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    Bow Guide by Piggy Mog

    Version: 1.0 | Updated: 10/29/12 | Search Guide | Bookmark Guide

       _       _     ____     _      _    _____    ________   _______   ______
      | \     / |   /    \   | \    | |  /  __ \  | _    _ | |  ____ | |  __  \
      |  \   /  |  /  __  \  |  \   | |  \  \ \ \ |/ |  | \| | |    \| | |  \  |
      |   \_/   | |  /  \  | |   \  | |   \  \ \/    |  |    | |___    | |__/  |
      |         | | |    | | | |\ \ | |    \  \      |  |    |  ___|   |    __/
      |  |\_/|  | |  \__/  | | | \ \| | /\  \  \     |  |    | |       |  |\ \
      |  |   |  |  \      /  | |  \   | \ \_/  /     |  |    | |____/| |  | \ \ 
      |__|   |__|   \____/   |_|   \__|  \____/      |__|    |_______| |__|  \_\
           __     __   _      _   _      _   ________   _______   ______
          |  |   |  | | |    | | | \    | | | _    _ | |  ____ | |  __  \
          |  |   |  | | |    | | |  \   | | |/ |  | \| | |    \| | |  \  |
          |  |___|  | | |    | | |   \  | |    |  |    | |___    | |__/  |
          |   ___   | | |    | | | |\ \ | |    |  |    |  ___|   |    __/
          |  |   |  | | |    | | | | \ \| |    |  |    | |       |  |\ \
          |  |   |  | |  \__/  | | |  \   |    |  |    | |____/| |  | \ \
          |__|   |__|  \______/  |_|   \__|    |__|    |_______| |__|  \_\
       ________   ______    _______   _______   _____       ____     _       _ 
      |        | |  __  \  |  ____ | |  ____ | |     \     /    \   | \     / |
      |   _____| | |  \  | | |    \| | |    \| |  __  \   /  __  \  |  \   /  |
      |  |___    | |__/  | | |___    | |___    | |  \  | |  /  \  | |   \_/   |
      |   ___|   |    __/  |  ___|   |  ___|   | |   | | | |    | | |         |
      |  |       |  |\ \   | |       | |       | |__/  | |  \__/  | |  |\_/|  |
      |  |       |  | \ \  | |____/| | |____/| |      /   \      /  |  |   |  |
      |__|       |__|  \_\ |_______| |_______| |_____/     \____/   |__|   |__|
                  _      _   _      _   _______   ________   _______  
                 | |    | | | \    | | |__   __| | _    _ | |  ____ | TM
                 | |    | | |  \   | |    | |    |/ |  | \| | |    \| 
                 | |    | | |   \  | |    | |       |  |    | |___    
                 | |    | | | |\ \ | |    | |       |  |    |  ___|   
                 | |    | | | | \ \| |    | |       |  |    | |       
                 |  \__/  | | |  \   |  __| |__     |  |    | |____/| 
                  \______/  |_|   \__| |_______|    |__|    |_______| 
                                ~Piggy Mog's Bow Guide~
                                      Version 1.0
                            Last Updated:  October 28, 2012.
    Table of Contents
    1)  Disclaimer/Legal crap [Section 1]
    2)  Monster Hunter Freedom Unite introduction [Section 2]
    3)  Why choose a bow? [Section 3]
    4)  Bow basics [Section 4]
            -Camera types
            -Charging the bow
            -Weapon range multiplier
            -Charge levels
            -Bow-related skills
            -Stamina management
            -Regarding to Damage Calculation
    5)  Skills and equipment selection [Section 5]
    6)  FAQs [Section 6]
    7)  Final Thoughts [Section 7]
    8)  Credits [Section 8]
                                     Section 1:
                               ~Disclaimer/Legal Crap~
    This is a weapon faq that analysis bow purely as a weapon class, and targets  
    both beginners and advanced archers, yet does not emphasize individual skills 
    as a player--which means everyone should be able to learn something by reading
    this guide.  Please be aware that I only put information regarding things that
    I have done by myself, therefore, those who are interested to do time attacks 
    should look else where, such as Youtube or Nico Nico.
    I started using bow since Monster Hunter Dos, pretty much by self learning,  
    therefore there are original insights to the weapon.  The exclusion would be  
    general statistics (which are found everywhere, too board to even quote), and  
    damage calculation (written by Boldrin).  If there are any specific information
    regarding to specific quest that are not discovered myself, they would be  
    specified and credits will be given, whether I remember who it is or 
    Please note that when a bow name is mentioned, it refers to the whole upgrade
    path under the same name so it will be suitable to your progress no matter 
    where you are (ex:  "Hunter's Bow" = Hunter's Bow --> Hunter's Bow IV).  If a 
    specific bow is mentioned, usually the final form of the upgrade tree, the full
    name will be specified. Please note that "Courageous Hope" series only gets 
    renamed in the English version.  Originally, it is Courageous Hope I to III, 
    therefore still just "Courageous Hope" but not "Dream" or "Wish" in the guide.
    This guide is written in the practical point of view, so if you are consulting 
    for datebases--for weapon or for monster--please check other guides or websites
    for them.  This guide is long enough even without them.
    If there are any mistakes in the guide or questions about bows, please e-mail
    to piggythefallenarcher@gmail.com.  No questions are bad questions, but insults
    will not only be ignored, but will also be posted and to be seen by the public,
    and I will NOT conceal the sender's identity.  So if you're ready to embarrass
    yourself, be my guest.
    Legal crap:
    This FAQ is writen by Piggy Mog and will be available online ONLY on GameFaqs.
    If any information only found on this guide is used, please contact me first.
                                      Section 2:
                    ~Introduction to Monster Hunter Freedom Unite~
    Monster Hunter Freedom Unite, or Monster Hunter Portable 2nd G in Japan, is the
    final PSP instalment of the second generation Monster Hunter, originated from 
    MH Dos (pronunced "dots", means "2" in Spanish).  It includes all the weapons 
    used in Dos, threw a few more monsters along with Dos' collection--the violent 
    glutton Tigrex and gigantic Akantor in Freedom 2 (P2nd), jumpy Hypnocatrice/
    Hypnoc and huge yet agile Lavasioth/Volganos from Frontier Online, and last but
    not least, its own addition of fast, stealthy Nargacuga and Akantor's icy 
    cousin Ukanlos.
    This particular instalment is probably the most completed 2nd generation MH,  
    along with having the most solo-accessible content available, provided you can 
    get that far.
    Although I have never played Freedom 2 (first MH even tried was P2ndG), bow  
    damage has seemed toned down, namely the Akantor bow, from borderline G rank in
    power during F2 down to actually high rank stats in FU, with the real G rank
    version not much stronger than its previous high rank counterpart.
    Another lament to most western players would be the fact that FU had all  
    Japanese sponsored related content sealed (Famitsu, Dengeki, etc.) and 
    therefore making access to certain weapons impossible (fan-shaped dual swords
    with "Famitsu" written on it everyone?).  Quests originally designed for ticket
    farming would have quest name changed to eliminate references relating to the 
    sponsors (ex:  "Dentegi Festival" -> "Two Shadows at the Swamp").  Fortunately
    the tickets are only dummied out, but not taken away from the game data 
    entirely, therefore it is STILL possible to get them.  However, the only non-
    cheating way to obtain the tickets is to play via online ad-hoc connection 
    (Ad-Hoc Party, X-Link Kai, or MH Tunnel).  Fortunately for archers, the only 
    valuable equipment that is sealed is the Dia Soul Arrow, which is a fired-based
    pierce bow that uses the model for Diablos Horns Bow but red in colour.  Your 
    life won't end without it.
    However...  this faq will introduce P2ndG-only equipment (but will also provide
    a back up equipment selection), so be warned.
                                       Section 3:
                                  ~Why choose a bow?~
    Well, this question is just like any other people asking "why choose a hammer/ 
    GS/LS/etc.?" for other popular weapon classes.  One reason would be the fact
    that very little people appreciate bows (at least before Portable 3rd, but then
    it is more abusing than appreciating it) while they are probably one of the 
    very few true hunting weapons in real life that is portrayed in Monster Hunter.
    Shame they only introduced it in Dos.
    Although many people say it's a very easy class due to its mobility and 
    unlimited arrows, in fact it has some hidden traps leading people to hold it in
    disdain.  The most obvious example would be "why does it takes forever to kill
    stuff with a bow?".  This guide will explain the reasons thoroughly.
                                       Section 4:
                                      ~Bow Basics~
    "I'd really love to use ranged weapons, but the number of Bowgun shells is just
    way too confusing to me...!  There must be hunters thinking this right now. 
    This report is aimed at those hunters, and in this edition, we will cover Bows.
    Many dismiss the Bow as underpowered compared to melee weapons and lacking the 
    variety of the Bowguns, but in reality, the Bow is a deep and complex weapon. 
    Of course, its attacks will not cause stunning damage, and there are only four 
    coatings and thus four arrow types.  However, a Bow's crafting, range and  
    charge attacks surely make up for its shortcomings!"
    ~Hunting Life - A Monthly Magazine For Hunters--
         Tool of the Trade - Range Weapons (Bow)~
    No other description better for the bow is just found right there in the 
    magazine stored in your own hunter's room!  Yes, a bow will never punch as hard
    as a Hammer nor a Great Sword (GS), nor will be able to deal with different 
    situation like a bowgun simply by switching between different ammo.  However, 
    the true beauty of the bow lies in planning ahead and carefully choosing the 
    right bow and skills, along with persistence and endless fire.
    *     *     *
    Just before you starting shooting, we should go over the most basics--how to 
    use it.
    Analog:  Jogging (you can jog while charging the bow)
                -however, you will stand still when your puts the arrows to the bow
    R + Analog:  Running (weapon sheathed)
    Triangle:  Unshethe weapon / Fire arrows (hold down to charge, release to
                 -if you push or hold the Triangle while jogging or running, you'll
                  automatically start charging/shooting
    R Button:  Aim when weapon is unsheathed
                 -You will see a line changing colour (between red and yellow,
                  presumably to add contrast against the background).  It follows
                  the path of the top arrow of rapid charge.
    X Button:  Crawl (standing still, weapon sheathed) /
               Back step (weapon unsheathed, without using the analog) /
               Roll (while moving, weapon sheathed or not)
    Square:  Use items (weapon sheathed) / Same as X (weapon unsheathed)
    O Button:  Melee attack
    Analog + Triangle + O:  Melee attack when weapon is sheathed
    D-Pad:  Camera / Change direction of bow (when R is hold down with bow 
            unsheathed, charging or not)
    L Button:  Move camera to default (to the direction your character is facing)
    Triangle + O:  Equip coatings when weapon is unsheathed and a coating is chosen
                   (coating is selected, but is shown in white)
    L + D-Pad Up or Down:  Coating selection / Unequip coating (if one is equipped)
    <Camera types>
    Unlike melee fighters, the camera may or may not switch when you aim with the 
    weapon.  So let's take a look at the cameras available.
    Type 1 (Default):
    The camera switchs from bird's eye view to viewing from behind your character 
    when then R button is hold down.  The character is still seen, andstands on the
    left side of the screen.
    Type 2 (Dos' default):
    The camera dow not move when you aim.  So in other words, you're aiming just
    like the old school 3rd person game.
    Type 3:  
    This one can be a little awkward.  While it acts just like Type 1 when you aim,
    but the camera will move (not swift) back to default bird's eye view. So if 
    you're the type who tend to tilt the camera at the beginning of the quest just
    like most people do, you should avoid this at all costs!
    <Charging the Bow>
    Charge!  Charge!!  Charge!!!
    The very first key of using a bow is to charge it!  It is the first thing you 
    should do if you plan to kill anything.  An average bow will come with three 
    charge levels, although exceptions exist.  Here are the multipliers based on 
    charge levels.  Note that charge level multipliers apply to ALL shot types and
    shot levels, and would be the most basic guide of how much damage is done.
    Charge 1 (no charge time, just draw and release):
       -Raw:  0.4
       -Element:  0.7 (Boldrin's guide says lower, and other guides say
               differently...  However, I have no means to vertify this)
       -Poison:  0.5
       -Other status:  0.5
    Charge 2 (one charge flash):
       -Raw:  1.0
       -Element:  0.85 (same suspicion as above) 
       -Poison:  1.0
       -Other status:  1.0
    Charge 3 (2 flashes, the final charge level most bow innately have):
       -Raw:  1.5
       -Element:  1.0
       -Poison:  1.5
       -Other status:1.3
    Charge 4 (3 flashes, most bows require armor skill Capacity Up to unlock this):
       -Raw:  1.7
       -Element:  1.125
       -Poison:  1.5
       -Other status:  1.3
    As you can see, charge 3 is superior to level 2 in terms of raw damage by  
    increasing 50% of damage simply by charging a fraction of a second more.   
    Charge 3 is superior to charge 4 in terms of elemental output because of too  
    little percentage of increase between the charges that does not justify the  
    extra charge time.  In the case if the charge 3 is pierce or scatter at level 3
    or above and the charge 4 is rapid, the charge 3 will actually do more 
    elemental damage!
    *     *     *
    <Weapon Range Multiplier>
    Able to manage it all the time is the key to maximize damage output in the raw 
    damage department.  Lucky for those who own FU, visual effects are only added 
    in this instalment.
    There are 4 different range multipliers.  Here's a picture to roughly represent
    it.  I'll use pierce shot as the model as it's easier to follow (for other shot
    types, everything's just shorter).
    The following is just a rough visual representation, but only an estimate:
    H o o o o 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 o o o o X X x x x x x (bow disappears)
    H = Hunter
    o = 1.0X
    Happens if you're way too close or a little too far from optimal range/spot.  
    Razor coatings will make close range's multiplier to 1.3.  You will see mid-
    sized blast and some good smashing sound.
    0 = 1.5X
    You're at good range and optimal damage is done.  You will see large blasts and
    impressive smashing sound.
    X = 0.8X
    You're just a little too far but the arrows still got on the monster somehow.
    Very small light spot seen when hit.
    x = 0.5X
    You're way, way too far.  Arrows bounce off the monster.
    *     *     *
    < Shot Types >
    The other property of the bow you should pay attention to. Each bow has  
    different combination of shot types at different charge levels so choose the  
    bow depending on what shot types charges 2 and 3, or even 4 fire (the charge  
    level you can ignore should only be charge 1).  The basic (and therefore would
    be used most) shot type is rapid, which is a mid-ranged, multi-arrows that hit
    at the very same spot.  The other very commonly used shot type is pierce, a 
    single arrow that hit the monster a couple times.  The very last shot type is 
    scatter, with couple arrows spreading into a fan-shaped patten, that you may 
    avoid using it in the entire life--unless you know its potential.
    Please beware that ranges are only estimates.  Use your judgment to determine 
    whether it is in optimal range or not.
    Now, let's look at the specifics of each shot type.
    1.  Rapid
    This is the most basic shot type, and therefore it is wise to get used to the 
    bow with such bows.  It is capable to kill most small to medium-sized monsters
    unless under certain circumstances.
    Type of arrows:  
    Multiple arrows hitting the same spot, arrows may spread a little sideways as 
    they travel.  It elevates a little while released and will fly lower over 
    Optimum range:  
    Approximately 3 hops or 1.5 roll.
    Optimum spot:
    Approximately half a hop (or 1 step).
    Level 1:
    # of shots - 1
    Damage output - 0.12
    Status points - 13
    Level 2:
    # of shots - 2
    damage output - 0.12 + 0.4 (top to bottom, will be same for other levels)
    Status points - 7 X 2 arrows
    Level 3:
    # of shots - 3
    damage output - 0.12 + 0.4 + 0.3
    Status points - 5 X 3 arrows
    Level 4:
    # of shots - 4
    damage output - 0.12 + 0.4 + 0.3 + 0.2
    Status points - 4 X 4 arrows
    Level 5:
    # of shots - 4
    damage output - 0.12 + 0.4 + 0.3 + 0.3
    Status points - 4 X 4 arrows
    Other than having the extra 1% of damage, rapid 4 and 5's main difference  
    israpid 5's arrows are less likely to weave than level 4's (thanks hunter nya
    for this info).
    Advanced archer's note:
    The top arrows would have better optimum range, while the bottom arrow suffers
    from out of optimum range a little earlier (also it has tendency of missing aim
    and land to a lower hitzone which ALWAYS further), therefore it's a little safe
    to shoot just a step closer and aim *slightly* higher).  Or put it the other
    way, its optimum spot is at the peak of its track.
    2.  Pierce
    This is the other commonly used shot type...  this one just mostly focuses on 
    huge or long monsters, or monsters having concealed weakpoints (they tend to be
    very huge anyway).  They are also excellent in terms of elemental damage output
    for monsters weak against an element all over their body because you get more 
    hits focused on a single track.  This is the only shot type with level being an
    indicator of range.
    Type of arrow:  
    a single arrow that hits a monster a couple times. Its flies a little higher  
    than rapid over range.
    Optimum range: 
    Level 3 - between approximately 1.5 rolls to 2.5 rolls
    Level 4 - between approximately 1.75 rolls to 3.5 rolls
    Level 5 - between approximately 1.75 rolls to 5 rolls
    Optimum Spot:
    It's basically the entire optimum range.
    Level 1:
    # of hits: 3
    Damage output - 0.6 X 3
    Status points - 5 X 3 hits
    Level 2:
    # of hits: 4
    Damage output - 0.6 X 4
    Status points - 4 X 4 hits
    Level 3-5:
    # of hits: 5
    Damage output - 0.6 X 5
    Status points - 4 X 5 hits
    Right... The above DOES say pierce levels 3, 4, and 5 all have the very same
    damage output.  So what is the difference?  Range--with charge 3 with less  
    overall and optimum range (optimum range barely goes over a king size 
    Plesioth), with charge 5 with longest range (you can shoot full powered arrows
    at Lao's back from Area 1, with ease).  
    Advanced archer's note:
    Charge 3 enters optimum range around half a hop closer than pierce 4 and a  
    little more closer than pierce 5.  In other words, pierce 3 is actually better
    for engaging a monster, while pierce 5 is the best if you need to snipe.
    3.  Scatter
    Okay...  Unlike bowgun's pellet shot that would home to monsters' weakpoints,
    your arrows actually do spread, and therefore it is very difficult to hit a 
    monster's weakpoint if it is too small (or getting all hits on a small 
    monster).  Also, its distinctive pathway and advanced range arrangement makes
    it only suggested for advanced archers.  However, once you master it, it is 
    very deadly if you have Scatter Up skill.
    Type of arrows:
    3 or 5 arrows spread horizontally in a fan shape.  Ascends sooner and much  
    higher than other shot types.  However, the peak of the track might not be  
    optimal spot.
    Optimal range:
    Around 1 roll.
    Optimal spot:
    Just half a hop.
    Level 1:
    # of hits:  3
    Damage output:  0.4 + 0.5 + 0.4 (from left to right, with the middle arrow the
    most powerful)
    Status points:  5X3 arrows
    Level 2:
    # of hits:  3
    Damage output:  0.5 + 0.5 + 0.5
    Status points:  6 X 3 arrows
    Level 3:
    # of hits:  5
    Damage putput:  0.4 + 0.5 + 0.5 + 0.5 + 0.4
    Status points:  4 X 5 arrows
    Level 4:
    # of hits:  5
    Damage output:  0.4 + 0.5 + 0.6 + 0.5 + 0.4
    Status points:  4 X 5 arrows
    Level 5:
    # of hits:  5
    Damage output:  0.5 + 0.5 + 0.6 + 0.5 + 0.5
    Status points:  4 X 5 arrows
    Beginner archer's note:
    Unlike the other 2 shot types, the key of success of using it is to AVOID 
    aiming just at the weakpoint, but instead go for landing as many arrows as
    So...  basically using the scatter proficiently already is really really  
    hard...  So unless you need the element of the bow for destruction (namely  
    Blangonga's fangs before you get your hands on Courageous Hope, which is from 
    high rank Teo), you can stick to your old rapid and pierce and kill everything
    unless you're ambitious for TA.
    *     *     *
    < Melee Attack >
    Alright, alright...  Everyone knows you shoot with the bow, but the melee 
    attack is still there for a reason...  Both hits of the combo are slash attacks
    by the way.
    First slash:
    Raw:  0.1
    Status points:  2
    Second slash:
    Raw:  0.24
    Status points:  2
    That's it.  Basically a simple X-shaped 2-hit combo.  They are considered 
    "green sharpness" in terms of determining bouncing.  They will promote to "blue
    sharpness" if you have equipped with razor coatings.
    Uses of the melee attack:
    -OBVIOUSLY its capabilities of cutting a tail.  However, it is completely  
    useless if the monster is holding the tail high up in the air.  However, if you
    are stuck with a bunch of blade-wielding hunters that never reach for the tail,
    perhaps you can take care of the dirty job...
         -I have done it before (in that particular incident, I was teamed with 3 
         hunters, the first one was a bowgunner, the second one used a para SnS and
         the third hunter used a LS doing the same quest a couple times, with me 
         being the main tail cutter all along.  In the "worst" run, the very first 
         hit done by the LS hunter snapped the tail, along with only 1 power 
         coating consumed in the entire quest...  the best part was the melee team 
         was oblivious to how to cut Elder Dragons' tails...).
    -Killing small monsters if you're not using a rapid bow, or the small monster 
    is too strong against shot damage.  The best example of both situations present
    is killing small crabs (resistant to shot damage) while your main target is 
    Gravios (normally you would bring a pierce bow).  If you know you'll encounter 
    this, it's best to keep a single power coating left over just to deal with 
    -Application of paint coatings.  The fact that melee attacks will not consume
    coatings can make your only paint coating unlimited paintballs.  Of course, you
    will have to get personal with the monster.  However, this fact can also allow 
    you to put more damage to a tail if you just save that one coating.  Just read 
    the above case.
    How NOT to use the melee attack:
    -Applying status coatings.  Yes, you won't consume coatings that is, but you  
    only get 2 points per hit along with accumulated status point drop rate of 5  
    points/10 seconds to 10 points/5 sec while a melee attack takes just a little 
    than 2 seconds to execute (plus you will need to jog to a monter)...  It is 
    literally impossible to poison/sleep/para anything just by yourself that has 
    decent resistance or moving all over the place...
         -Of course, if other team members are also pumping the very same status
       toward the monster, that would be another story.
    *     *     *
    < Coatings >
    In order to use a bow efficiently, you'll have to get your hands on them...   
    especially you're killing monsters in a long quest.  So there are the different
    coatings available.
    1.  Power Coatings
       -Usage:  increase raw damage of the bow by 50% (will NOT work for elemental
                damage if said bow has element)
       -Cost:  32z each (1600z for 50)
       -Maximum amount you can carry:  50
       -Mix receipe:  empty bottle + nitroshroom for 1~2 power coatings  (Note:
                   you can carry 20 nitroshroom in your pocket)
    These will be the basic coatings you should be bringing if you're against hard 
    monsters, especially if you're using a raw bow.  Basic for high and G rank 
    quests, so at least buy 50 each time!
    Beginner archer's note:
    Okay, while power coatings are good for everything, they are in fact way too  
    expensive if you have just begun your hunter's life...  So save your zennies to
    make better equipment first and it will serve you in the long run, just like 
    melee hunters.
    2.  Poison Coatings
       -Usage:  poison monster and decrease their HP gradually (please refer to 
            other faqs or sources for poison damage), or negate monster's 
                special effects (Kushala's wind barrior, Teoster/Lunaster's fire
                aura, and Chameleos'sinvisibility)
       -Cost:  17z each (340z for 20)
       -Maximum amount you can carry:  20
       -Mix recipe:  empty bottle + toadstool for 1~2 coatings (you can carry 10
                  toadstool max)
    These can help you damage monster if you run out of power coatings.  Some  
    monsters can suffer significant HP loss while some monsters receive negligible
    damage.  Please refer monster guides for poison damage.  However, gigantic 
    monsters (really huge and no size difference) will not suffer from any status 
    aliments, so watch out.  Last but not least, monster's tolerance of status 
    ailments builds up over time (check monster info as well).
    Also, the bow's element will be replaced by status coatings' effect if 
    3.  Paralyze Coatings
       -Usage:  immobilize monster for a certain period of time
       -Cost:  26z each (520z for 20)
       -Maximum amount you can carry:  20
       -Mix recipe:  empty bottle + parashroom for 1~2 coatings (you can carry
                10 parashroom max)
    These sound great, but they are quite useless if you're soloing...  It might  
    give you a chance to plant a bomb, lay a trap, maybe slash the tail for a few 
    times...  but that's it.  These should really be used if you accompanying a 
    heavy damage team, then para coatings will shine (but then you'll out competed
    if there's a para SnS user or bowgunner who can use para shots in your team, 
    Application caution is just the same as any other status coatings.
    4.  Sleep Coatings
       -Usage:  put monsters to sleep
       -Cost:  17z (340z for 20)
       -Maximum amount you can carry:  20
       -Mix recipe:  empty + sleep herbs for 1~2 coatings (you can carry 10 
             sleep herbs max)
    Okay, so both paralysis and sleep make monster vulnerable, so what's the  
    Monsters take 3 times the damage for the "wake up call attack".  It is  
    particularly useful if you're using sleep bombing tactic (solo or not), or if 
    you have a heavy hitting member (best be GS user).  Abuse the 3X attack, and 
    the monster will be bought down much quicker.
    A very famous arching-bomber has developed his own set of sleep bombing set and
    can clear literally all quests featuring monsters that can be put to sleep.  So
    who's the hunter and what's his equipment?  You go figure out yourself~
    5.  Razor Coatings
       -Usage:  increase melee attack's power (and upgrades "green sharpness" to 
    "blue sharpness" for bouncing), and changes the close range shooting's range 
    multiplier from 1.0X to 1.3X (you see big blasts when shooting close up).   
    However, useless once you're at the bow's actual optimum range or further.
       -Cost:  27z (540z for 20)
       -Maximum amount you can carry:  20
       -Mix recipe:  Empty Bottles + Knife Mackrel for 1~2 coatings (you can 
              carry 20 of them)
    A new coating introduced in P2ndG/FU.  Unfortunately it does not serve an 
    actual purpose other than just being around, probably exist just for the sake 
    for new players who can't handle range multipliers (I only use them while 
    attacking the cracks on Jhen Mohren's back close up in P3rd...).  As for melee
    attack?  How about sticking to the old good power coatings?
    Yes, in other words, this is something you will never need to touch in your  
    entire life.
    6.  Paint Coatings
       -Usage:  painting monsters, obviously
       -Cost:  you can't buy them
       -Maximum amount you can carry:  99 (just like paintballs)
       -Mix recipe:  empty bottles + paintberry for 1~2 coatings (once again 
              much like paintballs)
    Another useless coating.  Okay, you can shoot it really far to paint a monster,
    but don't forget about the time you use to equip it (although Auto-reload cease
    the motion for coating application, but you shouldn't even have Auto-reload for
    bows in the very first place).  Well, you can melee the coating on and cost you
    nothing, but still...
    Honestly, just stick to your plain old paintballs.  If you worry about running 
    out, just plant paintberries in Pokke Farm.
    *     *     *
    < Bow-Related Skills >
    So with the right equipment you will kill things faster.  Now pair them up with
    complementary skills, and things will move even much smoother!
    For the purpose of the guide, it will only cover skills appliable to gunners.
    [Category I:  Attack Skills]
    a)  Rapid Shot Up
    Increase rapid arrow attack by 10%.  Will activate on rapid charges regardless
    of charge level.  This will be your major damage boost especially on G rank 
    b)  Pierce Shot Up
    Increase pierce arrow attack by 10%.  Same as above.
    c)  Scatter Shot Up
    Increase scatter arrow attack by 30%.  Works for all scatter charges.  Armors 
    and accessories counters focus (minus fastcharge points), so you won't pair 
    this up with focus until very late at the game.
    d)  Capacity Up
    Opens hidden charge level.  Works on every single bow except for those having 
    innate 4th charge.
    e)  Straight and True
    Basically Rapid Up + Pierce Up + Scatter Up.
    Sounds great, but consider you need full White Fatalis Z (or abuse Torso Inc  
    armors) and you won't have enough slots to fill a 10-slot skill (so no focus),
    it is rather useless.  If you want to make the armor for whatever reason, make
    the Blademaster version instead.
    [Support Skills]
    a)  Focus
    Decreases charge time by 1/3.  However, there are other uses, the major one is
    stamina management, and increase productivity of elemental bows (10% of  
    elemental damage boost won't outdo more hits over time).
    While it is a great skill, but you should determine whether you qualify to this
    skill yet or not.  Overcharging will render this skill useless.
    Before you using focus, practice shooting arrows as soon as you reach your  
    desired charge level (starting from 3, then 2 if you need said charge).  If you
    can do it consistantly, it's time to include this skill.
    b)  Runner
    Decreases stamina drainage by 1/3.
    c)  Power/Poison/Paralysis/Sleep/Razor Coating Add
    Enables a bow to use a specific coating otherwise cannot equip without the  
    skill.  But honestly, stick to the bows that can use the said coatings unless
    you really need it (like adding poison to Wing Bow or adding sleep to Wolf Bow,
    as both bows already have increased effect of the original status coating they
    use, then it would make sense).
    d)  Reload Speed+/- (3 levels each)
    Speeds up or slows down the action of coating application.  Higher level makes
    it faster/slower.
    Quite useless for archers.  I have posted a comment in the past regarding this
    about bowgunners vs. archers in terms of the usefulness of reload skills...
         -My point was bowgunners need to reload all the time, while archers only 
          need to apply coatings a few times in the entire quest.  Yes, so why 
          bother if you are sticking to the bow?
    e)  Auto-Reload
    Coating is automatically equipped just by selecting it.
    Totally useless for archers for the same reasons above.  Pick other skills  
    f)  Ammo Deviation Up/Down
    Affects how well arrows stay on track over range.  Mostly affects rapid bows.
    This is another useless skill as arrows begin to really lose track after the  
    optimal spot.  So just keep your distance and you should be fine, or stick to a
    bow that shoots rapid 5 instead.
    g)  Bullet Limit
    Ensures maximum numbers of coatings turn up in each mix.
    Applies to all coatings you use, very useful if you're doing a long quest if  
    you do not have the best setups yet.
    *     *     *
    < Stamina Management >
    Since you need to charge the bow, and charging the bow requires stamina, so you
    must learn how to use your stamina efficiently in order to success using a bow.
    Basically, the stamina bar drains a lot when you use a bow--as you run, charge,
    roll or back hop...  You just gotta watch yourself!
    Since it is impossible to tell hunters what to do exactly and sometimes 
    situation calls, these are just tips and guidelines to help you reserving your
    stamina, not exactly a Bible.
    Things you can do to reserve your stamina:
    -Keep your eyes on the stamina bar at ALL times.  Forget about how TA videos 
    try to hide the health and stamina bars (not to mention they ALWAYS use mega 
    juices, so stamina management is not their concern), it is YOU that see the 
    bars for yourself, so who cares?
    -Bring stamina recovery items.  It does not mean you need to bring Power/Mega
    Juices at all times.  What it means is it is a good idea to keep your stamina
    at 150 most of the time.
    -Avoid overcharging the bow.  It will only drain your stamina until you have no
    more strength to hold it longer.  Practice so you can shoot your arrows and hit
    somewhere once you reach charge 3 consistently.
    -Try not to run away from large monster for too long.  The only purpose of 
    panic running is so that you can perform superdive.  You can save the running
    (R button) for the last second until you need to dive.
    -Use Focus armor skill.  Less charge time = less stamina used in the process,
    it's that simple.  Just make sure you are don't overcharge without it before
    moving on using focus.
    -Release arrows or roll away ASAP if you find you are still charging the bow  
    but not going to shoot anything.  Normally you can just release the arrows, but
    rolling can save whatever coatings you have equipped.
    Things to avoid:
    -Bring power/mega juices at ALL quests.  While it is totally understandable for
    specific quests (such as soloing Gaoren urgent at the Town), but all quests?
    You need them for dromes and Yian Kut-Ku?  That's a really long way to go...
    -Using runner skill, enough said.  Using it means you will never learn it.
    -Moving your character around with rolling.  Since you got all the mobility you
    need, so why bother?
    *     *     *
    "Powerful charge attacks and tons of variation in flight types, not to mention
    a distinctive attack style and crafting process.  It is no wonder Bows are such
    a mysterically revered weapon.  Don't you want to rise to the challenge  
    ~Tools of the Trade - Ranged Weapons (Bow)~
    Hopefully you get the hang on the different charge types and understand what to
    choose depends on what you need.
    *     *     *
    <Regarding to Damage Calculation >
    Although damage calculation is a critical skill in order to find out whether  
    particular weapon and armor skills works with a monster or not, but since this
    guide is about learning to use a bow in the practical sense, please refer to  
    Boldrin's Bow Damage Guide for details, as he has covered the topic 
                                       Section 5:
                            ~Skills and Equipment Selection~
    There are two facts that will disappoint fans:  the best bow sets will almost
    always involve Rajang parts, especially if you want focus, therefore impossible
    to obtain unless you're at HR9 (unless you got helpers or cheat), and all the
    best bow sets are mixed sets.  The only two good full sets are Puppet Master
    Shin for raw rapid bows and Silver Sol Z for pierce bows.  Sorry to fashion
    Fortunately, bow is Rajang's bane, so it should not be too bad.
    < Part I:  Armor Sets>
    While some of the armor sets have each armor posted, however, some of them will
    only have skills posted because too many combinations are available.  Please
    download program "Athena's A.S.S. (Armor Set Search)" to find out what's
    suitable for you.
    [Low Rank]
    Okay, not impressive at this level...  Your main focus would be getting either
    one of these:
    -Rapid/Scatter/Pierce up
    -Attack Up (mostly small to medium, for low rank, they are major damage boost)
    -Elemental Attack Up
    So basic, any combination of the 2 of them will last you the entire rank.  No 
    special setup necessary.
    Good early armor sets (copied and pasted from my previous post on Gamefaqs,  
    easy-to-farm versions are posted):
    Rapid - Battle Cap, Hunter, Battle, Hunter, Battle will give you rapid up 
      and AUS 
               -for low rank, it's probably the best supplement attack skill you
             can get, and stick to Tiger Bow as soon as you get it - the    
     upgraded low rank version is good enough for high rank. This armor 
                set is the earliest decent bow set you can get in very early of the
                game, and you won't even need to farm. Get this as soon as you can
                (but the bow comes in some time later).
    Pierce - full ceanataur, or Cean cap, Rathalos, Rathalos, Rathalos and Cean
         legs to add AUS
    Scatter - Ioprey Cap, Genprey, any 2-slot armor, Rathalos, Rathalos would give
              you pellet up and AUS
    Element - Kut-Ku Helm D, Kut-Ku D, Rathalos, Kut-Ku D, Kut-Ku D gives EAU 
        and AUM
    Anything focus - you won't really need it until G rank unless you're bow only,
                     strictly for Lao and Gaoren (especially latter in Town, and
                     you'll STILL need adrenaline+2 or heroics). Instead of 
                     wasting time to farm Kushalas at low rank, just move on to   
                     high rank.
    [High Rank]
    Not much of a difference than in low rank, however, containing 2 of the above 
    suggested skills is now a must for this rank.  Top it up with Reckless Abandon
    to spice things up.
    Good high rank skills combinations (no weapon slots needed):
    1.  Rapid Up + AUL or Rapid Up + Focus
    2.  Focus + Pierces Up + AUS (requires Kushala Snarl S) or upgrade to AUM
     with a 2-slot bow
           -note:  focus will benefit elemental bow's output because the attributes
                   aren't that high yet
    3.  Scatter Up + AUL
    4.  Rapid Up + EAU + RA+1 (upgrades to RA+2 with a 2-slot bow)
    [G rank]
    Alrighty...  Now you're up there at G rank...  It is when you should get 
    serious about getting something decent.  You won't get anything impressive at
    this point yet, but you should be able to get something that would last you
    until the highest Hunter Rank.
    The good old high rank sets are good enough for here...  Just don't die.
    Not much going on either...  You may swipe your fragile armor into G rank 
    armor, or upgrade one skill or two of what you already have...
    However, there is one strategy to overcome bad armor skills selection, and 
    ~Sleep Bombing~
    This is it!  If your bow lacks power?  Just use the good old bombs.  The trick
    is to abuse the 3X attack multiplier for the attack that wakes up the monster.
    Basically, you use sleep coating to put the monster the sleep, place LBB+ 
    beside them, then detonate the bombs by shooting the bombs (or whatever method
    you like, but the arrows are the most economic).  Then rinse and repeat.
    Please keep in mind that even if you place 2 bombs at the same spot, only one 
    of them will counted for the 3X multiplier.
    As for the armor sets, please refer to specialized armor sets below.
    Yup.  As mentioned above, you NEED to be HR9 to get the best armor sets...   
    sometimes it's only because of the gems!! 
    Anyway, this is when mixing armors get the most fun~
    Even at the highest rank, you'll still need to select your shot type.  You  
    can't escape this fate if you choose to be an archer.  As usual, rapid is your
    basic shot type and will be covered first.
    1.  Full Pupper Master Shin
    Skills:  Focus, Rapid Up, Stealth, Dragon Defense+5, any 10-point skills (and  
    the negative skill that comes with the gems, if you have a slot in the bow, you
    can neutralize it by putting the counter gem in the bow)
    This is probably the first rapid set you should be getting.  You might thought
    "just Rajang huh?  It's not that hard!" as bow is Rajang's bane.  But 
    unfortunately, all the dark looking pieces require G rank Kushala scales.  So 
    if you're doing solo, you'll have to kill the HR8 Lao Shan Lung first (meaning
    you'll also need to clear all G*1 and G*2 epic quests).
    2.  Barrage Piercings + Puppet Master Shin + Malkuva Z
    Skills:  Capacity Up, Focus, Rapid Up, Item Usage Increase
    Setup (no weapon slot needed):
    Barrage Piercing
    Puppet Master Shin (StrongShot jewelX2)
    Makluva Z (RapidCharge jewel)
    Puppet Master Shin (StrongShot jewelX2)
    Makluva Z (StrongShot+)
    Okay guy, so look at this one...  You get capacity up with it!!  The only 
    catch?  You'll need to do some fishing along with getting Barrage Piercing,  
    which is done by completing all 50 battle trainings (5 weapons per 10 
    monsters).  But don't worry, these trainings are all about basic tactics.  Just
    observe how others kill monsters with these other weapons, practice, and you  
    should be able to get it.
    Best paired with bows with rapid in both charges 3 and 4 (Exterminator Bow and
    Courageous Hope series), a MUST for Akantor Bow!
    3.  Pre-Exterminator Bow II Rapid Armor Set
    Skills:  Focus, Rapid Up, Attack Up Medium (no slot needed)
    Ideal Bow:  Wolf Bow
    This is designed for those who have reached far enough, yet doesn't have enough
    luck for the Big Elder Dragon Jewel for the Exterminator Bow II (the first BEDJ
    should be spent on Akantor Chaos Bow so you can kill Elder Dragons more 
    effectively).  Its Poison Coating Add will make poisoning monsters easier.
    Pierce bows are really useful for those monsters that are very large or long,
    or have concealed weakpoints.  But for pierce bows, you only need *one*
    skills combination, elemental bow or not.
    Skills:  Focus, Pierce Up, Attack Up Large
    That's it.  This is your almighty pierce bow set as long as your bow is 
    reasonably strong enough.  Elemental bows with pierce at charge 3 will be 
    benefited more by these skills.
    The downside?  You'll need to farm Rathalos Heavenlies for at least 3 Silver  
    Sol Z armors for this to work.  The best versions go like this (so you can use
    some of these armors for other armor sets).  Just look at how the armors are
    shared together...
    0-slot version:                          1-slot version (can't be searached
                                             with Athena's A.S.S.): 
    No weapon slot needed                    1-slot bow (Pierce jewel)
    Kushala Snarl S (ShortChargeX2)          Golden Hair Tie Shin (ShortChargeX2)
                        Silver Sol Vest Z (Pierce jewelX2)
                        Silver Sol Guards Z (Pierce jewelX2)
                        Silver Sol Coat Z (RapidCharge jewel)
    Diablo Leggings X (1 Attack, 1 Pierce)   Diablo Leggings X (Fierce jewel)
    Difference between them would be defense.  The combination with Golden Shin  
    plus Armorcharm+Talon will push the defense to 400!  Nothing will get in your
    way with this armor!
    For scatter, you will probably need more hunting skills than armor skills.   
    Regardless, there are 2 very useful setups for scatter bows.
    1.  Heavy Attack Scatter Set
    Skills:  Focus, Scatter Up, Atack Up Small or Reckless Abandon+1
    The only scatter bow set that contains speed and power.  Choose between AUS or
    RA+1 depending on your affinity luck.
    2.  High Grade Earplugs Scatter Set
    Skills:  HGE, Scatter Up, Evade+1
    This is mazereon's anti-Diablos pellet LBG set, also exclusively used against
    [Specialized Armor Sets]
    These armor sets are specially tailored for specific monster, but they are also
    very effective against them.  Some of them have only one combination.  Let's
    look at them.
    1.  Anti-Fatalis Bow Set
    Barrage Piercings
    Lava X (RapidCharge Jewel)
    Hermitaur Z (fill slots Bombardier Jewels)
    Lava X (fill slots with Bombardier Jewels)
    Torso Inc
    Skills:  Capacity Up, Focus, Guts, Bomber
    This is the only setup that requires no weapon slot.  It is designed to pair  
    with Akantor Bow and Dragon Bow Earth series.  Especially tailored for Crimson
    and White Fatalis' Armor Mode and prevent random one shots.  Beware Crimson is
    far more dangerous because the heat will kill you if cool drink's effect is 
    gone right after Guts skill's activation.  Available only at HR9.
    2.  Dragonhead Harp Set
    i)  Guts version (3-slot elemental bow needed...  wait, that's DHH!!)
    Skills:  Capacity Up, Focus, EAU, Guts (as mentioned above, 3-slot bow needed,
             making this set exclusively designed for this bow.
    ii) Evade version
    Skills:  Capacity Up, Focus, EAU, Evade+1 (possible with a 2-slot bow)
    This set is targeted toward weter-weak monsters, especially Black Gravios.  It
    is capable to kill the full HP version in rough 16 minutes with only 50 power
    coatings and felyne meal.  Choosing between Guts and Evade+1 depends on how 
    well you can roll roars with Evade.  You'll need Barrage Piercings though.  
    Both available only at HR9 (and so does Gravios).
    3.  Sleep Bombing Sets
    Choice of bow:  Wing Bow IV, as the armor sets are only available at HR8, and
    this bow's final upgrade is at the same rank, making them the perfect match.
    They will help you to clear all G rank Epic Quests.
    i)  Offense-oriented
    Skills:  Bomber, Rapid Up, Bullet Limit, AUM
    It's what it's said on the tin...  An armor set built based on Rathalos X armor
    that contains Bomber for the big punch, Rapid Up and Attack Up for raw damage 
    output, plus more coatings to push more sleeps and power coatings.  You can 
    upgrade Attack Up Medium to Large, but you'll need a Rathalos Heavenly Scale
    for the Cap (you'd better save it for Silver Sol Z armor).
    ii) HGE version
    Skills:  Bomber, AUM, HGE
    Still paired with Wing Bow.  However you lose most of your offensive skills for
    trading into HGE.  You get the most benefited only against Diablos.
    3.  Anti-Elder Dragon Survival Set
    Bow:  Akantor Chaos Bow (as this is the only dragon bow that has both rapid 
    charge and a weapon slot; if you really don't get luck on the jewels, the high
    rank version still does okay job)
    Skills:  Capacity, Focus, Evade+1, Guts
    Given the nature of general Elder Dragon battle (they flee after certain 
    amountof damage is done on them), that means you do not need to maximize 
    damage output, but instead to survive the battle.  Specifically designed for 
    HR9 Elder Dragons, you will still be able to kill one in 2 quests (only those 
    who are very skilled can kill one in a single quest, regardless of weapon 
    4.  Extreme Defensive Set
    Skills:  Focus, Evade+2, Evade Dist Up
    The ultimate evade set.  But since it is heavily based on evasion, you may want
    to avoid using it for quests full of durable monsters.
    <Part 2:  Bow Selection>
    Just like armor, you do not need to make every single bow in the game to get 
    to the end.  In fact, it is *wise* to avoid crafting some of them to save you
    zennies, materials, and the frustration (and probably regret) after you created
    [Low Rank]
    <Bows you should get>
    a) Hunter's Bow
    More like "bow you already have".  You start off with this.  There is no 
    denying you will stick to it for a little while before you make better bows.
    b) Kut-Ku Bow
    Your fire bow of the rank.  If you're not comfortable bow for using scatter at
    this point, use it only against Blangonga for breaking his fangs.
    c) Blango Bow and Sonic Bow
    Your ice and thunder (respectively) rapid bows for the rank.  Their raw powers
    are as good as Hunter's Bow, and you can just skip your crappy bow as soon as 
    you get sufficient upgrades.
    d) Daimyo Warbow
    Unlike the other elemental bow, this one is pierce.  It is your major anti-
    Gravios family bow.
    e) Dragon Bow Halo
    This is the pierce bow of the rank (especially if you get it early).  Your 
    firstElder Dragon bow (although you won't be fighting the said Elder Dragon 
    until MUCH later and this bow is just made of scrapes of materials grown on 
    it).  It is the ealiest useful one you can craft at low rank, and will turn 
    Plessy into sashimi.  The catch is you'll need to send Trenya for Dragonwood 
    by giving him Pokke points...
    f) Dragon Bow Earth
    Probably the second Elder Dragon bow you'll get.  Maybe or maybe not your first
    dragon bow.  Scatter is a little weird for new archers, but it's here.  Its 
    true beauty will shine after both it and you grow to the fullest.
    e) Prominence Bow
    Finally a even more decent pierce bow.
    g) Tiger Bow
    Don't let the -30% affinity deceived you.  It is in fact he best raw rapid bow
    you can get for the rank.  Keep upgrade it and it can guide you through high 
    rank.  Enough said.
    <Bows that are okay to craft>
    a) Blue Blade Bow
    A raw pierce bow.  It actually has higher raw than the others bows (including 
    future upgrades).  You just don't really need it and it requires farmingShogun 
    Ceanateurs (the task is a pain in the ass for archers because it is essentally 
    bullet resistent).
    b) Black Bow I
    Dragon pierce bow.  Useful element, but bow of its raw and elemental attribute
    are scale lower than than any other bows of the same rank.  Not exactly costly
    to craft whatsoever (you only need some Elder Dragon Bones for its materials). 
    However, upgrading it to BB II is costly (needs an Elder Dragon Blood).  One of
    its final upgrade is one of the best raw rapid bow in the world.  However, the 
    cost of crafting the said bow in high rank form is actually less expensive than
    upgrading it form there, so YMMV...
    <Bows to avoid>
    a) Wild Bow (made from Conga materials because the lack of power coatings and 
    low potential in future upgrades).
    b) Tuna Bow (scatter bow with paralyze add, avoid this purely because of poor 
    upgrade path.  Better save your tunas for the G version)
    *     *     *
    [High Rank]
    <Bow you should get>
    a) Just upgrade almost everything you already have in low rank.  That refers to
    Kut-Ku Bow, Blango Fur Bow (later Abominable Bow), Sonic Bow, Daimyo Warbow, 
    Dragon Bow Halo (later DB Solar), Prominence Bow (your anti-Lao and Gaoren 
    b) Tigrex Whisker (yes, I NEED to specify this)
    It is in fact the upgrade of Tigrex Bow at high rank.  It is specifically 
    mentioned because of the other upgrade path into Hidden Bow is the one you
    need to avoid.  Scroll down and see why.
    This bow is enough to guide you for early G rank until you get much better 
    bows (sadly, this is the last upgrade you'll needly for this bow).
    c) Courageous Hope
    Probably your third Elder Dragon Bow you can get.  In fact, it is very easy to
    craft and there is no reason why you shouldn't include it in your collection. 
    Although its elemental department is so crappy, but from the point of you
    getting our hands on it, it will become your MAJOR anti-Blangonga bow. Use it
    against him and amusement ensures.
    Sidenote:  you guys are lucky.  This bow is always scatter across the MH
    universe except the portable series.  Yes, Kut-Ku Stave is also scatter all
    over the place.  Sure Capcom hates fire bows *that* much.
    d) Wing Bow
    That's it!!  Your ultimate sleep bow.  Although its raw is a bit low, but its
    true beauty is its capability of letting you doing more sleep bombings than
    any other bow.
    e) Akantor Bow
    Another bow you should really get.  Okay, it's been toned down seriously from 
    Freedom 2, but doesn't mean it has lots its purpose.  In fact it is still
    your most useful dragon rapid bow.  You'll just need armor skill Capacity Up to
    unlock its full potential.
    <Bows that are okay to craft>
    a) Exterminator Bow I
    Yup, it is just one upgrade before THE rapid bow.  Believe or not, you won't 
    need its high rank version.  It would just sit there until that final
    upgrade.So if you don't want to make it at high rank, you don't need to.
    <Bow you should avoid>
    Hidden Bow
    Just the exact opposite of Tigrex Whisker, you get 50% affinity with this, 
    and you can use all types of coatings.  However, its damage output is so low 
    and because actual damage done by this bow is laughable comparing to them once
    you do your math, don't waste time for this and just make the high rank update
    for Tigrex Bow II into Tigrex Whisker instead.  AVOID IT AT ALL COSTS!!
    *     *     *
    [G rank]
    a) Exterminator Bow II
    This is it!  This is your ultimate raw rapid bow.  Who cares if you can't use
    status coatings?  Get Capacity Up to unlock its full potential.
    b) Wolf Bow
    The unlucky hunter's ultimate raw rapid bow.  Has poison add.
    c) Gale Horn Bow/Diablos Kings Bow
    The ultimate raw pierce bow for the final upgrade.  Yes, it can't use anything
    other than power coatings, but once again, who cares?
    d) Akantor Chaos Bow
    Another one that needs to be specified.  Has rapid at charge 3, it makes the 
    best standard anti-Elder Dragon bow.  Make sure you spend your VERY FIRST 
    Ukanlos Stone on it!!
    e) Purple Emperor
    Your one and only water rapid bow.  In fact, it is just the final (and awesome)
    upgrade of Daimyo Warbow.  Gravios family, Red Khezu and Rathalos will cry in 
    front of it.
    f) Dia Sorute Arrow (if anyone can translate it accurately, please let me know)
    THE fire pierce bow is right there!  ...except you'll need 4 Dengeki 2G 
    So what do you do?  Play via Ad-Hoc Party or Xlink Kai with people who have
    P2ndG to get this ticket.  You won't even need to deal with the Devil Diablos
    for the tickets, just the Khezu + Kirin event epic quest.
    <Bows that are okay to craft>
    a) Sonic Bow IV
    Yup.  The final upgrade is simply subpar to those of other elements.  Too bad
    it is also true for its G weapon counterpart...
    b) Khezu Bow
    I first thought this bow is quite powerful, but turns out I was wrong.  Yes,
    it has high elemental attribute and I can kill a G rank Gold Rathian in under
    20 minutes, but so what?  The unfortuate fact that its charge 3 is at scatter
    means it's going to be overshadowed by Dragon Bow Chaos.  Also, final upgrade
    can be annoying for some people (requires Garuga Silver Pelts).
    c) Rajang Bow
    Okay, so you think a bow made out of the infamous Saiyan is great?  Turns out
    it's not.  Its poor raw and no-so-great elemental attribute (only better than 
    Couragous Hope) means its performance is going to be subpar.  Although its 3rd
    and 4th charge are rapid and pierce respectively, but that can be replaced by
    Ancient Dragonwood Bow (the shot types of those charge levels are just the
    opposite).  If you have spare Rajang materials, by all means craft it.  But
    if you're dedicated in armor set creation, you'll find yourself making more 
    Rajang armors than you think.
    d) Ukanlos Bow
    This bow is...  let's say overshadowed by awesome (Exterminator Bow II).  This
    is when negative affinity burdens a weapon (384 with 30% affinity vs. 432 
    with-40% affinity).  It can only beat Exterminator Bow II's charge 4 only if is
    accompanied with AUM and the monster it's dealing is weak to ice...
    Of course, you don't need the Barrage Piercing for its charge 4...  It's just
    that only its charge 4 (borderline charge 2 because it's also rapid) is 
    useful...  And yet you need to use an Ukanlos stone...
    <Bow you should avoid>
    Glorious Victory II
    2 reasons why you should avoid this even it is rapid at charge 3 andhas high
    dragon attribute.
    -It can't use power coatings.
    -The levels of its rapid charges are too low (level 2 for charge 3 = 2 arrows; 
    level 3 for charge 4 = 3 arrows), therefore its actual elemental output isn't
    that high.  Use 50 power coatings with the other 2 dragon bows, and both of
    them will outdo this one.
    Do you want to spend 3 BEDJs on a crappy bow, or 2 on TWO much useful bows?
    You decide.
    -The third one can be spent for Daora's Sagittarii.  It's still going to be 
    more productive than Glorious Victort II.
    [Post Uka]
    a) Black Bow G
    Finally, the dragon pierce bow comes back just as strong as any other elemental
    bows of the same rank.  In fact, its low cost (Commendation S + Big 
    Wyvern Stones + Black Pieces + Pokke Tickets??) already justifies its
    b) Diablos Horn Bow G
    If you don't have any luck to farm Stout Black Diablos Horns (but you get the 
    other), this is your luck day!  With only 10% less affinity and 10 less points
    of defense increase than the regular G rank version you can craft one of the
    most powerful pierce bow (at charge 3).  The game is generous by giving you the
    weapon slot just like the same coloured weaker version, making skills mixing a
    bit easier (check out the 1-slot version G rank pierce set to maximize its
    c) Daimyo Warbow G
    Your answer for an ideal anti-Black Gravios if you're afraid to get personal
    and can't stand 4th charge or can't get Barrage or White Fatalis armor.  This
    one has weaker element than Dragonhead Harp III, but you can shoot pierce at
    charge 3 to balance things out.  Just like its lower rank counterpart, it can
    use all status coatings for your advantage (poison and sleep bombing).
    d) Tuna Bow G
    Finally this is the version that's worth it.  Its raw power is actually still 
    low, but the fact of it containing 3 slots would make armor mixing easier if
    not more interesting.  Personally I don't use it at all, but I've seen its
    potential against G rank Diablos on YT videos.
                                      Section 6:
                             ~Frequently Asked Questions~     
    Q:  The monster guide section is way too long...  So in general, shat shot type
        should I use?
    Depends on the monster.  Basically pay attention to its weakpoint's size and  
    If it's small such as a head or the feet?  Use rapid.  
    If it's very huge or long, choose pierce.
    If its weakpoint is huge, or you're engaging the monster at all times?   
    Of course more than one shot type can be used on each monster.  Get familiar  
    with different shot types first, then use whatever you feel the most  
    comfortable with.
    Q:  Is capacity up necessary?
    Depends, unless you're using the Dragonhead Harp.  This bow DEPENDS on it (who
    wants to use the level 1 rapid on charge 3 of a bow that has high  
    elementalattribute but crappy raw?) and is one of the major Black  
    Graviosslayer.  Theother one would be Akantor Bow because it unlocks its charge
    3rapid (which isthe charge level that should be used the most frequently in the
    very firstplace), along with its decent raw + element + shot level (rapid 5 in
    finalform!) + affinity (+40% everyone), it makes the perfect dragon rapid bow.
    As for the other bows, it's the best idea to use something that has the very 
    same shot type between charge 3 and charge 4 for flexibility's sake  
    (ex:Exterminator Bow or Courageous Hope lines for rapid and any Shogun bows for
    pierce). Of course, if the charge 4 of any bow would do far more damage than 
    any other bow choice (better than charge 3 by DoT and charge 4 by DoS), by all 
    means to do that.
    Q:  If charge 4 already depends on the situation, how about charge 2?
    Charge 2's best application is for elemental damage.  Ideally for pierce  
    (youget 5 hits start from charge 3, easily getting 5 hits per charge).   
    However,its application is rather limited so it's best to experiment with it.
    Of course, if a monster is fleeing, then just release the arrows and just let  
    them hit it.  Hitting something is better than nothing is done.
    Essentially, the usage of every charge level is situational-based.  It's just 
    that using charge 3 would be consider under normal condition.
    Q:  Is pierce just good for huge monsters?  How about if I have minions but my 
        main target is something huge?
    Yes, you can kill small mosnters with pierce with clean shot.  The only catch 
    is the first hit or second (if its prey-sized) staggers the monster and sends 
    it flying, the all the hits will land on the poor monster.  Unfortunately, it 
    is not possible in P3rd.
    You can always use the melee attack, by the way.
    Q:  What does it take forever to kill a monster?
    Many reasons.  The general ones would be poor skills selection, wrong shot 
    types, wrong element, and bad stamina management (then you can't shootanymore),
    and spamming the wrong charge level (aka charge 1). 
    Other critical reasons would be charging for too long (therefore decreases  
    attack frequency) and range management.  Although range multiplier is 
    introduced in every single bow guide, but this factor is overlooked by many, 
    many people, especially ignorant noobs!
    Another main reason is monster manipulation.  Both GS and hammer can stagger 
    monsters easily and really skilled hunters can control when to stagger the
    monster (hammer can even knock them out!) while archers are shooting monsters
    while they are still acting like nothing hit them until that stagger comes.  
    Not to mention staying mid-ranged instead of close-ranged to monsters would
    alsoaffect how they act (prime suspect being Tigrex).
    I have already did an Excel file comparing all monster weakpoints (exclusion 
    exist as some "weakpoints" are not reachable for melee hunters, such as  
    Lao'sback, or Kut-Ku's torso as attacks would get registered in other parts 
    instead...  in such cases, the most reached body part is chosen instead), and  
    both the mean and median are similar.  Some numbers used for slash hitzones are
    mostly appliable for GS users, and some are more favourable to SnS and  
    SSbecause it's impossible to balance between them.
    The same apply for P3rd.  There is some minor decrease in terms of melee 
    output, but those are relatively negligible.
    Except Akantor and Ukanlos.
    While Akantor and Ukanlos take 25% less impact damage on the head in P3rd, 
    Akantor takes 62.5% more shot damage before chest opened and 75% after the  
    chest's destroyed  than FU.  Ukanlo's case is even more exaggerating...  It's
    62.5% extra damage taken before chest opened and 133.33% after the chest  
    is opened!!  Also, having the shot weakpoint moved to the head makes the whole
    battle much easier (who wants to shoot huge monster's tail and hind legs??)
    Guess the best explanation of much faster time between FU and P3rd (excluding
    Akantor and Ukanlos for obvious reason) would be bow sets are now on par to 
    melee sets in terms of getting power boost.  In the past, it's either focus or
    attack up, but in 3rd, you get both of them with capacity up, along with  
    Exploiter (but for melee users, they already get sharpness+1, AUL, RA+2/3 in  
    the same package in FU, while bows don't have the same equivalent), and the  
    introduction of High-Angled Shot, negating monster's distance and direction 
    (also, in AT, it's ALWAYS Gocused).
    Also monsters don't get KO'd as easily in P3rd as in FU, so less monster  
    manipulation possible for hammer users.
    Of course, people getting more experienced between the instalments also helps.
    Q:  I plan to use the bow, should I prepare to farm for power/mega juices      
    every couple quests?
    The answer is no (the only exception is if you're trying to KILL the Lao Shan  
    Lung in high rank Gathering Hall in a solo bow only run without adrenaline, or
    Gaoren of the same rank even with adrenaline), or if you're doing a TA  
    (obviously, as waiting stamina to recover = wasting time).  Don't bother to put
    runner in your skill list, as you really won't need it.
    If you don't have the ambition of killing things fast, try the following:
    a)  Try not to overcharge the bow for too long and too often.  Holding it much
    longer isn't going to make it much stronger, but instead drain your stamina bar
    and make you immobile.
    b)  Use focus not just for the faster charging, but also take advantage of its
    capability of making the stamina bar drain less.  Yes, you'll need to avoid  
    overcharging for this to work.
    Q:  Should I use attack up or Rapid Up/Pierce Up/Scatter Up?
    Depends on your bow's raw power.  Attack up's boost goes like this...
    Small - 10 X 1.2 (bow's weapon multiplier) = 12 points
    Medium - 15 X 1.2 = 18 points
    Large - 20 X 1.2 = 24 points
    And rapid up would be 10% of increase of whatever bow's raw would be.  So in  
    order for the bow to increase the best benefit...
    If the bow's raw is... 
       -under 120 - AUS
       -120 to 179 - AUM
       -180 to 239 - AUL
       > 240 - rapid up
    Of course, if you attack up skill is not up to scale, it's better to get Rapid
    Up, or even better, both sepecially if you're at lower ranks.
    Scatter up is different.  Instead of getting just 10%, it's 30%.  Why would you
    choose "mediocre" damage boost instead of 30%?  Of course, if you can't get 
    your hands on focus along with it (impossible until HR9), just add attack up  
    along with it.
    Q:  What is quick release?  Is it the same as focus?
    They are not the same thing.  It was discovered by Great Sword users that  
    releasing the 3rd charge before the charge flash appeared so they can attack  
    faster.  It can be done because the the weapon has reached the charge level  
    before the emitting the flash.  Quick release is to release the charge between
    that gap.  Just the same thing can be done by bows, and it can easily tested by
    using a bow with different shot types between charge levels.
    Q:  Why do you insist Hidden/Midnight Bow is useless?
    That is where math kicks in...  It's better explain things this way without 
    words...  So here are the actual power each G rank raw pierce bow does (from 
    weakest to strongest):
    Wild Bow G - 336
    Power Wild Bow G - 360
    Heart Shot Bow III - 336 X (1.125*0.3 + 0.7) = 361.2
    Midnight Bow - 324 X (1.125*0.5 + 0.5) = 364.5
    Showroom Model - 372 (0% of affinity, however, this one has innate charge 4)
    Diablos Horn Bow G - 372 X (1.125*0.1 + 0.9) = 381.3
    Diablos King Bow - 372 X (1.124*0.2 + 0.8) = 390.6
    If you insist that Showroom Model doesn't use so many types of coatings, but 
    honestly, if you insist to use status coatings, there are other bows that would
    do better job than this.
    As for its level 4 charge of rapid 5?  How about sticking to Exterminator Bow 
                         ~Beating Monster Hunter Quest at HR1!~
    Okay...  everyone have probably seen those impressive videos of some hunters  
    clearing the Monster Hunter quest at HR1 (along with HR1 gear, duh) on Youtube
    with Hammer.  But consider how everyone complains about bows lacking the punch,
    and with poor skills for the rank being, how can you even not risk running out
    of time?
    The answer is...  It's POSSIBLE!!!  
    Not without careful equipment and skills selection, of course.
    But before arguing, it is *HR1* equipment AND defence, meaning you can do it
    with your actual rank being 1.
    *     *     *
    ~ Preparation ~
    They key of success of this quest is to overcome bow's weak attack...  You'll
    find the following strategy a little "cheap" because not everything is done
    with the bow...  But please forgive me given the situation, as I did it without
    power or mega juices.
    <Weapon of choice>  
    Dragon Bow Mountain!! (if anyone finds out another HR1 bow that can do this,
    please let me know)
    <Skills combinations>
    Although all the skill sets have many armor combinations, it is really
    important to use a Blademaster helm to prevent random one shots:
    1.  Scatter Up (a MUST for this bow, your first punch), Earplug, Bomber (It is
        a defensive set IMO.  I cleared the quest with this one.)
    2.  Scatter Up, Attack Up Medium, Bomber (the more offensive setup)
    ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
    < Potentally Possible Setups >
    Okay, okay...  I was a little ambitious when I attempted the quest...  I just 
    dig my head into the hell hole without thinking much...
    Now think about it, Tiger Whisker might work as well because of its higher raw 
    (however, after including its affinity and getting both bow's respective shot 
    up skills, Dragon Bow Mountain indeed does more damage, but with more difficult
    range management).  At least a rapid bow is much easier to manage.
    Bow of Choice:  Tigrex Whisker
    This is the strongest rapid bow for the time being...  just stick to it...
    Skills Combinations:
    Nothing impressive can be done here because the lack of skill points  
    1.  Focus + Rapid Up (not quite sure if it works, but if the archer can perfect
        range multiplier...)
    2.  Rapid UP + AUS + Bomber (essentially the same setup as the scatter 
    If I have time, I might test them out myself...
    ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
    -Powercharm + Poweralon 
         -These are the only things that are remotely from Gathering Hall, but you
          only buy them right there, and never need to touch any GH quests.  Forget
          about Armorcharms or Talons.  You will need all the attack boost you can
          get and defence's only purpose is to prevent one shot from full HP
          (between 140 to 150).
    -BOMBS (your second punch) and mixes 
         -Means 2 LBB+, 3 LBB, 10 barrels, 10 gunpowders, 10 scatterfishs
    -50 Power coatings, 20 sleep coatings, 20 poison coatings
    -30 Empty bottles, 20 nitroshrooms, 10 sleep herbs
    -Combo books 1-4
    -Power seeds
    -Fill the rest with potions 
         -or 2 max potions and a forecaster for the extra 20 power coatings from
          the item box)
         -or mixes for Ancient Potions (you won't get 100% mix rate, but what the
    < Felyne Kitchen Receipe >
    -Vegetable + meat (duh)
    <Ideal Felyne Whim Skills>
    -Felyne Temper (more shot damage is always good)
    -Felyne Gunpowder (so you can save even more spots and simplifies bomb mixing  
    process = safer)
    -Felyne Status Attack (you won't need this, but if you after you might miss, or
    can't get enough arrows just in time, you'll need this)
    < Strategy >
    1.  Overall
    Use your resources carefully.  Aim to sleep bomb each of them with 2 LBB+ once,
    and poison all monsters that come after Rathalos once (kind of pointless to  
    poison Rathalos as it takes decent dragon damage, therefore no poison coating
    mixing necessary and saves you a spot).
    In terms of the order of coating used...  Poison the monster first then put it
    to sleep later.  It's because the monsters are very likely to stand around  
    doing nothing for the first few shots, and you have very limited poison  
    coatings (20 coatings for 3 monsters) compared to sleep coatings (30+ coatings
    for 4 monsters).  After all, around 6 shots are needed to activate a status.
    2.  Rathalos
    This annoying guy flies all the time and is potentially your time killer (you
    might even need to abord the attempt if he's World Touring too much...).  
    Shoot all the way, sleep bomb him with LBB+ once and use ALL the bombs (other
    than any materials for the other 6 LBB+) when he lands.
    Another note for this monster is that he is the only monster that can land you
    a guaranteed one shot (rage > roar > charge).  Even a raged Tigrex charging at
    a hunter wearing an armor set with Rathalos Soul U pieces will NOT result in
    one shot if your HP is full at 140 or above.
    Try to kill him in less than 8 minutes.
    3.  Tigrex
    It might be Dead Train Express, but in fact it is a fair game.  Although it has
    higher HP than the other monsters, it can be done by being careful and 
    persistent.  Just move close enough for scatter to do maximum damage while not
    getting rolled over.  Use the first 50 power coatings on it.
    Try kill it with more than 25 minutes left.
    4.  Narga
    Another fair game if you can MOI the majority of its attacks.  Otherwise, 
    nothing special about it.
    Use the rest of the power coatings (after mixes) on it.  If you have
    Forecaster, grab the extra from the item box first then mix the rest. 
    Try killing it with more than 13-15 minutes left.
    5.  Rajang
    He might be the nightmare for melee hunters, but for archers, he's a joke 
    (yeah, he can one shot you with some attacks when enraged, but will you even
    get hit by him when it happens?).  You shoot him the very same way you'd do
    with a rapid bow, but stick a little closer, and aim at his torso instead of
    the head (so more hits get to him).  Once again, persistence and care are your
    It is possible to get more than 2 minutes left if you do not screw up much (my
    time was 1:57 left with 2 faints and less than satisfactory performance on 
    Narga because of my poor dodging skills...  so you can see, it's not always 
    about raw skills).
    And that's it!  You have done a "Mission Impossible"--Now bow has ensured its
    place in the world of Monster Hunter!
    PS:  This quest wasindeed a "Mission Impossible" to myself.  My very first
    Monster Hunter quest clear time had time left of 0:00.  Yes, ZERO SECOND LEFT!
    Now see how mcuh I can do now?  Practice indeed makes things improve 
    significantly, even if not reached to perfection!
                                       Section 7:
                                    ~Final Thoughts~
    "You've got the world within your sights with the Bow!  Now show the world what
    you've made of:  swift justice, straight and true.  Aim for the prize with your
    exquisite stance and let loose an arrow untethered.  This is the true path of a
    hunter, meow!"
    ~Felyne Comrade
    From a clueless archer who used pierce bow on a small Conga close up to writing
    this whole guide in just 3 years...  That's how much I have learned for bows...
    Now you have read the whole guide and should have learned more than just the
    basics to be successful with the bow.  Hope you enjoyed the reading.  Now shoot
    all the way!
                                       Section 8:
    MHP2G@Wiki (Japanese) for all of my general information
    Boldrin's Bow Damage Guide (so I won't need to explain how damage works)
    AthenaADP from Minegarde for developing the fine A.S.S.
    MHP2ndG Damage Calculator (Jp) lets me know how well weapons do just in seconds
    And thank you very much for all other archers I have met online and videos I
    have seen but forgotten the source!!
    Of course, last but not least, CAPCOM for creating this wonderful game!
    GameFaqs, for giving me the opportunity of posting this guide!!

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