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    FAQ/Strategy Guide by Wolf Feather

    Version: Final | Updated: 09/30/02 | Search Guide | Bookmark Guide

    GRAN TURISMO 3: MEGAGUIDE
    
    by
    
    Jamie Stafford/Wolf Feather
    feather7@ix.netcom.com
    
    
    
    Initial Version Completed: September 8, 2002
    FINAL VERSION Completed:   September 30, 2002
    
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    CONTENTS
    Spacing and Length
    Permissions
    Introduction
    Arcade Mode Overview
    Simulation Mode Overview
    Initial Car Selection
    Going Racing: The First Car
    Going Racing: The Second Car
    Going Racing: Major Money, Fast Cars
    Tuning Basics
    Tires
    Tires: Selection
    Tires: Care
    Tires: Two Exceptions
    Tires: Input from Others
    General Set-ups
    General Set-ups: Apricot Hill Raceway (II)
    General Set-ups: Cote d'Azur/Monaco
    General Set-ups: Deep Forest Raceway (II)
    General Set-ups: Grand Valley Speedway (II)
    General Set-ups: Laguna Seca Raceway
    General Set-ups: Midfield Raceway (II)
    General Set-ups: Rome Circuit (II)
    General Set-ups: Seattle Circuit (II)
    General Set-ups: Smokey Mountain (II)
    General Set-ups: Special Stage Route 11 (II)
    General Set-ups: Special Stage Route 5 (II)
    General Set-ups: Special Stage Route 5 Wet (II)
    General Set-ups: Super Speedway
    General Set-ups: Swiss Alps (II)
    General Set-ups: Tahiti Circuit (II)
    General Set-ups: Tahiti Maze (II)
    General Set-ups: Test Course
    General Set-ups: Tokyo R246 (II)
    General Set-ups: Trial Mountain (II)
    Rally Racing
    Rally Racing: Fast Advancement
    Rally Racing: Dirt Driving
    Rally Racing: Wet-conditions Driving
    Rally Racing: 'Guaranteed Wins'
    Rally Racing: Circuit Tips and Warnings
    Endurance Races
    Endurance Races: Grand Valley 300km
    Endurance Races: Seattle 100 Miles
    Endurance Races: Laguna Seca 200 Miles
    Endurance Races: Passage to Colosseo 2 Hours
    Endurance Races: Trial Mountain 2 Hours
    Endurance Races: Special Stage Route 11
    Endurance Races: Roadster Apricot Hill
    Endurance Races: Mistral (Cote d'Azur) 78 Laps
    Endurance Races: Super Speedway 150 Miles
    F1 Cars
    Formula GT
    Formula GT: Finding Car Set-ups
    Formula GT: Qualifying
    Formula GT: Circuit Tips
    Formula GT: General Tips
    Formula GT: Suggested Car Set-Ups
    Formula GT: Adjusting Car Set-Ups
    Formula GT: Sample Race Performance
    General Q&A
    Other Guides of Interest
    Thanks
    Contact
    
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    SPACING AND LENGTH
    For optimum readability, this driving guide should be
    viewed/printed using a monowidth font, such as Courier.
    Check for appropriate font setting by making sure the numbers
    and letters below line up:
    
    1234567890123456789012345678901234567890123456789012
    ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZabcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz
    
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    PERMISSIONS
    This driving guide may only be posted on: FeatherGuides,
    GameFAQs.com, f1gamers.com, PSXCodez.com, Cheatcc.com, Games
    Domain, gamesover.com, Absolute-PlayStation.com, RedCoupe,
    InsidePS2Games.com, CheatPlanet.com, The Cheat Empire,
    gamespot.com, ps2domain.net, a2zweblinks.com, Gameguru,
    ps2replay.com, cheatingplanet.com, neoseeker.com,
    GameReactors.com, RobsGaming.com, ps2fantasy.com,
    gamespot.com, and vgstrategies.com.  Please contact me for
    permission to post elsewhere on the Internet.
    
    Permission is granted to download and print one copy for
    personal use.
    
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    INTRODUCTION
    This MegaGuide is essentially a combination of MOST of my
    guides for Gran Turismo 3, located in one file for easy
    downloading and printing.  There have been some modifications
    to information for those stand-alone guides which have
    already been finalized, but much of the information is the
    same.
    
    Newcomers to the Gran Turismo series must first realize that
    this is NOT an arcade-style game, such as the insanely-
    popular Ridge Racer series.  Even in GT3's Arcade Mode,
    proper driving is key.  There are tips on how to drive
    properly in this guide, and GT3's License Tests will
    certainly provide hands-on experience in this regard.
    However, players may also benefit from reading my General
    Racing/Driving Guide - available EXCLUSIVELY at GameFAQs
    (http://www.GameFAQs.com/) and at FeatherGuides
    (http://feathersites.angelcities.com/) - which covers issues
    such as cornering, braking, tuning, rumble strips, concrete
    extensions, and other important aspects of racing (primarily
    focusing on road courses).
    
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    ARCADE MODE OVERVIEW
    Gran Turismo 3 is fairly massive, so it is rather easy for
    those unaccustomed with the Gran Turismo series to feel lost
    initially (I felt the same way with the original Gran Turismo
    when I first bought that game).  The main point to consider
    is that there are two main sections of the game: Arcade Mode
    and Simulation Mode.
    
    After the requisite admiring of the opening movie, Arcade
    Mode is a great place for newcomers to begin, as Simulation
    Mode can be daunting and frustrating at first.  Free Run is
    perfect for getting to learn each of the many circuits in the
    game.  The Gran Turismo series uses the 'II' designation to
    indicate circuits run in the opposite direction from their
    standard configurations, and it is important for newcomers to
    experiment with the 'II' venues as well; areas of a circuit
    which seem fairly easy and straightforward when run in the
    standard direction can become quite difficult when run in
    reverse, even if for no other reason than the necessity of a
    different rhythm in driving the circuit.  Once a circuit has
    been selected, a vehicle can be chosen from a variety of
    classes; once cars have been acquired in Simulation Mode,
    they can also be used here by first loading the Garage.  Of
    all the circuits available in Free Run, Complex String and
    Complex String II are perhaps the best to know, as many of
    the hardest License Tests (in Simulation Mode) cover the
    trickiest sections of these two circuits.
    
    When ready to graduate from Free Run, Single Race allows for
    racing against five CPU-controlled cars at a chosen venue.
    However, only Section A (containing six circuits) is
    initially available; other courses will open once a win has
    been posted at every venue in Section A at every difficulty
    level.  A good way to 'cheat' here is to only race and win at
    each venue on Hard difficulty, for which the CPU
    automatically grants wins at the same venue at the lower
    difficulty levels; however, to unlock all the potential cars
    (available for Arcade Mode only), a player must RACE and win
    at each venue at each difficulty level.  Once a win has been
    posted for all Section A venues, Section B opens; this
    process continues until all Arcade Mode circuits have been
    unlocked and won.  To check the progress toward unlocking the
    next Section of courses, check Clear Status.
    
    Time Trial is a challenge of the driver against the clock.
    Besting the posted time at ALL of the ten Time Trial venues
    results in a bonus car which will be added to the Simulation
    Mode garage.
    
    Arcade Mode also includes 2-player Battle and iLink Battle
    (for more than two players).  Also, the Single Race and Tine
    Trial sections MUST be completed in order to achieve 100%
    game completion, which results in a bonus car added to the
    Simulation Mode garage.
    
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    SIMULATION MODE OVERVIEW
    Simulation Mode is where the vast majority of time is spent
    in playing Gran Turismo 3.  Fortunately, the main Simulation
    Mode menu is much easier to navigate than in Gran Turismo 2.
    After having spent at least a few hours in Arcade Mode,
    players should have a good handle on the physics engine of
    the game (which is very different from earlier games in the
    series) and how that will impact driving; this is important
    information for the License Tests.
    
    The License Center is where players acquire the licenses
    necessary for all but a few races in Simulation Mode.  Six
    licenses are available: B, A, IB, IA, Rally, and Super.  Each
    license is acquired by besting the posted Bronze Medal time
    for each of eight license tests; the first seven tests for a
    license MUST be successfully completed before attempting the
    eighth test.  The Rally License is required for Rally Events
    (even for the wet-based competitions in Rally Events); an IA
    License will suffice for all but a few races in the game (at
    the end of Professional League), and is a requirement to
    compete in the Endurance Races.  At the very least, players
    should work up through IA and Rally Licenses; save the Super
    License tests for much later, after considerable experience
    has been gained in Simulation Mode, as besting the Bronze
    Medal times for the tests for the Super License requires
    FLAWLESS high-speed driving of entire circuits.
    
    Car Dealer is where cars are purchased.  Initially, players
    are given 18,000Cr (in the North American version) to buy a
    starter car.  The Car Dealer is divided into countries, with
    each country further divided by manufacturer.  Within a
    manufacturer, cars are shown in order from lowest to highest
    price; cars without prices are relegated to the end of the
    list.  Cars shown in a dealership without a price tag can
    only be won by winning events or completing other tasks (such
    as winning all races in a League); many cars WITH prices
    shown may also be won or otherwise acquired as bonus cars.
    Also, there are some cars - such as the ever-popular F1 cars
    - which are not included in the showrooms which can be won in
    Simulation Mode by winning events.  Some cars are better to
    win than to purchase, as they are truly not worth their high
    price tags in dealerships; just two examples of these cars
    are the Panoz Esperante and the Suzuki Escudo Pikes Peak
    Version.  Unfortunately, Gran Turismo 3 does not include used
    cars, which made getting started in Gran Turismo 2 fairly
    simple and hassle-free.  More information on initial car
    choice is included later.
    
    Tune Shop is where parts and upgrades are purchased.  When
    first starting the game, it is very unlikely that enough
    money will remain after purchasing a car to buy upgrades.
    
    GT Auto is a collection of car-related services.  Car Wash
    will bring back the showroom shine of a car for a small fee;
    some players have reported that repeated use of the Car Wash
    dulls the color on darker-colored cars, but I have not
    noticed such a phenomenon in the game.  Oil Change will
    change the oil, and is recommended before entering any long
    race or series, and also before racing a car for the first
    time (due to the resultant slight increase in horsepower).
    Wheel Shop sells custom rims - varying by design and color -
    from nine different manufacturers; once purchased, rims are
    available for ALL cars in a garage, except for F1 cars (which
    cannot use customized rims).
    
    Machine Test is a good place to make adjustments and test
    either top-end speed or acceleration performance.  However,
    to truly test how a car performs on actual circuits, it is
    best to go to Run & Setting (located in Home).
    
    Go Race is where the races of Simulation Mode are located.
    The races are divided into Leagues, each further divided into
    single races and/or series and/or championships.  All events
    offer at least one bonus car for the winner - if only one
    bonus car is available, then it cannot be acquired again by
    reracing and winning again; events with more than one
    possible bonus car assign ONE bonus car at random, and more
    cars (perhaps even the same car) can be acquired by reracing
    and winning again and again and again and again and again and
    again and again and again and again and again and again and
    again and again and again and again and again and again and
    again and again and again and again and again and again and
    again and again and again and again and again and again and
    again and again and again and again and again and again and
    again and again and again and again and again and again and
    again and again and again and again and again and again and
    again and again and again and again and again and again and
    again and again and again and again and again and...
    
    Home is where the Garage is located; the Garage can hold
    nearly 200 cars maximum.  The Game Status area will indicate
    the licenses held, game completion percentage, win
    percentage, and other information.  Trade allows for trading
    cars to/from another memory card.  Run & Setting presents
    several pavement- and dirt-based venues where drivers can
    test their cars and make modifications.  Finally, game
    progress can be saved in Save Game, and the extensive game
    credits are located in Legal Credits.
    
    Note that should a player wish to reload the last game save
    on the memory card, this can only be done from the game's
    main menu (where the selection between Arcade Mode and
    Simulation Mode is made).
    
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    INITIAL CAR SELECTION
    When first starting in Gran Turismo 3, players have 18,000Cr
    with which to buy an initial car; any money remaining could
    immediately be used to buy parts, or saved for later use.
    There are many opinions from GT3 veterans as to which cars
    should be considered for a first purchase, but it all really
    comes down to player preference in drivetrain (based upon
    experiences in Arcade Mode, in previous Gran Turismo games,
    and in other driving/racing games) and - to a lesser extent -
    what is aesthetically pleasing.
    
    Here is a list - alphabetical by manufacturer, then by model
    - of the cars players can purchase with their initial
    18,000Cr (note that - except the Chrysler PT Cruise - ALL of
    these 'affordable' cars are from Japanese manufacturers):
    
    Chrysler     PT Cruiser                      FF    17,980Cr
    Daihatsu     Mira TR-X Avanzato R            FF    11,140Cr
    Daihatsu     Storia X4                       4WD   13,900Cr
    Mazda        Demio GL-X                      FF    14,660Cr
    Mazda        Miata MX-5                      FR    16,900Cr
    Mazda        Miata MX-5                      FR    17,000Cr
    Suzuki       Alto Works Suzuki Sports Ltd.   4WD   12,220Cr
    Toyota       Sprinter Trueno GT Apex         FR    13,550Cr
    Toyota       Vitz Euro Edition               FF    12,880Cr
    Toyota       Vitz RS 1.5                     FF    14,530Cr
    Volkswagon   New Beetle 2.0                  FF    15,930Cr
    
    For strategy purposes, players may wish to buy a relatively
    cheap car, such as the Suzuki Alto Works Suzuki Sports
    Limited (12,220Cr) or Toyota Vitz Euro Edition (12,880Cr), as
    this would leave a good amount of money to immediately buy
    parts or services to improve initial race performance.  In
    this case, a good place to begin tuning would be
    Lightweight/Stage 1 (Tune Shop -> Stability Control &
    Others), which costs about 5000Cr, depending on the car.
    Just a little reduction in weight can make a noticeable
    difference, especially when cornering.  Changing the oil
    immediately can also help by giving an initial boost in
    horsepower, generally ten percent of the car's rated
    horsepower; changing the oil costs 250Cr.
    
    Another strategy is to begin with the Toyota Vitz RS 1.5; the
    advantage of selecting this car is that it can be upgraded to
    eventually participate in the Vitz Races in both Beginners
    League and Professional League, thus providing extra venues
    to gain more money without requiring the purchase of
    additional cars later in the game (saving money in the long
    run).  Similarly, the Toyota Sprinter Trueno GT Apex may be a
    good starting car, as it can be upgraded to race in the 80's
    Sports Car Cup in Beginners and Amateur Leagues.  Likewise,
    the Chrysler PT Cruiser can be upgraded to race in the Stars
    and Stripes Grand Championship in Beginners and Amateur
    Leagues.
    
    Another strategy - one which is likely to create extreme
    frustration for many players - is to first attain Gold Medals
    in ALL the tests for any one License.  Achieving this
    difficult feat results in a bonus car which should have an
    inherent advantage over any of the CPU cars in the initial
    races of Beginners League; should this happen, all of the
    initial 18,000Cr can then be used to buy parts and/or
    services, thus creating a significant advantage over the
    competition from the very beginning of a driver's Simulation
    Mode racing career.  Alternatively, upon winning a bonus car,
    the initial 18,000Cr can be set aside and combined with the
    initial race earnings to purchase a new car sooner.
    
    ====================================
    
    GOING RACING: THE FIRST CAR
    Once a car has been chosen and any upgrades and/or oil
    changes performed, it is time to hit the pavement!!!  Many of
    the events in Beginners League have no license requirements,
    but ALL events in Beginners League will be available to those
    who have attained at least the A License.  Here is a list of
    the Beginners League events, along with their license
    requirements:
    
    Sunday Cup                             None
    Clubman Cup                            None
    FF Challenge                           None
    FR Challenge                           None
    MR Challenge                           None
    4WD Challenge                          None
    Lightweight K-Cup                      None
    Stars and Stripes Grand Championship   None
    Spider and Roadster                    None
    80's Sports Car Cup                    B
    Race of NA Sports                      B
    Race of Turbo Sports                   B
    Tourist Trophy                         B
    Legend of Silver Arrow                 B
    New Generation Sports Altezza Race     B
    Vitz Race                              None
    Honda Type-R Meeting                   None
    Mitsubishi Evolution Meeting           None
    New Beetle Cup                         B
    Gran Turismo World Championship        A
    
    Of the Beginners League races, A LOT of time is likely to be
    spent in Sunday Cup and Clubman Cup, racing the same venues
    over and over and over and over and over and over and over
    and over and over and over and over and over and over and
    over and over and over and over and over and over and over
    and over and over and over and over and over and over and
    over and over and over and over and over and over and over
    and over and over and over and over again.  This is the most
    frustrating part about starting in Gran Turismo 3, as the
    initial races do not pay very well for the winner due to the
    extremely low entry requirements.  However, winning all races
    in Sunday Cup and Clubman Cup results in one bonus car per
    series, which can then be sold to gain additional money (or
    held in the Garage for use later in the game).
    
    As money accumulates, there are two strategies which come
    into play.  One strategy is to keep upgrading the current car
    (especially if it is a Vitz, Trueno, or PT Cruiser, as these
    cars can enter car-specific events in the latter half of
    Beginners League) to increase the likelihood of winning, thus
    gaining more money for more upgrades, and moving on to other
    races which provide a higher payout; when the chosen car can
    go no further in upgrades and cannot be viable in new races,
    save money to buy a second car, or upgrade a car won in
    earlier series.  The second strategy is to NEVER perform
    upgrades, and buy a second car as soon as possible; this is
    really only a viable option for those who won a car by
    attaining all Gold Medals in the tests for any one License -
    otherwise, drivers can expect to spend A LOT of time reracing
    the same low-paying events.
    
    ====================================
    
    GOING RACING: THE SECOND CAR
    Eventually, the initial car cannot enter new races and be a
    viable contender to win, and cannot handle any more upgrades.
    Fortunately, by the time this occurs, a driver should have
    received multiple bonus cars for winning various series.  One
    of these cars can be selected and upgraded, then taken to new
    events; or, if a driver has enough money, a brand-new car can
    be purchased from the dealerships (again, Gran Turismo 3 does
    NOT include used cars).
    
    If possible, the second car should be able to handle Dirt
    Tires.  With possession of a Rally License (one of the easier
    licenses to acquire), the second car can then be taken to
    Rally Events.  If upgraded enough, the second car can sweep
    through Rally Events, thus amassing 350,000Cr and a total of
    eleven bonus rally cars - which can either be kept in the
    Garage or sold to gain more money.  For this purpose, I
    always use the Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VII GSR(J) as my
    second car; this 4WD car costs 29,980Cr from the dealership
    and is available in seven colors.
    
    Even if the chosen second car cannot handle Dirt Tires, Rally
    Events can still be a good place to race.  The final two
    events in Rally Events are wet-based events: Super Special
    Route 5 Wet (run counterclockwise) and Super Special Route 5
    Wet II (run clockwise).  While a Rally License is still
    required to participate in these events, Dirt Tires are not
    used, so ANY car in the game can compete here - even the F1
    cars.  Winning all three races in each of these two events
    results in two bonus rally cars - which automatically come
    with Dirt Tires, so they can be upgraded to compete in any of
    the other events in Rally Events (rally cars also come with
    Medium Tires as standard equipment, so they can also compete
    in the many pavement-based events in the game).
    
    ====================================
    
    GOING RACING: MAJOR MONEY, FAST CARS
    One of the keys to success in Gran Turismo 3 is earning
    money.  Money can be used to buy cars, certainly, but most of
    the cars a driver is likely to use in the many races can be
    won from various events; therefore, money may be best spent
    on upgrading the cars in the garage.
    
    As alluded to previously, Rally Events is a great place to
    gain money.  Sweeping through Rally Events results in
    350,000Cr total and eleven rally cars, including the
    insanely-fast Suzuki Escudo.  Here are the rally cars which
    can be won (listed alphabetically by manufacturer), along
    with their resale values should more money be needed later in
    the game:
    
    Citroen Xsara Rally Car                    87,500Cr
    Ford Escort Rally Car                      87,500Cr
    Ford Focus Rally Car                       87,000Cr
    Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VI Rally Car   75,000Cr
    Peugeot 206 Rally Car                      87,500Cr
    Subaru Imprezza Rally Car                  75,000Cr
    Subaru Imprezza Rally Car Prototype        87,500Cr
    Suzuki Escudo Pikes Peak Version           250,000Cr
    Toyota Celica Rally car                    75,000Cr
    Toyota Corolla Rally Car                   75,000Cf
    
    Another tip for fast money as well as fast cars is to tune a
    car in the garage to complete laps at Super Speedway with a
    maximum time of forty seconds.  Then, add Super-slick Tires
    (approximately 10,000Cr) and go to the Super Speedway 150
    Miles Endurance Race.  This 100-lap event requires an IA
    License, and results in 200,000Cr for winning, plus one of
    four good bonus race cars: F090/S, Chevrolet Corvette C5R,
    Renault Clio Sports Race Car, or Tickford Falcon XR8 Race Car
    (remember that the bonus car is assigned at random).  Of
    these four, the F090/S is the best, as are ALL the F1 cars in
    the game.  The reason this race is suggested is because it is
    one of the shortest Endurance Races in the game, requiring
    approximately fifty minutes to complete with a REALLY fast
    car (any F1 car, Toyota GT-One Race Car, Mazda 787B, etc.) or
    up to eighty minutes with a slower car.  Using Super-slick
    Tires allows a car to stay on the racetrack much longer
    between Pit Stops to change tires, but at the sacrifice of
    pavement grip.  The Seattle 100 Miles Endurance Race is also
    a fairly short race; its forty laps can be completed in
    approximately fifty minutes to complete with a REALLY fast
    car (any F1 car, Toyota GT-One Race Car, etc.) or up to
    eighty minutes with a slower car, but the Seattle venue is
    FAR more complex than Super Speedway (and beware the right-
    angle turn at the top of the steep three-tiered uphill
    climb).
    
    ====================================
    
    TUNING BASICS
    Logic dictates that higher levels of parts or services
    provide better performance; this certainly holds true in Gran
    Turismo 3.  However, extreme care is required in tuning a car
    to ensure it performs admirably at each venue.  Therefore, it
    is important to remember that THERE IS NO 'GLOBAL' TUNING
    SETTING FOR ALL CARS AT ALL VENUES.  (The closest 'global'
    setting that exists is not a setting at all; except for Like
    the Wind and Formula GT - the final events in Professional
    League - the F1 cars are unbelievably quick and agile due in
    large part to their low center of gravity, and can easily
    outclass the competition at virtually any event for which F1
    cars are legal entries, thus they are virtually a 'guarantee'
    for winning.)
    
    Set-ups for each car can be saved for use later in the game.
    Especially for those cars which may be entered into non-tuned
    events (such as the Trial Mountain 2 Hours Endurance Race),
    saving the default set-up of the car immediately following
    purchase or receipt can be very helpful later in the game,
    thus eliminating the need to manually reset all parts and
    their settings to default status before entering a non-tuned
    event.
    
    At the final screen before entering an actual race, there are
    a number of yellow boxes at the bottom of the screen
    signifying menu selections; only Qualify and Settings are
    important for tuning.  Selecting Settings produces another
    menu; selecting Change Parts allows the player to add or
    remove parts to the chosen vehicle, while Settings allows for
    customization of the various parts (the more important
    settings will be discussed in a moment).  Once any adjustment
    to parts and/or settings have been completed, they can be
    tested for that same venue by returning to the pre-race menu
    and selecting Qualifying; after an out-lap, the stopwatch
    begins to function, allowing the driver to test the most
    recent modifications and compare lap times.  If the changes
    are not acceptable, they can be reworked in Settings; or, if
    the changes produce agreeable results, they can be saved in
    Save Settings.  Should a previously-saved file of settings be
    needed, they can be performed instantly by using Load
    Settings.
    
    Some important settings in tuning:
       Brake Controller: This controls the power of the brakes
          for both the front and the rear of the vehicle.  Using
          a high value (20+) for both front and rear brakes
          allows the car to drive deeper into a corner or braking
          zone before the brakes are actually needed to slow
          properly for the corner.  Conversely, a low value to
          the front and rear brakes results in a much longer
          braking zone, which allows competitors to easily pass
          for position on corner entry.
       Downforce: Not all cars can handle downforce; those that
          do generally have wings (such as the F1 cars) or have
          spoilers.  Raising downforce slows the car by using
          airflow to help push the vehicle onto the ground, a
          very important consideration for lighter cars such as
          the Toyota GT-One Race Car; cornering can be safely
          done at higher speeds, but top-end straight-line speed
          is sacrificed.  Conversely, lowering downforce allows
          for faster top-end straight-line speed, but at the
          sacrifice of cornering ability.  If managed properly,
          oversteer and understeer can be induced and corrected
          using downforce.  For Test Course, only absolute
          minimum downforce should be used, especially in the
          Like the Wind event.
       Gearbox: Only by purchasing a Full Racing Transmission
          (included as standard equipment on race cars) can
          gear customization be performed.  The easiest way to
          customize the gear selection is to use the auto-setting
          slider at the bottom of the gearbox screen.  Moving the
          slider toward Wide results in faster top-end speed, but
          at the sacrifice of acceleration; moving the slider
          toward Sport results in great acceleration, but a lower
          top-end speed.  However, DO NOT position the slider at
          full-Wide, as the engine may not be able to rev enough
          to climb into the higher gear(s) and stay there; this
          condition, however, can be remedied to some extent by
          lowering downforce as much as possible.  A general rule
          for gear customization is for the rev limiter to take
          effect (the car's speed suddenly drops from maximum by
          5-10MPH/KPH) just at the very end of the longest
          straightaway of a given circuit.
       Ride Height: While downforce controls airflow over a car,
          ride height handles airflow underneath a car by varying
          the distance between the racing surface and the car's
          undertray.  Raising ride height allows for more air to
          pass beneath the car, thus slowing the car due to
          aerodynamic friction, and assisting with cornering.
          Lowering ride height reduces the amount of air passing
          underneath the car, thereby reducing aerodynamic
          friction and assisting in attaining faster speeds.
       Stabilizers: As the name suggests, stabilizers are meant
          to keep the vehicle from spinning or flipping.  By
          raising the value of the stabilizers, spins and flips
          are more difficult to perform, but cornering becomes
          more difficult; reducing the value of the stabilizers
          makes cornering much easier, but also increases the
          likelihood of spinning or flipping the vehicle.  (Note
          that it is theoretically impossible to flip a car in
          Gran Turismo 3.)  Stabilizers are available for most
          cars at both the front and the rear; playing with the
          stabilizers can induce or correct oversteer and
          understeer.
    
    Tires are officially a part.  Race cars come with Medium
    Tires as standard equipment; rally cars come with both Dirt
    Tires and Medium Tires as standard equipment; all other cars
    use Normal Tires as standard equipment.  In the beginning of
    the game, upgrading from Normal Tires to Sports Tires
    provides better grip, but Sports Tires are still far inferior
    to the racing compounds.  The racing compounds vary in
    durability and the amount of grip they provide, with Super-
    slick Tires providing maximum durability and minimum grip,
    and Super-soft Tires providing maximum grip and minimum
    durability; Medium Tires are the middle-ground option
    concerning durability and grip.  In races of five or more
    laps, tire selection is key to Pit Stop Strategy, as the
    tires are the only serviceable parts in a race.
    
    ====================================
    
    TIRES
    As a 2001 Michelin commercial (shown in the States) states,
    the tires are the only safety features on the road which
    actually TOUCH the road.  Implicit in this commercial is the
    message that special care must be given to tires.  In the
    case of Michelin, this means that choosing Michelin tires is
    far safer than choosing any other brand of tires (note that
    this series of commercials has been running since LONG before
    the Firestone/Ford controversy erupted in 2000).
    
    In the case of Gran Turismo 3, this same implicit message -
    that the tires are the only safety features on the road which
    actually TOUCH the road - means that special care must be
    given to the tires to keep them from wearing out too quickly.
    This is especially important given that the only reason to
    enter Pit Lane in GT3 is to change tires - fuel, damage
    repair, etc., are not at issue in GT3.
    
    Of course, there are instances where tire wear is never an
    issue.  None of the Arcade Mode races use tire wear, unless
    you specifically induce Professional League races (codes
    available elsewhere).  Similarly, the Beginner races and some
    Amateur races are simply too short for tire wear to become an
    issue.  Tire wear is also not involved in any of the Rally
    races, as - again - those races are too short for tire wear
    to become a factor.  Many Amateur and ALL Professional and
    Endurance races, however, do include tire wear as one of the
    'features' of each race.
    
    ====================================
    
    TIRES: SELECTION
    Tire selection is very important.  This is the first variable
    in race performance (if based on tires alone).
    
    For non-racing cars intended for mundane street use, Normal
    tires are standard issue.  While Normal tires may work well
    on the highway and on city streets, they are virtually
    worthless in an actual racing situation.  Normal tires do not
    provide adequate grip to be effective in racing.  This is
    most noticeable when trying to corner at relatively high
    speeds with a vehicle with Normal tires.
    
    Simulation tires supposedly give a more accurate feel of what
    it is like to drive a racing-tuned car.
    
    Sports tires are a little better than Normal tires.  When
    first playing Gran Turismo 3, one of the best things you can
    do to improve your chance of success is to upgrade to Sports
    tires as soon as possible.  This will improve your cornering
    ability, and provide a little more grip for acceleration
    (especially from a standing start).
    
    Dirt tires are required for dirt-based Rally events.  All
    rally-intended cars come with Dirt tires.  Many non-racing
    cars can also be equipped with Dirt tires.  For example, I
    used a Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VII GSR(J) equipped with
    Dirt tires - with a lot of money spent on parts and time
    spent in tuning - to compete in and win ALL the dirt-based
    Rally events.  (The same car also won in ALL the wet-based
    Rally events.)
    
    Racing tires come in an array of 'flavors,' with each tire
    compound giving a varying level of grip countered by an
    inverse level of durability.
       Super-slick    Least grip, maximum durability
       Slick
       Medium-slick
       Medium*        Average grip, average durability
       Medium-soft
       Soft
       Super-soft     Maximum grip, least durability
    * For F1 cars, Medium Tires are the ONLY tire option
    available (likely due to the lack of an FIA license for GT3).
    All race-dedicated cars (including F1 cars) come equipped
    with Medium Tires.
    
    A very important issue in tire selection actually involves
    horsepower.  The chosen tires need to have some measure of
    durability, or else you will be stopping in Pit Lane to
    change tires after virtually every lap of the race.  For
    example, a maxed-out Suzuki Escudo Pikes Peak Version
    (1841HP) will be putting down so much power on the road that
    Super-soft tires will almost instantly become worthless.  In
    other words, don't allow the car's horsepower to overdrive
    the tires' ability to function properly.
    
    In the event that the chosen tires wear out too much (orange
    or red tire indicators), cornering at any respectable speed
    will be virtually impossible, instead causing a nearly-
    uncontrollable slide into a barrier or into another vehicle.
    Strong acceleration will likely cause the vehicle to spin.  A
    good driver will not let this happen very often; an expert
    driver will NEVER let this happen.
    
    Choose your pitting strategy so that your tires never become
    too worn.  A set of tires needs to last AT LEAST 5 laps in
    order to give you a chance of winning a race.  Of course, the
    greater the durability of a set of tires, the longer you can
    stay out of Pit Lane, thereby reducing your number of Pit
    Stops in a race; however, greater durability means less grip,
    which in turn means that you are quite likely to slide more
    often unless you take VERY good care of the tires.
    
    ====================================
    
    TIRES: CARE
    At the beginning of a race and immediately after a Pit Stop,
    the tires are brand new ('stickers') and need to be brought
    up to temperature as quickly as possible so that they can
    provide the best possible grip.  This is noted by dark blue
    tire indicators.  During this period, sharp turns or
    extremely-fast cornering will almost certainly cause the car
    to slide, and perhaps even spin.  However, slides and spins
    will bring the tires up to optimum temperature even faster,
    so you may wish to purposely induce slides when entering
    corners, IF the tire indicators are dark blue.
    
    Once the tire indicators are green, the tires have reached
    their optimum performance temperature, thus providing you
    with the best possible grip for that set of tires.  The
    amount of time the tire indicators remain in the green color
    range depends on your driving style, the amount of time off-
    course (in the grass or sand) or banging the barriers (or
    other cars), and the initial selection of tire compound.
    
    As the tire indicators switch to yellow, you need to start
    taking better care of your tires.  You may experience slides
    when cornering.
    
    Orange tire indicators are a warning to get to Pit Lane to
    change tires as soon as you possibly can.  You will be
    sliding around a lot more.
    
    Red tire indicators are effectively Game Over.  Unless you
    have a HUGE (multi-lap) lead or a significant horsepower
    advantage over your competitors, you will not have a chance
    of winning the race, especially if you stop to change tires.
    Essentially, you are driving on pure ice, and the only way to
    'reliably' get around the circuit is to ride the rails -
    which is inherently more difficult with the open-wheel F1
    vehicles.
    
    Note that not all four tire indicators will not be the same
    color at all times.  If even ONE tire shows a red indicator,
    you need to limp back to Pit Lane to change tires as soon as
    possible.
    
    Traction Control affects tire durability.  With a low
    Traction Control setting, the tires will spin for a while
    (especially on a standing start or when under strong
    acceleration) before they actually grip the pavement; the
    friction of the pre-grip spinning wears away at the tires.
    With a high Traction Control setting, wheel spin is reduced
    or even eliminated, thus extending the durability of the
    tires.
    
    One of the best ways to reduce the durability of the tires is
    to corner at high speeds.  The GT3 manual gives an excellent,
    detailed description of what occurs with the tires when
    cornering.  In short, cornering at high speeds causes a high
    percentage of the tire to be used for speed, and a low
    percentage to be used for the actual cornering.  To combat
    this and thus extend the durability of the tires, try to
    brake in a STRAIGHT line before reaching a turn, thus
    reducing overall speed and providing a lower percentage of
    the tires to be used for speed, and a greater percentage used
    for cornering.
    
    Note that if the percentage of the tires used for speed is
    too high compared to the percentage used for cornering, the
    car will slide and/or spin.
    
    Perhaps one of the best things to do to learn to take care of
    the tires is to play a racing game (such as the recently-
    released F1 2001) in which vehicle damage of available.
    Playing with the damage option on will certainly make the
    effects of worn tires quite visual.  As tire grip wears away
    (due to a long run, multiple off-track excursions, etc.),
    your car may begin sliding around, potentially resulting in
    car damage (broken and missing parts), which REALLY makes
    driving a nightmare at high speeds.  The Gran Turismo series
    does not make this visibly clear, so it is easy to
    underestimate the condition of the tires; similarly, without
    any car damage (due to licensing concerns), cars in the Gran
    Turismo series can simply "ride the rails" around corners
    when tire conditions are less than optimal.
    
    However, all of this CAN be thrown out the window, and you
    CAN win even an Endurance Race with red tire indicators and
    never stopping to change tires.  I myself did this is the
    Trial Mountain 2 Hours Endurance Race using a Zonda C12S and
    Normal (street) tires.  The only reason I won, however, was
    that I had superior horsepower to the other cars in the race.
    While it CAN be done, I very strongly suggest AGAINST
    attempting such a feat!!!!!
    
    ====================================
    
    TIRES: TWO EXCEPTIONS
    There are two circuits where tire wear need not be an issue:
    Test Course and Super Speedway.  For both circuits, the car
    should be tuned for maximum speed, which usually means a high
    gear ratio, and low downforce and ride height.  If you can
    select the tires you want (which means you are not driving an
    F1 car), you may as well go with Super-slick tires, as they
    will last the longest.
    
    For Test Course, the two banked turns are so extremely gentle
    that if you slide at all, the banking will usually prevent
    you from sliding up into the outer barrier.  Even if you do
    hit the outer barrier, simply ride the rails until you can
    regain control of the car.
    
    For Super Speedway, simply ride the rails if necessary.  In
    the Endurance race at Super Speedway (100 laps), you may wish
    to stop once or twice to change tires, but with a really fast
    and powerful car (such as a maxed-out Suzuki Escudo Pikes
    Peak Version), you will EASILY win - in my case (two
    Endurance races, one with the Suzuki Escudo, one with an F1
    car), I won by more than 30 laps over the second-place car.
    
    For both circuits, change parts to gain maximum horsepower
    output and speed off.  In my own experience, virtually any
    car above 650HP will either be in contention to win the race,
    or will simply leave everyone else in the choking on exhaust
    based on horsepower alone.
    
    ====================================
    
    TIRES: INPUT FROM OTHERS
    
    I received a pair of e-mails from PJ (e-mail address
    withheld) concerning tires and braking.  His information is
    rather technical, but is definitely useful to know:
    
       From: "pj"
       To: <FEATHER7@IX.NETCOM.COM>
       Subject: gt3 braking & ford racing
       Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 06:31:23 -0400
    
       enjoy all of your writings which i've read thus far.
    
       most recently read your gt3 tires faq.  good stuff.
    
       having had some road racing experience (decades ago when
       it was less expensive to race), i would like to share some
       info on braking with you.
    
       haven't read the skip barber portion of the gt3 manual yet
       so don't know if what i'm about to say is included in it.
       perhaps i read your tire faq too fast & didn't notice it
       there.  if so, please excuse me.
    
       if gt3 is a real sim, then braking should be performed
       just as an actual road racer would.
    
       typically, for most turns, approximately 85% of your
       braking is performed in a straight line.  obviously, this
       % varies depending upon the unique characteristics of each
       turn.  the remaining approx. 15% is performed while
       entering the turn, before apexing the turn.  this is known
       as "trail braking".  its purpose is to continue to
       transfer weight to the front tires, thus increasing the
       tire's contact patch which results in greater cornering
       ability.  get on the gas too soon and weight transfers to
       the rear wheels resulting in the car "pushing" (under-
       steering) off-line and perhaps off the course as well or
       into a barrier.
    
       i've found that proper "trail braking" allows for carrying
       higher speed through the corners, just as it would in real
       life.  this is a very difficult skill to master.
    
       braking technique & tire management are perhaps, in my
       humble opinion, two of the most important aspects of gt3
       racing (as they are in real life).  Car setup while
       extremely important in real road racing, does not seem to
       be as important in gt3.  it certainly helps, and can help
       a great deal, but it is not necessary to winning a race
       even with an under powered car.  besides, if one doesn't
       know what they're doing, they can sure mess up the
       handling of a car.  the "stock" or standard suspension
       settings seem to work just fine with few exceptions.
       proper braking allows for carrying higher exit speeds
       out of corners and for the most prevalent passing maneuver
       in real racing (and in gt3 also), viz. "overtaking under
       braking".
    
       while this rarely happens unless i don't select a good pit
       strategy, if it's late in a race & pitting might cause me
       to lose or i don't want to run 2 laps on super-slick cold
       (blue) tires, then i just finish the last lap or two on
       orange or red tires.  just as in real life, this increases
       the braking distance, so the driver (player) must adjust
       the braking points accordingly.  with care and somewhat
       slower lap times (usually 3-4 seconds per lap for most
       courses), one can run several laps on red tires.  Handling
       is very mushy and it's easy to exceed the worn tire's
       limits, and the car is twitchy at high speed, but it can
       be done.
    
       ====================================
    
       From: "pj"
       To: "Wolf Feather" <feather7@ix.netcom.com>
       Subject: Re: gt3 braking & ford racing
       Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 03:26:18 -0400
    
       forgot to mention that with a close ratio gear-box,
       downshifting and pulling high revs can produce "engine
       braking" which can be used for "trail braking".  this is
       especially easy to do in GT3 with a manual transmission
       especially since there is no risk of over-revving the
       engine and "blowing" or "grenading" it, and since
       repeatedly bouncing the engine off of the rev-limiter does
       NOT produce the real-world vibrations that can, over time,
       damage an engine or crack headers.
    
    ====================================
    ====================================
    ====================================
    
    GENERAL SET-UPS
    The purpose of this section is to provide players with a
    general idea of the tuning requirements for virtually any car
    used at a given circuit in Gran Turismo 3.  Some of the
    tuning suggestions presented here require specific parts,
    which may or may not be standard equipment and which may or
    may not be available for a given car in the Tune Shop.  Also,
    tires are specifically not discussed here, as tire choice
    (other than Dirt Tires) is dictated more by the length of a
    race and each player's driving style than by the
    configuration of a circuit.
    
    In the Gran Turismo series, a 'II' designation indicates that
    a race will be held in the reverse configuration for that
    circuit.  The 'II' designation is not used for all circuits.
    However, car set-ups for a reverse-configuration race will
    generally be the same as for a regular-configuration race at
    the same venue.
    
    On a very important note, these suggestions can largely be
    discarded when using F1 cars, due to their inherent
    advantages in acceleration, top-end speed, and cornering
    ability.  Also, variances must be allowed for a car's weight,
    drivetrain, horsepower, etc.
    
    ====================================
    ====================================
    ====================================
    
    GENERAL SET-UPS: APRICOT HILL RACEWAY (II)
    Apricot Hill Raceway is generally a rather fast circuit; even
    many of the corners can be taken at a medium or high rate of
    speed; however, the hairpin behind the Paddocks and the final
    chicane are both very slow corners (about 50MPH), which makes
    a high-speed set-up a bit precarious in these areas.  There
    should not be much need to ride the rumble strips here,
    although it can be quite useful in the final chicane.
    
    Ride Height:                   Medium-low, to keep from
                                      bottoming out in the slow
                                      sections (which are located
                                      at the lowest part of
                                      valleys
    Stabilizers:                   Low, to make up for the lack
                                      of downforce
    Brake Balance :                Medium to high
    Gear Ratio (Auto Setting):     Medium-Wide
    Downforce:                     Relatively low
    
    ====================================
    
    GENERAL SET-UPS: COTE D'AZUR/MONACO
    This is by far the most technical circuit in Gran Turismo 3.
    Not only is this circuit narrow, there are virtually NO
    straightaways here, so top-end speed is not an issue.  The
    benefit to using longer gear ratios (closer to 'Wide') is
    that there will be less chance of wheelspin, which will
    unnecessarily accelerate tire wear; on the other hand, using
    shorter gear ratios (closer to 'Sport') will provide the
    acceleration needed to power out of corners and pass a
    competitor before the next corner.  Expect to ride the rumble
    strips at several locations here, notably the chicane just
    beyond the exit of The Tunnel.
    
    Spring Rate:                   Soft
    Ride Height:                   High
    Shock Absorbers:               Soft
    Stabilizers:                   As soft as a player's driving
                                      style and comfort level
                                      will allow
    Brake Balance :                VERY high (20+)
    Gear Ratio (Auto Setting):     Medium-Sport
    Downforce:                     High, to assist in cornering
    
    ====================================
    
    GENERAL SET-UPS: DEEP FOREST RACEWAY (II)
    Perhaps the most scenic race venue in Gran Turismo 3, Deep
    Forest Raceway has only one long straightaway (Pit Straight),
    although lack of traffic and good reflexes can make the
    section from the low area up through the tunnels a good place
    to attain top speeds as the circuit continually fades from
    side to side.  The place where the most clock time can
    potentially be lost is the first third of the circuit, with
    its hairpin corner at the end of Pit Straight and its tight,
    twisty corners running through the forest and into tunnels.
    Players can expect to use the rumble strips and to drop
    wheels off the pavement fairly regularly.
    
    Spring Rate:                   Soft
    Ride Height:                   Medium
    Shock Absorbers:               Soft
    Stabilizers:                   As soft as a player's driving
                                      style and comfort level
                                      will allow
    Brake Balance :                Medium-high
    Gear Ratio (Auto Setting):     Medium-Wide
    Downforce:                     Medium
    
    ====================================
    
    GENERAL SET-UPS: GRAND VALLEY SPEEDWAY (II)
    The longest circuit in Gran Turismo 3, Grand Valley Speedway
    is also fairly scenic.  Due to its length and the tricky
    final sector (when run in the forward configuration), tire
    management is key here, or else too much time will be lost in
    trying to keep the car on the pavement.
    
    Spring Rate:                   Medium
    Ride Height:                   Medium-low
    Shock Absorbers:               Medium
    Stabilizers:                   Medium
    Brake Balance :                Medium-high
    Gear Ratio (Auto Setting):     Medium-wide
    Downforce:                     Medium
    
    ====================================
    
    GENERAL SET-UPS: LAGUNA SECA RACEWAY
    This is the home of the world-famous Corkscrew (Turns 8A and
    9), the tight left-right chicane on a steep downhill slope
    beginning just beyond the crest of the circuit.  Safely
    navigating the Corkscrew as well as the final corner (a tight
    perpendicular left-hand turn) can result in low lap times.
    using the rumble strips is almost certainly a must for most
    corners, but the rumble strips are fortunately not very tall,
    which means the car is not very likely to jump when rolling
    onto them.
    
    Spring Rate:                   Medium
    Ride Height:                   Medium
    Shock Absorbers:               Medium
    Stabilizers:                   Medium-low
    Brake Balance :                Medium-high
    Gear Ratio (Auto Setting):     Medium-Wide
    Downforce:                     Medium-low
    
    ====================================
    
    GENERAL SET-UPS: MIDFIELD RACEWAY (II)
    This circuit is in a figure-eight formation and contains many
    types of corners, which makes this a somewhat-technical venue
    despite the high speeds attainable on several of the
    straightaways.  Rumble strips are very important here.
    
    Spring Rate:                   Soft
    Ride Height:                   Medium-low
    Shock Absorbers:               Soft
    Stabilizers:                   Medium-low
    Brake Balance :                Medium-high
    Gear Ratio (Auto Setting):     Medium-Wide
    Downforce:                     Medium-low
    
    ====================================
    
    GENERAL SET-UPS: ROME CIRCUIT (II)
    This street circuit provides many high-speed runs (some with
    straightaways, some with fades) and four notable slow
    corners.  This circuit is also almost entirely flat.
    
    Spring Rate:                   Medium-high
    Ride Height:                   Lowest possible setting
    Shock Absorbers:               Medium-high
    Stabilizers:                   Medium-low
    Brake Balance :                Medium-high
    Gear Ratio (Auto Setting):     Medium-Wide
    Downforce:                     Medium-low
    
    ====================================
    
    GENERAL SET-UPS: SEATTLE CIRCUIT (II)
    This is perhaps the most scenic street circuit in Gran
    Turismo 3; unfortunately, the famous Space Needle is only
    seen far in the distance between the old buildings.  This is
    a fairly technical circuit, especially the upper portion of
    the circuit (where most of a lap is spent) and the final
    chicane at Pit Entry.  The multi-tiered uphill climb (in the
    forward configuration) is extremely treacherous, as the very
    top of the incline contains a right-hand right-angle corner
    with little swing-out room.  Also, beware of the railroad
    tracks, especially when entering the chicane between the old
    and new stadiums.
    
    Spring Rate:                   Medium-low
    Ride Height:                   Medium-high
    Shock Absorbers:               Soft
    Stabilizers:                   As low as a player's comfort
                                      level and driving style
                                      will allow
    Brake Balance :                High
    Gear Ratio (Auto Setting):     Medium-Wide
    Downforce:                     Medium
    
    ====================================
    
    GENERAL SET-UPS: SMOKEY MOUNTAIN (II)
    This is one of the four dirt-based Rally Events circuits in
    Gran Turismo 3.  Those who have played Gran Turismo 2 will
    notice that this circuit has been given pavement along the
    entire front stretch.  This circuit can easily send cars
    airborne, especially at either end of the paved sections in
    either the forward or reverse configuration.
    
    Spring Rate:                   Soft
    Ride Height:                   High
    Shock Absorbers:               Soft
    Stabilizers:                   Medium-high
    Brake Balance :                Medium
    Gear Ratio (Auto Setting):     Medium
    Downforce:                     Medium-high
    
    ====================================
    
    GENERAL SET-UPS: SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11 (II)
    This nighttime street circuit has returned from the original
    Gran Turismo, with a few noticeable changes.  This is also a
    highly-technical circuit, although passing is far easier than
    at Cote d'Azur/Monaco.  Cornering ability is key here, even
    if it means hitting the rev limiter on the straightaways
    (especially on Pit Straight).
    
    Spring Rate:                   Medium-high
    Ride Height:                   Medium
    Shock Absorbers:               Medium-high
    Stabilizers:                   As low as a player's comfort
                                      level and driving style
                                      will allow
    Brake Balance :                VERY high (20+)
    Gear Ratio (Auto Setting):     Medium-low
    Downforce:                     Medium-high
    
    ====================================
    
    GENERAL SET-UPS: SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 5 (II)
    This is another nighttime street circuit.  SSR5 is not quite
    as fast as SSR11 (above), but good speeds can still be
    attained, primarily on Pit Straight.
    
    Spring Rate:                   Medium-high
    Ride Height:                   Medium
    Shock Absorbers:               Medium-high
    Stabilizers:                   As low as a player's comfort
                                      level and driving style
                                      will allow
    Brake Balance :                High
    Gear Ratio (Auto Setting):     Medium
    Downforce:                     Medium-high
    
    ====================================
    
    GENERAL SET-UPS: SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 5 WET (II)
    This is the same as SSR5 (above), but the circuit is full of
    water.  This creates some nice visual effects and shows the
    graphics prowess of the PlayStation2, but it means that
    hydroplaning is a very real possibility.  Because of the vast
    amount of water on the pavement, any hard or fast changes in
    speed or direction severely raise the risk of losing car
    control - and once car control is lost, regaining control
    within the concrete canyons is virtually impossible until the
    car cones to a complete standstill.  Do not plan on attaining
    a lot of speed here.
    
    Spring Rate:                   Medium
    Ride Height:                   Medium
    Shock Absorbers:               Medium
    Stabilizers:                   Medium
    Brake Balance :                High
    Gear Ratio (Auto Setting):     Medium-Sport
    Downforce:                     Medium-low
    
    ====================================
    
    GENERAL SET-UPS: SUPER SPEEDWAY
    This is one of the easiest circuits for finding optimal car
    set-ups.
    
    Spring Rate:                   Medium
    Ride Height:                   As low as possible
    Shock Absorbers:               Medium-high
    Stabilizers:                   Medium-low
    Brake Balance :                Medium-high
    Gear Ratio (Auto Setting):     Medium-Wide
    Downforce:                     As low as possible
    
    ====================================
    
    GENERAL SET-UPS: SWISS ALPS (II)
    This is another dirt-based track in Rally Events.  This is a
    rather tricky venue, with many blind and semi-blind corners.
    Also, the circuit narrows for the wooden bridge on its back
    side, but this narrowing is VERY difficult to spot,
    especially in the reverse configuration as the entry to the
    bridge is shrouded in dark sunset shadows.
    
    Spring Rate:                   Soft
    Ride Height:                   High
    Shock Absorbers:               Soft
    Stabilizers:                   Medium-high
    Brake Balance :                Medium
    Gear Ratio (Auto Setting):     Medium
    Downforce:                     Medium
    
    ====================================
    
    GENERAL SET-UPS: TAHITI CIRCUIT (II)
    This is another dirt-based track in Rally Events.  This is a
    fairly quick circuit in terms of speed, although the
    consecutive hairpins can be tricky.
    
    Spring Rate:                   Soft
    Ride Height:                   Medium-high
    Shock Absorbers:               Soft
    Stabilizers:                   Medium-high
    Brake Balance :                Medium
    Gear Ratio (Auto Setting):     Medium
    Downforce:                     Medium-low
    
    ====================================
    
    GENERAL SET-UPS: TAHITI MAZE (II)
    This is another dirt-based track in Rally Events, and is the
    absolute trickiest Rally Events circuit.  This circuit very
    much feels like a maze, as there are multiple consecutive
    hairpins in multiple sections of the circuit.  Due to the
    importance of cornering and the very short straightaways, do
    not expect to attain high speeds.
    
    Spring Rate:                   Soft
    Ride Height:                   Medium-high
    Shock Absorbers:               Soft
    Stabilizers:                   Medium-low
    Brake Balance :                Medium
    Gear Ratio (Auto Setting):     Medium-low
    Downforce:                     Medium-high
    
    ====================================
    
    GENERAL SET-UPS: TEST COURSE
    This is one of the easiest circuits for finding optimal car
    set-ups.  There is absolutely NO reason to use the brakes
    here at all.
    
    Spring Rate:                   As hard as possible
    Ride Height:                   As low as possible
    Shock Absorbers:               As hard as possible
    Stabilizers:                   As high as possible
    Brake Balance :                Does not matter - the brakes
                                      are not needed at all
    Gear Ratio (Auto Setting):     VERY close to Wide, but NOT
                                      fully-Wide (or else the
                                      engine will likely not be
                                      able to rev high enough to
                                      climb into and remain in
                                      the car's highest gears)
    Downforce:                     As low as possible
    
    ====================================
    
    GENERAL SET-UPS: TOKYO R246 (II)
    Set in Tokyo surrounding the grounds of the Imperial Palace,
    Tokyo R246 is a fun, fast, mostly-flat, semi-technical
    circuit which is very reminiscent of Ridge Racer V on Pit
    Straight (those familiar with RRV may well wonder why Fukami
    Ai is not standing in the middle of Pit Straight).  The back
    section of the circuit features fast consecutive blind and
    semi-blind corners, so intimate knowledge of the circuit is
    required to perform well here.
    
    Spring Rate:                   Medium-high
    Ride Height:                   Low
    Shock Absorbers:               Medium-high
    Stabilizers:                   Medium-low
    Brake Balance :                High
    Gear Ratio (Auto Setting):     Medium-Wide
    Downforce:                     Medium-low
    
    ====================================
    
    GENERAL SET-UPS: TRIAL MOUNTAIN (II)
    The Trial Mountain venue is largely contained within tall
    rock cliffs, which means that there is very little run-off
    room in case a player makes a mistake and leaves the
    pavement.  This is a moderately-technical circuit, with
    impressive speeds attainable on Pit Straight and the back
    stretch (in and emerging from the tunnel).
    
    Spring Rate:                   Medium-high
    Ride Height:                   Medium
    Shock Absorbers:               Medium-high
    Stabilizers:                   Medium-low
    Brake Balance :                Medium-high
    Gear Ratio (Auto Setting):     Medium-Wide
    Downforce:                     Medium-low
    
    ====================================
    ====================================
    ====================================
    
    RALLY RACING
    Rally racing in the Gran Turismo series is ALMOST exclusively
    dirt-based, unlike games exclusively devoted to Rally racing.
    Those who have played the Rally Events in Gran Turismo 2 will
    certainly recognize almost all the Rally circuits in GT3, and
    will certainly appreciate the exquisite detail paid to the
    visuals.  However, as in the rest of GT3, the new physics
    engine makes it virtually impossible to drive the same car
    (perhaps a Peugeot 206 Rally Car) the exact same way in both
    GT2 and GT3.  Also, some of the returning circuits have much
    more pavement than before, although the majority of these
    circuits are still dirt-covered.
    
    The major change in Rally racing from GT2 to GT3 is in the
    actual racing format itself.  In Gran Turismo 2, you compete
    against a ghost version of a particular vehicle for only one
    lap around a circuit, therefore dust is not an issue.
    However, GT3's Rally format uses multiple laps per race,
    against an actual (non-ghost) opponent.  Further, GT3's
    maniacal attention to detail includes large clouds of dust
    (for dirt-based races) to greatly obscure your vision if you
    are not in the lead.  Fortunately, the spray issue in the
    wet-conditions races is only slightly annoying, and does not
    truly obscure your vision.
    
    An important notation used in Gran Turismo 3 is the II
    designation.  The name of a circuit followed by II means that
    the race is actually run in reverse of its standard
    direction.  For example, Tahiti Challenge of Rally is run
    clockwise, while Tahiti Challenge of Rally II is run
    counterclockwise.
    
    Unfortunately, GT3 does not include the two Pike's Peak
    courses from GT2's Rally mode.  However, the Suzuki Escudo
    (THE car of cars!!!!!) is still a part of the game - it can
    be purchased for 1,000,000 credits, or received as a bonus
    car by winning EVERYTHING in Rally Events (so save your money
    and work on winning it - details provided later in this
    section).  Actually using the Escudo at any venue but Test
    Course, however, is extremely difficult, as the Escudo's
    handling in Gran Turismo 3 is virtually nonexistent.
    
    ====================================
    
    RALLY RACING: FAST ADVANCEMENT
    One of the best tips concerning the Rally Events is actually
    part of a larger plan for GT3 as a whole.  Winning the Gold
    Trophy in ALL tests for a given level in the License Tests
    will give you a high-powered car which can then easily win
    virtually any race, thus amassing cars and money rather
    quickly.  However, some people (myself included) are quite
    content enough with achieving a Bronze Trophy for each of the
    License Tests.
    
    This is where Rally comes in.  Take the time to acquire a
    (standard) car and keep adding parts, entering the same
    vehicle in as many races as you can win.  During this
    process, as you win cars, sell them, and use the money for
    more parts for your dedicated car - unless you win a car
    which can give you a much greater horsepower output when
    maxed out.  In my case, I routinely use a Mitsubishi Lancer
    Evolution VII GSR(J), maxed out to 565HP (details below).
    
    Once you have all the horsepower your chosen vehicle can
    accommodate, buy dirt tires and head for Rally Events!!!  You
    will likely need to spend time seriously thinking about
    tuning your car (done in the Settings menu), but once you
    find the right settings for your vehicle, you can compete on
    virtually all the circuits in Rally mode and have a very good
    chance at winning each race.
    
    In terms of fast advancement, sweeping Rally Events results
    in 350,000Cr total and eleven rally cars, including the
    insanely-fast Suzuki Escudo.  Here are the rally cars which
    can be won (alphabetical by manufacturer), along with their
    resale value:
    
    Citroen Xsara Rally Car                    87,500 Cr
    Ford Escort Rally Car                      87,500 Cr
    Ford Focus Rally Car                       87,000 Cr
    Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VI Rally Car   75,000 Cr
    Peugeot 206 Rally Car                      87,500 Cr
    Subaru Imprezza Rally Car                  75,000 Cr
    Subaru Imprezza Rally Car Prototype        87,500 Cr
    Suzuki Escudo Pikes Peak Version           250,000 Cr
    Toyota Celica Rally car                    75,000 Cr
    Toyota Corolla Rally Car                   75,000 Cf
    
    ====================================
    
    RALLY RACING: DIRT DRIVING
    After completing a number of races on pavement, driving on
    dirt can be a radical change for newcomers to Rally racing.
    As in standard pavement racing, speed, braking, and racing
    line are all important, but - in my opinion - they all take a
    back seat to steering in Rally racing.  Dirt is much more
    difficult for the tires to accurately grip to povide the
    traction necessary to brake, accelerate, and turn cleanly.
    
    Essentially, everything comes down to anticipation, even
    moreso than dry-conditions pavement driving because of the
    element of severely-reduced traction.  Learning to control a
    sliding vehicle is key - the direction of the slide, the
    speed of the slide, the positioning of the wheels, and other
    factors all influence how you can get around a corner or how
    you can either hold or get back on the optimal racing line.
    
    Without question, Rally racing can be frustrating at first,
    especially the mostly-dirt and all-dirt circuits.  Of course,
    the Rally License Tests will give you a chance to learn how
    to control your vehicle on various Rally circuits in
    differing situations.  Even after the Rally License has been
    acquired, it may be beneficial to complete each Rally License
    Test several more times - both to reinforce the driving
    techniques, and to become more familiar with these courses.
    
    Dirt Driving Payout:
       Race   Credits
       1      5.000
       2      10.000
       3      20,000
    Winning all three races at a given circuit in the given
    direction results in winning a Rally car.
    
    The number of laps per race (varies by circuit):
       Circuit                          Race   Laps
       Tahiti Challenge of Rally (II)   1      2
                                        2      3
                                        3      5
       Tahiti Maze (II)                 1      2
                                        2      3
                                        3      5
       Smoky Mountain Rally (II)        1      3
                                        2      5
                                        3      7
       Swiss Alps (II)                  1      3
                                        2      5
                                        3      7
    
    I was able to win ALL the dirt-based Rally competitions using
    a Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VII GSR(J) with these
    parameters and parts:
       Ride Height          117mm front, 117mm rear
       Shock Absorbers      Level 9 front, Level 9 rear
       Camber Angle         1.0 front, 0.5 rear
       Stabilizers          Level 3 front, Level 3 rear
       Gear Ratio           Auto Setting: Level 22
       Downforce            0.19 front, 0.41 rear
       Active Stability     Level 14
          Management
       TCS Controller       Level 7
       Parts Acquired       Suspension/Semi-racing, Sports
                            Brakes, Muffler and Air Cleaner/
                            Racing, Port Polish, Full-engine
                            Balancing, Racing Chip, Clutch/
                            Triple Plate, Flywheel/Racing,
                            Driveshaft/Carbon, Transmission/
                            Full-racing, Limited-slip/1.5-way,
                            Turbo Kit Stage 3, Intercooler/
                            Racing, Sports Tires, Dirt Racing
                            Tires, Lightweight Stages 1-3
    
    Unfortunately, once you win a dirt-based Rally event, if you
    return to the same circuit, you will not have Active
    Stability Management or TCS Controller available to you; this
    occurs with both Rally-specific cars (such as the Subaru
    Imprezza Rally Prototype) and more 'mundane' cars.  I prefer
    to believe this was deliberate, to keep players from gaining
    'easy money' from races already won, but this could well be a
    legitimate bug in the game.
    
    ====================================
    
    RALLY RACING: WET-CONDITIONS DRIVING
    One (extremely dirty) word: hydroplaning.
    
    The biggest problem in these wet races is sliding.  While you
    obviously need to put down A LOT of power to try to win the
    races, that power constantly risks to slide you out of
    control.  Should a slide ever make you completely spin
    around, you may as well just quit the race and start over,
    because you will NEVER be able to catch up with your
    opponent.
    
    Fortunately, if you are following closely behind your
    opponent, spray from the other vehicle is not such an issue
    that your vision is truly obscured.  Granted, the spray of
    water is rather annoying, but you can still generally see
    what is ahead.
    
    If you have a powerful enough car, you can use it for the
    dirt AND wet-conditions Rally races.  However, take care in
    coming out of the slow chicanes, as using too much power can
    cause a spin.
    
    A very special thanks goes to PJ Man for pointing out an
    oversight to me:  Dirt tires are NOT required for wet-
    conditions Rally races.  Therefore, ANY car in GT3 can be
    used for the wet-conditions races.
    
    Wet-conditions Driving Payout:
       Race   Credits
       1      5,000
       2      10,000
       3      20,000
    Winning all three races at a given circuit in the given
    direction results in winning a Rally car.
    
    The number of laps per race:
       Circuit                            Race   Laps
       Super Special Route 5 (Wet) (II)   1      2
                                          2      3
                                          3      5
    
    I was able to win ALL the wet-conditions Rally competitions
    using a Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VII GSR(J) with these
    parameters and parts:
       Ride Height          117mm front, 117mm rear
       Shock Absorbers      Level 9 front, Level 9 rear
       Camber Angle         1.0 front, 0.5 rear
       Stabilizers          Level 3 front, Level 3 rear
       Gear Ratio           Auto Setting: Level 27
       Downforce            0.19 front, 0.41 rear
       Active Stability     Level 14
          Management
       TCS Controller       Level 7
       Parts Acquired       Suspension/Semi-racing, Sports
                            Brakes, Muffler and Air Cleaner/
                            Racing, Port Polish, Full-engine
                            Balancing, Racing Chip, Clutch/
                            Triple Plate, Flywheel/Racing,
                            Driveshaft/Carbon, Transmission/
                            Full-racing, Limited-slip/1.5-way,
                            Turbo Kit Stage 3, Intercooler/
                            Racing, Sports Tires, Dirt Racing
                            Tires, Lightweight Stages 1-3
    
    Another personal favorite is to use one of the F1 cars in the
    game (offered in Formula GT and each of the Endurance Races)
    for the wet-conditions races.  However, F1 cars put down A
    LOT of power and are inherently much more agile than any
    other car in the game, which makes controlling the open-wheel
    monsters much more difficult in wet conditions.
    
    The TCS/Stability issue mentioned in the Dirt Driving section
    (above) does not apply for wet-conditions racing.
    
    ====================================
    
    RALLY RACING: 'GUARANTEED WINS'
    There is a way to essentially have 'guaranteed wins' in Rally
    Events.  This concerns BUYING the Suzuki Escudo Pikes Peak
    Version, which costs 1,000,000Cr in Gran Turismo 3 (half its
    prize in GT2).
    
    Even at stock configuration, the Suzuki Escudo will have a
    far higher horsepower output than any competitors in Rally
    Events.  The problem is that in GT3, the Escudo is absolutely
    atrocious in terms of handling.  In my opinion, the Escudo is
    really only good for use at Super Speedway (by riding the
    walls to force cornering) and especially at Test Course, but
    some players may wish to buy and use the Escudo in Rally
    Events nonetheless.  Using the Suzuki Escudo in Rally Events
    will require 'riding the walls' to clear corners, although
    intense countersteering will likely be required upon corner
    exit, especially in the wet-based events (where throttle
    management on corner exit will also be key to success).
    
    ====================================
    
    RALLY RACING: CIRCUIT TIPS AND WARNINGS
    Tahiti Challenge of Rally: Be careful when transitioning
    between pavement and dirt.  About halfway around the circuit,
    the set of three jumps can easily cause you to find yourself
    sideways and smashing against a barrier, so it may be a good
    idea to position yourself NEAR a barrier so that if you do
    start to go sideways, the barrier will 'tap' you back in the
    right direction.
    
    Tahiti Maze: Perhaps the best thing to do here is simply ride
    the rails, especially if you are trying to catch up to the
    leader.  Be careful when transitioning between pavement and
    dirt.
    
    Smokey Mountain Rally: In contrast to Gran Turismo 2, the
    'front stretch' is now entirely pavement; however, it would
    be wise to slow just before cresting the final paved jump.
    There are a number of jumps all around the circuit which are
    quite likely to send you first airborne, then into a barrier
    or mountainside.
    
    Swiss Alps: This long, winding circuit has numerous hairpins
    which can either help you to catch up if you are behind, or
    can quickly put you behind if you are in the lead.  Beware
    the transition to and from the bridge.
    
    Tahiti Challenge of Rally II: Be careful when transitioning
    between pavement and dirt.  About halfway around the circuit,
    the set of three jumps can easily cause you to find yourself
    sideways and smashing against a barrier, so it may be a good
    idea to position yourself NEAR a barrier so that if you do
    start to go sideways, the barrier will 'tap' you back in the
    right direction.
    
    Tahiti Maze II: Perhaps the best thing to do here is simply
    ride the rails, especially if you are trying to catch up to
    the leader.  Be careful when transitioning between pavement
    and dirt.
    
    Smokey Mountain Rally II: In contrast to Gran Turismo 2, the
    'front stretch' is now entirely pavement.  Especially in this
    (clockwise) direction, there are a number of jumps all around
    the circuit which are quite likely to send you first
    airborne, then into a barrier or mountainside.  Take care to
    slow down just before cresting the hill in the first turn;
    failure to do so will certainly launch you airborne and into
    a barrier, allowing your opponent to slip past you and gain a
    hefty lead before you can regroup.
    
    Swiss Alps II: This long, winding circuit has numerous
    hairpins which can either help you to catch up if you are
    behind, or can quickly put you behind if you are in the lead.
    The evening sun casts dark shadows over virtually ALL of the
    circuit, so intimate knowledge of the course is required to
    even have a chance of winning here.  Beware the transition to
    and from the bridge; on approach, the dark shadows greatly
    mask the narrowness of the bridge opening, so a flawless
    racing line here is absolutely essential, and it may also be
    beneficial to quickly switch to Front Bumper View if
    necessary.
    
    Super Special Route 5 (Wet): Of course, the wet conditions
    will have you sliding around the circuit at almost all times,
    so the real trick is to control your sliding and make the
    vehicle slide in a manner conducive to winning.  Be careful
    coming out of Turn 7 and heading into Turn 8 (the first
    timing point), as the vehicle will naturally want to slide
    out into the open area to the left on exiting Turn 7, and a
    barrier suddenly narrows the entry into Turn 8.  To the
    extent possible, ride the rails.
    
    Super Special Route 5 (Wet) II: Of course, the wet conditions
    will have you sliding around the circuit at almost all times,
    so the real trick is to control your sliding and make the
    vehicle slide in a manner conducive to winning.  To the
    extent possible, ride the rails.  Do not let yourself get
    distracted by the beautiful moon, but please inform me ASAP
    if you happen to glimpse the Moon Kingdom!!!  As you come out
    of the tunnel (the final turn), take care not to slide off
    into Pit Lane or ram the Pit Lane barrier on exit.
    
    ====================================
    ====================================
    ====================================
    
    ENDURANCE RACES
    For all but a handful of Endurance Races, ANY car in Gran
    Turismo 3 is a legal entry.  For these races, I much prefer
    to use an F1 car.  I am certainly not a physicist, but I
    assume that the lack of vertical height makes an F1 car's
    center of gravity much lower, thus allowing it to both
    respond better to steering and corner at higher speeds
    (averaging about 30MPH/50KPH faster, and up to 70MPH/110KPH
    faster at some venues).  For my personal driving style, I
    also find it much easier to both induce and recover from a
    slide when taking tight corners with an F1 car.  Ultimately,
    this means - in my opinion - that the F1 cars are a nearly-
    sure bet for winning a race.  For the races for which an F1
    car IS a legal entry, the superior cornering and powerful
    acceleration will usually result in impressive leads over the
    rest of the field, allowing a stop to change tires without a
    loss of position.  Yet the response to steering could lead to
    turning just a little too much just a little too soon, thus
    rubbing a wheel against a barrier, and potentially bringing
    the car to a standstill if this occurs at the right (or,
    depending on point of view, wrong) angle.
    
    ====================================
    
    ENDURANCE RACES: GRAND VALLEY 300KM
    Unfortunately, much of the area's beautiful scenery is
    obscured by the elevation of the circuit itself and by the
    tunnels.  Like most of the Endurance Races, Grand Valley
    300km does not have restrictions on cars or tuning.  An F1
    car is a great pick for this race, although as the tire
    indicators turn orange and red, expect an F1 car's inherent
    slide-ability to make handling extremely tricky through
    hairpins and especially when navigating the nasty chicane
    after the final (semi-open) tunnel.  Plan on about 2 hours,
    15 minutes to complete this sixty-lap race.
    
    An IA license is required for this race.
    
    ====================================
    
    ENDURANCE RACES: SEATTLE 100 MILES
    The scenery has changed a little since GT2 (primarily the
    stadiums at the end of the circuit), but this is still a
    wonderful and challenging racing venue.  At forty laps, this
    race can be completed in approximately one hour.  There are
    plenty of good passing opportunities here, especially on the
    front stretch, the long four-tiered uphill climb, and the
    bridge over the railroad tracks approaching the stadium area.
    
    There are no car restrictions here, so an F1 car's inherent
    agility provides a good advantage here, especially in
    navigating the final segment of the circuit (the bus stop
    chicane between the two stadium sites and the tight left-
    right chicane at Pit Entry); however, an F1 car is so light
    that safely navigating the steep uphill climb can be
    difficult, especially when trying to slow and corner at the
    top of the climb.
    
    An IA license is required for this race.
    
    ====================================
    
    ENDURANCE RACES: LAGUNA SECA 200 MILES
    This is the circuit with the world-famous Corkscrew.  The
    Corkscrew tends to cause problems for all sorts of cars, but
    the aerodynamic problems seem to be especially great for F1
    cars.  This 90-lap race takes place in the evening, so there
    is an orange glow cast over the circuit.  The glow produces
    severe shadows in some areas, which may make it difficult to
    quickly spot dark-colored cars; for this reason, an F1 car
    will automatically have its single red taillight illuminated.
    Plan on a little over two hours to complete this race.
    
    An IA license is required for this race.
    
    ====================================
    
    ENDURANCE RACES: PASSAGE TO COLOSSEO 2 HOURS
    This event is patterned after TRUE endurance races:  The
    winner is the car which completes the most laps in the
    allotted time.  With an F1 car, I have always completed at
    least 75 laps in two hours; I could probably complete 100+
    laps, but I tend to play around with the other cars and try
    to knock the cones ALL the way around the circuit :-)
    
    The trickiest part of the Rome circuit is entering Pit Lane;
    the Pit Lane Entry is immediately to the right AFTER
    navigating the final tight right-hand corner.  Because of the
    barrier, Pit Lane is unsighted approaching the final corner.
    After the initial laps, always be mindful of slow cars in
    this corner; if you cut the corner too sharply, you may
    accidentally ram a car entering Pit Lane.
    
    An IA license is required for this race.
    
    ====================================
    
    ENDURANCE RACES: TRIAL MOUNTAIN 2 HOURS
    Like the Passage to Colosseo race, the winner here is the car
    which completes the most laps in the allotted time.  Only
    Normal (non-racing) cars are permitted for this race.
    
    Trial Mountain is a shadowy circuit due to the tall mountain
    cliffs, the long tunnel on the back stretch, and the many
    trees.  Therefore, it may not be wise to use a dark-colored
    car here if you prefer to drive in Chase View; a lighter-
    colored car will make cornering easier, as you will not have
    as much difficulty in spotting the front end of your own
    vehicle.  Also due to the many shadows, keep alert if there
    are dark-colored CPU-controlled cars in the race.
    
    This is also a somewhat technical circuit, with some corners
    between the mountain cliffs requiring a maximum speed of
    65MPH/105KPH, and even this may be excessive.  One great
    place to pass is the wide left-hand corner after exiting the
    long tunnel; instead of braking, slide along the guardrail on
    the outside of the corner - friction will certainly slow you
    down, but not as much as other cars braking normally to your
    left.
    
    Two cars I can personally recommend for this race are the
    Chevrolet Corvette Z06 with Medium-slick Tires and the Jaguar
    XJ220 Road Car with Super-slick Tires.  In two races here
    with the Z06, I have won by approximately fifty seconds due
    only to the fewer required pit stops (using Medium-slick
    Tires).  The XJ220 Road Car, however, has an impressive stock
    horsepower of 516HP; cornering at high speeds is difficult
    (especially with Super-slick Tires), but the high horsepower
    output results in excellent speeds along the straightaways,
    enough to quickly gain the lead and keep extending that lead
    by at least five seconds per lap.  While the XJ220 Road Car
    is far faster than any other in the race, the Z06 has far
    better handling when cornering with its stock configuration.
    
    An IA license and a Normal car are required for this race.
    
    ====================================
    
    ENDURANCE RACES: SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11
    One of the original circuits of the Gran Turismo series,
    SSR11 was missing from GT2, and has returned with some
    modifications in GT3.  This is a nighttime race, which is a
    very different experience from racing in the daylight.  An F1
    car is a good choice here to better navigate the tight
    corners and chicanes (especially in the first half of the
    circuit); because of the generally poor visibility at night,
    an F1 car will have its single red taillight on.  Plan on a
    little over two hours to complete this race.
    
    An IA license is required for this race.
    
    ====================================
    
    ENDURANCE RACES: ROADSTER APRICOT HILL
    This is one of the Endurance Races with restrictions on
    appropriate cars.  Further, only factory-stock, NON-TUNED
    cars can be used; the only permitted change to the cars can
    be the tires.
    
    Concerning the tires, I suggest buying two sets of tires:
    Soft or Super-soft Tires for qualifying, and Medium-slick
    Tires for the actual race.  While not truly necessary,
    qualifying with Soft or Super-soft Tires will give you a good
    chance to start the race at the front of the pack, as these
    tires will provide superior grip with the pavement during the
    few laps necessary for qualifying.
    
    The Mazda MX-5 Miata LS will be your strongest competition
    here in the initial laps, and will play psychological warfare
    with you as it leaps out to a big lead, unless you have the
    flawless racing skills to keep pace.  However, the Miata LS
    stops for tires every three laps, so if you are falling
    behind initially, just wait for the Miata LS to go to Pit
    Lane once or twice and you should have the lead.  The other
    cars in the race are much slower, and you will likely lap the
    backmarkers at least once.
    
    As for race strategy, many of the corners at Apricot Hill are
    rather tight, so use of the rumble strips - especially at the
    apex and exit of each corner - is key.  However, be careful
    not to drop a wheel off the rumble strips and into the sand
    lining the inside of most corners (especially in the initial
    S-turns), as that will both slow you down and accelerate tire
    wear.
    
    Plan on about ninety minutes to complete this race.
    
    An IA license is required for this race.  Also, only three
    cars are permitted for this race: Mazda MX-5 Miata LS, Mazda
    MX-5 Miata 1.8 RS(J), and Mazda MX-5 Miata (J).
    
    ====================================
    
    ENDURANCE RACES: TOKYO R246
    This 100-lap race in Tokyo combines fast speeds with tricky
    technical corners.  In a way, this circuit recalls Ridge
    Racer V, especially on the front stretch approaching Turn 1.
    Care must be taken entering Pit Lane, which narrows
    significantly upon entry.  Plan on a little over two hours to
    complete this race.  An F1 car is a safe bet for an easy win
    at this venue.
    
    An IA license is required for this race.
    
    ====================================
    
    ENDURANCE RACES: MISTRAL (COTE D'AZUR) 78 LAPS
    This race takes place at the Monaco circuit used in real-
    world F1 races.  Unfortunately, this version of the Cote
    d'Azur circuit places a blindingly-bright sun directly at the
    top of Beau Rivage, the long uphill climb at the beginning of
    the circuit >:-(   Extreme care must be taken when entering
    Pit Lane, which narrows significantly upon entry.
    
    Since this circuit is used (exclusively) by real-world F1
    cars, an F1 car is the best possible choice here.  However,
    tuning any car is key here on this tight, technical circuit.
    One area which warrants tuning attention is the gearbox;
    since there is really only one 'long' area in which to
    accelerate (The Tunnel), change the gearbox toward 'Sport' to
    gain faster acceleration out of the many corners (at the
    sacrifice of top-end speed, which is definitely NOT a
    priority at Cote d'Azur).  Second, raise the Front and Rear
    Downforce close to maximum; while this also sheds top-end
    speed, cornering will be rendered easier.  Adjusting Ride
    Height to maximum will increase aerodynamic friction
    underneath the car, slowing the car slightly to also assist
    in cornering.  Finally, use high brake settings to hold
    maximum speed heading into the tight corners, a good strategy
    for passing on braking (where the circuit is wide enough to
    allow such a maneuver).
    
    Passing at Cote d'Azur is extremely difficult because the
    circuit is so tight (although GT3 presents a generally wider
    circuit than the actual streets of Monaco).  Therefore, it is
    to your advantage to first qualify on Pole if at all
    possible; this will keep you ahead of the logjam at the first
    corner (Sainte-Devote) and help you to gain a larger lead as
    the rest of the competitors try to squeeze through the tight
    right-hand corner.  If you are not using an F1 car (which can
    only use Medium Tires in GT3), make sure to use Soft or
    Super-soft Tires to qualify; the extra grip will help in the
    tight corners and in acceleration.  Plan on about two hours
    to complete this race.
    
    An IA license is required for this race.
    
    ====================================
    
    ENDURANCE RACES: SUPER SPEEDWAY 150 MILES
    This race has no restrictions concerning tuning or acceptable
    cars, which means that fast, high-powered cars can be used
    here for an extremely easy win in under 60 minutes.  As with
    many of the other Endurance Races, the F1 cars are a good bet
    here.  Also, a fully-maxxed Suzuki Escudo (over 1800HP) can
    be used here, although it will have so much power that it
    will be scraping the walls in the corners.  Another good
    possibility is the Mazda 787B; again, it will have so much
    power that it will be scraping the walls in the corners, but
    if Super-slick Tires are used, the tires will last
    approximately 45 laps before the tire indicators turn red,
    meaning that only two trips to Pit Lane are needed in the
    race.
    
    Interestingly, Pit Lane both starts and ends on the back
    stretch of Super Speedway.  This is much better than the
    track's appearance in Gran Turismo 2, in which Pit Lane was
    extremely short and difficult to use as both Pit Entry and
    Pit Exit were actually on the front stretch.
    
    There has been some discussion on the Internet concerning a
    rubber band trick which can be used at Super Speedway.  While
    I have not tried it and have not really read the details of
    the trick, I do know that it requires using a rubber band to
    position the left (steering) analog stick and using a clamp
    or other item to keep the accelerator button held down.  Once
    this is done, simply walk away and return in about an hour.
    The Suzuki Escudo is supposedly the best car to use for this
    rubber band trick.
    
    An IA license is required for this race.
    
    ====================================
    ====================================
    ====================================
    
    F1 CARS
    There are six F1 cars in Gran Turismo 3.  Most can only be
    acquired by winning specific Endurance races.  Even then,
    they are assigned at random, so those trying to win a
    specific F1 vehicle will likely face the frustration of
    running the same Endurance race multiple times.  (Of these,
    the Super Speedway race is the fastest to win if you have a
    fast car already.  An excellent vehicle for this race is the
    Suzuki Escudo, maxed out to over 1800HP with super-slick
    tires; simply ride the walls for about 50 minutes and change
    tires once or twice to win the race.)  Fortunately, once you
    win an F1 car, it can be used in almost all the Endurance
    races (and almost all other events in the game), instantly
    giving you a huge advantage over the rest of the competitors
    (except in Formula GT).
    
    Upon winning ALL the Endurance races, you will be rewarded
    with another F1 car.  Therefore, it is possible to collect
    all six F1 cars available in Gran Turismo 3.
    
    So, what are the F1 cars and how can you get them?
       Car      Acquisition*                History**
       F094/H   Trial Mountain 2 Hours,     10-cylendar driven
                Tokyo R246; win ALL         by Damon Hill
                Endurance races
       F090/S   Grand Valley 300km, Super   1990 McLaren with
                Speedway                    Honda Power
       F686/M   Laguna Seca 200 Miles;      Nigel Mansell's 1986
                Win ALL Professional        Williams
                League races
       F686/S   Mistral/Cote d'Azur         **
       F687/S   Seattle 100 Miles,          Ayrton Senna's 1987
                Special Stage Route 11      Lotus
       F688/S   Passage to Colosseo,        1988 McLaren
                Roadster Apricot Hill
    *   Thus information is partly derived from personal progress
        in Gran Turismo 3, and partly from the excellent Gran
        Turismo 3 Event Guide [J-spec] compiled by Xombe
        (available on GameFAQs).
    **  This information is from the August 2001 issue of PSM
        (page 83).  However, there appears to be a misprint,
        which potentially affects the car history information and
        the entry for the F686/S.
    
    ====================================
    
    FORMULA GT
    Of all the race series in Gran Turismo 3, Formula GT is
    without question the most difficult set of races in
    Simulation Mode.  In all other races and series, even when
    restrictions on acceptable cars exist, it is still possible
    to find at least one car which can outclass the competition
    to allow for relatively easy wins.
    
    However, with the Formula GT competition composed entirely of
    F1 cars - by far the best cars in Gran Turismo 3 - Formula GT
    is ROUGH at best.  With all six cars so closely matched, a
    player's driving skill must be at an EXTREMELY high level in
    order to even have a chance at winning each race - this means
    that proper braking zones, judicious acceleration, flawless
    racing lines, expert cornering, thoughtful pit strategy, and
    rapid reflexes are absolutely crucial to success in Formula
    GT.  Also, the series becomes more and more difficult with
    each race; this is largely due to the very noticeable
    decrease in horsepower (and top-end speed), since there are
    NO opportunities to change the oil during the series.
    
    This section presents how I was able to win the Formula GT
    series using the F686/M (Nigel Mansell's Williams car from
    the 1986 F1 season).  What is presented here may or may not
    work for others, depending on chosen car, driving style,
    level of concentration, positioning of the planets, etc.
    Also, I play with a standard controller; these suggested car
    set-ups may need to be modified for those using racing
    wheels.
    
    ====================================
    
    FORMULA GT: FINDING CAR SET-UPS
    Like other series races in Gran Turismo 3, each race can be
    entered as part of a series or individually.  To find car
    set-ups, it is best to enter each race event individually,
    work on car set-ups, save appropriate set-ups for each
    circuit, and move on to the next individual race venue.
    
    Once any desired changes have been made to car set-up, they
    can be tested by going into Qualifying mode.  This is great,
    because one's personal best lap time will be displayed along
    with the current Pole Position time, providing incentive to
    continue trying to attain the fastest possible lap times.  If
    more changes need to be made, simply exiting Qualifying and
    returning to Settings will permit making more changes to the
    car set-up.
    
    Gear ratios can be adjusted to fit one's personal driving
    style, and this can be one of the best things to change in
    terms of car set-up in order to maximize car performance at a
    given venue.  For most circuits, a fairly low gear ratio is
    best, providing excellent initial acceleration for the
    standing starts, and excellent acceleration exiting tight
    corners.  However, for Test Course and Super Speedway, a
    rather high gear ratio (combined with the lowest possible
    settings for both Ride Height and Downforce) is best to
    provide a faster top-end speed; in this case, riding the
    walls or purposely bouncing off the walls to force cornering
    may be necessary at Super Speedway, especially if the tires
    are very worn (orange tire indicators) or practically non-
    existent (red tire indicators).
    
    Downforce is also extremely important in car set-ups.
    Raising downforce will assist with cornering, but will also
    lower top-end speed.  Lowering downforce will increase top-
    end speed, but cornering will be more difficult.  For F1
    cars, downforce can be adjusted for both the front and rear
    of the car.  Ride height also works in the same manner as
    downforce, although its effects are generally minimal in
    terms of cornering and top-end speed.
    
    Later in this section, a suggested car set-up is presented
    for each race venue.  The presented set-ups may or may not
    work for everyone, depending on chosen car, driving style,
    level of concentration, positioning of the planets, etc.
    
    For those concerned about keeping a car's mileage as low as
    possible, try this tip for finding car set-ups.  Set-up files
    are saved independent of the game progress file.  Therefore,
    use the chosen car to work on car set-up for a specific
    course, save the car set-ups when satisfied with it, then go
    back to the game's main menu (where the selection between
    Arcade Mode and Simulation Mode is made) and reload game
    progress.  In this manner, the car 'will not have been used,'
    but a saved car set-up will still be available :-)
    
    ====================================
    
    FORMULA GT: QUALIFYING
    In the original Gran Turismo, players had a tremendous
    incentive to qualify for races, as players could earn extra
    money (which was especially important when first beginning
    the game) by qualifying on Pole Position (P1).  This was
    discontinued in Gran Turismo 2, and still had not been
    reinstated for Gran Turismo 3.  For this reason, it generally
    is not advantageous to qualify in Gran Turismo 3, especially
    if using a car which outclasses the competition in a race.
    
    However, in Formula GT, qualifying is important, especially
    in the latter races in the series.  If at all possible, it is
    important to qualify P1 (Pole Position), or at least on the
    front row, to get ahead of the pack as quickly as possible,
    as there is usually a traffic jam at the first corner of each
    venue (this is especially true at Cote d'Azur/Monaco).
    
    Qualifying begins from Pit Lane, with players forced to make
    an Out Lap (a.k.a. Warm-up Lap) before qualifying actually
    begins.  At most race venues, players will exit Pit Lane in
    front of the competition as they prepare to qualify; at other
    venues, it is best to leave Pit Lane, pull aside, and wait
    until the other five cars have safely passed and created some
    distance, to ensure that players will have as little traffic
    as possible to try to place as high on the starting grid as
    possible.
    
    There is no time limit nor lap limit for qualifying in Gran
    Turismo 3.  However, the longer a player attempts to improve
    lap times, the better and better and better the CPU-
    controlled cars perform in qualifying.  Therefore, once a
    player qualifies on Pole Position, it is best to immediately
    quit qualifying to ensure that other cars cannot best that
    lap time; continuing to run laps to gain an even lower lap
    time could very well result in one or more of the CPU-
    controlled cars besting the player's Pole Position time.
    
    ====================================
    
    FORMULA GT: CIRCUIT TIPS
    Here are some tips for driving each circuit in Formula GT:
    
    Midfield Raceway:   Take extreme care with the accelerator on
                        exiting the sharp left-hand J-turn
                        entering the lower tunnel.  Too much
                        acceleration here will produce wheelspin,
                        which in turn will unduly  accelerate
                        tire wear.
    Seattle:            The long three-tiered climb can be fun
                        for sending cars airborne, but it is very
                        dangerous due to the sharp perpendicular
                        right-hand turn at the top.  As tire
                        wear increases, this corner in particular
                        becomes more and more dangerous,
                        requiring earlier and earlier braking.
    Grand Valley:       Grand Valley is the longest race venue in
                        Grand Turismo 3.  As such, keep a close
                        eye on the tire indicators; if a tire
                        shows red early in a lap, it will be a
                        long and heart-stopping drive back to Pit
                        Lane to change the tires.  Also, be very
                        gentle on the throttle exiting the final
                        chicane (just after the final tunnel), or
                        else wheelspin will cause undue
                        acceleration of tire wear.
    Super Speedway:     Use the walls to force the car to turn;
                        however, countersteering will likely be
                        necessary in order to keep the car from
                        spinning, especially as tire wear
                        accelerates.
    Rome:               This is a somewhat long venue as well, so
                        if a tire shows red early in a lap,
                        expect a lot of trouble getting back to
                        Pit Lane to change the tires.  On the
                        final corner, be constantly on the
                        lookout for VERY slow cars, as they are
                        making the hard right-hand J-turn into
                        Pit Lane (Pit Entry is very poorly
                        placed at this venue).
    Test Course:        Once the lights turn green, stand on the
                        accelerator for twenty-five continuous,
                        non-stop laps without ever stopping to
                        change tires.  The Test Course venue is
                        sufficiently wide and the corners
                        sufficiently gentle that there is NO
                        reason to bump other cars or the inside
                        or outside barriers.
    Laguna Seca:        The trick to a fast lap time is to
                        safely get through the Corkscrew AND the
                        final corner (extremely tight left-hand
                        right-angle corner with steep rumble
                        strips on the inside and a wide patch of
                        kitty litter on the outside).  It is
                        perhaps best to slow greatly for both
                        areas, and accelerate quickly when the
                        sectors have been safely cleared.
    Apricot Hill:       The hairpin behind the Paddock is a VERY
                        slow corner; any speed above 60MPH is
                        certain to cause the car to slide and/or
                        spin.  The final chicane MUST NOT BE
                        SHORTCUTTED, as the sand on the inside of
                        each of its tight corners will very
                        quickly wear down the tires, thus making
                        it extremely difficult (if not absolutely
                        impossible) to stay ahead of the
                        competition.
    Tokyo R246:         The front portion of the circuit is quite
                        wide, but the back portion is rather
                        narrow.  It is very easy to bump a wheel
                        on a barrier or against another car while
                        on the back portion of the circuit.
                        Precision driving as well as patience are
                        very important on the back portion of the
                        Tokyo R246 venue.
    Cote d'Azur/Monaco: Gran Turismo 3 presents a version of the
                        real-world Monaco circuit (used annually
                        for the F1 Grand Prix of Monte Carlo)
                        which is generally a little wider than
                        in reality and in most other racing
                        games.  However, having visited Monaco, I
                        can state that the 'feel' of the city has
                        been captured quite well.
                           While GT3's version of this circuit is
                        a bit 'wide,' the circuit is still VERY
                        narrow.  There is really no place to
                        attain high speeds, and passing is
                        extremely difficult even in the best
                        circumstances.  Even expert drivers will
                        certainly bump barriers and other cars
                        rather consistently - which will increase
                        tire wear with each bump.
                           High downforce and ride height
                        settings combined with shot gear ratios
                        and A LOT of patience are required at
                        Cote d'Azur/Monaco.  If at all possible,
                        wait to pass competitors as they go to
                        Pit Lane.
    
    ====================================
    
    FORMULA GT: GENERAL TIPS
    If this has not yet been done, players should save the
    default/stock set-up of the chosen vehicle before changing
    car set-ups.  This is a good practice for ALL cars in GT3, as
    some races require only non-tuned vehicles.  This is also a
    good idea in case - while fiddling with car set-ups - a
    player really adversely changes the car's set-up, and
    reverting back to the default set-up allows the player to
    start over.
    
    For those concerned about keeping a car's mileage as low as
    possible, try this tip for finding car set-ups.  Set-up files
    are saved independently of the game progress file, which can
    be used to a player's advantage.  Therefore, use the chosen
    car to work on car set-up for a specific course, save the car
    set-ups when satisfied with it, then go back to the game's
    main menu (where the selection between Arcade Mode and
    Simulation Mode is made) and reload game progress.  In this
    manner, the car 'will not have been used' as far as the CPU
    is concerned, but a saved car set-up will still be available
    for use later :-)
    
    Unfortunately, F1 cars can only use Medium Tires (and are the
    only cars in Gran Turismo 3 which are limited to just Medium
    Tires).  This means that the tires will usually wear out
    after six or seven laps.  Therefore, pit strategy is very
    important for each race.  It is necessary to try to make the
    tires last as long as possible between pit stops, thus
    resulting in fewer pit stops.  In general, a pit stop will
    cost 20-25 seconds (shorter at Test Course, since Pit Lane is
    essentially non-existent; longer at Super Speedway, since Pit
    Lane - including Pit Entry and Pit Exit - is essentially a
    full lap long), so if a player can make one or two fewer pit
    stops than the CPU-controlled cars, that will certainly give
    the player a significant advantage time/distance.  It is
    possible to use non-F1 cars in Formula GT, with the advantage
    that ANY tire compound can be used, including the longest-
    durability/lowest-grip Super-slick Tires; however, there are
    NO other cars in Gran Turismo 3 which are inherently as fast
    AND agile as the F1 cars, so success through the Formula GT
    series with non-F1 cars is very slim (some individual races,
    such as the Test Course race, can easily be won with non-F1
    cars, such as the 1,000,000Cr Suzuki Escudo Pikes Peak
    Version).
    
    On the Out Lap (Warm-up Lap) in qualifying, it helps to
    purposely drive off the pavement and/or slide the tires a
    bit, especially on the shorter circuits such as Super
    Speedway.  This will raise the tire temperature faster, so
    that the tire indicators should show all four tires as green
    by the time qualifying begins; this will provide maximum tire
    grip.  Since most players should only need one or two
    qualifying laps anyhow to attain Pole Position if they have
    followed the strategy of pre-determining car set-ups before
    entering the Formula GT series, tire durability is not really
    an issue in qualifying, so it is best to make use of this
    fact to attain the best possible pavement grip for
    qualifying.  Note that the off/slide tactic is not needed at
    Test Course, where tires are not an issue.
    
    For each race, I have specified the laps on which I made my
    stops to change tires.  However, this often means that the
    last 1-2 laps before stopping will be very harrowing, as the
    tires will be EXTREMELY worn.  This pit strategy is largely
    based upon trying to either stop on the same laps as the
    toughest competitors, or one lap LATER than the fastest
    competition.  Those with extensive experience driving with
    Super-slick Tires will likely have less difficulty with these
    final laps before stops, as they will already be quite
    familiar with driving with severely-reduced pavement grip;
    those without extensive experience driving with Super-slick
    Tires may wish to delay participating in Formula GT until
    they feel comfortable driving at high speeds with the lowest-
    grip tire compound.
    
    Just prior to entering the Formula GT series, it is important
    to change the oil and wash the car.  Changing the oil will
    provide a temporary boost in horsepower (thus delaying the
    time at which horsepower reduction due to dirty oil begins),
    while washing the car should help slightly with the
    aerodynamic flow around the vehicle (thus assisting with
    acceleration and top-end speed).
    
    There is a formula which dictates when it is possible to
    cancel out of Formula GT and still win the bonus money and
    one of the bonus cars.  If the player's lead is AT LEAST (10
    x the remaining number of races) + 1, then the player can
    safely cancel out of the remaining races and still win the
    series.  Should a player and a competitor both end the series
    tied for the points lead, the player WILL NOT receive the
    bonus money and one of the bonus cars; therefore, the 'extra'
    one point is a crucial advantage, one which players must take
    strides to achieve.  This also means, however, that if only
    the final single point is required to guarantee winning the
    series, then a player need only participate in and COMPLETE
    one of the remaining races, as finishing in last place in
    Gran Turismo 3 still results in attaining a single point
    (this is not the case in some other racing games, such as
    Newman-Haas Racing).
    
    ====================================
    
    FORMULA GT: SUGGESTED CAR SET-UPS
    These are the car set-ups which worked for me in Formula GT
    using the F686/M.  Note that only the default/stock parts
    were used.  In most cases, I was able to qualify on Pole
    Position (P1).
    
    Race 1: Midfield
       Spring Rate
          Front:                      14.4 kgl/mm
          Rear:                       14.3 kgl/mm
       Ride Height
          Front:                      47 mm
          Rear:                       47 mm
       Shock Absorbers
          Front:                      N/A
          Rear:                       N/A
       Shock Bound
          Front:                      5
          Rear:                       5
       Shock Rebound
          Front:                      5
          Rear:                       5
       Camber Angle
          Front:                      2.0
          Rear:                       1.0
       Toe Angle
          Front:                      0.0
          Rear:                       -3.0
       Stabilizers
          Front:                      N/A
          Rear:                       N/A
       Brake Balance
          Front:                      Level 21
          Rear:                       Level 21
       Limited-slip Initial Torque
          Front:                      0
          Rear:                       15
       Limited-slip Acceleration
          Front:                      0
          Rear:                       40
       Limited-slip Deceleration
          Front:                      0
          Rear:                       30
       Gear Ratio (Auto Setting):     Level 38
       Downforce
          Front:                      0.56
          Rear:                       1.07
       AYC Controller:                N/A
       Active Stability Management:   Level 10
       TCS Controller:                Level 5
       VCD Controller:                N/A
    
    Race 2: Seattle
       Spring Rate
          Front:                      12.4 kgl/mm
          Rear:                       12.4 kgl/mm
       Ride Height
          Front:                      47 mm
          Rear:                       47 mm
       Shock Absorbers
          Front:                      N/A
          Rear:                       N/A
       Shock Bound
          Front:                      5
          Rear:                       5
       Shock Rebound
          Front:                      5
          Rear:                       5
       Camber Angle
          Front:                      2.0
          Rear:                       1.0
       Toe Angle
          Front:                      0.0
          Rear:                       -3.0
       Stabilizers
          Front:                      N/A
          Rear:                       N/A
       Brake Balance
          Front:                      Level 21
          Rear:                       Level 21
       Limited-slip Initial Torque
          Front:                      0
          Rear:                       15
       Limited-slip Acceleration
          Front:                      0
          Rear:                       40
       Limited-slip Deceleration
          Front:                      0
          Rear:                       30
       Gear Ratio (Auto Setting):     Level 33
       Downforce
          Front:                      0.78
          Rear:                       1.34
       AYC Controller:                N/A
       Active Stability Management:   Level 10
       TCS Controller:                Level 5
       VCD Controller:                N/A
    
    Race 3: Grand Valley
       Spring Rate
          Front:                      13.5 kgl/mm
          Rear:                       13.4 kgl/mm
       Ride Height
          Front:                      46 mm
          Rear:                       46 mm
       Shock Absorbers
          Front:                      N/A
          Rear:                       N/A
       Shock Bound
          Front:                      5
          Rear:                       5
       Shock Rebound
          Front:                      5
          Rear:                       5
       Camber Angle
          Front:                      2.0
          Rear:                       1.0
       Toe Angle
          Front:                      0.0
          Rear:                       -3.0
       Stabilizers
          Front:                      N/A
          Rear:                       N/A
       Brake Balance
          Front:                      Level 21
          Rear:                       Level 21
       Limited-slip Initial Torque
          Front:                      0
          Rear:                       15
       Limited-slip Acceleration
          Front:                      0
          Rear:                       40
       Limited-slip Deceleration
          Front:                      0
          Rear:                       30
       Gear Ratio (Auto Setting):     Level 43
       Downforce
          Front:                      0.51
          Rear:                       0.95
       AYC Controller:                N/A
       Active Stability Management:   Level 10
       TCS Controller:                Level 5
       VCD Controller:                N/A
    
    Race 4: Super Speedway
       Spring Rate
          Front:                      13.5 kgl/mm
          Rear:                       13.4 kgl/mm
       Ride Height
          Front:                      45 mm
          Rear:                       45 mm
       Shock Absorbers
          Front:                      N/A
          Rear:                       N/A
       Shock Bound
          Front:                      5
          Rear:                       5
       Shock Rebound
          Front:                      5
          Rear:                       5
       Camber Angle
          Front:                      2.0
          Rear:                       1.0
       Toe Angle
          Front:                      0.0
          Rear:                       -3.0
       Stabilizers
          Front:                      N/A
          Rear:                       N/A
       Brake Balance
          Front:                      Level 21
          Rear:                       Level 21
       Limited-slip Initial Torque
          Front:                      0
          Rear:                       15
       Limited-slip Acceleration
          Front:                      0
          Rear:                       48
       Limited-slip Deceleration
          Front:                      0
          Rear:                       30
       Gear Ratio (Auto Setting):     Level 40
       Downforce
          Front:                      0.45
          Rear:                       0.75
       AYC Controller:                N/A
       Active Stability Management:   Level 7
       TCS Controller:                Level 2
       VCD Controller:                N/A
    
    Race 5: Rome
       Spring Rate
          Front:                      12.4 kgl/mm
          Rear:                       12.4 kgl/mm
       Ride Height
          Front:                      47 mm
          Rear:                       47 mm
       Shock Absorbers
          Front:                      N/A
          Rear:                       N/A
       Shock Bound
          Front:                      5
          Rear:                       5
       Shock Rebound
          Front:                      5
          Rear:                       5
       Camber Angle
          Front:                      2.0
          Rear:                       1.0
       Toe Angle
          Front:                      0.0
          Rear:                       -3.0
       Stabilizers
          Front:                      N/A
          Rear:                       N/A
       Brake Balance
          Front:                      Level 21
          Rear:                       Level 21
       Limited-slip Initial Torque
          Front:                      0
          Rear:                       15
       Limited-slip Acceleration
          Front:                      0
          Rear:                       40
       Limited-slip Deceleration
          Front:                      0
          Rear:                       30
       Gear Ratio (Auto Setting):     Level 38
       Downforce
          Front:                      0.51
          Rear:                       0.93
       AYC Controller:                N/A
       Active Stability Management:   Level 10
       TCS Controller:                Level 5
       VCD Controller:                N/A
    
    Race 6: Test Course
       Spring Rate
          Front:                      18.2 kgl/mm
          Rear:                       18.2 kgl/mm
       Ride Height
          Front:                      45 mm
          Rear:                       45 mm
       Shock Absorbers
          Front:                      N/A
          Rear:                       N/A
       Shock Bound
          Front:                      5
          Rear:                       5
       Shock Rebound
          Front:                      5
          Rear:                       5
       Camber Angle
          Front:                      2.0
          Rear:                       1.0
       Toe Angle
          Front:                      0.0
          Rear:                       -3.0
       Stabilizers
          Front:                      N/A
          Rear:                       N/A
       Brake Balance
          Front:                      Level 21
          Rear:                       Level 21
       Limited-slip Initial Torque
          Front:                      0
          Rear:                       55
       Limited-slip Acceleration
          Front:                      0
          Rear:                       56
       Limited-slip Deceleration
          Front:                      0
          Rear:                       30
       Gear Ratio (Auto Setting):     Level 45
       Downforce
          Front:                      0.45
          Rear:                       0.75
       AYC Controller:                N/A
       Active Stability Management:   Level 3
       TCS Controller:                Level 1
       VCD Controller:                N/A
    
    Race 7: Laguna Seca
       Spring Rate
          Front:                      12.4 kgl/mm
          Rear:                       12.4 kgl/mm
       Ride Height
          Front:                      50 mm
          Rear:                       50 mm
       Shock Absorbers
          Front:                      N/A
          Rear:                       N/A
       Shock Bound
          Front:                      5
          Rear:                       5
       Shock Rebound
          Front:                      5
          Rear:                       5
       Camber Angle
          Front:                      2.0
          Rear:                       1.0
       Toe Angle
          Front:                      0.0
          Rear:                       -3.0
       Stabilizers
          Front:                      N/A
          Rear:                       N/A
       Brake Balance
          Front:                      Level 21
          Rear:                       Level 21
       Limited-slip Initial Torque
          Front:                      0
          Rear:                       15
       Limited-slip Acceleration
          Front:                      0
          Rear:                       40
       Limited-slip Deceleration
          Front:                      0
          Rear:                       30
       Gear Ratio (Auto Setting):     Level 33
       Downforce
          Front:                      0.77
          Rear:                       1.29
       AYC Controller:                N/A
       Active Stability Management:   Level 10
       TCS Controller:                Level 5
       VCD Controller:                N/A
    
    Race 8: Apricot Hill
       Spring Rate
          Front:                      12.4 kgl/mm
          Rear:                       12.4 kgl/mm
       Ride Height
          Front:                      50 mm
          Rear:                       50 mm
       Shock Absorbers
          Front:                      N/A
          Rear:                       N/A
       Shock Bound
          Front:                      5
          Rear:                       5
       Shock Rebound
          Front:                      5
          Rear:                       5
       Camber Angle
          Front:                      2.0
          Rear:                       1.0
       Toe Angle
          Front:                      0.0
          Rear:                       -3.0
       Stabilizers
          Front:                      N/A
          Rear:                       N/A
       Brake Balance
          Front:                      Level 23
          Rear:                       Level 23
       Limited-slip Initial Torque
          Front:                      0
          Rear:                       15
       Limited-slip Acceleration
          Front:                      0
          Rear:                       40
       Limited-slip Deceleration
          Front:                      0
          Rear:                       30
       Gear Ratio (Auto Setting):     Level 35
       Downforce
          Front:                      0.77
          Rear:                       1.29
       AYC Controller:                N/A
       Active Stability Management:   Level 10
       TCS Controller:                Level 5
       VCD Controller:                N/A
    
    Race 9: Tokyo R246
       Spring Rate
          Front:                      16.1 kgl/mm
          Rear:                       16.1 kgl/mm
       Ride Height
          Front:                      46 mm
          Rear:                       46 mm
       Shock Absorbers
          Front:                      N/A
          Rear:                       N/A
       Shock Bound
          Front:                      5
          Rear:                       5
       Shock Rebound
          Front:                      5
          Rear:                       5
       Camber Angle
          Front:                      2.0
          Rear:                       1.0
       Toe Angle
          Front:                      0.0
          Rear:                       -3.0
       Stabilizers
          Front:                      N/A
          Rear:                       N/A
       Brake Balance
          Front:                      Level 23
          Rear:                       Level 23
       Limited-slip Initial Torque
          Front:                      0
          Rear:                       15
       Limited-slip Acceleration
          Front:                      0
          Rear:                       48
       Limited-slip Deceleration
          Front:                      0
          Rear:                       43
       Gear Ratio (Auto Setting):     Level 44
       Downforce
          Front:                      0.61
          Rear:                       1.08
       AYC Controller:                N/A
       Active Stability Management:   Level 10
       TCS Controller:                Level 5
       VCD Controller:                N/A
    
    Race 10: Cote d'Azur/Monaco
       Spring Rate
          Front:                      16.1 kgl/mm
          Rear:                       16.1 kgl/mm
       Ride Height
          Front:                      58 mm
          Rear:                       58 mm
       Shock Absorbers
          Front:                      N/A
          Rear:                       N/A
       Shock Bound
          Front:                      5
          Rear:                       5
       Shock Rebound
          Front:                      5
          Rear:                       5
       Camber Angle
          Front:                      2.0
          Rear:                       1.0
       Toe Angle
          Front:                      0.0
          Rear:                       -3.0
       Stabilizers
          Front:                      N/A
          Rear:                       N/A
       Brake Balance
          Front:                      Level 23
          Rear:                       Level 23
       Limited-slip Initial Torque
          Front:                      0
          Rear:                       30
       Limited-slip Acceleration
          Front:                      0
          Rear:                       54
       Limited-slip Deceleration
          Front:                      0
          Rear:                       55
       Gear Ratio (Auto Setting):     Level 32
       Downforce
          Front:                      0.82
          Rear:                       1.33
       AYC Controller:                N/A
       Active Stability Management:   Level 10
       TCS Controller:                Level 5
       VCD Controller:                N/A
    
    ====================================
    
    FORMULA GT: ADJUSTING CAR SET-UPS
    Gran Turismo 3 allows for significant car customization.
    However, I find that there are just a few things which will
    provide great changes in car handling when adjusted:
    
    Brake Balance: Brake strength for each axle can be adjusted
                   independently.  I personally like strong
                   braking ability (Level 20 or higher), to
                   allow for late braking zones to pass other
                   cars on corner entry.
    Downforce:     This is the single most important item which
                   can affect car handling in corners.  Downforce
                   on an F1 car makes use of the front and rear
                   wings; thus, downforce can be adjusted for the
                   front and rear of the car independently.
                      The downforce can be raised to improve
                   cornering ability, but this will result in
                   lower top-end speed and slower acceleration.
                   Conversely, lowering downforce will make
                   cornering at high speeds more difficult (thus
                   requiring slower cornering speeds), while
                   improving acceleration and top-end speed.
    Gear Ratios:   Gran Turismo 3 provides two methods for
                   adjusting gear ratios: the auto setting (the
                   lowermost slider on the Gear Ratios screen)
                   and manual setting (the smaller sliders on the
                   Gear Ratios screen).  In general, using the
                   auto setting slider is good enough; experts
                   may prefer to fine-tune each gear using the
                   smaller manual setting sliders above.
                      Raising the gear ratios (moving a slider
                   toward the right) will result in higher
                   speeds before gear changes, and thus a higher
                   top-end speed overall; however, acceleration
                   will be slower.  Lowering the gear ratios
                   (moving a slider toward the left) will result
                   in lower speeds before gear changes, and thus
                   a lower top-end speed overall; however, this
                   creates faster acceleration.  Those using the
                   smaller manual setting sliders can essentially
                   mix-and-match gear ratios; perhaps the lower
                   gears can be set for faster acceleration while
                   the higher gears can be set for faster top-end
                   speed.  Note that Final Gear affects all the
                   other gears in addition to how each individual
                   gear has been set.
                      Caution: Using too high a gear ratio in the
                   higher gears can cause a car to have some
                   difficulty climbing into the highest gear,
                   and/or drop from the highest gear to the
                   next-lowest gear very quickly.  This is due
                   to the engine not being able to keep up
                   enough revs to climb into or stay in the
                   highest gear.  If such a high gear ratio is
                   important, try lowering the front and rear
                   downforce and ride height  as much as possible
                   while still attempting to maintain car control
                   in cornering; if this does not work, then the
                   gear ratio will need to be lowered.
    Ride Height:   Ride height is adjustable for both the front
                   and rear axles.  Whereas downforce controls
                   the flow of air over the car, ride height
                   handles airflow underneath the vehicle.  As
                   with downforce, raise ride height to improve
                   cornering at the sacrifice of acceleration and
                   top-end speed; lower ride height to improve
                   acceleration and top-end speed while
                   sacrificing high-speed cornering ability.
    
    Often, making adjustments in one aspect of a car's set-up
    will require adjusting other aspects as well in order to
    maintain a good balance for car handling.  Adjustments will
    almost certainly be necessary; the set-ups provided in this
    section are simply suggestions based upon my rather-
    aggressive driving style, and will likely require some fine-
    tuning for use by others.
    
    ====================================
    
    FORMULA GT: SAMPLE RACE PERFORMANCE
    Here is my sample race performance in Formula GT.  For Start
    and Finish, I designate positions in FIA style: P1 for First
    Place/Pole Position, P2 for Second Place, P3 for Third Place,
    P4 for Fourth Place, P5 for Fifth Place, and P6 for Sixth
    Place.  Also, points are awarded in FIA style: ten points for
    P1, six points for P2, four points for P3, three points for
    P4, two points for P5, and a single point for P6; in order to
    receive points, a car must finish a given race (in other
    words, canceling out of a race is not permitted).
    
    Race              Start   Finish  Pit Strategy    Fastest Lap
    ----------------  -----   ------  --------------  -----------
    Midfield Raceway  P1      P1      8, 16, 23       0'55.692
    Seattle           P1      P1      8, 16, 24, 32   1'12.806
    Grand Valley      P1      P1      6, 12, 17, 24   1'29.584
    Super Speedway    P1      P1      10, 20, 30, 40  0'26.564
    Rome              P1      P2      10, 19          1'06.462
    Test Course*      P1      P1      No stops*       1'42.108
    Laguna Seca       P1      P2      8, 16, 22, 28   1'03.171
    Apricot Hill      P1      P1      7, 14, 21       1'01.112
    Tokyo R246**      P3      P6      5, 10, 15, 20   1'17.868
    Cote d'Azur/      ***     ***     ***             ***
       Monaco***
    
    *   For the 25-lap Test Course race, it is best to NEVER make
        any stops to change tires.  The course is so wide that
        there is always enough room to make passes (especially
        when drafting), and the banked turns are so incredibly
        gentle that there is to reason to worry about needing
        tires for braking and cornering.  However, with the
        suggested car set-up for Test Course, the left-rear tire
        will wear down far faster than any of the other tires,
        meaning that for three or four laps, the car will
        constantly want to edge to the left until the other three
        tire indicators also show red; near-continuous
        countersteering will be required for the straightaways,
        and extra care will be needed if running high on the
        banking.
    
    **  Entering the race at Tokyo R246, I only needed one more
        point in order to guarantee winning the Formula GT
        series (the next closest car in the series was exactly
        20 points behind entering the penultimate race of the
        series).  Therefore, I did not bother truly trying to
        compete, as finishing in last place would grant me the
        single point I needed.  This accounts for finishing in
        last place and making so many pit stops in comparison
        with the length of the race (25 laps); going six or seven
        laps between stops would have made driving rather
        difficult on the back side of the course with its many
        high-speed twists and corners.
    
    *** Since the series was won following the penultimate race
        (at Tokyo R246), I purposely canceled out of Cote
        d'Azur/Monaco.  The series having been won, I instead
        intend to complete this race as an individual race at a
        later date.  This will also allow me to participate in
        the Cote d'Azur/Monaco race with a car fresh from the
        Car Wash and with fresh oil.
    
    ====================================
    ====================================
    ====================================
    
    GENEAL Q&A
    This section focuses upon questions that newcomers to Gran
    Turismo 3 often ask, as reflected on the GameFAQs Gran
    Turismo 3 message board.  These questions are not presented
    in any particular order.
    
    Q: What is the best car to start with in GT3?
    A: Check the section Initial Car Selection above.
    
    Q: Can I change the car's oil during a series or
       championship?
    A: No.  Therefore, it is important to change the oil BEFORE
       entering a series or championship, to ensure that the oil
       will last as long as possible before it begins to degrade
       the car's horsepower output.  For the series and
       championships in Beginners League, it may be possible to
       not change the oil before entering, and not suffer any
       loss of horsepower as the Beginners League races are quite
       short; however, in this case, if the oil is already rather
       dark or murky, change the oil anyway before entering the
       series or championship.
          Consider this: An oil change only costs 250Cr.  Except
       for the Beginners League events and Rally Events, even
       finishing in last place will result in gaining more money
       than was spent on an oil change.
    
    Q: Are there codes for <insert item here>?
    A: There is only one true code in Gran Turismo 3, and it
       adds another difficulty level to Arcade Mode events.  To
       enter Professional difficulty, go to Arcade Mode and
       select Hard difficulty.  Hold the L1 and R1 buttons
       simultaneously, and Hard will switch to Professional.
          While not a code per se, there is a 'trick' that can be
       used with an automatic transmission.  To keep the car from
       automatically shifting gears, press and hold either the
       shift-up or shift-down button (which buttons are assigned
       to these functions will depend on how you have set your
       controller).  This may or may not be very useful,
       depending on driving style.
          All other codes are actually GameShark2 codes, and
       require GameShark2 version 1.4 or greater.  These codes
       are available on appropriate GameShark2 discs, and at the
       GameShark Web site (http://www.gameshark.com/).
    
    Q: What is the best car in the game?
    A: This is largely an inherently idiosyncratic question.  For
       pure speed, the Suzuki Escudo Pikes Peak Version is by far
       the best when given maximum turbo parts, resulting in over
       1800HP.  However, in great contrast to Gran Turismo 2, the
       Escudo is virtually impossible to control in GT3.  Thus,
       there are really only two places where the Escudo is a
       viable car choice.  At Super Speedway, the Escudo can be
       forced to corner by bouncing off the walls; this tactic
       can be used at any other circuit, obviously, but most
       other venues are so tight and twisty that this tactic then
       backfires.  However, the best place to use the Escudo is
       at Test Course, where the corners are so incredibly gentle
       and the banking steep enough that there is really no
       reason for touching the barriers at all.
          Overall (meaning great turning capabilities AND fast
       speeds), any F1 car is the best option.  The low center of
       gravity combined with the light weight of the F1 cars make
       them a prime choice; however, car control can be quite
       twitchy for the same reasons.  See my Gran Turismo 3: F1
       Guide for details on the F1 cars.
          Beyond the Escudo and the F1 cars, the 'best car' in
       the game depends upon several factors.  The primary factor
       is the level of comfort with a given car's drivetrain;
       myself, I really dislike FR cars, but love 4WD and FF
       drivetrains.  Another issue is horsepower; in other words,
       how well can a player handle cars with 100HP, 300HP,
       800HP, and 1800HP?  Finally, how well a player can TUNE a
       given car will definitely affect which cars are the 'best'
       in the game.
    
    Q: How does Gran Turismo 3 compare to Gran Turismo 2?
    A: The first difference (other than the console for which
       each game was designed) is in the area of graphics.  In
       general, GT3 uses very photorealistic graphics, which made
       it a groundbreaking game when initially released.  Of
       course, Final Fantasy: The Spirits Within was supposedly a
       photorealistic film, but there were really only a few
       scenes which truly seemed photorealistic.
          Not surprisingly, some new circuits have been added to
       GT3, while some circuits from GT2 have been removed.  All
       returning circuits have received cosmetic facelifts to
       become photorealistic.
          However, the biggest chance is in the cars themselves.
       Not only are there just 1/3 the number of cars compared to
       GT2, there are also NO used cars in GT3.  This makes the
       initial car selection both much more limited and much more
       important than in GT2.  Finally, there are no racing
       modification options available in GT3.
    
    Q: Which races offer F1 cars?
    A: Every Endurance Race offers an F1 car as one of four
       potential bonus cars.  Polyphony Digital Cup and Dream
       Car Championship also offer F1 cars.  However, in these
       cases, there are non-F1 cars offered as well; since
       bonus cars in these events/series/championships are
       assigned at random, there is a 25% change that you will
       actually win the F1 car.
          To guarantee receiving an F1 car, win Formula GT, for
       which ALL bonus cars are F1 cars.  Alternatively, winning
       ALL Endurance Races results in receiving the F094/H.
          Note that this information is for the NTSC (Never Twice
       Same Color) version of GT3.  The PAL version (primarily
       used in Europe, and in some other parts of the world)
       only has two F1 cars, Polyphony 001 and Polyphony 002.  I
       would assume that for the sake of consistency, the game
       developers would make F1 cars in the PAL version available
       in the same manner as in the NTSC version, but this is
       simply a guess on my part as I do not have access to a
       PAL console/game.
    
    Q: Can I choose which bonus car I want?
    A: For those series or events with only one potential bonus
       car, no.  Further, once the bonus car has been acquired,
       it cannot be won again.  For those cars which are not
       available in the car dealerships, this means that there is
       only one chance to acquire those cars.
          For series or championships with more than one possible
       bonus car, there is a memory card trick which can be used
       to acquire a specific car.  After the penultimate race of
       the series or championship, save game progress.  Then,
       either compete in the final event or (if you already have
       a lead of at least eleven points) skip the final event.
       Once the final race has been cleared, collect the bonus
       money, and wait to see which bonus car you are given.  If
       it is a car you want, then you are done; if you do not
       want/like the car assigned, go back to the Main Menu
       (where the selection between Simulation/GT and Arcade
       Modes is made) and reload game progress to be taken back
       to the end of the penultimate race and try again.
          Each Endurance Race offers four potential bonus cars.
       However, if you do not receive a car you are trying to
       acquire, your only option is to rerace.  To that end,
       the Endurance Races at Seattle and Super Speedway are the
       easiest, as they can be won in under sixty minutes with a
       fast car (the F1 cars are especially adept at these two
       Endurance Races).
    
    Q: How are the final events in Professional League unlocked?
    A: These events - Dream Car Championship, Polyphony Digital
       Cup, Like the Wind, and Formula GT - are unlocked upon the
       acquisition of a Super License (S-License).
    
    Q: Can I have multiple game saves for Gran Turismo 3 on a
       single memory card?
    A: No.  'Multiple game saves' requires two different memory
       cards.  However, when the game is initially loaded, the
       game data in Memory Card Slot #1 is the game data which
       will be automatically loaded; to instead use the game
       data from another memory card, either swap memory cards
       in Memory Card Slot #1, or insert a second memory card
       into Memory Card Slot #2 - in either case, then use the
       Load Game option from the main menu, select the
       appropriate Memory Card Slot, and press OK to load.
    
    Q: Can Arcade Mode cars be used in Simulation/GT Mode, and
       vice versa?
    A: Arcade Mode cars are only available for Arcade Mode.
       However, completing the Complex String Time Trial in
       Arcade Mode will add a bonus car to the garage for
       Simulation/GT Mode; this is the only exception.
          Simulation/GT Mode cars, however, CAN be used in
       Arcade Mode, except for Time Trials.  This is accomplished
       by selecting an event, then at the Car Select screen,
       loading the Garage present on the memory card (look for
       the memory card icon to load the garage).  Any car in the
       garage which can be used at the chosen venue can then be
       selected; the only time in Arcade Mode that cars from the
       garage cannot be used is if a dirt-based venue has been
       selected (such as Swiss Alps or Tahiti Maze), in which
       case only those cars from the garage which have Dirt Tires
       (standard equipment on rally-intended cars; purchased
       specially for other cars) can be used.
    
    Q: How do I acquire cars which are shown in the car
       dealership but are not available for purchase?
    A: These cars can be won by winning certain events in
       Simulation/GT Mode.  Also, some of these cars are awarded
       for reaching 50%, 75%, and 100% game completion; for
       winning ALL events in a league; and for completing certain
       difficult tasks (such as attaining ALL Gold Medals in the
       tests for any one license).
    
    Q: My car reaches a given speed, then drops in speed before
       climbing again, and this happens repeatedly.  How can I
       fix this?
    A: Most likely, the car does not have a Full Racing
       Transmission.  Buying this part (approximately 11,000Cr)
       allows for gear customization, and also often adds another
       gear to the transmission.  Adjusting the gears should
       resolve the problem, unless racing at Test Course.
          Using automatic transmission, a trick which works with
       some cars is to press and hold either the Shift Up or
       Shift Down button before the transmission climbs into the
       car's highest gear.  In some cases, this will allow for a
       higher top-end speed than if the car were to climb into
       its highest gear.  This trick, as mentioned in a previous
       question, prevents the transmission from shifting up or
       down, which is what creates the higher sustained speed.
       In reality, this would likely cause a massive engine
       failure; fortunately, that aspect of reality is missing
       from Gran Turismo 3.
    
    Q: How do I get <insert tuning part here>?
    A: In the Tuning Shop, parts are shown only if they can be
       purchased for the current car.  Therefore, if a car
       cannot handle Level 4 Turbo, then Level 4 Turbo will not
       be offered.
          Note that if you acquire a racing-dedicated car, many
       parts cannot be 'added' or are listed as 'Purchased'
       because they come standard with that car.  Along those
       lines, all racing-dedicated cars come with Medium Tires
       as standard equipment; rally-dedicated cars also include
       Dirt Tires as standard equipment.
    
    Q: What is the best car for <insert event here>?
    A: There are a number of factors which affect which is the
       'best' car for a given event.  If there are no limitations
       on horsepower, drivetrain, or car model, then the F1 cars
       are generally a good bet, except for the Like the Wind
       event (in this case, the Suzuki Escudo is likely the best
       car to use).  Otherwise, factors such as tire compound,
       comfort level with a given drivetrain, horsepower, and
       driving style will influence the decision of a 'best car.'
          If there are restrictions beyond the acquisition of a
       specific license, things obviously change.  Ask friends or
       post on Gran Turismo 3 message boards for opinions, but
       take the responses with several grains of salt; what works
       well for one player - especially in the area of car
       set-ups - could be an absolute nightmare for another
       person.
    
    Q: Which is better, automatic or manual transmission?
    A: Automatic transmission is 'easier' in that there is no
       worry about shifting gears; as such, it may be the best
       choice for those just starting with Gran Turismo 3, and
       is definitely the best choice for young children.
       However, manual transmission provides an extra measure of
       control over the car by choosing exactly when to shift
       gears.
          While not a code per se, there is a 'trick' that can be
       used with an automatic transmission.  To keep the car from
       automatically shifting gears, press and hold either the
       shift-up or shift-down button (which buttons are assigned
       to these functions will depend on how you have set your
       controller).  This may or may not be very useful,
       depending on driving style and race venue.
    
    Q: Are there any cars with seven gears in Gran Turismo 3?
    A: No.  Although there are slots for customizing seven gears
       with the Full Racing Transmission, no car in GT3 has seven
       gears.  This appears to be a holdover from previous games
       in the series.  It is also possible that there were plans
       to include at least one car with seven gears, but that
       such cars were removed in the development phase (likely
       due to licensing issues).
    
    Q: How do I qualify?  Is qualifying necessary?
    A: Once a race has been selected, qualifying is done by
       choosing the Qualify button (second from the left) at the
       bottom of the Pre-race screen.  For qualifying, players
       begin in Pit Lane, and must make one complete lap and come
       back around to the Start/Finish Line to begin the actual
       qualifying attempt.  There is no limit to the number of
       qualifying laps permitted; however, the more qualifying
       laps you make, the better the CPU-controlled cars
       qualify, so once you attain Pole Position, exit Qualifying
       immediately to ensure that you keep Pole Position.
          Those who do not choose to qualify automatically start
       each race from P6 (the last slot on the grid).  Qualifying
       is never 'necessary,' but starting on the front row can be
       especially advantageous at Cote d'Azur/Monaco due to the
       massive bottleneck which often occurs at Turn 1.
          Unfortunately, there is no bonus money awarded for
       qualifying on Pole Position, as there was in the original
       Gran Turismo.  For this reason, many players may wish to
       simply skip Qualifying and start each race from P6.
    
    Q: What is the purpose of the Car Wash?
    A: Aesthetically, as you use a car, it loses its showroom
       shine, dulling the color.  Washing the car will return the
       showroom shine to the vehicle.  This really only affects
       how light sources are rendered in relation to the car.
          In terms of car handling, there is a slight aerodynamic
       advantage to having a newly-washed car.  As a car is used,
       it gets dirty, which disrupts the optimum flow of air over
       and around the car.  A newly-washed car, however, provides
       a much smoother surface, thus allowing better airflow and
       thus faster acceleration and higher top-end speed.
          Some players have reported, however, that repeated use
       of the Car Wash can slowly change the color of the car.
       While I have not encountered this phenomenon; any such
       color change would be purely aesthetic and not affect car
       handling.
    
    Q: Where can I save my game progress?
    A: There is a Save Game option on the Main Menu, and another
       in Home; once in Simulation/GT Mode, players will likely
       use the Save Game option in Home.  However, once entered
       in a series or championship, game progress can be saved
       following all but the final race; in this case, reloading
       game progress or restarting the console will result in
       automatically being returned to the point at which the
       game progress was last saved.
    
    Q: What is involved in attaining 100% game completion?
    A: In Arcade Mode, all Single Race events must be won and all
       Time Trials must be passed with a Bronze Medal or better.
          In Simulation/GT Mode, players will need to have
       attained ALL licenses (B, A, IB, IA, Rally, and Super) in
       order to sweep through every event, series, and
       championship.  However, simply acquiring all six licenses
       does not result in a higher game completion percentage.
          In Simulation/GT Mode, there is a 'shortcut' to gaining
       100% game completion.  Series and championships have a
       given number of individual races; to gain 100% game
       completion, ALL series/championships AND ALL individual
       races must be won.  However, winning a race within a
       series or championship also grants a win for that same
       race on the individual scale, thus killing two stones with
       one bird.  (However, for long series/championships, once
       a significant points lead has been attained and the
       series/championship can be won even with canceling out of
       the remaining races, it helps the oil situation to cancel
       out of the rest of the races.  The win for the series or
       championship will be used toward game completion
       percentage, as will the individual wins for the races
       won within the series/championship.  Once having exited
       the series/championship, save game progress and change the
       oil to prevent any further loss of horsepower, then go
       back and INDIVIDUALLY complete the rest of the races in
       the series/championship.  This is also a good way to
       selectively skip races within a series/championship where
       the current car may not perform well enough to be very
       competitive, thus allowing a return later with a different
       car which will have a better chance of winning at a
       specific venue.)
          Similarly, in Arcade Mode, each Single Race event must
       be won at all three difficulty levels (Easy, Medium, and
       Hard) to attain 100% game completion.  Winning a race at a
       given venue on Hard difficulty also grants wins for that
       same venue on both Easy and Medium difficulties.  This is
       another time-saving 'shortcut.'
          In the effort to attain 100% game completion, a bonus
       car is awarded for beating all events in Arcade Time
       Trials, as well as the 50%, 75%, and 100% milestones of
       game completion percentage.  Bonus cars are also awarded
       for winning ALL events in each of Beginners League,
       Amateur League, Professional League, Rally Events, and
       Endurance Races.  Therefore, it is possible to win
       multiple bonus cars at once; for example, upon winning the
       Super Speedway 150 Miles Endurance Race, a player could
       win one of its four potential bonus cars, PLUS the F094/H
       for defeating all Endurance Races with that win, PLUS
       another bonus car for attaining 50%, 75%, or 100% game
       completion with that win.
    
    Q: How many sets of tires do I need to purchase?
    A: One nice and somewhat-unrealistic element in GT3 is that
       once a type or compound of tire has been purchased, THAT
       CAR has an unlimited supply of those tires.  Therefore, it
       is possible to NEVER buy tires for racing-dedicated cars,
       which all come with Medium Tires as standard equipment;
       likewise, there is no reason to buy tires for rally-
       intended cars, which include Dirt Tires as standard
       equipment.  Note that F1 cars can ONLY use Medium Tires.
          For non-racing cars, Normal Tires (street tires) are
       standard equipment, and are utterly useless for racing
       purposes.  Sports Tires are better, and generally cost
       around 7,000Cr, but even these are far interior to the
       racing compounds.  Therefore, if using non-racing cars,
       it is best to buy at least one tire compound; of these,
       Super-slick Tires are the cheapest at approximately
       11,000Cr, but it takes extreme skill to safely drive a
       car with Super-slick Tires at high speeds, especially
       when cornering.  Obviously, non-racing cars will require
       Dirt Tires for the dirt-based Rally Events.
    
    Q: The F1 cars are SO good, is it 'cheating' to use them in
       races?
    A: This is an inherently subjective question.  My opinion:
       WHY would it be 'cheating' to use F1 cars in any event
       for which they are legal entries (i.e., not non-tuned-
       only events, etc.)?  Certainly, some feel that because
       the F1 cars are so fast and agile, they should not be used
       except in select races (primarily the Formula GT series)
       where the competition is much tougher, or at F1 circuits
       (such as Cote d'Azur/Monaco), but there is absolutely
       nothing prohibiting players from using F1 cars to work
       through Beginners, Amateur, and Professional Leagues - as
       well as the Endurance Races.  F1 cars can even compete in
       Rally Events, but only in the six wet-based races.
          There are also players like myself who simply adore F1
       racing, so the possibility of using F1 cars as often as
       possible is great.  Also, Gran Turismo 3 (North American
       version) presents some historic F1 cars, which are
       unavailable in the F1-dedicated games currently on the
       market.  See my GT3: F1 Guide for details on the F1 cars
       and their histories.
    
    Q: What is the rubber band trick used at Super Speedway?
    A: I have never tried this myself, but there has been plenty
       of discussion on the Internet about easy ways to complete
       the Super Speedway 150 Miles Endurance Race.  Granted,
       this is the easiest of the Endurance Races, but apparently
       some are not content with running 100 laps on their own.
       The rubber back trick steps in to make the chosen car
       continually run laps until the race has ended; the best
       car for this is the Suzuki Escudo Pikes Peak Version.
          The following is from TIME X's post on instructions
       for the rubber band trick, as posted on the GameFAQs GT3
       message board on May 31, 2002:
    
       OK, This is how you do the RUBBERBAND TRICK!!!!! There are
       2 ways.
    
       TAPE and RUBBER:
    
       1. Just get a rubberband and a piece of tape. At the
       countdown screen, tape down the accelerator button and
       wrap the rubberband over the TWO analog sticks. Now just
       leave it alone for one hour. You WILL crash into the wall
       but that's okay. You will just 'ride the wall' to win.
    
       ONLY RUBBER:
    
       1. Go to Options and go to the Controller Setup Screen.
    
       2. Go to the Accelerator and set the accelerator so that
       if the RIGHT ANALOG STICK is push to the LEFT, then it
       will accelerate.
    
       3. Go to Super Speedway Endurance with an Escudo.
    
       4. Get a rubberband and wrap it around the TWO analog
       sticks at the countdown.
    
       When you start, your car WILL crash to the right wall but
       that is OKAY! You will then RIDE the wall and pass
       everyone. Just stay for a little bit for like 2-5 laps and
       make sure nothing happens so that your car gets stuck.
    
       If it goes well without getting stuck, then turn off the
       TV, put your controller in a safe spot, and take a ONE
       HOUR sleep. When you wake up and check it, then you would
       have won and lapped the CPUs about 20 times.
    
    Q: Is it possible to cancel out of a series or championship
       and still win the bonus money and one of the bonus cars?
    A: It is definitely possible to cancel out of a series or
       championship and still win the bonus money and one of the
       bonus cars.  This is because series and championships in
       Gran Turismo 3 use the FIA-style points system, so that in
       each race, finishing first grants 10 points, finishing
       second grants 6 points, finishing third grants 4 points,
       finishing fourth grants 3 points, finishing fifth grants
       2 points, and finishing sixth (last) grants a single
       point.  Armed with this information, there is a formula
       which dictates when it is possible to cancel out of a
       series or championship and still win the bonus money and
       one of the bonus cars.  If the player's lead is AT LEAST:
    
                (10 x the remaining number of races) + 1
    
       then the player can safely cancel out of the remaining
       races and still win the series or championship.  Should a
       player and a competitor both end a series or championship
       tied for the points lead, the player WILL NOT receive the
       bonus money and one of the bonus cars; therefore, the
       'extra' one point is a crucial advantage, one which
       players must take strides to achieve.  This also means,
       however, that if only the final single point is required
       to guarantee winning the series or championship, then a
       player need only participate in and COMPLETE one of the
       remaining races, as finishing in last place in GT3 still
       results in attaining a single point (this is not the case
       in some other racing games, such as Newman-Haas Racing).
          Canceling out of a series, however, can have negative
       consequences for those attempting to attain 100% game
       completion.  Each race won in a series is also considered
       an individual race win, thus requiring less overall work
       from the player.  Canceling out of a series or
       championship will mean that the player must come back at
       a later time/date to win the individual races not
       completed during the series or championship.
          On the other hand, canceling out of a series or
       championship can be of great benefit.  Gran Turismo 3 does
       not allow for a car's oil to be changed once a series or
       championship is underway, which means that as the events
       wear on, the car's oil becomes dirtier and dirtier and the
       car's performance decreases noticeably; this is especially
       important in the super-difficult Formula GT series, where
       car performance is a top priority, especially in the
       latter races of Formula GT.  Should a player attain enough
       points to safely cancel out of remaining races in a series
       or championship, car performance degradation can be
       terminated and the car's oil changed.  This still requires
       returning to complete the individual races not won during
       the series or championship itself; however, the car will
       be able to perform at its best, and will not be hampered
       by poor performance due to extremely dirty oil.
          However, there is no easy way to cancel out of a
       series or championship in GT3.  Using the Exit button will
       cause the player to leave the series or championship
       outright, with no bonuses given if appropriate.  Instead,
       players are forced to go to each of the remaining races,
       enter each race as normal, and then press Start, then
       select Exit and confirm.  The player is then presented
       with the post-race results screen, and the player MUST
       select Next to either go to the next race (if any remain
       in the series or championship) or the bonus money/car
       screens.
          Remember that once a series or championship is won, it
       is possible to 'select' the bonus car desired.  See the
       question 'Can I choose which bonus car I want?' above.
    
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    OTHER GUIDES OF INTEREST
    There are numerous other guides for Gran Turismo 3 available
    on the Internet.  Here are some of my favorite guides - plus
    my own GT3-related guides - available from GameFAQs
    (http://www.GameFAQs.com/); some are also available elsewhere
    on the Web.  The guide title/topic is followed by the
    author(s) in parentheses.
    
    Advertisers Guide (Jamie Stafford/Wolf Feather)
       This guide will not help with gameplay in any way.
       However, for those who wonder what the various
       advertisers do - the products they make or the services
       they offer - this guide can provide some useful
       information.
    Arcade Mode FAQ (Jim Phillips)
       Arcade Mode is simpler and has relatively less to do than
       Simulation Mode, but there are still MANY aspects to
       Arcade Mode.  This guide covers the many race venues
       (most which must be unlocked), hidden/unlockable items,
       strategies, and information on iLink competitions.
    A-License Guide (Dallas)
       This guide presents strategies and even maps for the
       successful completion of the tests for the A License.  A
       monowidth font is EXTREMELY important due to the included
       maps.
    B-License Guide (Dallas)
       This guide presents strategies and even maps for the
       successful completion of the tests for the B License.  A
       monowidth font is EXTREMELY important due to the included
       maps.
    Car Database (AdrenalineSL)
       Quite simply, this guide lists every car in the game and
       its statistics.  What is truly nice is that this guide
       also lists all the prize cars in the game, including the
       cars won for successfully completing various aspects of
       the game (all Gold Medals in all the tests for a given
       license, attaining a particular game completion
       percentage, etc.).  Finally, the guide presents
       information on various driving issues, such as braking,
       acceleration, drivetrains, and drift racing.
    Car Power Rankings (Palfy)
       This guide uses come theoretical mathematical formula I
       simply do not understand to determine a ranking order of
       car power for the cars of Gran Turismo 3.  Explanations
       are given for how the results were achieved, but it is
       still difficult to comprehend (at least for me).  What
       really matters is the car power list, with the most
       powerful listed first.  Certainly, anyone who has driven
       an F1 car in GT3 knows firsthand why the F1 cars are at
       the top of the list.  This guide can be useful for
       selecting the first few cars in the game to try to gain
       an advantage over the competition.
    Cote d'Azur Guide (Jamie Stafford/Wolf Feather)
       GT3 introduces several new venues to the series, including
       this world-famous F1 circuit used annually for the Grand
       Prix of Monaco.  This guide presents detailed driving
       instructions for making a clean lap at Cote d'Azur/Monaco,
       as well as sample lap times with a variety of cars, and
       venue-specific racing tips.
    Drifting FAQ (FoUnDShoGo)
       While the Gran Turismo series is primarily based on grip
       racing, it is possible to engage in drift racing.  The
       Ridge Racer series is perhaps the best-known series for
       PlayStation and PlayStation2 for drift racing; those
       adept at drift racing in the Ridge Racer series may wish
       to read this guide to try it in Gran Turismo 3.
    IA-License Guide (Jamie Stafford/Wolf Feather)
       This guide specifically covers the eight IA License Tests
       in Gran Turismo 3.  These are some of the trickiest
       license tests in the game, using mid-powered normal and
       race cars.  The IA License is required to participate in
       Endurance Races, and permits entry to all events in the
       game except Rally Events and the final events in
       Professional League.
    IB-License Guide (Jamie Stafford/Wolf Feather)
       This guide specifically covers the eight IB License Tests
       in Gran Turismo 3.  These are some of the trickiest
       license tests in the game, using mid-powered normal cars.
    Laguna Seca Guide (Jamie Stafford/Wolf Feather)
       This is yet another venue-specific guide, again with
       detailed driving instructions and sample lap times for
       a variety of cars.
    Rally License Guide (Jamie Stafford/Wolf Feather)
       This guide is designed to provide tips in acquiring a
       Rally License in Gran Turismo 3; the goal, therefore, is
       to assist drivers in earning a Bronze Medal.  The Rally
       License is actually the easiest of the six licenses to
       earn (but just as difficult as the others for obtaining
       Gold Medals in all eight tests), but those new to driving
       on dirt are nonetheless likely to find rally racing a bit
       tricky.  Experience with rally-dedicated games, such as
       the Colin McRae series or World Rally Championship, can
       be of tremendous use in working the tests for the Gran
       Turismo 3 Rally License.
    S-License Guide (Zero360)
       Without question, the S-License is the most difficult of
       the licenses to acquire, and is necessary to enter the
       final events in Professional League, including Formula GT.
       Zero360's guide lists the Gold, Silver, and Bronze times,
       general tips, and circuit-specific tips for each of the
       license tests (consisting of a hot lap at one of the
       circuits in the game).
    Tokyo R246 Guide (Jamie Stafford/Wolf Feather)
       Here is another venue-specific guide, as the Tokyo R246
       circuit was added to the series in GT3.  This is actually
       a thinly-veiled tribute to anime, perhaps the most
       popular cultural product to come from Japan in recent
       years.  The various areas of the circuit are given names
       after anime characters (using both well-known and obscure
       characters) while driving instructions are also given.
       Sample lap times for a variety of vehicles are also
       included in this guide.
    Tuning Guide (Minesweeper)
       This is my favorite guide on the Internet for explaining
       the various parts involved in tuning cars in GT3.
    Tuning Presets (Big D)
       This is different from Minesweeper's Tuning Guide in that
       Big D's Tuning Presets actually gives suggested settings
       to achieve particular feats with a car, ranging from Pure
       Speed to Endurance to Stable Turning and beyond.  However,
       the decision of which of the presets to use will be
       largely dependant upon the venue in question.
    
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    THANKS
    A big thanks to TIME X from the Gran Turismo 3 message board
    on GameFAQs for allowing me to copy his post explaining the
    rubber band trick.
    
    Thanks also to other guide writers for allowing me to point
    to their guides.
    
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    CONTACT INFORMATION
    For questions, rants, raves, comments of appreciation, etc.,
    please contact me at: FEATHER7@IX.NETCOM.COM; also, if you
    have enjoyed this guide and feel that it has been helpful to
    you, I would certainly appreciate a small donation via PayPal
    (http://www.paypal.com/) using the above e-mail address.
    
    To find the latest version of this and all my other PSX/PS2
    game guides, please visit FeatherGuides
    (http://www.angelcities.com/members/feathersites/).  The
    latest version will always be posted at FeatherGuides, while
    other Web sites may lag behind by several days in their
    regularly-scheduled posting updates.
    
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