===============================================
         Xenosaga(TM): Episode I 
         Der Wille zur Macht
         Drill Game Assistance Guide 
         Author: FlyBri2201  
         email: bjbradach@yahoo.com
         ===============================================

Version 1.0

------------------------
Copyright/Trademark Info
------------------------

Xenosaga(TM) EPISODE I Der Wille zur Macht & Copyright 2001 NAMCO LTD.

This guide is copyright 2003 Brian Bradach (flybri2201).  Reproduction of this
guide without consent of the author is strictly prohibited under federal 
copyright laws.

This guide has been released exclusively to GameFAQs and Mehl's Spoiler Free
Walkthrough guide to Xenosaga(TM).  If any unauthorized reproduction of this
guide is recognized, please let the author know at the above email address.


Guide History 1.0 Original


--------
Contents
--------
1. Introduction

2. Important Information

3. Drill game basics

4. Drill Equpiment Set-up and controlling the camera

5. The two move system for people who are WINNERS
  5.a. The Accurate Strut Move
  5.b. The Accurate Bit Move

6.The Missions
  6.a. Mission 1
  6.b. Mission 2
  6.c. Mission 3
  6.d. Mission 4

7.'Free' Game Mode
  7.a. Getting Drill Keys
  7.b. Using Drill Keys

8. FAQ'S

9. Credits


---------------
1. Introduction
---------------

This is my second contribution to GameFAQs, and I have again chosen to write 
about Xenosaga(TM).  More specifically, I will try to explain how to become as 
accurate as possible with the drill, saving you money in both the mission and 
"free" modes.  To be successful at this mini-game, you do need to have quick 
fingers, but I don't think all of you adept video game players are lacking 
there.  So read up and good luck!

p.s. you are hereby begged to only laugh at intentional humor contained within


------------------------
2. Important information
------------------------

Ok, in order to play the drill game, you need to have the drill passport.  Do 
not worry, you receive the drill passport early on in the game, while aboard 
the Woglinde.  It is a reward for using the drill.  However you will not be 
able to use the passport or any other passport until the EVS becomes available 
at save points.  You will know it is an EVS point, because it will have a blue 
EVS set on top of a normal save point.  When you are at an EVS point SAVE.
Now, go to your menu and select the drill passport.  You will find it in the 
key item list(press R1 when looking at your normal items to look at your key 
items). Eventually, I may add an item list of every single worthless item you 
can win in the drill game, but for now I will just focus on strategy and how to 
win the important items.  Then, when you get to be good at drilling, you can 
break each of the individual little boxes to find what is in each of them.  As 
they say, it's your quarter.  Note, you only get 5 tries at the drill game per
visit, so when they cut you off, leave and reenter.  There is no such thing as
free mode in drilling... I call it "free" mode.  You will learn why.


--------------------
3. Drill game basics
--------------------

When you use the drill passport at an EVS save point, you will find yourself in
a game show looking room.  This is different than the other passport 
mini-games. You can actually control your character here instead of just 
dealing with an interactive menu.  

Your first order of business should be to introduce yourself to Hollyanna and 
Holgar, the co-hosts of the drilling game.  Yes this game is a bit on the corny
side, but as they will tell you, they have a real passion for drilling(decide 
for yourself whether or not they are pathetic losers).  Whatever, we're just 
here for the items, but until you get them you will just have to fake a passion
for drilling.  They will explain the basics of drilling to you. It is basically
like any crane game you have seen in an arcade or supermarket.  Press the 
button until you want the claw to stop going forward, and then press the button
again until you want the claw to stop moving to the right.  The only difference
is in this game, we're dealing with a drill that wrecks stuff, and you can 
change the camera angle you use to control the drill.  Sounds pretty easy 
doesn't it?  Well, to that I can say yes and no.  It can take some getting used
to, but once you get the hang of things, it can be relatively easy.


----------------------------------------------------
4. Drill Equpiment Set-up and controlling the camera
----------------------------------------------------

When you begin a drill game, your view will be from the perspective of someone
standing at ground level.  Change this view using R2 until you have the bird's
eye view.  Things should look something like this...

|| o
||   O
||  []
|| 0    []
||    o
||  o    o
\/------------

In this view, the || arranged vertically represents what I will call the drill
arm.  The - arranged horizontally represents the drill strut.  The \/ 
represents the drill bit resting in its initial position.  The various o, O, 
0, and []'s represent the debris you are trying to hit. Keep in mind that we
are talking about a 3 dimensional setup, which is why I like the bird's eye
view.  It keeps things nice and 2-dimensionally simple.  

Ok, now that you have some idea of how the intitial bird's eye view looks, I 
will now ask toy to rotate it using the left analog stick so things now look
like this...

<=============
|     0      o
| o     [] O
|   o
|     []
| o
|

I think you should be able to follow that rotation, it's merely rotated 90
degrees clockwise.  Our objective is going to be to hit debris on the floor
with the drill bit.  There will be two movements required in order to have your
drill bit end up over your desired target.  The first I will call the strut
move and the second I will call the bit move.  This system works very well for
the missions because you can do this accurately without changing camera angles
more than one time, which saves you plenty of time in the long run.  When you 
get comfortable with this set of moves, you will be able to do mission two 
flawlessly.  Thats right, in 9 fell swoops, you will be done with that mission.


-------------------------------------------------
5. The two move system for people who are WINNERS
-------------------------------------------------


 ----------------------------
 5.a. The Accurate Strut Move
 ----------------------------

In order to practice drilling you will want to practice in "free" mode.  'Free' 
mode has no time limit, so you have all day to thin about where you want to 
place your drill bit and what you may have done wrong.  You can also use your
time to become familiar with controlling the camera angle as well as getting
used to the general set-up of the game.  Once you have shelled out your 200G
in order to play "free" mode, you will be at a ground level viewpoint.  Change
this so things look sort of like what you see below.

<=============
|     0      o
| o     [] O
|   o
|     []
| o
|

There, that's better.  Now for the strut move.  This move is very simple, yet
tough to do accurately at first.  The reason why it is tough to do accurately 
is because of the camera angle.  But when you learn to understand the camera
angle you will become extremely accurate by using the strut as a guide.  To
learn the camera angle you need to look at the strut with respect to the beam
that runs between the strut and drill arm.  I will call this beam the support
beam.  In this beginning position, it looks like the strut is further to the
left than it actually is.  This is because of the camera's challenging
placement.  The place where the strut holding the drill bit will actually touch
the ground is along a line sticking out perpendicularly from the spot where the 
support beam meets the drill arm(the base of the drill arm).  As you can see
from this birds eye view the initial distance between the strut and base is 
quite significant, about 2 squares of the checkerboard floor.  You may ask why 
not just use the base of the support beam as a guide for knowing when to stop
the beam.  The reason is because the base of the beam does not 'touch' the 
squares of the checkerboard floor, making it a difficult tool to use to judge
when to stop moving the strut.  The strut does 'touch' the checkerboard squares
in this bird's eye view, which is why I have found it to be an extremely
reliable tool for judging when to stop holding the square button during the 
strut move.  I would say I am about twice as accurate using the strut as a 
as I am when using the beam as a guide.

As I said before, the strut appears to be about 2 checker blocks to the left of
where it will actually land.  You can see that difference when comparing the
location of the strut to the base of the beam.  I am going to illustrate this 
using an adaptation of the above diagram....

==<===========
|     0      o
| o     [] O
|   o
|     []
| o
|

The < represents where the drill bit would actually touch the floor if you kept
the strut in the initial position.  This is assuming that one = equals one 
square on the floor.  Now try something for me, and pay close attention to the 
distance between the strut and the base of the beam.  Hold down the square 
button, and do not release it until the strut automatically stops.  See how the
distance between the strut and base of the beam closes at the strut moves 
towards the right?  In the middle, the apparent location of the strut and the 
location of the bast of the support beam are one and the same.  This is the 
easiest place to hit stationary objects in the entire drill game.  Below is a 
representation of the place the bit would touch the ground with respect to the
strut.  Yes, no difference at all...

======<=======
      |      o
  o   | [] O
    o |
      |]
  o   |
      |

As the strut continues towards the right, the gap between the base of the beam
and the strut begins to widen again.  The size of the gap on this side of the 
middle of the floor is proportional to what it was on the other side.  It is 
just opposite now.  For example, when the strut is completely to the right, the
distance to the base of the support beam from the apparent location of the 
strut is two squares of the floor to the left as seen below...

===========<==
      0      |
  o     [] O |
    o        |
      []     |
  o          |
             |

Where the < represents where the drill bit would actually touch the ground. 
Once again, one = equals one square of the floor.  If you move the strut
through the entire length of the drill arm a few times, you will begin to see 
that to hit an object about 1/4 of the way down the drill arm, you will need to
stop the strut about 1 block to the left of that object you want to hit, as I 
will show below...

====<=========
   |  0      
  o|    [] O 
   |o        
   |  []     
  o|         
   |         

Trust me, as you run through this a couple of times you will be able to plan 
out the spot of a certain square you want to stop the strut on in order for
your drill bit to be lined up, halfway to hitting your target.  Now take a 
couple of runs to get the timing of stopping the strut excatly in the spot you 
marked to stop it in.  That shouldn't take very long.  If you saved your game
before starting the drill game, you can run through 'free' mode a few times
as practice without worrying about the 200G you're spending for each game.  
When you are done practicing, or out of money, just soft reset and go at it 
again.  Now it is time for the second move of the drill game, the bit move.


 --------------------------
 5.b. The Accurate Bit Move
 --------------------------

Ok, I will begin by saying this move is more challenging than the strut move 
in some ways.  The Bit Move is also performed by holding down the square button
until you wish to stop the drill bit moving downward along the strut.  As soon
as you release the square button, the strut and srill attached to it will 
begin descending towards the ground.  After it hits the ground it will come 
back up and everything will return to the initial position.  Being accurate
with the bit move involves knowing the difference between where the bit appears
to be over the floor, and where it will actually touch down on the floor.  With 
the drill bit you begin with, from where it begins on the strut to about 1/3 of
the way down the strut if you stop the bit directly on or parallel
to the object you are going for, you should at least graze it enough to destroy
it.  From the 1/3 to 2/3 point you should try to go about a square's distance 
further down the strut than the object you are going for.  As the drill reaches
the end of the strut, where it looks like it will drop, and where it will
actually touch the floor are about two squares apart.  I will now demonstrate
in a couple of diagrams, where the drill appears to be and where it will 
actually touch.  These are estimates just to give you an idea not specifics.
The < is where the drill bit appears to be at the end of the bit move and the x
is where the bit will actually touch the floor.  One I represents one square on
the floor.  Not to scale, just intended to show you how many squares off the 
bit will be from where it appears to be in different situations.

==============
   <x 0      
  o|    [] O 
   |o        
   |  []     
  o|         
   |        

or

==============
      0      |
  o     [] O |
    o        |
      []   X |
  o          |
             <

or

==============
      |      
  o   | [] O 
    o X      
      <]    
  o   |      
      |      


If you understand these three diagrams, then you are good to go.  You just 
will need to get good at timing when to let go of the square button and you 
will be successful.  I will now talk about missions, since mission two is a 
perfect application of how to use this two move process to your advantage.


--------------
6.The Missions
--------------


 --------------
 6.a. Mission 1
 --------------

This mission can wait until you do mission two.  When you can do mission two
without problems, mission one will be extremely easy.  All I will say about 
mission 1 is that there are many big boxes that touch each other.  There are
more boxes than you can destroy individually, so you need to destroy 2 boxes
at a time.  To do so, you just need to hit the boxes where they meet, and voila
you got a 2 for 1.  You actually need to do a 2 for 1 about 4-5 times to have 
success with in thetime limit of 80 seconds.  Aim for 5 or more 2 for 1's in 
order to cover for any errors you might make.  If you succeed you will be 
awarded a Speed Stim DX the first time and generic card packs thereafter.
If you lose you get a Med Kit, whoopty doo da.


 --------------
 6.b. Mission 2
 --------------
In this mission you have 120 seconds to destroy 9 spaced out tiny canisters.
With some accuracy, this mission will be a cinch.  The pattern of distribution
of the canister is as follows... not exactly to scale.  The canisters fall on a
grid that is 13 wide x 10 tall.  Imaging the birds eye view explained above, 
the dots represent where the canisters fall on the square grid floor.  

  1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0 1 2 3 
  _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
1|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|
2|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|
3|_|_|_|_|.|_|_|_|_|_|.|_|_|   . represents canisters
4|_|_|_|_|_|_|.|_|.|_|_|_|_|
5|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|.|_|_|_|_|_|
6|_|_|_|_|_|_|.|_|.|_|_|_|_|
7|_|_|_|_|.|_|_|_|_|_|.|_|_|
8|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|
9|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|
0|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|

Now I have added commas to represent where you want the drill bit to be placed
prior to it dropping.  This is where the bit should be centered at the end of
the two move process listed above.  I did not place a comma for the canisters
in row four, because the bit needs to travel only one half square down the
strut past the canisters during the bit move for those two canisters.  I hope 
this makes sense.


             Column
    1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0 1 2 3 
  0 _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
  1|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|Note, for the two canisters in row 4,
  2|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|you can place the strut directly over
R 3|_|_|_|,|.|_|_|_|_|_|.|,|_|the canisters and then move the drill 
O 4|_|_|_|_|_|_|.|_|.|_|_|_|_|bit down so it is centered about one
W 5|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|,|_|_|_|_|_|half of a square beneath the canisters.
  6|_|_|_|_|_|_|.|_|.|_|_|_|_|One square is too much and right on top 
  7|_|_|_|_|.|_|,|_|,|_|.|_|_|of the canisters is not enough.
  8|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|
  9|_|_|_|,|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|,|_|  . represents canisters
  0|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|  , represents bit location necessary to hit a
                                  canister

The commas are placed relative to the periods, that is if you stop the drill 
one grid to the left of column 5 row 3, you will hit the canister in column 5
row 3.  If you follow this relative grid, you should be able to do well in 
mission 2.  

The prize for success is a yamato belt, which boosts HP by 15 percent.  The
prize for repeated success and failure match those given for mission 1. Oh 
well.


----
NOTE
----
The following missions do not appear until a certain point in the game.  All
I will say is keep your eyes open for a bunny, it will be obvious.

--------
END NOTE
--------


 --------------
 6.c. Mission 3
 --------------

Apply the strategy for mission 2 to this mission.  You need to hit 5 bunnies
that travel back and forth within a set pattern.  If you get all 5 within 90
seconds you are a winner.  The keu is to know where your drill will end up, a 
key concept learned in mission 2 strategy, and then you need to time it so 
the bit hits the ground when or slightly before the bunny gets there.  Slightly
before is ok, because if the bunny rins into the bit while it is still on the 
ground, it will still take it out.  Fairly easy mission if you are good at 
mission 2.  Success brings the Hunter goggles, which boost critical hit rate 5
percent I think.  Repeat winner and the loser prize are the same as mission 1.


 --------------
 6.d. Mission 4
 --------------

Not much strategy here, just drop the dril bit and let the sole bunny run into
it.  The bunny's pattern is random and he burns rubber, so don't bother trying
to lead the bunny. I just dropped the bit in the middle, and on the first 
attempt at this mission I succeeded with about 30 seconds left out of an 
original 50 seconds.  If you don't succeed at first, tough luck, try again.  
You get a swimsuit for your efforts, if they were successful that is.  
Otherwise you know the drill.... med kit.  Card pack 1 once again for repeat 
winners.

Your prize for doing all the missions is a good one.  I won't spoil, but let's 
just say it makes your life MUCH easier while drilling.


------------------
7.'Free' Game Mode
------------------

 -----------------------
 7.a. Getting Drill Keys
 -----------------------

Once again the "free" game is monetarily about as free as the missions... 200G
but it is free in the fact that you have all day to drop the drill bit.  You
get 5 attempts to smash the various debris to peices using the same drill
moves as though you do in the missions.  Square and then square.  Not tough.
If you waited to do 'free' game mode until after doing the first two missions, 
you will find this mode to be a breeze.  The only targets worth going for are
clear balls with little bunnies of varying colors trapped inside.  These are 
only debris that I ever got drill keys from.  You want drill keys.  Hemlock
is not terrible either, it reduces your hp to 1, but trust me, there are times
when that is a good thing.  Cough...Jr...cough...bravesoul...cough...hemlock...
cough...safety lock...cough...angelic requiem/uber damage to all muahahaha...
sorry i digress... hemlock has its uses.  If you are hard up for cash, aim for 
the miniscule round canisters like in mission 2, the purple ones have hooked me
up with some good G.

 ---------------------
 7.b. Using Drill Keys
 ---------------------

Whats behind door number one Monty?  Well, with 5 drill keys found in the
'free' game, who cares, you can have them all.  If you want to know what is 
behind each door they go something like this... left to right  To open the 
doors, first get a drill kei, and then open the door of choice like any other.

D Theif ring - rare item drop up 10 percent
R Battle Mask - Ups Hi tech critical hit rate
I Life Stone - Doubles healing effect on those wearing it
L Fast Circuit 25 - AGWS speed up 25 percent
L Guard Recovery - AGWS recover 10 percent FHP when guarding

Go with what you want.  It's not tough to get 5 drill keys.


--------
8. FAQ's
--------
Q- What does "I love driller" mean?

A- Heh, well.... you see it's quite simple... heh.... um... I have no idea.
It is something someone named Holgar would put up in neon lights in order to
defy the laws of English.

Q- Do you spend a lot of time playing the drilling game?

A- Honestly?... No... I think it's pretty boring, but the items gained by doing
the missions and "free" mode are decent.  I guess I just don't have the passion
for drilling.  At least in this context.  

Q- Why did you write this guide then?

A- I dunno, to help others?  I have benefitted from GameFAQ's for some time 
now, so I decided to do something to repay the favor.  If my guides help one 
individual, it's worth it.  If you reading this have not written a FAQ and
have some desire to do so, you should...it is sooo easy.  I thought it would
involve html and stuff I don't get, but all you need is Notepad and a 
semi-functional brain.  Contributions from people like you are the lifeblood of
this website.  Feeling motivated now?  Oh well, I tried.... ;)

Q- Your guide makes no sense to me.  I hate you.

A- Hey, that's not a question... o well... I try to make my guides as thorough
as possible while trying to keep them easy to follow.  If you have ANY 
questions I will do my utmost to answer them.  If the questions are frequent, I 
will add them to this section hehe Frequent....  or else I will update the 
guide...  my email address can be found on the top of this page...

Q-Are you addicted to using ...'s ?

A-Yes, it's a sensitive subject.

----------
9. Credits
----------
Thank you notepad(TM) for making this guide possible.


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