Yakuza 4 Mahjong Guide - Ver. 1.01 - 12 April 2011 - by Barticle at hotmail.com

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   01 INTRODUCTION              d88P  Y88b  888P"   Y8P      888      "Y88P" 
   02 UNLOCKING THE MINIGAME    888    888                   888
   03 PLAY MODES                888        888  888 888  .d88888  .d88b. 
      o Gambling                888        888  888 888 d88" 888 d8P  Y8b
      o Tournament              888  88888 888  888 888 888  888 88888888
      o Mahjong Menu            888    888 Y88b 888 888 Y88b 888 Y8b.    
   04 MAHJONG TILES             Y88b  d88P  "Y88888 888  "Y88888  "Y8888 
      o The Set                  "Y8888P 8  
      o Dots                                  08 SCORE CALCULATION
      o Bamboo                                   o Points and Minipoints
      o Characters                               o Limits
      o Winds                                    o Draws and Honba
      o Dragons                                  o Uma
   05 WINDS AND TURN OF PLAY                  09 CONTROLS
   06 MAHJONG RULES                           10 DISPLAY
      o The Basics                               o The Table
      o Calling Pung and Calling Chow            o The Score-Sheet
      o Declaring Mahjong: Tsumo and Ron      11 TROPHY
      o Declaring Riichi                      12 COMPLETION
      o Scoring Elements and Fan              13 STRATEGY
      o Limit Hands                           14 FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
      o Double Limit Hands                    15 GLOSSARY
      o Dora Bonuses                          16 CONTACT 
   07 TABLE RULES                             17 THANKS
.------------------------------------------------------------------------------.
| Although it's no substitute for reading the whole document (yes, I know it's |
| looong!), I've now added a rough quickstart guide. It's in Section 12 below. |
'------------------------------------------------------------------------------'
------< INTRODUCTION >-------------------------------------------- [Section 01]

The purpose of this guide is to tell you everything you need to know about the
traditional tabletop game Mahjong, specifically the modern Japanese rules and
the Mahjong minigame in the 2011 Playstation 3 video-game Yakuza 4 (the Euro/US
version of the 2010 Japanese original "Ryuu ga Gotoku 4").

In localizing RGG4 for western markets, the Sega team retained the original
Japanese voice-acting (phew!) but translated the text into English. The Mahjong
minigame in Yakuza 4 is therefore the first English-language Mahjong game for
the Playstation 3. I'm hoping it'll introduce a lot of new players on both sides
of the Atlantic to Japanese Mahjong (a.k.a. Riichi Mahjong).

The PS2 game Yakuza 2 has a lot to answer for - about two years ago it got me
into both playing Mahjong and writing guides for video-games. Now, after playing
hundreds of hours of Mahjong and producing twenty guides for GameFAQs, I've come
full circle (again!) and I'm writing another guide for the Mahjong minigame in a
Yakuza title. (Well, to be honest I won't be doing too much writing - most of
this will have been copied from my Yakuza 3 guide!* I will take this opportunity
to give the content an overdue overhaul where necessary though.)

Mahjong has a lot of rules and specialist vocabulary so it's difficult to
describe one aspect without making reference to others which I haven't yet
explained but I've done my best to make everything clear. Where a new term is
defined it is given in CAPS for easy reference. There is also a basic glossary
near the end of the guide (Section 15).

Primarily I'll be using the translated English terminology used in Yakuza 4 but
I will add some Japanese terms where I think it'll aid further study. If you
want to know more then check out my complete guide to the terminology and rules
of Japanese Mahjong. It's available as a 74-page, illustrated, linked PDF and
can be accessed from the United States Professional Mahjong League website.

  http://www.uspml.com/site/downloads.htm  (Barticle's Japanese Mahjong Guide)

If you want to discuss Japanese Mahjong then join the international community of
enthusiasts on Reach Mahjong's English forums. Hope to see you there. :)

                    http://www.reachmahjong.com/en/forum

If you're enjoying Mahjong then think about importing a proper Japanese Mahjong
game. I have guides for several PS3 and DS titles on this site. The best games
for both formats are arguably the Mahjong Fight Club ones, although if you want
to play against real people online on the PS3 you'll need to go with Janline-R.

This guide is designed to be viewed using a monospaced (non-proportional or
fixed-width) font, preferably Courier New. Some sections of the document will
display incorrectly if you are using a proportional font like Times New Roman.

*I should note that what I call my "Yakuza 3" Mahjong minigame guide was written
specifically to support the original Japanese version, "Ryuu ga Gotoku 3". Sega
made a number of cuts when producing Yakuza 3 for the West, removing around 20
substories and four minigames including Mahjong. :6

------< UNLOCKING THE MINIGAME >---------------------------------- [Section 02]

As veterans of the Yakuza series will know, you never have full access to the
map/s at the start of the story. You'll need to play through the story a little
before you're given freedom to explore the game world. In this case you'll have
to progress to the start of Chapter 2. 

Since Yakuza 4 is effectively the first English-language Mahjong game for the
PS3 I'm assuming there might be some folks who buy the game especially for the
Mahjong minigame. I'm writing up this mini-walkthrough just for you :) It won't
take long - I've done a speed-run and got there in under fifteen minutes. That
involves skipping all the story and conversations though so if you play properly
it'll take somewhat longer.

After the massive game data install (another 5 gigs, thank you Sega!) you'll see
the main menu. If you just want to unlock the Mahjong then you'll probably want
to visit the Options menu and change Skip Cutscenes to "On" - this will allow
you to bypass most storytelling videos by pressing the Start button.

Then pick the top option from the main menu to begin your New Game and you will
be prompted to select your difficulty. If you just want to play Mahjong (and
you're not concerned about PSN Trophies) you might as well set this to Easy.
This will also give you sufficient money to start both the Mahjong play modes.
After setting the diff the story begins.*

In the previous games in the series you play only as Kazuma Kiryuu* but in a
bold move Sega have introduced three more playable characters. At the beginning
of the game you play as Shun Akiyama - the guy in the striped burgundy jacket.

Yakuza 4 is set in Kamurochou which is based on Tokyo's Kabukichou entertainment
district in Shinjuku, home to many bars, restaurants and hostess clubs. If you
press the Start button to access the pause menu you'll see a map. Pick Map from
the menu and you can use the trigger buttons (L2 or R2) to zoom in. Those little
red signs show that you're currently restricted to a very small portion of the
map but don't worry - they'll be gone soon.

Unpause the game and you should have a small circular minimap in the bottom-left
corner of the screen. If not, try pressing L3 (the left stick) which will cycle
through three map settings: normal, off and zoom. You need to head north towards
the little magenta arrow marker. The blue "searchlight" shows which direction
Akiyama is currently facing.

You won't get far before you bump into the "Mysterious Old Man" (Komaki). Click
X to progress through the conversation and you can be on your way. Green arrows
above pedestrians give you the opportunity to eavesdrop on people talking but
you can ignore them. Blue arrows indicate NPCs that will give you info about
the game (and 500XP). Keep heading north, kink right and up into Theatre Square.

You'll be accosted by a trio of Street Punks there. It must be time for your
combat tutorial! You need to complete this before you can progress but it's
pretty simple and the brawling in the Yakuza games is always fun. Use the left
stick to approach an enemy and the right stick to change the view if required.
You'll need to complete the following objectives in order:

o repeatedly press Square to hit your opponents (x10)

o use a basic combo: press Square followed immediately by Triangle (x5)

o press Circle to grab then press Circle to throw or Triangle/Square to hit (x5)

o press Circle to pick up a weapon (e.g. bicycle or traffic cone) then press
  Circle to throw it or Triangle/Square to deliver a blow (x5)

o dispatch the remaining foes using the techniques you've learnt  

Before you continue, check out the phonebooth with the big blue "S" over it -
you can use these to save your game progress (and access your item stash).

Continue northwards and once you reach the M Store konbini (convenience store)
you'll trigger a looong cut-scene with Kido and Kanemura. If you set the option
previously you'll be able to skip this by pressing Start.

After that you'll find yourself in the north-east corner of the map but again
you have barriers to steer you in the right direction. Head west and you'll be
reunited with your buddies from Theatre Square. Yup, combat training part 2!

o hold R1 to lock onto an opponent then move left or right to circle them (x5)

o hold L1 to block an incoming attack (x3)

o press X to "quickstep" (x3) - you can combine this with R1 and movement

o attack opponents to fill the HEAT gauge under your health bar (x1)

o grab either an opponent or a weapon (Circle button) then press Triangle to
  perform a special attack using your HEAT (x3); use standard attacks and throws
  to replenish your HEAT gauge if required

o dispatch the remaining foes using the techniques you've learnt

Now you can head south to Club Elnard. Speak to the doorman to gain access and
talk to those Ueno boys inside. This initiates a one-on-one fight against Ihara.
He's pretty easy. Use R1 to lock onto him then spam the Square button to land
hit strings and fill your HEAT. There are also loads of pieces of furniture you
can use as weapons. If you perform a HEAT action with one you will be able to
follow-up by hammering square when prompted. There will also be a quick-time
event (QTE) sequence during the fight where you have to press the buttons shown
on screen against a time limit. Make sure you press the correct ones! Also you
will be able to pick up a Staminan X during the fight - you can use this from
the Items menu if you need to replenish your HEAT and health.

After the fight comes a cut-scene with Arai and a phone call, then you need to
return to your office on Tenkaichi Street in the opposite corner of the map so
you have to cross Kamurochou to get there but those pesky barriers will prevent
you from straying too far from the path! If you took any damage in the Ihara
fight you can stop off at Matsuya at the top of Tenkaichi to buy something to
eat (this will restore your health).

Another cut-scene follows, Chapter 1 ends, Chapter 2 begins, another cut-scene
and a phone call. The game prompts you to return to the office (to continue the
story) but the barriers are gone so you have freedom to explore the map now!

Your starting point is actually very close to the Mahjong parlour but before you
go there you should visit the green phonebooth immediately to your left outside
the Poppo Mart store on the main road. You can save there so next time you play
the game you can reload that save and you'll start in the same place.

Now to get to the parlour just head north up the side-road to the right of Poppo
Mart, turn into the first alley on the left and look for the red and green signs
on the right which mark the staircase up to Orchid Palace Mahjong.** The parlour
location is marked in purple on your map and it's listed in the directory too -
from the pause menu pick Map, press Triangle for a list, scroll down and press X
for a temporary map marker.

The game doesn't track any stats for Mahjong play aside from your highest score
but if you want to preserve your progress (points total and tournament standing)
you'll need to return to the phonebooth to save after playing the minigame.

One last point - watch out for shady characters lurking in the city streets. If
they catch you it'll initiate a random fight.

*I'm writing this guide to support the Euro/US game so I'll give people's names
in the format used there. In Japan the family name (surname) is written first
but this is usually reversed in the West, so for example Kiryuu Kazuma becomes
Kazuma Kiryuu. His family name is Kiryuu but it's quite usual in Japan to refer
to someone using their surname instead of their given name.

**The green signs outside the entrance give the name of the parlour in three big
red kanji - they say Roku Ran Sou which means "six-orchid manor". The two white
kanji at the top of the sign say Jansou which means "mahjong parlour" and the
text at the bottom says 2F Noboru which means "go up to the 2nd floor". The
three dice shown would indicate the monetary rate and Uma used at the parlour.

------< PLAY MODES >---------------------------------------------- [Section 03]

As in the previous instalment, there are two different ways of playing Mahjong
in Yakuza 4, but since there's only one city/parlour this time you can access
both of them at the Orchid Palace. I'm calling them "Gambling" and "Tournament".

= Gambling =

There are three tables* being used inside the parlour, each with a magic text
label floating over it indicating Easy, Normal and Hard difficulty.

Just like gambling at a casino, you'll need to change some of your money before
you play. Instead of using circular poker chips, Mahjong points are counted with
white plastic SCORING-STICKS marked with dots to indicate their value.

    |   |              |   |             |   |             |   |
    | o | black dot    |   |             |   |             |   |
    | . |              |   |             |   |             |. .|
    |. .|              |. .|             |   |             |. .|
    | o | red dots     | o | red dots    | o | red dot     |. .| black dots
    |. .|              |. .|             |   |             |. .|
    | . |              |   |             |   |             |   |
    | o | black dot    |   |             |   |             |   |
    |   |              |   |             |   |             |   |

   10,000 pts         5,000 pts         1,000 pts         100 pts

(You don't need to recognise those but since I'd already prepared the ASCII art
for one of my Mahjong Fight Club guides I thought I'd "stick" it in!)

All four players always start each match with 25,000 points** so you'll need to
buy some before your first game. You can get these from the guy standing at the
reception desk. You can buy either 10k, 25k or 100k points and the "exchange
rate" is one point per Yen so it'll cost you 25,000 Yen in order to buy enough
points to play. Also you should note that these Mahjong points are different to
the ones you use in the other gambling games elsewhere in Kamurochou.

You can see how many Mahjong points you currently possess by going to the Items
inventory from the pause menu then pressing R1 to view the "valuables". After
buying some points you should see an item that consists of a pile of several
Scoring-Sticks. When you highlight that item your points total will be shown in
the text description at the bottom of the screen.

Once you have your points you can choose a table at which to play and talk to
the person there to start a game. You'll then see the "Mahjong menu" which is
explained below.

If you have more than 25,000 pts at the end of a game you can go straight into
another one if you like. If you have less than 25k however you'll need to buy
some more credit before your next match.

If you're new to Mahjong this could be an expensive way to learn so check out
the Tournament play option below which requires a larger initial investment but
it's a one-off payment so you can play for free after registration.

If you find yourself with an excess of Scoring-Sticks you can exchange them for
one or more of a dazzling array of prizes from the list below! You cannot "cash
out" and convert your points directly back into money like you would with chips
at an American or European casino; this is a consequence of the (real) gambling
laws in Japan. Instead you trade your points for prizes and if you want the
money you have to sell them at the pawnshop.***

                                |     Cost    | Resale Value
                ----------------+-------------+--------------
                 Platinum Plate | 150,000 pts |  150,000 Yen
                ----------------+-------------+--------------
                     Gold Plate | 100,000 pts |  100,000 Yen
                ----------------+-------------+--------------
                   Silver Plate |  13,000 pts |   13,000 Yen
                ----------------+-------------+--------------
                   Bronze Plate |   1,000 pts |    1,000 Yen
                ----------------+-------------+--------------
                     Iron Plate |     100 pts |      100 Yen

These all follow the same "exchange rate" so you can choose any of them, but it
makes sense to buy the most valuable plates you can afford since they will take
up less space in your inventory slots.

*If the Mahjong tables in the parlour look a little chunky it's because they
are automatic ones. Mechanisms inside the tables shuffle the tiles, build the
Wall and roll the dice for you at the start of each game. How cool is that?

**The most common starting score for Japanese Mahjong is 25,000 points although
other values like 20,000 pts, 27,000 pts or 30,000 pts are also used sometimes.
Often players will buy into a game with 30,000 pts but then pay the difference
into a jackpot called the OKA which goes to the winner, so for example if the
four players begin play with 25,000 pts they each pay 5,000 into the pot and the
person who wins the game receives an additional 20,000 pts (4 x 5,000).

***Rather conveniently the pawnshop is situated on the same back-alley as the
Mahjong parlour (a quite common arrangement for Pachinko parlours in Japan).

= Tournament =

The receptionist at the Mahjong parlour also gives you the option to register
for the Modern Mahjong* Cup Phoenix Match of the "Mahjong Ranking Tournament".

Registration for the tournament costs 50,000 Yen which may seem like a lot at
first but it's only twice what you pay for sufficient Scoring-Sticks to play on
the gambling tables. After paying the fifty grand, not only will you be able to
play all tournament matches for free but you can also win prizes with a combined
value of over 800 thousand Yen! (see below)

The difficulty you chose when you started playing Yakuza 4 will affect the
amount of money Akiyama has at the beginning of the story. If you chose Easy
you'll have 100,000 Yen or if you picked Normal you'll have 60,000 Yen. In
either case, as long as you don't blow it on something you'll have enough to pay
for the tournament registration. With Hard difficulty however you start with
only 30,000 Yen so you'll need to make a little more somewhere first. The other
three characters seem to start with less funds too.

(Here's a top tip submitted by XFRod on how to make some easy money early in the
story. Go into the Volcano pachinko parlour and speak to the guy standing just
inside the door. He'll ask you for the 777 Town password. Say you don't know it,
then check the magazine rack immediately to the right of him. It just happens to
contain the 777 Town magazine and you can read it to learn the password ("Golden
Manjiro"). Go back to the guy and tell him the password - you'll be required to
spell it in s-e-c-ti-on-s. As a reward he'll give you a Pure Gold Manjiro statue
which sells at the pawnshop for a very useful 120,000 Yen!)

After registration you can begin a tournament match at any time by speaking to
the parlour receptionist. There are no further fees to pay.

The tournament is played with a "ladder" format consisting of thirty ranked
players including yourself - you start on the bottom rung. Each time you play a
tournament ranking match you compete against the person immediately below you in
the ladder and the two people above you (unless you're currently in 30th, 2nd or
1st place, of course). After the game, the four of you will occupy the same four
positions in the ladder but you will now be listed in order of your placings in
the match.

So, for example, if you are in 16th position in the ladder you would always play
against the people in 17th, 15th and 14th. The player who comes first at the end
of the game will then become 14th, second will be 15th, third will be 16th and
fourth will be 17th. If you come first then you're promoted two places in the
ladder, if you come second you go up one, if third you hold position and if you
come last in the game then you drop a place. You're shown the revised ladder
listing at the end of every tournament game you play.

There are seven prizes available in the ladder (only one per customer) which you
win when you reach 25th, 20th, 15th, etc, as shown in the table below. You can
continue to play after you hit the top spot but there's no more prizes.

    Rank | Prize                     | Resale Value | Use
   ------+---------------------------+--------------+-----------------------
    25th | Italian Cologne           |    2,900 Yen | Hostess gift** / Sell
   ------+---------------------------+--------------+-----------------------
    20th | Silver Plate              |   13,000 Yen | Sell it for cash
   ------+---------------------------+--------------+-----------------------
    15th | Lucky Bracelet            |   11,000 Yen | Improves fight rewards
   ------+---------------------------+--------------+-----------------------
    10th | Caviar Skin Bag           |   75,000 Yen | Hostess gift** / Sell
   ------+---------------------------+--------------+-----------------------
     5th | Gold Plate                |  100,000 Yen | Sell it for cash
   ------+---------------------------+--------------+-----------------------
     3rd | Swiss Watch               |  142,500 Yen | Hostess gift** / Sell
   ------+---------------------------+--------------+-----------------------
     1st | Modern Mahjong Cup Trophy |  500,000 Yen | Sell it for cash

So after winning the seven prizes you have the option of selling them all to
give a 794,400 Yen profit from your initial registration fee. :D

Each of the four playable characters registers separately for the tournament so
it'll cost you 50,000 Yen each time but you have the potential to win the same
prizes with each person for a combined value of over 3 million Yen!

The tournament match registrations for each of the four characters are named
after the Shijin (Four Gods) of Chinese astrology: Azure Dragon, White Tiger,
[Crimson] Phoenix and [Black] Tortoise (you'll also see these names again in the
seventh "Gang Encounter" with Kiryuu). Since they register for separate ladders,
the four guys will never meet each other at the Mahjong table (which is a shame
as four is the ideal number) and yet their 29 opponents are always the same!

*Modern Mahjong (in Japanese 'Kindai Maajan') is a popular manga featuring a
number of Mahjong-based comic-strips and articles. They actually ran a special
feature to promote the launch of the original Japanese version of Yakuza 4 back
in March 2010. In the game you can find copies of the manga in the magazine rack
inside the convenience stores and in front of the parlour reception, although
you can only look at the cover and read a brief description.

You might also have spotted the Kindai Maajan poster on a partition inside the
Mahjong parlour which features Akagi - the main character from one of the most
famous Mahjong manga/anime - and the deranged grin of his nemesis, Washizu. 8D

**I tried these gifts on Rio. The handbag and watch both gave half a heart. She
accepted the (gents) cologne but it gave no hearts.

= Mahjong Menu =

Once you start a game you'll be shown the dark green background of the table
view and either four or five menu options as listed below.

When playing in the tournament you always come back to this menu after a game
but if you're playing gambling matches you only return to the menu if you have
sufficient points to play again, i.e. 25,000 pts or more.

1. Begin Game (or Begin Ranked Game in tournament play)

   You'll never guess what this does!

2. Quit Mahjong

   If you're playing at one of the three gambling tables you can quit out at
   this stage with no loss of points.

3. Change Rules

   This takes you to a sub-menu where you can select four settings which affect
   the game length and basic rule options. For more information on these see
   TABLE RULES (Section 07) below. You can confidently leave all four options on
   their default settings when you first play though and maybe make changes
   after you've learnt more about the game.   

4. Basic Mahjong Pointers

   The pages here give a simple introduction to the game. The layout is a little
   different compared to Yakuza 2 (and Kenzan) as it's been split into two parts
   and the score look-up tables have been removed. You have two options...

   4.1 How to Play

       The seven pages here explain the basics of forming sets, standard hand
       composition and ways of winning.

       For more comprehensive coverage of the rules check Section 06 below.

   4.2 Hand List

       The twenty-three pages give illustrated lists of all the Scoring Elements
       and Limit Hands permitted in the game. (see Section 06)

5. View ranking (available in tournament mode only)

   This shows the current standings in the tournament ladder/league thing.

The next few sections of this document will now explain the equipment used in
the game, the rules and the scoring system.

------< MAHJONG TILES >------------------------------------------- [Section 04]

Mahjong is a traditional oriental game of skill and luck using a set of tiles
usually made of bone or plastic and played by four players around a square
table. The game's true origins seem to have been lost in the mists (and indeed
myths) of time but it's safe to say that it originated in China and that it 
dates back to the late nineteenth century. There are numerous variants of the
game but I will be focusing on the modern Japanese version as it appears in
Yakuza 4 and the associated terminology.

The pieces are likely to make you think of dominoes but the tiles actually have
more in common with a deck of playing cards and the core gameplay is similar to
some card games, most notably Rummy.

= The Set =

A full Mahjong set has 144 tiles. In some versions of Mahjong the four Seasons
tiles and four Flowers tiles - each associated with one of the four Winds - are
used to give bonuses but in the Japanese version of the game (in Yakuza 4) they
are removed from the set so the game is played using the 136 remaining tiles.

Whereas a deck of cards has four suits with thirteen cards in each, a Mahjong
set has three suits - Dots, Bamboo (Bams) and Characters (Craks) - with nine
numbered tiles in each and there are also three Dragon tiles and four Wind
tiles. There are four copies of each of these tiles in the full set.

(3 suits x 9 tiles x 4) + (4 Winds x 4) + (3 Dragons x 4) = 136 tiles in total

If you're new to Mahjong you will need to learn to recognise all of the
different tiles so I would suggest that you consult the following webpages.

--> http://mahjong.wikidot.com/equipment

--> http://www.mahjonged.com/mahjong_tiles.html

The tiles numbered 2 to 8 are called SIMPLES, the ones marked 1 and 9 are called
TERMINALS (end of the line) and the seven different Dragon and Wind tiles are
known collectively as HONOURS.

Sometimes the Terminals and Honours together are called MAJOR TILES, ENDS or
HEADS and the Simples are called MINOR TILES or MIDDLES. Some writers refer to
the Honours as "Characters" which obviously can cause confusion with the suit of
the same name.

= Dots = (also known as Circles, Balls, Coins or PINZU)

The tiles of the DOTS suit are marked simply with blue and red circles denoting
their value, from 1 to 9. The patterns on the first six tiles are similar to the
patterns of dots on dice.

= Bamboo = (also known as BAMS, Sticks or SOUZU)

Similarly the tiles for values of 2 to 9 in the BAMBOO suit are marked with the
appropriate number of (mostly) green symbols, each representing a single piece
of bamboo. The exception is the 1-Bams tile* which is traditionally marked with
a bird, in this case a green peacock with a grey fan (it might be my cultural
bias and my standard-def monitor, but I think it looks like a cup of tea!).

*It is said that the 1-Bams has a picture of a bird because when it was origin-
ally shown as one piece of bamboo some players would cheat by changing it to
look like a different piece from the same suit! I suspect that this is why the
single circle on the 1-Dots tile is so big too.

= Characters = (also known as CRAKS, Grands or MANZU)

The tiles of the CHARACTERS suit are all marked with the same red symbol* plus a
black kanji character above it representing a number 1 to 9. Some real Mahjong
tiles made for western markets are marked with "Arabic" (i.e. English) numerals
in the corner but you're out of luck here! To play the game you will need to 
learn which of each of the nine characters represents each of the nine numbers.

If you press the Triangle button to access the help pages and then select the
"Hand list" and flick to page 15 you can see a full set of Craks tiles given as
an example of a Full Flush (Chinitsu) hand. The fourteen tiles are shown in the
order 11233445666789 so you can use that to work out which is which. (1, 2 and 3
are fairly obvious and you should learn to recognise the others after playing
a few games, even when they're sideways and upside-down!)

Here's a quick attempt to reproduce the nine numbers in ASCII art...
                                        _
                    ___     _____    / _|_       |     _|_             _|_
   _____    ---     ___    | | |_|   |  | |    -----    |       / \     | |
           -----   _____   |/____|   | _|_|_   /   \    '--'   /   \   /  |_

     1       2       3        4         5        6       7       8       9

*The red symbol on each Craks tile represents 10,000. Originally the circles on
the Dots represented individual coins, the Bams were actually strings of one
hundred coins and the Craks were sets of one hundred strings - hence 10,000.

= Winds =

There are four WINDS tiles, each named after one of the cardinal points of the
compass - East, South, West and North. Each is marked with a single black kanji
symbol so again you will have to learn to recognise them.

The four Wind symbols look (a little!) like this. The relative proportions are a
bit off but hopefully you get the idea!

              _+_
     East:   |_|_|     South:   _|_      West:   ____     North:      |
             |_|_|             __|__             _||_              _| |_
              /|\             | \ / |           | ||_|              | |
             / | \            |  T  |           |/___|             _| |_.

I think the easiest way to tell them apart is to look for the distinguishing 
feature of each symbol. If the kanji looks like it has three legs (tripod) it's
East - this is the most important one to learn because the player sitting at
East is the Dealer. If it looks like a lower-case letter "t" standing next to
its reflection then it's North. The remaining two are similar in appearance but
if it has a flat horizontal bar on top (detonator plunger!) it's West and if the
bar is crossed like a "+" symbol then it's South.

In Japanese Mahjong the four Winds are named TON (East), NAN (South), SHAA
(West) and PEI (North), although you don't need to remember that!

= Dragons =

There are three coloured DRAGONS: red, green and white; the Japanese don't
actually refer to these as Dragons but this is the name by which they are
commonly known internationally and in English texts.

The Red Dragon tile is marked with a simple red kanji character - a box with a
vertical line through it - which means "centre". In Japanese Mahjong it is known
as CHUN.

The Green Dragon has a complicated green character which means "departure" and
is read as HATSU. At low resolution it looks like a green triangle with the
point towards the top.

The White Dragon is a plain white tile and is called HAKU. You might like to
think of it as a white dragon on a white background! :) Outside Japan, the White
Dragon tile is often marked with an empty blue rectangular frame but I prefer
the Japanese version.

(The Chinese names for the three Dragons are Chung, Fa and Po respectively so
often Mahjong tiles made for export are marked with C, F or P in the corner.)

------< WINDS AND TURN OF PLAY >---------------------------------- [Section 05]

You can choose to play either a Half Game or a Quarter Game (see Section 07).

A HALF GAME is made up of two ROUNDS (or WIND ROUNDS) each of which is comprised
of four HANDS (or KYOKU) and therefore eight Hands* in total, while a QUARTER
GAME, as you might expect, lasts for only one round, or four Hands. However
sometimes additional Hands, which I will refer to as EXTRA HANDS, will be played
(see below); also a game will finish early if the points total of one player
(hopefully not you!) drops below zero - this rule is called DOBON.

  Seat Winds   At the start of a game the console will select a player to be
  ~~~~~~~~~~   East and therefore the first DEALER (or OYA). The player to the
     West      left of the Dealer is North, opposite is West and to their right
 N .------. S  is South (NB this is the opposite of a western compass layout).
 o |      | o  This is each player's SEAT WIND (or OWN WIND or JIKAZE) and these
 r |      | u  will change as the game progresses, moving counterclockwise
 t |      | t  around the table at the start of each normal Hand. Each player's
 h '------' h  Seat Wind is shown on screen next to their name, using the same
     East      kanji as the Wind tiles.

Each time the Seat Winds move, the player at East becomes the new Dealer. It is
important to know which player is the Dealer in each Hand because the current
Dealer pays and receives double points (see Section 08).

In every Hand of the game there is also a PREVALENT WIND (in the sense of a
"prevailing wind") also called the BAKAZE or the ROUND WIND because it changes
at the end of a round. This is shown near the centre of the screen and always
starts as East in the first round and then, in a Half Game, changes to South in
the second.

The following table shows how the Seat Winds rotate during the course of play
for the four players (labelled A-D working counterclockwise around the table).

            |          First Round          |         Second Round
            |    (Prevalent Wind = East)    |    (Prevalent Wind = South)
  ----------+-------------------------------+-------------------------------
       Hand |   1   |   2   |   3   |   4   |   1   |   2   |   3   |   4
  ----------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------------------------------
   Player A |  East | North |  West | South |  East | North |  West | South
   Player B | South |  East | North |  West | South |  East | North |  West
   Player C |  West | South |  East | North |  West | South |  East | North
   Player D | North |  West | South |  East | North |  West | South |  East

            |<-------- Quarter Game ------->|

            |<------------------------- Half Game ------------------------->|

The turn of play is complicated by the fact that it depends on whether a Hand is
won by the Dealer, won by another player or drawn (and how). If a Hand is won by
a non-dealer then the Seat Winds move one place to the right so South becomes
East (and therefore the new Dealer) and the next Hand played is a "normal" one
which is counted as one of the four per round.

However if a Hand is either won by the Dealer or it's a draw and the Dealer is
only one tile away from having a complete hand, i.e. the Dealer is TENPAI, then
the Seat Winds don't move and an extra Hand is played; this is a CONTINUANCE or
RENCHAN. (A player that is Tenpai is sometimes described as WAITING, CALLING or
FISHING or as having a READY hand.)

If the Hand was a draw but the Dealer was not Tenpai then the Seat Winds move
and the next Hand is a normal one, not an extra Hand, although it's still
counted as a draw in terms of points (see Section 08).

There is one final complication as the game uses an optional rule (AGARI YAME)
whereby the player who's the Dealer in the final normal Hand of the game has the
option to end the game early if they win that Hand and are leading on points;
this gives them the opportunity to ensure their victory (and pick up the very
generous Uma - see Section 08) rather than risk losing their lead in an extra
Hand. If one of the computer players wins the final Hand as East then they'll
sensibly choose to end the game and if you win as East you are given the option
(there'll be a faint "Quit?" textbox in the centre of the screen and a Yes/No
pop-up menu in the bottom-right corner).

For other topics relating to extra Hands please refer to "Two Fan Minimum" in
TABLE RULES (Section 07), "Draws and Honba" in SCORE CALCULATION (Section 08)
and the bit about the table's Honba counter under DISPLAY (Section 10).

*The term "hand" is used to describe both your allocated tiles, like a hand of
cards, which I will write in lower-case, and the basic unit of gameplay that
makes up a round, which I'll write capitalised as Hand for the sake of clarity.

------< MAHJONG RULES >------------------------------------------- [Section 06]

= The Basics =

At the start of each Hand of the game, each player draws four tiles, then four
more, then another four and finally one more unless they are the Dealer in which
case they get two (this is how the tiles are issued in the real game*). The
Dealer chooses one tile to discard, then the next player to the right takes a
tile and discards one, then the next player to their right and so on, with play
proceeding in a counterclockwise direction around the table.

The basic aim of the game is to form a complete hand of usually fourteen tiles
which consists of four sets of three tiles each (called Pungs or Chows) and one
matched pair (also called the HEAD, EYES or ATAMA), although there are a couple
of exceptions to this basic pattern which are listed later in this section (7
Pairs and 13 Orphans) and you can also have sets made of four tiles (Kongs).
    ___ ___ ___     ___ ___ ___     ___ ___ ___     ___ ___ ___     ___ ___
   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |
   | 2 | 3 | 4 |   | 6 | 6 | 6 |   | 3 | 4 | 5 |   | 7 | 8 | 9 |   | 1 | 1 |
   |___|___|___|   |___|___|___|   |___|___|___|   |___|___|___|   |___|___|
        set             set             set             set           pair

(A winning hand must also always have at least one Scoring Element - see below.)

A valid set of three tiles can either be a PUNG (also TRIPLE or KOUTSU in
Japanese) which is a triplet of three identical tiles or a CHOW (also SEQUENCE,
STRAIGHT, RUN or SHUNTSU in Japanese) which is a set of three tiles with
consecutive values from the same suit (I like to think of it as a mini version
of a straight flush in Poker) for example 2 Dots, 3 Dots and 4 Dots. Since they
lack numerical values you cannot make a Chow of either Wind or Dragon tiles
(they can only form Pungs, Kongs and pairs).

It is also possible to form a set called a KONG (also QUAD, FOUR or KANTSU in
Japanese) which is like a Pung but it includes all four of the same tile. This
is counted as one of the four sets required to make a valid hand but it would
of course leave you a tile short overall so when you declare a Kong you receive
an extra tile, sometimes called a LOOSE or SUPPLEMENT TILE. (The three different
ways to make a Kong are discussed in the next subsection.)

Through the rest of this guide I will use the word SET to refer generally to
Chows, Pungs and Kongs.

You'll notice during play that when a player calls for a discarded tile (see
below) they use special spoken declarations, CHII for a Chow, PON for a Pung or
KAN for a Kong - these are the original Chinese names for the three types of set
transcribed phonetically into Japanese.

*In real life the tiles are taken from the four-sided WALL (or YAMA) but this is
not depicted in Yakuza 4 apart from the part of it known as the DEAD WALL (also
called the WANPAI). The Dead Wall is made up of seven stacks of two tiles each -
the first two stacks are used as supplement tiles after a Kong is declared and
the other five are used as Dora indicators (see Dora Bonuses later in this
section). These five stacks are shown in the centre of the screen.

In Japanese Mahjong the Dead Wall is effectively replenished, in other words it
must always have fourteen tiles and therefore for each supplement tile taken
there will be one less tile available from the Wall at the end of the Hand.

= Calling Pung and Calling Chow =

If any other player discards a tile which you can use to form a Pung (triplet)
with two tiles you already hold then you can do what is known as CALLING PUNG.
You can take the tile you need but the Pung will then be displayed face up on
the virtual tabletop. Such a Pung is said to be EXPOSED (or OPEN or MELDED) and
your hand is therefore no longer fully CONCEALED (or CLOSED) which restricts
your options and scoring possibilities.

Similarly if the player to your left (and only that player) discards a tile 
which you can use to form a Chow (sequence) with two tiles you're holding then
you can take it; as you might've guessed, this is referred to as CALLING CHOW.
Again the set will be exposed and the hand is no longer concealed. If there is
more than one option then you can choose which two tiles from your hand to use.

Exposed sets are shown to the right of your hand. The captured tile is laid
perpendicularly to the other two and positioned to indicate which player it was
taken from: on the left if taken from the player to your left (1), on the right
if it came from the player to the right (2) and, predictably, in the middle of
the set (3) if it came from the player seated opposite you. (This is necessary
when playing a real game as you need to be able to monitor all your discards to
check if you are Furiten - see next subsection.)
                  ___ ___         ___ ___              ___      ___
         (1) ____|   |   |   (2) |   |   |____    (3) |   |____|   |
            |    |   |   |       |   |   |    |       |   |    |   |
            |____|___|___|       |___|___|____|       |___|____|___|

After calling Pung/Chow the player has fourteen tiles and must make a discard as
if it is their turn and play then continues from the player to their right. So
the turn of play is interrupted - the normal sequence is East, South, West,
North, but if then West calls Pung the next turn will go to North, then East.

Any Pungs and Chows that are exposed (also called MELDS) are locked - the tiles
cannot be discarded and the sets cannot be changed, except to turn an exposed
Pung into an exposed Kong (quad); if you already have an exposed Pung you can
only upgrade it to a Kong with a SELF-DRAWN tile, i.e. one that you were dealt.
This tile is placed above the horizontal tile in the exposed set.
             ____                         ____             ____
            |    |___ ___         ___ ___|    |        ___|    |___
            |____|   |   |       |   |   |____|       |   |____|   |
            |    |   |   |       |   |   |    |       |   |    |   |
            |____|___|___|       |___|___|____|       |___|____|___|

Alternatively if you have a concealed Pung in your hand then you can call Kong
on another player's discard which also makes an exposed Kong. Again one tile is
positioned perpendicular to the others to indicate which player the called tile
was stolen from.
               ___ ___ ___      ___ ___ ___           ___ ___      ___
          ____|   |   |   |    |   |   |   |____     |   |   |____|   |
         |    |   |   |   |    |   |   |   |    |    |   |   |    |   |
         |____|___|___|___|    |___|___|___|____|    |___|___|____|___|

If, on the other hand, you have four of the same tile concealed in your hand you
can choose when to declare it as a Kong. At this point you draw your replacement
tile and the Kong is laid on the table with two tiles facing upwards and two
downwards; such a set is still counted as concealed.

(Since there's no need to draw a replacement tile, it's not necessary to declare
a concealed Chow or Pung in your hand.)

Claims on discards to make a Pung or Kong take precedence over claims to make a
Chow. The game will process this automatically, so occasionally you might be
offered the chance to call Pung, reject this and then see the player to the
discarder's right take the same tile to make an exposed Chow.

The option to call Pung, Chow or Kong appears at the bottom-right corner of the
screen. The option to declare a concealed Kong or to "upgrade" an exposed Pung
into a Kong appears in the same place but you have to press the Square button.

= Declaring Mahjong: Tsumo and Ron =

When you choose to announce that you have a complete and valid hand you declare
MAHJONG (and therefore win the Hand), this is sometimes called GOING OUT. If you
complete your hand using a self-drawn tile (one you were "dealt") this is called
TSUMO. If on the other hand you complete your hand by picking up a discard tile
from another player this is called RON.

Crucially you *must* have at least one of the Scoring Elements or Limit Hands
(see below) to be able to declare a win.

Whereas you can usually call Chow only from the player to your left, you can
call Ron from any player and complete a Chow, Pung or pair to finish your hand;
it doesn't cause the hand to become exposed either.

If you are Tenpai (i.e. one tile away from a complete hand) and *any* of the
tiles among your own discards would complete your hand then you are FURITEN and
cannot claim *any* discard tile to win (Ron). When you are Furiten you can still
win with a self-drawn tile (Tsumo). The game won't tell you when you're Furiten
so this is something that you have to watch out for.

There is also a second type of Furiten which is known as TEMPORARY FURITEN. This
occurs if you have a Tenpai hand and (either by choice or accident) don't claim
a Ron win on a discarded tile that would complete it. In this case you only stay
Furiten until your next turn. However if you miss a Ron win after declaring
Riichi (see below) you will be permanently Furiten until the end of that Hand.

The two different ways of winning a Hand, by Tsumo or by Ron, have consequences
on the way points are distributed - with a Tsumo win the three losing players
all pay the winner but with Ron the player who discarded the winning tile has to
pay it all - see SCORE CALCULATION (Section 08) for more information on this.

Some versions of the rules allow Double Ron which is when two players go out by
Ron on the same discarded tile (so they both win points from the hapless
discarder!) but I've not seen it happen in Yakuza 2 or Kenzan so I'm pretty sure
it's not allowed. In this case, the ATAMA HANE (literally "head bump") order is
applied and, when two players claim the same discard for a win, it is the one
that is closest to the discarder's right that gets the win, and the points!

The option to declare Ron or Tsumo appears at the bottom-right of the screen.

= Declaring Riichi =

If you are only one tile away from completing a concealed hand (and there are at
least four tiles still to be dealt in the Hand) you can pay 1000 points to
declare RIICHI (ready). This is a gamble - essentially you're betting that you
will win the Hand. If you do win, you'll get your 1000-point stake back, the
Riichi will improve your score and you might get further benefits from Ippatsu
and Reverse Dora (these are explained in the "Scoring Elements and Fan" and
"Dora Bonuses" subsections below respectively).

When you (or another player) declare Riichi, a Scoring-Stick (like a casino
chip) is placed above the discard tiles - you are literally putting your 1000
points on the table - and the first tile to be discarded is placed at right-
angles to the others as a record of when it happened (this is used to check for
Ippatsu (see next subsection) and it also enables other players to see which
tiles you discarded before and at the declaration of Riichi). The 1000-point
stake/s from any Riichi are claimed by the next player to win a Hand, i.e. if a
Hand results in a draw then any stakes carry over into the next one.

Once you've called Riichi your hand is frozen and play proceeds automatically
(therefore quite quickly) until either you or another player wins; you won't
have to do anything except choose to accept Tsumo/Ron or continue (or rarely to
declare a Kong*).

Riichi is a Scoring Element in its own right so as long as your hand is closed
(with no sets made by stealing an opponent's discard) you can always use Riichi
to give your hand the Scoring Element that's required for a valid win).

The option to declare Riichi appears at the bottom-right of the screen, although
you have to press the Square button to make it pop-up.

If a game ends with Riichi stakes still on the table (i.e. if the final normal
Hand results in a draw where the Dealer is not Tenpai) then the Riichi points
are paid to the player in first place, added to their 25k Uma (see Section 08).

One nice new feature which has been added since Yakuza 2 is what I like to call
the "Riichi Helper". When you choose to declare Riichi, a box appears at the top
right of the screen showing you which tile/s you require to complete the hand
and how many of them are left unplayed (i.e. not visible on the tabletop). If
you have a choice of discards then you can switch between them and see which
gives you the best chance of winning.

*If you are given the opportunity to declare a Kong after calling Riichi you
should check first that this won't spoil your hand. On one occasion in Yakuza 2
I'd declared Riichi with a hand including 56777 Craks (which I was counting as a
567 Chow and a 77 pair) and an incomplete Chow of Bams. I was offered a Kong on
the sevens and I accepted without thinking, leaving me with two incomplete sets.
At the end of the Hand I was penalised 8000 points for "Illegal Riichi". Ouch! 

(For the record, the Dealer got 4000 points and the other two players got 2000
each. The penalty points due to a foul are called CHOMBO and are the same as the
number of points awarded for Mangan - see SCORE CALCULATION (Section 08).)

= Scoring Elements and Fan =

Unlike Poker where you can only ever have one type of hand (a full house is not
also a pair and three of a kind), in Mahjong you can have a number of patterns
and conditions - referred to as SCORING ELEMENTS or YAKU - in a single hand (I
think the most I've seen is six). Each Scoring Element present in a hand is
awarded a specified number of FAN (also known as HAN) and each Fan will - in
simple terms - *double* your score for the hand. 

It's important to note that for a valid win your hand must always qualify for at
least one Scoring Element; you can't just make any random four sets and a pair.

(Any hand with Scoring Elements and Dora bonus tiles worth thirteen or more Fan
in total is counted as a Limit Hand and always scores the limit; Dora tiles and
Limit Hands are covered later in this section. Also note that for any Scoring
Elements that require Pungs you can always use one or more Kongs instead.)

Although I've completely reformatted these listings, they still give the Scoring
Elements in the order in which they're given in the in-game help pages. I've now
added page references (so for example 3.2 is the second entry on the third page)
and I've given the Romanji spellings of the Japanese names in brackets.

Those Scoring Elements marked with an asterisk (*) score one Fan fewer if the
hand is not concealed (i.e. if it has exposed sets completed by calling a tile).

1.1    Name: PINFU

      Value: 1 Fan

Requirement: A concealed hand that receives only the basic 20 or 30 Fu (see
             Section 08) for the declaration of a win. To achieve this all four
             sets must be Chows, the hand must be completed on a TWO-SIDED WAIT
             (e.g. _56_ waiting on a 4 or 7) and the pair cannot be formed from
             Dragon, Seat Wind or Prevalent Wind tiles.

             (Although Pinfu has a low Fu value it can be combined with other
             Scoring Elements and Dora to boost the score. Since Chows are much
             easier to complete than Pungs it is also a more efficient form.)

1.2    Name: TANYAO

             Most commonly known as ALL SIMPLES in English (and in Yakuza 2!)
             or sometimes as an INSIDE or END-LESS HAND.

      Value: 1 Fan

Requirement: A hand consisting of only suit tiles with numbers between 2 and 8
             inclusive. If the Kuitan rule is off the hand must be concealed -
             see TABLE RULES (Section 07)

2.1    Name: PURE DOUBLE CHOW (Iipeikou)

             Also known as a DOUBLE RUN.

      Value: 1 Fan

Requirement: Two identical Chows (same numbers and suit) in a concealed hand.

             (The suit tiles are always displayed in numerical order so this
             will look like three consecutive pairs, 223344, rather than two
             adjacent Chows, 234234.)

2.2    Name: FULLY CONCEALED HAND (Menzen Tsumo)

             Also known as CONCEALED SELF-DRAW. Announced as "Tsumo".

      Value: 1 Fan

Requirement: A hand composed entirely of tiles drawn by the player. It cannot
             include any sets completed by calling Chow or Pung from opponents
             and it cannot be won by Ron off a discard either.

             (The combination of Fully Concealed Hand, Tanyao and Pinfu is quite
             a common one so Japanese players have an abbreviated name for it:
             "Mentanpin" - a contraction of Menzen Tsumo, Tanyao and Pinfu.)

2.3    Name: RIICHI

             Sometimes Anglicized as "REACH" and used as both noun and verb.

      Value: 1 Fan

Requirement: Awarded if you declared Riichi (see above).

3.1    Name: IPPATSU

             Literally a "ONE-SHOT" win.

      Value: 1 Fan

Requirement: Awarded if you declare a win within four dealt tiles (one cycle of
             play) after calling Riichi, i.e. on the next discard of any of your
             opponents (Ron) or on your next draw (Tsumo).

             Entitlement to Ippatsu is negated by any player calling Pung/Chow
             or making a Kong.

             Since your hand must be concealed for Riichi, winning on your own
             next turn for Ippatsu will also give Fully Concealed Hand.

3.2    Name: DRAGON PUNG (Yakuhai)

      Value: 1 Fan

Requirement: A Pung or Kong of any of the three Dragons.

             This will be listed on the scoresheet as "Red", "White" or "Green".

4.1    Name: PREVALENT WIND / SEAT WIND (Kazehai)

      Value: 1 Fan

Requirement: A Pung or Kong of either the Prevalent Wind or your current Seat
             Wind. (You can claim both together for Double Wind - see below.)

             Technically this is another form of Yakuhai but the Yakuza games
             always use "Kazehai" instead which specifies that Winds are used.

             This will be listed on the scoresheet as "East", "South", West" or
             "North" as appropriate.

             (Since you can score a Fan (which doubles your score) with sets
             consisting of Dragons, Prevalent Wind or your Seat Wind, these
             tiles are known collectively as the DOUBLING HONOURS, VALUE TILES
             or LUCKY TILES. These are also the only tiles that give minipoints
             (Fu) if they form your pair - see Section 08 below.)

4.2    Name: LAST-TILE TSUMO (Haitei)

      Value: 1 Fan

Requirement: Declaring a Tsumo win on the last tile to be dealt in the Hand.

4.3    Name: LAST-TILE RON (Houtei)

      Value: 1 Fan

Requirement: Declaring a Ron win on the last tile to be discarded in the Hand.

5.1    Name: AFTER A KONG (Rinshan Kaihou)

             Also occasionally known as KING'S TILE DRAW.

      Value: 1 Fan

Requirement: Declaring a Tsumo win on the replacement tile picked from the Dead
             Wall after declaring a Kong yourself.

5.2    Name: ROBBING THE KONG (Chankan)

      Value: 1 Fan

Requirement: Declaring a Ron win on a tile that another player had used to
             "upgrade" an exposed Pung into an exposed Kong.

             (There is one exception to this rule which is that you are also
             allowed to "rob" a *concealed* Kong when declared if you are using
             the tile to complete the Limit Hand known as Thirteen Orphans. See
             following Limit Hand list.)

(Those last four Scoring Elements occur far less often than the ones above them,
especially Robbing The Kong! I have got it a couple of times though.)

6.1    Name: ALL PUNGS (Toi-Toi)

             Also known as NO CHOWS or FOUR TRIPLETS.

      Value: 2 Fan

Requirement: A hand with four Pungs or Kongs (plus a pair obviously).

6.2    Name: MIXED OUTSIDE HAND (Chanta)

      Value: 2 Fan (1 Fan if hand is open)*

Requirement: All sets must include a Terminal or Honour tile and the pair must
             also be composed of Terminals or Honours.

7.1    Name: PURE STRAIGHT (Ikkitsuukan or "Ittsuu" for short)

             Also known as THREE CONSECUTIVE SEQUENCES.

      Value: 2 Fan (1 Fan if hand is open)*

Requirement: 123456789 tiles in the same suit (three Chows: 123, 456 and 789).

7.2    Name: SEVEN PAIRS (Chii Toitsu)

      Value: 2 Fan

Requirement: This is one of the two exceptions to the usual hand format. As you
             might've guessed from the name, it consists of seven matched pairs.
             You can't use a Kong as two pairs.

             Since there are no Pungs or Chows it will always be concealed.

             Seven Pairs always receives exactly 25 Fu (minipoints) with no
             additions and no rounding up (see Section 08).

             Successful completion of this Scoring Element is the requirement
             for the Mahjong minigame's PSN Trophy (see Section 11 for tips).

8.1    Name: MIXED TRIPLE CHOW (San Shoku Doujun or "San Shoku" for short)

      Value: 2 Fan (1 Fan if hand is open)*

Requirement: Three Chows with the same numbers but each in a different suit, for
             example 234 Bams + 234 Craks + 234 Dots.

8.2    Name: DOUBLE WIND (Ren Fon Pai)

      Value: 2 Fan

Requirement: A Pung or Kong of the Prevalent Wind when this is the same as your
             Seat Wind. This isn't really a Scoring Element in its own right -
             it's just two instances of Kazehai/Yakuhai in a single set.

             This will be listed on the scoresheet as "Double East" or "Double
             South" as appropriate. The player character will announce it using
             the Japanese wind name, e.g. "Dabu[ru] Ton" for Double East.

9.1    Name: THREE CONCEALED PUNGS (San Ankou)

      Value: 2 Fan

Requirement: Three concealed Pungs! Although the hand can also include an open
             set, all the tiles in the three Pungs must be self-drawn, so if you
             complete one by Ron you cannot claim this

             (There is no Scoring Element of "Pure Triple Chow" here but instead
             it would be counted as Three Concealed Pungs that just happen to be
             in the same suit. Some versions of Japanese Mahjong do recognise it
             as a Scoring Element called SAN REN KOU, also known as PURE SHIFTED
             PUNGS in the new Chinese Official rules.)

9.2    Name: ALL TERMINALS AND HONOURS (Honroutou)

      Value: 2 Fan

Requirement: A hand with no 2-8 numbered tiles. If you claim this you cannot
             also claim Mixed Outside Hand.

             (Obviously this will have no Chows. It will either be made with
             Pungs - in which case you also get two Fan for All Pungs (and one
             each for any Yakuhai sets) - or it might be made with Seven Pairs
             for two Fan again. You might also be able to combine it with Half
             Flush which is listed below.)

10.1   Name: LITTLE THREE DRAGONS (Shou San Gen)

      Value: 2 Fan

Requirement: Two Pungs or Kongs of Dragons plus a pair of Dragons.

             (You get one additional Fan each for the two Dragon Pungs too.)

             NB There's also a Big Three Dragons - more on that in a bit...

10.2   Name: TRIPLE PUNG (San Shoku Doukou)

      Value: 2 Fan

Requirement: Three Pungs or Kongs of the same number. This is a rare one.

11.1   Name: THREE KONGS (San Kantsu)

      Value: 2 Fan

Requirement: Any three Kongs, open or closed. This is a *very* rare one!

11.2   Name: DOUBLE RIICHI (Daburu Riichi)

      Value: 2 Fan (*instead* of the usual 1 Fan for Riichi, not in addition)

Requirement: Riichi is declared on the player's first discard.

12.1   Name: PURE OUTSIDE HAND (Junchan)

             Also known sometimes as TERMINALS IN ALL SETS (in which case the
             Mixed Outside Hand above is just called an Outside Hand).

      Value: 3 Fan (2 Fan if hand is open)*

Requirement: All sets include a Terminal (1 or 9).

             You have a good chance of getting Mixed Triple Chow with this too.

12.2   Name: HALF FLUSH (Honitsu)

             Also known as a SEMI-PURE HAND.

      Value: 3 Fan (2 Fan if hand is open)*

Requirement: A hand containing only one suit and Honours.

             Most effective if combined with one or more Yakuhai sets.

13.1   Name: TWICE PURE DOUBLE CHOW (Ryanpeikou)

      Value: 3 Fan

Requirement: A concealed hand with two instances of Pure Double Chow.

             Although this will have a Seven Pairs form, e.g. 22 445566 667788,
             you cannot also claim that Scoring Element on such a hand.

14.1   Name: TERMINAL AND HONOUR DISCARD (Nagashi Mangan)

      Value: Mangan (5 Fan)

Requirement: This is a special Scoring Element claimed when a Hand ends in a
             draw, there are no Simples (2 to 8) in the player's discard pile
             and none of his discards have been claimed by other players.

             (This is a hand which you would attempt only very rarely. It can
             only be claimed by a player when a Hand ends in an exhaustive draw,
             i.e. when the supply of seventy tiles is exhausted, so you would
             usually need to have around 17 or 18 Terminal and Honour tiles to
             be able to do this. If you start a Hand with a lot of these tiles
             then you'd probably go for Thirteen Orphans, All Terminals and
             Honours, or something like that, so the only situation where you'd
             normally go for this hand would be one where you discard all your
             initial T&H tiles to try for a Tanyao hand but find that you keep
             on drawing more T&H from the Wall and keep discarding them.)

15.1   Name: FULL FLUSH (Chinitsu)

      Value: 6 Fan (5 Fan if hand is open)*

Requirement: All the tiles in the hand are from the same suit.

(Of the above Scoring Elements, Triple Pung, Three Kongs, Twice Pure Double Chow
and Terminal & Honour Discard are easily the least common.)

It should be noted that the sets in the winning hand can only be counted one way
so if, for example, you're counting all the sets as Pungs (to get All Pungs)
then you can't claim any Scoring Elements involving Chows or if you have a hand
including tiles of 22334455 you can count this as two 234 Chows and pair of 5's
(and get Pure Double Chow if the hand is concealed) but you cannot also claim it
as a pair of 2's and two 345 Chows to get Pure Double Chow again.

*These Scoring Elements are worth one Fan less if the hand contains one or more
sets completed by calling an opponent's discarded tile. This property is known
as KUI-SAGARI ("eat and decrease").

= Limit Hands = 

LIMIT HANDS, also known as YAKUMAN, automatically score the maximum points
regardless of their Scoring Elements. They are scored at the top Limit (see
Section 08) which is conveniently/confusingly also called Yakuman.

You should be aware that Limit Hands are very rare, i.e. you'll probably have to
play Mahjong for literally dozens of hours before you see one!

Examples of the various Limit Hands are illustrated on pages 16 to 21 of the
in-game help pages.

16.1   Name: FOUR CONCEALED PUNGS (Suu Ankou)

      Value: Top Limit (Yakuman)

Requirement: All four Pungs must be entirely self-drawn (you cannot complete any
             by either calling Pung or declaring Ron).

16.2   Name: ALL HONOURS (Tsuuiisou)

             Also known as ALL SYMBOLS.

      Value: Top Limit (Yakuman)

Requirement: Only Dragon and Wind tiles are permitted.

             Much like All Terminals & Honours above, this can be made either
             with four Pungs and a pair or with seven pairs. The latter would be
             much harder but it gives the most beautiful hand in the game, with
             two each of all seven types of Honour tile.

17.1   Name: BIG THREE DRAGONS (Dai San Gen)

             Also known as THREE GREAT SCHOLARS.

      Value: Top Limit (Yakuman)

Requirement: Three Pungs or Kongs of Dragons (plus any other set and pair).

17.2   Name: ALL GREEN* (Ryyiisou)

      Value: Top Limit (Yakuman)

Requirement: A hand containing only purely green tiles, i.e. only Green Dragons
             and 2, 3, 4, 6 and 8 Bams are permitted.

18.1   Name: THIRTEEN ORPHANS (Kokushimusou)

             Also known as THIRTEEN UNIQUE WONDERS.

      Value: Top Limit (Yakuman)

Requirement: This is the other exception to the normal hand structure, composed
             of one of each Terminal and Honour tile (thirteen in total) plus a
             duplicate of one of those.

             (Realistically you need a starting hand with at least nine or ten
             different Terminals and Honours to stand a chance of making this.)

18.2   Name: LITTLE FOUR WINDS (Shou Suu Shii)

      Value: Top Limit (Yakuman)

Requirement: Three Pungs of Winds plus one pair of Winds (and one other set).

19.1   Name: ALL TERMINALS (Chinroutou)

             Also known as HEADS & TAILS.

      Value: Top Limit (Yakuman)

Requirement: Only suit tiles with values 1 and 9 are permitted.

19.2   Name: BIG WHEEL (Dai Sharin)

      Value: Top Limit (Yakuman)

Requirement: Seven Pairs but specifically with 22334455667788 in the Dots suit.

             (Some versions of Japanese Mahjong allow this Limit Hand in any
             suit but in Yakuza 4 only Dots are permitted. Other versions don't
             count it as a Limit Hand although you will always get Twice Pure
             Double Chow, Full Flush, Tanyao and Pinfu so there's a good chance
             of getting the 13 Fan for Kazoe Yakuman (see below).)

20.1   Name: FOUR KONGS (Suu Kantsu)

      Value: Top Limit (Yakuman)

Requirement: Four Kongs! (and a pair)

             Very simple, but impossibly rare.

20.2   Name: NINE GATES (Chuurenpoutou)

             Also known a NINE LANTERNS.

      Value: Top Limit (Yakuman)

Requirement: A concealed flush with specifically 1112345678999 in the same suit
             plus one extra tile from the same suit.

             (If you consider the thirteen tiles of the flush you'll see that
             the pattern of numbers is such that when you add one further tile
             from the same suit, regardless of which it is, you will always end
             up with four complete sets and a pair. The hand therefore has nine
             ways of "going out", hence the English name Nine Gates!)

21.1   Name: HEAVENLY HAND (Tenhou)

             Also known as INSTANT WIN.

      Value: Top Limit (Yakuman)

Requirement: The Dealer has a complete hand at the very start of the Hand.

21.2   Name: EARTHLY HAND (Chiihou)

             Also a.k.a. Instant Win.

      Value: Top Limit (Yakuman)

Requirement: As above but for a non-dealer winning on their first drawn tile.

21.3   Name: KAZOE YAKUMAN

             This was called NATURAL LIMIT in Yakuza 2 but now they've adopted
             the correct Japanese name which means COUNTED YAKUMAN. Not sure why
             they couldn't just call it that!

      Value: Top Limit (Yakuman)

Requirement: Any complete hand containing various Scoring Elements and Dora
             worth thirteen Fan or more in total.

             This is really just an application of the Limit system.

*Be careful not to confuse All Green with American soul singer Al Green! ;)

= Double Limit Hands = 

The DOUBLE LIMIT HANDS or DOUBLE YAKUMAN (in Japanese: DABURU YAKUMAN) are four
specific, even rarer, versions of one the Limit Hands above. They're worth twice
as many points as a Limit Hand, hence the name!

Examples of the four Double Limit Hands are illustrated on pages 22 and 23 of
the in-game help pages.

22.1   Name: FOUR CONCEALED PUNGS WITH SINGLE WAIT (Suu Ankou Tanki Machi)

      Value: Double Top Limit (Double Yakuman)

Requirement: You must already have the four complete sets and you finish the
             hand by making the pair. As usual you can have any mixture of Pungs
             or Kongs but all four sets must be entirely self-drawn.

22.2   Name: PURE THIRTEEN ORPHANS (Junsei Kokushimusou)

      Value: Double Top Limit (Double Yakuman)

Requirement: As Thirteen Orphans above (one of every Terminal and Honour tile
             plus one dupe) but the pair must be completed last; the hand is won
             on a THIRTEEN-SIDED WAIT, i.e. there are thirteen different tiles
             that could complete it.

23.1   Name: BIG FOUR WINDS (Dai Suu Shii)

      Value: Double Top Limit (Double Yakuman)

Requirement: Four Pungs or Kongs of Winds (obviously one of each) and any pair.

23.2   Name: PURE NINE GATES (Junsei Chuurenpoutou)

      Value: Double Top Limit (Double Yakuman)

Requirement: As Nine Gates above but it must be completed with the extra single
             tile to make the pair, i.e. it is won on a NINE-SIDED WAIT.

Some rules allow you to stack Limit Hands so you can claim more than one on the
same hand, for example you might have Big Three Dragons combined with a Wind
Pung and a Wind pair which would give you All Honours too and score as a Double
Limit Hand. It's theoretically possible to make a *Septuple* Limit Hand through
such STACKING but that would be very very very very very very very rare!

Although I'm yet to see it happen in a Yakuza game, a special rule called either
PAO or SEKININ HARAI (literally "liability payment") applies to certain Limit
Hands, usually Big Three Dragons and Big Four Winds. If a player has two exposed
Pungs of Dragon tiles and another player discards the tile that lets them make a
third for Big Three Dragons, or if a player has three Pungs of Wind tiles
exposed and someone discards the tile that lets them complete the fourth Pung
for Big Four Winds, then the discarding player has to pay. If the hand is won by
Tsumo the discarding player pays the full amount (Yakuman!) or if the hand is
won by Ron from a third player then the discarder has to pay half.

= Dora Bonuses =

During play you should make a mental note of the exposed tile/s on the Dead Wall
of tiles in the middle of the screen. At the start of a Hand only one tile is
exposed - this denotes that the next sequential tile is the DORA bonus tile. 
For example if 3 Bams is showing then the Dora is 4 Bams and you will score an 
additional Fan for every 4 Bams in your hand, i.e. a Pung of 4 Bams would score 
you an extra three Fan!

If a 9 tile is showing then the numbers wrap and the Dora is the 1 tile of the 
same suit. Obviously the Dragons and Winds don't have numbers so instead they
are assigned the sequences Red-White-Green and East-South-West-North (this is
the order of the Seat Winds working counterclockwise around the table) and again
these wrap so a Green Dragon showing would make the Dora tile Red Dragon.

Each time a Kong is formed, a replacement tile is taken from the Dead Wall and
one more tile is flipped to give another Dora (technically a KAN DORA). Also
if the winner of a Hand declared Riichi then there will also be a REVERSE DORA**
(or URA DORA) tile revealed at the end of the Hand. There will also be a Reverse
Dora for each of any Kan Dora (these are called KAN URA DORA). So as an example
if a Hand saw one Kong being made and the winner calling Riichi there will be a
total of four bonus tiles (the Dora and a Kan Dora and for both of these one
Reverse Dora) and these will all be shown on the score-sheet.

The Dora are different to the Red Dora which are explained in the next section.

Although each Dora (and Red Dora) tile in a hand is worth one Fan apiece*, you
still need to have at least one Scoring Element in your hand to declare Mahjong.

Dora is a contraction of Doragon which is the Japanese rendering of the English
word "dragon".

*If the same tile appears twice amongst the Dora and Reverse Dora then it is
counted twice and each occurrence is worth two Fan. It's also possible for a Red
Dora tile to also be a Dora tile.

**These were called UNDERSIDE DORA in Yakuza 2.

------< TABLE RULES >--------------------------------------------- [Section 07]

Although there is a core rule-set (including Riichi and Dora) which is common to
all Japanese play, there are literally dozens of optional rules and variations.
The situation is such that Mahjong parlours and gaming servers need to publish
a full page of information detailing the "local rules" they use. Things are a
little simpler in Yakuza 4 though and only four rule options are available (the
same four that have been included ever since Yakuza 2).

The following four options can be set from the "Mahjong menu" that's displayed
when you first join a table to play (see Section 03 above). The default setting
for each is indicated with an asterisk (*).

The rules and options are listed below in the order they appear in the game.

1. Match Settings - Half Game / Quarter Game*

   In most versions of Mahjong each match is played over four wind-rounds - one
   for each of the four Prevalent Winds - but in the Japanese rules the standard
   duration is only two. Such a game is called a HANCHAN (literally "Half Game")
   or TONNANSEN ("east south match") because it has only east and south rounds.

   Alternatively you can play half a "half game" which is often referred to in
   English as a Quarter Game (for obvious reasons) or in Japanese as TONPUUSEN
   (which means "east wind match").

   If no extra Hands are played, a Half Game will last for eight Hands while a
   Quarter Game will run for four.

2. Kuitan - Use* / Not Used**

   Setting the KUITAN rule to "Use" allows the Scoring Element of Tanyao (All
   Simples) to be claimed on an exposed hand instead of it being allowed only
   on a concealed hand.

   The "Kui" implies eating (which in a Mahjong context means calling tiles from
   your opponents' discards) and the "Tan" is short for Tanyao.

3. Two Fan Requirement - Use* / Not Used

   When the TWO-FAN MINIMUM rule is applied, a minimum score requirement of two
   Fan is imposed when five Hands have passed without a non-dealer win and the
   Honba counter (see Section 10) is showing five or more. This rule limits the
   extent to which the Dealer can take advantage of the Honba bonus points that
   are paid each time they win consecutive extra Hands (see Section 08).

   The Japanese name for this rule is RYAN HAN SHIBARI. "Ryan" is the word used
   for the number two in Japanese Mahjong, "Han" is the Japanese form of Fan and
   finally "Shibari" denotes a binding or, by extension, a restriction.

   (The word Shibari is also used in relation to Japanese bondage so it can give
   some exotic results in online image searches!)

4. Red Dora - Use / Not Used*

   With the RED DORA option (also called AKAPAI or simply RED FIVES) set to Use
   four of the number-five tiles from the suits will be marked in red ink
   instead of the usual colours. Each such Red Dora tile in your hand gives you
   one additional Fan for your score (and this is on top of the standard Dora
   bonuses) so you should turn this rule on if you want higher scores (for both
   you and your opponents!) and more to think about.

   The game follows a traditional distribution of Red Dora tiles: one 5 Craks,
   one 5 Bams and two 5 Dots. I think the reason for having four in total is
   that the extra optional Red Dora tiles fit neatly into a case designed to
   hold tiles in rows of four. The standard number 5 tiles all include some red
   bits in their designs but the Red Dora have purely red markings.

The default settings for the four table rules are: Half Game, Kuitan on, Two Fan
Minimum on and Red Dora off.

*This is the default setting for the option.

**In real Japanese Mahjong the term ARI (with) is used to denote a rule that is
being used and NASHI (without) denotes one that is not. For example you might
say that you are playing a game "Kuitan ari" if the Kuitan rule is in use. It's
a bit like specifying "aces wild" in some western card games.

------< SCORE CALCULATION >--------------------------------------- [Section 08]

Luckily the game does this for you!

= Points and Minipoints = 

The points score for a winning hand is calculated using both the total number of
Fan and the total number of MINIPOINTS (also known as FU).

(In Yakuza 2 the common English term "minipoints" was used but in Yakuza 4 they
switched to using the Japanese word "Fu".)

Fan are awarded for the Scoring Elements present in a winning hand (see Section
06) and for any Dora and Red Dora tiles (see Sections 06 and 07). For a valid
win in Japanese Mahjong your hand must always have at least one Fan obtained
from a Scoring Element.

(Subject to the limits applied - see below - each additional Fan will double the
score for your winning hand so try to include as many different Scoring Elements
and Dora as possible.)

Minipoints are awarded for declaring a win, the type of win, the type/s of set
present, the composition of the pair and how the hand was completed.

You get 20 minipoints simply for winning the Hand plus a further 10 for a win
with a concealed hand by Ron or 2 for a win by Tsumo.

An exposed Pung of Simples is worth 2 minipoints but with Terminal or Honour
tiles it's worth twice that and if concealed it's worth two times more as well.
A Kong is worth four times as many minipoints as the equivalent Pung, so a con-
cealed Kong of Terminals or Honours will get you 32. Since they are easier to
make, no minipoints are given for a Chow. A pair of Dragons, Prevalent Wind or
your current Seat Wind is worth 2 minipoints, or 4 for a pair in Double Wind
(i.e. when your Seat Wind matches the Prevalent Wind).

(Although Chows yield no minipoints they are much easier to make than Pungs and
Kongs so, since the effect of minipoints is less significant than Fan, it's best
to usually make hands of Chows.)

You also get minipoints for certain types of WAIT - a Wait is an incomplete set
or hand (which is completed when you declare a win). It's easiest to explain the
different types with examples: an EDGE WAIT is a 1 and 2 waiting on a 3 to make
a Chow, a CENTRE WAIT is a 4 and 6 waiting on a 5, a Two-Sided Wait or OPEN-
ENDED WAIT is a 5 and 6 waiting on a 4 or a 7 and a PAIR WAIT or SINGLE WAIT is
one tile waiting to become part of a pair. Only an Edge Wait, Centre Wait or
Pair Wait is awarded 2 minipoints, i.e. when you win with a "one chance" ready
hand - one that was waiting on only one specific tile.

The total of the minipoints is rounded up to the nearest ten and will usually be
shown on the score-sheet (as "Fu" now). The Seven Pairs hand is a special case
and always gets exactly 25 minipoints with no additions and no rounding up.

The following tables summarise the allocation of minipoints:-

                                   Any win |  20 minipoints
  -----------------------------------------+----------------
                       Bonus for Tsumo win |   2 minipoints
  -----------------------------------------+----------------
   Bonus for Ron win with a concealed hand |  10 minipoints

(In most rule-sets the 2 minipoints for a Tsumo win are waived in the case of a
Pinfu hand in order to meet the "no points" requirement of the Scoring Element.)

                                           |   exposed set  | concealed set
    ---------------------------------------+----------------+---------------
                Pung of Simples (e.g. 444) |  2 minipoints  |  4 minipoints
    ---------------------------------------+----------------+---------------
      Pung of Terminals/Honours (e.g. 999) |  4 minipoints  |  8 minipoints
    ---------------------------------------+----------------+---------------
               Kong of Simples (e.g. 6666) |  8 minipoints  | 16 minipoints
    ---------------------------------------+----------------+---------------
     Kong of Terminals/Honours (e.g. 1111) | 16 minipoints  | 32 minipoints
    ---------------------------------------+----------------+---------------
                       Any Chow (e.g. 567) |  0 minipoints  |  0 minipoints

(NB: If you declare a Ron win to complete the final set in a concealed hand then
the set completed with the discarded tile is considered exposed but your hand
will still be recognised as concealed.)

                           Pair of Dragons |  2 minipoints
      -------------------------------------+---------------
       Pair of Seat Wind or Prevalent Wind |  2 minipoints
      -------------------------------------+---------------
                       Pair of Double Wind |  4 minipoints
      -------------------------------------+---------------
                            Any other pair |  0 minipoints

(These additions are not applied to a Seven Pairs hand; that always gets exactly
25 minipoints with no further points for pairs or the type of win.)

                      Edge Wait (e.g. 12_) |  2 minipoints
                   ------------------------+---------------
                    Centre wait (e.g. 4_6) |  2 minipoints
                   ------------------------+---------------
                                 Pair wait |  2 minipoints
                   ------------------------+---------------
                            Any other wait |  0 minipoints

The BASE POINTS for a hand are then calculated from the number of Fan and the
total of the minipoints using the following formula.

             Base Points (BP) = minipoints x ( 2 ^ ( 2 + Fan ) )

This is an exponential function in powers of two - in other words it involves
doubling the minipoints. They always get doubled twice and then they're doubled
a further number of times equal to the number of Fan (this is why Scoring
Elements are sometimes referred to as DOUBLES). The player who won the Hand is
then paid points by the other players as shown in the following table.

                     |    Player wins by Tsumo   |      Player wins by Ron
---------------------+---------------------------+-----------------------------
    Dealer wins Hand | All three losing players  | The player who discarded 
                     | pay 2 x BP each*          | the winning tile pays 6 x BP
---------------------+---------------------------+-----------------------------
Non-dealer wins Hand | Dealer pays 2 x BP* and   | The player who discarded 
                     | other two pay 1 x BP each | the winning tile pays 4 x BP

In every case the points paid are always rounded up to the next multiple of 100
and consequently, for any given combination of Fan and minipoints, the sum of
points received for a Tsumo (self-draw) win do not always exactly equal the
points for a Ron (stolen discard) win, but it will be close.

Rather than using the formula to determine the points, Mahjong players use pre-
calculated look-up tables. These were included in the help pages in Yakuza 2 and
Kenzan but they've been removed from this game. You don't need them to play but
they might make the scoring a little clearer so take a look at this link:-

--> http://www.mahjongtime.com/mahjong-japanese-scoring-4.html

For example, if a non-dealer (i.e. a player with a Seat Wind other than East)
wins with a hand worth 3 Fan and 50 minipoints they would get 6,400 points for a
win by Ron. If it was a win by Tsumo then the Dealer would pay 3,200 points and
the other two players would each pay 1,600.

*The standard payment for each player is 1 x Base Points but "the Dealer always
pays and receives double".

= Limits =

Japanese Mahjong is played with a tiered system of LIMITS which apply to the
points you can win off a hand. The bottom Limit is called Mangan and applies to
any hand where the Base Points exceed 2000, i.e. one with five Fan, or four Fan
with 40 or more minipoints*, or three Fan with 70 or more minipoints*. If you
get six of more Fan then higher Limits apply - see table below.

In such a case, the Limit will be shown on the score-sheet instead of the mini-
points total; if you won the Hand then your character will announce the Limit
after stating all the Scoring Elements present in your winning hand.

The table below shows the five different Limits and the Fan (and in some cases
minipoints, Fu) needed to achieve for them. Each Limit is always worth the same
specified number of points, for example a Dealer with Mangan always gets 12,000
points. A Limit Hand always gives you Yakuman which is worth the maximum
possible points: a jaw-dropping 48,000 pts on a Dealer win (and a Double Limit
Hand gets twice that!).

              |                |   Points for   | Points for |   Mangan
              | Awarded for... | non-dealer win | Dealer win | equivalence
   -----------+----------------+----------------+------------+--------------
              | 3 Fan & 70+ Fu |                |            |
       Mangan | 4 Fan & 40+ Fu |      8,000     |   12,000   |   1 x Mangan
              | 5 Fan          |                |            |
   -----------+----------------+----------------+------------+--------------
      Haneman | 6 or 7 Fan     |     12,000     |   18,000   | 1.5 x Mangan
   -----------+----------------+----------------+------------+--------------
       Baiman | 8, 9 or 10 Fan |     16,000     |   24,000   |   2 x Mangan
   -----------+----------------+----------------+------------+--------------
    Sanbaiman | 11 or 12 Fan   |     24,000     |   36,000   |   3 x Mangan
   -----------+----------------+----------------+------------+--------------
      Yakuman | 13 or more Fan |     32,000     |   48,000   |   4 x Mangan

Although Yakuman scores the maximum Limit points, if you're lucky enough to get
this you will receive any Riichi stakes and Honba points (see below) as usual on
top of the Yakuman points.

*Sometimes a rule called MANGAN KIRIAGE, literally "Mangan rounding-up", can be
applied causing a hand with either four Fan and 30 minipoints or three Fan and
60 minipoints to be rounded up to the Mangan level.

= Draws and Honba =

If no-one has won after the final tile is dealt (and final discard made) then
the Hand is a draw*, specifically an EXHAUSTIVE DRAW (the supply of tiles in the
Wall is depleted/exhausted).

In this event the game checks to see if any players are one tile short of a
complete hand, i.e. they are Tenpai (if you see one or more players reveal their
tiles on a draw it's because they are Tenpai). There are 3000 points available
in a drawn Hand and these are awarded to the player or players that are Tenpai
and deducted from the ones that are not (NO-TEN). The points paid out on a draw
are called NO-TEN BAPPU.

If one player is Tenpai they get 3000 pts and the other three pay 1000 pts.

If two players are Tenpai they get 1500 pts and the other two pay 1500 pts.

If three players are Tenpai they get 1000 pts and the other one pays 3000 pts.

If all or none of the players are Tenpai then it's a complete draw and no-one 
gets or loses any points.

When a Hand ends in either a draw or a Dealer win, the HONBA counter is used
(this is displayed next to the number of tiles remaining). This is normally set
to zero but when a Hand is either a win by the Dealer or a draw (regardless of
whether or not the Dealer is Tenpai) it moves up to one; if it happens again it
moves up to two, etc. It keeps incrementing like that until a non-dealer wins a
Hand and at this point the Honba number is set back to zero again.

This affects the scores because whenever someone wins a Hand they receive an
additional number of points equal to the Honba number multiplied by 300. For a
win by Ron these points are taken from the player who discarded the winning tile
and for Tsumo each of the three losing players pays an equal share. (Unlike the
Riichi stakes, these points are not left "on the table", instead they are just
counted there and then paid when required.) 

So not only does the Dealer get six times the Base Points for a win instead of
the usual four, he can also get these extra points for as long as he "stays on"
as Dealer - 300 points for a win in the first extra Hand, 600 for a win in the
second, 900 in the third, etc. The Two Fan Minimum rule (see Section 07 above)
restricts the extent to which this can be exploited; under this rule a player
needs a hand worth at least two Fan to win the Hand when the Honba counter
reaches five so it's no longer possible to go out quickly with a "cheap" hand.

The following table summarises the consequences of different outcomes in a Hand.
(The "Hand counter" is the number shown next to the Prevalent Wind indicator
that counts the normal Hands played in each round, from 1 to 4.) Any increase
in the Honba number takes effect from the next Hand, so for example if the
Dealer wins their first (normal) Hand they don't get any Honba points but the
counter goes up to 1 and 300 points are paid for a win in the next (extra) Hand.

                  | Seat Winds |   Hand    |   Honba   |
                  | move round |  counter  |  counter  |
------------------+------------+-----------+-----------+------------------------
   Hand is won by |    yes     |    +1     |  reset to | winner gets Honba pts
     a non-dealer |            |           |    zero   | (if any)
------------------+------------+-----------+-----------+------------------------
   Hand is won by |     no     | no change |     +1    | winner gets Honba pts,
       the Dealer |            |           |           | next Hand is extra Hand
------------------+------------+-----------+-----------+------------------------
   Hand is drawn, |     no     | no change |     +1    | next Hand is extra Hand
 Dealer is Tenpai |            |           |           |
------------------+------------+-----------+-----------+------------------------
   Hand is drawn, |    yes     |    +1     |     +1    |
Dealer not Tenpai |            |           |           |

If the final normal Hand of a game results in a draw where the Dealer is not
Tenpai then the game ends (because otherwise the move of the Seat Winds would
constitute the start of a new round). Any Riichi stakes left go to the winner.

If the Dealer wins the final normal Hand and they are currently in first place
then they have the option to either end the game early or to play an extra Hand;
this rule is usually known as AGARI YAME.

*Some versions of the Japanese rules state that an ABORTIVE DRAW occurs in any
of the following situations:-

o all four players call Riichi in the same Hand

o two or more players declare four Kongs in total in one Hand

o three players simultaneously declare a Ron win on the same discard tile

o all four players discard the same Wind tile on their first turn in a Hand

o a player has nine or more different Terminal and Honour tiles after drawing
  their first tile (and they choose to accept a re-deal)

I have seen the first situation occur once in Yakuza 2 (it was called a "Four
Riichi Draw") but I don't know if any of the other types are recognised. I would
guess that the last two are not allowed as I would expect to have seen them a
few times each by now.

= Uma = 

At the end of a game the player with the most points is the winner, regardless
of how many Hands they won (perhaps only one!), and you are shown who has come
first, second, third and fourth. One final exchange of points, called the UMA,*
is then applied. The player in first is given an extra 25,000 points. These are
taken from the players in third and fourth who pay 10,000 and 15,000 points
respectively.** There is no change to the points of the player in second place.

In the event of two players having the same number of points at the end of the
game the priority goes to the player who started the game as East (i.e. South in
the final Hand), then to the player that was East next, etc. So if for example
the players at South and West in the final Hand were tied for second place, the
priority goes to South (who gets second place and zero Uma) and not West (who
ends up in third with minus 10,000 points from the Uma).

Say you win a game on the gambling tables by a (quite achievable) 15,000-point
margin then with the Uma applied you'll have made a profit of 40,000 points.
After just five games like that you can buy two Gold Plates and sell them for
200,000 Yen. Ker-ching! The same quantities of Uma points are shared in either a
half game or a quarter game so quarter games are the quicker way to rack up
points and prizes (they're also the quicker way to work through the tournament).

Your overall points total for gambling is carried over between games and can be
checked by going to your items inventory in the pause menu, pressing R1 and
selecting the white "Mahjong Sticks" item; you are also shown your total in the
top-right corner of the screen at the start and end of each Mahjong game there.
If your total drops below 25,000 points you will need to buy more before you can
play again. After a heavy loss (especially with Uma) you might end up with a
negative score for a game; this will be deducted from your overall points but
your total will never drop into negative figures.

*Uma means "horse". The same kanji character appears in Kiryuu's name, and it's
also the name given to a promoted bishop piece in Shogi (the Japanese chess game
which you can play at Shoten ("Shogi Heaven") the new club on Senryo Avenue).

**The +25/0/-10/-15 Uma here is unusually large (not to mention asymmetrical!)
compared to that found in other Mahjong video-games. For example the default Uma
settings in Mahjong Taikai IV and Mahjong Fight Club (PS3) are +10/+5/-5/-10 and
+5/0/0/-5 respectively, although they both have options for much larger amounts.

------< CONTROLS >------------------------------------------------ [Section 09]

The controls are pretty much the same as in Yakuza 2 except that some buttons
have been swapped and a useful new view is available by holding L1.

    start button - displays list of controls for minigame

   select button - gives option to quit minigame*

              L1 - hold for a top-down view to see the discards more clearly

   d-pad up/down - navigates initial menu
                 - selects pop-up menu options when necessary

d-pad left/right - selects tile to discard (or tiles to meld into)
 (or left stick)

    Cross button - confirms your decision either to discard the selected tile or
                   to take the chosen pop-up menu choice

   Circle button - cancel action listed on menu, e.g. (calling) Pung

 Triangle button - displays rules and Scoring Elements lists

   Square button - gives option to declare Riichi
                 - gives option to declare a Kong
                 - hides score-sheet at end of Hand (to see table underneath)

When you are in a position to call Riichi** or to make a Kong you can press the
Square button and you will then be given the option to perform the action.

*If you quit mid-game while playing in gambling mode then you will lose the 25k
points you used to buy into the game. In tournament mode however you can happily
quit without it affecting your league standing at all.

**If you're lazy you can use this as a "Riichi detector"! You just tap the
Square button and if your concealed hand is Riichi-able you'll be given the
option of Riichi. If you do not want to declare Riichi you can still press X to
select it to see which tile/s you can safely discard without losing your Tenpai
status and then press Triangle or Square to cancel Riichi and discard as normal.

------< DISPLAY >------------------------------------------------- [Section 10]

= The Table =

A lot of information is presented to you on the virtual tabletop.

Your hand is shown at the bottom of the screen while your three opponents' tiles
are at the right, top and left. Your tiles are shown in this order: Craks, Bams,
Dots, Winds and Dragons, and in sequential order within each of those. When you
are dealt a new tile it appears at the right end of your current tiles and any
exposed sets are shown beyond that (e.g. Chen in the illustration below). Your
currently selected tile in your hand is shown in a raised position.

Each player's name and face is shown along with their current points score and a
white box showing the symbol of their Seat Wind for the current Hand.

Tiles discarded by players are shown in front of their hand in neat rows of six.
When a discard is claimed by another player it is still displayed for reference
but it appears darkened.

A small pop-up box at the bottom-right of the screen shows the options available
to you and the button press required to do them (i.e. X to accept, O to reject).

        .-------------------------------------------------------------.
        |                      _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _              |
        |      _              |_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|             |
        |     |_|             '-'-'-'-'-'-'-'-'-'-'-'-'-'      _      |
        |     | |                          _ _  Uncle Earthly |_|     |
        |Whipped Michi             _ _ _ _|_|_|     21600     |_|     |
        |    20700                |_|_|_|_|_|_|               |_|     |
        |     |_|    _ _ _        |_|_|_|_|_|_|               '-'     |
        |     |_|   |_|_|_|       '-'-'-'-'-'-'     _ _        _      |
        |     |_|   |_|_|_|                        |_|_|      |_|     |
        |     |_|   '-|_|_|    @1* |0 |0 []13      |_|_|      |_|     |
        |     |_|     |_|_|       _ _ _ _ _        |_|_|_     |_|     |
        |     |_|     |_|_|      |_|_|_|_|_|       |_|_|_|    |_|     |
        |     |_|     |_|_|      '-'-'-'-'-'       |_|_|_|    |_|     |
        |     |_|     '-'-'    _ _ _ _ _ _         |_|_|_|    |_|     |
        |     |_|             |_|_|_|_|_|_|        '-'-'-'    |_|     |
        |     '-'             |_|_|_|_|_|_|            Undefeated Chen|
        |                     |_|_|_|-'-'-'                 25800     |
        |       Shun Akiyama  '-'-'-'                         |_|     |
        |          31900_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _             '-'     |
        |              |_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|                    |
        |              '-'-'-'-'-'-'-'-'-'-'-'-'-'                    |
        '-------------------------------------------------------------'

The block of tiles in the centre of the screen is (part of) the Dead Wall. At
the start of each Hand one tile is exposed (face up) here - this is the Dora
bonus indicator. Each time a Kong is formed, another bonus indicator tile will
be revealed. If someone wins a Hand with Riichi then the Reverse Dora are also
applied - these are on the bottom row of the Dead Wall.

There are also four numbers shown in a row in the centre of the screen directly
above the Dead Wall.

The first number is the Hand counter which shows the current Prevalent Wind and
the number of ordinary Hands played with it, so it counts from East 1 to East 4
in the first round and then - if you're playing a half game - from South 1 to
South 4 in the second round. Extra Hands are not counted here.

The middle two numbers are both shown next to a Scoring-Stick (these are also
called BONES, COUNTERS or TENBOU and are used like casino chips). The first of
these two numbers, the second in the row, counts any unclaimed 1000-point Riichi
stakes from previous drawn Hands. When a Hand is next won, an additional 1000
points multiplied by this counter are added to the winner's points along with
any Riichi stakes from the current Hand. You'll notice that the scoring stick
next to this number is one marked with a single dot, the same type that a player
lays down when declaring Riichi.

The third number in the row is the Honba counter which counts the number of
consecutive preceding Hands where either the Dealer won or it was a draw. If a
Hand is won when the Honba counter is in use then the winner receives extra
points equal to 300 multiplied by the number. When a non-dealer wins a Hand the
counter is reset to zero.

The last of the four numbers is the easiest to understand (and explain!) - it
simply shows the number of tiles remaining to be drawn in the current Hand. The
counter starts at 70 and goes down until it reaches zero (or someone wins).

= The Score-Sheet = 

The layout of the score-sheet shown at the end of each Hand is fairly straight-
forward and is similar to the one in Yakuza 2.

The winning hand is displayed at the top of the larger upper section of the
sheet with the winning tile at the right end of the unexposed tiles so the type
of Wait can be determined. Any Dora bonus tiles are shown on the next row* (in
this example one player declared a Kong so there are two Dora and the winner
called Riichi so there are two Reverse Dora). The Scoring Elements present are
listed below this with the number of Fan awarded for each. Any Dora bonus tiles
in the winning hand are listed after the Scoring Elements; regardless of the
combination of Dora, Reverse Dora and Red Dora, these are all listed together.

At the bottom of this section the number of Fu/minipoints (or the Limit) and the
total number of Fan is shown. The final row gives the number of points awarded
for the winning hand, calculated from the minipoints and number of Fan.
                       _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _  _
 the winning hand ->  |_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_||_|  <- the wining tile
                            _ _                 _ _
                      Dora |_|_|  Reverse Dora |_|_|

             ------------------------------------------------- 

                      Riichi                       1Fan
                      Ippatsu                      1Fan
                      Fully Concealed Hand (Tsumo) 1Fan
                      Seven Pairs                  2Fan
                      Dora                         2Fan
 
             ------------------------------------------------- 
                                   7Fan          Haneman  <- Limit applied
             ------------------------------------------------- 
                                             12000Points
  .--------------------------------------------------------------------------.
  | Shun Akiyama  |@| All Night Shin |$| Ron Call Yasuo |#| Wary Wataru    |&|
  |-----------------+------------------+------------------+------------------|
  |      37100      |       24700      |       24500      |       12700      |
  |      +13000     |       -3000      |       -3000      |       -6000      |
  '-----------------'------------------'------------------'------------------'

The lower section of the sheet has three rows. The first row shows the players'
names and current Seat Winds, the second shows the players' previous points
totals and the third shows the points won or lost in the last Hand (including
any 1000-point Riichi stakes and 300-point Honba rollovers as appropriate).
Since points are transferred between players, the scores on the second row will
always add up to 100,000 (i.e. 4 x 25,000) unless there are unclaimed Riichi
bets left on the table following a drawn Hand.

At the press of a button (X) the points from the Hand are incorporated into the
player totals. In the event of a drawn Hand, the Scoring Elements are not
considered and therefore only this lower section of the score-sheet is shown.

NB: You can hold the Square button or L1 to hide the score-sheet and see the
table underneath (although the counters above the Dead Wall are removed).

In a new feature added since Kenzan, after the score-sheet you're shown a table
confirming who came 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th in the game. If you're playing in the
tournament this page is followed by a display of the revised ladder standings.

*The score-sheet shows the actual Dora tile/s as opposed to the Dora indicator/s
which are seen on the table, so for example if the Dora is 8-Bams you will see
this on the score-sheet but the indicator on the Dead Wall would've been 7-Bams.

------< TROPHY >-------------------------------------------------- [Section 11]

There is one bronze PSN Trophy available from playing the Mahjong minigame.*

Although the "Seven Pairs" title is clear enough, the description is awful! It
says "Collect two of each different tile pattern in mahjong" which makes it
sound like you need to achieve every Scoring Element (Yaku) twice. This would be
absolutely ridiculous by the way - I've been playing Mahjong a lot over the past
two years and I still haven't completed a Three Kongs hand *once*!

So, the actual requirement is that you make a complete Seven Pairs hand (and
presumably declare a win with it). Since you can only steal your opponents'
discards to make Chows, Pungs and Kongs (see "Calling Pung and Calling Chow" in
Section 06) you will need to make your first six pairs using the tiles you're
dealt at the start of the hand and the ones you draw during the course of play.
Once you have the six pairs though you can complete your final pair either with
a self-drawn tile (Tsumo) or by taking an opponent's discard (Ron).

Since you're so reliant on the tiles you draw from the wall, this will all be
mostly a matter of luck. I would suggest that you just keep playing the game and
not think about the Trophy until you get a starting hand with several pairs in
it (i.e. at least three or preferably four). Remember to reject any offers to
call Pung on a discard tile, making a pair into a Pung!

With a view to making the remaining pairs, keep an eye on the tiles that have
already been discarded and avoid keeping the ones that are out of play (for
example if you have an unpaired 2-Bams tile in your hand but two other 2-Bams
have already been discarded then there's only one remaining and it's probably
best to drop yours and wait on something else). Also for your final waiting tile
to complete the seventh pair try to favour the "less useful" tiles which are
more likely to be discarded by your opponents, for example the 1's and 9's or
2's and 8's or maybe the Winds/Dragons.

Another point to keep in mind is the rule that four identical tiles cannot be
counted as two pairs for a Seven Pairs hand.

Seven Pairs isn't one of the most common Scoring Elements (it occurs in about
2.5% of winning hands in normal play) so it might take a little while to get it
but it will come eventually if you stick at it! Good luck. :)

If you're desperate to get the Trophy as soon as possible instead of getting it
on a more leisurely basis over the course of several games then you could think
about starting a new game and immediately quitting out if your starting hand has
less than four pairs (repeat as required).

Finally, just in case you can't visualise seven pairs for some reason, here's a
video of someone earning themselves the Trophy (in some style) in the original
Japanese version of Yakuza 4:

--> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hsxc_tu0cJ0

*Unlike its predecessor in the Yakuza series, there is no gold "Minigame Master"
Trophy this time around. So, in terms of Trophies at least, you don't need to
achieve completion in all minigames. Good news for the golf and batting haters!

------< COMPLETION >---------------------------------------------- [Section 12]

In order to "complete" the Mahjong minigame you need to win a match with a final
score of 50,000 points or more. This is your score from the end of the final
Hand of the game *before* the Uma (the 25,000 pts bonus for winning) is applied.

You can view your completion progress off the pause menu under: Challenges /
Minigames / Mahjong. Your highest score will be shown here and if it beats the
50,000 points target score then the target will be displayed in red and there
will be a little yellow crown in the top corner.

In contrast to the Trophy (see previous section), which can be achieved with
essentially no understanding of Mahjong, to get a score of fifty thousand will
require a combination of knowledge, technique and luck. Even an expert won't
score over 50k each time, even playing against the average AI in Yakuza 4.

I would encourage you to read this guide in full to gain an understanding of the
rules and to study Section 13 which gives a lot of general advice. However, for
the benefit of anyone wanting to achieve a basic functional level quickly, I
will attempt to cover the essentials as concisely as possible here.

For an expanded and illustrated version of my mahjong quickstart guide check out
my article on the Yakuza wikia site here:

--> http://yakuza.wikia.com/wiki/Barticle's_Introduction_to_Japanese_Mahjong

o Register for the tournament. This will cost you 50,000 Yen for registration
  but thereafter you can play as many tournament matches as you like for free
  and you'll have the chance to win various prizes worth a lot more than that.

o Choose the option for Half Game (the longer of the two) so you have more time
  to build your score. Also apply Red Dora (which adds special red 5 tiles to
  the game, each of which will double your score) and Kuitan (which gives you
  more flexibility).

o You'll need to learn to recognise the Chinese/Japanese numbers on the Craks
  suit (the tiles with red and black markings). Press Triangle during play for
  the in-game help, chose "Hand list" and page to Full Flush which shows all
  nine in order from 1 to 9 (left to right).

o You should really learn the characters used on the Wind tiles too (the ones
  with black markings). Keep paging through the help and you'll come to Little
  Four Winds which shows east, south, west and north (left to right again).

o You start with 13 tiles and each turn you take one extra and discard one. Your
  aim is to make a complete hand composed of four sets of three and one matching
  pair. The set can be a Chow (three consecutive tiles in the same suit), a Pung
  (a triplet of three identical tiles) or exceptionally a Kong (a quad set).

  (You can also make a valid hand of seven matched pairs, in fact that's the
  requirement for the Trophy, but that's usually much harder to complete.)

o If an opponent discards a tile which you could use to make a triplet then you
  can call Pung to steal it, but the set and your hand will now be "exposed" and
  no longer "concealed". Similarly you can call Chow off the player to your left
  to make a sequence but again it will be exposed. It is usually best to NOT do
  this because you'll limit your scoring potential. Keep your hand concealed and
  reject any Pung and Chow pop-up options that appear.

o Unless you have a hand which obviously lends itself to Pungs/pairs, you should
  usually try to make Chows (sequences). Keep the numbered tiles from the three
  suits, favouring ones that can make sets together. For example, 6_8 becomes a
  Chow by adding a 7 or _45_ becomes a Chow if you get either a 3 or a 6. Groups
  of four or more adjacent suit tiles can be very useful.

o In addition to the four sets, your hand will also need a pair of two identical
  tiles so make sure you keep a pair when you have one.

o To declare a win with a hand it must also have at least one Scoring Element.
  These are loosely equivalent to the combinations of Poker except in Mahjong
  you can combine them. Check Section 06 of this guide for a list or review the
  illustrated examples in the in-game help.

o The two most important Scoring Elements are Riichi and Pinfu. I would suggest
  that most of the time you attempt to use both in combination, hopefully with
  some other stuff too to boost your score.

o If your hand is "ready" (one tile away from being complete) and concealed you
  can declare Riichi by pressing the Square button. If you're not sure you can
  just press Square each turn and see what happens! Declaring a win after Riichi
  will add a double to your score and there's a couple of extra possible bonuses
  too. It does cost 1000 points to use it though so it's best to use it when you
  could win with two or more tiles (see display in top-right corner when picking
  the Riichi option) and when there are at least 15 tiles remaining to be played
  (see counter at the right-hand end of the black section in the centre).

o Pinfu is the hardest Scoring Element to explain but it's one of the most
  common and useful. For Pinfu you must meet the following requirements:

  - you hand must be concealed (so don't call Chow/Pung when offered)

  - all four sets must be Chows (which is a good thing because that's the most
    efficient structure to use)

  - the hand must be completed on a Two-Sided Wait, for example _56_ (in other
    words your hand must consist of three complete Chows, one pair and two more
    tiles with consecutive numbers in the same suit, e.g. 234 789 345 11 _56_)

  - the pair cannot be composed of any of the Dragons (the special white, green
    and red tiles), the current Prevalent Wind (shown in English in the centre
    of the screen) or your current Seat Wind (check the kanji symbol next to
    your character's name)

  It sounds complicated but this should all flow naturally from sensible play.

o Riichi and Pinfu are often combined with Tanyao. This is achieved by having a
  hand with no Dragons, Winds, 1's or 9's, in other words the hand is composed
  entirely of suit tiles with numbers between 2 and 8 inclusive.

  (NB: The Scoring Element of Tanyao can only be claimed on an exposed hand if
  the Kuitan rule is applied.)

o Another handy way to boost your score is the Dora bonus tiles. The tile shown
  in the centre of the screen is the Dora indicator and the next sequential tile
  is the Dora and each is worth one double. For example if the indicator is the
  2-Dots tile and you have a pair of 3-Dots in your hand then you have two Dora.

  (The numbers wrap so a 9 indicator makes the Dora 1 in the same suit and the
  Dragons and Winds follow the sequences Green>Red>White>Green (it happens to be
  in alphabetical order in English) and East>South>West>North>East.)

  With the Red Dora option applied you'll see special red versions of some of
  the number 5 suit tiles. These are worth one double each too.

o The player with the current Seat Wind of East is known (in English) as the
  "Dealer" and receives around 50% extra points each time they win; therefore
  you should try to take advantage of your stints as Dealer. You will "stay on"
  as Dealer if you win the Hand or if it results in a draw where you have a
  "ready" hand (one that is one tile away from being complete).

o You declare "Tsumo" to register a win with a tile you've drawn yourself or
  "Ron" to win off an opponent's discard. If you have a ready hand that could be
  completed by any of the tiles that you've already discarded yourself then you
  are Furiten and you cannot declare Ron; you can still win by Tsumo or you can
  change your hand structure to escape the Furiten. 

o Although generally you should avoid calling discarded tiles from the other
  players, here are some examples of when it might be a good choice:-

  - If you have a pair of Dragons, Seat Wind or Prevalent Wind (see Pinfu above)
    then you can call Pung on a third matching tile to give the Scoring Element
    required for a win. You might use this to give a quick/cheap win in order to
    stay on as the Dealer in the next Hand.

    (Aside from such pairs, you'd usually discard the Winds and Dragons first.)

  - If you have several Dora tiles in your hand you might call tiles to complete
    a Tanyao hand to secure the win quickly.

  - A Half Flush (one suit plus Winds and Dragons) or Full Flush (one suit only)
    can be completed more easily by calling tiles, although it will devalue the
    hand somewhat.

  - Any player with a ready hand in a draw receives a share of 3000 points from
    their opponents so even if you are unlikely to win you might call tiles in
    the final few turns to achieve a ready hand.

o Once you've won some points you'll want to keep them! If an opponent declares
  a Ron win off one of your discarded tiles then you pay the full amount for
  their win so sometimes you'll need to play defensively. If another player
  calls Riichi then you know they are only one tile away from winning and the
  safest action is to "fold", i.e. to dismantle your hand so you can discard
  safe tiles. This is a tough lesson to learn but sometimes you need "to lose a
  battle in order to win the war"!

  The best tiles to discard are ones that your opponent has already discarded
  because they will be Furiten on them. It's also good to drop tiles that you or
  the other opponents have discarded since the player declared Riichi.

  (This is another reason not to steal tiles from your opponents. The tiles in
  your exposed set/s are locked so you have less to choose from when folding.)

o Be patient, keep practising and enjoy learning the game.

------< STRATEGY >------------------------------------------------ [Section 13]

(Disclaimer: I wrote this for my previous Yakuza guides when I was still quite
new to Mahjong but I think it's still good, if somewhat long and rambling...!)

Mahjong is a complex game so it's obviously advantageous to have a good working
knowledge of all the rules and Scoring Elements and an awareness of the points
system. I hope that the other sections of this guide cover everything you need
to know; even if you already know enough to play the game I think it's worth
reading through the whole thing to pick up on anything you might've missed.

Don't forget that you can choose your difficulty level when playing in gambling
mode on the three tables at the parlour.

At the start of a Hand I'd survey my tiles quickly to see if they lend them-
selves to any particular Scoring Element/s. If there's a fair chance of obtain-
ing this I'd work towards that goal but you have to be flexible - you might need
to change your plans later in the Hand based on the tiles you're dealt.

Then I'd look at any Honours (Winds or Dragons) in the hand. If you have a pair
of Dragons, Prevalent Wind or your Seat Wind then it's definitely worth keeping
them; if nothing else you can use them as your pair (that's worth a couple of
minipoints too) but in my experience you are very likely to get the opportunity
to pick up a third by calling Pung (since other players will discard them) which
will score you one Fan and give you the Scoring Element you need to declare a
win (your hand will no longer be concealed though). If you have Double Wind
(i.e. your Seat Wind matches the Prevalent Wind) then the pair or Pung is worth
double; because of the way the Seat Winds move, each player will be in Double
Wind for at least one Hand per round.

If you find yourself with an individual Dragon or Prevalent/Seat Wind tile then
it's tempting to hang onto it - there are only thirty-four different tiles in
the game so there's a chance you'll be dealt another to make a pair and then you
can steal a discard to make a Pung - but I think it's probably best to ditch
them quite early (so that you don't miss any opportunities to start building
sets with the other tiles) and you'll notice that the other players do the same.
The only solo Honour tile you might want to keep is your Seat Wind, especially
when it is a Double Wind, as this is usually of no use to your opponents and
therefore a more likely discard.

(Keep an eye out for hands where the majority of the tiles are Honours (in pairs
or Pungs) and suit tiles from a single suit as this will give you a good chance
of getting a Half Flush hand. In this case any Winds are useful - they don't
have to be the Prevalent Wind or your Seat Wind, although they are better.)

Although Honours can be used to make scoring sets they are not very flexible as
they cannot be used in Chows, only Pungs (or Kongs). Terminals (1's and 9's) are
slightly more useful because they can be used in Pungs or one Chow (e.g. 111 or
123) and tiles marked 2 or 8 are better still because they can make a Pung or
two different Chows (e.g. 222, 123 or 234). The suit tiles marked 3 to 7 are the
most useful as they can make a Pung or three possible Chows. This analysis not
only shows which tiles are generally the most helpful to retain in your hand but
also which are the better Waits to aim for. Given a choice of two options it's
better, for example, to make a ready hand needing a 1 rather than a 4 because a
1 is less useful and is therefore more likely to be discarded by another player.

If you can see two of a given Honour tile on the table there's no chance of
making a Pung from your single or pair of the same and equally you can safely
discard one without someone calling Pung on it (although they could still claim
it by Ron to make a pair and go out). However if it's late in a Hand and you can
only see one (or none) of a certain Honour tile then it's likely that another
player is sitting on a pair and it will be risky to discard one.

Next I'd discard any stray tiles that look less useful. If I only have one Craks
tile for example I'd ditch it. If I have 1, 4, 5, 7 and 9 Bams then the 4 and 5
could form a Chow and so could the 7 and 9 but I'd usually get rid of the 1 that
doesn't have any near neighbours. Any suit tile with a number more than two
away from the others you're holding can't make an easy Chow so is a likely
discard.

You should keep probabilities in your mind when building your hand. From the
earlier example, if I have 7 and 9 then I could make a Chow with an 8 of the
same suit but if I have 4 and 5 then either a 3 or a 6 would do it - so speaking
generally I'm twice as likely to draw a tile I need in the second case. Two con-
secutive suit tiles, like 4 and 5, are called a SERIAL PAIR or RYANMEN Wait, and
such elements are the most effective way to build a hand.

If I have 6, 7 and 9 Dots then I'm waiting on a 5 or 8 Dots to make a Chow with
the 6 and 7 but also waiting on an 8 again to make a Chow with the 7 and 9. In
this case I might discard the 9. You need to govern your hand with a view to
maximising your chances of each drawn tile helping you complete a set.

(You should learn to recognise patterns of tiles that give you multiple winning
options and try to steer your hand towards these. For example if you have 6667
you can take a 5 to make a 567 Chow and a 66 pair, or a 7 to make a 666 Pung and
a 77 pair or an 8 to make a 66 pair and a 678 Chow. If you have 2345 you can
make a Chow and a pair with either a 2 or a 5. You'll also come to instantly
recognise complete sets that overlap, for example 455667 is two Chows - 456 and
567 - and 12223 is a 123 Chow and a pair.)

Of course there are other factors to consider when thinking of probabilities.
You should check the discards, the Dora indicator/s and any exposed sets to see
if the tile/s you need are inaccessible. Also remember that the tiles you want
might be in the concealed section of another player's hand or among the fourteen
tiles in the Dead Wall which will not enter play.

If I've got two 3-Bams in my hand then I can use that as my pair. I might be
able to make a Pung with another 3 Bams but there are only four 3 Bams tiles in
the whole game and I've already got two of them! Even if none have been
discarded, the chances of that aren't so good, although of course you can call
Pung on any player's discard whereas you can only call Chow from the player to
your left. Pungs can give you a better hand too, with better Scoring Elements
and minipoints to be had, but generally it's preferable to go for Chows.

You should also think about all the possible Scoring Elements, especially the
one-Fan patterns which are easiest to achieve. Calling Pung and calling Chow
(picking up discards from other players) makes it a lot easier to complete sets
in your hand but this will make your hand exposed which rules out some elements
like Pinfu, Riichi and obviously Fully Concealed Hand! You might want to con-
sider ditching all the Terminals and Honours from your hand to get Tanyao or
conversely you might keep them for All Terminals And Honours or Mixed Outside
Hand. You might keep Terminals as part of a Pure Straight or Honours to help
with a Half Flush.

Don't forget that you need a pair in your hand so if you only have one pair
think twice before you call Pung on it. It can be quite hard to make a new pair.

Speaking of pairs, if you have a hand with several (five maybe?) then you could
try aiming for the Seven Pairs hand but this often doesn't give a great score
and can be hard to complete. A better option is to go for All Pungs which gives
two Fan, good minipoints for Pungs and opportunities to make Kongs. If you can
complete three of the Pungs with self-drawn tiles you can claim a further two
Fan for Three Concealed Pungs and if you make all four by self-draw you've got
yourself a Limit Hand! However usually you will need to call for discards in
order to complete the hand and this will limit your defensive potential.

If you find yourself with four of the same suit tile in your hand it might be
best to wait before declaring a Kong - this gives you the flexibility to use the
tiles as a Pung and part of a Chow. Also if you hold off on declaring the Kong
until you are Tenpai (i.e. one tile short of a complete hand) then there's a
chance that you'll score one extra Fan for "After a Kong" if you complete your
hand. If one or more of your opponents has called Riichi then it's better not to
make a Kong as this will give them potentially two extra Dora if they win.

If you have some exposed Pungs remember which tiles are there. You might be
dealt the fourth you need to make one into a Kong which will boost your score.

Declaring Riichi can be a good way to make points - you can score Fan for Riichi
itself plus Ippatsu and Reverse Dora bonuses - but if you call Riichi late in a
Hand you won't have many opportunities to get the tile/s you need. It is also
better to call Riichi when there are several possible tiles that could complete
your hand, for example if you are holding 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 Craks you could form
two Chows with either 1-Craks, 4-Craks or 7-Craks. Again you should check the
discard piles to see if some of the tiles you need have gone as this will shift
the odds against you. Don't forget that taking Riichi costs 1000 pts so if your
chances aren't so good it may be better not to risk it.

If you have a choice of several discards when "reaching" (declaring Riichi) you
should carefully compare the different options. How many of the tile/s you need
are still in play? Will your choice affect your Scoring Elements (for example
Tanyao)? Will it make you Furiten? Will it get you more or less Dora tiles?
Would it be better to hold off until you're waiting on more/different tiles? You
should also think about whether your opponents are close to winning because you
won't have any control over your discards and therefore can't play defence.

Keep in mind that you need a hand worth at least one Fan (not counting Dora
bonuses) to be able to declare Mahjong; you can't just have four complete sets
and a pair. This is one reason to avoid calling Pung/Chow at every offered
opportunity - you can get an ill-formed and worthless (and exposed) hand. Make
sure you have a Scoring Element (it's usually best to combine Pinfu and Riichi).

You should also remember to check the exposed tile on the Dead Wall for the Dora
bonus as this might affect your decisions. A pair or Pung of Dora tiles will
give you two or three extra doubles to your score so you'll want to keep them.
If you only have a single Dora in your hand then it's worth hanging onto for a
while - you might at least be able to make a pair with it - but if you don't get
the tiles you need to make a set with it then you should let it go. The same
goes for the Red Dora bonus tiles if you have that rule/option turned on.

Being the Dealer (i.e. in a Hand where your Seat Wind is East) is a bit of a
double-edged sword. If you're an optimist then you'll relish the opportunity to
score extra points on a win and then "stay on" as Dealer to do it again but if
you're a pessimist you might be worried about facing a bigger loss of points if
you lose. It might be better not to risk going for a higher-scoring hand and
instead to go out on the first available possibility, then repeat this process.

If you are doing well in a Hand then you might want to stop and count how many
Fan your hand is worth. If it's currently worth 4 or 6 Fan then it's not worth
taking a gamble on getting one more Fan since a 6 Fan hand scores the same as a
7 Fan hand and a 4 Fan hand (with 40+ minipoints) scores the same as 5 Fan.

As you get better at Mahjong you will start to think more about defensive play.
The essence of defence is to avoid discarding tiles which help your opponents,
especially ones they can claim by Ron to win the hand; they might still win with
a self-drawn tile or with someone else's discard but at least you won't have to
pay all the points. Since the discarder pays all the points for a win by Ron,
feeding a player the tile they need to win could easily cost you as much as
12,000 points if they're the Dealer!

You should be cautious of any player who has called Riichi because they must
have a Tenpai hand and are therefore in a position to claim Ron on a discard.
However you should also keep in mind that a player might be Tenpai but not call
Riichi because either their hand is not concealed or they have a poor Wait (i.e.
their chance of getting the tile/s they need is not high enough to risk the 1000
points for Riichi). This is called "SILENT TENPAI" or DAMA TEN.

Remember that the other players can also claim discards to make sets which will
put them closer to a winning hand. It's particularly important to watch the
player to your right as they can call Chows from you as well as Pungs.

The key to defence is to read your opponent's discards to try to work out what
tile/s they need. Mahjong experts have written on this topic at length but I'll
just give a few simple points here. At the most basic level, you can sometimes
get an overall impression of their discards/hand, for example if one suit is
missing from their discards then they could be making a Flush or Half Flush hand
and you should avoid discarding tiles of that suit, or if they've discarded a
lot of Honours and Terminals they are probably trying to get Tanyao.

In general play it is usually safe to discard a tile that someone has discarded
recently because if someone needed it they'd have taken it! Also when a player
is Tenpai you are safe to discard any tile which they have discarded because of
the Furiten rule - they cannot call Ron on any tile they've discarded. Although
it's less certain, you might also choose to assume that a Tenpai player has made
the most effective sort of Wait, the serial pair, for example a 4 and a 5
waiting on a 3 or 6 to become a Chow, but they are unlikely to have made a Wait
where they are Furiten on one of the two winning tiles, so you can reason that
if they discard a 3 for example then they probably don't have a 3/6 wait and the
6 tile of the same suit could also be safe (you will learn the tiles that go
together, i.e. 1-4-7, 2-5-8 and 3-6-9). This works best with low or high value
discards because, for example, a 1 discard means that 4 could be safe (with a
23 wait) but a 4 discarded might mean that either 1 (with a 23 wait) *or* 7
(with a 56 wait) could be safe.

In an extreme case, if at any stage you think you're unlikely to win (i.e. your
hand is far from complete) then you should start to play defensively. You might
even choose to break up non-exposed sets in your hand in order to be able to
discard tiles that are safer and prevent another player from winning. Breaking
a Pung is especially useful because if no one claims the first discard then you
have two more of the same tile to discard on your next two turns!

When heading for a draw you might also call Pung/Chow on tiles that you wouldn't
normally take in an effort to get your hand into a Tenpai state and therefore
fair better when the points are shared out. A Tenpai hand is any that is only
one tile away from being complete, regardless of it being concealed or exposed
or being a "good" (Pungs of Honours) or "bad" (Chows of Simples) hand. If you're
the only player that's Tenpai in a draw you get a very handy 3000 points which
is more than you get for winning with a low-value hand!

Don't lose heart in a game if you've been stuck in fourth place for ages. One
high-scoring hand can win you the game or at least put you in second place where
you won't get stung by the Uma.

------< FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS >------------------------------ [Section 14]

Q. I made four sets and a pair, why didn't I win the Hand?

A. Your complete hand must have at least one Scoring Element or, if you're very
   lucky, a Limit Hand (see Section 06 for lists of both) before you can declare
   Mahjong (Tsumo or Ron) and win the Hand.

   If you're playing the Two Fan Minimum rule and the Honba counter (the third
   number in the middle of the screen) is showing 5+ then your hand must be
   worth at least two Fan (not counting Dora bonuses) before you can go out.

Q. I'm one tile away from a complete hand, why can't I do the Riichi thing?

A. Firstly the game won't show you the option for Riichi, you have to press the
   Square button first.

   Secondly you need to fulfil the following criteria to declare Riichi:-

   o you must have a "ready hand" that's one tile away from completion, although
     two or more different tiles could complete it

   o your hand must be concealed (with no exposed sets made with discards)

   o there must be at least four tiles remaining to be drawn (dealt) in the Hand

   o you need the 1000 points to pay the stake

Q. I had four identical tiles in my hand, shouldn't I have been able to declare
   a Kong set?

A. Yes, but this is another situation where you need to press the Square button
   to get the option to pop up.

Q. When should I declare a Kong?

A. The most significant effect of declaring a Kong is that an additional Dora
   indicator is revealed (see Section 06). When a player declares a win they can
   benefit from this, and if they won after declaring Riichi then they will also
   have an additional Reverse Dora indicator.

   This makes a generous gift so you should aim to give it only to yourself and
   not to an opponent! It is best to declare a Kong only when you are close to
   declaring a win. If you do it when your hand is Tenpai (ready) then there's a
   chance that you'll complete your hand with the supplement tile you take after
   declaring a Kong in which case you would receive the bonus Scoring Element
   "After a Kong" which is worth one extra Fan.

   It's usually a bad idea to declare a Kong after an opponent has "reached"
   because they must have a Tenpai hand so they're very close to winning and two
   additional Dora indicators will be applied if they win.

Q. I was one tile away from winning and one of the other players discarded a
   tile I needed to win but I couldn't claim it (Ron), why was that?

A. If you had already called Riichi then you were probably Furiten - this is the
   situation when any of the tiles you have discarded could complete your hand.
   When you are Furiten you are not allowed to win by Ron although you can still
   win by Tsumo (i.e. with a self-drawn tile).

   If you hadn't declared Riichi then either you were Furiten or your hand did
   not meet the criteria of any Scoring Elements so you couldn't win with it.

   For example:-

   o If the only potential Scoring Element in your hand was Tanyao and you had a
     2 and a 3 waiting to be a Chow then you could win with a 4 but you could
     not win with a 1 because then the hand wouldn't be "All Simples".

   o If you had no Scoring Elements and, say, a pair of 2-Bams and a pair of
     Red Dragons then you could win with another Red Dragon (giving the Scoring
     Element required: Dragon Pung) but you couldn't win with another 2-Bams.

   o If you were trying to win with only Fully Concealed Hand this Scoring
     Element has a requirement that the winning tile must be self-drawn so you
     can't win with Ron (unless you have other Scoring Elements present).

   If you're unable to "go out" you should either try to change your hand to get
   a viable Scoring Element (perhaps lose the Terminals and Honours to get All
   Simples, or try to get Pinfu) or attempt to hold out, being careful with your
   discards, and maintaining your Tenpai status so you fair better in a draw.

   Remember that Riichi is a Scoring Element itself so it's possible to call
   Riichi on a (closed Tenpai) hand and then go out with a complete but other-
   wise valueless hand using Riichi to give the one Scoring Element required.

Q. What are all the different tiles?!

A. There are thirty-four different tiles in the game (and four of each in the
   set) and you'll need to be able to tell them apart to play Mahjong.

   Rather than describing each individual tile, it's easier to direct the reader
   towards helpful resources - have a look at the following webpages which show
   all the different tiles in the game, but disregard the Seasons and Flowers
   tiles as these are not used in the Japanese version of the game.

   --> http://www.mahjonged.com/mahjong_tiles.html

   --> http://www.mahjong-solitaire-game.com/mahjong-solitaire-tiles.htm

Q. Do I have to learn all these Scoring Element things?!

A. Not really - when you're new to the game it's probably best just to focus on
   the ones which occur most frequently in play. You should keep in mind that
   combining as many Scoring Elements (and Dora) as possible in a hand is the
   key to getting big scores.

   Here's a list of the top ten Scoring Elements you should learn, listed with
   the most common at the top.

   o Riichi
   o Pung of Dragon / Seat Wind / Prevalent Wind
   o Tanyao (All Simples)
   o Pinfu
   o Fully Concealed Hand
   o Half Flush
   o Pure Double Chow
   o All Pungs
   o Mixed Triple Chow
   o Seven Pairs

   Ippatsu actually occurs fairly commonly too (above Half Flush in the chart)
   but since it's pretty much a matter of luck I've not listed it here.

   Some of even the low-value Scoring Elements are stupidly rare - a few even
   occur less often than Limit Hands. Don't expect to see Triple Pung, Robbing
   The Kong, Twice Pure Double Chow or (especially) Three Kongs any time soon!

Q. What do the numbers in the middle of the screen mean?

A. Working from left to right they count: the number of normal Hands played in
   the current round (and the current Prevalent Wind: East or South), the number
   of Riichi bets left on the table from previous Hand/s (each worth 1000 points
   for a win), the number of consecutive preceding Hands that were either a
   Dealer win or a draw (each worth 300 points for a win) and finally the number
   of tiles remaining to be drawn in the Hand.

Q. How do I know which tiles give the Dora bonus?

A. Any exposed tiles on the Dead Wall (the row of five tiles in the centre of
   the screen) are Dora indicators and the actual Dora is the next sequential
   tile. For example, if you can see a 6-Dots there then the Dora is 7-Dots.

   Each declaration of a Kong set causes another Dora indicator to be exposed
   and if the player wins with Riichi then secret Reverse Dora also apply. 

   See the DORA BONUSES subsection of Section 06 for further information.

   Also, if you are playing the Red Dora rule then any red fives also give a
   bonus (see Section 07).

Q. How do the modern Japanese rules in Yakuza 4 differ from other versions?

A. There are actually quite a lot of differences between the various versions of
   Mahjong played in different countries. The key features of "Riichi" Mahjong
   (also known as Reach Mahjong) that distinguish it from others are as follows:

   o only the winner of a Hand scores points, and for a win with a discard (Ron)
     the points are taken only from the player that discarded the winning tile

   o points are paid on a drawn Hand (if one, two or three players are Tenpai)

   o the list of permitted Scoring Elements includes Pure Straight, Tanyao,
     Mixed Outside Hand, Mixed Triple Chow, Triple Pung and Seven Pairs

   o there are no restrictions on the number of suits or Chows in a hand

   o Dora and Red Dora are used

   o the Season and Flower bonus tiles are not used
   
   o Riichi is used (plus the related features of Ippatsu and Reverse Dora)

   o the Furiten rule is used (and therefore discards are arranged neatly)

   o the game is usually played over two rounds (East and South) instead of four

   o the game is played with a one-Fan minimum (for declaring a win)

Q. How can I get me one of them fancy Limit Hands?

A. I think the best advice is to forget about it, or at least to put it to the
   back of your mind! Although they make up a large part of the rules and their
   interesting patterns and high scores are quite exciting, realistically you
   could play for a very long time and not see one, despite your best efforts!

   What you can do is to quickly check your tiles at the start of each Hand and
   see if they have the potential to form a Limit Hand, i.e. if you already have
   more than half the tiles required. For example lots of Winds and Dragons for
   All Honours, lots of ones and nines for All Terminals, a good range of both
   Terminals and Honours for Thirteen Orphans, several Pungs and pairs for Four
   Concealed Pungs or lots of Dragons for Big Three Dragons.

   The game stats on the Tenhou website show that (reasonably skilled!) players
   achieve Yakuman (top Limit) scores in about 0.18% of winning hands which is
   equivalent to about one in 550. The most common are Four Concealed Pungs, Big
   Three Dragons and Thirteen Orphans, each occurring in about 0.04% of wins.

Q. What's the best Mahjong hand you've got in a Yakuza game?

A. I've completed Limit Hands (Yakuman) in all the previous Yakuza games that
   featured a playable Mahjong minigame.

   My first ever Limit Hand was in Kenzan* where I made a rare Counted Yakuman
   (a hand with elements worth 13 or more Fan). I had two Kongs and got really
   lucky with the Dora - I had eleven! I called Riichi and got Tanyao too, for a
   total of 13 Fan.

   I also got Four Concealed Pungs in Yakuza 2 and Thirteen Orphans in Yakuza 3
   (or specifically in the Japanese original "Ryuu ga Gotoku 3" since Sega saw
   fit to cut the Mahjong minigame from the English version, Yakuza 3).

   I've made several Limit Hands in other Mahjong video-games too, although it
   is easier when playing versus the computer (rather than against real people).

   Believe it or not, it's actually harder to make a hand with 11 or 12 Fan (a
   Sanbaiman) than it is to make a Limit Hand (nominally 13 Fan). Compared to my
   fifteen Limit Hand (Yakuman) wins, I've only got Sanbaiman three times!

Q. Is there a side-mission which involves playing Mahjong, like in Yakuza 2?

A. There's actually a storyline event at the Mahjong parlour - it's at the start
   of Part 3 when you switch to the third playable character, Tanimura. Your
   objective is to win sufficient points through playing Mahjong in order to be
   able to purchase two Silver Plates.

   Sega added a lifeline for anyone not into Mahjong though - you can just buy
   a couple of fake plates from the nearby pawnshop for only 100 Yen each.

   [Info sourced from ThePatrick's Yakuza 4 guide - thanks buddy! At the time of
   writing I've only had the game two days and I'm still on Part 1 Chapter 2.]

   This is probably the reason why the value of the Silver Plate item has been
   increased from 10,000 to 13,000 Yen since Yakuza 3. At the old price it would
   be cheaper just to buy the plates instead of the 25,000 pts to start a game.

Q. Have they changed any of the terminology used previously in Yakuza 2?

A. Unhelpfully, yes they have!

   o The Scoring Element "All Simples" is now known by the Japanese "Tanyao"

   o The "Full Game" and "Half Game" options of Yakuza 2 are now "Half Game"
     (two rounds) and "Quarter Game" (one round) *respectively*!

   o The "Underside Dora" is now the "Reverse Dora"

   o The term "Limit Hand" has been replaced by the Japanese form "Yakuman"

   o The Yakuman "Natural Limit" is now known by the Japanese "Kazoe Yakuman"

   o The term "Minipoints" has been replaced by the Japanese equivalent "Fu"

*"Ryuu ga Gotoku: Kenzan!" was an offshoot from the Yakuza series, released for
the PS3 in 2008 and set in 17th-century Japan. Although we live in hope, there's
still no indication of an English version being made.

------< GLOSSARY >------------------------------------------------ [Section 15]

Since there are so many special terms used in Mahjong I thought it would be
helpful to include this section which defines the most important words. I've
tried to keep the definitions very short and simple here; there's a more
comprehensive explanation of each one somewhere in the document above...

Bamboo - one of the three suits, also called Bams

Calling Pung/Chow - making an exposed set using another player's discard

Characters - one of the three suits, also known as Craks

Chii - declaration made when calling for a discard tile to make a Chow

Closed - descriptive of a concealed set or hand

Chow - a set of three tiles from the same suit with consecutive numbers

Concealed - a hand with no exposed tiles

Counted Yakuman - a hand with Scoring Elements and Dora totalling 13+ Fan

Dead Wall - a small wall of spare tiles shown in the centre of the screen

Dealer - the player with a Seat Wind (q.v.) of East in any given Hand

Dots - one of the three suits, they're marked with dots!

Dora - one or more tiles that gives a bonus score (cf. Red Dora)

Dragons - the three Dragon tiles are red, white and green

Draw - a Hand in which no player declares a win

Exposed - a set that has been placed face-up on the table
        - a hand with one or more exposed sets

Extra Hand - an additional Hand played after a Dealer win or Dealer Tenpai draw

Fan - a score doubler awarded for Scoring Elements and Dora in a hand

Flowers - four tiles depicting flowers, not used in Japanese Mahjong

Fu - a measure of score awarded for features in a wining hand

Furiten - when one of your discards would complete your hand you cannot call Ron

Half game - a game lasting two rounds (the standard length in Japanese Mahjong)

hand - the thirteen tiles you are holding plus one you are dealt

Hand - each round consists of four normal Hands and sometimes extra Hands too

Honba - a count of consecutive draws and Dealer wins

Honours - collective term for the Dragon and Wind tiles

Kan - declaration made when calling for a discard tile to make a Kong

Kong - a set of four identical tiles

Kuitan - a rule that allows the Tanyao (All Simples) element on an exposed hand

Limit - a cap applied to high-scoring hands

Limit Hand - a rare hand which is automatically worth maximum points

Major tiles - a collective name for the Terminal and Honour tiles

Meld - (verb) to call Pung/Chow thereby creating an exposed set 
     - (noun) an exposed set

Minipoints - a measure of score awarded for features in a wining hand (also Fu)

Open - descriptive of an exposed set or hand

Points - points are awarded in each Hand, based on Fan and Fu (qq.v.)

Pon - declaration made when calling for a discard tile to make a Pung

Prevalent Wind - this is East in the first round and South in the second

Pung - a set of three identical tiles

Quarter game - a game lasting one round

Red Dora - a special number-five tile marked in red that gives a score bonus

Reverse Dora - a special Dora (q.v.) revealed after a Hand won with Riichi

Riichi - to state that one is "ready", needing one tile to complete the hand

Ron - to declare a win by claiming another player's discard (cf. Tsumo)

Round - four normal Hands (cf. Half Game and Quarter Game)

Scoring Element - a pattern or condition that is worth one or more Fan

Scoring-Stick - a short white stick used like a casino chip to count points

Seasons - four tiles depicting seasons, not used in Japanese Mahjong

Seat Wind - the Wind assigned to a player that changes after each normal Hand

Set - a Pung, Chow or Kong (qq.v.)

Simples - suit tiles marked with numbers between 2 and 8 inclusive

Suit - a "family" of tiles like the four suits in a deck of playing cards

Table rules - optional rules that can be chosen at the start of a game

Tenpai - the state of having a "ready hand", one tile away from being complete

Terminals - suit tiles marked with numbers 1 or 9

Tiles - the pieces used to play the game

Tsumo - to declare a win with a self-drawn tile (cf. Ron)

Two Fan Minimum - a rule applying a score restriction after four extra Hands

Uma - a final exchange of points between players after the final Hand

Wait - an incomplete hand that is "waiting" for the right tile to complete it

Winds - the four Wind tiles are each marked East, South, West or North
      - see also Seat Wind and Prevalent Wind (qq.v.)

Yakuman - a rare hand which is automatically worth maximum points
        - also the name of the top tier in the Limit system

For a complete guide to the rules and terminology of Japanese Mahjong you can
download my PDF guide from the USPML website here:

  http://www.uspml.com/site/downloads.htm  (Barticle's Japanese Mahjong Guide)

------< CONTACT >------------------------------------------------- [Section 16]

I welcome all feedback on this guide and any contributions you'd like to make.
I'm also happy to receive questions about this or any other Mahjong game, or
about the rules and terminology of Japanese Mahjong.

You can email me at barticle at hotmail.com - obviously changing the "at" to an
@ and removing the spaces. It would be helpful if you include the word "Mahjong"
in the subject line and tell me which game you're playing.

------< THANKS >-------------------------------------------------- [Section 17]

I would like to thank the following:-

o ThePatrick, always, for his invaluable and essential Yakuza guides

o XFRod for the early heads-up on the game info and for the money tip

o Sega for keeping the English version pretty much intact this time!

o zavvi.com for getting the game to me one day early

o Wolfgang Voigt for his Gaseous emissions

I will be happy to give credit and thanks to anyone who makes a contribution.
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              /  /                       __      \_/       /  /         
             /   \___ ________ _________/  \__ ___ ______ /  /  ________
.-------o   /  __   / \___   //  ___/\_   ___//  //  ___//  /  /  __   /
| ANOTHER  /  / /  /_____/  //  /     /  /   /  //  /   /  /  /   \/  / 
'---------/  /-/  //  __   //  /-----/  /---/  //  /---/  /--/  _____/---------.
         /  / /  //  / /  //  /     /  /   /  //  /   /  /  /  /         GUIDE |
        /   \/  //   \/  //  /     /   \_ /  //   \_ /   \ /   \________ o-----'
        \______/ \______/ \_/      \____/ \_/ \____/ \___/ \___________/
--
Yakuza 4 Mahjong Guide
Copyright 2011 James R. Barton
Initial version 1.00 completed 18 March 2011
Current version 1.01 completed 12 April 2011

All trademarks and copyrights contained in this document are owned by their
respective trademark and copyright holders.

This guide may be downloaded and printed for personal, private, non-commercial
use only. This work is subject to copyright. It may not be hosted online or
otherwise distributed publically or reproduced either in whole or in part
without the advance written consent of the author. Any violation would
constitute an infringement of copyright and is strictly prohibited.

The only websites with the author's consent to publish this guide are GameFAQs
(www.gamefaqs.com) and its affiliates (i.e. Gamespot).

If you find this file hosted on any other site I would be grateful if you would
inform me at the email address given at the top. Thanks!