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    FAQ/Strategy Guide by LCartwright

    Version: 1.0 | Updated: 08/17/01 | Search Guide | Bookmark Guide

    ||                                                    ||
    ||   F-Zero: Maximum Velocity for Game Boy Advance    ||
    ||   In depth FAQ/Walkthrough/Guide                   ||
    ||   Written by Leigh Cartwright                      ||
    ||   E-mail: wheels128@ignmail.com                    ||
    ||   Version 1.0 - 17th August 2001                   ||
    This guide’s content, including text, ASCII art and everything else
    is copyright Leigh Cartwright (wheels128) 2001 onwards-.
    The only official distribution points for this guide are:
    And at my website,
    You may not reproduce any part of this document without the prior
    written permission of myself. This document is for personal use
    only, and is not to be sold or used in a profit-making website,
    magazine etc.
    If you wish to use this guide, e-mail me and chances are I'll let you
    use it.
    Nintendo and F-Zero are registered trademarks of Nintendo Co. Ltd.
      1.1 Background Story
      1.2 Game Info
    2.0   OPTIONS
      2.1 Erasing game data
      2.2 Controls
    3.0   GAME MODES
      3.1 Grand Prix
      3.2 Training
      3.3 Multi-Pak Link
      3.4 Single-Pak Link
      3.5 Championship Mode
      3.6 Demo
      4.1 Basic Machine Overview
      4.2 Hot Violet
      4.3 Fireball
      4.4 J.B. Crystal
      4.5 Wind Walker
      4.6 Sly Joker
      4.7 The Stingray
      4.8 Silver Thunder
      4.9 Falcon Mk II
      4.10 Fighting Comet
      4.11 Jet Vermillion
      4.12 Which machine should you choose?
    5.0   THE COURSES
                Featuring course guides for all twenty courses
                plus the championship. More detail coming soon
      6.1 Pit Lanes
      6.2 Dash Plates
      6.3 Jump Plates
      6.4 Ice
      6.5 Dart Zones
      6.6 Land Mines
      6.7 Spin Markers
      6.8 Black Bombs
      6.9 Gravity Magnets
      6.10 Pull Magnets
      6.11 Damaged Track
    7.0   HINTS AND TIPS
      7.1 Unlocking machines and courses
      7.2 Expert Techniques
      7.3 General Tips, Cornering and Shortcuts
      7.4 Jet Vermillion code
    9.0   RANKINGS
    11.0  CREDITS
    F-Zero: Maximum Velocity was released in 2001 as the third major
    game in the F-Zero series. It is the first one available on a pocket
    or portable system, and is, in my opinion, the best of the Game Boy
    Advance’s launch titles. It contains 22 tracks, ten machines, high
    speed racing and violent machine ramming - essential aspects of the
    F-Zero series.
    1.1   Background Story
    The F-Zero Grand Prix's origins can be traced back to the 20th
    Century, where Formula 1 races began. The racing became faster and
    faster in Formula 1 through the 21st Century, and by the 24th
    Century, a spin-off from Formula 1 called the F-Max Grand Prix was
    developed. As area for courses on planets ran out, courses began to
    be placed high above cities. These Grand Prix’s didn’t cared about
    life or citizens - it was a timeless quest for power, fame and
    However the F-Max Grand Prix was an overly violent race, and
    casualty free races were an absolute rarity, and basically an
    impossibility. In fact, the reports of 7481 deaths are now generally
    accepted as fact, while the number of injuries was possibly greater.
    This violence led to the F-Max Grand Prix being known as the "Race
    of Gore". The F-Max Grand Prix was eventually wound up, when 34
    racers, including the Grand Emperor's son and The Skull, were
    The F-Zero Grand Prix started in the 26th Century, when the highly
    compact plasma machines that were used in F-Max racing were made
    safer. Capable of track speeds in excess of 800 km/h (500 mph),
    these machines floated approximately 6 inches (15 centimetres) above
    the track using the "G-Diffuser System" ,a gravity opposing
    creation. The Grand Prix has been influenced over many years by
    wealthy ex-space merchants, who saw great revenue through gambling
    in F-Zero Racing. So the F-Zero Execution Project was set up.
    Drivers were brought through years of laborious and rigourous
    training to prepare for the high speeds and violence of the F-Zero
    Grand Prix. This was carried out at the F-Zero Academy, where the
    experienced campaigners of F-Zero Racing would nurture and look
    after and nurture the youngsters, and teach them safe and careful
    driving. The F-Zero Academy was one of the requirements of the
    reintroduction of F-Zero racing.
    However the recklessness of certain drivers led to many casualties -
    including the deaths of The Skull and Dr. Stewart's father and the
    near death of the Mighty Gazelle, who became a cyborg and has a
    permanent metal cast to cover his wounds. As a result, the F-Zero
    Grand Prix was discontinued for many years, although practice on the
    now unused tracks continued, as did the F-Zero Academy.
    Due to the support of many fans and wealthy sponsors, the F-Zero
    Grand Prix returned under the new name of F-Zero X. Rules were
    changed, the machines made larger as to fit in more safety equipment
    and the tracks were, as a general rule, safer. The F-Zero Execution
    project changed their name to the F-Zero X Execution project, and
    the racing continued. The Skull even returned to race on, thanks to
    the use of black magic.
    Now, there is a new generation of riders - nurtured by the greats of
    F-Zero X's days, like Captain Falcon, Silver Neelsen and Super
    Arrow. It's been 25 years since these greats piloted their way to
    interstellar fame as F-Zero racers. And F-Zero has began to fade
    away into a small sense of obscurity now that their days of fame
    have withered into a legend. But as the space merchants began to run
    out of money, there became more daring brave souls willing to give
    the hardest races of them all another go.
    This is F-Zero: Maximum Velocity.
    1.2   Game Info
    Full Name       F-Zero: Maximum Velocity
    Also called     F-Zero for Game Boy Advance, F-Zero Advance
    System          Game Boy Advance
    Players         1-4
    Genre           Racing
    Developer       ND Cube
    Publisher       Nintendo
    Release Dates   Jap: Mar 2001, US: Jun 11, Aus/Eur: Jun 22.
    ESRB Rating     E - Everyone
    Accessories     Multiplayer Link Cable, PowerPak EX, GlowGuard
    Lead Programmer Tomohito Ito
    Lead Artist     Takashi Kouyama
    Lead Designer   Isshin Shimizu
    2.0   OPTIONS
    The Options Menu is reached by selecting it from the Menu Select
    Screen. Note that there are no other options for you to edit outside
    of the Options screen. Here you can edit the amount of continues you
    get in a Grand Prix, your controller setup and whether or not you
    want the music on.
    2.1   Erasing game data
    If you wish to erase ALL game data, then hold both the L and R
    shoulder buttons immediately after switching your Game Boy Advance
    on. You will then be shown a screen which asks “Erase all saved game
    data?” Obviously, select ‘yes’ to erase and ‘no’ to cancel.
    If you wish to erase individual saved game files, then select
    'CLEAR' at the bottom right hand corner on the File Select Screen.
    The simply select the saved game file you wish to erase and press A
    to start deleting the file, then 'OK' to confirm that you wish to
    completely erase the given file.
    Note: However, I have found that after a friend of mine sold his
    copy of F-Zero: Maximum Velocity to someone, the original game
    owner’s fast times were still stored in the mixed rankings section.
    If you wish to delete these times, you must delete ALL game data.
    2.2   Game Controls
    This section outlines everything you can possibly do in F-Zero by
    pressing any of Game Boy Advance’s ten buttons
    /   L                         R   \
    |         _______________         |         A:           Accelerate
    |   |    |               |        |         B:           Brake
    | -- --  |   GAME  BOY   |     A  |         Control Pad: Steer
    |   |    |    ADVANCE    |  B     |         L:           Drift Left
    |        |               |        |         R:           Drift Right
    |        |    Maximum    |        |         Start:       Pause
    |  start |   Velocity.   |        |         Select:      Watch Demo
    | select  ---------------         |         L + R:       Boost
    While Jumping: Press down on the control pad to gain extra air (The
    Long Jump Technique) - this is vitally essential as you will need it
    to pull off the shortcuts and sometimes, depending on your choice of
    machine, you may need it just to make some of the long jumps on
    courses. Also press down when landing so your machine maintains
    speed and doesn’t lose any energy. Using and MASTERING both
    techniques is an absolute must - if you can’t, then you can forget
    about master mode. Both techniques will be dealt with in much more
    detail in the Expert Techniques section [7.2] of this FAQ.
    While Steering: In addition to Normal steering, you can also use L
    and R to execute drift turns and strafe running. I will, like with
    the jumping techniques, deal with the cornering techniques in
    section 7.3.
    If you wish to use other controller set-ups for the on track racing,
    you can. F-Zero gives you a choice of six different controller
    types. They are as follows:
                          CONTROLLER SET-UPS
         |               |   1      2      3      4      5      6   |
         | ACCELERATOR:  |   A      B      A      B      A      B   |
         | BRAKE:        |   B      A     L+R    L+R     B      A   |
         | BOOST METHOD: |  L+R    L+R     B      A      U      U   |
              A - A Button         L+R - L and R shoulder buttons
              B - B Button           U - Up on the Control Pad
    Controller One is the default setting, and the one most people will
    use. I don’t recommend numbers 5 and 6, as I have on a few occasions
    accidentally boosted when using these settings. The choice is
    entirely up to you. Personally, I use setting 1, because it makes it
    much easier to boost without taking your finger/thumb off the
    accelerator. But as I said, choose whatever you're most comfortably
    3.0   GAME MODES
    F-Zero: Maximum Velocity contains 5 playable game modes (Grand Prix,
    Training, Single-Pak Link, Multi-Pak Link and Championship) and a
    3.1   Grand Prix
    The feature of F-Zero: Maximum Velocity. There are four cups with
    five tracks each and you race against other high-tech plasma
    machines at high speeds over five laps with the sole aim of
    finishing in the top three so you can continue on to the next race
    in the Grand Prix.
    The Cups are:
      >> Pawn -   an easy introduction to F-Zero. Contains only a slight
                  guide to what lies ahead in the game.
      >> Bishop - A little bit harder, but still doesn’t present major
                  challenges to most gamers. An introduction to some of
                  the more annoying obstacles arrives here.
      >> Knight - Much harder than Bishop and probably impossible to the
                  average gamer on master difficulty. The computer seems
                  to cheat twice as much here as on the other cups...
      >> Queen -  Not as hard as you would expect it to be. It’s easier
                  than the Knight course for me. Contains the Plummet
                  Circuit (read more in Section 5.17 later).
    The Queen cup is unavailable at the beginning, but most gamers
    should be able to unlock it without too much trouble. All you have
    to do is beat the other three Grand Prix races on the first three
    difficulty levels. Speaking of difficulty levels, there are four of
    these as well:
          >> Beginner - Very simple. With no disrespect intended, but
        no-one should ever fail to complete all courses on this level
        within three hours of game play. The CPU machines make no effort
        to overtake you unless you let them, they slow down on every
        corner and never boost.
          >> Standard - Still easy. The CPU machines begin to make an
        effort to overtake you, but even still it’s only a few that do.
        But wait for the big jump to Expert.
          >> Expert - And you though F-Zero was easy? The CPU machines
        will bump you drive faster than you and always keep on your tail
        no matter how fast you drive, so there’s almost no point
        speeding ahead to build an unbeatable lead.
          >> Master - Average gamers can forget about this. This level
        may cause you to throw objects such as your Game Boy Advance
        and your F-Zero cartridge into the wall. The CPU will drive
        around 2% faster than you, and will stick on your tail while you
        boost. If you take a shortcut, they will catch you in milli-
        seconds, but not pass you for about 3 seconds. The slower
        machines will get in your way, the faster ones will ram you into
        walls, mines, bombs and other machines. All other machines have
        unlimited energy. Seem unfair... ?
    Once you complete a series in all four difficulty levels, you
    receive a chess piece corresponding to the cup that you beat. It can
    be found with the driver with whom you won the cup on master mode.
    You can be disqualified from the race if you do not reach the goals
    set each lap. You must finish in at least:
           |                            |
           |  15th    after   1   lap   |
           |  10th    after   2   laps  |
           |  7th     after   3   laps  |
           |  5th     after   4   laps  |
           |  3rd     after   5   laps  |
    ...and never drop to 20th [last] place if you wish to keep racing.
    This means that you must be consistently up the top of the field (or
    improving so that you will get there) if you want to complete a
    course. The trick is to never slip out of the top three, but that’s
    a lot easier to say than to do.
    Your machine will blow up if you run out of energy, and if you have
    no more continues/spare machines remaining, your Grand Prix will be
    You will note after playing a short while that there are a lot of
    really slow cars that shouldn’t be in the game. Most of them are
    crumpled up yellow ‘things’ [they don’t deserve to be called F-Zero
    machines] and they will get in your way. On the easier difficulty
    levels, they aren’t such a worry, but by the time you get up to the
    harder levels - especially master - they will block you and clip you
    so that you lose 1/10 or 2/10 of a second. Now this doesn’t seem
    like much, but it all builds up. It is absolutely essential, and I
    can not stress this enough, that you DO NOT HIT THESE SLOW MACHINES!
    Contrary to the belief of some, your times in the Grand Prix are
    recorded and can become your fastest (if you don’t try training mode
    that is...).
    3.2   Training
    This would have been much more aptly named Time Attack, as it was in
    the Nintendo 64 version F-Zero X. Basically, all training is to the
    average gamer is a place to practise for the Grand Prix. But to
    those who are serious about their F-Zero, the training mode is for
    setting fast times to challenge friends or post on websites (I’ll
    deal with the website bit in more detail in Section 10: Internet
    In training mode, you complete your five laps with or without
    competition. You firstly choose your machine, then whether you want
    to race an opponent. If not, select “No Entry”, but if you do pick
    an opponent, you can pick any other machine you have unlocked and
    the difficulty level (Beginner - Master) they will race at. If you
    choose Beginner, it should be a stroll in the park, but on the other
    hand, Master is not so easy.
    Anyway, after you select machines, you then choose a course. Once
    this is done, you’re racing/practicing. Your times are recorded as
    they are in the Grand Prix.
    3.3   Multi-Pak Link
    The only real way to play F-Zero multiplayer. Connect all Game Boy
    Advance’s using the Multi Link cables that will be involved in the
    fun before starting up the systems, and it’s pretty self explanatory
    from that point onwards. Playing this form of multiplayer, enables a
    faster transfer of information, and therefore it is quicker. But the
    real advantage is that you get to choose the machine and course. The
    fun doesn’t end if you have friends who own F-Zero. You can also
    choose whether the CPU controls the remaining machines if you have 2
    or 3 people playing.
    Via this, you can also exchange rankings - see section 9 for more
    3.4   Single-Pak Link
    A real letdown here. If you wish to play multiplayer, you need
    multiple F-Zero carts to get the most out of it. Using 1 game pak,
    you are given a course called Silence Open C, and each player is
    assigned a machine of a different colour, but equal attributes and
    ratings. There is no music or sound effects available either. The
    machines, quite uninventively, are called Green Kim, Yellow Kim, Red
    Kim and Blue Kim. The machines are similar to the Hot Violet in their
    behaviour as far as steering goes.
    3.5   Championship Mode
    This is how you separate the sheep from the goats and the boys from
    the men, or whatever they say. The Championship course is impossible
    for beginners, annoying for those with a small level of experience,
    easy for most and a walkover for some. The aim is to beat the Ghost
    time of 1’57”65 set by Megan in the Hot Violet on this specially
    designed course. You can use any machine that is normally available
    to you in your attempt to beat the ghost, which isn’t that hard -
    I almost won with my first attempt at it, and the top time as
    recorded at the Official Nintendo of Japan F-Zero page (see the
    Ranking section - 9.0) is almost lapping the ghost TWICE.
    You can choose whether to have the ghost showing as you attempt your
    record. If you do, then it may be a distraction, but at least you
    know whether you need to go faster or not. But after a little
    practise, you should lose ghost on the first lap, so that idea is
    almost redundant.
    You can view a replay of the Hot Violet’s run and pick up the
    mistakes it makes - these are the places you can improve on the
    ghost time. I have made a short list of them here:
        1. They use the Hot Violet - the best machine is the Jet
           Vermillion, followed by the Fighting Comet.
        2. Doesn’t take a sharp enough line on the early corners and
           loses valuable time
        3. Leaves the mines - you can bounce off these at high speeds.
           This is an essential tactic with the Jet Vermillion so you can
           build up early speed.
        4. Doesn’t cut the corners when jumping, and therefore fails to
           shave half/quarter-seconds off the time.
        5. Misses boosts on laps 4 and 5. Costs her seconds here.
    So as you can see, there are many places that you can improve on
    the time of the Hot Violet. A good pilot can clock sub 1:35, only
    the best of the best can get sub 1:25. I now feel 1:20 is impossible
    for anyone to achieve having watched how fast people go in order to
    clock 1:26 or 1:27. The best time I have seen so far is 1'23"14 - and
    it probably doesn't get too much quicker than that.
    Please note that lapping the Ghost is expected, not an achievement.
    And if you are having trouble beating the ghost, start practising
    with either the Fighting Comet or the Jet Vermillion, and use drift
    turns, or strafe-running - see the section 7.3: Cornering Techniques)
    3.6   Demo
    Press “select” at the Title Screen to view a demo. The demo will
    choose a course from this list:
        1. Pawn Final: Cloud Carpet - Long Jump Circuit  [Fireball]
        2. Knight 4:   Ancient Mesa - Skating Circuit  [J.B. Crystal]
        3. Queen 2:    Tenth Zone East - Plummet Circuit  [Wind Walker]
        4. Pawn 1:     Bianca City - Stretch Circuit  [Hot Violet]
    But the problem is that these demonstrations are appalling. They
    really should be like a challenge, or a time to beat. But without
    trying you can hammer them. They make so many stupid mistakes that
    it is almost funny. Watch one demo, and that will be all you need.
    There are ten playable machines in F-Zero, of which six have to be
    unlocked in order to be used. The first four machines are available
    for use from the very start of the game. The machines vary not only
    in appearance, but also in nine categories:
    1. Top Speed
        The speed in km/h that the machine reaches normally. 
    2. Max Boost Speed
        The speed in km/h that the machine reaches while boosting.
    3. Boost Time
        The amount of time a boost lasts for. The longer, the better.
    4. Body Strength
        How strong the machine is when colliding with other machines,
        obstacles and walls.
    5. Turn Balance
        This determines the level of skidding and sliding a machine will
        have when it turns sharp corners.
    6. Turn Performance
        How sharply the machine can turn, as an average of its abilities
        under all conditions and surfaces. Different machines corner
        vastly differently on ice, dirt normal track etc.
    7. Jump
        How far the machine can jump upon hitting jump plates. This
        affects the machines ability to take shortcuts that require long
    8. Boost Maintenance
        How long it takes for the machine to lose all extra speed gained
        by boosting, with the higher score meaning longer (and better)
        retaining of the high speeds attained while boosting.
    9. Acceleration
        How long it takes for the machine to reach top speed. Keep in
        mind that you do not get straight to top speed when using a
        Rocket Start, and therefore this technique does not negate a
        slow acceleration.
    4.1   Basic Machine Overview
    Some important things you should know before picking your machine:
       > Trial them all, and pick one that you can control and steer.
       > Remember that practise makes perfect, and you might not be able
         to do something the first time. Just give it another go.
       > Some machine ratings are deceptive. Try using different
         cornering techniques or turning the corner early.
       > The Jet Vermillion is a training-mode only machine
       > You will not unlock the Fighting Comet with the J.B. Crystal
         (unless you are a freak), but it is the best vehicle for
         beginners and those who have trouble steering.
    4.2   Hot Violet
    MAX SPEED:        422km
    MAX BOOST SPEED:  579km
    BOOST TIME:       6 seconds
    BODY STRENGTH:    69
    JUMP:             C
    A well-balanced machine that is strongly recommended for beginners.
    The turning and cornering ratings leave a bit to be desired, but if
    a beginner can handle this, they can handle almost anything. Lack of
    any major machine "brilliances" means that the Hot Violet is not the
    best machine for the harder difficulty levels.
    4.3   Fire Ball
    MAX SPEED:        440km
    MAX BOOST SPEED:  565km
    BOOST TIME:       6.5 seconds
    BODY STRENGTH:    82
    JUMP:             B
    Fast and strong, the Fireball leads the Hot Violet as an overall
    machine, but it's acceleration isn't as good as it could be. If
    you can stay of the walls, this is a beast of a machine that isn’t
    easy to catch. Any pilot with a few hours of practice should be
    able to use this machine to their advantage, even though it could be
    much better.
    4.4   J.B. Crystal
    MAX SPEED:        418km
    MAX BOOST SPEED:  560km
    BOOST TIME:       9.5 seconds
    BODY STRENGTH:    63
    JUMP:             B
    With its long boost time and great jumping and cornering, the JB
    Crystal is the best machine for a beginner. When you get the hang
    of this machine, you might want to go onto the faster machines,
    for the simple reason that this light blue machine just doesn't
    match it with the big boys on master difficulty.
    4.5   Crazy Horse/Wind Walker
    MAX SPEED:        428km
    MAX BOOST SPEED:  585km
    BOOST TIME:       5.3 seconds
    BODY STRENGTH:    50
    JUMP:             A
    Weak - very weak - the Crazy Horse or Wind Walker has the lowest
    body and average grip, but it is very fast. The best machine for
    making shortcuts with, this machine is too difficult for a beginner,
    and is easily nudged off course on master difficulty mode. However,
    it is useful in setting fast times.
    4.6   Dirty Joker/Sly Joker
    MAX SPEED:        436km
    MAX BOOST SPEED:  591km
    BOOST TIME:       3 seconds
    BODY STRENGTH:    75
    JUMP:             C
    A great choice - this well-rounded machine is similar to the JB
    Crystal, only improved. When you unlock this, it should be your
    first choice machine until you can get at the Falcon MkII. The
    downside to this is its jumping - sometimes you will struggle to
    pull off the all important shortcut on Pawn 5.
    4.7   The Stingray
    MAX SPEED:        460km
    MAX BOOST SPEED:  525km
    BOOST TIME:       12 seconds
    BODY STRENGTH:    85
    JUMP:             A
    ACCELERATION:     D/C (it’s between D and C)
    A basic machine (or no-frills machine) that you can use, just not
    very well. It is great for shortcuts, and in my opinion has the
    longest jump in the game. but it doesn't go fast enough when
    boosting, even if its boost time is four times the length of the
    Dirty Joker's. It also doesn't corner well or accelerate as good as
    the others.
    4.8   Silver Thunder
    MAX SPEED:        464km
    MAX BOOST SPEED:  589km
    BOOST TIME:       3.7 seconds
    BODY STRENGTH:    90
    JUMP:             D
    Fast. Strong. Can't Jump, accelerate or steer. Short boost time.
    That basically sums up the Silver Thunder. It's inability to win on
    high difficulty levels is a problem, as is the problem you'll face
    if you can't get the rocket start. It skids out of control so badly,
    that I believe it to be the worst machine in the game. Many gamers
    will struggle to gain fast times with this. A downsized Jet
    4.9   Falcon Mk-II
    MAX SPEED:        448km
    MAX BOOST SPEED:  573km
    BOOST TIME:       7.2 seconds
    BODY STRENGTH:    66
    JUMP:             B
    The well-rounded machine that has no weaknesses is in a very close
    race with the Fighting Comet and Jet Vermillion for best machine in
    the game. But where not just anyone can use the Comet and
    Vermillion, a beginner will appreciate the fine jumping, speed and
    acceleration of the Falcon MkII. A smooth machine that is an almost
    perfect Grand Prix choice. Master mode will not seems as difficult
    4.10   Fighting Comet
    MAX SPEED:        412km
    MAX BOOST SPEED:  593km
    BOOST TIME:       9 seconds
    BODY STRENGTH:    56
    JUMP:             A
    Lightning fast. The Comet leaves all in its wake when it boosts,
    but when it doesn't, it is left in the wake of it's rivals. All the
    same, a smart pilot will be able to defeat anyone with this in a
    one-on-one race, but in the rigours of a GP, it's average cornering
    and weak body might be found out. Use the Fighting Comet to set fast
    times in the Time Trial/Practise mode.
    4.11   Jet Vermilion
    MAX SPEED:        456km
    MAX BOOST SPEED:  602km
    BOOST TIME:       4.2 seconds
    BODY STRENGTH:    100
    JUMP:             D
    The Jet Vermillion is insanely fast, but it has the worst
    acceleration in the game, the worst jump in the game, and the worst
    steering in the game. For any beginner, forget this machine ever
    existed. In the domain of professionals, master this machine to
    lap the ghost in the Championship course. It steers surprisingly well
    on ice considering it's ratings. If you can keep the Jet of the
    walls, it sets damn good times.
    4.12   Which machine should you choose?
    This comes down to game mode, availability and a little bit of
    personal preference.
    If you are attempting a Grand Prix:
    Immediately discard the Jet Vermillion and Silver Thunder. You don’t
    want these in this event. The Fighting Comet should also go, as it’s
    not strong enough to cope with being bashed around. These reason
    also goes for the Wind Walker, which has a body strength rating of
    just 50. The Fireball is next to be cut, as it is just not good
    enough. It’s not fast, its cornering is average - nothing makes it
    stand out from the pack. The same goes for the Hot Violet. The J.B.
    Crystal is too slow and so it is also cut.
    So we are left with the Sly Joker, the Falcon MkII and the Stingray.
    If you are setting fast times in the Training mode:
    Two choices here. When speed is all that matters, you don’t pussy-
    foot around with the J.B. Crystal. Of course you go for the big
    guns, namely the Jet Vermillion and the Fighting Comet. While the
    Comet is weak, the Vermillion won’t accelerate and neither can turn
    brilliantly, a little practise (and some skill) is all that’s
    required to shave half seconds of lap times everywhere.
    5.0   THE COURSES
    F-Zero: Maximum Velocity contains 22 all new tracks. A brief
    description and guide to beating them is listed below. More track
    info coming in a later version of this FAQ.
    Pawn 1 - Bianca City
    This track is an excellent introduction to the game, striking a
    balance between excitement and ease of use. Nice wide lanes with
    plenty of overtaking opportunities, none of the bends are too sharp.
    Take the first jump to cut the corner and boost over the slow down
    area to cut some serious seconds of your time. The most challenging
    corner is the gentle 180 degree bend before the start-finish
    straight. This is the second easiest course in the game.
    Pawn 2 - Stark Farm
    This track is quite difficult for beginners. Narrow with lots of
    corners, the course has numerous areas where the surface has broken
    up, causing your craft to slow down if hit. Several 90 degree bends
    and one very narrow 180 degree turn make this track a difficult nut
    to crack. Use your boost at the start of the long straight -
    straights are a rarity on this course. At a lot of places on this
    course, moving room is minimal, so if you get a half chance to
    overtake, do so. Stick to the inside running on all corners and
    don’t hit the wall.
    Pawn 3 - Empyrean Colony
    A wider track, not too dissimilar from Bianca City, this course
    poses no real problems. One very wide 180 degree bend is easy for
    anyone with a little cornering practise to negotiate. The only
    tricky part comes in split road section, giving you the choice of
    going left or right. Speed up markers appear on both sides, and
    hitting them all without slamming into the side of the track may be
    difficult for some, but is essential for a fast time. My preferred
    option is to go to the left hand side, but neither of the sides are
    noticeably quicker. Some people say that going to the right makes
    it easier to take the following sharp left corner, but I have no
    problems going either side.
    Pawn 4 - Stark Farm
    Another wide track, however this one narrows in places due to dirt
    stuff. This dirt should be avoided as it works like the dart zones
    in F-Zero X ie. it slows you down. With one easy 180 degree turn,
    this track should present you with no real problems. The turn at
    point B should be mastered - turns like this cannot be stuffed up
    if you want to do well at F-Zero. Just before the straight is where
    you should use up your remaining boosts - there is a section where
    the track winds through the slow-down zone, but if you boost, you
    can rocket your way past opponents with ease along the black stuff.
    Pawn 5 - Clouds Carpet
    A challenging track, Clouds Carpet is drastically varies in width.
    Some sections of the track are slim-line racing, while others are
    nice and wide. Three 180 degree turns mean positioning your craft
    to take the correct line through the corners is essential. A large
    section of track is missing towards the end of the lap, requiring
    you to jump across the chasm. This is where the greatest of
    shortcuts comes in: Instead of jumping across in a straight line,
    you pick up the boost on the left. Just before you hit the boost
    plate, you veer left - still hitting it, but so you are going on a
    sharp angle. Just collect the jump, and steer left in the air.
    Hopefully you will be able to land just on the track. This may
    require some practise, but it is the best shortcut in the game.
    Knight 1 - Tenth Zone East
    A wide track with one 180 degree turn, several 90 degree turns and
    a challenging chicane (left then right 90 degree turns). Nothing
    too difficult here with lots of overtaking opportunities -
    especially on the straights, but also by taking the inside line on
    some of the more gentle corners. East Ten Side is a basic
    introduction to the Knight class, but not necessarily a warning for
    what lies ahead.
    Knight 2 - Beacon Port
    A very twisty track, distinctive by the way the track splits in two
    and forms a large figure of eight. There are many sharp 90 degree
    corners and a couple of almost 180 degree bends. At point A, a hard
    left is required. This cup seems to me to be the one for cornering.
    Deciding on which way to go at the figure 8 is again your choice -
    but my opinion is you turn right and always stay right (experienced
    cornerers only). This section looks a lot harder than it actually
    is, but you should be warned. Avoiding colliding with other vehicle
    at the crossing is purely down to luck. Hitting the speed up
    markers on this track requires good anticipation of the following
    corners, otherwise you will be slamming the course's side walls in
    no time.
    Knight 3 - Synobazz
    This track contains some devious mines which deplete power from
    your vehicle if hit. Fortunately the mines can only be hit once,
    but the craters they leave will slow down your craft if run over.
    The actual track consists of one tight 180 degree corner, a twisty
    S bend, and a 270 degree turn containing the mines. A jump ramp is
    also present, which must be hit to avoid some damaged track. Some
    of the damaged track appears to be on fire, and will drain power
    from your vehicle if hit.
    Knight 4 - Ancient Mare
    A very difficult track, the Ancient Mare track is distinctive by
    it's "upside down triangular" split in the road. The problem in
    this area is magnified because the back end of the triangle is
    virtually impossible to turn on due to the icy road (this is
    identified by the track turning white and your vehicle skidding out
    of control if attempting to steer). The best way of heading back in
    the correct direction is to hit the speed up ramp at the base of
    the triangle. This will ricochet your craft along the right
    heading, requiring only corrective steering on your part to avoid
    slamming into the side of the track where the road narrows. At the
    end of this massive section of ice is a very tight fit. Barge your
    way through, unless you chose a weak, stupid, little machine like
    the Crazy Horse or Fighting Comet. A section of track is also
    missing towards the end of the lap, but fortunately a jump ramp is
    present to help you across.
    Knight 5 - Stark Farm
    A very easy track with a split in the road that has two very
    different sections depending upon the choice you make. Going left
    results in a longer stretch of road and some narrow sections of
    track, but overall your speed will be maintained. Going right
    results in a shorter trip and a jump over a missing section of
    track (a jump ramp is provided and you actually leap over part of
    the road from the left fork). However, after the jump an un-
    avoidable section of damaged track appears which severely slows
    down your vehicle. I would therefore suggest you always turn left,
    but if you go right mistake it is possible to drop down onto the
    crossing track at the jump by angling your craft to the right at
    the jump ramp.
    Bishop 1 - Bianca City
    Bianca City is a very straightforward track with no real
    challenges, just a few 90 degree bends and the 135 degree turn that
    should present no problems. Boost directly after the 135 degree
    right turn and into the straight.
    Bishop 2 - Ancient Mare
    The major troubles here are the ice and the split road. With the
    split road, all you need to do is remember which side you entered,
    because if you branched off left you must exit left and vice versa.
    The road surface here is icy and is therefore very slippery.
    Further on two 180 degree turns loom and both of these are icy too,
    which make for a large challenge. Boost are best used on the large
    Bishop 3 - Crater Land 
    Crater land is a very unique track. There are three splits in the
    road, the first of which gives you the choice of speed up markers
    (left) or power recharge (right), the second gives you speed up
    markers each side, and the third gives you the choice of power
    recharge (left) or speed up markers (right). In between the second
    and third splits are energy fields, or as they are more commonly
    referred to as, elevators. These obstacles pull your craft to the
    left and right. This is not a problem on the wider stretches of
    road, but requires precise counter-steering where the track narrows
    and the elevators remain.
    Bishop 4 - Clouds Carpet
    A very twisty narrow track makes this course very tricky, however
    this can be counteracted by the use of one good move, and one
    sensational move. We'll get to those later. Leading up to point A
    is a few basic turns, and at the aforementioned point, take the
    left boost if possible, and propel your machine across in front of
    the pack (if possible). Here is a good time to be in first, as the
    slimline areas can be clogged up. Now to those shortcuts. Leading
    into to the first one, you must take a very sharp left so you can
    pick up the jump. Then fly over the edge of the track and you can
    pick up some valuable places. And for the excellent move, you use
    the next jump, in conjunction with the Long Jump Technique to fly
    over. The next turn may become a little difficult for novices, but
    by the time you attempt this cup, you should be decently trained in
    piloting an F-Zero Machine. Using this, you can cut some serious
    seconds of your lap times, while everyone else is navigating a 180
    degree turn.
    Bishop 5 - Bianca City
    Bianca City is twisty and narrow in places, with three wide 180
    degree turns and a couple of chicanes (one with sections of damaged
    track). Overall this is a fairly straight- forward track, that
    shouldn't be of any trouble to anyone. With a rocket start, no-one
    will easily catch you - if you drive well and take a look at your
    "mark" thingy - this tells you where your opponent is. And if
    you're not driving on master difficulty.
    Queen 1 - Crater Land
    A course with no left turns. The first experience of Queen class is
    very gentle, this course is almost an oval with no tricky corners.
    Just round and round for a very easy ride. Get the boost and cut
    the corner at the first jump - very professional pilots will land
    on the next jump plate. First-timers need to watch out for damaged
    areas of track, but jump ramps are available to help you over -
    never skip one. Remember to press down on the D-Pad (ie. long jump
    technique) while jumping to get some more air.
    Queen 2 - Tenth Zone East
    The second course of the Queen Cup has 5 breaks in the track, each
    of which does not quite line up straight. Jump ramps help you
    across, but you must correct direction while in the air, and
    remember to press down on the D-Pad to add a few extra inches to
    your jump - you'll need them! Or, you can use the shortcuts. For
    the first one - at the you need a severe left to even consider it -
    this is for machines with high grip that don't spin out of control
    on sharp turns such as this one. The second one is easier to pull
    off, but upon landing, make sure you don’t end up going the wrong
    way because you couldn't get enough right-hand turning ability.
    However, if you do pull off the two shortcuts on each lap, and you
    lose, you should be dragged into the street and shot.
    Queen 3 - Laputan Colony
    This course would be pretty straight forward were it not for the
    spin markers. Hit these little puppies and your craft will spin 180
    degrees on the spot, leaving you facing the wrong direction. Things
    are not made any easier by these appearing immediately after speed
    up markers, so be careful when hitting them. The hardest ones to
    avoid are around part B - but hit any of them and your race is
    almost over.
    Queen 4 - Fire Field
    This track is peppered with mines that blow up and damage your
    craft if hit. The flaming craters they leave behind also damage
    your vehicle if run over, so avoid if possible. A tricky double
    hair pin turn needs particular care to avoid mine damage.
    Queen 5 - Fire Field
    The mines on this track are positioned in rows making them easier
    to avoid. Jump ramps appear before each row of mines, so position
    the vehicle right and you will sail over most of them, hopefully not
    landing on one! At the split road, I recommend going left -
    but only if your machine is low on energy. Also, there is a very
    difficult shortcut - try it in practise heaps before you
    attempt it in a GP.
    The course begins with a straight, with the pit lane is on the
    left. As you end the straight there are some quick turns - right,
    left, then a wide 180 degree turn. The only difficulty is that
    there are four mines to avoid here. Then after the 180, there are
    three dart zones. The first one is on the left, the second on the
    right and the third is back on the left. As you pass the third dart
    zone there is a 90 degree left turn. Stay left after this turn to
    avoid the damaged track and mines on the right. After the mines
    there is a an easy right turn and then two jumps - left first, then
    right. You can't get both, but take the one on the right. Press
    down upon landing as not to take any power losses. After the jumps
    are two more easy turns, right then left. Following this there are
    two side-by-side boost plates - you must get one of them. This is
    followed by a weird shaped chicane, consisting of what would
    usually be an easy left and an easy right, except for the tracks
    condition. Some sand-coloured stuff litters the track and therefore
    steering is twice as hard as steering with ice. But don't give up
    yet. There is then a skinny section of the course on a right turn,
    and following that there is a boost in the center. Immediately
    after hitting that, steer right (or drift - but drifting is harder
    in this situation) to pick up another boost on your right. On laps
    2-5, boost as soon as you get half-way through the aforementioned
    skinny section. It's the bottom most section of the track.
    Beginners - have fun...
    There are many objects that can be found on the course in F-Zero.
    While some can help you, others are hindrances and should be avoided
    at all costs. Here is an outline of the objects:
    6.1   Pit Lanes
    Recover your energy by going through the unmistakeably green pit
    lanes. After your machine has taken a battering at the hands of your
    mean rivals and the track, you need to avoid suffering low power.
    That’s why you use the pit lanes. Generally they are located to the
    side of the course just after the finish line, but this is not
    always the case - Queen 3 has two pit lanes - both found on split
    road situations. On courses like Fire Field (Queen 4’s Landmine
    Circuit), a weak machine can be pummelled, and you may need to brake
    in order to pick up the required high levels of energy you need. In
    Training, the pit lane doesn’t mean much, as you shouldn’t need it
    that much.
    6.2   Dash Plates
    Instantly increase your speed to 639 km/h by going over a dash
    plate. The are pink, arrow shaped and prolific in courses like Queen
    3 and Pawn 3. These are to be hit whenever possible as they are
    required to set mad times. Depending on the Boost maintenance rating
    of your machine, these boosts may last a very short or very long
    6.3   Jump Plates
    Jump (duh) long distances with these beauties. Useful for taking
    the shortcuts in Pawn 1, Pawn 5, Knight 4, Bishop 4, Queen 2, Queen
    1 - you get the picture. You can also fly over the slow machines
    that annoyingly get in your way. Jump plates are light blue and they
    appear to be a straight, horizontal line. Just remember to hold down
    to increase jumping distance and as not to lose energy and speed
    when you land. Just remember that almost every jump is a shortcut,
    but not every machine can make it - the Jet Vermillion is an
    appalling jumper of long distances. When in the air, you can turn by
    using blast turns. This is a good tactic if you are offline or get
    bumped in the air, but hopefully you’ll never need to use it.
    6.4   Ice
    Appears a hell of a lot in the Ancient Mesa course. Your craft can
    turn sharper corners on ice, but will spin out unless you can master
    cornering on this surface. While speed is not decreased, your craft
    will have noticeably lower acceleration, so it is very essential
    that you don’t ram into the back of anyone - and stay off the walls.
    It looks sort of like ice - bluish-white and shiny, but once you get
    driving on it, it’s unmistakeably ice.
    If you hit the wall and start sliding backwards on ice, rapidly tap
    the accelerator to stop and get back to normal.
    6.5   Dart Zones
    The slow down area. To be avoided at all costs unless boosting, in
    which case it’s really not that bad at all. There are two types of
    dart zones; the first looks like dirt - a solid black covering of
    the course; and the second, which appears a lot in the Pawn 1 course
    is more patchy. The difference is quite minimal - both slow you down
    heaps but your turning is slightly more wayward on the dirt-like
    substance. But all problems can be avoided by good cornering or by
    boosting over the troublesome patches.
    6.6   Land Mines
    The two Fire Field courses at the end of the Queen cup are littered
    with land mines. I can’t really be bothered counting them. But you
    really should be bothered avoiding them if your machine has a low
    body strength rating. Because often, one mine leads to another which
    leads to the wall and before you know it, you’ve got low power. So
    for all of you who use the Fighting Comet, Wind Walker (Crazy Horse)
    or the Falcon MkII to a lesser extent, leave the land mines alone.
    Mines are very obvious in appearance and when hit, create a section
    of damaged track (see section 6.11). They take a small section of
    your energy meter away and can be a help or a hindrance.
    But how can they be a help...? Well it’s quite simple: if you use a
    tank like the Silver Thunder and especially the “eternal tank” - The
    Jet Vermillion - you’re in business, because not only do the mines
    deal a very small amount of damage to strong machines, but all
    machines can gain a speed advantage out of land mines. You may or
    may not have noticed when you hit one, your speed increases. This is
    a great thing for those who struggle to get to top speed early
    enough to make an impact with the Jet Vermillion. Now all you have
    to do is clip the mine - don’t run head on into it, but graze its
    side and spurt off at approx. 550km/h in the direction you wanted to
    go in. Now this would be even better if it dealt minimal damage, I
    hear you saying - but it’s a “gain a bit and lose a bit” situation.
    You mustn’t hit so many of the bombs that you lose a lot of energy
    and begin to suffer from low power. You must hit the right balance.
    I should also warn you that quite often the rebound of the mine can
    be a bit difficult to control ,but if you practise a lot, you’ll get
    6.7   Spin Markers
    Appearing on Queen 3, these small, round, gray thingies spin you
    around 180 degrees. They can be frustrating for a beginner, but they
    are actually quite easy to avoid, even when boosting. Some spin
    markers will actually spin you in the general direction of where you
    wanted to go, but this is unlikely. Generally speaking, you’ll go
    either into a wall and drop one or two places, or you’ll go into two
    walls and drop some more places. They are situated in a very easy to
    remember pattern around Queen 3, so you shouldn’t have any problems
    remembering where they are and therefore avoiding them.
    6.8   Black Bombs
    This is the best name I could come up with for these. They come in
    the opposite direction to you, but at a very slow speed, so they are
    not that had to avoid. As with land mines, you lose energy from your
    power bar if you hit one, but also with mines, you can use them to
    your advantage. If you need a boost but don’t have one, just graze
    the side of one of these, and enjoy a speed boost. Of course, you
    still lose some energy, but there is no need to worry about hitting
    one or two of these.
    6.9   Gravity Belts
    I’m not exactly sure what these are called, but they appear most
    noticeably after the second jump on Queen 5. They flash in different
    colours and pull your craft to the surface, therefore (obviously)
    reducing the jumping distance of your craft. This can be quite
    frustrating, especially when you are trying to pass an opponent by
    flying over him.
    6.10   Pull Magnets
    Like giant conveyor belts, they pull you from one side of the course
    to the other. Well, it’s not as bad as that sounds. “Moving section
    of track that is easily recognisable and seen well in advance which
    does you no damage” is a better and more accurate name, but it’s too
    long. These appear on Bishop 3’s Crater Land course, which is heaps
    of fun for all. If you use L and R to slide in the opposite
    direction to that of the belts, you will almost completely negate
    the effect of them and everything will return to normal.
    6.11   Damaged Track
    This can appear as part of the course, or from the connection of
    machine and land mine (but not machine and black bomb). You lose
    some damage when going over this, so there is no need to go out of
    your way to hit it. On the other hand, if you can’t avoid it, then
    there’s no real damage done. On Knight 3 - the great Explosive
    Circuit at Synobazz - make sure you make the jump before the massive
    sections of Damaged Track, because with that much of the stuff
    around, there is no point going through it, and you’ll lose heaps of
    energy. Plus it’s quicker to take the jump.
    7.0   HINTS AND TIPS
    It wouldn’t surprise me if you need help with this game. It is quite
    challenging, and I’m not going to bad mouth anyone who hasn’t beaten
    master difficulty yet. If you haven’t beaten Expert, well, then this
    section is definitely for you. All the hints, tips, cheats and other
    stuff that you’ll need to win.
    7.1   Unlocking machines and courses
    Pretty self-explanatory here. Just do what it says and you’ll get the
    Dirty Joker:      Beat the Pawn, Knight & Bishop series on Standard.
    The Stingray:     Beat all Pawn, Knight and Bishop tracks on Expert.
    Silver Thunder:   Beat one series on Master difficulty.
    Falcon MK-II:     Beat all four series on Expert (including queen).
    Fighting Comet:   Beat Master Class on all four Series.
    Jet Vermilion:    You have to complete each GP on Master difficulty
                      with each machine. Or you can also get it by
                      finishing the championship course 255 times. Or do
                      the cheat (I really don’t recommend it though)
                      that can be found in section 7.4.
    Queen Series:     Beat Pawn, Knight and Bishop on Expert.
    Championship      Register a ranking-worthy time in every course and
    Mode:             every series, to unlock the 21st track.
    Master            You must beat a series on Expert to unlock Master
    difficulty:       difficulty. Note that you will only unlock the
                      Master difficulty mode for that series.
    7.2   Expert Techniques
    The Expert Techniques are essential for winning on the higher
    difficulty levels of Expert and Master. You need the Rocket Start to
    get out in front early, the Long Jump technique to make the
    shortcuts and the Blast Turns to make those corners which you, well.
    wouldn’t have made otherwise.
    Rocket Start
    Unlike most rocket starts in racing games, F-Zero: Maximum Velocity
    requires the racer to have his engine in a revved up, but not high-
    pitch sounding noise. Don’t make it too soft or high-pitched,
    because then you will either start normally or slow down
    ridiculously a few hundred meters into the race.
    Blast Turn
    Tapping the accelerator while turning is how you can execute a blast
    turn. That’s as simple as it gets in this game, and this should take
    less than ten minutes to master. Otherwise, you’re stuffed.
    Although, you will learn later about all the cornering techniques
    available to you.
    Long Jump
    By pressing down on the Control Pad, you can increase the distance
    of your jumps. This is great for getting the few extra inches
    required to pull off the shortcuts in F-Zero. Also, keep holding
    down until after landing, so that your machines lands safely and
    doesn’t lose speed and energy when landing.
    7.3   General Tips
    Beating the CPU, cornering techniques, general hints... it’s all
    There are many ways of making corners in F-Zero, in addition to the
    blatantly obvious “steer with the control pad” idea. While it isn’t
    hard to make the turns, the top pilots are not out to just make the
    corners, they are out to make them brilliantly. And by using strafe
    running/drift turns, lean turns, blast turns and more, making these
    turns has never been so easy. In principle...
    Blast Turns
    Explained in Expert Techniques above.
    Drift Turns
    THE technique to master for setting the fastest possible times in F-
    Zero, Drift Turns are complicated but so effective that you’ll never
    want to stop using it. It’s not only a great timesaver, but it’s
    also fun to use - the fun gained by skidding along sideways at high
    speed is almost unexplainable. Similar to strafe-running (in a very
    obscure way), drift turns are done by turning one way, holding the
    OPPOSITE shoulder button, and tapping the accelerator until you
    start moving forward, and then floor it, and if you have done it
    properly you’ll have just taken the corner at a higher speed than
    ever before, and come out of the corner at a much higher speed than
    you previously thought possible. Hang on though, I did say before
    “Until you start moving forward”? Yes, you will be almost going
    sideways, and yes, you will have major problems trying it if you’re
    a beginner to F-Zero: Maximum Velocity. But once mastered, this
    technique will cut heaps of seconds off your times. Just remember to
    use the opposite shoulder button, and if it doesn’t work, chances
    are you’re not using the accelerator correctly. Just practice on
    courses like the two Ancient Mesa courses, and for practice on
    courses without ice, try Queen 1 and/or Pawn 1, easy courses where
    drift turns make all the difference.
    You probably should also note that you need a fair bit of room to do
    a decent Drift Turn if you’re a beginner, so forget trying it for
    the first time on a course with heaps of skinny sections. It works
    best with machines like the Jet Vermillion, Fighting Comet and The
    Stingray that you will otherwise have a few difficulties getting the
    best out of.
    Lean Turns
    Done by using the corresponding shoulder button in conjunction with
    the control pad. This is something you should be using immediately.
    It’s really easy, and for everyone who played the sensational F-Zero
    X on the Nintendo 64, it’s the same as sliding, but you don’t lose
    any speed for doing it. It makes turns almost as sharply as with
    Blast Turns, but you don’t lose that little bit of speed.
    This seems so minor, but it’s usefulness cannot be underestimated.
    Use drifting to its best effect when going in and out of pit lanes,
    but also at corners like the one near the end of Knight 2, and the
    many others I just can’t quite remember where a minor deviation is
    needed. Just drift, and with a slight turn, or at low speed, no turn
    at all, you breeze through little corners like that one. Another
    great use of drifting is where the conveyor belt thingies are in
    Pawn 1, you need to avoid the dart zone directly afterwards. Drift
    right (or left, depending on your preference and machine) to miss
    the dart zone. Note that drifting is done by using the Left and
    Right shoulder buttons, for those who don’t know the controls
    properly, and also that you lose absolutely no speed while drifting,
    making it the preferable option to a slight control pad adjustment.
    Hugging the Corners
    It might seem a bit obvious, but some people never learn that the
    sharper you take a corner, the less time it takes. And faster times
    mean better a Grand Prix placing or larger bragging rates, depending
    on your mode of gameplay. There’s nothing wrong with “electrocuting”
    yourself at corners, by going slightly through the protective
    barriers at the side of the corners. Unless, you go too far, and you
    start to lose speed. You need to recognise that you can’t gain time
    this way - and therefore it’s simply not worth it (duh). Some things
    you have to repeat for the idiots of the gaming world.
    That’s it for the cornering, but this isn’t the only way that you
    can save time - there’s also shortcuts.
    It’s important to note that almost every jump is either a shortcut
    for the machines that jump far or an overtaking opportunity for
    everyone else. But I’m also including the dart zones you can boost
    over to save time in this section, because I couldn’t think of a
    better place to put them. Oh yeah, please notes that for tanks like
    the Jet Vermillion, these shortcuts may be a bit hard.
    Pawn 1
    The jump plate just before the first major corner is a shortcut. All
    you have to do is hit it, and jump the corner. You can also boost
    through the massive dart zone - a huge timesaver.
    Pawn 4
    Boosting through the dirt means higher speed, a more direct route
    and less cornering. A win-win-win situation.
    Pawn 5
    At the major jump, take the left boost and start turning left. You
    should “rejoin” the course at such a mad angle that you fly straight
    Knight 4
    The jump here is a shortcut, but a hard one to do. Firstly, make
    sure you are boosting, as you’ll struggle to make it without boost.
    Hit as far left on the jump as you can without actually hitting the wall,
    and turn as sharply left as you possibly can. You’ll avoid a fair bit of
    the course when you land on the home stretch.
    Knight 5
    Boost through the dart zone stuff if you go left at the split road.
    Bishop 4
    Two shortcuts here. The first one is the jump just before the ice
    starts - hit it and fly over the corner. The next jump is the second
    shortcut. Boost before jumping, and avoid the tight hairpin by
    flying over the gap and back onto the track just before the sharp
    left turn into the home straight.
    Queen 1
    Use the boost plate and first jump plate to fly over the corner, and
    then boost through the dart zone because chances are after the
    shortcut you are going to miss the jump plate.
    Queen 2
    Really hard to do, only try these shortcuts if your machine is going
    at full speed and has an A class jump. So Jet Vermillion users -
    ignore the following shortcut - you won’t be able to do it. At the
    second jump, boost, and turn very sharply to the left. You may or
    may not be able to do it, but if you can, you can back it up by a
    45 degree turn to the right after the next jump and cut even more
    corners. As I said, it is hard, but with some practice you should be
    able to achieve it.
    Queen 5
    At the first jump, turn right and dodge the corner and mines. This,
    if done perfectly, will land you in the right path to get the second
    jump (which isn’t a shortcut) without too much alteration of your
    Take either jump and fly across, cutting the corner. This is
    something that the Hot Violet ghost does not do which you must.
    >> Whatever you do, do not use the Jet Vermillion if you can't get a
    rocket start with it. Or if you can’t do perfect blast and lean
    turns. In fact, don’t use it unless you can keep it off the walls
    for a whole five laps without braking.
    >> Always avoid spin markers even more so than bombs. On master
    mode, spin markers can drop you from first to tenth.
    >> Only use a machine you can steer. So for all you beginners who
    have just used the Jet Vermillion code - wait.
    >> Practice a course you're not good at until you know where every
    jump, boost, shortcut, corner and mine is.
    >> Practice makes perfect - don't ever give up. You’re completely
    entitled to get frustrated and annoyed, but don’t go and sell the
    game second-hand after five hours because you can’t turn 180 degree
    corners, or you can’t come first on expert on every course.
    >> Use every shortcut in the game. The CPU machines will cheat so
    much that you’ll need it to keep in front/get in front, and it’s
    also required for setting fast times.
    >> Master rocket starts, blast turns, lean turns and the long jump
    >> The Jet Vermillion is not a Grand Prix machine.
    >> Championship is the ultimate practice course - it has a bit of
    everything - mines, boost plates, jumps, shortcuts, dart zones,
    sharp corners, skinny track etc. The list of features to this course
    go on and on and if you want to practice your [insert skill here],
    you can do it on the Championship course.
    Forget winning every Grand Prix on master with every machine - this
    is how you get the Jet Vermillion. However, I don’t exactly look too
    favourably on this - you can be honest and get it via Championship.
    I used the cheat because I thought the ways to unlock the Jet
    Vermillion were to - set - 255 times in Championship or beat every
    Grand Prix on master with every machine. These were two very
    unenviable tasks that I don’t have the time or the patience to do.
    Anyway, on with the code:
    Go to the following URL:
    >> http://www.nintendo.co.jp/n08/afzj/vermil/index.html
    and on the keyboard section at the very bottom of the page, enter
    the name of the save you are using, then press enter (the right-hand
    button for those of you who don't read Japanese). This will give you
    a password. Now on the machine select screen for the Grand Prix,
    press L, R, Start, R, L, Select to enter the password screen. Now
    enter your password - case sensitive - and you'll have the Jet
    Vermillion. It will appear as a selectable machine above (in Grand
    Prix) or to the left (in Practice) of the Hot Violet.
    Note: this will only work for your name, and once you have done
    this, it can not be undone without deleting your save game file.
    Thanks to the F-Zero: Maximum Velocity Secrets File (written by John
    Riccardi - madoushi@raverpants.com) at GameFAQ’s for revealing this
    code to me.
               If you have got a glitch or seen something that was
               crazy in F-Zero, then e-mail me: wheels128@ignmail.com.
    1. You may have noticed that on Queen 2 - the Plummet Circuit with
    so many jumps - the slow machines never seem to make the jumps. Yet
    they always come back ,only to keep missing the jumps. It gets even
    worse, though, because once I had a mid-air collision with the J.B.
    Crystal on lap one, and he didn’t make it, because I saw that
    machine “disappear in a flash of light”. However, he rammed me into
    the wall just before a jump on lap five. I failed to make the jump
    due to my loss of speed, and had to redo the course. Why then, when
    you’re knocked off the course do you have to redo it when the CPU
    machines don’t? Or why don’t they just stay dead when they are
    More coming soon...
    9.0   RANKINGS
    What’s the point of Ranking passwords?
    Ranking passwords are a way of comparing F-Zero gamers worldwide in
    a best-of-the-best, world championship idea, without having to hold
    a massive tournament somewhere in Japan or the USA, where no-one
    from outside that country would attend.
    How do I get my passwords?
    To get your code, enter the Rankings screen, choose a class, then
    choose your name, and choose the track you want to know the code
    for. Now hold L, and then press Up, Right, Right, B, Left, B, Right,
    A. The tracks subtitle (e.g. Stretch Circuit, Ultimate Circuit)will
    change into a code. This is your ranking password for that course.
    Where do I use my password?
    At the official Japanese Nintendo site, you can insert your password
    along with some details about yourself in their form at the bottom
    of this page:
    >> http://www.nintendo.co.jp/n08/afzj/kiroku/index.html
    This page is also where those fast times are shown, which are very,
    very quick. Some of those times I think are impossible for the
    average gamer to get close to.
    F-Zero links and other gaming sites
    My Site: fzc.cjb.net
    F-Zero Central will be the home of F-Zero racing on the internet
    when it’s finished - look for it by mid-September.
    F-Zero: Maximum Velocity Players Site: surf.to/fzeromv
    The place for you to send your fast times and talk F-Zero.
    FzeroX - groups.yahoo.com/group/fzerox
    F-Zero X is still popular, judging by the amount of people who use
    this group. This is the player’s site for F-Zero X
    F-Zero Advance Microsite: www.gameboy.com/fzeroadvance
    A pretty poor effort by Nintendo for the site - they could have done
    a lot better. But it’s the OFFICIAL SITE for the game.
    Nintendo Japan - F-Zero Advance: www.nintendo.co.jp/n08/afzj/kiroku/
    Nintendo of Japan has heaps of information - but it’s in Japanese.
    Also check the following gaming sites:
      > games.ign.com - great resource for all consoles
      > gamefaqs.com - ultimate place for faq’s and guides
      > nintensity.com - the best gamecube site on the internet
      > gamespot.com - another good general gaming site
    11.0   CREDITS
    I’ve probably left out everyone important, but here goes:
    Thanks to everyone who wrote an faq on F-Zero (John Riccardi, Hylian
    Hero, Phil Armstrong, Darren@everden.com and everyone else I’ve
    forgotten), Nintendo and everyone at Nintendo for bringing out such
    a great game, Christian Miller, Wes McKinney, Dave Crawford, and
    everyone else who is/was involved in the F-Zero players site. Thanks
    also to gamefaqs.com for being a great host of message boards and
    guides/faq’s/walkthroughs for all games on all consoles.
    And most of all, thanks to you, the gamers, who support the F-Zero
    series and who read my guide.
    Version 1.0 - began the guide. It’s quite extensive and took me a
                  while to complete.
    Version 1.1 - I will have more conclusive track guides, that cover
                  everything you need to know on each course. I may have
                  a guide for the Silence Open C course as well.
                  A translation guide for those who imported the game from
                  Japan will also be included in the next version.
    Want to see something else covered?
    Then E-mail me: wheels128@ignmail.com

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