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    FAQ by Korasoff

    Version: 1.0 | Updated: 06/18/02 | Search Guide | Bookmark Guide

    FAQ V 1.0, June 18th, 2002
    By Korasoff (korasoff@hushmail.com)
    FAQ history:
    1.0 (June 18th, 2002): FAQ created! The sections are Introduction, Which 
    Driver To Choose, Which Ride To Choose, The Upgrades, The Races, Racing Tips, 
    and Conclusion.
    1) Introduction
    2) Which Driver To Choose
    3) Which Ride To Choose
    4) The Upgrades
    5) The Races
    6) Racing Tips
    7) Conclusion
    1) HEADIN' OUT ON THE HIGHWAY... (Introduction)
    Rock N' Roll Racing may very well be my favorite racing game of all time. 
    Created in 1993 by Silicon and Synapse (the guys who also made Lost Vikings 
    1 & 2 for the SNES, and who turned out to be Blizzard Entertainment, makers 
    of Warcraft I, II, & III, Diablo I & II, and Starcraft for PC), it boasts 
    colorful graphics, a split-screen two-player mode, and probably the most 
    awesome soundtrack a SNES game ever got. It's not a very complicated game, 
    not by a long shot, but there are a few secrets, tricks, and general advice 
    anyone could benefit from. Hence, this FAQ.
    Controls are quite simple. The B button is your throttle - get to know it, 
    intimately. I find the best way to drive is t hold B with my thumb and to 
    crook my index above so I can reach the other three main buttons: Y is your 
    main weapon, X your boost (which can be Jump Jets or Nitros), and A lays down 
    mines. Start will pause the game (giving you the option to chicken out of 
    the current race if you're losing). The left arrow on the control pad will 
    make your car turn left (its left, not yours), ditto for the right arrow. 
    L and R are "hard turns" you can make if you're in danger of hitting something 
    or if you missed a power-up or turn. You can use L or R in addition with the 
    left or right arrow for controlled spin-outs! Finally, the down arrow on the 
    control pad allows you to brake - but to quote the manual, "Who brakes in 
    Rock N' Roll Racing?"
    I strongly suggest you play this game on a good old SNES system, or, barring 
    that, with a Joypad on your PC. The controls will be much more intuitive. 
    Also, I can't get the Olaf trick (See Section 2 below) to work on a PC keyboard.
    One weakness of RNRR is that you can't save your game. Instead, you have to 
    note a lengthy password, which you can find in the F/X menu on the main screen.
    There are two different modes to RNRR. The first, New Game, lets you drive 
    in a championship. You amass points and prize money to get better cars and 
    improve them. When you collect enough points, you move on to a new planet, 
    where you'll face new terrain and a new local driver. After you complete the 
    required numbers of planets, you'll win the game. The second mode is VS Mode. 
    The goal is not to get money, since you can buy new cars for free, and they 
    come to you *fully* upgraded. Points are also of no importance whatsoever, 
    since you can move between the 5 first planets freely (there's a trick to 
    get to the sixth). The only real role points serve is as a measure of your 
    talent: play with a friend and see who can amass the most points in a set 
    number of races!
    2) PEOPLE THINK I'M INSANE (Which Driver To Choose)
    All drivers have different abilities. Choose one who fits your style or who 
    compensates for your own weaknesses. It's important to understand that no 
    driver sucks totally, but once you get the Havac those with Jumping are at 
    a disadvantage - although before that, they need to spend almost zero money 
    on shock absorbers.
    1 - Snake Sanders (Homeland: Terra)
    Acceleration +1, Top Speed +1
    Verdict: Snake is all speed, baby. His lack of Cornering makes him a tough 
    choice for Rookies, but I highly recommend him once you've mastered the basics 
    and know the tracks inside and out. The driver of choice for skilled Veteran 
    players and the grizzled Warrior.
    2 - Cyberhawk (Homeland: Serpentis)
    Acceleration +1, Jumping +1
    Verdict: I said no driver sucked, but Cyberhawk is the least good of them. 
    And it's a shame, such cool art... I'm not saying you can't win with this 
    driver, just that you better have some experience under your belt before you 
    pick him. He doesn't give you much of an edge on any level of difficulty.
    3 - Ivanzypher (Homeland: Fleagull)
    Jumping +1, Top Speed +1
    Verdict: He's better than Cyberhawk. An average driver, but I kinda like him. 
    Very good on the early tracks.
    4 - Katarina Lyons (Homeland: Panteros V)
    Jumping +1, Cornering +1
    Verdict: Also an average driver. She's all about control: choosing Katarina 
    will give you one smooth race. Oh yeah, and she's the only woman driver you 
    can choose, so girls who play RNRR usually pick her. An alternate choice for 
    the Rookie who's afraid of high speeds - but if that's your case, maybe you're 
    playing the wrong game, pal.
    5 - Jake Badlands (Homeland: Xeno Prime)
    Acceleration +1, Cornering +1
    Verdict: Now we're talking. Probably the best choice for a Rookie just 
    starting out. Acceleration means you can recover quicker from mistakes, and 
    Cornering means less of them. He's not bad at higher difficulty levels.
    6 - Tarquinn (Homeland: Aurora)
    Top Speed +1, Cornering +1
    Verdict: The opposite of Cyberhawk: doesn't look like much, but packs quite 
    a punch. The combination of Top Speed and Cornering owns big time. After 
    you've finished the Rookie level with Jake, consider switching to Tarquinn 
    for Veteran and Warrior.
    7 - Olaf (Homeland: Valhalla)
    Acceleration +1, Top Speed +1, Cornering +1
    Verdict: He's got three abilities (and the best ones!), so of course he's 
    the top driver. Still, he's hard to get... At the driver selection screen, 
    hold down L, R, and Select, then scroll to the end of the list. The last driver 
    will be Olaf. I feel as if I'm cheating whenever I pick him, though. A good 
    choice for any level of difficulty. (In case you were wondering, Olaf is a 
    character from Silicon and Synapse's other hit SNES game, Lost Vikings.)
    3) NOBODY'S GONNA STEAL MY CAR (Which Ride To Choose)
    Fast Eddie, a furry-toothed slick salesman, will provide you with new 
    vehicles to race. New cars cost quite a bit, but they all have different 
    armaments (except for the Marauder and the Dirt Devil) and even special 
    Dirt Devil (18,000$)
    VK Plasma Rifles, Locust Jump Jets, BF's Slipsauce
    Availability: Chem VI, Drakonis.
    Verdict: One of your initial two choices. Has better handling than the 
    Marauder but isn't as fast. Basically, if you have someone with Cornering 
    abilities, pick the Marauder. And even if you don't have Cornering, try to 
    stay away from the Devil as a general rule - although one wicked bit of fun 
    is choosing the DD in VS mode and going to NHO. Atlas Power Claws? Let the 
    party begin!
    Marauder (18,000$)
    VK Plasma Rifles, Locust Jump Jets, BF's Slipsauce
    Availability: Chem VI, Drakonis, Bogmire, New Mojave.
    Verdict: My favorite initial car, way above the Dirt Devil (isn't that a 
    vacuum cleaner, by the way? No wonder it sucks!). It has the exact same 
    armaments as the DD, slightly looser handling, but definitely better speed. 
    Highly recommended for your first ride.
    Air Blade (70,000$)
    Rogue Missiles, Lightning Nitros, Bear Claw Mines
    Availability: Chem VI, Drakonis, New Mojave, NHO, Inferno.
    Verdict: Your second vehicle. An all-around better ride than the two initial 
    choices, plus with better armaments (Yee-Haw, Nitro!). Veterans and Warriors 
    have two different strategies with this one: either upgrade your 
    Marauder/Dirt Devil and skip the Air Blade completely on your way to the 
    Battle Trak, or save your money and get the Air Blade ASAP with few upgrades 
    for your initial vehicle. Rookies should upgrade their initial vehicle, then 
    switch to the Air Blade once they get to Drakonis, and even then, if you won 
    quite a few races and got a good engine, you can keep that Marauder/Dirt Devil 
    a little longer.
    Battle Trak (110,000$)
    Rogue Missiles, Lightning Nitros, K.O Scatterpacks
    Availability: Bogmire, New Mojave, NHO, Inferno.
    Verdict: Holy crap. Now there's a good ride. Two advantages over the Air 
    Blade: better mines (Scatterpacks beat Bear Claws any time of the day), and 
    *insane* handling, without having to invest even one dollar in tires! The 
    first few races, you'll hit corners head on 'cause you're too used to 
    slipping! (Watch out for water puddles and the like, though, they still affect 
    the Battle Trak). When you get a better engine, though, the Battle Trak starts 
    to slip a little... Friendly advice: don't get the Atlas Power Boss on this 
    one. The Battle Trak is a life-saver on New Mojave, but loses its cornering 
    power once you get to NHO because of the ice. At that point you can get the...
    Havac (130,000$)
    Sundog Beams, Lightning Nitros, K.O Scatterpacks
    Availability: NHO, Inferno.
    Verdict: One nice vehicle for NHO's frozen tracks. Completely ignores terrain 
    and traction (although the banks of snow on NHO and the green slime on Drakonis 
    will still affect you). Its Sundog Beam is a great weapon: the little red 
    spheres home in on the closest competitor without any need of aiming! On top 
    of that, you don't have to invest any money in tires or shock absorbers. I 
    like to upgrade my Battle Trak on Bogmire and New Mojave until I have level 
    three upgrades for everything. Then, I start saving money for the Havac. This 
    usually happens halfway through New Mojave's Division B - but hey, I'm real 
    Gordo the slimeball is always ready to make improvements to your ride... for 
    a price. I don't need to go into great detail about armaments upgrades: 
    upgrading weapons, boosts, or mines once will give you one more charge during 
    a race, that's all, up to a maximum of 7 (initial 1 + 6 possible upgrades). 
    There's no way to make armaments more effective other than getting a new car 
    with better ones. Oh yeah, and in case you hadn't noticed, during a race, 
    your armaments will recharge completely every time you finish a lap - talk 
    about quick pit stops! Here are the costs for upgrades (x1):
    VK Plasma Rifles: 14,000$
    Locust Jump Jets: 6,000$
    BF's Slipsauce: 20,000$
    Rogue Missiles: 20,000$
    Lightning Nitros: 24,000$
    Bear Claw Mines: 20,000$
    KO Scatterpacks: 24,000$
    Sundog Beams: 20,000$
    Upgrading your ride is *vital*. Each car has its own characteristics, and 
    the driver you choose also impacts its performance, but even if you have Snake 
    Sanders you won't win unless you get a better engine to increase your speed.
    Engine upgrades:
    Cobra Mark VII (Start), War Hammer (40,000$), Super Charger (70,000$), Atlas 
    Power Boss (110,000$).
    Your engine influences the acceleration and top speed of your car. One of 
    the first upgrades you should get with a new vehicle you just bought and intend 
    to soup up. They are the costliest, though, and higher speed means a decrease 
    in your car's handling capacities.
    Body upgrades:
    Defender (Start), Rhino Skin (24,000$), Saber Tooth (48,000$), Atlas 
    Powerplate (64,000$).
    Upgrading the body gives your ride more toughness (the colored dots in the 
    top-right corner of the racing screen indicate how many hits you can take). 
    I'm unsure if it makes you deal more damage to someone you ram, though. Quite 
    useful, and once you leave Chem VI you'll need at least Rhino Skin to survive 
    for long.
    Shock absorbers upgrades:
    Grasshoppers (Start), Hydrosprings (20,000$), Hydro Twinpacks (40,000$), 
    Atlas Power Lifts (60,000$).
    As their name implies, shocks absorb the impact of landing. The least 
    important upgrade... Get Hydrosprings last of the first round of upgrades 
    and stick with those for a while. Don't waste cash on Atlas Power Lifts unless 
    you're *swimming* in dough. If your driver has Jumping +1, ignore those. Note 
    that you cannot upgrade shock absorbers on the Havac (it's hovering!).
    Tires upgrades:
    Track Masters (Start), Road Warriors (30,000$), Super Mudwhumpers (50,000$), 
    Atlas Power Claws (70,000$)
    Handling's the game. With better tires, you'll slip and slide less. Watch 
    out: when you upgrade tires, your car's handling will improve noticeably, 
    so loosen your driving a tad in the first few races (i.e. let the car slip 
    a little further - your new tires will compensate) to get used. The first 
    upgrade you should get if you don't have Cornering. Note that you can only 
    upgrade tires on the Marauder, the Dirt Devil, and the Air Blade. The Battle 
    Trak has perfect handling, and the Havac hovers.
    The two twins of the bad hairdo, Rip and Shred, follow you from planet to 
    planet. Rip's car is gray and Shred's is brown - but both drive last year's 
    model and aren't too sharp. The fourth competitor is planet-specific, and 
    usually much better than Rip and Shred. That guy has the latest car (colored 
    deep purple - get it?) and isn't afraid to use its "gadgets"...
    When you start on a new planet, you'll be in Division B. To get past the rugged 
    Captain Braddock and into Division A (which slightly increases the level of 
    difficulty and sometimes changes one of the twin's cars to the current model), 
    you need to amass a certain amount of points. Points and prize money are 
    awarded to the first three drivers to finish a race as such:
    First place nets you 400 points and 10,000$
    Second place nets you 200 points and 7,000$
    Third place nets you 100 points and 4,000$
    (There are other ways to get cash. If you blow up a "fellow" competitor with 
    weapons or K.O. Scatterpack mines, you'll get 1000$. Picking up the gold 
    ingots laying about the track by driving over them will net you 1000$ for 
    each one. Finally, if you're in first place and pass the driver in last place, 
    you'll get a lapping bonus worth 5000$!)
    Once you get enough points in Division A (same amount as you needed for 
    Division B) you can move on to the next planet. Sit down, strap in, and watch 
    the animation. I suggest you finish all the races you can to amass as much 
    dough as possible. Cash = cool rides and upgrades. Don't forget it!
    The following is a list of the planets, local drivers and their cars, and 
    info about the races. On Rookie level, you'll get to race on planets 1 to 
    3. On Veteran, it's 1-5, and only Warriors can compete on all 6 planets.
    1- Chem VI
    Local Driver: Viper MacKay (Marauder)
    # of races per Division: 8
    Points needed to advance to Division A/Move to the next planet: 1600
    Viper isn't too dangerous. He knows how to use his Plasma Rifles, though. 
    The tracks here are quite simple and don't have any obstacles. Basically, 
    if you have trouble here, read the FAQ and you should get better.
    2 - Drakonis
    Local Driver: Grinder X19 (Air Blade)
    # of races: 10
    Points needed: 2000
    Grinder X19 is Cyberhawk's arch-nemesis. If you don't have an Air Blade yet, 
    Grinder will take the lead with his Nitros. Drakonis' races are a bit more 
    twisty and feature the first true puddle, the infamous green slime that will 
    slow you down to a crawl. Puddles never change places (unlike power-ups), 
    so learn where they are - and learn to avoid them. You'll also encounter the 
    first red arrow, which gives you a super speed boost if you drive on it. Until 
    you get to Inferno, use them!
    3 - Bogmire
    Local Driver: Ragewortt (Battle Trak)
    # of races: 12
    Points needed: 2900
    He's a threat in his Battle Trak. Let him ahead and then blast him to bits! 
    I like the tracks on Bogmire: not too complicated and with plenty of speed. 
    Blue noxious puddles will cause you to slip and wipe-out.
    4- New Mojave
    Local Driver: Roadkill Kelly (Battle Trak)
    # of races: 14
    Points needed: 3200
    Roadkill is a lot like Ragewortt, only insane. The tracks here are intricate 
    at times, but I love them! (Especially the cross, you'll know it when you 
    see it.) Black oil causes you to slip, exactly like on Bogmire.
    5 - NHO
    Local driver: Butcher Icebone (Havac)
    # of races: 14
    Points needed: 3200
    Butcher is one of the most frustrating drivers out there. He starts out with 
    the Havac and its homing Sundog Beam... Better get a Havac of your own to 
    compete. One piece of advice: stay put until he runs out of ammo. Banks of 
    snow replace puddles here, but they serve the exact same purpose as the green 
    slime on Drakonis: slow you the hell down. Tracks here become real mazes. 
    Don't feel ashamed if you get screwed the first time you race them.
    6 - Inferno     (I haven't had time to reach Inferno )
    Local driver:   (yet, working on it, but I don't have)
    # of races:     (the codes with me... And I prefer to)
    Points needed:  (go through the whole Warrior level. )
    (Note: you can get to Inferno in VS mode by using the same trick you use to 
    get Olaf: when you're at the planet selection screen, just hold down L,R, 
    and Select, and then scroll to the end of the list. Inferno will appear.)
    1 - The Late Start (Veteran and Warrior)
    Many beginners just hit the throttle as soon as the race starts. Instead, 
    wait a split second for the others to take a small lead - one length of a 
    car, no more. Then, hit the gas, and fire your weapons! If you have enough 
    shots, you'll blow up a car (netting you a cool 1000$) and basically take 
    one competitor out of the race for a while. There's also a chance the two 
    others will waste their weapons on each other so that you can pass them safely. 
    If they don't, just tail them for a lap and repeat the above process, or use 
    your mines.
    2 - Mines
    Mines are nifty little gadgets. They lack the simplicity of weapons but can 
    shake those bothersome drivers sticking to your six. BF's Slipsauce will 
    cause them to, well, *slip* out of control, if you have good aim. The second 
    downside to Slipsauce is that it stays on the track, meaning you'll have to 
    deal with it too in one lap - so be smart and use only what you absolutely 
    need. Bear Claw Mines drop down and explode when someone runs over them, and 
    like Slipsauce, you need to aim well. They also stay on the track if no one 
    comes in contact with them, but are overall easier to avoid. If you have 
    someone right behind you, Bear Claws will give them a nice jolt, causing a 
    slight loss of control - although blowing up someone with those gives you 
    no attack bonus. Finally, KO Scatterpacks, when let loose, expand into a mine 
    field right behind you, which means you can be a little less careful about 
    aiming. Extremely powerful when someone is tailing you, but they don't remain 
    on the track for long - which, in a way, is a plus, because you won't have 
    to deal with them next lap. (If you're quick, you've already understood that 
    during the last lap you should use *all* your mines: since the race will be 
    over soon, you won't have to avoid them, and let's not waste anything, right?)
    Sometimes you run out of weapons when the guy just in front of you is 
    smoking... Time to use them mines! (Of course, this trick only applies to 
    Bear Claws and Scatterpacks). Cut the next corner short to get in front of 
    him, and hit A... Boom! One less competitor to worry about, and an attack 
    bonus if you used K.O. Scatterpacks.
    3 - Nitros
    Nitro owns you. Bursts of Nitros increase your top speed for a while, but, 
    more importantly, they make you accelerate *real* fast. Use them after 
    blowing up to get back in the race, after you screwed up a corner, or after 
    you stepped in some Slipsauce. Use them when coming out of turns to get back 
    to top speed. Contrary to popular opinion, using a Nitro burst just *before* 
    a corner will make it easier to turn! Something about aerodynamics and drag, 
    I believe. But for the love of Jesus, don't use them when there are bumps 
    and climbs! Aim straight or you'll fly right off the track!
    It's definitely worth it to get more than 1 Nitro. In fact, for my Battle 
    Trak, I stop at level three upgrades (for engine, body, and shocks) and then 
    get only Nitros. If you can get an Air Blade on Chem VI, you'll see the 
    difference they make.
    4 - The Shortest Way
    There are two ways to turn 90 degrees corners. The first is for people with 
    little handling (bad tires or okay tires with no Cornering ability). Follow 
    the center of the track, and when the turn is almost on you, turn hard so 
    that you'll slip the rest of the way, but facing the new direction. This works 
    best with drivers who have Acceleration +1. If you have good handling (good 
    tires or okay tires + Cornering), then use the pro method: stick a little 
    more to the outside, and cut the corner at about a 45 degrees angle. Once 
    you've passed the turn resume direct course. These two methods assume there 
    are no obstacles in your way or power-ups you want to grab.
    5 - How To Upgrade Your Ride (Veteran and Warrior)
    So, you want to make it a killer racing machine - in that order? Sure. Start 
    with getting the Rhino Skin upgrade for 24,000$ so you'll be able to actually 
    survive for more than ten seconds. Remember, you can ram opponents to cause 
    damage, and the bonus to your own car's resistance is excellent. Next get 
    Road Warriors tires for 30,000$, it's handling you dearly need, especially 
    if you don't have Cornering. You now have a choice: get one weapon upgrade 
    or the War Hammer engine for 40,000$. You don't need more than 1 Jump Jet, 
    but you can get a few more Nitros and mines too (2-3). If you can get Nitro, 
    consider getting one extra charge before getting the War Hammer. If you got 
    Scatterpacks, you can get as many as 4-5. Alternate with weapon upgrades and 
    other ones, depending on your needs and the track. Get Hydrosprings last of 
    all, and possibly not until you get the Super Mudwhumpers tires. Shocks aren't 
    useless, but they're not as good as the other upgrades. As I said above, if 
    you have Jumping +1, completely ignore shocks.
    If you're upgrading your Marauder/DD or an Air Blade, you should start saving 
    money at some point for your next car (I suggest after getting the first 
    upgrade for tires, engine, body, and one weapon). If it's a Battle Trak or 
    a Hovercraft, you can further customize it for deadly power - with the Atlas 
    Engine and Top Speed +1, you'll be the fastest thing on wheels (or air 
    6)  Conclusion
    Well, that's it! Thanks for reading. I hope this FAQ helped you a bit. If 
    you have further questions THAT ARE NOT COVERED IN THIS FAQ (read it first), 
    or just want to drop me a line to thank me, then you can email me at 
    korasoff@hushmail.com. Also, if you have any information or tips you want 
    to submit, feel free. Check out the codes on gamefaqs.com before you submit 
    any to me, though. Just go to the Rock N' Roll Racing section where you found 
    this and click on Cheats and Codes. They have many interesting passwords I 
    didn't include in this FAQ.
    Legal mumb-jumbo:
    All original material in this FAQ is copyrighted to me, Korasoff. The name 
    Rock N' Roll Racing and the names of games, characters, vehicles, locations, 
    etc... I used are copyrighted to Silicon and Synapse/Blizzard Entertainment. 
    This FAQ can be distributed freely and in its entirety without my expressed 
    consent but only for personal, non-profit purposes. All other distributions 
    are prohibited.

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