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    Tuning Guide by Minesweeper

    Version: 2.8 | Updated: 08/14/02 | Search Guide | Bookmark Guide

    "This document Copyright 2001-2002 Nathan Norris"
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    Gran Turismo 3 A-Spec: Playstation 2 version - Tuning Guide - Version 2.8
        By: Minesweeper (Nathan Norris) Email:  minesweeper1@hotmail.com
                                                minesweeper2@hotmail.com
    
    ***********************************************************************
    
    Last updated: 8/14/02
    
    *********************************************************
    NEWSFLASH, ALL PEOPLE WANTING ADVICE FROM ME PLEASE READ:
    *********************************************************
    I stopped playing this game a while back, so most of what's in this guide
    I've forgotten.  Just because I have a guide, that doesn't mean I'll keep
    playing this game forever.  If you ask for advice I won't be able to give it
    to you.  My guide IS my advice.
    
    I also never have and never will give out tuning setups for specific cars.
    You're supposed to learn how to tune yourself from this guide.  I heard a
    proverb on this on the GT3 messageboard at www.gamefaqs.com:  "Give a man a
    fish, you feed him for a day.  Teach a man to fish, you feed him for life."
    You won't learn anything about tuning if I give you specific setups for your
    cars.
    
    Table of Contents
    
    1:  Introduction
    2:  Revision History
    3:  Parts Guide
    4:  Tuning Guide
    5:  Thanks for Reader's Notes
    6:  Thanks
    7:  E-mail Policy
    8:  Copyright
    
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    1:  Introduction
    
    Gran Turismo is the best racing series ever according to most gamers, yet a
    Most people who play this game does not understand a large part of this game
    called tuning.  To most people, "tuning" is simply purchasing and then
    installing a lot of expensive parts on a car, then racing it.  This may win
    most races, but wouldn't it be nice if those people with the bottomless
    wallets could squeeze even more performance from their vehicles?  This is
    where this guide comes in, to help you tune up your cars to your liking so
    that you can win even more races easily.  Move on to...
    
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    2:  Revision History
    
    Version 1.0 8/3/01 - First Edition.  There isn't much here yet because I was
    in a rush to beat everyone to the punch who was planning on working on a
    tuning guide.  Don't worry, I will improve on it later.
    
    ***********************************************************************
    
    Version 1.1 8/4/01 - Now that my document is up, I can breathe easy and
    start actually putting quality information into it.  I also added an ASCII
    header and posted a tip from James Puckett.
    
    ***********************************************************************
    
    Version 1.5 8/11/01 - I was updating my Resident Evil 2 and Resident Evil 3
    walkthroughs today, so while I was at it, I decided to put in some notes
    from my readers.
    
    Speaking of readers, I have a general announcement for all of you who are
    reading my document.  This document is not complete.  I would like for you
    to share your experiences in GT3 with me concerning tuning.  I could put
    your notes into my guide and as such this would become a kind of "melting
    pot" for all our information.  I'm serious, it will make my life easier, and
    maybe many other people's tuning lives easier.
    
    ***********************************************************************
    
    Version 2.0 9/10/01 - I added a reader's note, Bryan Ogden, and added a
    couple of things that I didn't realize were missing.  Also I reformatted the
    tuning FAQ to make it easier to read.
    
    ***********************************************************************
    
    Version 2.1 9/15/01 - Drac cbu-anga told me a car that can use the AYC
    controller.  It's the Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VII.  Email me if you find
    another one.
    
    ***********************************************************************
    
    Version 2.2 10/28/01 - Another small note from a reader, knohbodi, and a tip
    from someone whose email I accidentally deleted.
    
    ***********************************************************************
    
    Version 2.3 11/26/01 - All I did was add a small notice to the copyright so
    psxcodes.com may host my guides.
    
    ***********************************************************************
    
    Version 2.4 3/12/02 - I added the Newsflash to the top of the document, oil
    changes, after a lot of questions about it, and some readers' submissions.
    
    ***********************************************************************
    
    Version 2.5 3/24/02 - All I have today is some minor updates to a couple of
    sections, thanks to some reader's notes.
    
    ***********************************************************************
    
    Version 2.6 4/23/02 - Not really a whole lot today.  I just added one tiny
    addition to the AYC Controller System.
    
    ***********************************************************************
    
    Version 2.7 7/11/02 - A couple miscellaneous updates to a few sections is
    all that was done in this update.
    
    ***********************************************************************
    
    Version 2.8 8/14/02 - I have a small copyright revision today and a new 
    email address.  http://faqs.ign.com may now host my guides, and my new email 
    address is minesweeper2@hotmail.com.
    
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    3:  Parts Guide
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    **********
    OIL CHANGE
    **********
    Price:  250
    My comments: This technically isn't an upgrade, but after many annoying
    emails concerning this, I decided I'm going to finally put it in.  I thank
    the guys on the GT3 messageboard at www.gamefaqs.com as being the first to
    help me to understand this.  When you first buy your car, it'll have a
    certain amount of HP.  As you drive it, the HP deteriorates, and stops at a
    certain point.
    
    Usually you ought to change your car's oil every 200 miles.  This can revive
    like about 50-60HP.  Cars however, will lose some HP for good after
    continued usage.  It's usually not enough to be significant though, like
    maybe about 10-20HP.  Also, if you give your car several oil changes right
    after you buy it, you'll get a little extra HP for the first miles.  You
    can't change your oil during a tournament, so be sure you've got a fresh oil
    change before entering into one.
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    These parts are a critical part of any high-speed machine, no matter what
    others might say.  That juiced-up engine isn't going to do you much good on
    a curvy track if you don't have good brakes to slow down.  Suspension is
    also critical unless you want to rattle your teeth and your car every time
    you hit something larger than a pebble, causing you to potentially lose
    control.
    
    *****************
    SUSPENSION/SPORTS
    *****************
    Average price: 3,200
    My comments: I do not buy this, the SUSPENSION/FULL CUSTOMIZE is standard
    equipment when it comes to my suspension needs.  Plus the
    SUSPENSION/SEMI-RACING offers lots more options for only about 3,000 credits
    more.  But, if you are on a tight budget and aren't willing to shell out an
    extra 12,000 credits, then buy this.
    
    **********************
    SUSPENSION/SEMI-RACING
    **********************
    Average price: 7,400
    My comments: I seldom buy this, as I settle for only the best parts except
    for when I am having a major cash-squeeze.  It will serve you better than
    the SUSPENSION/SPORTS, allowing you to adjust several other
    suspension-related settings.  You should always choose this over
    SUSPENSION/SPORTS if you can or don't have the cash for SUSPENSION/FULL
    CUSTOMIZE.
    
    *************************
    SUSPENSION/FULL CUSTOMIZE
    *************************
    Average price: 17,000
    My comments: OH YEAH!  This is what I'm talking about!  You can alter almost
    anything suspension-related.  This will be critical if you want to improve
    your car's cornering more and lessen it's bouncing every time it mounts a
    curb.  You won't regret making this purchase for a car that you use often.
    
    *************
    SPORTS BRAKES
    *************
    Average price: 4,800
    My comments: A vital part of any high-speed vehicle.  The standard brakes
    are typically rather poor for use in races.  These will be very much needed
    in cars that have a hard time turning.
    
    ************************
    BRAKE BALANCE CONTROLLER
    ************************
    Average price: 11,000
    My comments: This will be important in tuning your car's cornering abilities
    to your liking, as the description suggests.
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    If you are like most people, this category is probably the one that you like
    to spend the most money on, and it's also one of the most important
    categories of upgrade parts in the game.
    
    ****************************
    MUFFLER & AIR CLEANER/SPORTS
    ****************************
    Average price: 1,700
    My comments: Ignore this and get the MUFFLER & AIR CLEANER/RACING, it's not
    THAT expensive.
    
    *********************************
    MUFFLER & AIR CLEANER/SEMI-RACING
    *********************************
    Average price: 3,000
    My comments: Same as MUFFLER & AIR CLEANER/SPORTS's comments.
    
    ****************************
    MUFFLER & AIR CLEANER/RACING
    ****************************
    Average price: 5,000
    My comments: This should be one of your first upgrades for any car as this
    part is cheap and adds a decent amount of HP.
    
    #######################################################################
    I was racing a tuned VW New Beetle 2.0 with NA tune up stage 3, various
    other
    engine upgrades, and muffler & air cleaner/racing.  I found to my horror
    that the poor thing could barely go from 0 to 2000 RPMs.  I guess there was
    just not enough low-end torque.  It would literally just sit there
    powerless.  I was baffled.  Since it doesn't shift into any gear, not even
    1st, when its revs are so low, changing the gear ratios didn't help.
    Luckily, I stumbled onto the answer.  I downgraded to muffler & air
    cleaner/semi-racing.  Not only did that fix my low-end torque problem but it
    also boosted my HP!  There may be other cars that would benefit from the
    semi-racing muffler instead of the full racing one, I don't know.
    
    Submitted by:  Allen Ano
    #######################################################################
    #######################################################################
    The Beetle probably had poor low-end torque because it is a relatively
    low-powered car, with a straight pipe, also that I'm pretty sure that
    Volkswagen motors require backpressure to soften the valves. Also, since you
    cannot increase the stroke of the engine, most of the tuning will increase
    horsepower rather than torque. Pay close attention to the powerband, i.e. at
    what rpm does your car have 300 horsepower. If all your power is at 6500
    rpm, your car will be able to maintain speed, but will make poor power until
    it reaches that engine speed.
    
    Remember that torque is prerequisite for acceleration, as it is the
    measurement in feet that the engine will move the car in one combustion
    stroke. Then you can realize why Honda's don't set the fastest 1/4 miles
    even with a lot of horsepower, because the stroke is very short, despite the
    modification of engine bore.
    Submitted by: Hepster6500
    #######################################################################
    
    ******************
    NA TUNE UP/STAGE 1
    ******************
    Average price:  4,900
    My comments:  Buy this only if you are on a cash squeeze.  NA TUNE UP/STAGE
    2 is a LOT better.
    
    ******************
    NA TUNE UP/STAGE 2
    ******************
    Average price:  13,000
    My comments:  This is a terrific upgrade for its price.  Your acceleration
    and speed improve dramatically.  It's a LOT less expensive than NA TUNE
    UP/STAGE 3, yet it delivers a respectable amount of HP.  This is standard
    equipment on most of my cars, unless they can use NA TUNE UP/STAGE 3 or can
    only use turbos.  I like NA Tune much better than turbos.  NA doesn't have
    as much wild acceleration, giving it easier control.
    
    ******************
    NA TUNE UP/STAGE 3
    ******************
    Average price:  80,000
    My comments:  Good luck trying to scrape together enough cash to buy this
    bad boy.  But if you can, prepare to be blown away.  You car will have
    eye-popping performance in terms of speed and acceleration.
    
    #######################################################################
    About your comment on Stage 3 NA, like the Stage 4 Turbo Kit, it also
    delivers a very difficult to control amount of power. Even though the power
    doesn't appear in such a brutal way, it is still more than enough to cause a
    lot of time wasting wheel spin( the Corvette C5R and the Chevrolet Camaro
    Race Car are good examples).
    Submitted by:  Tiago Alves
    #######################################################################
    
    ***********
    PORT POLISH
    ***********
    Average price:  5,500
    My comments:  This upgrade is cheap for the amount of HP it delivers, about
    like the MUFFLER & AIR CLEANER/RACING, only this time the upgrade is
    permanent.
    
    *********************
    FULL-ENGINE BALANCING
    *********************
    Average price:  12,000
    My comments:  This may seem overpriced, but it will help your top speed
    some, especially with slow cars
    
    #######################################################################
    Anyway, I just want to bring up the full engine balancing. You list this as
    overpriced for the HP it gives. The FEB is actually a good deal for a car
    with a low top speed, as the balancing does a good job improving top speed,
    especially with a customized transmission. This is especially helpful for
    cars that have a slow time on the test tracks.
    
    Submitted by:  James Puckett
    #######################################################################
    
    ***************
    DISPLACEMENT UP
    ***************
    Average price:  6,000
    My comments:  Almost no car can use this upgrade, so I can't say much about
    it.  Uhh, it increases your HP.  :)
    
    #######################################################################
    Displacement up, when available (Skylines can use it) is a very good
    upgrade. Although the improvement in hp isn't very big, the torque increase
    is great, and it spreads out throughout the rev range, allowing for easier
    control of acceleration.
    Submitted by:  Tiago Alves
    #######################################################################
    
    ***********
    RACING CHIP
    ***********
    Average price:  1,500
    My comments:  This is a very cheap upgrade, so it should be one of the first
    things on your shopping list when you start buying parts for you car.
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    Do not scoff at this category because the parts are cheap, it is vital for
    tuning your car's acceleration and top speed to your liking.  Also you will
    need it for more effective gear changing.
    
    *************
    CLUTCH/SINGLE
    *************
    Average price:  1,800
    My comments:  Ignore this and get the CLUTCH/TRIPLE PLATE, as its not that
    much more expensive.
    
    *******************
    CLUTCH/DOUBLE PLATE
    *******************
    Average price:  2,700
    My comments:  Same as CLUTCH/SINGLE.
    
    *******************
    CLUTCH/TRIPLE PLATE
    *******************
    Average price:  4,900
    My comments:  This is needed in conjunction with the FLYWHEEL/RACING, to
    improve your acceleration.  It should be easy for you to afford this part,
    as its super-cheap.
    
    #######################################################################
    For the clutches you suggest a triple plate no matter what. I found that
    although a triple plate does improve acceleration more than the double
    plate, it does come with a problem. Certain cars, like the Audi TT, benefit
    more from the double plate because the gear ratios hit a problem when you
    have them tuned to maximize hp.  The car revs up to quickly to shift gears
    and you end up with the speedometer needle bouncing while the car wants to
    shift up but can't because of the gear ratios. I found that when I used the
    double plate this problem was eliminated and actually helped me accelerate
    faster as my car shifted faster.
    
    Submitted by: knohbodi
    #######################################################################
    #######################################################################
    On the triple plate clutch with cars like the Audi TT, you are gonna want to
    master manual transmission to counter that problem. If you can get it right,
    the over reving won't be a problem. Also take advantage of the pressure
    sensitive control function. At the start line use this to your advantage and
    keep your tachometer around 1000 and 2000 RPM's and you be fine.
    
    Submitted by:  NeoBahamut
    #######################################################################
    
    ***************
    FLYWHEEL/SPORTS
    ***************
    Average price:  450
    My comments:  Ignore it and take the FLYWHEEL/RACING.  It's super cheap and
    far better than this thing.
    
    ********************
    FLYWHEEL/SEMI-RACING
    ********************
    Average price:  700
    My comments:  Same as FLYWHEEL/SPORTS.
    
    ***************
    FLYWHEEL/RACING
    ***************
    Average price:  1,200
    My comments:  Buy this, as you need it with the CLUTCH/TRIPLE PLATE to
    improve acceleration.  Another super cheap part that anyone should be able
    to afford.
    
    *****************
    DRIVESHAFT/CARBON
    *****************
    Average price:  3,000
    My comments:  Like most everything else here, this is super cheap as well.
    Get it for better acceleration.
    
    *******************
    TRANSMISSION/SPORTS
    *******************
    Average price:  5,700
    My comments:  Ignore this item.  The TRANSMISSION/SEMI-RACING is better and
    it is also generally the same price.
    
    ************************
    TRANSMISSION/SEMI-RACING
    ************************
    Average price:  5,700
    My comments:  If you can, ignore this item as well and buy the
    TRANSMISSION/FULL-RACING.  It offers lots more in the way of fine-tuning
    your car than this.
    
    ************************
    TRANSMISSION/FULL-RACING
    ************************
    Average price:  11,000
    My comments:  This is a MUST for every tuner.  It will allow you to mess
    around with the gear ratio, giving you the ability to fine-tune your cars
    acceleration and speed to suit the track.  Never drive a car without it!
    
    *****************
    LIMITED-SLIP/1WAY
    *****************
    Average price:  4,500
    My comments:  Ignore this and get the LIMITED-SLIP/FULL-CUSTOMIZE SERVICE,
    it only costs about 2,000 credits more and offers far more options for
    tuning acceleration, deceleration, and turning.
    
    *******************
    LIMITED-SLIP/1.5WAY
    *******************
    Average price:  4,500
    My comments:  Same as LIMITED-SLIP/1WAY.
    
    *****************
    LIMITED-SLIP/2WAY
    *****************
    Average price:  4,500
    My comments:  Same as LIMITED-SLIP/1WAY.
    
    ***********************************
    LIMITED-SLIP/FULL-CUSTOMIZE SERVICE
    ***********************************
    Average price:  6,600
    My comments:  Take this over all the other similar parts, as it provides
    more tuning options, and that's what we're after in this guide :)  Allows
    you to adjust acceleration, deceleration, and handling.
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    Duhhh, Duhhhhh, DUHHHHH....DU DUMMMMMMMM!!!  Yes, this is the category that
    everyone has been waiting for, the turbos!  It goes without saying that
    having one of these provides some big benefits on the track.
    
    *****************
    TURBO KIT/STAGE 1
    *****************
    Average price:  5,000
    My comments:  Take this only if you are on a tight budget and can't afford
    any better kits.  It provides a good dose of HP for its price though.
    
    *****************
    TURBO KIT/STAGE 2
    *****************
    Average price:  14,000
    My comments:  This will likely be the most common kit you will buy, either
    because the better kits aren't compatible with your vehicle or you don't
    have the cash for the super expensive kits beyond this one.  It will help
    you out quite a bit in lots of races.
    
    *****************
    TURBO KIT/STAGE 3
    *****************
    Average price:  45,000
    My comments:  This is where the kits start to get super-expensive.  You will
    not be disappointed in the HP you get from this thing.  This is typically
    the kit I buy the most, as the TURBO KIT/STAGE 4 is super expensive plus the
    extra power can be a disadvantage on tight, twisty tracks like Rome.
    
    *****************
    TURBO KIT/STAGE 4
    *****************
    Average price:  85,000
    My comments:  This is the most expensive upgrade you can purchase in this
    game.  It will give your car mega speed and all, but I would much rather
    take TURBO KIT/STAGE 3 as the power it gives you is more controllable than
    what you get with this monster, not to mention I don't have to shell out
    almost 100,000 credits for it.  It's not compatible with hardly any cars
    anyway.
    
    #######################################################################
    To counter the turn problem all that is needed is a high setting on the
    brake control system. On all my cars that have Turbo stage 4, a high setting
    has given me response of a stage 2 or 3 turbo equipped car.
    
    Submitted by:  NeoBahamut
    #######################################################################
    #######################################################################
    Another thing about turbo-charging is that it makes for poor low-end no
    matter what. The larger the turbo (i.e. stage3 and 4), the faster the
    exhaust gases need to move to spool the turbine and to create more air
    density in the intake manifold. Since the big turbo won't be spinning fast
    at low rpm, you will not be producing boost until high-rpm. This is why I
    stick to stage 1 and 2 turbos. Since the exhaust gases are used to create
    the boost, there has to be a certain amount of back-pressure in the system,
    otherwise they will not spool properly. Turbo engines will have better low
    end power and torque with a more restrictive exhaust system. That's why they
    tend to benefit from the semi-racing air cleaner and exhaust system. It's
    too bad we can't pick and choose our mufflers and air-cleaners, because a
    restrictive exhaust and a cone filter would benefit a turbo engine the best.
    Submitted by:  Hepster6500
    #######################################################################
    
    
    ******************
    INTERCOOLER/SPORTS
    ******************
    Average price:  1,800
    My comments:  Ignore this item and take INTERCOOLER/RACING.
    
    ******************
    INTERCOOLER/RACING
    ******************
    Average price:  3,000
    My comments:  This will give your turbo a small boost in power.  Uhh, that's
    about it.
    ___   __  __  __
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    The type of tires you put on your car is EXTREMELY important, as the manual
    says, your tires are the only way your car's power gets it to move.  Without
    wheels, even a car with 10,000 HP is worthless.  You should be picky about
    what kind of rubber is going over those wheels.  Your choice of tires is
    especially important when you get to Professional League, when all the races
    are 10 laps at the minimum and creating a lot of wear and tear on your
    wheels.
    
    ****************
    SIMULATION TIRES
    ****************
    Average price:  6,000
    My comments:  For people who really want this game to be realistic, they
    will want this.  For the rest of us, we should disregard it as it will only
    make winning races even harder than it already is.  No sense in giving the
    computer more advantages over us than they already have.
    
    ************
    SPORTS TIRES
    ************
    Average price:  6,000
    My comments:  Forget these cheap pieces of engineering, they will do you
    little good beyond the Beginner League as they have a short life and
    mediocre turning ability at best.
    
    ************
    RACING TIRES
    ************
    Average prices:
      -SUPER-SLICK:  10,500
      -SLICK:        13,500
      -MEDIUM-SLICK: 16,500
      -MEDIUM:       22,500
      -MEDIUM-SOFT:  27,500
      -SOFT:         35,000
      -SUPER-SOFT:   47,500
    
    My comments:  The tires higher on the list provide a longer life, but less
    cornering potential.  The lower on the list you go, the more cornering
    ability you get, and the lesser amount of life you get.  After Beginner
    League, I recommend you don't even CONSIDER buying anything on the lower
    half of the list, as the tires down there simply don't last long enough for
    you to finish races without pitting, costing precious time.
    
    In fact, I recommend you stay away from the lower half period and get right
    into MEDIUM-SLICK tires or lower in Beginner so you can get a feel of the
    lesser cornering power and learn how to deal with it while the competition
    is not so fierce.  You will have to deal with these tires a lot in Amateur
    and especially in Professional if you hope to win.  So, you should get used
    to it at the start of the game before things get rough, not to mention
    you'll save a lot of money on this expensive rubber.
    
    *****************
    DIRT RACING TIRES
    *****************
    Average price:  22,500
    My comments:  These will allow your car to race on dirt.  Umm, that's about
    all I have to say :)
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    |__   |  |__||__|||   |  |  \_/  |   |  ||\ |  |  |__||  ||    _|_
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    *****************
    LIGHTWEIGHT/STAGE 1
    *****************
    Average price:  1,300
    My comments:  You should buy this as one of your first upgrades, as it helps
    with most every performance category of your car.  Not to mention it is
    quite cheap.
    
    *****************
    LIGHTWEIGHT/STAGE 2
    *****************
    Average price:  5,500
    My comments:  Same as LIGHTWEIGHT/STAGE 1.
    
    *****************
    LIGHTWEIGHT/STAGE 3
    *****************
    Average price:  22,500
    My comments:  I recommend not getting this one, as the money you pay will
    not make up for what you get for this upgrade.
    
    **************
    AYC CONTROLLER
    **************
    Average price:  10,000
    My comments:  This gives you the ability to control the vehicle's yaw.  This
    part is only for Mitsubishi Lancers.  This discovery was made by Drac
    cbu-anga. Toby Knight says the reason this item cannot be used on anything
    other than Mitsubishis is because it is a trademark of Mitsubishi Motors.
    
    ****************************
    VARIABLE CENTER DIFFERENTIAL
    ****************************
    Average price:  10,000
    My comments:  I have changed my mind about this item, as it is vital for
    improving a 4WD vehicle's handling to your liking.  It really helped me out
    tuning my RUF CTR2's cornering.
    
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    4:  Tuning guide
    
    Ahhh, yes, this is the real bulk of the walkthrough, and I am assuming over
    half of you came to look at this.  Fear not, I will help you make yourself a
    master tuner and guide you through these confusing menus and meters.  I will
    not tell you preset settings for cars here, because I will teach you how to
    read
    these menus and become an effective tuner yourself.
    
    ___      __  __  __      __   __
    |__ |  ||__ |__||__ |\ ||__ ||  ||\ |
    ___||__| __||   |__ | \| __|||__|| \|
    
    ***********
    SPRING RATE
    ***********
    This is one of the most influential settings you can adjust.  The higher the
    number, the stiffer your springs.  Stiff springs will help your car corner
    better, but your car also won't react well if you go over the curb.  If its
    too stiff, you car may even jump into the air if it goes over a curb.  You
    should have stiff springs on tracks that aren't very bumpy or twisty.  If
    your course has lots of ups and downs, like Seattle for example, then you
    should soften up the springs.  This will make the car harder to steer, but
    at least you won't go flying if you jump the curb.
    
    ***********
    RIDE HEIGHT
    ***********
    In general, you want the ride height as low as possible to reduce the center
    of gravity and air resistance, and also to boost cornering.  If you do lower
    your car, make sure you have adequate suspension to reduce the side effect
    of the car bouncing when going over a curve.  Be sure to increase the shock
    bound and the shock rebound to cover the lower height.
    
    ***********
    SHOCK BOUND
    ***********
    This adjusts the shocks' movement in compression.  It should be set about
    the shock rebound's level divided by 2.  If you make this too strong, the
    car will be stiff and will bounce over corners instead of smoothly crossing
    over them.
    
    *************
    SHOCK REBOUND
    *************
    This adjusts the shocks' movement in expansion.  It should be set about 2
    times as high as shock bound.  Both shock bound and rebound are critical
    when making your car's ride height lower.
    
    #######################################################################
    doing what you suggested is a good rule to correct oversteer...you
    see...these two suspension settings are probably the most effective in fine
    tuning your car to handle exactly how you want it to handle through the
    turns:
    
    using your rule; setting the rebound higher than the bound makes the car
    have more oversteer....doing the opposite can actually make your car go
    through the turns with more understeer....but it doesn't stop there....you
    can actually control it more than that:
    
    -low rear rebound, and high front bound makes your car very loose into turns
    (oversteer)
    -low front rebound, and high rear bound makes your car very loose out of
    turns (oversteer)
    -high front rebound, and low rear bound makes your car very tight our of
    turns (understeer)
    -high rear rebound, and low front bound makes your car very tight into turns
    (understeer)
    
    so you can actually set up your car to handle in and out of turns just how
    you like it
    
    Submitted by:  Brian Ogden
    #######################################################################
    #######################################################################
    Increasing the number on shock bound does not make the shocks stiffer. In
    fact, Macpherson struts are not stiff at all. Shock bound controls the speed
    at which the coil spring is allowed to compress. So, with a high shock bound
    setting, the car will pitch it's weight forward more quickly under braking,
    where one with a lower shock speed will tend to understeer because the
    weight does not transfer properly. This is one aspect of the game that I
    feel was explained very poorly in the settings menu in the game, because it
    was entirely wrong, and confused many people about what it is that struts
    do. That said, rebound is the same way. When the rebound is set high, the
    spring will be allowed to decompress very quickly. When the bound is low and
    the rebound is high, the car will understeer because it will not allow the
    springs to transfer the weight properly.
    Submitted by:  Hepster6500
    #######################################################################
    
    
    ************
    CAMBER ANGLE
    ************
    This lets the tires lean a little to the side.  Adding to the camber will
    allow the car to make more effective use of the wheels while cornering.
    Setting it too high will reduce braking power, but not if you only adjust
    the front and back to around 3 and 4 degrees.
    
    #######################################################################
    You can also use camber angle to reduce over/under steering (although only
    to a certain point). This has the advantage of not disturbing the car's
    behavior in any other aspect, saving you the trouble of having to readjust
    anything else. This is also true with downforce, but has a bigger effect on
    the car, so it should be used lightly.
    Submitted by:  Tiago Alves
    #######################################################################
    
    ******************
    TOE IN AND TOE OUT
    ******************
    Tow means the wheels are parallel to each other.  Toe out (positive number)
    means the wheels are slightly sticking out from the car on bottom, while toe
    in (negative number) means the tires are slightly sticking towards the car
    on the bottom.
    
    If you give your car toe out, then this will help reduce oversteer, but this
    will also cause greater tire wear.  If your car has understeer then give
    your front tires some toe in and adjust your rear wheels to toe-out.
    
    If its the other way around, your car is oversteering, then do the opposite.
    Give your front wheels toe out and your back wheels toe in.  This ought to
    be left alone as it increases tire wear.
    
    ***********
    STABILIZERS
    ***********
    Stabilizers are like the springs.  If you make both stiffer together, then
    your car will handle better, but this will also reduce stability on a bumpy
    road.  If they are softened together, then you will have better stability on
    bumpy roads, but less steering ability.  There are other effects if you
    alter the front and rear separately.
    
    If you stiffen the front and soften the rear, then there will be less over
    steer.  If you do it the other way around, soften the front and stiffen the
    rear, then understeer will be reduced instead.
    
    Be careful with this setting, because if you set it to reduce too much
    oversteer, then your car will turn like a brick.  And if you turn too hard
    like this, you car can spin out.  If you get rid of too much understeer,
    then your car will be easy to turn, way too easy to turn.  So easy that
    spinouts will become quite common.
    
    #######################################################################
    First, stabilizer bars are not like springs. What they do is tie the two
    strut-tower bars in order to reduce chassis twist/flex. When they are
    tightened they increase chassis rigidity so that the tires (both front or
    both rear) will maintain a more strict contact with the road. Remember that
    although increasing the load placed on one tire, you are reducing the load
    on the opposite, reducing the vehicle's overall traction. That said, making
    the rear stabilizer more stiff with a loose front end will make understeer
    even more pronounced, because the rear end will have better traction while
    that of the front has been reduced. Transversely, a stiff front stab. setup
    coupled with a loose rear will make for oversteer characteristics, which
    actually works quite well on front wheel drive cars.
    
    Submitted by:  Hepster6500
    #######################################################################
    
    ___  __  __      __  __
    |__||__||__||__/|__ |__
    |__||  \|  ||  \|__  __|
    
    *************
    BRAKE BALANCE
    *************
    This is used to adjust how powerful your rear and frontal brakes will be.
    If they are adjusted to the same level, a higher setting makes the brakes
    more powerful, but also cuts back on turning ability, while lower settings
    reduce braking power, but this will improve cornering.  So, if you set them
    at the same level, you should give your car the lowest setting you can
    handle.
    
    On the other hand, adjusting the brakes separately will produce other
    effects.  If you make your back tires have more powerful brakes than the
    front ones, cornering is improved some, and your car will be more able to
    turn in the corners if you brake while turning.  Use this if you like to
    brake in the turns.  If you make your frontal brakes stronger than the rear
    ones, then you car will have excellent braking power, and better cornering,
    but never use your brakes in a turn as this will cause the car to tend to
    slide outward.  Use this if you prefer to brake early and don't use brakes
    in a turn.
    __  __       __ ___  __  __
    | \|__||\  /|__  |  |__||__|||\ |
    |_/|  \| \/ |__  |  |  \|  ||| \|
    
    ***************************
    LIMITED-SLIP INITIAL TORQUE
    ***************************
    This will raise or lower the initial torque, which gives better stability in
    ordinary driving.  This is not ordinary driving, so this will make the car
    hard to turn if you do not brake while turning.  If you enjoy braking while
    turning, then you may want this to be high up.  If you brake early a lot,
    and like to go through corners with the accelerator off then blow out of the
    turn at the end of it, then set it low.
    
    *************************
    LIMITED-SLIP ACCELERATION
    *************************
    This helps you in exiting corners as well as helping get rid of wheel spin
    if strengthened, but it also reduces cornering ability if you prefer to
    brake late and in turns.  Set it high if you prefer to go through turns not
    braking and instead just keeping your foot off the accelerator.
    
    *************************
    LIMITED-SLIP DECELERATION
    *************************
    This is the opposite of LIMITED-SLIP ACCELERATION.  This will help you enter
    turns more easily.  If this is adjusted higher, it will allow you to use
    late braking and braking in turns more effectively.
    
    **********
    GEAR RATIO
    **********
    Ahhh, now this is what I like the best to modify.  You could set each of the
    gears individually.  The further to the left, the quicker the gear change.
    However, this lowers the top speed.  The further to the right, the slower
    gears will change, but this will get you higher speeds.
    
    I would prefer to go to the AUTO SETTING at the bottom of the menu and
    adjust it there.  If the line is closer to "sports" on the meter, then the
    car will have better acceleration and less top speed, and if it is set
    closer to "wide," then the car will have better top speed but less
    acceleration.
    
    This feature can be used effectively to tune your speed to make it
    appropriate for the track you are racing on.  If you are a beginner at this
    tuning, then only adjust the final gear if you want to complete it manually.
    
    #######################################################################
    FYI, turbo lag exists when a cars turbo charger only spins up to a usable
    RPM at high engine speeds (generally when a higher diameter turbo is used),
    creating the condition of an engine that is underpowered through most of its
    powerband, then takes off at high RPMs. The "lag" is waiting for the turbo
    to spin up.
    
    Submitted by: JLL
    #######################################################################
    #######################################################################
    My first car was the Trueno Sprinter, and I invested in the cheaper HP
    boosts until I could afford a Camaro. With the Camaro I worked my way up to
    my 3rd car, a Lotus Esprit Sport. I tweaked my HP to about 1088 or so. I
    also bought all the most expensive parts, not knowing how to properly
    customize them. I bought a new transmission and a clutch triple plate. When
    my max speed went from 170 to 150, I knew there was a problem.
    
    I played around with my gearbox.  I found that if you set the first 3 gears
    really close, the 4th at a medium, and the 5th and 6th to the farthest
    possible, you will have excellent acceleration for sprints and an extremely
    high top speed in the 5th and 6th.
    I reached a max speed of around 240 mph with this recipe.
    
    Submitted by:  R Z
    #######################################################################
    ___  ___      __  __  __
    |  |  |  |__||__ |__||__
    |__|  |  |  ||__ |  \ __|
    
    *********
    DOWNFORCE
    *********
    Think of a knife cutting through steak.  The sharper the knife, the more
    easily it cuts through the steak, while if it is duller, you have a harder
    time cutting the meat.  This is similar to how racecars must cut through air
    to get better speed.  The "sharper" the car is angled, the more easily it
    can cut through the air,  which will allow it to travel faster.  Downforce
    alters the angle of your car's body to alter the way air flows over the
    car's body.  If you have high downforce, your car will move more slowly due
    to the fact it is not as aerodynamic, but this will also improve traction in
    corners.  If its the other way around, downforce is low, then your car will
    be faster than before due to improved air flow.  But, be ready for the
    consequence of less handling.
    
    #######################################################################
    Downforce can have a huge affect on your cars high speed cornering. More
    downforce in the front of the car will make the rear of your car swing out
    more for oversteer. Clearly, doing the opposite: more downforce in the rear
    will keep the rear of your car tighter to the ground...which can be used to
    correct oversteer, or just make your car handle with more understeer
    
    Submitted by:  Brian Ogden
    #######################################################################
    #######################################################################
    Basically, you described downfroce using the knife analogy, you know this.
    What you misunderstood and then misrepresented in your explanation was how
    altering the downforce in the game affects your car and what it is changing.
    Raising the numbers has nothing to do with the body of that car, which is
    what one would come to understand it as doing so from what you said. The
    angel of the car does not ever change unless you raise or lower either the
    front or rear ride height.
    What the downforce controls affect are two things: Front downforce adjusts
    something called an airdam (mounted to/on/underneath the bumber of a car)
    which prevents air/regulates the airflow underneath your vehicle. At high
    speeds IRL, the airflow underneath a car can become horribly disrupted by
    all those mis-shapen engine parts we so love to tuck under out hoods,
    causing a build up of air pressure that actually in extreme conditions lifts
    the car slightly on it's front suspenions, reducing stability/cornering,
    etc. The air dam reduces this effect dramatically. unfortunately, since air
    is almost completely prevented from passing underneath the car (as most of
    it would anyway) air resistance does build up and slow the car down, even as
    it passes over the front end (hood) of the car, increasing the downward
    force on the wheels.
    
    The second thing downforce controls on a car is the rear-spoiler. This is
    simply a flap on the back of every car in the game, both small and large,
    medium and otherwise. Now, the spoiler controls the rear downforce through
    it's adjustments or increasing or decreasing angle. The downward part of the
    spoiler is foremost (nearest to the driver) and the upward part of the
    spoiler is rear most. This is where your explanation of "the angle of the
    car" would be appropriate, except instead it is the angel of the spoiler.
    The higher the number in the game, the greater the angle, and incidentally,
    the greater the downforce.
    Maybe my explanations are just a bit more longwinded, and thats the
    difference, but as I interpreted what you explained I felt it was somewhat
    incorrrect, although not completely--you had the right idea.
    
    Submitted by:  PJ Marx
    #######################################################################
    
    **************
    AYC CONTROLLER
    **************
    This controls the vehicle's yaw.  The lower the number, the more understeer,
    the higher the setting, the more oversteer.  This part seems to be only for
    Mitsubishi Lancers.  This discovery was made by Drac cbu-anga.  Toby Knight
    says the reason this item cannot be used on anything other than Mitsubishis
    is because it is a trademark of Mitsubishi Motors.
    
    ***********************
    TRACTION CONTROL SYSTEM
    ***********************
    This adjusts the throttle on all the drive wheels to fix wheelspin.  It
    reduces acceleration but also gets rid of wheelspin.  Good for a
    way-overpowered car that has RWD.
    
    ***************************
    ACTIVE STABILITY CONTROLLER
    ***************************
    This controls the braking power on all the wheels.  Don't set it too low or
    it won't do anything.  The higher the setting the faster your brakes will
    kick in.  Experiment to see which setting you like the
    best.
    
    **************************************
    VARIABLE CENTER DIFFERENTAL CONTROLLER
    **************************************
    This option is for 4WD cars ONLY.  It will allow you to adjust how much
    power goes to the front wheels and the back wheels.  The percentage is how
    much power is going to the front wheels of the car.  If you give the front
    less power, your 4WD car will behave more like an FR car.  This is VERY
    critical to getting rid of the stiffness of 4WD cars and giving the wheels
    more freedom of movement.  This is at the sacrifice of some stability
    though.
    
    On the other hand, if you adjust it closer to where the power distributed
    between the wheels is nearly equal, then your car will be very stiff and
    hard to turn.  This will help if you take your car to rally races a lot, but
    for road racing, it can make turning a HUGE pain.  Then again, you won't be
    able to make your stiff 4WD spin out on pavement if you tried to do it on
    purpose!
    
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    5:  Thanks for Reader's Notes
    
    This is where I will put your name if you submit a tip that could be good
    for making this document more accurate, more thorough in exploring tuning,
    whatever, as long as it improves this walkthrough.  I also wouldn't mind
    hearing tips from the rest of you either, it would help me out big time as I
    don't have the time to do everything, and it would also help out other
    readers with their problems.
    
    - James Puckett for the small tip about the Full Engine Balancing
    
    - Allen Ano for the information about the mufflers
    
    - JLL for the correction about turbo lag.
    
    - Bryan Ogden for the hints about shock rebound and bound.
    
    - Drac cbu-anga for telling me a car that can use the AYC Controller.
    
    - (Unknown) for telling me that most of the Mitsubishi Lancers can also use
    the AYC Controller.  (please tell me your name so I may credit you, I
    accidentally deleted your email.)
    
    - knohbodi for the clutch hint.
    
    - Tiago Alves for advice on a few things.
    
    - PJ Marx for a complete rundown on downforce.
    
    - R Z for a tip on gear ratio.
    
    - NeoBahamut for advice on correcting some car problems.
    
    - Toby Knight for confirming that only Mitsubishis can use the Yaw Control
    System.
    
    - Hepster6500 for some random things on engines, stabilizers, and shocks.
    
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    6:  Thanks
    
    - Thanks to my dad for giving me jobs to do to pay for my Playstation 2  and
    this game!
    - Thanks to Polyphony for the greatest racing series ever!
    - Thanks to all the people who have submitted information to me!
    - Thanks to you, because you took the time to read my guide!
    - BIG, Big thanks to GameFaqs, THE best video game site on the net!
    
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    7:  E-mail Policy
    
    I have received a lot of stupid e-mail in the past, but now it is starting
    to get ridiculous so I am going to start enforcing what kinds of messages
    will and will not get answered.
    
    Please DO:
    
    - read the whole document before sending a question.  If you have time to
    waste your life away on video games, then you have enough time to scan my
    document for a few minutes for an answer to a problem.
    
    - put the name of the game in the message topic.  It makes it A LOT easier
    for me to pick out which messages are on games and which are not.  Also if
    the name is not there, I might accidentally delete it, thinking it is junk
    mail.
    
    - spell correctly.  I won't be able to help much with your problem if you
    send me something like "Hy mn cn u hlp me wth ths 1 prblm, I cnt bt ths 1
    lvl ok thnks gby."
    
    - send a message in English.  I can barely read Spanish, let alone translate
    Japanese.  You wouldn't believe how many messages I have received in some
    foreign languages that I don't even know which continent they are from.
    
    - be polite.  Any mail with excessive flaming will be instantly deleted.
    
    Please DO NOT:
    
    - write the title of the message as "About your walkthrough" or something
    similar to that.
    
    - flame.  I hate flaming.  Especially messages with the f-word or the
    s-word.  These will be instantly deleted.
    
    - send advertisements.  These will be considered junk mail and will be
    deleted instantly.
    
    - ask me something that is already answered in the walkthrough or the
    manual.  C'mon, would you rather spend a few minutes skimming my guide, or
    would you rather spend a few hours, days, or even weeks waiting for me to
    get back to you?
    
    - forget to include the name of the game in the message or on the title.  I
    am not a psychic.  I cannot tell what game you are after if you do not
    include the name in it.
    
    - send me a message in any language other than English.  The only other
    language I can barely understand at all is Spanish, and even then, I can
    hardly form simple sentences.  So don't send the message in any language
    besides English or I simply won't be able to help you.
    
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    8:  Copyright
    
    This guide is the sole property of Nathan Norris, author of this guide.
    Don't rip off this guide in part or whole, or I will be forced to act
    against you.  Don't rip off this guide then alter it to death and claim it
    as your own.  This guide may not be used for ANY profitable reasons
    whatsoever, even if no money is made.
    
    I'm tired of all these websites requesting my guides for their sites, so
    from now on, these are the only sites, which may use my guides:
    
    www.gamefaqs.com
    www.neoseeker.com
    www.gameadvice.com
    www.psxcodes.com
    http://faqs.ign.com
    
    This makes it very simple for me to keep track of what state each version is
    in each site.  If you find this guide on some other site, and it is
    incomplete, go to www.gamefaqs.com. before requesting help from me.  Since
    gamefaqs.com is the first place I send every piece of my work, they are sure
    to have the most up-to-date version of my guides.
    
    Also, if you find this guide on www.cheatcc.com, notify me immediately.
    They have ripped off of me before and I'm not gonna let them do it again.
    
    I bid you farewell.
    
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    

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