to do this 
twice, but once you do you can start planning ahead to fill the right 
side with vertical blocks. You can maybe even finesse a cross before you 
solve everything. Map below. Obviously you'll want a complete circle 
before you clear the right out but after that you have a chance to pick 
up a few more points--it can also buy a bit of time to get all the 
straight pieces you need.

... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .SI
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .NK

... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .X.
.XX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XX. ... .X.
.X. ... ... ... ... ... ... .X. ... .X.

.X. ... ... ... ... ... ... .X. ... .X.
.X. ... ... ... ... ... ... .X. ... .X.
.X. ... ... ... ... ... ... .X. ... .X.

.X. ... ... ... ... ... ... .X. ... .X.
.X. ... ... ... ... ... ... .X. ... .X.
.X. ... ... ... ... ... ... .X. ... .X.

.X. ... ... ... ... ... ... .X. ... .X.
.X. ... ... ... ... .XX XX. .X. ... .X.
.X. ... ... ... ... .X. .X. .X. ... .X.

.X. ... ... ... ... .X. .X. .X. ... .X.
.XX XXX XXX XXX XX. XXX XXX XX. ... .X.
... ... ... ... .X. .X. .X. ... ... .X.

... ... ... ... .X. .X. .X. ... ... .X.
... ... ... ... .XX XX. .XX XXX XXX XX.
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...

      SCENE 3: "Nocturnal Stars"

.*.X.*..X*
...X....XX
...X......
>.SX......
...X......
...X....XX
.*.X.*..X*

  The stars behave pretty well as each of the left four reveals a part 
of the board close to it. You do have to nab them all to move on. 
However, the pattern is not too hard once you get by the inital squeeze, 
in which you can ditch undesirable pieces of pipe on the right as many 
will evaporate before you move there. 

... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...
... .XX XX. ... ... .XX XXX XXX XXX XX.
... .X. .X. ... ... .X. ... ... ... .X.

... .X. .X. ... ... .X. ... ... ... .X.
... .X. .X. ... ... .X. ... .XX XXX XX.
... .X. .X. ... ... .X. ... .X. ... ...

... .X. .X. ... ... .X. ... .X. ... ...
... .X. .X. ... ... .XX XXX XXX XXX XX.
... .X. .X. ... ... ... ... .X. ... .X.

... .X. .X. ... ... ... ... .X. ... .X.
... XXX XX. ... XXX XXX XXX XX. ... .X.
... .X. ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .X.

... .X. ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .X.
... .X. ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .X.
... .X. ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .X.

... .X. ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .X.
... .X. ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .X.
... .X. ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .X.

... .X. ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .X.
... .XX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XX.
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...

  The path seems cut off at the end but I think that it should be pretty 
clear what to do after that. I put the loop in because you should 
generally be on the watch for that if you are piling up points, and the 
corner is a bit of a tight spot to work out of as you have to go around 
it first. You also may want to put a few bends and curves in the regular 
loop on the left to buy some time for further planning ahead. In the 
above example you can maybe cross over twice more if you are patient and 
wily enough(quickly back up and left.)

    8.6. Space City Zone

  Again, some variety, and you have a lot of tight spots to navigate and 
even a small puzzle. The challenges are pretty neat and no level seems 
too similar. Again it's early in the game so nothing's terribly deep, 
making this an enjoyable level.

      SCENE 1: "Catch a Falling Star"

>.........
........*.
...*...*..
..........
..*...*...
.*........
..........

  The stars move around randomly at first so this starts as a survival 
level. You should pick off a few at random but eventually they will slow 
down into predictable patterns, vacillating through three squares. Then 
all you have to do is target those three squares and you should walk 
away with this level pretty easily.

      SCENE 2: "Building Bridges"

...  ... S
...62..* .
...  ...1$
.>.34... $
...  ...2$
...15... .
.*.  ... S

  There is only one star in each separate area and each goes around in a 
counterclockwise direction. It skips the corner of its pattern so if you 
track it down you may have to accelerate to catch up with it again. If 
possible you will want to pick off the three coins on the right, and 
that may be the only serious challenge this level poses.

      SCENE 3: "Good Star, Bad Star"

.* ... .*.
.. .*. ...
.. ... ...
..H...H..<
.. ... ...
.. .*. ...
S. ... .*.

  Each of the two areas to the right has one good star and one bad star. 
The good star opens up a bridge to the left. The bad star closes it if 
it's there. So there's a bit of a guessing game, but you won't get 
caught out too badly. General looping techniques in small areas have 
already been covered, so I won't go there again. However, I will mention 
that it is possible to cross in the right areas but not a good idea(the 
bonus will be gone by the time you leave.) Work the left side in advance 
so that when you get the final star it'll all be easy.

  **Spoiler map with good star(y) and bad star(n) below**

  Of course, some people may just want to get through with the level, so 
I decided, why not include which star is the right one to pick up?

.* ... .Y.
.. .N. ...
.. ... ...
..H...H..<
.. ... ...
.. .Y. ...
S. ... .N.

    8.7. Desert Zone

  A new island and new risks. Scene 1 may actually be the very toughest 
of all the levels; your greed can tempt you into a fatal mistake, and 
this may be the first legitimately nasty level. It's still fair, though. 
The boards are in general barren of obstacles but have a lot of 
compressed sand(gems)--clever touch there. Still overall you should not 
suffer too much through this level.

      SCENE 1: "Faster, Faster!"

.........<
...Y......
....Y.....
.....Y....
......Y...
.......Y..
S.........

  If you pick up too many of the yellow diamonds at once without having 
the right pipes in place, you'll wind up losing a lot of flooze, 
possibly all of it. So you may want to pick up one at a time although it 
is a fun challenge to pick off one every other square. Don't be afraid 
to go slowly and have an infrastructure put up six squares ahead before 
getting a diamond. You can also make a diamond a tight cross square. 
There's a lot of room for experimentation here but don't feel you have 
to do everything at once. If in doubt try to tend diagonally down left 
from the start to ensure you only hit one diamond at once.

  My pattern to get through the level quickly is to go all the way left, 
then cut back diagonally DR, and when at the bottom head left into the 
sinkhole. Of course you can dally and grab crosses and bonuses as well. 
I'll show an example with many different ways to traverse the diamonds 
below. It may be a bit optimistic, but hopefully you will grasp the 
three ways to grab successive diamonds: two curved pipes in a row, a 
straight pipe between two courved ones, and a loop best placed at the 
very bottom.

... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...
... ... .XX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX <<.
... ... .X. ... ... ... ... ... ... ...

... ... .X. ... ... ... ... ... ... ...
... ... .XX XX. ... ... ... ... ... ...
... ... ... .X. ... ... ... ... ... ...

... ... ... .X. ... ... ... ... ... ...
... ... ... .XX XXX XX. ... ... ... ...
... ... ... ... ... .X. ... ... ... ...

... ... ... ... ... .X. ... ... ... ...
.XX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XX. ... ... ...
.X. ... ... ... ... .X. .X. ... ... ...

.X. ... ... ... ... .X. .X. ... ... ...
.X. ... ... ... .XX XXX XXX XX. ... ...
.X. ... ... ... .X. .X. .X. .X. ... ...

.X. ... ... ... .X. .X. .X. .X. ... ...
.X. ... ... ... .XX XX. .XX XX. ... ...
.X. ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...

.SI ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...
.NK ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...

      SCENE 2: "Speed Up and Slow Down"

>.........
.Y...W...Y
..........
...B...B..
........S.
.Y...W...Y
..........

  Your goal is to pick up all eight gems.

  This is a bit of a mess at first glance but if you are careful then 
this should not be too bad. First of all you may not want to pick off 
the two yellow first; however after some time you may wish to pick off 
the right-hand yellows once you have a vertical pipeline on the right, 
especially if it can quickly trail into another gem. Note that a 
white/silver gem completely stops the flooze even if it has touched a 
yellow, and the blue still gives standard slowdown. Therefore if you can 
quickly engineer a pipeline through the UL yellow to the white or even 
the blue you can do quite well early on. This is also a good level for 
crossings after you've picked everything up as there are no barriers in 
sight.

  A good pattern would be to pick up the UL yellow, the blue, build a 
pipeline from the yellow to the white, and then make similar ones with 
the time you've bought between the yellow and another non-yellow. There 
should be little danger after you've gotten the first yellow but don't 
go eating the non-yellows too early, and don't try for a yellow without 
the proper pipe infrastructure ahead or it may be curtains early for 
you.

      SCENE 3: "Toot and Come In"

>.*.*.W.*.
..........
*.B.*.*.*.
......XXXX
*.*.*.X X
......XXXX
*.*.*.X XV

  This is easy compared to the previous level. You've got two slowdown 
diamonds, one of which you can pick up right away, and although you have 
thirteen stars to pick up(well, you don't need them all,) you can buy 
time early to work out a path, which can be pretty much straight anyway. 
Stars tend to uncover squares in the same order each time and the 
sinkhole has already appeared.

  Spoiler map of which squares get cleared away. There's no one-to-one 
correspondence between squares and stars, but instead the squares are 
always revealed in a certain order.

>.*.*.W.*.
..........
*.B.*.*.*.
......8721
*.*.*.9 5
......a643
*.*.*.c bV

    8.8. Pipe City Zone

  Lots of fun puzzles involving one-way tubes and dead ends here but 
nothing terribly challenging. Still the nuances are fun enough to look 
through as otherwise you don't feel like you got much out of the level 
as a puzzle.

      SCENE 1: "One Way Trip"

>.>.....>.
.......S..
.<...<....
..........
....^.....
v.......v.
..........

  Lots of one-way pipes here that don't disappear even after you go 
through them. You only have to enter four for the sinkhole to appear and 
it seems to jump around but it should not be hard to activate. Still 
it's rather fun to try to go through all seven pipes and so I thought 
I'd draw up a map as to how to get through them. If you want to cut 
things short then you can just go through the first four.

  Note you cannot destroy a one-way pipe no matter how many times you go 
through it. At least that is what I have found. Maybe you get a 1 
million point bonus the fiftieth time you pass through it but I can live 
without finding that out for sure.

  The starting point is the upper left. The sinkhole seems to be random 
but note a good place for a cross is 2U of the only one-way pipe facing 
up.

... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...
.>> XXX >>> XX. .XX XXX XXX XXX >>> XX.
... ... ... .X. .X. ... ... ... ... .X.

... ... ... .X. .X. ... ... ... ... .X.
... ... ... .X. .X. ... ... ... ... .X.
... ... ... .X. .X. ... ... ... ... .X.

... ... ... .X. .X. ... ... ... ... .X.
.XX <<< XXX XX. xXx <<< XXX XX. .XX XX.
.X. ... ... ... .X. ... ... .X. .X. ...

.X. ... ... ... .X. ... ... .X. .X. ...
.X. ... ... ... .X. ... ... .X. .X. ...
.X. ... ... ... .X. ... ... .X. .X. ...

.X. ... ... ... .^. ... ... .X. .X. ...
.X. ... ... ... .^. ... ... .X. .X. ...
.X. ... ... ... .^. ... ... .X. .X. ...

.V. ... ... ... .X. ... ... .X. .V. ...
.V. ... ... ... .X. ... ... .X. .V. ...
.V. ... ... ... .X. ... ... .X. .V. ...

.X. ... ... ... .X. ... ... .X. .X. ...
.XX XXX XXX XXX XX. ... ... .XX XX. ...
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...

      SCENE 2: "One Way Streets"

VX.XXX.>.X
.X.>.X.X$X
.X.X.X.>.X
.>.X.X.X.X
.XXXVX^X.X
.X...X.X.X
.X$..>.X.S

  Again the upper left is a starting point, not a one-way door.

  Well, there's pretty obviously only one way through this level, except 
for a couple of side-tracks. Given that you have so much time and you 
should be planning ahead, you should really test your skill and try to 
pick up the coins. You may be anguished waiting for the next piece to 
build your continuous path, but there's no excuse not to look ahead and 
find other places to put your current pipe. You will probably see how to 
get through this level pretty quickly but I made a map below just in 
case. It includes getting the coins.

... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...
.v. ... ... ... ... ... .XX >>> XX. ...
.v. ... ... ... ... ... .X. ... .X. ...

.X. ... ... ... ... ... .X. ... .X. ...
.X. ... .XX >>> XX. ... .X. ... .X. ...
.X. ... .X. ... .X. ... .X. ... .X. ...

.X. ... .X. ... .X. ... .X. ... .X. ...
.X. ... .X. ... .X. ... .X. >>> .X. ...
.X. ... .X. ... .X. ... .X. ... .X. ...

.X. ... .X. ... .X. ... .X. ... .X. ...
.XX >>> XX. ... .X. ... .X. ... .X. ...
... ... ... ... .X. ... .X. ... .X. ...

... ... ... ... .V. ... .X. ... .X. ...
... ... ... ... .V. ... .X. ... .X. ...
... ... ... ... .V. ... .X. ... .X. ...

... ... ... ... .X. ... .X. ... .X. ...
... ... .XX XXX XX. ... .X. ... .X. ...
... ... .X. ... ... ... .X. ... .X. ...

... ... .X. ... ... ... .X. ... .X. SI.
... ... .XX XXX XXX >>> XX. ... .XX NK.
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...

      SCENE 3: "Dead Ends"

.........R
.....XXXXX
........ R
....XXXXXX
........ R
...XXXXXXX
^........S

  This is clearly the hardest of the three and although it doesn't have 
one-way doors it still has some nasty tricks that you should be aware 
of. The first is that if you go back to where you previously got a red 
diamond you will wind up in a dead end and, well, die. However it's 
pretty easy to see the order to pick up the diamonds since each one you 
pick up closes the hole L2D of it. One thing you have to worry about is, 
with a full trail of flooze, you cannot always back up easily to the 
left side to get the next red diamond, so you may have to backpedal a 
bit and go into a waiting pattern a bit. Fortunately there's enough 
space on the left. Your full trail of flooze almost takes up the 
horizontal side of the screen so even if you manage to be waiting with a 
DR piece to redirect the flooze you'll need to have a trail blazed so 
that the pipes curve to the right; of course curving the path can help 
you get through things. This is not easy as the only sensible way to 
start the level is chronicled below.

1. build a pipe to the top of the screen and then have it go right. If 
possible Use the dead ends you can't enter yet(very bottom are best) to 
dump superfluous stuff. Start building a horizontal set of pipes(maybe 
curve the path a bit--this helps buy time later) to get to the second 
red diamond. Be sure to have a UR pipe ready when you touch the red 
diamond. Use it 2D of the UL corner. You'll be redirected to the second 
diamond.
2. Get the second diamond. If you've managed to put a curve in the path 
going to the right(preferably above) you'll have a chance to repeat 
what's in (1) but otherwise you'll need to back up and curl around to 
the right before the main stretch down and then right for the third 
diamond.
3. Get the third diamond. You probably won't be able to move back down 
and right immediately so use looping(up/right/down/left/down) to get 
back onto the bottom row, and then go right to the sinkhole.

    8.9. Antipodes Zone

  And things get pretty tricky here. Solutions are simple but there are 
some treacherous spots for first-timers. The third scene in particular 
can be nasty. A lot of the level just flat out disappears or gets 
blocked up. You'll need to be quick to find safe ground, and you'll want 
to make sure you ditch pipes on squares that become useless early. 
Otherwise you may have a space problem.

  No detailed graphs here for walkthroughs as looping should be 
relatively familiar by now.

      SCENE 1: "Blocked Out"

....$$....
..........
...$..$...
.S........
...$..$...
..........
....$$....

  The first three columns on the left and right sides will slowly get 
blocked out. Fortunately, however, if you make a circle that encompasses 
the entire board that remains, you will pick up all the gold coins, and 
if you put a cross in the middle of the left vertical part, you can run 
through it for double points after picking up all the coins. The 
sinkhole appears in the middle row, R of the left edge.

      SCENE 2: "Block and Bomb"

123....321
23.*..*.32
1........1
>..!..!...
1........1
23.*..*.32
123....321

  A rectangle with four stars as corners will kill you, so expand it a 
bit and you should be safe. Make it so you can circle around with 
vertices to the left of the left stars and right of the right stars. The 
blocks that pop up won't menace you then.

      SCENE 3: "Coastal Erosion"

..........
..1.......
..........
...3......
.......2..
....S.....
..........

  After getting the first star, the outer perimeter is stripped away. 
After getting the second star, the new outer rows/columns are stripped 
away. Both stars are on the edge of the remaining area but may leave you 
too close for comfort. After getting the third star, you are allowed to 
go down the sinkhole to the next level. Big things to watch for here are 
running into the area that is stripped away and getting your tail caught 
there. You'll probably take a little damage the second time but how you 
get the stars is important.

1. When you get the first star be sure you are facing towards a square 
in the inner 5x8.
2. When you get the second star be sure you are facing towards a square 
in the inner 3x6.

  I find it's a good idea to make a circle of 5x8 to nail #1 and then 
plan in advance for a 3x6 to nail #2, and a quick out (preferably hit 3 
from above or the right) with a cross U of the sinkhole. It's tough to 
construct and you'll need to work quickly with a paucity of squares to 
dump stuff, so you shouldn't sweat it if you can't.

    8.10. Jungle Zone

  This is in my opinion the most fun and creative level in the game. You 
have a gate-combination level, a tic-tac-toe game, and a harder gate-
combination level. Quarters are a bit cramped but it's always exciting, 
and it's fun to have stars you need to avoid in the game, which is 
certainly the most engaging scene in the game.

      SCENE 1: "Three Gates"

>.........
..........
..*..*..*.
..........
.XXXXXXXXX
..X..X..X.
..X..X..XV

  Each star you step on toggles some of the gates below, and your object 
is to plow a clear path to the sinkhole. It's not too bad to hit the 
stars at random as with only eight possibilities you should stumble on 
the right on eventually. Why eight? Because if you hit a star an even 
number of times the net effect is nothing even if you hit others in 
between. Gates toggled an even number of times are closed, those toggled 
an odd number are open.

  ** Warning: Spoilers Below **

  C'mon, be a sport, figure which gate does what. It won't be too hard 
if you put your mind to it.

  Oh, okay.

  GATE 1 opens gates 1 and 2

  GATE 2 opens gates 2 and 3

  GATE 3 opens gate 3

  The answer should be clear by now, but if you're stuck I'll list gate 
formations and the stars you need to walk over.

open|stars
----+-----
none|1,3 <- yeah, this is the solution here.
1   |2
 2  |1,2
  3 |1
12  |3
1 3 |1,2
 23 |1,2,3

  The more gates are open, the more there is to do. Average of 2 stars 
needed if 2 gates are open, 1 1/3 if 1 is(with 2 for 0 gates open, this 
averages to 1.5 for < 2.)

      SCENE 2: "Tic-Tac-Toe"

......X...
.*.*.*X...
......X...
.*.*.*XXXX
..........
.*.*.*...<
..........

  This is a fun one. Running over any star corresponds to a tic-tac-toe 
move. The board is in the upper right and your opponent fortunately 
makes errors if you can sucker him into it. However, if you lose, your 
board breaks apart and you lose a life. If you win, you gain access to 
the sinkhole. You'll want to try to avoid stars until you know what your 
move is going to be, unless that star is on a square where someone's 
already moved; then there is no effect. But first I encourage you to 
play around a bit before checking my in-depth(heh) Tic-Tac-Toe analysis 
below.

  ** SPOILER--HOW TO BEAT THE COMPUTER **

  First of all, if you take the center square right away the computer 
responds with a corner move which is a draw. I've listed out the 
possibilities(not including symmetry) below. I try to cover all 
variations but if there is an obvious block I display it without 
comment.

  Hopefully you'll enjoy this tic-tac-toe analysis. I imagine people 
have been curious about it before.

The square moves are indicated as follows:

123
456
789

... ... ... ...
.X. .X. .XX OXX
... ..O ..O ..O Here O draws easily by placing 2/7 or 3/8 for the next 
moves.

... ... ..O ..O ..O
.X. .X. .X. .XX OXX
... ..O X.O X.O X.O O just blocks on 2/8 and draws.

... ... ..X ..X ..X .OX
.X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X.
... O.. O.. O.O OXO OXO O blocks on 4/6 next move. Draw.

... ... ... ... X.. X.. X.O
.X. .X. .XX OXX OXX OXX OXX
... O.. O.. O.. O.. O.X O.X Draw next move.

  Note the computer always plays a corner if you play the center. But 
what if you play a corner? The computer seems to play at random then, a 
very bad idea as in fact the center is the only safe play. First the 
center; I've never seen the computer move here but in case it does, 
here's what's going on.

X.. X.. X.. X.. XOX XOX XOX
... .O. XO. XO. XO. XO. XO.
... ... ... O.. O.. OX. OXO Draw.

X.. X.. X.. X.. X.. X.. XX. XXO
... .O. .O. OO. OOX OOX OOX OOX
... ... X.. X.. X.. XO. XO. XO. Draw.

X.. X.. X.. X.. X.X XOX
... .O. .O. .O. .O. .O.
... ... .X. OX. OX. OX. Draw, see above. Second move O:4 can lead to a 
forced loss:X-6, O-7??(to use chess notation) 3 threatens 2 and 9.

X.. X.. X.. X.. XX. XXO XXO XXO
... .O. .O. .O. .O. .O. .O. OO.
... ... ..X .OX .OX .OX XOX XOX Draw. Second move O:3 is disaster after 
X:7 threatens 4 and 8.

  Note in many moves where O is not forced to move somewhere he can walk 
into a situation where X threatens two tic-tac-toes and O can only stop 
one(i.e. he loses.) For instance in the last case O moving to the corner 
second would force a corner block by X, which would give a double threat 
and win.

  But on to the corner square dilemma. The wins are actually easy after 
a mis-step.

X.. XO. XO. XO. XO.
... ... ... O.. OX.
... ... X.. X.. X.. X threatens 3 and 9 and will win.

X.. X.. X.. X.. X.X
... ..O .XO .XO .XO
... ... ... ..O ..O X threatens 2 and 7 and will win.

X.. X.O X.O X.O X.O
... ... ... .O. .O.
... ... ..X ..X X.X X threatens 4 and 8 and will win(transpose of 
above.)

X.. X.. X.X XOX XOX
... ... ... ... ...
... ..O ..O ..O X.O X threatens 4 and 5 and will win.

  So there you have it! If you can't get the upper left(drat, shoulda 
done the lower right but it's already typed up) then just rotate the 
diagrams. Also there's a possibility you may need to flip a diagram 
about an axis for it to work. After reading this you should be convinced 
that guiding the flooze the right way is the tough part.

  Also note that there is a way to blunder into a forced loss as X.

... ... ... ... .X. .X.
X.. XO. XOX XOX XOX XOX
... ... ... .O. .O. OO. Uh-oh. 3 or 9 next move wins for O.

      SCENE 3: "Four Gates"

  If you get stuck with gates in a messy position then you really will 
need to do some scratch work and take advantage of the game pause 
feature after every time you have a star toggle gates. I'll include a 
guide for the lost below all the spoilers.

  Again I don't want to give the solution right off as this is one of 
the most intriguing puzzle in the game. In fact I will give two layers 
of spoilers: one tells what the stars do and which gates they flip 
around, the other tells which stars precisely to go through. Of course, 
it's a bit tougher to figure everything out as there are now 32 
combinations of stars to worry about(only 16 gates actually but it's 
easier to focus on what the stars do to the gates) and even when you 
know which gate does what you still have to puzzle things out.

  ** Which gates do What **

  Stars 1-5 each toggle at least two gates. This makes figuring out the 
toggles a bit tough but once you do you will notice:

--STAR 1 toggles gates 2 and 4.
--STAR 2 toggles gates 1 and 2.
--STAR 3 toggles gates 2 and 3.
--STAR 4 toggles gates 2, 3 and 4.
--STAR 5 toggles gates 1, 3 and 4.

  Now there are 32 combinations of stars and you need to find which one 
toggles the gates an odd number of times.

  Linear Algebra students will note that there are five changes to make 
to a set of only four variables. Therefore there may be more than one 
solution of combinations, and there should be separate gates which when 
activated once will cancel each other out, and that is the case. Note 
that (2) + (4) = (5).

  However the solution is actually quite simple.  All you need to do 
is...

  RUN THROUGH STARS 1, 2 AND 3. If you do so, I recommend putting a 
cross DR of your opening square for double points and to make it easy to 
curve back around.

  You can also run through stars 1, 3, 4 and 5.

  Below is a table depicting which gates you have open and which stars 
you need to touch for things to work out.

gate
----+-------
none|1,2,3
1   |4
 2  |5
  3 |3,5
   4|1,5
12  |1,3
1 3 |1
1  4|3
 23 |1,2
 2 4|2,3
  34|2
123 |3,4
12 4|1,4
1 34|1,3,4
 234|1,3,5
1234|none

  Interestingly the more gates you have open the farther away you are 
likely to be! With 1 or 2 gates open there is a 1/2 chance you need 1 
star and 1/2 you need 2. With 3 gates open there's a 1/2 chance of 
either 2 or 3 stars needed.

    8.11. Twilight Zone

  Only the third scene is annoying here and even then if you do a bit of 
pre-building it should fly by. Lots of chances to turn invisible and 
even some interesting random jewels(themselves invisible) on the last 
scene.

      SCENE 1: "Invisible Stars"

.......X..
...-*-.X..
.......X..
>..-*-.X.S
.......X..
...-*-.X..
.......X..

  ** Ledger **

  - = star's path

  It may seem daunting that the stars disappear; however, this level is 
really no different from others with moving stars. You can see at the 
beginning which way the stars move, and so all you have to do is to make 
the pipe path coincide with the three stars'. After that the level is 
not going to cause you much trouble. Note that getting each star opens 
on the X to the right of it.

  With the pattern below it's recommended you complete everything and 
have a 4W or LR ready to place at the X, in the square indicated by *'s. 
I do recommend putting the cross in, and it can't hurt to use some 
curved pieces to buy yourself some time outside of the stars' movement 
zomes.

... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...

... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...
... ... .XX XXX XXX XXX XX. ... ... ...
... ... .X. ... ... ... .X. ... ... ...

... ... .X. ... ... ... .X. ... ... ...
... .XX XX. ... ... ... .X. ... ... ...
... .X. ... ... ... ... .X. ... ... ...

... .X. ... ... ... ... .X. ... ... SI.
.>> XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XX. ... ... NK.
... .X. ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...

... .X. ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .X.
... .X. ... ... ... .XX XX. ... .XX XX.
... .X. ... ... ... .X. .X. ... .X. ...

... .X. ... ... ... .X. .X. *** .X. ...
... .XX XXX XXX XXX XX. .XX *** XX. ...
... ... ... ... ... ... ... *** ... ...

... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...

      SCENE 2: "Invisible Flow"

>.........
..K...K...
.....V....
K..K.K..K.
..........
..K...K...
..........

  Invisibility should not really be a handicap, so this level winds up 
seeming shockingly easy. If you know the last black gem you've run over, 
then you know which way the flooze is headed, and you can probably work 
from that. This level has a good opportunity for crosses. I suppose that 
it's not too tough to get through, but I'll include a preferred path 
anyhow. The hole seems to appear in random places so unfortunately you 
may not be able to get the easy x3 as listed below off the bat, but on 
the other hand you can putz around and manufacture crosses before you 
leave.

... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...
.>> XXX XX. ... ... ... ... ... ... ...
... ... .X. ... ... ... ... ... ... ...

... ... .X. ... ... ... ... ... ... ...
... ... .X. ... ... ... XX. ... ... ...
... ... .X. ... ... ... .X. ... ... ...

... ... .X. ... ... ... .X. ... ... ...
... ... .X. ... ... ... .X. ... ... ...
... ... .X. ... ... ... .X. ... ... ...

... ... .X. ... ... ... .X. ... ... ...
.XX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XX. ...
.X. ... .X. ... ... ... .X. ... .X. ...

.X. ... .X. ... ... ... .X. ... .X. ...
.X. ... .X. ... ... ... .X. ... .X. ...
.X. ... .X. ... ... ... .X. ... .X. ...

.X. ... .X. ... ... ... .X. ... .X. ...
.XX XXX XX. ... ... ... .XX XXX XX. ...
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...

... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...

      SCENE 3: "Question Marks"

XX...?..XX
X?..?...?X
...X..X...
...?..?..S
...X..X...
X?...?..?X
XX..?...XX

  Well, there are a lot of gems to pick up here. They seem to be 
determined randomly although a red gem(reversal) never pops up. It's 
actually to your advantage to pick up two gems in a row where you can, 
because:
1) if they're both yellow, only one will take effect.
2) if one is blue or one is white, you'll have a lot of time to build 
what's ahead.
3) invisibility is no big deal, or it shouldn't be.
4) looping in general is a good thing--buys two extra squares of time 
and you aren't dependent on waiting for straight parts

  At any rate you only need to pick up six jewels, and as they don't add 
any points to your score, there's no reason to try to get every one 
unless you enjoy the challenge. You may also wish to curve around a bit 
before picking up the first one as a very early yellow can be nasty. So 
I recommend the following path, which you can tail off at any time if 
you want to go to the sinkhole(for instance you can cut through the 
middle after looping around to the left, and if you've placed a cross 
next to the sinkhole it's worth a few extra points:)

... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...
... ... ... ... .XX XX. ... ... ... ...
... ... ... ... .X. .X. ... ... ... ...

... ... ... ... .X. .X. ... ... ... ...
... .XX XXX XXX XX. .XX XXX XXX XX. ...
... .X. ... ... ... ... ... ... .X. ...

... .X. ... ... ... ... ... ... .X. ...
... .X. ... ... ... ... ... ... .X. ...
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .X. ...

... .X. ... ... ... ... ... ... .X. .SI
.>> XXX XX. ... XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX .NK
... .X. .X. ... ... ... ... ... .X. ...

... .X. .X. ... ... ... ... ... .X. ...
... .X. .X. ... ... ... ... ... .X. ...
... .X. .X. ... ... ... ... ... .X. ...

... .X. .X. ... ... ... ... ... .X. ...
... .XX .XX XXX XX. .XX XXX XXX XX. ...
... ... ... ... .X. .X. ... ... ... ...

... ... ... ... .X. .X. ... ... ... ...
... ... ... ... .XX XX. ... ... ... ...
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...

  Once you get to the end of this path, just tend up 'til you get to the 
middle section and go right.

    8.12. Tropical Zone

  This is as innocuous and pleasant as a tropical island. Stars can move 
around a bit, and you have an interesting reversal puzzle, but you won't 
need any profound thinking to pass this level.

      SCENE 1: "Drawbridge"

*.  .*.*..
..  ......
..  ......
..  ......
..  ......
X.  ......
VX  ......

  Each star on the right travels vertically. If you grab each one once a 
path will be created that you can cross, as touching the left star opens 
a square on the left void and the right star opens a square in the right 
void. This continues until you've revealed all the squares on one side. 
The order in which squares are revealed is the same on each side. Since 
the stars move at the same speed as you do, if you catch them while 
going in the right direction(I recommend going in a counterclockwise 
direction to do so,) you will reveal a lot of the suppressed part of the 
board quickly. Once that's complete it should be easy to head to the 
corner, pick up the star, and head down to pick enter the sinkhole.

      SCENE 2: "Double Reverse"

>..XRXRX.V
...X.X.X..
...X.X.X..
.....X.X
.....X....
.....X...$
..... ..$$

  This one will be a bit tougher than the Pipe City one because you 
can't move immediately from one red gem to the next once the reversal 
starts. I strongly recommend that, when you go right/down/right/up to 
get the first red gem, to leave a space at the bottom. This will make 
looping back around a lot easier. If not, consider it practice for the 
next, tougher red gem.

  The second gem is not so bad to get if you've followed my outline 
above; if you went along the bottom then you will need to buy time and 
twist around until you are going right along the bottom. Once you get 
the red gem, unless you're perfectly coiled correctly using the squares 
in the lower right(and even so you will need a few correct pieces in a 
row to avoid losing flooze--or it seems that way according to my 
estimations, I'd be interested to hear from anyone who can do this 
exactly,) you will have to loop around back to the left and go in again. 
By now the two other voided squares have been filled in as you grabbed 
the gem, and after grabbing the gem you should begin to construct a 
pipeline to the sinkhole on the far right.

  I think this is a good puzzle scene as it forces you to do something 
tough once but allows you to avoid it the first time through with 
thought.

      SCENE 3: "Corridors"

>.........
..........

..........
..........
 XX XX XX
..V.XX.V..

  Each star moves a bit differently but fortunately as you are in 
cramped quarters you only need to touch each one once, and there are 
even two sinkholes to enter.

  The top star moves clockwise. You start in what would indicate a 
counterclockwise direction but you would do well to switch it quickly as 
follows:

... ...
.>> XX.
... .X.

... .X.
... .XX
... ...

  Now start the circle as usual. It's much easier to run into the star 
when you're going in the opposite direction; otherwise you'll have to 
speed up, and that can leave you short of time and pieces. You should be 
able to reconstruct your clockwise circle on the fly but it's a bit of 
effort.

  The bottom star moves the following way: right, up, right, down, etc. 
and scrolls to the other side when it falls off the right edge. I've 
found that sometimes I need to access the previous area and form a huge 
circle to get going. Once you do it should be pretty easy. You'll want 
to make it as wide as possible(i.e. go through the left and right exits) 
and you should be able to catch up with the star's pattern wherever it 
is. If it's on the edge the first time just adjust your circle so it 
touches the edges next time, to wit:

[from corridors]

... .X.
... .X.
... .X.

... .X.
... .XX
... ...

  TO:

... .X.
.XX XX.
.X. ...

.X. ...
.XX XXX
... ...

  This will buy a little time. If you go on the same pattern and 
perpetually miss the star, accelerate a bit every now and then.

    8.13. Tomb Zone

  In this level you are introduced to the concept of multiple floozes at 
once. Actually, they never pop up again until the final part in the same 
way although you have the potential for three at once in another scene. 
There's a lot of room for creativity and strategy. However, if one 
flooze runs out, your level is over. So you have to process two things 
at once. Fortunately you have enough time to do so.

  One thing you really need to avoid is to have the two floozes hit each 
other head on. They then reverse. Since squares flooze have traveled 
over may get destroyed, this is potentially disastrous. However, floozes 
can cross over each other with no problems, so this is very desirable 
and in fact quite a good common way to boost your points. You can also 
have one flooze follow another if you are a bit lazy. However in this 
case you need to note that, as two sinkholes appear, you won't be able 
to put both in the same sinkhole.

      SCENE 1: "Twins"
>........<
..........
..$....$..
..........
..$....$..
..........
..........

  You need to go through forty units of pipe. But that's really twenty 
units per twin.

  This is a nice introduction. It's fairly simple but you can begin to 
construct strategies based on crosses and the like. It's also a fairly 
lucrative level as you get double the normal potential for points 
without crosses--and many more opportunities for crosses. Once one 
flooze is gone you have a relatively trivial level which will allow you 
to construct crosses before exiting for a few extra bonus points. This 
holds true to a lesser extent for the next two scenes as well. Getting 
the coins is not that tough of an exercise. I recommend just going two 
squares in(right/left) and going down. Then the sinkholes will appear at 
the bottom. You shouldn't have to let the twins cross but if it can be 
managed, or if you can track one twin behind another(again, crosses or 
changing over an old piece of pipe help here,) you'll have eliminated a 
lot of tough work!

  I find that, when starting out, you'll have plenty of time to move 
back and forth between the two sections of pipe you've started to create 
when you see you can't make progress with a twin on one side. Early on 
no piece should be wasted and you should always be able to use some 
curvy piece to extend a twin's path. You will as always waste a lot of 
pipe but it's easier to hash out a use for wasted pipe with two floozes-
-even if it is tougher to keep them both under control.

  Finally, be sure to be extra protective of the shorter flooze. It's 
more likely to die and end your level, of course.

      SCENE 2: "Two Paths to Follow"

>.*.:::::S
....XXXXXX
*..*XX*.*.
....XX....
.*.*XX*..*
XXXXXX....
V:::::.*.<

  ** Ledger **

  : = what appears each time you run over a star. Regardless of the 
order of the stars the farthest away from the sinkhole is always 
revealed.

  Each time a flooze goes over stars it affects the other one--an 
interesting and surprising wrinkle. Therefore you can trap yourself 
amusingly(well, funny to those who don't have to complete this board) if 
you let one flooze down a sinkhole without clearing out all the stars on 
its side("well, I'm half done!") Still a standard clockwise loop for 
both should work out ok. Of course at the end you will have to adjust 
the loop so that the flooze can flow out into the sinkhole and you may 
have to let them mill around so that you can get enough horizontal 
pieces to reach the sinkhole without undue risk of damage, but this 
level is pretty straightforward once you get the loops set up.

      SCENE 3: "Binary Stars"

 ........<
.X.R..R.X.
$........$
...X..X...
$........$
.X.R..R.X.
>........

  The counter is set at twenty, so you need to have each flooze go 
through ten squares before the red gems appear.

  Note the dead ends one square away from each corner void square which 
will become a drop hole.

  This is a tricky level to understand, but once you know how to survive 
it should be no problem. Once the red gems appear, you need to pick up 
two of the four after which they vanish. You can generally pick up one 
with each snake although a more elegant solution is to run one snake's 
initial path through two red gems. Of course you have to time things so 
it picks up one and then the other. The cheapest and dirtiest way to do 
so normally is blocked off(I use corners as a security blanket) but I've 
listed a possible path below. With the other snake you just want to 
survive and avoid the red gems if possible. Perhaps you can make the red 
gem circle around--a good path is denoted in the diagram. Note the small 
X's in the diagram refer to a shortcut you can use to the sinkhole.

  I also recommend that to buy time you try to pick up all the coins 
first.

... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...
.SI xxx xXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XX. ... ...
.nk ... .X. ... ... ... ... .X. ... ...

... ... .X. ... ... ... ... .X. ... ...
... ... .X. ... ... ... XXX XX. ... ...
... ... .X. ... ... ... ... ... ... ...

... ... .X. ... ... ... ... ... ... ...
.XX XXX XX. ... .XX XX. ... XXX XXX XX.
.X. ... ... ... .X. .X. ... ... ... .X.

.X. ... ... ... ... .X. ... ... ... .X.
.X. ... ... ... ... .X. ... ... ... .X.
.X. ... ... ... ... .X. ... ... ... .X.

.X. ... ... ... ... .X. ... ... ... .X.
.XX XXX XXX XX. .XX XX. ... .XX .XX XX.
... ... ... .X. .X. ... ... .X. .X.. ...

... ... ... .X. .X. ... ... .X. ... ...
... ... ... .X. .XX XX. ... .X. ... ...
... ... ... .X. ... .X. ... .X. ... ...

... ... ... .X. ... .X. ... .X. ... ...
.>> XXX XXX XX. ... .XX XXX XXx xxx .SI
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .NK

    8.14. Mystic Zone

  This is probably the second most fun, to the jungle zone. You are 
exposed to one-way pipes rather extensively here. The new entities alone 
make things nerve-wracking, but the first two scenes allow a certain 
symmetrical pattern which should prepare you somewhat for the bizarre, 
intense and clever challenge of scene 3. It's interesting to watch how 
scene 1 only has curved one-way pieces, scene 2 has curved and cross 
pieces, and scene 3 has the regular assortment, but straight non-cross 
pieces are one-way. This level is never business as usual and if they'd 
all been like this or, rather, as distinctive as this, Pipe Dreams 3-d 
would be a masterpiece.

      SCENE 1: "One Way Twists"

v......!..
.+.....!..
..+.... ..
...+... ..
....+.. ..
.....+. ..
....... .S

  The first several pipe placements are not random. You get a bunch of 
<DL and UR> that can be placed above and below crosses respectively to 
form a pipeline that goes through each once. You'll also get a UL> which 
is followed by <UR and DL>. This allows you a way back through the pipes 
and starts a huge bonus--for the moment. You'll also have gotten the 
coin in the lower right which will open the right side to you. Now there 
are only really six pieces you need to complete the level and I want to 
describe what you need, when. There are two repetitive patterns you need 
to create to get to the sinkhole and you may need to stagger your work. 
It's a bit disorienting to get the right pieces and especially determine 
which way they work, but hopefully this can sort it out.

  You'll need to repeat two patterns to get through. It's the only way 
and I'll explain the proof below the diagram of the final walkthrough.

UPPER PART PATTERN:

... ...
./> >\.
.^. .v.

.^. .v.
>/. .\>
... ...

LOWER PART PATTERN:

... .v.
./< </.
.v. ...

.v. ...
.\> >\.
... .v.

  Note the last two squares of each formation are the same, but flipped 
in order of progression. You'll want to form each of these continually 
until they meet. Don't be afraid to start by the sinkhole and work your 
way up although obviously you'll also need to make sure the flooze can 
get through. Starting the pattern will initially cause you to bust a 
pipe you'd used before, and I recommend that instead of making the 
flooze go quickly you focus on other places where you can put the pipe. 
Note that before you twist from the upper part to the lower part, you 
need the same pipe piece every two squares to the right. Then you need 
the same pipe piece every two squares down.

  So here is the total level design below.

... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...
.V. ./> >\. ./> >\. ./> >\. ./> >\. ...
.V. .^. .V. .^. .V. .^. .V. .^. .V. ...

.V. .X. ... .^. .V. .^. .V. .^. .V. ...
.\> XXX >\. >/. .\> >/. .\> >/. .\> >\.
... .X. .V. ... ... ... ... ... ... .V.

... .^. .X. ... ... ... ... ... ... .V.
... .\< XXX <\. ... ... ... ... ./< </.
... ... .X. .^. ... ... ... ... .V. ...

... ... .V. .X. ... ... ... ... .V. ...
... ... .\> XXX >\. ... ... ... .\> >\.
... ... ... .X. .V. ... ... ... ... .V.

... ... ... .^. .X. ... ... ... ... .V.
... ... ... .\< XXX <\. ... ... ./< </.
... ... ... ... .X. .^. ... ... .V. ...

... ... ... ... .V. .X. ... ... .V. ...
... ... ... ... .\> XXX >\. ... .\> >\.
... ... ... ... ... .X. .V. ... ... .V.

... ... ... ... ... .^. .V. ... ... .SI
... ... ... ... ... .\< </. ... ... .NK
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...

  Incidentally note that you can never enter the sinkhole from the left 
using just diagonal pieces to get there. You'd need to go through a 
straight piece. Why? Note that when you leave the crosses for good, you 
leave horizontally and vertically alternately every other square 
regardless of which tube you use. Therefore if we take a look at the 
whole board we see how we leave each square(just use any pipes we want 
to get wherever we want.) For further proof label the board like a 
checkerboard and note that you must always move from a red square to a 
black square. So red<->horizontal and black<->vertical(assume black is 
in UL.)

VHVHVHVHVH
HVHVHVHVHV
VHVHVHVHVH
HVHVHVHVHV
VHVHVHVHVH
HVHVHVHVHV
VHVHVHVHVH

  So we leave the square right of the sing vertically. 
      SCENE 2: "Mystic Circle"

XX..<<..XX<-sinkhole will appear here
X./....\.X
..........
Xv..<...^X
..........
X.\..../.X
XX..>>..XX

  ** Ledger **

  /, \ = one-way diagonal pipes. They are all part of the 
counterclockwise pattern formed on this board. The combination of the 
two directions they face also go towards the center.

  This scene has curves, which allow you to create a circle around the 
board, and crosses, which allow you to exit and give you potential for 
huge multipliers. You'll have to do little more than place two pipes 
together in order to connect each of the eight one-way pipes(or pair of 
pipes) with the next. That should get you all the stars in short order; 
with eight groups of two pipes you will need four of each type. It's 
actually tougher to get in business. I generally like to use a DR and a 
UL and a DR from the starting point unless you turn up two crosses in a 
row--in this case the solution may be more easy to see. You shouldn't be 
throwing away diagonal pieces but rather should be looking for places 
they can be dropped. In general all you have to do is follow and rebuild 
the circle although there is a huge opportunity to build up some major 
points if you use your head with loops. The reduced choice in picking 
only curved pieces means loops are more viable although quite honestly I 
would not have seriously used the method if I hadn't left a demo mode 
running and borrowed the idea.

  Once you collect all the stars you will turn up some areas to the 
sides. Four blocks will disappear and the map will now look as follows:

XX..<<..XX
*./....\.*
..........
Xv..<...^X
..........
*.\..../.*
XX..>>..XX

  You'll need to loop around with a cross to get to the hidden areas. 
I'll show what you need to do in the UL star area.

... ...
.*X XX.
.X. .X.

.X. .X.
.XX XXX
... .X.

* = where the star is. Note that creating all four loops requires three 
of each piece so you should try to plan ahead. Also make sure to keep up 
the circle that runs around. Once you collect all four stars(the DL one 
should be the final one if you start as I recommend) you should be able 
to redirect the very UR square below the sinkhole from DL(used to pick 
up the star) to UL.

  I have an example of an ideal way to align the pipes here below. It 
shows a lot of ideas but don't expect to replicate it exactly. Also 
beware that and cross run through will disappear, so keep tabs on your 
supply of crosses and remember to rebuild continually.

... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .SI
... ... ... .XX <<< <<< XX. ... ... .NK
... ... ... .X. ... ... .X. ... ... ...

... ... ... .X. ... ... .X. ... ... .x.
.XX XX. ./< XXX XX. .XX XXX <\. .XX XX.
.X. .X. .V. .X. .X. .X. .X. .^. .X. .X.

.X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X.
.XX XXX XX. .XX XX. .XX XX. .XX XXX XX.
... .X. ... ... ... ... ... ... .X. ...

... .V. ... ... ... ... ... ... .^. ...
... .V. .XX XX. .XX XX. ... ... .^. ...
... .V. .X. .X. .X. .X. ... ... .^. ...

... .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. ... ... .X. ...
.XX XXX XXX XX. .XX XXX XX. .XX XXX XX.
.X. .X. .X. ... ... .X. .X. .X. .X. .X.

.X. .X. .V. ... ... .X. .X. .^. .X. .X.
.XX XX. .\> XX. ... .XX XXX >/. .XX XX.
... ... ... .X. ... ... .X. ... ... ...

... ... ... .X. ... ... .X. ... ... ...
... ... ... .XX >>> >>> XX. ... ... ...
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...

  Of course before you get all the stars the loops should be changed to 
the appropriate curved pipes.

  If youy do everything properly(or repeatedly) 200000 for the scene is 
actually not entirely out of the question. However given the relative 
difficulty of the other two scenes, the Beach Zone is still the easiest 
place overall for quick points. This way does have more excitement, 
though.

      SCENE 3: "One Way Plumbing"

.X.X...X..
.$.X.X..$.
.X.....X..
.X.X..$X.<
.X.....X..
.$.X.X..$.
.X.X...X..

  The object is to pick up the star and go back to the start where the 
sinkhole appears. Coins tend to appear and disappear but aren't really 
worth going after as you will have your hands full just creating the 
path to get out.

  This would be an easy level except for one thing: EXCEPT FOR THE 
CROSSES, THE STRAIGHT PIPES ARE ONE WAY. It's a major detail, of course, 
and it's an interesting variant on the plethora of one-way curved pieces 
you get in the first two levels. It's also an example of how hard one-
way pieces can make a previously moderately difficult level.

  The key to this level is to work out a path well ahead of you as 
pieces come up. If you do not you will be struggling and hoping for the 
right piece, which isn't going to happen. The pieces you need are pretty 
fixed with what I consider to be the best possible path; you don't want 
too many of the same piece, and you should be able to find enough curved 
pipes. The way I go through this level is shown below. Counterclockwise 
movement is assumed.

... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...

... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...
.XX <<< XX. ... ... ... .XX <<< XX. ...
.X. ... .X. ... ... ... .X. ... .X. ...

.V. ... .X. ... ... ... .X. ... .^. ...
.V. ... .XX <<< <<< <<< XX. ... .^. ...
.V. ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .^. ...

.V. ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .X. .SI
.V. ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .XX .NK
.V. ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...

.V. ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .X.
.V. ... .XX >>> XX. ... ... ... .XX XX.
.V. ... .X. ... .X. ... ... ... .X. ...

.X. ... .X. ... .V. ... ... ... .X. ...
.XX XXX XX. ... .V. ... .XX >>> XX. ...
... ... ... ... .V. ... .X. ... ... ...

... ... ... ... .X. ... .X. ... ... ...
... ... ... ... .XX >>> XX. ... ... ...
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...

  Perhaps it would be advisable to use curved pipes to go two squares 
above where I have three R->L blocks in a row above. Also remember that 
if one piece(any) you have correctly placed for the future stays alone 
too long it disappears so if you have a diagonal piece you can't seem to 
use, connect the two. There is almost always some way you can.

    8.15. Radiation Zone

  I find this one harder than the Ruined Zone for the first two levels 
but easier for the third. 

      SCENE 1: "Temple of Doom"

.....X....
.XXX...XX.
X...XXX.X!
>....!..*.
X....X..X.
X....X..X.
XX...X$$X!

  It's not nice to give a potentially random introductory level such as 
this and then not give a person any lives to start out. A big key to 
this level is being able to construct the ending sequence as quickly as 
possible when you have a piece that doesn't seem to fit anywhere in your 
current pattern. You will have to move quickly near the end, too, 
because there is a trap that sneaks behind you and goes quicker than the 
flooze. It can swallow the flooze before it has the potential to pour 
out, yet at the same time if you don't concentrate on the narrow passage 
to the drain, the flooze will pour out way too quickly. So start early. 
You'll use a UL and UR at the bottom of the screen but DL and DR's 
should be connected(even if they are obviously wrong, i.e. in two 
squares in the UL corner.) Eventually you should get flat pieces that 
you can put together, although I've been a victim of distressing 
randomizations where I feel I've done everything right and just haven't 
gotten enough straight pieces. The only way to buy yourself time is to 
make a detour or two with curvy pipe pieces.

  There's a trap at the beginning of the level(when you walk over the 
first !) that pretty much assures your flooze will be cut in half. The 
square right of the entry turns into a block, and I don't believe I've 
ever saved over 50% of the flooze in this level without taking a major 
detour in the DL open area. With it 

  Note that, although on normal and hard levels, the trap that's behind 
you and changes squares to blocks goes quicker than the flooze's normal 
rate(you can actually speed up, although that has other disadvantages,) 
once you have all pieces in place the flooze accelerates to as fast as 
the trap.

  My favorite pattern is to go to the right with a slight curve, detour 
for the two coins, and exit. Note that the starting point changes into a 
sinkhole.

  The final pattern I recommend is detailed below.

... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...
.XX XXX XXX XXX XXX XX. ... .XX XXX XX.
.X. ... ... ... ... .X. ... .X. ... .X.

.X. ... ... ... ... .X. ... .X. ... .X.
.X. ... ... ... ... .XX XXX XX. ... .X.
.X. ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .X.

.X. ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .X.
.X. ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .X.
.X. ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .X.

... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .X.
.>> XXX XX. .XX XXX XXX XXX XX. .XX XX.
... ... .X. .X. ... ... ... .X. .X. ...

... ... .X. .X. ... ... ... .X. .X. ...
... ... .X. .X. ... ... ... .X. .X. ...
... ... .X. .X. ... ... ... .X. .X. ...

... ... .X. .X. ... ... ... .X. .X. ...
... ... .X. .X. ... ... ... .X. .X. ...
... ... .X. .X. ... ... ... .X. .X. ...

... ... .X. .X. ... ... ... .X. .X. ...
... ... .XX XX. ... ... ... .XX XX. ...
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...

  Naturally the end part is pretty much forced so you will want to move 
ahead to put stuff in(don't forget to link pieces together there so they 
don't disappear.) The more you get done in advance the better and the 
more time you take to get it done is also the better.

  No real opportunities for crossing but I was able to save 100% by 
making a few extra curves.

      SCENE 2: "Archaeology"

...>......
..........
X..XXX.X.X
$XXXXXXXXX
^XVXX<XX$X
XXXXXX$XXV
X$X@XXXXX$

 ** Ledger **

 @ = oneway UR> pipe

  In this level you must clear out all the coins. It obviously requires 
patience and several levels of processing. You start out with four 
bombs, and in my opinion the best places to put it are at the following 
squares:

...>......
..........
X..XXX.1.4
$XXXXXX23X
^XVXX<XX$X
XXXXXX$XXV
X$X@XXXXX$

  After that start you get 3 LR squares which you should use to get to 
the edge. A small finesse is to place the rightmost one first. As things 
stand now you will be able to curve around and wait for the random bombs 
to show up. I'll show the loop below.

... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...
.XX XXX XXX .>> XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XX.
.X. ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .X.

.X. ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .X.
.X. ... .XX XXX XXX XXX XXX XX. ... .X.
.X. ... .X. ... ... ... ... .X. ... .X.

.X. ... .X. ... ... ... ... .X. ... .X.
.XX XXX XX. ... ... ... ... .XX XXX XX.
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...

(Note--this requires taking out the UL block. Do so ASAP. In general 
you'll want to take out one row of blocks, then the next, etc.)

  My strategy is to keep placing stuff everywhere and just hold out 
until I've bombed the entire board. Oddly I find a clockwise circle 
works best here although it will be a bit narrow at the beginning.

  Slowly but surely as you bomb more stuff out of the way you'll get 
more bombs and work your way to the bottom. Your circle will grow larger 
and you will be able to start to direct it to pick up coins. Use curved 
pieces whenever possible to free up time and also space to drop pieces 
of pipe.

  For practical purposes, after you have cleared everything out you may 
need two trips around to solve this one. However I'll put my 'pipe 
dream'(heh) solution below and you can smooth out the parts that aren't 
completely practical.

.X. ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .X.
.X. ... .XX XXX XXX XXX XX. ... ... .X.
.X. ... .X. ... ... ... .X. ... ... .X.

.^. ... .V. ... ... ... .X. ... ... .X.
.^. ... .V. ... ... ... .X. .XX XX. .X.
.^. ... .V. ... ... ... .X. .X. .X. .X.

.X. ... .X. ... ... ... .X. .X. .X. .V.
.X. ... .X. ... ... ... .XX XX. .X. .V.
.X. ... .X. ... ... ... ... ... .X. .V.

.X. ... .X. .V. ... ... ... ... .X. .X.
.XX XXX XX. .\> ... ... ... ... .XX XX.
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...

      SCENE 3: "Guarded Coin"

XXXX......
X..X.XX.X2
...X......
.$...X.X.<
...X......
X..X.XX.X1
XXXX......

1,2 = where star appears

  You only have to get one star in this level but it will be a tricky 
one. Still it never seems as annoyingly unfair as the previous level. 
The basic premise is that you pick up a star, pick up the coin while 
invisible, and get out. The game is nice in that it doesn't put the 
block back once you've grabbed the coin; however, if you go for the coin 
and don't make it you are in SERIOUS trouble given that it is in a small 
area and you will start hitting a block and losing flooze.

  The beginning is a bit annoying as the computer doesn't seem to like 
to shell out the right curvy pipes at first.

  A sample of how I go about business is listed below. Generally I loop 
around twice counterclockwise before I have all the pieces I need to 
enter the compartment. I also try to set things up so I have the right 
pieces handy, i.e. a DL and UR to replace the parts of the circle 
bordering on the compartment. Then I just start chucking pieces wherever 
until I get a UR or DR that will lead me out of the compartment and the 
trip back should be pretty smooth--I'll only need to change one curvy 
piece to enter the sinkhole. I've been able to save all the flooze.

... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...
... ... ... ... .XX XXX XXX XXX XXX XX.
... ... ... ... .X. ... ... ... ... .X.

... ... ... ... .X. ... ... ... ... .X.
... .XX XX. ... .X. ... ... ... ... .X.
... .X. .X. ... .X. ... ... ... ... .X.

... .X. .X. ... .X. ... ... ... ... .X.
.XX XX. .X. ... .X. ... ... ... .XX XX.
.X. ... .X. ... .X. ... ... ... .X. ...

.X. a.. .X. ... bX. ... ... ... cX. ...
.XX XXX XXX XXX .X. ... ... ... .XX <<.
... ... .X. ... .X. ... ... ... ... ...

... .X. .X. ... dX. ... ... ... eX. ...
... .X. .X. ... .X. XXX XXX XXX .XX .X.
... .X. .X. ... .X. ... ... ... ... .X.

... .X. .X. ... .X. ... ... ... ... .X.
... .XX XX. ... .X. ... ... ... ... .X.
... ... ... ... .X. ... ... ... ... .X.

... ... ... ... .X. ... ... ... ... .X.
... ... ... ... .XX XXX XXX XXX XXX XX.
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...

  Square a should be converted to a DR, b should be converted to a DL, c 
to a UD, d to a UR, e to a LR. The c can be done during the first loop 
but the others may require a bit of luck. The method to solve this level 
will never be foolproof but you should be able to do pretty well; if you 
don't make it in time convert the cross to a UR or if you must a DR. 
That will buy some time to circle around and get out.

    8.16. Ruined Zone

  The third scene is really vicious. You have to make sure you get the 
right cycling and in fact you need the same sort of thing for scene one, 
which has the paradox that a shorter flooze may be safer for you long-
term.

      SCENE 1

.........
.........
.........
........<
.........
XXXXX....
.*..X....
....1....
....X....

  * Ledger *

1-this square closes off once you grab the star.

  Once you manage to get the star, the lower left part closes up. I 
really don't see how to save most of the Flooze so you'll have to settle 
for less than perfection in this scenario. Fortunately all you really 
have to do is to tread water and then wait for the right piece to come 
along. If you want to risk things then you can place a DR and begin to 
move clockwise before collecting the star, but I prefer to play it safe 
and go counterclockwise. The flooze will be shorter, but you'll have 
more time to react to a piece that is knocked out. With the longer 
flooze you will quickly wind up without the right piece to replace 
anywhere in sight and the action will be much more spur-of-the-moment. 
It's a classic case where more flooze may be more dangerous to survival. 
Your goals should be:

1. Enter the lower left chamber. This requires standard pipe placement 
and if you can get a LR at (1) then just annex a diagonal piece or even 
a 4-way to it so it doesn't disappear. By now you should be able to 
direct the flow to any square you want.

2. Once in the compartment, wait for the clanging noise that concurs 
with the squares blinking on the outside to stop. It gets slower with 
each iteration and can be annoying but oh well. In the meantime you will 
need to circle around.

3. Continue to circle around, but now instead of wasting tubes remember 
that you can start connecting to the outside and start focusing on 
making a pipe that goes to the drain. You'll need a DR and a 

  Note that the probabilities are aligned pretty well. The place you 
will tread water along is 10 squares(counterclockwise)

      SCENE 2: "Three flows"

X.......X
1.......3
X.......X
2.......2
X.......X
3.......1
X.......X

  ** Ledger **

1,2,3: where flow start(left side) and where the drains open when you 
get coins(right side.)

  On this board, you have three coins placed at random(bronze, then 
silver when you get them, then gold.) In addition, when you pick up the 
first three coins, you activate another flow and cause a sinkhole to 
appear in addition to putting the next color of coin out. Some thinking 
ahead is necessary and you may lose a life or two taking notes about 
what is where. But once you know all that it is possible to set so much 
up in advance that this level is a relative breeze.

  If you aren't quite able to plan ahead then don't worry. It is not too 
bad to have two flows going at once even though if either one runs out 
you los a life. I don't know what happens if they meet head on so try to 
avoid that(although crossing is just fine,) but it shouldn't be too 
tough to avoid picking up three gold coins(just make a big circle 
skirting the outside of the board and eventually change the square left 
of 1 to suck the first flow in there.)

  You don't have to put any one flow in any one drain, but it's good to 
be expedient and think ahead so you can dump a flow in the one that's 
just appeared in short order.

      SCENE 3: "Peepo"

>...!...*
.......XX
.....!..*
.......XX
......!.*
.......XX
?.....!.*
.......XX
......!.*

 ** Ledger **
 ! = where the stars go out to

  Hey! What gives? The stars on the right, if you go in and get them, 
are a dead end. It's a nasty trap and I guess it was naive of me to 
think I could just guess which opened up which barriers. The actual way 
to win is roundabout.

  The object in this level is to coax the stars out of hiding and then 
go and pick them up. To do so you must run over the star on the left and 
accelerate to run over the star which moves to the left, waits, and goes 
back to the right if you are not quick enough. This presents a second 
problem; you can't catch the star at normal speed. So you'll have to 
accelerate. That means you'll need to have your pipe infrastructure 
settled well in advance, likely when you are chugging towards the star 
in the first place. And it's probably best to go in a clockwise motion 
and to be moving up when you touch the star.

  The stars get more shy and reticent as you pick each one up. You have 
to go farther right for each one, but actually it will take you less 
time to get there. The problem is that they're out for less time so 
there's less time to accelerate.

  After you've collected the next-to-last star, a bunch of exclamation 
marks will start floating about. They signify that the board is about to 
develop bumps and any part of the flooze caught there(or pipe) will be 
destroyed. This can be a quick death if you don't remember where 
everything is. The bumps create a board as you may see below.

..........
..........
....X.....
..X...X.XX
....X.....
*.X...X.XX
....X....*

  So you may wish to make a slight detour around the bottom leftmost X 
to keep your flooze longer; there may be anxious moments while creating 
your pipeline that circles around.

  The best way through this board is shown below. I have cut off the top 
three rows, which you do not use. If you can, try to get things going 
counterclockwise, and also you may wish to have a pipeline just to the 
left of where the stars were started, going up and curving right to the 
end sinkhole in the upper right. In other words, when approaching the 
star, don't rush things. Keep ditching pieces until you get what you 
want, and remember, the squares where the stars used to be are also good 
places for discards when everything else seems filled up.

... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...
... ... ... .XX XXX XX. ... ... ... ...
... ... ... .X. ... .X. ... ... ... ...

... ... ... .X. ... .X. ... ... ... ...
.XX XXX XXX XX. ... .XX XXX XX. ... ...
.X. ... ... ... ... ... ... .X. ... ...

.X. ... ... ... ... ... ... .X. ... ...
.XX XX. ... .XX XXX XX. ... .X. ... ...
... .X. ... .X. ... .X. ... .X. ... ...

... .X. ... .X. ... .X. ... .X. ... ...
... .XX XXX XX. ... .XX XXX XX. ... ...
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...

  It's a bit quicker to go counterclockwise as that leaves you a free 
path to the top but you should be able to hack your way through the 
other way too, which should be overall slightly safer(you don't need a 
vertical piece so quickly.)

    8.17. North Pole Zone

  Given that scene 2 is a serious potential stopper, if you find 
yourself stuck on this level I would recommend going through level 1 
first to give you a few cracks at it. There are timing and chance issues 
which may fluster you. However the two have patterns that can be 
replicated from one corner to the other three and are very passable.

      SCENE 1: "Tight Corners"

*.  ..  .*
.XX....XX.
 X.*..*.X
 ....>...
 X.*..*.X
.XX....XX.
*.  ..  .*

  I found this level quite manageable. Remember that you want to hit all 
four stars quickly, but not too quickly as every time you pick up a star 
you have three bombs to use, and you must use all twelve bombs 
correctly. Of course using bombs precludes laying pipes, which may put 
you in a bit of a fix as you are not immediately able to create a circle 
for the flooze to run in. I found placing a DR and UR pipe on the upper 
and lower left stars respectively(or one square outside of them) gets 
the level off to a great start. If you get two UL pipes in a row then 
you can place one at the starting trough, but on the right side you may 
want to place at least one curvy pipe away from the star. You need to 
buy a bit of time and if you have recourse to put another curve in that 
will definitely give you time to use all the bombs. Since with each star 
you pick up you get three bombs, use each arsenal to hit three squares 
to gain access to the star there. Getting the bombs is not too bad. 
Using them is pretty intuitive although if you slip it is very 
tough(you'll have to time things to come out of a corner with a very 
short flooze. See 4.11.2 for more details.) The hard part is starting to 
build the loop and expand it so it can reach the corners.

  This is what the board looks like after the bombs have removed all the 
cut-aways. You'll want to get all four stars. This is not as bad as it 
looks.

XXXXXXXXX
X*.XXX.*X
X.......X
XX.....XX
XX.....XX
XX.....XX
X.......X
X*.XXX.*X
XXXXXXXXX

  The main pieces you need in the corners are listed below:
    4 4W(1 per corner)
    3 UL(in each corner except UL)
    3 UR
    3 DL
    3 DR
    A bunch of straight pieces to link 

  They should be organized as follows but the order in which they are 
organized is not too important in general:

... ...        ... ...
.XX XX. [[[]]] .XX XX.
.X. .X.        .X. .X.

.X. .X.        .X. .X.
.XX XXX [[[]]] XXX XX.
... .X.        .X. ...

[vertical stuff]

... .X.        .X. ...
.XX XXX        XXX XX.
.X. .X.        .X. .X.

.X. .X.        .X. .X.
.XX XX.        .XX XX.
... ...        .......


  ...with horizontal and vertical links of course.

  In other words, the corners loop and you just put a bunch of straight 
pieces together to link everything up. Since you'll have another turn 
through the maze before everything disappears feel free to wait for the 
right curvy piece that might pour into a straight piece near wherever 
the drain appears.

  You should also, when given a cross you can't place at one of the 
squares near the corner, and you can place it in a column or row 
connecting corner crosses, place it horizontally between two crosses(and 
not vertically.) This will put the odds slightly in your favor as you 
neeed to fill more horizontal than vertical squares(the board is wider 
than it is tall.)

      SCENE 2: "Ping Pong"

=........
2.......4
.........
X~~~~~~~X
.........
3.......1
.........

  * Ledger *

~ = where lethal square bounces back and forth

  This one looks simple but has the nuisance of the pong-ball square 
that sucks everything under and bounces back and forth. The annoying 
sound doesn't help either. There are four stars that appear one square 
away vertically in each corner: DR, UL, DL, UR. Once you've got them all 
the middle is no longer risky except for the one square where the pong 
square gets frozen, and you can probably try to pick up gold coins on 
the bottom with little risk of losing by now. Although the first time 
through, your goal is probably to try to complete the game, so frivolous 
diversions to gain points may not be kosher. Despite its simplicity, I 
would say this is the toughest of the level 17 scenes, so that's extra 
incentive not to dally once the gold coins pop up.

  But on to the walkthrough. First thing to be aware of is that if the 
pong square takes out the flooze then the previous pipe gets knocked out 
too. So timing is extra critical as otherwise you have to make up two 
squares instead of one(the usual when you drop pipes around--no chain 
reaction) and the flooze is still pouring. With how quick the pong 
square is you may do best to try to fight for survival by going in a 
circle and regroup.

  For a while I tried using a DR next to the spout where the flooze 
started(and where the sinkhole appears,) and going straight down, 
waiting for the 'death-box' to pass by(a timing issue--one travel back 
and forth is equivalent to you traveling two squares at regular speed) 
and putting in a bunch of vertical squares and hoping to make it down to 
a beginning infrastructure. The flaw in this is that I should have 
developed the beginning infrastructure first. It's perfectly okay to 
start with the DR but a surer way to complete the level is to create a 
circular loop covering the top. Then after you've built up some 
infrastructure below, head down. It's a bit tricky to get past the pong 
box but hopefully this will help. If you get caught by the pong box then 
the square you were on will disappear and not just the one in the box. 
That's losing two squares for the price of one, and it's almost always 
lethal.

  In general you need to work ahead to the half of the board you're not 
moving across, because otherwise you will be scrambling for the right 
pieces and after a few times through the center your flooze won't amount 
to much unless you are very patient or lucky. You need to be prepared 
for accidents.

  So how to avoid the pong box? First and most importantly, always be 
sure to use the squares on the edge. When the pong box passes by you 
will have the most time to get by, and note that the edge squares are 
the only ones covered once when the box bounces back and forth(others 
are hit twice.) Second of all, accelerate once you're in the danger 
zone. You won't make it by much, if at all, if you go at regular speed. 
Third of all, given that you'll be speeding up, plan ahead(it's been 
mentioned before, but yeah, it's worth repeating. Your brain will 
overload trying to rush through and still plot pipe placement otherwise-
-I know from extensive experience.) You may even plan ahead to the point 
that you have a pipe to the next star you want to pick up. It's worth 
going around the track twice especially since the pong box has one nice 
feature you'll need to take advantage of; although it destroys every 
piece of pipe it runs across, that works to your advantage if you are 
just trying to chuck pieces of pipe. Given that you need to work both 
sides of the board creating circular loops, this is a great repository 
so that your hard work does not get messed up. Finally of course make 
sure you pick up a star each time you traverse a half of the 
board(except when you come out of the chute.) It would be disheartening 
to find you hadn't although with my looping strategy around the edge of 
each area this should be a given. Finally, remember you'll need to 
change part of the loop you're in to go into the pong zone and you'll 
want to have curved pipes above and below where you intend to cross. And 
don't forget, when you're ready to thrust forward, be sure to have the 
right 'next' piece ready to go--UD or 4W. This requires more 
persisterverence than any scene except 17-2 and the next one is not as 
big of a challenge as this.

      SCENE 3: "Tighter Corners"

*.X*..*X.*
...X..X...
X........X
.X......X.
.X......X.
.X......X.
.X......X.
X........X
...X..X...
*.X*..*X.*

  This scene has shock value and you may pitch a few guys just getting 
your bearing, but it is not so bad once you learn how to navigate the 
corners. Each one is navigated similarly. I'll include the upper left 
below. Don't worry so much about how you enter it(the diagonally-in-
from-the-corner square can be anything when you enter but must be 
changed to a + to leave or your trail of flooze may have to get 
dangerously short) but you may want to manipulate the way you leave it, 
especially if you have infrastructure set up somewhere else.

  ** upper left chamber pipe structure **

... ... ...
.XX XX. ...
.X. .X. ...

.X. .X. ...
.XX XXX XX.
... .X. .X.

... .X. .X.
... .XX XXX
... ... .X.

  It's worth it to mill around while building up the infrastructure to 
deal with a corner, although I also find that even if it isn't fully 
there you can just junk a bunch of tiles until you get the right one if 
you're one tile away. It's better than watching your hard work 
disappear.

  Before picking up your fourth corner star you may want to make sure 
you have a good route provided to go ahead; it may be tough to plan the 
flooze's path on the fly because you only get four bombs and have to 
make them count. Basically you want to start building a circle that will 
touch all four stars.

  After picking up all four corner stars, you then get four bombs and 
will need to make the most of them. A bit of thought should reveal that, 
for each star in the center, you will want to take out one block 
adjacent to it, as otherwise there will be a star in the dead end, 
making the level unsolvable. Either square works to release a star but I 
recommend taking out the ones not on the edges. This will allow for the 
shortest loop that can take out the four stars, and then the drain 
should be pretty easy to find.

  So the strategy is:

1. go to each corner to get the stars
2. use bombs to create a rectangle and make it so stars are not dead 
ends.
3. make a long loop to take out the four stars
4. find the drain

  You should find that the first part is the toughest. There's a bit of 
chance involved when you decide to make your move(milling around is not 
terribly easy or relaxing in the crowded quarters) but you should 
generally try to create corner infrastructure whenever you can.

     8.18. Space Zone

  The intro scene is cute I guess but thankfully it can be skipped as 
well when you want to get down to business.

  This is the only level with four scenes and it is a bit of a 
potpourri. No scene is unduly taxing although I found that going through 
level 1 first disperses any lingering effects of randomness that may 
otherwise conspire to finish your game early and annoy you.

      SCENE 1: "Clear the Way"

.......XXX
=...... XX
.......  X
....... XX
....... X 
....... XX
.......  !

  Given that you will never particularly want for bombs(they come up 
randomly but regularly,) this doesn't seem too bad until you realize 
that the board slowly disappears(the leftmost column will always 
disappear top to bottom) as time goes on. The best way to combat this is 
to move immediately to the right and to try to use the leftmost as dump 
squares whenever possible. If you stay on the left too long your pipe 
may be cut off with the flooze that goes through it. This can lead to 
quick and drastic losses.

  Once you start bombing away you can also use the far right as dump 
squares but when everything is clear you should start planning ahead and 
drawing up the pipes that will help the flooze escape into the DR 
corner. While there's really only one way to get through the bottom part 
you should be aware that you might have other options for what's on top. 
You want to keep the UR square as a DL and the square DL of that as an 
UR. Then you can have the flooze flow through either one as you strive 
to junk pieces you don't need while completing the bottom part.

  The far right must contain, in order of your traversal: 1 DL(in the UR 
square or 1 below it, depending on how the UR is organized) 1 DR, 1 DL, 
1 UR, 1 UL. So in other words once the flooze can flow to the far right 
there is always a spot to put a curvy pipe, at least to start. Naturally 
a 4W can serve double duty in many places and this helps your odd as you 
build the winding pipe in the DR area or the straight UR area pipe.

  To get to the right side of the screen I generally try to create a 
loop and if it is going clockwise, just use LR/4W's to get to the right 
side, and if it is going counterclockwise, use a DR at the top and LR/4W 
to the right of it.

      SCENE 2: "Bomb a Path"

=.XXXXXXX.
XXXX.XXXXX
X.XXXXX.XX
XXXX..XXXX
XXX.XXXX.X
.XXXXX.XXX
XXXXX.XXXX
X.XXXXXXXv
  Well this certainly seems daunting. There's not a whole lot of places 
to go at first. But fortunately there seems to be a set pattern for 
pipes and bombs that appear at the level's beginning, and that makes 
this scene much easier than it appears.

  5e 3s 4e(bombing the squares first) and either e 3s or s e 2s should 
do the trick. The pipes at the start of the level always seem to be 
similar and this should give you a huge head start, and also this zigzag 
seems to take advantage of a lot of open holes and even give you an 
option near the end. You also seem to get a lot of horizontal pieces at 
the start so after bombing ahead you want to be constantly alert to the 
possibility of putting pipes in the later regions.

  Also be aware of what comes right after a bomb; if you see a piece 
that would fit in well in a square you can bomb, go for that. Saving a 
bit of time here or there can be wonderful. You can probably expect to 
lose half your flooze on this level so don't panic about that, but on 
the other hand you need to finesse to save as much time as you can.

  Below is a diagram of how to get through the level.

... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...
.>> XXX XXX XXX XX. ... ... ... ... ...
... ... ... ... .X. ... ... ... ... ...

... ... ... ... .X. ... ... ... ... ...
... ... ... ... .X. ... ... ... ... ...
... ... ... ... .X. ... ... ... ... ...

... ... ... ... .X. ... ... ... ... ...
... ... ... ... .X. ... ... ... ... ...
... ... ... ... .X. ... ... ... ... ...

... ... ... ... .X. ... ... ... ... ...
... ... ... ... .XX XXX XXX XXX XXx xx.
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .X. .x.

... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .X. .x.
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .XX XX.
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .X.

... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .X.
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .X.
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .X.

... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .SI
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .NK
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...

      SCENE 3: "Four Flows"

1--- XX -5
XX  |X  XX
2-+++ | -6
XX| +++ XX
3-+-++  -7
XX|X +- XX
4- XX ---8

  ** Ledger **
  1-4 = starts of flooze
  5-8 = sinkholes

  Fortunately there are a lot of opportunities for bonuses--and extra 
guys(I've racked up 400000 from just starting on level 18 and dying a 
few times)--here and if you get things going you can get x7 or 
better(maximum I remember is x10. The important thing to know here is 
where you should put your first few curved pieces(straight pipes are all 
fixed and you only get curved pieces;) they are all you are going to get 
in this scene, and as having any one of the four flooze flows stopped up 
will cause a level re-start.

  The best way to work things out may be to work by reverse reasoning. 
Some of the positionings of curved pipes are obvious. You should work 
out first the obvious things and then what goes where. Note that two 
floozes cannot go to the same sinkhole as a sinkhole vanishes when it is 
filled. Note the potential for dead ends(particularly pipes placed in 
the wrong direction) so if you want to waste pipes be sure they've 
already filled their duties.

  ** Spoiler, level 1 **

  Ok, one last chance. Try to write down a map and track everything 
down.

  My choice for what goes where is as follows:

  1 -> 7
  2 -> 8(this should be the most obvious one)
  3 -> 5
  4 -> 6

  You can actually switch things, 4->7 and 1->6, but this requires 
changing a pipe flooze has already flown through.

  ** Spoiler, level 2 **

... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...
.1> XXX XXX XXX XX. ... ... .XX XXX >5.
... ... ... ... .X. ... ... .X. ... ...

... ... ... ... .X. ... ... .X. ... ...
... ... .XX XX. .X. ... .XX XX. ... ...
... ... .X. .X. .X. ... .X. ... ... ...

... ... .X. .X. .X. ... .X. ... ... ...
.2> XXX XXX XXX XXX XX. .X. .XX XXX >6.
... ... .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. ... ...

... ... .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. ... ...
... ... .X. .XX XXX XXX XXX XX. ... ...
... ... .X. ... .X. .X. .X. ... ... ...

... ... .X. ... .X. .X. .X. ... ... ...
.3> XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XX. .XX XXX >7.
... ... .X. ... .X. .X. ... .X. ... ...

... ... .X. ... .X. .X. ... .X. ... ...
... ... .X. ... .XX .X. XXX XX. ... ...
... ... .X. ... ... .X. ... ... ... ...

... ... .X. ... ... .X. ... ... ... ...
.4> XXX XX. ... ... .XX XXX XXX XXX >8.
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...

  Note the following totals:

...
.XX DR, need 5 to complete level
.X.

.X.
.XX UR, need 3 to complete level
...

...
... DL, need 3 to complete level
...

...
... UL, need 5 to complete level
...

  Therefore there is a slight premium on the UL/DR pieces.

      SCENE 4: "The Final Level"

..........
..........
..........
.........S
..........
. ........
..........

  This is a good final scene; basically you need to fill up as much of 
the board with an ooze path as you can. Once you've gone through sixty 
squares the sinkhole opens up. The ooze never disappears, so if you work 
yourself into a hole this level may be a bit quicker than you want. In 
the bottom right you will be able to reference how many squares you need 
to fill before the sinkhole appears, which is a good way to track your 
progress. There's no way to track how much ooze can fall out before you 
lose it, but it seems to be the regular amount. You can probably afford 
three regular slip ups. You can and should occasionally sacrifice a bit 
when necessary to keep your maze compact because it's easier than in 
most levels to work yourself into a dead end, and once you do there may 
be no way out(you can't make a pipe disappear.) You should also find a 
good place to ditch items at the beginning when you don't need them. 
Don't be afraid to do so quickly and be sure to dump them so either 
a)they disappear quickly or b)they form the sort of pattern you want. 
For instance at some time you will want to move through the lower left 
corner, so you may want to link a few pipes together down there.

  ** Theoretical Detour **

  Note that the hole in the bottom left, where the sinkhole eventually 
appears, changes things a bit in another way. Assume we never use a 
cross. If we color the 7x10 board like a chessboard we notice that there 
are originally 35 red and black. If we drop the one square(call it 
white) and consider that the starting square is the same color, we 
notice that there are really only 67 and not 69 squares(besides the 
start) you can traverse, since you alternate between white and black 
squares--even if you use a cross. That is because after 68 squares 
you'll have covered 34 white and 34 black. You'll be on a black square, 
and the last ones remaining will be black.

  You can actually fill all the squares in but you need to follow the 
stipulation I mention: the number of black squares you cross through = 
the number of white squares you cross through + 1. Since in the 
paragraph above we count every square we go through, we note that going 
through a cross disrupts this count. Going through a black cross the 
second time means that we've gone through a black square but can't count 
it again. Similar for a white cross/white square. At the end of our 
journey we'll need the black squares = white squares = 35(70 total) 
meaning we'll have to 'lose' a black square somehow. Going through a 
cross is the only way.

  ** End Detour **

  So you have 60 squares to fill before the drain appears and 68 open 
squares. Crosses are very nice in this level as they allow you in effect 
an extra square of space, but don't be too enamored of them; if they 
cause you to miss another square you could have gotten by normal 
methods, the whole deal is a wash except for the crossing bonus you get 
in the end. If they cause you to miss two squares then you have probably 
not calculated or planned as well as you could have. Generally tight 
curves are the best ways to use crosses.

  When playing this level I like to start off by creating a cross and 
not just because it's an emotional buoy('I'm conserving space already!') 
For instance if you are able to create the following structure, or a 
vertical mirror image:

... ...
.XX XX.
.X. .X.

.X. .X.
.X. .X.
.X. .X.

.X. .X.
XXX XX.
.X. ...

.X. ...
.XX XX. <--start
... ...

  You can then create a horizontal mirror image of the next six squares. 
Note that corners can be particularly tough to paint in so don't be 
afraid to pause the game if you have to and plan it out. You may have 
the screen blocked and darkened when you pause it, but this sort of 
planning can save time in a long run if you nail things immediately. I 
find that setting up a cross works well in the early going, but with 
time pressure on, if I try to get cute with it I generally goof.

  Curvy pipe works well to paint in the corners; for instance whichever 
way you go from the start(up or down) the other vertical half will be 
tough to fill in. You'll probably need to do something such as below to 
get things straight:

... ... ...
XXX XXX XX.
... ... .X.

... ... .X.
.XX XX. .X.
.X. .X. .X.

.X. .X. .X.
XX. .XX XX.
... ... ...

  This can also be vertically flipped in the same corner; I guess it 
partially depends on what pieces you get. If you get the horizontal ones 
first, buy time putting them where they will do good. Making curves from 
the corner is also safer than making curves from your already connected 
pipe as if you start the curves at the wrong time you may wind up 
wasting a square.

  It is important, though, to paint the corners, as they are the 
toughest area to figure what to do with, and even leaving a few open can 
force much more exacting work elsewhere. The upper left may be a good 
place to use a cross, especially since you'll find a use for the 
unintuitive diagonal pieces. To wit:

... ... ...
.XX XX. .XX
.X. .X. .X.

.X. .X. .X.
.XX XXX XX.
... .X. ...

... .X. ...
.XX XX. ...
.X. ... ...

  However, be sure to work things this way as if you use a straight bar 
to the left of/below the cross, the square above/to the right of it 
can't be filled in. Unless you manage to use a cross and loop back 
around again. In fact, near the end I recommend the following if you can 
finesse it. Put a cross above and to the right of the sinkhole, a curvy 
pipe below it into the sinkhole, and then you will pick up double points 
for all the flooze that pours into it. With an astronomically larger 
than usual flooze bonus, this could really make your score rise by as 
much as a half million. It also allows the luxury of an extra unused 
space. Diagram below.

... ...
.XX XX.
.X. .X.

.X. .X.
.X. .X.
.X. .X.

.X. .X.
.XX XXX
... .X.

HO. .X.
LE. XX.
... ...

  If you really want a spoiler then I've included the plans for the sort 
of way I'd go about a level. It's actually more achievable than you'd 
think although I've noted some emergency nuances at the bottom. The key 
is of course to plan ahead ten to fifteen squares. Don't wait on exactly 
the next piece you need to come up. If you get close to this you should 
be in business.

... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...
.XX XX. .XX XX. .XX XX. .XX XX. .XX XX.
.X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X.

.X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X.
.XX XXX XX. .XX XX. .XX XXX XX. .X. .X.
... .X. ... ... ... ... .X. ... .X. .X.

... .X. ... ... ... ... .X. ... .X. .X.
.XX XX. .XX XX. .XX XX. .XX XXX XXX XX.
.X. ... .X. .X. .X. .X. ... ... .X. ...

.X. ... .X. .X. .X. .X. ... ... .X. ...
.X. .XX XXX XX. .X. .X. .XX XX. .XX <<.
.X. .X. .X. ... .X. .X. .X. .X. ... ...

.X. .X. .X. ... .X. .X. .X. .X. ... ...
.X. .XX XXX XXX XX. .XX XX. .XX XXX XX.
.X. ... .X. ... ... ... ... ... ... .X.

.X. .SI .X. ... ... ... ... ... ... .X.
.X. .NK XX. .XX XX. .XX XX. .XX XX. .X.
.X. ... ... .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X.

.X. ... ... .X. .X. ... .X. .X. .X. .X.
.XX XXX XXX XX. .XX XX. .XX XX. .XX XX.
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...

  Also below is a way to get through without using crosses, just for 
fun.

... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...
.XX XX. .XX XX. .XX XXX XX. .XX XX. ...
.X. .X. .X. .X. .X. ... .X. .X. .X. ...

.X. .X. .X. .X. .X. ... .X. .X. .X. ...
.X. .XX XX. .XX XX. .XX XX. .X. .XX XX.
.X. ... ... ... ... .X. ... .X. ... .X.

.X. ... ... ... ... .X. ... .X. ... .X.
.X. .XX XX. .XX XX. .XX XX. .X. .XX XX.
.X. .X. .X. .X. .X. ... .X. .X. .X. ...

.X. .X. .X. .X. .X. ... .X. .X. .X. ...
.XX XX. .XX XX. .X. .XX XX. .X. .XX <<.
... ... ... ... .X. .X. ... .X. ... ...

... ... ... ... .X. .X. ... .X. ... ...
.XX XXX XXX XXX XX. .XX XX. .X. .XX XX.
.X. ... ... ... ... ... .X. .X. .X. .X.

.X. .SI ... ... ... ... .X. .X. .X. .X.
.X. .NK XXX XXX XXX XXX XX. .XX XX. .X.
.X. ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .X.

.X. ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .X.
.XX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XX.
... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...

  9. SAVED GAME INFO

    I may add others in if/when I feel like it or if/when someone sends 
them to me.

  10. HYPOTHETICAL QUESTIONS

  Pipe Dreams poses some theoretical questions(many I haven't thought of 
yet) and although many are based on parity and the like, and I have 
discussed those in the walkthrough, I had at least one other interesting 
problem and would guess that there are others.

    10.1 MOST CROSS BONUSES AT ONCE

  Given one board set-up what is the highest number of cross bonuses you 
can get? Don't worry about the odds; what can you do choosing your own 
pieces? (Assume you can only loop once as the pipes will be destroyed 
after 3 traversals:)

  I believe the answer is x41. Observe the setup below:

.SI ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...
.NK XX. .XX XX. .XX XX. .XX XX. .XX XX.
... .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X.

... .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X.
.XX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XX.
.X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. ...

.X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. ...
.XX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XX.
... .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X.

... .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X.
.XX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XX.
.X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. ...

.X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. ...
.XX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XX.
... .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X.

... .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X.
.XX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XX.
.X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. ...

.^. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. .X. ...
STA .XX XX. .XX XX. .XX XX. .XX XX. ...
RT. ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...

  You can see that the forty non-board-edge squares are covered. But the 
edge of the board cannot be gone through two ways; if there is a cross, 
then by definition one of the passages in the pipe leads off the board 
and not to a piece of pipe. So you cannot fully go both horizontally and 
vertically through a pipe on the edge. That leaves a 5x8 rectangle in 
the middle or 40 unit increases to the multiplier, hence x41.

  This is true in the general case although you wind up in different 
places using this. The 7x10 is parallel to the general odd x even. For 
even x even you go in the far corner but for odd x odd you wind up in 
the square next to where you started. I'll show the 4x4 and 5x5 cases 
below:

... ... ... ...
.XX XX. .XX SI.
.X. .X. .X. NK.

.X. .X. .X. ...
.XX XXX XXX XX.
... .X. .X. .X.

... .X. .X. .X.
.XX XXX XXX XX.
.X. .X. .X. ...

.^. .X. .X. ...
STA .XX XX. ...
RT. ... ... ...

-----------------

... ... ... ... ...
... .XX XX. .XX XX.
... .X. .X. .X. .X.

... .X. .X. .X. .X.
.XX XXX XXX XXX XX.
.X. .X. .X. .X. ...

.X. .X. .X. .X. ...
.XX XXX XXX XXX XX.
... .X. .X. .X. .X.

... .X. .X. .X. .X.
.XX XXX XXX XXX XX.
.X. .X. .X. .X. ...

.^. ... .X. .X. ...
STA SI. .XX XX. ...
RT. NK. ... ... ...

  This problem has obvious extensions; what if you start in the middle? 
What if the sinkhole is in the middle? That would cut down on the 
possibilities but would be entertaining.

    10.2 [THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY LEFT BLANK]

End of FAQ proper.

================================

VERSIONS

1.0.0 Sent to GameFAQs 5/6/2002 after a long 'jam session' with the 
darned game. Should be complete for a walkthrough, although this sort of 
game has strategical nuances up the wazoo(this despite CD's not having 
big wazoos like cartridges.) They are not all listed yet.
1.1.0 Revision sent to GameFAQs 5/12/2002 after going through the 
general strategy points. Also cleared up Annoying Gameplay and Other 
Entities. The FAQ is really extra surely complete now, but if someone 
has ways to sharpen up details, great, I'd like to hear it.

CREDITS

Sam's Club for having this game so cheap.

The makers of this game for something that was good but just didn't 
quite work out--and for making the demo for the Mystic Zone scene 2.

The folks who make Twizzlers, and the folks who make Breyer's, for 
nourishment of a sort as I slugged through the maddening final levels. 
Their orange/chocolate and orange/vanilla stuff is great.

Bally's Athletic Club for being a convenient place to work off any 
potential extra points from all that.

The instruction manual for 'providing extra challenge.' Hmmph.

GameFAQs, and the people who requested it, for giving me motivation and 
a forum to display my work.

The usual gang of PSX reviewers/FAQ writers who have been encouraging.