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    FAQ/Hints and Tips by Wolf Feather

    Version: Final | Updated: 10/07/01 | Search Guide | Bookmark Guide

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    TOKYO EXTREME RACER ZERO: GAME GUIDE
    
    By
    
    Wolf Feather/Jamie Stafford
    FEATHER7@IX.NETCOM.COM
    
    
    Version:   FINAL
    Completed: October 6, 2001
    
    ====================================
    
    CONTENTS
    Spacing and Length
    Permissions
    Introduction
    Cars
    Input from Others
    General Tips
    My Cars
    Wish List
    Contact
    
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    SPACING AND LENGTH
    For optimum readability, this driving guide should be
    viewed/printed using a monowidth font, such as Courier.
    Check for appropriate font setting by making sure the numbers
    and letters below line up:
    
    1234567890123456789012345678901234567890123456789012
    ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZabcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz
    
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    PERMISSIONS
    This guide may ONLY be posted on FeatherGuides, GameFAQs.com,
    PSXCodez.com, Cheatcc.com, Absolute-PlayStation.com,
    gamesover.com, InsidePS2Games.com, RedCoupe, CheatPlanet.com,
    The Cheat Empire, a2zweblinks.com, Gameguru,
    cheatingplanet.com, vgstrategies.com, ps2fantasy.com, and
    neoseeker.com.
    
    Permission is granted to download and print one copy for
    personal use.
    
    ====================================
    
    INTRODUCTION
    Tokyo Extreme Racer Zero is an intriguing game - similar to
    the PlayStation game Tokyo Highway Battle, but far more
    developed and with much more highway to explore.  Also, the
    CPU-controlled Rivals are far more challenging and varied,
    employing a wider array of tactics in their own attempts to
    win each battle.
    
    One of the most interesting aspects of the game (to me) is
    that it shows the complexity of the highway system of a major
    urban area.  The initial course is especially intriguing in
    this respect, and it is rather interesting to compare the
    game version of the highway to a map of Tokyo.
    
    ====================================
    
    CARS
    At the beginning of the game, you will be forced to buy a
    car.  The initial car choice is important, as it should be a
    vehicle with which you will feel very comfortable
    immediately.  Specifically, choose a car type you are already
    familiar with from other driving games.  In my case, I am
    rather adept with 4WD vehicles in the Gran Turismo series, so
    my first cars were 4WD vehicles (TYPE-CE9A and TYPE-CP9A6M).
    
    At the beginning of the game, a fairly powerful Class A car
    can beat just about anyone, even without modifications.
    However, do not buy the most expensive car you can afford.
    Instead, save a little money to buy parts.
    
    NOTE: If you buy a Class A car immediately, you will not be
    able to spend money on any significant parts at the same time
    due to the high cost of the initially-available cars.  On the
    other hand, if you buy a Class B or Class C car, you can
    expect to buy a better car relatively soon in the game
    because you will not have a powerful-enough vehicle to
    compete with the Rivals - this, in essence, is a tremendous
    waste of money.  However, if you buy a Class A car at the
    beginning, you can take that car A LOT further into the game
    before you need to buy a second car.
    
    The first parts you should buy are tires.  ALWAYS buy the
    best possible tires you can afford.  Better tires mean more
    traction, which means both less wheel spin (resulting in
    better acceleration) and better cornering at high speeds.
    Even if you are racing a higher-power car, if you have better
    tires, you can take advantage of corners to catch up and pass
    the Rival.  As you progress through the game, if new sets of
    tires are made available to you (by beating certain Rivals),
    buy them immediately!!!
    
    Once you have bought a car and made any initial
    modifications, go to the Settings screen and make any
    adjustments necessary.  Then leave Quest mode (save your
    game) and go to Free Run.  Learn the initial course in both
    directions, so that you will not have any surprises when you
    go back to Quest mode and begin challenging other drivers.
    Using Free Run, you will also be able to discern if the
    Settings need to be adjusted, and you may begin to notice
    which new parts to buy next once you have enough money to do
    so.  However, Free Run does not include ANY traffic on the
    highway, so if you need to make adjustments to your car,
    consider how the changes will affect handling when weaving in
    and out of traffic.
    
    When ready, go to Time Attack and complete a few rounds there
    on each course.  While you may not necessarily be driving at
    top speed in Free Run, you WILL in Time Attack - after all,
    that IS the point of Time Attack.  This will allow you to set
    a few records to start with, and will give you an idea of how
    the car handles at top speed.  Especially note how to best
    use the car in cornering.  If you want to tune your car
    (especially gear ratios), this is perhaps the best place to
    do it.
    
    Now go back to Quest mode and take on a few Rivals!!!  Return
    to the Garage when necessary to add parts and change
    settings.  Also, periodically (perhaps every 20-30 minutes)
    save your game (System menu), just in case the electricity
    goes out, little siblings squirt the console with a water
    gun, etc.
    
    ====================================
    
    INPUT FROM OTHERS
    Concerning Wanderers, I have received A LOT of e-mails from
    many players.  The following comes from J.D.
    (selsduk@aol.com), and is edited only for formatting purposes
    and minor language:
    
       From: SeLsDuk@aol.com
       Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 06:31:04 EDT
       Subject: ABOUT the WANDeRERS
       To: FEATHER7@ix.netcom.com
    
       Yeah I've been having a BIG <<<deleted for language>>>
       PROB with that.  I've been trying a lot of things but
       sometimes it'll work and sometimes it wont.  Here are my
       suggestions:
    
       1)  Race a WANDERER with a STOCK CAR.  Sometimes, they'll
       race you and keep on your pace.
    
       2)  Go in front of the WANDERER to see if they HIGHBEAM.
       If they don't sometimes it means that they don't wanna
       race you if you highbeam them.
    
       3)  Trial and Error.  This is what me and probably anyone
       else who has been playing TOKYO RACER 2 (DC) or TOKYO
       RACER 0 (PS2).  I raced a couple of KANJO-INNER WANDERERS
       with my PORSCHE 930 TURBO A CLASS CAR 2 951HP seeing that
       they dont wanna race my C CLASS 164 HP car.  Its weird.
    
    I can definitely confirm J.D.'s second point, and his third
    point is what most players probably try by defaultŠ which
    makes them frustrated, and then they e-mail me!!!  As for the
    first point concerning a stock car, how fast can you (the
    player) accumulate A LOT of money for stock car and parts???
    
    For specific information on the Wanderers, see "Wanderer's
    Requirement(s) FAQ" - translated and written by HIKARU2001,
    Wataru, and Reiko - on GameFAQs (and probably also posted
    elsewhere).
    
    Also, some advice concerning the pressure-sensitive PS2
    DualShock2 controller:
    
       From: "Scott Edwards" <sje75@hotmail.com>
       To: FEATHER7@IX.NETCOM.COM
       Subject: Your tokyo extreme racer FAQ
       Date: Thu, 05 Jul 2001 23:49:29
    
       Because the X button on the PS2 controller is pressure
       sensitive, you can find yourself losing a lot of your
       acceleration and speed because you can't hold the button
       down that hard constantly.  One option to fix this is to
       go into the settings in the garage and change the
       sensitivity of the accerlation.  Alternatively, if you
       just use a PS1 controller without analog functions, you
       can effectively hold it down ALL THE WAY all the time.
    
    With appropriate modifications, Scott's tip may also be
    applicable to other games.  Of course, you may also wish to
    make use of the services of Chet (the slightly-insane gaming
    coach) from the recent Blockbuster Video advertising
    campaign, and specifically work on increasing your thumb
    strength and endurance.
    
    Here is some information on a 'child-safety feature:'
    
       From: "Kyle Morse" <e-mail withheld>
       To: feather7@ix.netcom.com
       Subject: TXRZ Child Safety Feature
       Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 00:59:34 -0400
    
       Tokyo Extreme Racer: Zero has a child safety feature. You
       know that little sibling, the one that watches you play.
       Well I'm sure you don't want him/her to play while you're
       temporarily gone. You know their going to play any way
       so i have found that if you pause the game in Quest mode,
       then press SELECT,SQUARE,TRIAGLE,AND CIRCLE at the same
       time. This causes the game to lock and the game is unable
       to to be messed with thru the controller. When you come
       back to unlock the game press and hold SELECT, THEN PRESS
       SQUARE, TRIANGLE, AND CIRCLE. Remember don't let the
       rugrats mess up the gig man!
    
    Also, concerning how muffler choice affects horsepower and
    torque, Jeremy Jones has made a rather interesting
    observation:
    
       Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 21:41:11 -0700 (PDT)
       From: Jeremy Jones <picassoman_13@yahoo.com>
       Subject: About your FAQ
       To: FEATHER7@IX.NETCOM.COM
    
       When I first upgraded the car, I thought it was odd
       how the horsepower goes down with certain higher
       mufflers.  But I then noticed another thing, the
       number of engine upgrade corresponds to the number of
       the muffler.  For example: Say I have a level 4
       engine, well, the best bet would be to go with the
       level 4 muffler, not only is the horsepower the
       highest there, but so is the torque.  And if I had a
       level 2 engine, I'd get a level 2 muffler. If you go
       over the number of your engine upgrade, you will (in
       most cases) lose horsepower and torque.  Understand?
       I thought that was interesting that they chose to go
       that way.
    
    ====================================
    
    GENERAL TIPS
    First, most CPU-controlled Rivals have trouble cornering.
    Therefore, it is generally a good idea to tune a car for
    quick acceleration and to have the best possible tires.  This
    also means that a car tuned in this manner will do fairly
    well on the initial course, but - unless you have a car with
    a MASSIVE horsepower output - very poorly on long, straight
    stretches of highway.  To the extent possible, strategically
    pick the starting point for each battle, even if it means
    tailing a Rival for several kilometers until you reach a
    section with many corners (such as the northern tunnels of
    the initial course).  If necessary, return to garage, then
    re-enter the competition in or just before an area with a lot
    of curves.
    
    In a battle, the car in the lead dictates the direction of
    the battle; if you are trailing and take a different route
    than the leader at a fork in the highway, the battle ends in
    an instant draw.  Very rarely has a CPU-controlled Rival
    taken a different route than I took when I was in the lead,
    so this can be used to your advantage if you are leading.
    Best of all, if one of the forks leads to an area of the
    course which you personally prefer due to better performance
    AND you are in the lead, take it!!!
    
    Rivals DO occasionally make mistakes: ramming other vehicles,
    overcorrecting, hitting toll booth barriers, etc.  Be
    constantly aware, and be ready to take advantage of such
    situations if you are trailing the Rival.  Especially if you
    are approaching the toll booths, don't tail your Rival too
    closely - or try to give as wide a berth as possible - in
    case she/he suddenly rams a toll booth barrier and bounces
    back at you; the same applies for the concrete lane barriers
    underneath the bridges in CI Inner/Outer.
    
    Do not be afraid to use 'dirty tactics' (blocking,
    sideswiping an opponent into a barrier or the back of another
    vehicle) to win.  In some cases, the Rivals will use dirty
    tactics to stay ahead of you.  In many cases as you progress
    through the game, you will NEED to use dirty tactics to gain
    and retain the lead.
    
    Tokyo Extreme Racer Zero is very richly done in terms of the
    visuals.  It is quite easy to get lost in the realism of the
    game, from the traffic to the airplanes taking off and
    landing overhead.  However, DO NOT TAKE YOUR EYES OFF THE
    ROAD, ESPECIALLY IN A BATTLE!!!!!
    
    The distant lights along the highway are rather blurry and
    can easily trick you as you race along at top speed,
    especially in the long, straight sections of highway out
    west.  It does help a little to look as far ahead as possible
    and note the upcoming corners by the positioning of the
    streetlamps, but the red taillights are often too blurry
    until you are practically in another vehicle's back bumper.
    
    One of the best sections to master is Yaesu.  The lower,
    tunnel section of Yaesu is relatively straight compared to
    the upper, open-air section.  However, the open-air section
    has a number of tight, two-lane, right-angle corners.
    Mastering Yaesu will definitely work to your advantage in
    most cases, as Rivals rarely ever go through Yaesu willingly
    and generally cannot keep up through its nasty corners.
    Further, due to the narrowness of the highway in Yaesu
    compared with the tight corners, it will be difficult for a
    Rival to pass you if you are in the lead; of course, if you
    are trailing the Rival, YOU will have difficulty passing.
    Also, Wanderers will occasionally sit at one of the Yaesu on-
    ramps and wait for you; look for the stationary blue dot on
    the map to find these Wanderers.
    
    The western highways are generally conducive to high-speed
    runs, due to long straightaways, multiple and wider lanes
    (especially in the tunnels), and generally thinner traffic.
    However, at the extremely high top-end speeds which are
    usually achieved in this area, even a light brushing with a
    barrier or another vehicle can reduce your speed just enough
    for you to lose your lead and/or lose all chance of catching
    your opponent.
    
    As you unlock new courses, go to Free Run to explore, and use
    Time Attack to hone your top-speed skills in these newly-
    opened areas.  For the full-circuit Time Attack challenge,
    allow at least 30 minutes, especially with a slow Class C
    car.
    
    Whenever you encounter and challenge a Wanderer, he/she will
    often turn you down, and that can get to be QUITE
    frustrating.  The Wanderers will come to challenge you on
    their own schedule.  For a few potential tips, see the e-mail
    I received from J.D., included in the INPUT FROM OTHERS
    section above.  For specific information on each of the
    Wanderers, see "Wanderer's Requirement(s) FAQ" - translated
    and written by HIKARU2001, Wataru, and Reiko - on GameFAQs
    (and likely also posted elsewhere).
    
    Be careful when buying parts if you are concerned about
    getting the most horsepower for your money.  I happened to
    notice that the most expensive muffler, for example, does NOT
    always give the best horsepower.  For example, if there are
    six mufflers to choose from, the fourth muffler may give a
    better horsepower rating than the sixth and most expensive
    muffler.  In this regard, this game is unlike most racing
    games which include buying parts for upgrades.  Just
    something to keep in mind, especially if you find yourself
    racing a car with very similar set-up and abilities to yours.
    
    There ARE cops in this game, located in eight different areas
    of the highway circuit (once all highways are opened).  Never
    did I actually see the police car; I only heard the sirens as
    I sped by a highway on-ramp (where the police were probably
    hiding).  You don't actually get pulled over; instead, when
    you return to garage to end the night, you are presented with
    the "Over Speed Penalty!!" screen, which lists the
    infractions and fines incurred in the session, and the
    appropriate amount is then deducted from your total remaining
    money.  This is so impersonal, and I was REALLY hoping to be
    arrested by Miyuki and Natsumi!!!!!
    
    Specific to Speed King, expect to be extremely frustrated for
    a while - perhaps even several days.  The best thing to do is
    to keep racing Rivals you have already beaten (if necessary)
    to gain enough money to sell off all but your cheapest Class
    C car (you must always have at least one car in your garage)
    to buy a powerful Class A car, plus the parts necessary to
    tune it for the section(s) which best suit your driving
    style.  Then go back to the highways, race and beat a Rival
    again, and try to end that race in an area where you believe
    you will have the best chance of success as Speed King
    challenges you once again.
    
    Periodically (perhaps every 20-30 minutes) save your game
    (System menu), just in case the electricity goes out, little
    siblings squirt the console with a water gun, etc.  Also, as
    you return to the garage, look to the top of the report
    screen to see if you have achieved new parts or new levels of
    parts (by beating specific Rivals) and if so, seriously
    consider acquiring some upgrades before returning to the
    highways.
    
    ====================================
    
    MY CARS
    These are the cars and settings I have used in the game.
    
    My first car: TYPE-CE9A (Class A, 4WD, 2714lbs, 490HP,
          1997cc)*
       Initial Cost: $14,750
       Steer: +11
       Acceleration: +12
       Braking: +11
       Brake Balance: +7 (biased to the rear)
       Ride Height: -15 front AND rear (lowest possible setting)
       Gear Ratio: Default, except Final set to 2.78
       Spring Rate: -8 front and rear
       Damper: +4 front AND rear
       Turbo Boost: 1.40 (fairly high)
    
    My second car (Class A, acquired after opening the long
          western sections of highway): TYPE-CP9A6M (4WD,
          2797lbs, 561HP, 1997cc)*
       Initial Cost: $28,480
       Steer: +11
       Acceleration: +12
       Braking: +12
       Brake Balance: +8 (biased to the rear)
       Ride Height: -15 front AND rear (lowest possible setting)
       Gear Ratio: Default
       Spring Rate: +5 front, +6 rear
       Damper: -7 front AND rear
       Turbo Boost: 1.39 (fairly high)
    
    My third car (Class A, acquired specifically to beat Speed
          King): TYPE-RPT7 (MR, 2764lbs, 446HP, 3560cc)**
       Initial Cost: $
       Steer: +7
       Acceleration: +12
       Braking: +14
       Brake Balance: +8 (biased to the rear)
       Ride Height: N/A
       Gear Ratio:
          1st  : 3.71
          2nd  : 2.61
          3rd  : 1.93
          4th  : 1.58
          5th  : 1.28
          6th  : 0.96
          Final: 3.03
       Spring Rate: N/A
       Damper: N/A
       Turbo Boost: N/A
    
    My current car (Class A, the Speed King car): TYPE-R34RKK
          (4WD, 3230lbs, 788HP, 2876cc)*
       Initial Cost: $525,500
       Steer: +7
       Acceleration: +12
       Braking: +13
       Brake Balance: +7 (biased to the rear)
       Ride Height: -15 front AND rear (lowest possible setting)
       Gear Ratio:
          1st  : 4.96
          2nd  : 3.29
          3rd  : 2.28
          4th  : 1.87
          5th  : 1.45
          6th  : 1.06
          Final: 2.71
       Spring Rate: +10 front, +11 rear
       Damper: -12 front AND rear
       Turbo Boost: 1.31 (fairly high)
    
    *  Weight, horsepower, and cc based on highest possible
       levels of available parts (except mufflers, where highest
       possible horsepower muffler was selected).
    
    ** Weight, horsepower, and cc based on the following parts:
       Engine Level 5; Muffler and Air Cleaner Level 6;
       Transmission Level 3; Clutch and Differential Level 4; and
       Tires, Brakes, and Wheels Level 8.  Also, after several
       days of frustration trying to beat Speed King with a
       number of other cars, I was successful beating Speed King
       the first time I tried with this car.
    
    ====================================
    
    WISH LIST
    This is what I would like to see added to future incarnations
    of the game:
    
    MUCH more traffic on the opposite side of the highway.  It is
    rather rare to see a vehicle on the other side of the median
    barrier, which is very unrealistic, even in the middle of the
    night.  While there is usually a significant difference in
    elevation between the two directions of traffic, there are a
    few areas where the two directions of traffic are at the same
    elevation (especially on the western highways), so there
    really SHOULD be more traffic on the other side of the
    highway.
    
    More vehicle types please!!!  Add some motorcycles, emergency
    vehicles, tour busses, etc.
    
    This is only a minor issue, but allowing racing on more
    highways and possibly even some major streets would be a
    great addition to the game.  As it is, despite the massive
    'world' of Tokyo Extreme Racer Zero, the loading times are
    insanely fast (perhaps Genki could teach something to the
    developers of CART Fury!?!?!), so the addition of more race-
    able territory would not greatly unbalance the loading times,
    and definitely WOULD add to the gameplay.
    
    ====================================
    
    CONTACT
    For rants, raves, etc., contact me at FEATHER7@IX.NETCOM.COM;
    also, if you have enjoyed this guide and feel that it has
    been helpful to you, I would certainly appreciate a small
    donation via PayPal (http://www.paypal.com/) using the above
    e-mail address.  However, due to extremely limited time, I am
    relinquishing any further work on this guide to focus on the
    newly-released F1 games, and on classwork.
    
    To find the latest version of this and all my other PSX/PS2
    game guides, visit FeatherGuides at
    http://www.angelcities.com/members/feathersites/
    
    ====================================
    

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