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    FAQ/Walkthrough by Robvalue

    Version: 4.13 | Updated: 01/14/14 | Search Guide | Bookmark Guide

    --------------------Might and Magic: Duel of Champions-------------------------
    ---------------Game overview, guide for beginners and strategy tips------------
    Please note: As I stopped playing Duel of Champions a while ago, this guide
    does not cover expansions released after Herald of the Void. Apologies for this
    but I'm unlikely to return to the game. I'm still happy to answer
    emails if I can help, but can't offer much advice about the newest cards and
    features. A big thank you to everyone who has sent positive feedback to me!
    Further note: As this guide is now out of date (although a lot of the
    principles it mentions should still be helpful) I should point out that
    deck building has changed so that you can now include cards in more than one
    decklist. Also there are different formats. "Standard" will be the regular
    format, and you can only use the cards from the most recent sets in
    your decks for this. Cards from sets not available in the shop anymore that
    haven't been "reprinted" in newer sets won't be allowed in standard, although
    you can still use them in the other format, called "open". 
    Bear this in mind when looking at my suggested cards, as you can still get out
    of print cards from the altar of wishes but then won't be able to use them in
    standard decklists. To change between formats in your deck builder, click on
    the deck chooser tab at the bottom left of the screen (above the cogs icon).
    This brings up three tabs; the third of which is called Format Validation.
    Click on this, then choose Open or Standard. Your cards will then be filtered
    By Robert Watts (robvalue). Contact me: robvalue(at)yahoo.com 
    Replace (at) with @ in the above! (Putting my email address in full has led to
    spam barrages in the past due to bots reading random webpages or something.)
    Feel free to send any feedback or corrections, no matter how small. (But please
    be specific!)
    All advice given about card choices and strategy are based on my own opinion
    after a large amount of time playing this game. Your opinion may differ, and
    that is fine! This is meant as a guide only.
    If you happen to play me and wonder why I'm not following my own advice, I may
    be either trying something weird out, or more likely having a bad day and not
    thinking straight!
    ----------------------------Using the guide------------------------------------
    This is a very long guide, so I recommend reading it a section
    at a time. To jump to a section in this guide, look at the reference number 
    beside the part you want to go to (for example #1.62). Press Ctrl+F to bring up
    the find function, and type in this reference. Now press the "next" button
    twice to get to the section. When I refer to a section during the guide, I
    miss out the # sign, so add this at the front to do a search. If you are cross
    referencing several sections, I recommend opening the guide in multiple
    I will use the abbrevation DoC for Duel of Champions. If you come across a term
    I use that you aren't familiar with, please check section 8.02 for jargon. If
    you are still unsure what I'm talking about, please email me so I can explain
    what it means and add it to the jargon section to avoid future 
    misunderstandings. If you have read the guide before, check out 8.05 for the
    version history, to see what is new.
    ---------------------------Table of contents-----------------------------------
    #1.00 Introduction
    	#1.01 Overview of DoC
    	#1.02 What is DoC?
    	#1.03 Is it a tradable card game?
    	#1.04 is it really free to play?
    	#1.05 Is it any good?
    	#1.06 How do I get the game and make an account?
    	#1.07 Picking a faction
    #2.00 The tutorial levels
    	#2.01 Boot Camp
    	#2.02 Orc Invasion
    	#2.03 Wolf Soldiers
    	#2.04 Spending your winnings
    #3.00 Getting around the menus
    	#3.01 The main menu
    	#3.02 News, notifications, friends and chatting
    	#3.03 The main menu buttons
    	#3.04 Profile / achievements tab
    	#3.05 Shop tab
    		#3.05A Featured
    		#3.05B Consumables
    		#3.05C Packs, and which to buy
    		#3.05D Decks
    		#3.05E Redeem code, free gifts
    	#3.06 Cards and Decks tab
    		#3.06A Viewing your cards and decks
    		#3.06B Opening packs
    		#3.06C Editing your decks
    		#3.06D Deleting decks
    		#3.06E Creating new decks
    		#3.06F Spreadsheet to track your collection
    	#3.07 Infernal Pit tab
    	#3.08 Leaderboards tab
    	#3.09 Daily rewards
    #4.00 Improving your starter deck
    	#4.01 Deck building guidelines
    	#4.02 Neutral cards
    	#4.03 Inferno faction
    	#4.04 Necropolis faction
    	#4.05 Haven faction
    	#4.06 Water spells
    	#4.07 Earth spells
    	#4.08 Primal spells
    	#4.09 Fire spells
    	#4.10 Air spells
    	#4.11 Light spells
    	#4.12 Dark spells
    	#4.13 Events
    	#4.14 What to buy from the shop
    #5.00 Playing online and ELO ratings
    	#5.01 Finding an online opponent
    	#5.02 The reward system and using boosts
    	#5.03 Jackpot tournaments
    	#5.04 Swiss tournaments
    	#5.05 Practising against friends
    	#5.06 Procedure for players being abusive
    #6.00 Improving your playing skills
    	#6.01 Rules and terminology
    	#6.02 Attacking
    	#6.03 Life totals, blocking and races to win
    	#6.04 Important cards to remember, formations
    	#6.05 Order of actions in a turn
    	#6.06 When to take a mulligan
    	#6.07 Positioning flyers
    	#6.08 Bluffing
    	#6.09 Unusual plays
    	#6.10 Events
    #7.00 More on deck building
    	#7.01 General considerations
    		#7.01A What is my overall strategy?
    		#7.01B What Hero is right for my strategy?
    		#7.01C How do I deal with my opponent's cards?
    		#7.01D What maxout is appropriate for my strategy?
    	#7.02 Stronghold
    	#7.03 Sanctuary
    	#7.04 Further spells and starter faction cards
    		#7.04A Inferno faction
    		#7.04B Necropolis faction
    		#7.04C Haven faction
    		#7.04D Nuetral faction
    		#7.04E Water spells
    		#7.04F Earth spells
    		#7.04G Primal spells
    		#7.04H Fire spells
    		#7.04I Air spells
    		#7.04J Light spells
    		#7.04K Dark spells
    		#7.04L Events
    #8.00 Extras
    	#8.01 Known bugs
    	#8.02 Game and guide jargon
    	#8.03 Chatting to other players on the forum
    	#8.04 Achievement guide
    	#8.05 Version history and credits
    #1.00 Introduction
    This is a guide for the game Might and Magic: Duel of Champions, which is
    available on various formats. It is written from the point of view of the PC
    version, which is the one I have, but should be equally valid for all versions.
    It is aimed mainly at new players, explaining what the game is about and
    whether it is right for you. It shows you how to get started, explains the
    interface, and shows you how to build a good deck. It also contains
    strategy tips which may be useful not just to beginners but for current 
    players who may find something they haven't thought about before! If you are
    already playing DoC and know all the basics, you may want to skip to the
    strategy section right away (6.00 onwards).
    I won't go through the very basics of the rules of the game- this guide is long
    enough! I would be mainly duplicating the help file which is already in the
    game, and the tutorial does a good job of teaching you how to play. To view
    the help file, get to the main menu and click the question mark in the bottom
    left corner. I recommend reading this, whether or not you already have. It
    will mean a lot more to you once you've started playing.
    #1.01 Overview of DoC
    These sections are for potential new players, giving you an idea of what this
    game is like and if it's a game you'd want to play. It hopefully addresses
    some of the most common questions about it, and then shows you how to get
    the game and start it all up.
    #1.02 What is DoC?
    DoC is a digital collectable card game. It bears some similarity to Magic:
    The Gathering, although it plays quite differently. Perhaps the most striking
    changes are the absence of any "land" cards to produce "mana", and the fact
    that you cannot do anything during your opponent's turn. You choose a Hero
    card, and this represents the leader of your army. Each Hero has various
    types of cards that they can use, from which you build up a deck. You then use
    this deck to battle another Hero, either against the AI or another player
    online. You use creatures to attack the opponent, and you win by reducing their
    life to zero. You use other cards to assist your creatures, kill the opponent's
    creatures, draw cards, and do various other things.
    You get given a free starter deck, of which you have a choice of 3. You then
    earn in-game currency just by playing, which you can use to buy booster packs
    to get more cards for your deck.
    You can see a list of all the cards in the game here: (spoilers!)
    #1.03 Is it a tradable card game?
    Games like Magic are called trading card games because you can trade cards you
    don't want for ones which will improve your deck. Currently there is no way
    of trading cards with other players. The reason for this, I believe, is due
    to the possibility of creating endless free accounts and giving all the cards
    from each account to one of these accounts. This would allow you to get cards
    at a much faster and unfair rate. It is possible trading may be introduced
    in the future, but it is not certain. There is a way of getting specific cards
    you want, called the Infernal Pit, which you can read about later in the 
    guide (see section 3.07).
    #1.04 is it really free to play?
    Like me, you probably always think there is a catch when you see the word
    "free". But it is true; it's perfectly possible to play this game for free.
    I haven't spent anything on it, and I have managed to get a big collection
    of cards and created competitive decks. You always have the option of paying
    money to get more in-game currency, which is then used to buy more boosters.
    So by paying you are getting more cards quickly, but it is entirely possible
    to play the game, enjoy it, and be able to win without spending anything at
    all. It never asks for any payment details when you install or sign up. This
    will only happen if you make the decision to pay. I would advise against 
    spending anything, at least intially, for a number of reasons:
    (a) You may find you don't like the game after a while (unlikely though!)
    (b) It removes some of the satisfaction of earning the cards through play
    (c) You may win too many games too quickly and get to a high rank, which
        has its disadvantages, causing you to face experienced opponents
    It does take a lot of time investment to get a big collection without paying
    any money, but you will quickly get an idea by playing the game whether this
    is for you. You will always have the option of putting money into it at any
    point or continuing to pay for free as I have.
    I realized that from a financial standpoint free players are still valuable
    to the game company, as they provide opponents for those who are paying!
    Without someone to play the game would crumble.
    Also, the developers are pretty generous with free stuff. Check out the codes
    in section 3.05E for a nice boost.
    #1.05 Is it any good?
    Yes! I love this game. It is relatively easy to learn, but extremely hard to
    master. It has a full deck editor, from which you can experiment and build
    whatever you want (subject to the restrictions of your Hero.) The game design
    is really good, and it plays very well. I've had relatively few problems with
    disconnects or game glitches etc. The coding seems solid, and the number
    of real bugs in the game is pretty low. I have found just 3 serious card coding
    bugs, which I have reported and I am quite confident will be fixed soon.
    Other than this I've only found a couple of text errors, which I also reported
    but which don't impact gameplay, and a few very minor graphical glitches.
    On the whole it is extremely fun (not to mention addictive) and a great
    way to spend your time, involving a lot of strategy and decision making. I
    have found the community on the forum, and most online players, to be
    #1.06 How do I get the game and make an account?
    Follow this link (cut and paste into your browser):
    You have some useful links at the bottom of this page: How to play,
    a link to the forum, and a button for support. 
    When you are ready, click on "Download and start playing".
    Now on the right hand side of the screen, log in with your U-play account
    if you have one already. If not, fill in the form on the right, tick the box
    for "I accept the terms of service" and then click "Play for free". 
    Don't worry, it won't ask you for any credit card details
    before you start playing. This only happens if you later decide to spend money,
    which you are never obligated to do. 
    If it tells you any of the fields are invalid, go back and sort them out.
    If it says invalid U-play name, it's probably already taken so pick another
    one. Once you've made an account, it will say "Success!" and finally give 
    you a "Download" button. Click this to get the program.
    Run the setup.exe file that you download, clicking OK/accept at all the 
    prompts. You don't need to do anything unusual. Then, finally, run the game.
    (It should put a shortcut on your desktop.) It brings up a news screen with a
    link to the forums (bottom left) and support (?, top left). When you launch for
    the first time, it will take a while for the files to update. Allow the
    progress bar at the bottom to reach 100%. This will not happen every time,
    just if new patches or content are released. Have a look at the top right of
    the window. If it says, "Servers online" then the game is ready to play.
    If it says anything else like, "Servers offline for maintenance" then you
    won't be able to play. Try again in a few hours!
    Now click on "Play" (bottom right.) Enter the U-play name you chose
    and your password, then click "Login". You should be ready to go! Now see
    the next section for what to do afterwards.
    #1.07 Picking a faction
    When you play an account for the first time and have logged in (see section 
    1.06 if you haven't done this already) you will be asked to choose a faction.
    For each account, you get to make this choice just once and cannot change it
    afterwards. But don't worry, this only affects the free cards you are initially
    given. Whatever you choose, you will eventually be able to play any of the
    factions, including the ones you didn't choose. But it will mean you are
    probably stuck with the faction you choose for a while, until you build up
    enough cards to try out other factions.
    I'll go into much more detail about these later, but here are your three
    choices. None of them are "wrong"!
    INFERNO: The easiest deck to play initially, this is my recommended choice.
    It uses fire spells to burn away enemy creatures, has ways to directly damage
    your opponent, and has efficient, hard-hitting creatures.
    NECROPOLIS: Probably slightly harder to play initially. It focuses on death
    and decay, it causes the enemy creatures to be crippled or die from poison,
    and is good at mass destruction. Also some of its creatures can heal 
    themselves by attacking.
    HAVEN: I would say this is the hardest faction to play well at first, and
    probably the weakest starting deck. It uses a mixture of defensive creatures
    to keep the enemy at bay, and powerful spells to wipe out creatures. It
    is capable of healing its Hero- although this isn't very important! It
    has lots of ways of generating extra resources quickly.
    There are two other factions, Stronghold and Sanctuary, which are not 
    available to choose initially. Don't worry about these for the moment, you 
    will be able to use them later when you have more cards. Sanctuary is only
    available in the "Void Rising" and "Herald of the Void" expansions.
    If you find you dislike your choice of faction, the only current way to 
    change it is to make another U-play account and start again. This is a valid
    option, and if you're going to do it, do it as soon as possible to avoid
    investing time into an account you are going to abandon. Another choice is to
    make three accounts, one for each of the three factions, and try them all out.
    Then stick with the one you like the most.
    Note that there is no way of moving cards from one account to the other, so
    apart from casual play just using the starter decks (which is fine with your
    friends) stick with one account once you've decided on a faction. Again, you
    are not limited to that faction forever, only until you have enough cards to
    build other faction decks.
    #2.00 The tutorial levels
    Once you have picked your faction, you will be presented with the "daily 
    rewards" screen. See section 3.09 for more information.
    Then you will be taken to the campaign levels. Although it is possible to skip 
    these and go straight into fighting people online, I would highly recommend you
    play through the tutorial first. You learn a lot about the game, and you earn a
    big amount of currency which you can then use to improve your deck. If you go
    straight in to fighting online with your starter deck, you are likely to get 
    crushed by anyone who has tuned their deck somewhat.
    If at any point you are really struggling in the campaign, you can either:
    (a) Read the strategy sections of this guide to see if you can improve your 
    playing skills (section 6.00 onwards.)
    (b) Go to the shop and buy Reinforcement Packs with gold if you can afford
    them, and use the cards to improve your deck (see sections 3.01, 3.05, 3.06
    and 4.00 to 4.13). Also get your free gifts, giving you some packs for
    nothing! See section 3.05E.
    (c) Send me an email with your specific problems and I'll try to help. You can
    find my email address at the top of the guide. Or try asking for help on the 
    (d) Forget about the campaign for now, spend your riches, play some games 
    online for a while and come back later with a stronger deck. Don't let the
    final few irritating campaign levels put you off the game! They do not 
    represent a normal balanced duel.
    #2.01 Boot Camp
    You get a bunch of story during the training. It's pretty tedious but listen
    to it if you want. Keep clicking on the blue arrow to move forward until
    things continue. Once the duels start though, don't skip anything without
    reading it as it's useful rules information. At the end of each duel there is
    some congratulating/moaning; you can safely skip that too.
    To begin, click on Boot Camp, then Start Mission. At any point in the campaign,
    use the blue back arrow at the top left to move out of missions, and 
    eventually to the main menu. To get back to the tutorial from the main menu,
    click Play and then select Boot Camp/Campaign on the right hand side.
    For this part, the deck you have chosen makes no difference. You are given
    set cards in order to learn the mechanics. You should find these levels very
    easy. They are just there to help you. It starts off with a smaller playing
    field before building up to the full rules. You must complete each mission
    before the next unlocks. In case you need some help:
    DENSTADT BARRACKS- Just follow the instructions, then afterwards attack with
    the Lesser Air Elemental to win.
    DENSTADT TRAINING GROUNDS- Follow the instructions, then attack the Ghoul with
    your Griffin. Raise your Might to 3, then cast a Radiant Glory anywhere except
    opposite the other Ghoul. End your turn, and next turn attack for the kill
    with whatever is unopposed.
    BORDERKEEP- Follow the instructions, then raise your might to 3 and end the
    turn. Next turn attack and kill both his creatures, then cast a Radiant Glory
    so it is unopposed if possible. Just keep attacking and casting more Glories if
    needed until you win. [By unopposed, I mean in a row containing no enemy
    WHISPERING FOREST NORTH- Follow the instructions, raise your might to 2, cast
    two Griffins unopposed and end your turn. Next turn attack and kill anything
    in front of your Griffins, then attack the opponent when you can. Deploy two
    more Griffins, raise your magic to 3 ready for Lightning Bolt next turn, and
    end your turn. Next turn, if needed raise your magic to 4 so you can cast
    Lightning Bolt to remove a blocker. Attack for the kill.
    DENSTADT WEST- Follow the instructions, then attack the Demented with your
    Archer. End your turn. Next turn, attack and kill whatever is in front of your
    Archer, raise your might to 2 and cast a Griffin in front of your Archer. Cast
    the Crossbowman unopposed, and end your turn. [This isn't really necessary but
    is good practice anyhow.] Next turn, kill whatever is in front of the Archer,
    then raise your magic to 3. Cast Bless on the Griffin and attack for the kill.
    ROAD TO FLAMMSCHREIN- Now you finally get your own deck, the faction that you
    chose. Follow the instructions, then... just try and win the duel. Raise your
    might to 2 and cast your best creature that you can. End your turn, and next
    turn raise your might to 3 and again cast your best creature, unopposed. Attack
    blockers/the opponent with your other creature. Repeat this next turn with 4
    might, and then after that start raising your magic skill and using spells as
    well to clear the way. This is a very rough guide to the general strategy of
    a duel! For this stage don't oppose the enemy creatures unless your blocker has
    at least 3 more health than the attack value of the enemy, so it can't get
    finished off by a Fire Bolt. Play recklessly, as you will get his life down 
    from 10 way before he gets yours down from 20. Keep on attacking, casting 
    creatures and killing his stuff until you win. If it goes wrong, just keep 
    trying. I have made video guides to beating this stage with any of the three
    starter decks. Just follow my moves exactly and you will win! Watch them
    full-screen to see the cards better.
    Necropolis starter deck:
    Inferno starter deck:
    Haven starter deck:
    Now a prompt will come up asking you to test your skills in a multiplayer duel.
    You need to play a couple of online games at some point before you can finish
    the campaign, so it's up to you if you want to play them now. If you accept,
    press Fight at the bottom right hand corner of the screen, and wait for an
    opponent. After two duels, win or lose, you should have the XP you will need.
    #2.02 Orc Invasion
    From the Boot Camp screen, click on Orc Invasion and Start Mission. For these
    four levels, you use your chosen deck just like in the last level of Boot Camp.
    Follow the same guidelines, summon as many creatures as you can and
    study the situation to see what best moves you can make. Once your skills
    are high enough, start using your Hero ability to draw extra cards. Again if
    you are struggling, consider buying Reinforcement Packs or reading the strategy
    section of this guide.
    VRADEK'S CROSSING- A straight duel, except your opponent has 10 life. Summon
    creatures unopposed where possible, and keep up the pressure until you kill
    SERPENTINE RIVER- Crag Hack is cheating by having two crummy Pao Hunter units
    already in play. You want to kill these ASAP, either with spells or a creature.
    Be careful because he can play another creature in front of his Hunter to
    defend it from melee/flyer creatures of yours. So if you're going to put one
    in front of a Hunter, make it a fairly large creature if possible. This can get
    tough, but with a reasonable deal and solid play you should be able to win.
    He doesn't seem to use spells to kill any of your creatures so pile them on.
    Give him a kick in the face from me for cheating.
    TWILIGHT FALLS- He comes out quite slowly in this duel, so get as many
    creature down as quickly as possible and keep the pressure on. Build up to
    big creatures, and keep attacking. He uses several spells to mess with you and
    your creatures, but given a decent draw you should be able to put too many 
    threats down for him to deal with. If he puts Wind Shield on a creature to stop
    you killing it with shooters, either take it out with spells or just move your
    creatures to another row and ignore it.
    DARKWOOD FOREST- This is a straight duel against a Haven faction deck. Continue
    with what's been working for you, and keep the pressure on him until
    he crumbles. Watch out for annoying melee guard creatures that reduce your
    attack damage from melee creatures; take them out with flyers, shooters or
    spells instead. And avoid putting two units in the same row, both
    because of charge creatures and his Sunburst spells. Try to kill him as quickly
    as possible, as he will build up to putting big units out. If you haven't got
    a good hold on the game by that point, you're probably in trouble. If you lose
    just try again and hope for a better deal. This also seems to be the opponent
    you face when you have a practice duel against the AI.
    #2.03 Wolf Soldiers
    As I mentioned at the end of section 2.01, this third part of the campaign will
    not unlock until you get to level 3. And completing parts 1 & 2 will get you
    almost to level 3, but not quite. So if you haven't already reached level 3
    by this stage, you need to go and play a couple of games online. It doesn't
    matter if you win or lose, as long as neither of you quits right away which
    results in no XP being awarded. You'll still get the XP you need to level up
    whoever wins, and once you get to level 3 it unlocks this  part of the
    campaign. Keep clicking the blue arrow in the top left to return
    to the main menu, click the left hand tab (Duels) then click "Fight" in the
    bottom right hand corner. Once you finish the games, return to the campaign
    screen (right most tab) and start these levels. I really recommend finishing
    all these, even though some of them can be quite tough. The rewards you get
    are well worth it.
    FLAMMSCHREIN- You start with a free unit here, and the opponent has 18 life.
    But he has annoying creatures which gain life when they attack, making them 
    hard to kill. If you can't easily kill them outright, just ignore them and 
    move your creatures to open rows. You need a reasonably good deal to win here,
    either with spells for dealing with his creatures or just good quality
    creatures of your own to out-race his life gainers. Keep trying, or if you get
    desperate buy some Reinforcement Packs to improve your creature base.
    WHISPERING FOREST- Fleshbane fills the screen with incorporeal creatures, which
    take only half damage from non-magic creatures. He doesn't do much else, so all
    that really matters is how many magic creatures you draw. If you don't draw
    many, you will probably lose. Especially as they get an extra health from the
    Hero's ability. Either keep trying until you get enough magic creatures in 
    your draw, or buy some Reinforcement Packs and load your deck
    with as many magic creatures as possible for this duel. (To tell if your
    creature is magic or not, right click on it to zoom in on it, and read the line
    just below the picture. It will say creature - melee/flyer/shooter if it is not
    magic, or creature - magic melee/flyer/shooter if it is magic.) He also uses
    a lot of Wretched Ghouls, which have 2 power for 1 resource. Block these with
    units with more than 2 life to keep them at bay. Block the incorporeal creature
    with your magic creatures. You have to survive the onslaught of his creatures
    to be able to win, then things will open up for you to launch your
    offensive. Use your spells to kill the incorporeal creatures as they are harder
    to take out in combat. Any mass damage spells will be really helpful, such
    as Insect Swarm, Earthquake or Word of Light.
    ALTAR OF THE SPIDER GODDESS- Nergal starts with a 2/0/4 shooter in play, which
    is annoying. Ignore it at first, then once you draw a creature big enough to
    kill it by trading blows, play it in front of it. Watch out for him playing
    another creature in front of it to defend it though. This can be a tricky
    encounter, so there is no shame in buying some Reinforcement packs to improve
    your deck. You need a pretty good deal with a starter deck to win this. If you
    use Necropolis, Mass Grave can remove his creature on turn 1 for you
    evening things out. With Inferno, if you get some impact creatures out like
    Juggernaut and a good deal, you may be able to totally ignore his creature
    and beat him down to zero before he does it to you.
    DENSTADT- In this final encounter, the opponent starts off with three units in
    play! This makes things very tricky. You want to try and kill them all,
    obviously, ASAP. Chase the Maulers around with your creatures until they have
    nowhere to hide, by putting a creature on each row. Use any spells you have to
    kill their guys and level the playing field. If you manage this, you should be
    OK. I find he often doesn't even move his guys out the way when you threaten
    them with a unit, letting you walk up and kill them next turn. With a decent
    deal, and if you've got your play skills together, you should win.
    Congratulations, you've finished the campaign! Yes, that's all there is, unless
    they add something more in the future. Now see the next section about spending
    what you've earned.
    #2.04 Spending your winnings
    Once you've finished all 3 parts of the campaign, you should have around 1000
    seals and over 60,000 gold (minus any you already spent on boosters). If you
    are playing for free and don't intend to put any more money in at this stage,
    this is what I recommend doing: click on the Shop icon at the top of the 
    screen, it looks like a stall. Click on "Packs". Scroll down to find "The Box"
    and click "Instant Buy". Now scroll down to the bottom, and buy as many
    "Reinforcement Packs" as you can with your remaining gold. This will give you
    the best chance to get as many good cards as possible to help improve your
    deck. Your gold is in yellow text, your seals in blue. They are shown under
    your experience bar at the top-left of the main menu.
    The next section shows you how to how to get around the menus and explore
    all the screens the game has. If you just want to get on with building a good
    deck and then playing some games, jump ahead to section 3.06, then onto
    section 4.00.
    #3.00 Getting around the menus
    Once you have finished the tutorial, this section will guide you around the
    menu screens, showing you all the screens that are available.  
    #3.01 The main menu
    After finishing the tutorial, this is the screen you will be dealing with most.
    Note that this game times out relatively quickly, if you leave it unattended 
    it will log you out for safety (to stop some irksome member of your family
    messing with your cards.) You can just log in again- this is no problem. If
    you are doing the tutorial levels and want to go to the main menu, press
    "go back" in the top left corner. At the bottom right of the screen, a message
    comes up when you move the mouse over many of the icons on the main menu
    telling you what they do.
    There is a question mark at the bottom left of the main menu. This is 
    a very useful introduction to the game, which teaches you the basics of the
    rules and has a handy glossary. It is probably worth skimming
    over this before you start playing, but the tutorial will cover most of this
    anyhow so don't get dismayed if it seems too much to take in at first. The game
    isn't that complex and you'll get the hang of it in no time. I recommend coming
    back and reading this help file again at least once. The "card types" section
    will mean a lot more to you then especially. Once you bring it up, left click
    on one of the example cards to see a breakdown of the important information
    on each type of card.
    #3.02 News, notifications, friends and chatting
    The first thing you will see is the "News" section. It presents some items of
    interest; keep an eye on this for new things. You can find out more about them
    on the forums or in this guide. 
    At the bottom left of the screen, there is a scroll icon, to the right of the
    question mark. This is your notifications. Click on this to see any 
    messages you have. This will be things like letting you know you've completed
    achievements or the results of tournaments you've entered. Keep an eye on this
    from time to time for new information. A number appears beside the scroll to
    tell you how many new notifications you have. With this and all the other 
    windows you bring up from the bottom of the screen, you can click on the "-"
    at the top right of the window to minimize it. 
    To the right of the notifications button is the friends button, click on the
    two heads icon. This brings up your friends list, which starts out empty.
    If you know another player's U-play name and want to send them a friend
    request, type it in at the bottom where it says "Add friends" and then press
    the arrow to the right. It will send a request if the name is valid. If they 
    turn out to be a jerk, click on their name in your friends list then click
    on the red icon to the left to remove them from your list.
    You will see a list of all your friends, first those that are online and then
    those that are offline below that. If the circle to the left of their name is
    green, it means they are online. You can start chatting to a friend by 
    clicking on their name, then on the speech bubble to the right. Or you can 
    challenge a friend to a practice duel by clicking the crossed swords instead.
    You can spy on your friends to see what they are up to. It will say under their
    name what they are currently doing, such as playing a game or looking at menus.
    You can also see their ELO rating and their level.
    At the top of this window there are two other tabs, Requests and Challenges.
    If there is a number beside either of these, it means you have new things to
    look at. After clicking on Requests, click on a name and then select either
    the blue icon to accept the request, or the red one to deny. There's an 
    achievement for having 50 friends!
    If a friend has sent you a challenge request, click on Challenges and then
    accept or deny the challenge just like with friend requests. If you accept,
    you will be taken straight to the practice duel screen where you can select
    your deck and then start playing.
    To the right of the friends button is the chat button, a speech bubble icon.
    Here you can find all the chat windows that you currently have open. Choose
    from the list on the left of the window to pick who you want to talk to. You 
    can close any of them that you have finished with by pressing the red X to the
    left of the window. During a duel you can open a chat window with your opponent
    by pressing the "return" key. There is a red mute button to the left of
    the window if you don't want to hear them talking on their mike. The window 
    remains open after you have finished the duel, in case you want to keep 
    chatting. If you don't, you can close the window. There is a limit to how many
    chat windows you can have open at once (around 30). If you can't have any more
    open, you won't be able to chat to your opponent during a duel.
    Notice that the notifications, friends and chat buttons remain whatever screen
    you go to.
    #3.03 The main menu buttons
    There are several things you can do from the main menu. See the following
    relevant sections for more information about the screens they take you to. They
    contain probably more information than you need intially, so you may want to 
    come back to them after getting some experience.
    At the top left of the screen you will see your banner, XP and progress to the
    next level, your current level, and your amount of gold, seals and tickets.
    Gold and seals are in-game currencies. Tickets are used to enter Swiss
    tournaments. Gold is yellow, seals blue, and tickets brown/grey.
    PLAY (Big red button at the top!): Click this to bring up the gaming menu,
    where you can do the tutorial, play against the AI, or fight others online.
    See section 5.00.
    MENU (Cogs icon, bottom left): Click on this to bring up "Quit game" (I'll
    let you work out what that does for yourself) and "Options". Feel free to
    fiddle with the sound and graphics tabs here if you want. More important is 
    the gameplay tab. Here (below language selection) you have three useful
    tick-boxes. The first two are intially turned off, and the third on. I would
    advise leaving them as they are for now, but come back to review them after
    you are comfortable with the game. 
    Some cards just require clicking on to play, and there is an automatic "Are
    you sure?" prompt each time you use one. This is handy initially, but becomes
    tiresome once you are competent. So come back and untick this box when
    you've had enough of that message. Similarly, the game will let you know if
    you are attempting to finish your turn without using a Hero ability.
    Once you don't need this prompt any more, come back and untick this too. 
    NEWS: (Scroll icon to the right of the PLAY button): Click here to return to
    the news page from any other page that has come up.
    PROFILE: (Red banner icon to the right of the news button): This has two
    tabs. It shows you some basic information such as progress towards the next
    level, the currencies you have earned, and lists the achievements you can get 
    in the game.
    SHOP: (Stall icon, to the right of the red banner): Click here to buy
    everything you need: boosters, decks, currency, special items, and to redeem
    promotional codes.
    CARDS AND DECKS: (White cards icon, to the right of the stall): This is where
    you can look at all the cards you have, and edit and create decks to play with.
    INFERNAL PIT: (Red cards icon, to the right of the white cards): This is not
    initially available, it unlocks at level 5. This is a place you can "burn" your
    unwanted cards to get more gold. Be very wary about using this! I recommend
    staying firmly away from it for a long, long time, until you've started to
    build a big collection and have a feel for the value of the cards. If you burn
    a card you can't get it back, and the gold rewards are pretty tiny. There is
    however the chance of getting a free card when you burn them.
    LEADERBOARDS: (Feathers icon, top right of the screen): This is where you can
    see your standing in the world based on your ELO rating and success in 
    #3.04 Profile / achievements tab
    After clicking on this icon from the main menu (red banner icon) you will be
    presented with a lot of information. 
    Profile tab:
    ---BANNER: On the left is the flag you will display during the game. It makes
    no difference at all to gameplay and is only for show. You can use the blue
    left/right arrows to change it any time you want. Some are locked and become
    available after completing certain achievements. 
    ---NAME: Your name, that being your U-play name. You didn't forget what it
    was already did you? It's to the right of the banner.
    ---EXPERIENCE BAR: This shows your XP points, and how many you need to get to
    the next level. I'll talk more about what this all means later. Your level
    is shown at the right of the bar, you start out at level 1 but you should get
    to level 3 after finishing the campaign. Basically gaining levels earns
    you more gold and seals (the in-game currencies) to buy more cards with. It
    also makes you look good.
    ---SKILL RATING (ELO): Under the experience bar is your skill rating, given as
    a number. It starts off right at the bottom- possibly zero I think! If you
    win games this goes up, if you lose it goes down. Whatever you do, don't worry
    about your ELO rating to begin with. it really doesn't matter until you're at
    the point where you want to try being hardcore and shoot for the stars. 
    Until then, just disregard it, but feel happy if it does happen to go up. You
    don't lose anything from your ELO rating going down, it will go up again.
    Once it reaches 1000, you become "locked in" to playing other people who are
    rated 1000 or more. This also happens at 1500 (you really don't need to worry
    about that just yet though, I'm not threatening 1500 yet!). Some people get to
    1000 too quickly, mainly I think by buying loads of cards by putting money
    into the game, then find themselves brutalized by more experienced players.
    Don't be in a rush to try and get to 1000. It cannot go below zero.
    ---COLLECTION: Under the skill rating it shows you how many distinct cards 
    you have in your collection (that you have at least one of) out of the 
    maximum amount possible. Just for information as to your progress as a 
    ---CURRENCIES: To the right of your name is a currencies window. It shows
    you how much gold and seals you have, and tempts you to "Get more". This
    is what you click on if you do decide to put money into the game, which
    rewards you with more gold and seals instantly. You earn gold through playing
    anyway, even if you lose, and you get seals every time you level up. You
    also get bonuses after you have completed certain achievements. Seals
    are the more valuable of the two, each being worth about 100 gold. The more
    amazing things tend to be purchasable with seals only, the more mundane things
    with gold. It is possible to turn seals into gold, but I wouldn't recommend
    doing so, ever! The process is not reversible. Read about this in the Shop
    section of the guide, 3.05. The "Get more" button will send you to the shop.
    ---CURRENT MISSION: This shows your progress in the mission you are on during
    the campaign. The campaign is relatively short, so this will quickly just
    become 0% after you've finished it and stay that way.
    Achievements tab:
    ---ACHIEVEMENTS: To see this, click on the Achievements tab under the Play
    button. There is a large number of achievements here. You can browse through
    them all any time and it shows you how close you are to getting each one.
    It also tells you the rewards you get. You will complete many of these just by
    doing the tutorial levels, and will get more as you start to play online. Later
    you may come back to look here and decide to work towards specific goals. A lot
    really just need you to keep getting more cards, as you can't directly control
    what kind of cards you get (except in the Infernal Pit). Many others reward
    skillful play, to the point of magically adept play in some cases! Often the
    rewards are in the form of boosters, gold or seals. Occasionally the reward can
    be something more unique like a specific Hero card. These should all be pretty
    self-explanatory, but feel free to email me any questions you have about them.
    See section 8.04 for a guide to getting the achievements.
    #3.05 Shop tab
    There is a lot going on here, so don't spend any of your currency without 
    first reading the advice in section 2.04. You win a lot from the campaign, and
    you only get to spend it once!
    To get to the shop, click on the stall icon, to the top-right of the main
    menu. To the right of the screen there is your current gold and seals, the
    in-game currencies which you spend in the shop. If you want to spend real
    money to buy more currency (note that you never have to do this, it's entirely
    up to you) then click on the "Need more Wealth" button below. This allows 
    you to purchase gold and seals directly, and also to convert seals into
    gold. I advice against doing such a conversion, it is one way only and
    seals are rarer and can buy a bigger variety of things than gold.
    The shop is presented in 5 tabs, which I will detail below:
    #3.05A Featured
    This gives you a little more news about the current/upcoming
    sets, any special deals, or cards you can unlock.
    #3.05B Consumables
    There are currently three things you can buy from here, all
    costing you seals. Tournament tickets are the first one, the amount you
    already have is shown under your level at the top of the screen. You get
    given 5 for free when you make an account. You use these tickets to enter
    Swiss tournaments, at the cost of 1 per tournament. The next two, XP and gold
    boost are items you can buy which will increase how much XP/gold you get for 
    the next 5 duels, by 100% and 50% respectively. My advice is leave all these
    things alone to begin with; you have better things to spend your seals on.
    Come back to these later when you are more experienced. If you buy one of the
    boosts, it doesn't activate automatically: you need to set it off in the
    dueling menu (see section 5.02). These are called consumables because once used
    they disappear.
    #3.05C Packs
    This is where you will be spending most of your riches, if you are
    wise. There is a big variety on offer here. Click on the icon of any of them
    to be given details. The contents of all of these packs/boxes are randomly
    generated. You won't know what you're going to get until you've bought them
    and opened them. Note that the packs do not get added to your collection until
    you go to the cards and decks screen, and open them up. See section 3.06B.
    Here's my advice on what to go for, and what not to:
    The Box: You end up with enough seals from the campaign to buy this, and it's
    a good purchase in the future too. You get a lot of cards here, beefing out
    your starter deck and even putting you some way towards having enough cards
    to make other faction decks. No Heroes available here though, so you would need
    to get them elsewhere. But I highly recommend this to be your first purchase.
    Reinforcement Pack: The most cost efficient way to spend your gold. It focuses
    just on the original 4 factions, giving you more chance to get cards you need
    to help your starter deck. You always get 1 rare/epic and 3 uncommons. Once
    your collection is big, it's these 4 that you are really paying for, but
    it's still worth it. (Epic cards have an orange name and the rarest of the
    rare, rares have a blue name, uncommons green, and commons white.) If you are
    struggling with the campaign, spend whatever gold you have on these packs
    and use them to improve your deck (see sections 3.06 and 4.00 to 4.13).
    Heroic Pack: This is an upgrade of the Reinforcement Pack, although it gives
    you less commons. After playing a while this won't bother you though, and
    you are also guaranteed a Hero card. It will be random though! Chances are
    you won't already have it to begin with as there are many different Heroes
    you can get. These will help you start building new faction decks. You still
    get your rare/epic, and 2 uncommons instead of the usual 3.
    Heroic Box: This is a great purchase, giving you a bunch of Hero cards along
    with all the standard cards, but you won't be able to afford it right away.
    So if you want it fast, you have to either keep playing until you earn enough
    seals (through levelling up) to buy it, or put some real money in to get
    more seals. I wouldn't recommend this, I'd go for The Box to begin with. You
    can always buy this later once you're more settled and earning lots of seals.
    The Serious Box: Very expensive in seals, but you get a lot for it. To get this
    initially is realistically going to require putting real money into getting
    lots of seals. Later on, if you save up a huge number of seals, this is an
    efficient purchase. But no Heroes in this box!
    Void Rising Box: I recommend initially staying away from Void Rising
    completely. Not because it has bad cards, but because it is mainly focused
    on a new 5th faction, Sanctuary. To start with you'll be wanting to get cards
    for your starter faction, and you're even less likely than normal to find
    ones that you can use in here. But once you have a sound collection from the
    base set, this is the place to go to dip into Void Rising in an efficient way.
    Void Rising Pack: This can now be bought with gold, so if you have lots of
    base cards already you may want to give this expansion a go.
    Herald of the Void Box: This is the second expansion, offering more cards for
    each of the 5 factions. No new faction has been introduced. I would recommend
    dipping into this expansion before Void Rising, especially if you are
    less interested in Sanctuary. There is a new Hero for each of the 5 factions
    in this set.
    Emilio's Pack: This offers a mix of base cards, Void Rising and Herald of the
    Void cards. It is the only way to get Herald cards using gold.
    Small Pack: Just don't. It's really tempting at only 2000 gold, but the problem
    is that you are not guaranteed any uncommons or rares in your 2 cards, and 
    epics/Heroes do not appear at all. Put your gold into reinforcement packs
    instead- it will be better in the long term than wasting money on these. 
    Herald of the Void Pack: It is more efficient to save up your seals and buy
    a box than spend them on individual packs.
    Premium Packs: Alternate versions of packs. You are paying more than you
    normally would for the non-premium packs, and all you get is more of the 
    premium shiny cards. They hold no extra gameplay value, they just look a bit
    sparkly, but in fact they annoy me rather than look good. The only real reason
    to try and get premiums is to go for the achievements that involve them, but
    this really isn't worth the effort until you've done just about everything
    else you possibly could with this game. The rewards for the achievements are
    just not worth the extra costs.
    #3.05D Decks
    Here you can buy pre-made decks. Instead of being random like the packs
    section, these are all standardized decks and you know exactly what you are
    going to get. I wouldn't recommend spending anything on these to begin with
    as the amount of powerful cards you get for your money is inefficient.
    However, if you desperately want to start in a new faction, then you are
    guaranteed to get enough cards for a new deck you can play. These are all
    generally expensive (some very expensive) so think carefully before spending
    a huge chunk on these. Click on an icon to read the deck contents, and compare
    it to the card list below (spoilers!):
    The deck will appear in your Cards and Decks screen as a new seperate deck
    (see section 3.06A). If you don't want to play with the deck as it is and just
    want to add all the cards to your collection, delete this new decklist (see
    section 3.06D). Don't worry, you won't lose the cards, quite the opposite, they
    are released into your card pool for use in other decks. While they are still
    in this pre-made deck, you can't access them for use in other decks.
    #3.05E Redeem code, free gifts
    If you are lucky enough to find a promotional code, you enter it
    using this tab. If it is correct, you will be rewarded with a gift! Don't even
    bother trying to type in some random stuff, it's not going to work. However, 
    there are several well-known codes that do work. Copy these, one at a time,
    into the redeem code tab and you'll get rewards! Cutting and pasting works, and
    avoids accidental typos. For some reason you don't seem to be able to enter
    these codes on the iPad version. So just download the game onto a PC and log
    in there, and enter the codes. They will be then available when you log in
    again on the iPad. It's worth the trouble!
    5ORRY54TURD4Y			A Premium Reinforcement Pack
    TH4NK5FBF4N5			A Reinforcement Pack
    WE-ARE-NO-TROLLS		A Reinforcement Pack 
    You will then need to open your packs (see section 3.06B).
    I know some of these look like a joke, but trust me, they're valid at time of 
    writing. If you find any of these no longer work, please let me know. The 
    "Facebook Luv" code was given to fans because of 20,000 likes on their facebook
    page and they said maybe we get something at 30,000. Let's whore it up people!
    We got another one for 25,000 which I have added above.
    There were more codes, but they seem to have expired, among them:
    MMDOC-H4S-THE-B3ST-FANS		A Herald of the Void Pack
    Penny Arcade code generator			
    #3.06 Cards and decks tab
    This is where you can see all the cards you have, and edit your deck(s). To get
    to this screen, select the white cards icon near the top-right of the main
    #3.06A Viewing your cards and decks
    The first thing you will see upon entering this screen is a big window called
    "Collection". This contains all the cards that you have. There are two numbers
    under each card. The first number shows how many of that card you have
    available, which means they are not currently in a deck. The second number
    shows the total amount you have of that card, including those currently in a 
    You can filter the cards in your collection in various ways. By selecting any
    of the tabs just under the Collection title, you can look just at particular
    card types within you collection. Right click on any card to zoom in on it
    to be able to read it fully. (Right click again to zoom out.) To the right
    of the Collection window title, there is a + and a - icon, shown in magnifying
    glasses. Click these to zoom in or out of your collection. There are three
    levels of zoom, the middle one being the default. You can use the up and down
    arrows on the right of the window to scroll your cards if they can't all fit
    in the window at once.
    When you have zoomed in on a card, you can press and hold the middle mouse
    button to remove all text and see the art in all its glory.
    When you hover over any card, the right hand side of the screen will display
    the important features of that card to save you always having to zoom in. On
    non-Hero cards, it also displays flavour text here! This text does not even
    appear on the cards, so this is the only way to see it. It has no game meaning
    but adds some background to the game world.
    While not over a card, the right hand side of the screen shows the "Filters"
    window. Move to this section to narrow down the selection of cards you want
    to look at, within the category tab you have selected. The top part is the
    factions filter. This has 6 icons, the 5 factions plus the neutral cards 
    available to every faction. Just like with the main menu, a handy explanation
    appears in the bottom right of the screen as you hover the mouse over an icon
    here. From left to right they are Inferno (ring), Haven (plus), Stronghold
    (hand), nuetral (diamond), Necropolis (spider) and Sanctuary (corals). Those
    descriptions in brackets are what the icons look like to me- I'm sure you have
    your own, probably better descriptions! By default all these are lit up. Click
    on any to turn them off (and again to turn them on again). Then the cards 
    displayed in your collection window will only be of the lit up faction(s).
    The faction of your deck's Hero determines what faction creatures and fortunes
    you can use (plus neutral creatures and fortunes).
    Under this are the magic schools. Again they are all on by default, and can
    be toggled. From left to right (here we go again) are water (wave), earth
    (leaf), primal (infinity), fire (flame), air (cloud), light (explosion), and
    dark (half-moon). Note that the schools of magic are not directly linked to
    factions, it is the Hero that specifies which schools of magic can be used,
    regardless of what faction he is. However, I have noticed some combinations
    just don't exist (such as an Inferno Hero using water magic.) There are no
    neutral spells.
    Under this is the expansions filter. These are tickboxes, and there are three
    at time of writing. (A new set is due out soon!) They are all on by default and
    can be toggled to filter your cards. The first one (dragon) is the basic set,
    the cards bought from Reinforcement and Heroic Packs. The second icon (corals?)
    is Void Rising, the first expansion set which you get from Void Rising Packs.
    The third icon (keyring?) is the second expansion Herald of the Void.
    The fourth icon (jewel) is Rewards: very rare cards which are awarded to you
    usually through achievements (such as the Hero Kieran).
    Lastly is the miscellaneous filter, with 8 tickboxes you can toggle. By default
    the ones on the left are on and the ones on the right are off. The left hand
    ones filter cards by rarity, with Heroic (Hero cards) having its own category.
    The colour of the text for each corresponds to the colour of the title of cards
    of this rarity. On the right are three more filters. If "New" is ticked, only
    cards just obtained from opening packs etc. will be displayed, helping you
    to see if there is anything you might want to add to your deck(s). If you
    tick the "Unusable" box, then when you are editing your decks (see section
    3.06C) cards you cannot put into your deck are still shown, but are faded
    into red (such as creatures from a different faction to your Hero). Lastly
    "Premium" means that only the special sparkly cards that you have are shown
    if you tick this box. They have no extra usefulness as cards, but count towards
    some achievements and are worth double towards your % chance of getting the
    Infernal Deal card in the Infernal Pit (see section 3.07).
    At the bottom left of the Cards and Decks screen are the names of the decks you
    have. Initially you will have just one deck, which is automatically named after
    the faction you chose, such as "Inferno Deck". The names of decks are only for
    your reference; your opponents cannot see them at any point. If you have more
    than two decks, there isn't room for them to be displayed (weird huh?) so use
    the left and right arrows either side to scroll through them. Click on any
    of your decks to open its contents. 
    When you do this, the Collection window will get smaller, and there will now
    be a second, very similar window under it. The name of this is "Decks" and 
    it shows the contents of your deck. Use the tabs on this window just as with
    the collection window, in combination with the filters on the right hand 
    side of the screen. Use the up and down arrows as before to scroll through 
    the cards. To stop looking at your deck, select "Cancel" at the bottom of the
    screen. This exits without making any changes, so is useful if you
    accidentally moved some cards around, or started doing so and changed your
    #3.06B Opening packs
    You buy packs, and boxes of packs, in the Shop screen (see section 3.05). You
    are also awarded them from achievements. When you have bought or are given a
    pack, you have to open it before the contents are added to your collection. 
    This simulates the experience of opening a real booster. On your Cards and Deck
    screen, if you have any packs to open, in the bottom right of the screen it 
    will say "Packs N" where N is the number of packs you have. It won't let you
    know what packs these are exactly, so if you got several different sorts before
    opening them, they are just piled together. You open them one at a time, by 
    clicking on this Packs button. The screen then shows the pack being opened,
    and the contents revealed. Cards not already in your collection are given a
    yellow border to help them stand out. (This counts premium/non premium
    versions of cards as separate, so you may already have the card but not the
    premium/non premium version you are now getting). To continue, press "Update"
    in the bottom right hand corner. Now the number of packs you have will have
    reduced by 1, and you can repeat this process to open them all. Or leave them
    to open at a later date, although I don't know why you'd want to do that! Are
    you weird or something?
    When you are awarded a single specific card, from a promotional code or an
    achievement, it will be given to you in a pack. When you open it, it will just
    contain that pack. If you are wondering where your ****ing card is that you
    just earned, it is in a pack waiting for you to open!
    #3.06C Editing your decks
    To make changes to one of your decks, click on it at the bottom of the screen
    to open it just as before. If you want to change the name of the deck, click
    the "Rename" button below the window. The name has no meaning other than as a
    reference to you, and opponents never see it. (This doesn't mean I condone 
    rude names!) 
    If you want to make changes to the cards in your deck, you do so by using both
    the Collection and Decks window. Use the tabs on both windows to help you look
    through what you can put in and take out. Drag a card from the top window to
    the bottom to add it to your deck, or from the bottom window to the top to
    take it out of your deck. Alternatively, you can double-click a card on the PC
    version of the game to move it in or out of the deck.  
    Note that the top window now automatically filters out any cards which cannot 
    be used with the Hero in your deck. So everything you see in the top window is
    available for the deck you are working on.
    To help you keep track, there is a number on each tab in the Decks window
    showing you how many you have of each type. To make a valid deck, you must
    have exactly 1 Hero card, exactly 8 Event cards and 50-200 other cards in any
    combination of creature/spell/fortune cards. Usually you will have some of each
    of these three types, but you don't have to. You could use 50 creatures, or
    25 fortunes and 25 spells. I always advise sticking to the minimum of 50,
    because by adding more you are only diluting your deck and reducing the amount
    of times you will see your strongest cards. Therefore, I suggest each time you
    put a new card in, take one out. If you follow this advice, the number on the
    "All" tab at the top right of the window will always be 59. See section 4.00
    for advice on how to make a good deck. If you haven't yet acquired any new 
    cards, you won't be able to change your deck! Come back later when you have
    got some.
    If you want to change the Hero in the deck, first move your Hero from the
    Decks window back to the Collection window. Now all the other Heroes should
    become available from your collection; drag the new one down. This may mean
    some of your cards now become invalid in your deck because they don't work with
    the new Hero. They will be faded into a red colour. You need to remove them,
    and replace them with valid cards. If you keep the same faction hero this will
    only affect spells, if you are changing faction you may as well just delete the
    deck or make a new one, as most of the cards will become invalid.
    Note that each card in your collection can only be in one deck at a time. This
    is very annoying and I hope they change this soon. To use them in another deck,
    you must first remove them from the deck they are in.
    Once you have finished making changes, select either "Done" to save what you
    have changed, or "Clear" to cancel without accepting any changes. These buttons
    appear below the Decks window. If you select Done and your deck is invalid, a
    warning message will come up telling you why the deck is invalid. The deck is
    still saved in this invalid state, however it won't be possible to pick it for
    a duel. 
    #3.06D Deleting decks
    Because, as I mentioned in the previous section, each card you have can only
    be in one deck at once, at first it can be easiest to just remove all cards
    from your current deck and start a new one. To do this, click on your deck
    at the bottom left of the Cards and Decks screen, then press "Delete" at
    the bottom. Don't worry, you don't lose any cards by doing this! All you are
    doing is moving them from the decklist back to the main card pool so that they
    can be put into another deck. You can always make the deck up again exactly as
    it was at a later date.
    #3.06E Creating new decks
    See section 4.01 for tips on making decks.
    To start making a new deck, click on the "Click to create" button at the bottom
    of the screen with the book icon. You'll then get an empty Decks window below
    your Collection window. First of all, drag down the Hero you want to make the
    deck with, then the Collection will automatically be narrowed down to the cards
    that work with that Hero. Use the filters in the Collection window to help you
    pick out 8 event cards, then go through the creature/spell/fortune tabs,
    dragging down each card you want into the bottom window. Your deck will be
    valid once it reaches a total of 59 cards. You can go above this if you want
    but I don't recommend it. If you are wondering why you can't select certain
    cards, even though they work with your chosen Hero, it's probably because they
    are already in another deck you have. In this game a card can only be in one
    deck at once, so you have to either delete the other deck or remove the card(s)
    you want from it first (and then click Done to save changes from it). 
    Note that the faction of the Hero you choose (icon at the top-right of the 
    Hero card) dictates what creatures and fortunes you can use in the deck. They
    must be the same faction, or neutral (pale blue diamond sort of thing in the
    top right of the card). You can use whatever event cards you want with any
    Hero. But spell cards are a bit different. They vary depending on each
    individual Hero and aren't tied in to a particular faction. The icons on the
    right of the Hero card, under the faction icon, tell you what schools of Magic
    you can use for that Hero. It is normally 2 schools, but it can also be 3 or
    even just 1. The icon in the top right of a spell card must match one of the
    spell icons on the Hero card for you to be able to use it. See section 3.06A
    for how you can view what spells you have of each school using filters.
    Along the left hand side of the Hero card are its starting skill levels. The
    number inside the fist is might, the bottle is magic and the purple curtain
    is destiny. The absence of an icon indicates a starting skill of zero in that
    area (it can still be raised above zero as normal.) At the bottom left of the
    Hero card is its starting life, this is usually 20 but can be less. All Heroes
    have the basic 4 Hero abilities (raise might, raise magic, raise destiny, and
    spend 1 resource to draw a card). Some also have another ability under these,
    which can either be ongoing (applies all the time and doesn't need activating)
    or has a cost to activate. In the second case, activating the ability means you
    can't use any of the other basic 4 Hero abilities that turn.
    #3.06F Spreadsheet to track your collection
    Nightangelbeta posted a really good spreadsheet you can use to tally how many
    of each card you have and kindly gave me permission to post it here:
    You can download a copy to your computer using the File menu. It has tabs at
    the bottom of the screen to change betweem expansions. It's a great way to keep
    count of how many of each card you have, and helps you decide what packs to
    buy based on the holes in your collection. It's also a faster way to email 
    someone the details of your collection. If anyone wants to fill one in and
    email it to me, feel free, and I'd be happy to suggest possible decklists you
    could make!
    #3.07 Infernal Pit tab
    This screen is locked until you get to level 5. Its icon is three red cards,
    near the top-right of the main menu. This icon will be blanked out until level
    5. Click on the icon to visit the Infernal Pit.
    Be very careful about using this feature! It involves offering some of your
    cards as sacrifices, and this process is non-reversible. In return you get
    given gold, and the chance to win a specific card. The amount of gold you get
    is relatively small, making it only a minor source of income and I would say
    generally not worth the loss of the cards you burn in it unless you're totally
    sure you will never want them. I would advise staying away from this feature
    until you have quite a big collection, as you may deeply regret early visits
    to the Pit.
    You are presented with a screen similar to that of the Cards and Decks screen.
    All your cards will be in the top window, named "collection". You can click on
    any of the tabs under the title to just see certain types of cards from your
    collection. Unfortunately you cannot use the filters from the Card and Decks
    screen to narrow things down further.
    Below each card will be two numbers. The first number shows how many of that
    card you have available, in other words not currently in one of your decks.
    The second number shows the total amount of that card that you have, including
    ones already in decks. If all copies of a card are currently in decks, that
    card won't appear at all on this screen.
    To offer a card as a sacrifice, drag it into the bottom window, marked 
    "Infernal Pit". It will put in only one copy at a time, so if
    you want to offer multiples you must move the same card several times. You
    cannot offer cards that are in one of your decks. If you really want to do so
    you must remove them from the deck (see section 3.06C.) Moving a card like
    this will not cause it to be sacrificed yet, there are two more steps to take
    to give you the chance to change your mind! The amount of gold the Pit offers
    you if you decide to follow through with the sacrifice is shown on the right 
    of the screen. You can drag cards back from the bottom window to the top too
    to cancel them.
    At the bottom of the Infernal Pit window are three buttons. The first, which
    I recommend staying totally away from, will move all cards currently selected
    in the Collection window into the Infernal Pit window. The second button
    "Clear" will move all cards currently in the Infernal Pit window back into
    your collection. The third button, "Make the Sacrifice" is what you want when
    you have decided you really want to sacrifice the cards in the Infernal Pit
    If you do select Make the Sacrifice, it will then give you one more chance to
    change your mind. You'll get a warning message telling you that the sacrifice
    is permanent. They are not kidding! Think carefully before making your
    decision. If you select "decline" then the sacrifice is cancelled. If you
    pick "accept" then that's it, your cards are gone, and you get the gold added
    to your coffers.
    There is another feature to the Infernal Pit, and I consider it the most
    important. At the bottom right of the screen, there will be a card displayed.
    This "Infernal Card Deal" is a card that you could get as a bonus to your gold
    for your sacrifice. To the left of the card is a percentage, which starts at
    0%. As you put cards into the Infernal Pit window, this percentage will 
    increase. The amount it goes up by depends on the rarity of the card you are
    offering. Epics (red name) are worth the most, then Heroes and rares (blue
    text), then uncommons (green text) then commons (white text). Also if the card
    you are offering is premium (it looks all shiny and is kept in a different
    pile to other cards of the same name in your collection) it is worth twice the
    usual amount of percentage towards the Infernal Card Deal, although the same
    amount of gold. The rarer the card on offer, the less percentage each of your
    offerings will be worth. Currently Hero and epic cards do not appear in the 
    Pit, except at times specially announced on the forums and on Facebook.
    This is a feature to use when you have a pretty big collection, as the amount
    of cards you have to put in compared to what you win is about 20:1 in each
    rarity. If you do use it, I advise putting in just enough cards to bring the
    percentage up to 100. Then you are guaranteed to win the card. Anything less
    than this is a gamble, and if you're putting a lot of cards in you may not get
    another shot to get the card on offer for a long time. It may also ruin your
    chances of getting a future card.
    Once you make the sacrifice, you'll be told if you were successful or not in
    winning the Infernal Deal card. If you are, it will be added to your 
    collection. It will also disappear from the Infernal Pit window, and no card
    will be available any more. However, every 8 hours, whether you win the card
    or not, a new card becomes available in the Infernal Deal. So even if you plan
    to sacrifice cards to the Pit to get money, it is best to hold onto them until
    you can use them altogether to buy yourself a card you really want at the same
    time. You still get the same amount of gold you would get, plus this card for
    When deciding what to sacrifice, the safest thing is copies of cards 
    exceeding 4, or exceeding 1 in the case of Heroes and Unique cards. This is 
    because any deck you make cannot have more than 4 of any card, and not more
    than 1 of a Hero or unique card. It is possible to decide you are only ever
    going to play one faction, and that you're going to offer as a sacrifice any
    card that doesn't fit that faction. I would advise against this, as you will
    probably regret it in the long run. As you buy boosters you will inevitably
    get a large amount of cards for other factions, and eventually these will 
    piece themselves together into playable decks. The small amount of gold you
    get, even coupled with specific cards from the Infernal Deal, is not in my
    opinion worth giving up completely on all other factions. But that's up to you
    of course! Be aware that even for one faction, there are various Heroes, who 
    have access to different spell schools. So even if your starter Hero cannot
    use a particular spell, another Hero you may get from the same faction might
    be able to.
    #3.08 Leaderboards tab
    To get to the Leaderboards screen, click the Feathers icon at the top-right of
    the main menu screen. This has three tabs. "Skill" shows your position in 
    relation to other players based on your ELO rating. This is a number which
    starts at 0 when you begin playing, and goes up when you win. It goes down
    when you lose, but you can't go below 0. This is used to match opponents of
    similar skill when duelling online. Once at an ELO rating of 500, you cannot
    drop below 500 again unless you lose 10 duels in a row. Similarly at 1000.
    Don't get stressed out about your rating, as you get better cards and gain more
    experience with the game, you are bound to have more success. This is a deep
    game that cannot be mastered overnight. Both deckbuilding and play skills take
    a long time to fully learn.
    The next tab is "Jackpot Tournament." If a tournament is currently underway,
    this shows you standing within the tournament. See section 5.03. The rating 
    shown here is an ELO rating just within the tournament, where everyone begins
    again at 0.
    The last tab, "Swiss Tournament" shows your general performance in Swiss
    tournaments compared to other players. See section 5.04.
    #3.09 Daily rewards
    This is a new incentive that came along with the Herald of the Void expansion.
    When you log in for the first time each day, you will be presented with the
    "daily rewards" window. You are offered a prize, and you can either collect it
    right away (click on the left button) or stash it for later (click on the right
    button). If you only log in occasionally, it is better to collect your prize.
    If you stash it but then don't log in the next day, you will lose it. 
    If you log in every day, then you are better off stashing it. It will then
    be offered to you the next day, along with another prize. You can then either
    collect it or stash it again, and so on. You can continue to stash your prizes
    for a whole week, at which point you have to collect. It is well worth doing
    this as each day the quality of the prizes generally increases. As well as gold
    you can get tournament tickets, gold and XP boosts, and eventually some seals 
    if you wait the whole week. I believe  patience will pay off, stash your 
    rewards! If you just collect daily, all you will ever get is a small amount of
    It tells you as you go along the "value" of your prizes, measured in gold. This
    is telling you how much they are worth if they were translated into gold. It's
    meant as a guide so you can see how much you are getting if you stash or claim
    now. You don't get given the amount of gold in this "value". Some of your prize
    will be in gold, but some of it will be in other things such as tickets or
    #4.00 Improving your starter deck
    If you haven't already, make sure you get your free gifts! See section 3.05E.
    This section is aimed at improving the card quality in the starter deck you
    chose, so it covers the 3 starting factions, as well as neutral cards which can
    be put into any of the faction decks. Once you have completed the tutorial
    and spent your riches that you have earned (see sections 2.04 and 3.05) these
    sections will help you decide how to use the new cards to your best advantage.
    It can also be used as reference as you buy more cards to come back and see how
    you can continue to improve the decks. 
    I advise reading the whole of section 3.06 before using this section, as it
    will familiarize you with the deck editor. I will assume here that you already
    know how to use it.
    The advice given here is very general in nature, and is aimed mainly at
    starting players and those with limited experience. As you grow more confident
    you can and should decide what works for you. This advice is meant only as a
    guideline. Once you have been playing for a while and feel like taking your
    deck building to the next level, see section 7.00 onwards.
    Sections 4.01 and 4.02 will be useful whatever faction you have chosen. You
    should then concentrate on the relevant section from 4.03-4.05 for your chosen
    faction, but later it is well worth reading the other factions, both for
    playing them yourself and knowing what to expect from an opponent of that
    faction. The spell sections you should read depend on the Hero you have chosen.
    These are not directly linked to the faction of the Hero. You can find these
    as icons on the right hand side of your Hero card. For the starter Heroes this
    will be:
    Inferno- Fire, Primal
    Necropolis- Water, Dark
    Haven- Light, Air
    Also you should look at section 4.13 for every faction, as they all need
    event cards.
    For each section 4.02-4.12, I will separate the cards that appear in starter
    decks into three categories:
    Good- These are the stronger cards which you will want to hang on to, and 
    include more copies of when you find them.
    OK- These will do to begin with, but are not ideal, and you can look to replace
    them when better cards become available.
    Poor- These are the cards I consider really cruddy, either just because they
    are not very good, or they don't fit into the starter decks well. Replace
    these as soon as possible, even with an average card.
    Others- These are cards which don't appear in the starter decks, but which you
    should look out for as they are good cards to improve your deck with. They are
    also cards to get to know as your opponent may have them! I haven't listed
    cards which require a very high amount of might or magic, or more than 3
    fortune, as they are unlikely to be useful to a starting player. I've included
    the best 3 destiny fortunes in case you do decide to go up to that level. For
    those cards which are in the Void Rising expansion, I have put [VR] after the
    name. These come from Void Rising Packs or Emilio Packs. Herald of the Void
    cards have [HV] after them. I put a * next to the very best cards from those
    I have left out those categories where there are no cards I would put into them
    for a given section.
    Remember to apply all this advice in
    combination with the guidelines in section 4.01 below. A deck full of good
    cards may not be a good deck overall.
    A card list for the game can be found here (spoilers):
    Use this to read more about the cards I recommend using.
    #4.01 Deck building guidelines
    The advice I give here will mainly be aimed at using the starter Heroes, but
    much of it will still be valid once you start using other Heroes. I am going
    to give very general principles with which to start. I believe you will find
    them useful. But they should not be regarded as fixed: as you get better at
    understanding how to build a good deck you can vary or just ignore parts of 
    this advice as you see fit. But to begin with, I think these will steer you
    in the right direction.
    As I've mentioned several times in this guide, I recommend always using the
    minimum number of cards in your deck, 59. This is 1 Hero, 8 events and 50
    creature/spell/fortune cards in any mix. This is to help you draw your best
    cards most often.
    The next important thing to think about is what I will name the "maxout" of
    your deck. To find the maxout rating for the cards you have in your deck at
    any point, work out how much you have to increase each of the starting skills
    of your hero to be able to use every card in your deck. The total of these
    three is your maxout.
    For example, I am using a standard Hero, which begins with 1 might,
    1 magic and 2 destiny. The cards in my deck go as high as 4 might, 4 magic
    and 3 destiny. So I need to raise might 3 times, magic 3 times and destiny
    once. This is a total of 7 raises needed, so maxout=7.
    My advice is to aim for a maxout of no more than 6 to begin with. If you go
    beyond that, you will often find yourself too stretched in different
    directions. You may well have to choose between using the higher level cards
    of one sort, or the high level cards of another. This will leave a group of
    cards redundant for possibly the whole of that duel, as you just won't have
    the time to get the skills up before your opponent overwhelms you. 
    To make this even easier, as a general rule, you can ignore any creature that
    requires more than 4 might to cast. They may look great, but the fact is most
    of them are not worth the investment, and if you put high level might creatures
    in, this will require a reduction in the level of magic/fortune cards you can
    use for a given maxout number. You will find initially that magic in particular
    is extremely important, and it's better to have access to higher level spells
    than to push for the higher level creatures.
    On top of this, I would also suggest not worrying about increasing your destiny
    level at all to begin with. For starter Heroes, this means forgetting about
    anything requiring a destiny of 3 or more. I find fortunes, especially higher
    level ones, are the hardest cards to use effectively so I would avoid them
    until you really know what you are doing. If you do want to use some
    higher fortunes, then I suggest not raising it any more than 1. 
    If you follow the advice in both the above paragraphs, this will mean you
    only need to raise your might by 3 and your destiny not at all. This leaves
    you with being able to raise your magic by 3 points. So in summary, you can
    go up to 4 might, 4 magic and 2 destiny for a starter Hero. This gives you a
    good range of powerful creatures and spells, backed up by the occasional
    fortune. I have found this to be an excellent template for a standard deck.
    The next very important thing to consider is the amount of cards you have for
    each resource cost. You ideally want to have a nice mix of cheap cards, leading
    up gradually to expensive cards. Too many cheap cards can leave you lacking in
    power later in the game, and too many expensive ones can cause you to be
    overrun before you even get started. Go for a nice curve, that aims to make use
    of your available resources every turn for the first few turns. This will
    usually be with creatures, so the curve for them is especially important. As
    you go up the curve, you want generally less cards at each resources level. 
    Event cards are sometimes the trickiest of all. They are interesting because
    they can be just as beneficial to your opponent if you are not careful. You
    can sometimes make sure a card cannot possibly hurt you and can't help the
    opponent. (For example, Week of Taxes makes fortunes more expensive to cast.
    This works well in a deck with no fortunes.) But often it will be a matter
    of picking a card which is more likely to help you than your opponent, based
    on the rest of your deck.
    The last thing to consider is your ratio of melee creature to shooters. You
    want to have roughly an equal amount of each. Too many of one may lead to
    running out of space on a crowded battlefield to deploy more units, as well
    as falling foul of cards which penalize melee/shooter creatures. The more
    flyer creatures you have in the deck, the more you can relax this rule, as
    they can go in the back or the front line, filling holes as needed.
    #4.02 Neutral cards
    These are cards with the pale blue diamond icon in the top right corner, they
    are creature and fortune cards that can be used in any deck.
    Angry Wyvern: Quite versatile and tough, he can be handy initially, but as
    usual he's not quite worth the stretch to 5 might in your deck. I would suggest
    replacing him with a decent 4 might creature when you get one.
    Lesser Air Elemental: He is quite versatile being a flyer, and his 2
    retaliation becomes relevant given his high 6 health. Unfortunately he does not
    quite pack the punch you want for a 4 might creature, these are meant to be
    your game closers. But until you find better ones, he will do. He can provide
    fairly good offense and defense, especially when backed up by another unit in
    the same row.
    Lesser Fire Elemental: He is not too bad as a high level shooter to begin with,
    you will be glad to see him in your early games. His stats are alright, but 
    you can look to replace him when you get better faction creatures.
    Rogue Mercenary: 2 power and 4 health for 2 resources is pretty good, but it's
    a shame you have to pay to attack with him. Remember to take this into account
    when planning your moves each turn. He is alright for attacking and defending
    until you find something stronger.
    Sea Elf Archer: A pretty decent all round shooter, which can hold its own in
    most decks. Its main drawback is just 3 health, but most of the time this
    will do alright for a mid range shooter.
    Lesser Shadow Elemental: Although he is quite hard to kill in combat, he is
    too defensive and expensive. You want to be putting pressure on your opponent
    with a 3 resource creature, and your opponent can safely ignore this one and
    just move creatures out of his way.
    Pao Hunter: He is just too weak. 1 power is bad for 2 resources without a good
    ability to back it up. All factions can do better than this.
    Wild Griffin: Although handy as a flyer, his stats are just too wimpy for a 3
    resource creature. He is too easy to kill, and doesn't hit for enough.
    Ambush Spot: A fortune that can be handy in certain situations, but I feel is
    too narrow in focus to merit keeping. If your deck is running well, you
    should be able to cope fine without cheap tricks like this.
    Campfire: This is actually a really good card, but I list it as poor here only
    because I initially don't recommend using anything that requires increasing
    your destiny, to focus more on might and magic. I don't think it's worth 
    stretching your maxout just for Campfires, even if you have 4. But if you have
    several other good 3 destiny fortunes you are using, then by all means include
    this. It is a great way to gain resources and keep your cards flowing. It is
    eventually a must include for all decks using 3+ destiny.
    Dragon Vein: Not really suited to a starter deck, and to be honest I don't 
    use these "skill raise" cards hardly at all. The problem is that they can be
    almost useless later in the game, and tie up your resources in the early game.
    If your maxout skill is not too high, you don't need this.
    Dark Assassin*: If you are lucky enough to get one of these, it is one of the
    most amazing 2 resource creature which is brilliant for any aggressive deck.
    Dealing 1 damage a turn to you is not a big deal when he is doing 4 to the
    opponent, and he is extremely hard to stop with creatures as they need 5
    or more life just to survive his attack. He is vulnerable to many cheap spells
    like Fire Bolt and Sunburst, but if the opponent doesn't draw one of these
    they will probably lose the game in short order. If they do draw one, they
    have to pretty much use it right away which can mess with their timing. Note
    that the damage to the attacker is dealt first, so if you have 1 life and
    attack with Dark Assassin, you will lose the game before he can deal his damage
    to the opponent.
    Pao Deathseeker*: I call him Deathstreaker- look at the picture! He is an
    extremely versatile creature, acting more like direct damage which can be
    aimed at a creature, or the opponent given an open row. You can use him to
    deal the final points of damage to win a game, and can even pump him up with
    spells first for more damage. You can use him to kill a small creature,
    or finish off a bigger one. Be aware of the opponent having these; any time
    you are at 3 or less life with an open row, if he has one of these you are
    dead. But you won't see too many of them to begin with. If you can find a way
    to return him to your hand before end of turn, such as Broken Bridge or Town
    Portal, you can attack with him again, either on the same turn or a following
    one. If you don't get any of these in packs for a long time (like I didn't)
    it is possible to buy the pre-made Crag Hack deck from the shop for 125,000 
    gold to get one of these as it is included in that deck. It's a very steep 
    price to pay for one card so don't do it until you are desperate for one of
    Magic Peddler [HV]: If you are lucky enough to get one of the unique epic HV
    spells and it works really well in your deck, including one of these gives you
    another chance to find it during a game. I wouldn't recommend using more than
    one or two of these unless you have two epic spells as you increase the chance
    of drawing a redundant Peddler after already finding your epic. 
    Arcane Academy: Very good for decks which rely on getting a particular spell to
    deal with situations. Can be a bit slow for aggressive decks.
    Broken Bridge*: The best affordable neutral card for dealing with creatures.
    This has many uses, the most obvious of which is to return one or hopefully
    two enemy creatures to the opponent's hand. If you have a creature on that
    row you can move it out the way first. But you can use it to your advantage
    to also return one of your creatures, moving into that row first if need be.
    You may want to do this because your creature has taken a lot of damage, has
    a nasty ongoing spell from an opponent on it or has annoying counters on it.
    Also to rescue it from being stolen by Puppet Master.
    Gold Pile*: This is the most reliable way for almost any deck to quickly gain
    resources. It gives you a free resource, but remember it does actually cost
    1 resource to cast, so don't go down to zero counting on your extra resource
    first! Watch out for the Week of Taxes event that is popular, which makes this
    card temporarily useless by making it 2 to cast. This card helps get out a big
    creature/spell quicker, especially if you have gone first so you can raise
    your skills above your resource level. Or you can use it to get out several
    things at once early on.
    Observatory: For any deck with a lot of fortunes that needs to get a particular
    one in a hurry, this is useful. But can be too slow for very aggressive decks.
    Inheritance [VR]: A good way to get resources, but not as reliable as
    Gold Pile. Note that even though it is free to use it requires 3 destiny. When
    it works it is really good, but it sometimes ends up useless in your hand for
    long periods.
    Pillage [VR]: A relatively cheap way of disrupting the opponent, making their 
    next turn much less productive. The later on in the game you use it, the more
    of a difference it makes, so pick your point carefully. Best used when you have
    an advantage on the battleground.
    Revised Tactics [HV]: Good for starter Heroes as they already have 2 destiny
    which you need to cast this. You can remove cards from your deck that are not
    going to be as useful against the particular Hero you are facing, or the
    situation you find yourself in. For example, you may remove dispelling cards
    from a deck that seems not to be using spells, or Gold Pile later in the game
    when you no longer require it and would rather draw something else. This works
    best in slightly slower decks as the 1 resource cost, although cheap, can still
    mess up your curve sometimes in a fast deck.
    #4.03 Inferno faction
    These are cards with the red/yellow ring icon in the top right corner. They are
    creature and fortune cards that can only be used with Inferno faction Heroes.
    Cerberus: A bigger Demented, with one more on each stat. Uses all the same
    strategies and combos. Although he is very good, I am slightly more drawn
    towards taking him out of the deck eventually, but only because the 3 resource
    slot is overflowing with amazing creatures for Inferno, and there are just so
    many melee creatures that you want to include. But certainly always worth
    Demented: A slightly disappointing 3 health, but other than that this is a 
    great creature, highly suited to aggressive play. He combos really well with
    Teleport, moving him into position for a big sweep attack, hopefully hitting
    3 creatures at once. And also with buffs like Inner Fire, to hit with a huge
    sweep attack. Immune to retaliation means he can attack recklessly and is
    hard to block effectively.
    Juggernaut: One of my favourite creatures in the whole game, he pretty much
    nails the damage to resource ratio. He is very hard to block, and to ignore.
    When backed by a Fire Bolt, he can take down a 6 life blocker. Your opponent
    will fear this creature!
    Lilim: An amazing top range shooter, with an unbelievable 8 health making her
    stupidly hard to kill. She can even be put in the path of a Juggernaut quite
    effectively. One of the best shooters in the game.
    Maniac: A must for any aggressive deck, 2 power for 1 resource is 
    amazing. Later in the game if you are desperate for a block he can provide
    a cheap roadblock. He is hard to block from the outset when backed up by Fire
    Bolts and Inner Fire.
    Pit Fiend: A nasty piece of work, he can pick off cheap enemy units or finish
    off bigger ones. Works well in combination with Hellfire Cerberus. Sadly
    the 4 might slot is overpopulated with amazing creatures for Inferno, so you
    may eventually find yourself replacing him as I did, but I kept him for a very
    long time. Great when backed with damage spells and buffs. Remember he does
    take retaliation damage if he doesn't finish off a creature completely.
    Succubus: Excellent stats for 2 resources, this works in just about
    any deck. The best cheap shooter available.
    Breeder: He only just makes the OK column, because he helps you get your magic
    skill up quicker to cast big spells like Fireball while providing a bit of
    damage. But I would still replace him fairly quickly, as he doesn't provide
    enough early punch for an aggressive deck.
    Hell Hound: He looks good, and is alright for a very fast creature, being the
    only 1 resource creature besides Maniac for Inferno. But most of the time he
    proves a bit too weak and you end up babysitting him to keep him alive if you
    can't back him up with spells to force him through. Only keep him in for the
    long term if you plan on being super aggressive; even then I have just found
    he doesn't quite do what you want him to most of the time.
    Altar of Destruction: This is a powerful card, and one of the few in the whole
    game that can easily deal direct damage to the opponent. Use this exclusively
    as a finisher card- I forbid you to use it at any other time, unless you are
    certain you'll kill the opponent next turn and want to use your last resource
    point. The reason for this is you are giving away card advantage, and the 2
    damage to the opponent may not be as important as that card loss before the
    game is over. I put this as OK rather than good only because of its lack of
    versatility; if you are losing, it is totally useless. And sometimes you just
    don't need it, as you crush your opponent with your creatures anyway. It's one
    that's always floating on the borders of cards to include, you'll come to your
    own opinion on it. The more aggressive the deck, the better this is.
    Chaos Rift: A nasty card when it works, but quite risky. The faster your
    deck, the more likely this is to work. But if you come out slower than the 
    opponent this ends up being just an expensive single card draw. It can work
    very well, but be careful about whether your deck really is fast enough to be
    likely to benefit. Especially considering there is only one creature
    I consider worth using at the 1 resource level, unlike some other factions.
    House of Madness: This is a disruption card, providing an annoyance to the
    opponent. It is best played when you are in a strong position, and/or you 
    expect the opponent to need to play several cards in their next turn. In those
    situations it is very good, making the opponent lose cards for playing them,
    and if they cast more than 1 you have gained card advantage. It's not that much
    use when you are losing, or in a stalled situation, or early in the game, which
    is why I rate it only as OK. Can work very well in some decks though.
    Chaos Imp: Works well in combination with other discard strategies, but is
    pretty annoying on its own. It's a bit of a gamble as some Heroes have
    abilities which can kill this guy. But usually at the least your opponent has
    to kill it right away and discard a card too, giving you card advantage. 
    When they can't kill it, they will probably lose unless you are in a very
    bad position.
    Ravager: The bigger brother of Juggernaut, this guy is absolutely lethal if
    the opponent can't do anything about him. The only problem is that his health
    isn't any bigger, 4 makes him a bit fragile. Once you have 4 Lilim, probably
    the best 4 resource creature you can get. 2 of these is probably enough to
    complement that. Unless you are going completely creature crazy!
    Caller of the Void* [VR]: Inferno lacks a tough 3 resource shooter, and so
    if you are lucky enough to get this, it fits nicely. It works well in any kind
    of aggressive deck, especially with direct damage strategies. To keep the
    direct damage going you can move her around to get out of danger when she
    is threatened.
    Hellfire Cerberus* [VR]: Although 2 power is low, the attack anywhere ability
    makes up for it. Combined with damage spells and boosts, this can take out big
    creatures, as well as being useful for finishing things off. As it takes no
    retaliation, it can be used to pick away at something too. If you can move it
    behind a big melee creature, you can keep it defended. If the opponent can't
    kill this, they are in for a rough time.
    Hellfire Imp [VR]: Although tricky to use due to the unusual casting 
    requirements of 2 might and 2 magic, when he works he is very powerful for his
    cost. 3 attack is unusual for 2 resources, and he is one of the few flyer 
    creatures Inferno has.
    Chaos Seer [HV]: This is very easy to cast for Garant as you already
    have the 2 destiny required. Although this is a smaller and more expensive
    Succubus, the opponent must either ignore it forever and keep taking damage,
    or typically trade 2 cards for 1 by taking it out. Even if they kill it in
    combat you haven't lost any card advantage. It also has the benefit of hosing
    stalling strategies that rely on having a lot of cards in hand at once.
    Hellfire Maniac* [HV]: One of the few 5 might creatures worth considering, as
    it has an immediate effect. It makes the creature(s) opposite it attack it
    right away when you pass your turn, and then they take 4 damage. If two 
    creatures oppose him, the one that was deployed first will attack first, as
    far as my testing has shown. This guy is very useful as his 4 damage
    goes through most protections such as magic resist, incorporeal, melee guard
    etc. If the creature has 5 or more health it will survive, but as long as your
    Maniac survives you can often attack with it and finish off the creature in
    your next turn. It works at its best against creatures with low attack, or even
    better: zero attack, such as Tithe Collector. It can sometimes survive 2 or
    even 3 attacks if they are chosen carefully, giving you huge card advantage.
    But most of the time it's going to be good for 2 attacks at most before the
    opponent manages to kill it somehow or it succumbs to combat damage. But even
    then you have usually gained momentum and card advantage. It allows you to
    control your opponent's turn in a unique way, because the berserk creatures
    don't get to be buffed up before attacking, they don't get to be teleported,
    they don't get to move around and they don't get to attack your friendly
    creature behind the Maniac. Note that even if the Maniac gets killed by an
    attack, it still deals the 4 damage.
    Garant's Purge*: Good against any deck, but can be lethal against certain deck
    types that rely on a few cards for victory. By counting up how many copies
    there are in the deck of each card, plus those that the opponent has already
    used, you can often work out of the opponent has any in their hand. For example
    if you find 2 Fire Bolts and the opponent hasn't used any, it's a fair bet they
    have another 2 in their hand so using this will knock those two out of their
    hand giving immediate card advantage.
    Twist of Fate*: This is a great discard spell because it is guaranteed to pull
    something out of the opponent's hand without needing it to be of a certain
    type. It also gives you important information, knowing what is in the rest
    of their hand helps you plan what to do on the next few turns. Have a good
    look at the game situation and your opponent's current skill levels before
    deciding what to pick. It is tempting to throw out their biggest creature
    or spell, but it may be that they won't be able to afford it for several turns
    so a more pressing concern should be dealt with instead.
    Halls of Amnesia [VR]: A cheap and easy way of removing spell threats from the
    opponent before they wipe out lots of your creatures. Be warned that not every
    deck uses spells, so this is a slight gamble to include.
    Maws of Chaos [VR]: Exactly like Halls of Amnesia, but with fortunes.
    #4.04 Necropolis faction
    These are cards with the green/blue spider icon in the top right corner. They
    are creature and fortune cards that can only be used with Necropolis faction
    Fate Spinner: An upgraded Plague Zombie, he is extremely hard to kill and
    he will wipe out almost anything that blocks him through infect. The only
    problem is the relatively low 2 power, meaning the opponent can sometimes just
    ignore him. But still a solid creature.
    Lamasu: Really good stats at 2/2/6, hard to kill, a great blocker and very
    useful being a flyer. Good to provide pressure, or be a stop sign for early
    enemy creatures. 
    Lingering Ghost: Another flyer, and very cheap, extremely useful. The stats
    are not amazing, but being incorporeal makes him surprisingly hard to kill
    with creatures, especially early on. They need 4 power to wipe him out in one
    go, and you can safely attack non-magic creatures with retaliation of 1
    because that will get rounded down to zero. He is a great creature to drop in 
    front of an enemy 2/1/2 early creature. They will probably have to just move 
    their creature away.
    Neophyte Lich: Excellent stats for 2 resources, this works in just about
    any deck. The best cheap shooter available.
    Plague Zombie: A nice high 5 health makes him hard to kill, and your opponent
    will be worried about blocking him. He will cause most creatures to die
    pretty quickly if he can damage them thanks to infect. 
    Wretched Ghoul: A must for any aggressive deck, 2 power for 1 resource is 
    amazing. Later in the game if you are desperate for a block he can provide
    a cheap roadblock.
    Mass Grave: A very handy fortune, which cheaply disposes of both powerful
    early creatures your opponent puts out that you can't handle, or cheap blockers
    put in your way when you want to kill your opponent. Putting a card onto your
    library from your hand is a serious disadvantage though, essentially handing
    card advantage to your opponent. This fits in most decks, but not all.
    Plague Skeleton: Just 1 power is not good for 2 resources, but his infect
    ability coupled with immunity to retaliation means the opponent may leave him
    unblocked for most of the game. 
    Putrid Lamasu: He looks quite frightening, and he's not bad really. But like
    most creatures over 4 might, he's not quite worth it unless you are focusing on
    a seriously creature heavy deck. He will kill most things that block him, but
    often he will take retaliation damage before the infect finishes off the 
    creature, and he can only take so much of that. I suggest pulling him for a 
    decent 4 might creature when you get one.
    Skeleton Spearman: These are handy just because they are fast, and can pick
    away at your opponent if ignored. If blocked by a melee or flyer, you have
    the option of dropping your own melee/flyer in front of him to protect him.
    You may find him too wimpy once you get more cards, but for a really fast deck
    he is good.
    Graveyard: This is a pretty decent fortune, one which can help you
    recover from a bad situation by getting back your best dead creature, or can
    be used to draw a card later if you don't need it. The problem can be that if
    your deck is very fast (like this one is) you may often not be able to use
    the first ability. Consider this when deciding whether or not to keep this
    card in.
    No Rest For The Wicked: A variation on Graveyard, but without the chance to
    cycle it for another card. If you are playing a very fast deck, chances are
    the opponent will have more cards than you, and it's a cheap way of getting
    access to a useful dead creature.
    Archlich*: One of the best Necropolis 4 might creatures, having good
    attack, high health and being very hard to kill due to life drain. Suitable
    for virtually any creature strategy.  
    Atropos, Weaver of the Dead*: Out of all the 5 cost creatures in the game, I
    would rate this the best, and most worthy of including in a deck. His ability
    to get back creatures is devastating, and he is no slouch in combat either.
    You can sometimes even recur his ability by getting him back to your hand,
    either from the battleground or from your graveyard and casting him again.
    Vampire Knight*: A great mid range creature, 5 is high health for 3 resources
    and it just keeps getting filled up thanks to life drain. Throw in flying and
    this is a reliable creature that fits into most decks.
    Vengeful Spectre: The big version of Lingering Ghost, and much, much harder for
    the opponent to deal with. Where possible always put it in front of non-magical
    creatures. It will take them an age to kill it and when you hit back you take
    half retaliation also. The only problem is 2 power isn't great.
    Moonsilk Skeleton* [VR]: A handy aggressive 2 resource unit which the opponent
    is unlikely to want to block with anything that will take damage from it. Even
    if it doesn't kill the creature, the crippling counter will mess it up badly.
    These counters are cumulative also.
    Moonsilk Spinner [VR]: A possible alternative to Archlich, it is something the
    opponent will be unwilling to block as their creature will get seriously
    ruined even by just one attack from this. I would probably rate Archlich as 
    better overall, but there may be room for both in the right deck, or if you
    don't have access to the full amount of Archlichs yet. Note that this is one
    of the few shooters that takes retribution damage after its attack.
    Decay Spitter* [HV]: It kind of makes me sick having to recommend this creature
    as it is in my opinion very overpowered and is unbalancing creature combat
    between the factions. It is one of the very few creatures for 4 resources that
    has an instant effect, and boy is it a big one. The 2 poison counters will 
    cause a small creature to die right away after you pass the turn, and a 4
    health creature will only get to attack you once before dying the turn after.
    On top of this, 2 attack and 5 life with infect is a decent creature too. It
    can cover 2 creatures, by poisoning one so it dies right away, or very soon,
    while blocking another. It is really hard for any creature deck to do much
    about this, the poison tokens go through almost everything, and leaves an
    annoying creature behind to deal with. And when it gets killed, you can 
    reanimate it in one of the many ways Necropolis has, the real ace being
    Seria's Legion, giving you up to another 3 in hand! I have won many games just
    through this. Also it works wonders with returning to your own hand, especially
    Broken Bridge. You can move your almost-dead Spitter in front of an expensive
    enemy creature (or preferably two creatures) and return them all. Then you get
    to cast your Spitter again at full health, and poison another creature. Or,
    you could like, give your opponent a break? Note that this is one of the few
    shooters that isn't immune to retaliation. 
    Hangman Tree: [HV] A very nice blocker creature, suitable for any deck which
    isn't too focused on a rush strategy. It works particularly well with Ariana,
    helping you buy time until your powerful spells kick in. It will really
    frustrate a first turn 2/1/2 melee creature, as it will hit it back and then
    start regaining health if attacked. The opponent often has to put ridiculous
    amounts of effort into killing this if they want to do so early in the game,
    otherwise you just follow their creatures around with this... hang on, since
    when do trees walk? Anyhow, this also works well in combination with Earthquake
    and Insect Swarm, as long as it survives. If it's almost dead, it may be worth
    moving it out of harms way for a couple of turns to let it regenerate, before
    putting it back into action.
    Living Nightmare [HV]: I feel this card could have been a little stronger, but
    it is still fairly effective. Necropolis doesn't have much going on at the
    5 resource level (other than Atropos) so this can be a stop-gap towards
    raising might for Banshees, or just a top-end way to control the board. It
    works best when your opponent has doubled up small creatures against you,
    which they may do if your Hero and strategy make it look like you have no
    way of punishing this kind of formation. It is powerful enough to pick away
    at small creatures that decide to stay in front of it, and you know they can't
    attack it back and kill it, even a surprise Pao wouldn't be able to! So with
    6 health it is going to be a real pain for the opponent for some time.
    Skeleton Archer [HV]: The 3 resource slot is already overflowing with good
    creatures, and this is yet another one. It's hard to put them all into a strict
    order of power, but this is a good choice if you just want millions of 3 slot
    creatures, or are looking for more shooters. It's the only 3 resource Necro
    shooter, and has nice retaliation and health.
    Soul Consuming Lich [HV]: This guy has a tendency to never die, with a massive
    7 health and getting 2 back every time something dies. And you don't realize
    quite how often stuff dies until you see something benefiting from it! He is
    strong on his own, but works really well with Earthquake and Insect Swarm as
    these are bound to put him back to full health. When playing against one of
    these, make sure you kill the opponent's other creatures while this is at
    full health. Don't damage this and then kill other creatures if you can avoid
    it as some of the damage will be removed.
    Untamed Wraith* [HV]: Along with Decay Spitter, I feel this is a creature that
    has pushed Necro over the edge. This is super powerful! It is cheap, it's
    magic so it benefits from Week of the Wild Spirits and its 2 retaliation is
    very relevant especially due to incorporeal. It can block really well almost
    any melee or flyer. I feel this are a must for almost any creature deck.
    Asha Uses All*: Although it puts you down a card to use this, it is often well
    worth it to pull the specific fortune you need from your graveyard. Only 
    include this if you are using a large amount of fortunes in your deck.
    Shantiri Ruins*: Just like Asha Uses All, but with spells. 
    #4.05 Haven faction
    These are cards with the grey/blue plus icon in the top right corner, they
    are creature and fortune cards that can only be used with Haven faction
    Loyal Griffin: Cheap, sturdy and versatile. An excellent 2 resource creature.
    Radiant Glory: Yes, yes, yes. This is one of Haven's best creatures in my
    opinion. Very nice stats, the retaliation is relevant with high life, and a
    flyer too. Nice for getting in the way of small units, or providing a decent
    Sun Rider: One of the best 3 cost units for Haven, having high life, charge, 
    and being immune to retaliation.It is able to attack recklessly. When pumped
    up with things like Bless, it can skewer things to pieces. Works well with
    ways of moving him around, like Lightning Speed.
    Tithe Collector: Normally when you go first, you are always behind in the
    resources race. You get 1, the opponent gets 2, you get 2... and so on. But
    if you can cast this on the first turn, you jump ahead. You'll have 3 available
    on your second turn. This is very useful for all sorts of things. The extra
    resources make things easier for you. They stack in multiples too. Although
    he has no power this doesn't matter: if threatened with a creature just
    retreat him to an unopposed row. Only when you run out of places for him to
    hide is he in trouble!
    Warrior Seraph: Although stat wise this is worse than Radiant Glory, this is
    still a solid creature to be your top-end. With 5 life she has a decent chance
    of surviving some combats and/or spells, and can stick around to be a real pain
    for your opponent. While she is recharging you can move her around to keep
    her out of combat. The opponent must commit to killing her off cleanly or else
    dealing with her hanging around. Note that she regenerates her health before
    taking damage from poison counters, making her even harder to kill. 
    Fortified Outpost: Handy for the starter Hero as he can use this fortune
    without having to raise destiny- unlike Campfire / River of Gems. It can help
    you catch up from a fast start by the opponent by letting you get out bigger
    creatures or more at once. Later in the game you can cycle it for a card if
    it's no longer useful. 
    Imperial Crossbowman: Haven lacks the 1 resource 2 attack creatures that every
    other faction has. This and the card below are Haven's cheap attackers, and
    sadly are never going to be as effective. But this is alright for cheap damage
    and to get the pressure on the opponent from the start. You can move him 
    around when threatened, and hide him behind your other creatures. Probably 
    when you get a sound cast of creatures you'll no longer need this unless you
    are concentrating heavily on rushing the opponent from the start.
    Imperial Sentinel: This guy's not bad. He provides some decent defense,
    especially early on, against a weenie melee rush. By having a creature
    above and below him, he can protect 3 creatures including himself. And this
    stacks with multiple melee guard creatures, meaning 2 next to each other
    will reduce melee damage by 2. A little too easy to kill and a bit wimpy,
    but still a fair choice for an "aggressive" deck, as far as any Haven deck
    is ever aggressive!
    Devoted Sister: This would be maybe half decent if it healed itself as well.
    This really isn't very good, it does nothing on its own, requires a lot of
    adjacent positioning to work which sets you up for things like Fireball, and
    often your creatures will just be killed outright rather than wounded if the
    opponent knows what they are doing.
    Fountain of Youth: As is the case with many CCGs, there are not many Hero-
    healing cards that are worth it in this game. The opponent just may not care 
    about giving you life back, or if they do they have the option to not cast more
    than 1-2 cards. Generally this life gain is not worth it. It's more important
    to focus on winning rather than not losing.
    River of Gems: This is a good card; the only reason I put it in the poor 
    category is that I suggest taking out all 3 or more destiny cards to begin
    with to help you focus on creatures and spells. But if you do use this, then
    it gives you a big resource boost, usable fairly early in the
    game. It can help you get more threats on the table, or help you cast one or 
    more expensive cards.
    Elite Squire*: His ability to keep up to 3 of your creatures (nearly) safe
    from shooter damage can be really important. He's very cheap, and 2 retaliation
    can be relevant when small units want to attack him. Remember his ability also
    applies to retaliation damage, so you can safely attack a shooter with 2 or
    less retaliation without actually taking any of that retaliation damage, both
    with this creature and the adjacent ones. It's a good idea to space out your
    melee creatures initially so that he can go in between them. Even if you 
    haven't drawn him yet, you may do soon.
    Expert Marksman*: A very solid 2 resource shooter, good for most creature
    Holy Praetorian*: A bigger, better version of Imperial Sentinel. His 4 life
    makes him very sturdy, and he can seriously dampen a melee onslaught. 4 of 
    these is probably overkill but 2 or 3 are a great addition to most decks.
    Wolf Captain*: Possibly the most overpowered creature in the game, this is 
    ridiculous for just 2 resources. Quickly growing to 2 or 3 attack and with
    5 life, this causes chaos for the opponent while being hard to get rid of.
    And retribution just adds injury to insult. If you are lucky enough to get one
    they are amazing. Play them as soon as you can, then start ganging your
    creatures around her. [This has now been given a might requirement of 3 making
    it slighter harder to use and more balanced, but still very good.]
    Wolf Marksman [VR]: Although not fantastic, this provides a good mix of attack
    and defense, and is a headache for anything other than enemy shooters.
    Wolf Praetorian [VR]: A seriously tough melee unit which has probably the 
    scariest retaliation in the game. Anything that is isn't immune to retaliation 
    is going to get badly hurt attacking this, even if it manages to kill it. The
    biggest down point here is the low 2 attack, so it leans more towards a
    defensive rather than aggressive strategy.
    Angel of Mercy [HV]: This is somewhat hit and miss due to the random element,
    but it is at least guaranteed to get you card advantage whatever you get back.
    Note the unusual destiny requirement. The stats are not great for the cost, 
    but they are enough to cause some trouble and it makes a decent blocker at
    least. If you end up with several of these on the go and you get lucky, you
    can get an already dead one back when you cast a new one, then use it to get
    back something else as well. Combined with The Light of Tomorrow, you can
    almost endlessly recycle creatures.
    Griffin Knight [HV]: It's a nice addition to have a flyer guard. However, it's
    effectiveness is rather dependent on what faction you are facing. Sanctuary,
    Inferno and Stronghold do not have a lot of flyers, and that is 3 out of the
    5 factions you could face. But at the moment Necro is being played a huge
    amount, so it could be a good counter-choice. It's more expensive than the
    other guards, but is at least quite durable and can be set up exactly where
    it is needed to guard up to 3 creatures. Remember it protects against
    retaliation damage from fliers, helping you attack them more easily.
    Griffin Marksman* [HV]: This is my new favourite 4 resource Haven creature. I
    have felt that slot was a weakness of the faction so this makes a lot
    of difference. He is a sturdy shooter with nasty retaliation, and gets the
    job done. I would recommend 4 of these for any deck that can support them.
    Griffin Mounted Spearman [HV]: Not quite as strong in my opinion as the
    Marksman, but still a very useful creature and my new second favourite. He is
    a combination of a nimble attacker and a sturdy blocker. Where possible use him
    to finish things off, to avoid him getting whittled by retaliation. Any kind of
    buff like Bless will make him a nightmare. You can also set him up after
    attacking so as to avoid a dangerous formation. See section 6.04. Be careful
    if you are playing a deck which tries to keep many of your melee creatures
    alive, such as with Holy Praetorian. He may quickly run out of room to move
    about in, so may not be the best choice.
    #4.06 Water spells
    These are spell cards with the light blue wave icon in the top right corner.
    They can be used by any Hero with a matching icon on the right hand side of
    their card. It is used by the starter Necropolis Hero.
    Icy Weapon: Very expensive, but it provides a sizeable and permanent attack 
    boost. This can be used as a finisher, or more often to help a creature kill
    a big blocker and come out keeping the bonus. Don't just randomly throw this
    about due to its cost- make it count.
    Refreshing Spring: This is a handy, cheap way to either land an extra point of
    damage to finish the opponent, or help your creature kill a blocker slightly
    out of its normal range. May prove slightly underwhelming in the long run, so
    depending on your strategy you can look to replace this.
    Ice Wall: This is handy in some situations, and can help you win a "race"
    situation by ignoring some enemy creature for a turn. But given the aggressive
    nature of the Necropolis starter deck, it's a bit too defensive. Useful in 
    decks that don't want to go high into the magic skill as a way of stalling,
    but not great for the starting deck particularly.
    Blizzard: A fairly cheap way of dealing damage which can end up getting spread
    around and weakening several enemy units. Be aware that this can be passed on
    to one of your creatures, not just enemy ones. Spaces opposite each other from
    the two front lines are considered adjacent. Also note that if Blizzard kills
    a creature, it won't get a chance to move on to another creature. 
    Geyser*: A mini Fireball for water magic, probably its scariest overall spell.
    Being so cheap it's easy to include knowing you'll be able to do something with
    it, at worst just 3 damage to an enemy creature. But when you can hit multiple
    ones, it can be very nasty. Be aware that "adjacent" does not include diagonals
    but that it does include your creatures too if you aim it at their front line.
    Your front line is considered adjacent to theirs across the centre.
    Ice Spikes: Rather expensive, but has the potential to hit up to 4 creatures.
    Not normally worth casting until you can hit at least 2 at once. 
    Clashing Tides [VR]: This is a way of potentially crippling or wiping out the
    opponent's whole army. It works best of course when the opponent is using their
    front line a lot, but be careful because this will also hit your front line.
    If you have fliers, move them to the back before casting so they can avoid
    Ice Splinters [HV]: I would only recommend using this in a Sanctuary deck. It
    can be used to set up a row for you to outmanoeuvre creatures in to so that
    they are forced to take the damage. If you cast it on a row where you already
    have a creature, your creature won't take any damage and the creatures you
    move in to the row get the double whammy of 2 damage plus your attack. There 
    is a nasty combo going around where you cast Ice Splinters, then use The
    Song of the Lost to move the opponent's creatures into and out of the row
    until they all die. Ouch!
    The Strength of the Sea* [HV]: This works well in any deck, the permanent extra
    attack is great for any creature deck. But it works amazingly well against any
    deck that relies on fortunes to deal with creatures (Mass Grave, Broken Bridge
    etc.) by making them all redundant. You can even use this to your advantage by
    having your own fortunes like Broken Bridge or Throne of Renewal which will
    affect your opponent's creatures but not your own. The real strength of this 
    is against stall decks. It makes your opponent's Altar of Shadows useless; your
    creatures can attack anyway. They can't bounce your creatures with Throne of
    Renewal or Broken Bridge. This shuts down a lot of their strategy, and will
    make things really hard for them if they can't get rid of this.
    #4.07 Earth spells
    These are spell cards with the green leaf icon in the top right corner.
    They can be used by any Hero with a matching icon on the right hand side of
    their card. It is not used by any starter Hero, but you earn an alternate art
    Kat Stronghold Hero fairly quickly who can use earth.
    Earthquake*: It's cheap and capable of wiping out an early ground assault very
    efficiently. Useful in combination with flyers and life drain/regenerating
    creatures. Use more than one at once to take out bigger creatures, or in 
    combination with Insect Swarm.
    Insect Swarm*: One of the best spells in the game, a relatively cheap way of
    potentially wiping the board clean. Two cast one-after-the-other will almost
    always be enough to kill everything in sight. Save it in your hand for when
    things are going badly, either because the opponent has come out faster than
    you or has just killed a load of your stuff.
    Stone Shield*: Obviously this is quite defensive at first glance, but it can
    be used aggressively also as a way to ignore the opponent's creatures for a
    turn while continuing your own assault on other rows. It will last for the 
    whole turn, even when you take damage, so unless the opponent can otherwise
    remove this card, they cannot hurt you at all for the whole turn. A great way
    to secure your victory as well if you are on low life to defend against a 
    surprise Pao. Even better: If two Shields are active simultaneously, only one
    will absorb damage and become destroyed, leaving the other to protect you over
    the next turn!
    The Might of Nature* [HV]: This is amazing for keeping your melee creatures
    alive, especially if they have high health to begin with. This makes it very
    good for Stronghold with its War Oliphants and Tainted Orcs. It works against
    all damage, even damage you inflict yourself so your melee creatures only take
    1 damage from your Insect Swarm. This can be a real game winner if the opponent
    can't get rid of it or otherwise deal with your melee creatures. You can attack
    almost freely, only getting half retaliation back, rounded down! This is a
    great defense against poison counters: if there is just 1 counter on your
    melee creature it won't even take any damage. 2 or 3 counters will only deal
    1 damage a turn. Your melees will also take no damage from Immolation- even
    multiple copies.
    #4.08 Primal spells
    These are spell cards with the dark blue infinity icon in the top right corner.
    They can be used by any Hero with a matching icon on the right hand side of
    their card. It is used by the starter Inferno Hero.
    Teleport: Great in any aggressive deck, it can help you get the last bit of
    damage by moving to an empty row, or to get a surprise attack by moving your
    creature into position first. Especially good with sweep attack creatures. if
    the enemy isn't expecting it, this can be lethal. 
    Dispel Magic: When you need it this is really good, but sadly it will often
    sit in your hand the whole game and not be used. It's really a gamble putting
    it in. It depends on how much continuous spells bother you with your deck 
    Spell Twister: This is the ultimate way of addressing spells, using them
    against the opponent. They don't have to be ongoing, so there's a much better
    chance you will find something to use. Also use the information you get, you
    will find out what other spells the opponent is holding at the time. Use that
    to plan your strategy. This can be devastating when you use your opponent's big
    spell against them, not only getting rid of it but making them suffer the
    results, often at less cost than it would normally be. If the opponent happens
    to have a Spell Twister of their own when you use this, always pick that first.
    It will use it up, and then let you pick another spell!
    Town Portal*: An amazing card which is useful in almost any situation, with the
    exception of facing combo decks that don't use a creature until they kill you
    with it right away. Its main use is as an aggressive weapon, to clear a blocker
    out of the way and make the opponent waste time casting it again. Use it on
    the most expensive creature you can, to cause maximum disruption. But be wary
    of using it on a creature that does something after being cast, as the opponent
    will get that benefit again. You can also use this on your own creatures, to
    either cast them again with refreshed health or get rid of an annoying spell
    or counter on them. Also to rescue them from being stolen by Puppet Master.
    Mass Dispel [VR]: A grander version of Dispel Magic, but it requries 3 magic 
    skill instead of 1. It hurts a deck relying on a lot of ongoing spells at
    once, however this is quite uncommon. You will most likely be getting rid of
    just 1 spell at any one time with this, and it also kills your own ongoing
    spells. It's best used in a deck with no ongoing spells that will hang around
    for more than a turn. I think this card is worth mentioning, but I can never
    quite justify recommending cards which only work on ongoing spells as there
    often just isn't any worth worrying about in your average duel.
    Spell Steal [VR]: Like everything that deals with ongoing spells this is hit
    and miss, so is a gamble to include. But at least with this one, if you do find
    something you not only get rid of it but steal it, which is usually
    better. It works great on Stone Shield particularly, or stealing permanent
    creature buffs like Bless. But it can't steal the new powerful unique ongoing
    spells from Herald of the Void.
    Minor Recall [HV]: I feel this is overpriced, but it gives you a way to ignore
    an ongoing card that is annoying you for a turn. It can help you break through
    a Stone Shield, or remove an Altar of Shadows or Wasteland. Whether this is 
    worth it or not depends on how much you expect to see ongoing cards, and how
    much you are bothered by them with your deck, especially fortunes. If you are
    just worried about spells, then going for Dispel Magic or Mass Dispel would
    be better.
    #4.09 Fire spells
    These are spell cards with the red/orange flame icon in the top right corner.
    They can be used by any Hero with a matching icon on the right hand side of
    their card. It is used by the starter Inferno Hero.
    Fireball: A great spell, its downfall being it is so well known that good 
    players know how to avoid it. Sometimes you just can't avoid it though, and
    are forced to put creatures close together due to the situation, knowing if
    the opponent has a Fireball you are in big trouble. Save it for a situation
    where it can cause a lot of casualties. Be careful when using it, since it can
    also hurt your creatures if you use it on an enemy creature in the front line.
    The slot in your front line the other side of the middle is considered
    adjacent, so you will hurt a creature you have in that slot. You can always
    move them first, or by hitting a back row creature you can't hurt your own.
    Due to its notoriety and cost, I wouldn't recommend having more than 2 in a
    deck. Be aware that "adjacent" does not include creatures touching by 
    Fire Bolt: A must for almost any deck that has access to fire magic. This is
    probably the most efficient way of dealing with small creatures, and is also
    very useful at softening up a blocker ready for you to finish it off with an
    attack. It should be a card that's constantly on your mind when playing against
    a fire Hero! Don't waste it on something that isn't bothering you much; it can
    be much more devastating to take out something big in combination with an
    Fire Trap: A cheap way to stall a fast opponent, but one which they can get 
    round by just moving their creatures and can sometimes end up hurting you if
    things go badly. Replace it with better spells when you can. It's best used
    when you have a decent shooter out, to make it harder for the opponent to 
    attack it while you freely shoot away. The attacker still gets to do their
    damage before getting hurt by the Fire Trap.
    Fire Shield: Looks good at first, but there are too many ways round it. It is
    handy because it makes even shooter creatures take some damage, but if your
    creature is killed by a spell or even returned to your hand, you've lost this
    spell and it probably didn't achieve much.
    Frenzy: This is a bit hit and miss, and to be honest not that great, but it
    can be handy at first to fill the gap in the spell scale at 3 resources. It's
    at its best when the opponent casts a really big creature, but sadly you can't
    make it hit itself. I wouldn't recommend using this long term, but if you get
    one early it will suffice.
    Inner Fire*: A nice cheap way of bumping up a creature, to either kill a big
    blocker or do more damage to the opponent. I would only recommend doing the
    latter when you can kill them or put them in range of other things you have,
    otherwise the difference it makes in combat is usually more important. Great
    with the attack anywhere creatures, and with the sweep attack ones.
    Mass Inner Fire [VR]: In a creature heavy deck, this can be an amazing
    finisher. It's a bit expensive and of course relies on you having a decent
    number of creatures in play to work well. Fits in nicely with attack all and
    sweep attack creatures.
    The Forbidden Flame* [HV]: I feel this is blatantly overpowered, and is an auto
    include for any deck that goes up to 3 magic. 6 Damage is usually enough to
    clear the board, but if you need more than that waiting until your magic skill
    is 4 will almost certainly do the job. It gives you amazing control over the
    game, so save this for the absolute best moment to use. This is usually when
    the opponent has over-committed with their creatures, and wiping things clean
    will leave you with more cards in hand than them. As everyone is so focused on
    watching your magic skill creep to 4 for a Fireball (whether you have one or
    not) it is easy for them to overlook the fact that you have such a potent
    spell for just 3 magic.
    #4.10 Air spells
    These are spell cards with the light blue cloud icon in the top right corner.
    They can be used by any Hero with a matching icon on the right hand side of
    their card. It is used by the starter Haven Hero.
    Cyclone: Very handy to begin with, and you may like keeping this one in your
    deck at least for a while. The 1 damage can be crucial in finishing creatures
    off, and if you can stun lots of the opponent's creatures it can seriously
    mess up their assault, helping you win the race. Wait until you can land it
    on a decent number of creatures.
    Lightning Bolt: Expensive, but will take out most creatures in one go. So 
    don't waste this on a small creature unless there's a very good reason. It can
    even soften up a huge creature with more than 6 health, to be finished off by
    your attacker.
    Wind Shield: This is too narrow I feel, it doesn't even stop all the damage,
    and most players will have melee/flyers which this does nothing to stop.
    Too risky for what it does.
    Chain Lightning: A card people often forget about because it affects creatures
    that aren't adjacent rather than are adjacent. It can hit up to 3 enemy units,
    but watch out for it hitting your creatures as well as the front lines are
    considered adjacent. Diagonals are not adjacent. Try and hit at least 2
    creatures with this, and to try and force the opponent to set themself up for
    this with the way you use your creatures.
    Lightning Speed: This is like a permanent Teleport, and although expensive I
    have found this quite effective. When put on a big creature, you can usually
    right away kill something in another row, giving you no loss of card 
    advantage. If the opponent then can't do something to stop your creature,
    they are going to have a hard time as you go around picking off anything they
    cast. It can also be used to repeatedly find an open row to get damage through.
    Storm Wind: Don't get caught out by the 2 resource cost, unusually this needs
    3 magic skill. But once you are at 3, this is a cheap way of moving your
    opponent's guys around to your advantage. It can be used to move something in
    front of your creature so you can kill it, line up two creatures to receive
    charge damage, set up a Chain Lightning or Sunburst, or just move something
    out the way to get damage through. For a big creature that is in front of one
    of your units, you can attack it first, then move it in front of another
    creature with Storm Wind, then attack it again.
    Lightning Strike* [HV]: This fits nicely into most decks, needing a magic
    requirement of only 2. It is quite expensive, but it can kill outright even
    some medium sized creatures like Juggernaut, and will finish off bigger
    creatures when followed by an attack. Save it for these worthy targets. Don't
    hit something little unless it is really important to do so (say to get some
    vital damage through to the opponent).
    #4.11 Light spells
    These are spell cards with the yellow explosion icon in the top right corner.
    They can be used by any Hero with a matching icon on the right hand side of
    their card. It is used by the starter Haven Hero.
    Bless: A pretty cheap way to permanently power up your creature. Unless you can
    kill the opponent with this extra damage, I would generally only recommend
    using this to help your creature win a fight. This means you have swapped one
    card for another, and leaves the opponent with a big threat to deal with
    afterwards. Especially good on charge creatures.
    Sunburst: A devastating cheap damage spell. Remember this hurts your creatures
    too in the chosen row, but sometimes this doesn't matter if you're trying to
    get the last bits of damage through. As long as your creature survives and 
    theirs don't on the row, you will get to attack and win. Otherwise you would
    generally be better moving your creature out the way first before using this
    on a row. Even doing 3 damage to a single enemy creature is efficient for
    2 resources, but try and hit two creatures whenever you can. One of those
    key cards you quickly become very aware of when playing against Heroes with
    access to light magic. If you can use another card to line up two enemy
    creatures first, you can make your own "double hit."
    Word of Light: One of the most powerful 4 cost spells in the game in my
    opinion. A mass removal spell that doesn't hurt your creatures. With this in
    hand you can plan ahead, weakening any creatures the opponent has with more 
    than 2 life, ready to wipe out their whole population with this in one go.
    Casting one after the other, even in subsequent turns, can be truly
    devastating. Don't waste this on just one creature. It is at its best when
    the opponent thinks they are doing well with lots of creatures out.
    Heal: A lot of the time a good player will be wiping out your creatures in one
    turn anyway, in which case this card is useless. Even when you can use it, I
    think it is too defensive and ineffective to be worth having. A nearly-dead
    creature can still attack, so I would rather just put out more creatures than
    waste a card on a one-time heal.
    Cleansing Light: The cheapest way for light magic to remove ongoing spells.
    It will cripple a deck relying on a lot of ongoing spells at
    once, however this is quite uncommon. You will most likely be getting rid of
    just 1 spell at any one time with this, and it also kills your own ongoing
    spells. Use it in a deck with no ongoing spells that will hang around
    for more than a turn. I think this card is worth mentioning, but I can never
    quite justify recommending cards which only work on ongoing spells as there
    often just isn't any worth worrying about in your average duel.
    The Light of Tomorrow* [HV]: This is so strong that if your opponent can't
    remove it, and you're not already in a close-to-losing situation, it becomes
    extremely hard for the opponent to win. It gives you card advantage every 
    single turn, no matter what creature you get back. You can continue to recycle
    creatures over and over, and eventually you are bound to overwhelm the
    opponent and win. It works best with creatures that have an immediate effect
    like Pao Deathseeker, or outmaneouvre creatures, but really this works with
    #4.12 Dark spells
    These are spell cards with the blue half-moon icon in the top right corner.
    They can be used by any Hero with a matching icon on the right hand side of
    their card. It is used by the starter Necropolis Hero.
    Agony: This is handy for putting creatures in a bind, especially cheap ones
    with only 2 health. Unfortunately they still get to attack and deal their
    damage before getting hurt themselves, but this is still often worth it to
    limit a fast creature to just one attack, or weaken a big creature ready for
    killing in another way. Not quite good enough for the long run, replace this
    with more potent spells when you get them.
    Death Seal: For a fast, aggressive deck like this, this card can be useful.
    It will set up any blocker to die instantly to your attacker, no matter how
    small, and without a chance to retaliate. The drawbacks are the fairly high
    cost, and when you are on the defensive or the opponent just want to race
    you on other rows, this is of little use.
    Purge: Although cheap, this is very narrow and may well not be of any use
    for the whole of many duels. 
    Shadow Image*: In the right situation, this is devastating. Ideally you want
    the opponent to have just cast a creature that you can kill with the copy,
    possibly combining with another spell or another creature attacking. Then it
    becomes harder for the opponent to deal damage to your copy without using a
    spell, and even if they do they have often lost two cards for one.
    Soulreaver*: The most efficient single creature kill card in the game. The only
    drawback is you will often find yourself spending 4 resources to kill something
    that costed your opponent less, so try to focus on expensive creatures. It's
    cards like this that make creatures requiring 5+ might seem unappealing.
    Weakness: A nice cheap way of shutting down a small creature or severely 
    hampering a bigger one. It does suffer from being vulnerable to ongoing spell
    destruction though, and the creature can still be pumped up and used as a
    Moonsilk Fetters [VR]: Note that this requires 3 magic skill even though it
    only costs 2 resources to cast. This is a cheap way of making 2 creatures less
    scary, either so you can kill them easier or ignore them while attacking with
    your own creatures. Although not amazing, I find it can be very useful in most
    creature conflict situations. 
    The Silent Death [HV]: At first glance this seems totally unfair, but the
    important thing is that the creature that gets enchanted will normally get to
    attack before it dies. This means you either have to accept damage from it,
    or have a blocker on hand. I feel this card is more suited to a control deck,
    which has more ways of keeping enemy creatures at bay. Things like Hangman
    Tree would work well with it, soaking up the damage from the creature before
    it pops off. Combined with mass destruction if the opponent over-commits, this
    card can give you unlimited card advantage. In an aggressive deck I feel that
    Soulreaver is generally better as it instantly removes the blocker and you
    don't have to worry about getting damage back. But in any crowded battlefield
    scenario, or where you are way ahead on life points, it can draw out a slow
    victory for you.
    #4.13 Events
    Celebrations: This is alright, as it can't be easily used by your opponent to
    get an advantage so is low risk. But similarly you must be careful about using
    it yourself, as you give cards to your opponent. In a desperate situation this
    may provide a card you really need, and later in the game where you have a lot
    of resources, you will at least be able to use the card you draw before the
    opponent gets to use theirs.
    Day of Fortune: I quite like this one. It's not very risky as it's expensive
    to use for either player. It works well in any deck that has cards which you
    may want to get rid of in some situations, like cards which deal with ongoing
    spells and none have turned up, or resource gaining cards later in the game.
    It can also be used in a tricky way to plant cards in your graveyard for later
    use by one of your cards, for example to bring them to the battleground with
    Week of the Weaponsmiths: A pretty safe choice, and one that is alright for
    most aggressive decks, especially those favouring cheap creatures. It can give
    them a bigger late game punch, and it especially good for decks with "attack
    anywhere" creatures. 
    Week of Knowledge: This doesn't suit the aggressive nature of the starter
    decks, it is much more for slower, card drawing control decks. You may
    help out your slow-playing opponent with this card, and you probably won't
    activate it much yourself unless you get a really bad initial draw. Come
    back to this later if you create a much slower, control style deck.
    Mana Storm*: Great for decks that use few or no spells.
    Market of Shadows*: Great for decks that don't care about hurting themselves,
    or for encouraging the opponent to hurt themselves. Also great for cheap decks
    that quickly have more resources than they can use, to turn this into card
    advantage. Or for decks that don't always do much even on their first or second
    turn as an alternative/backup to Week of Knowledge.
    Market of Wonders: Great for decks that generate a large amount of resources
    to help them use this to find specific cards when there's nothing else to do
    with the resources, and decks which rely on getting certain card(s) to deal
    with some situations.
    Month of the Dancing Flames: An alternative to Week of the Mercenaries. It is
    better in one way, in that it can never fail. But it is more expensive to use,
    and giving your opponent an extra retaliation point can be annoying. In a mega
    creature rush deck you can make use of both Week of the Mercenaries and this
    Week of Taxes*: Great for decks that use few or no fortunes.
    Week of the Mercenaries*: Great for decks that use a large amount of creatures
    (as a rough guide, at least 25, preferably 30+.) This can be used effectively
    with any method of drawing cards or putting cards on top of your library. Cards
    like Altar of Destruction can be used to put a creature on top of your deck if
    one isn't already there when you activate this event. You can activate Week
    of the Mercenaries, before using any Hero abilities that turn. If the top card
    is not a creature, you can use your Hero to draw a card, giving you another
    chance to make the top card a creature. You can also use other card drawers
    like Campfire in the same way.
    Path of the Ancestors* [VR]: Great for decks that use few or no targeted cards.
    Note that this event does nothing against your creatures being attacked, as 
    that does not require choosing a "target".
    Week of the Tamed Spirits* [VR]: Great for decks with few or no magic 
    Week of the Wild Spirits* [VR]: It used to provide its effect for free, but 
    even at its current 1-resource cost, itís a bargain (especially compared to 
    Month of the Dancing Flames).
    Blind Arbiters [HV]: This is useful for decks that don't tend to use many cards
    in a turn, as a defense against combo decks which require a flurry of cards to
    achieve a big finish. Or for a slow deck to generally put the brakes on faster
    Day of the Sanctuary [HV]: An alternate to Path of the Ancestors, which applies
    only to one creature but it doesn't matter when it came into play. This is
    again best in a deck which doesn't do a lot of targeting itself, or one that
    likes to get out a big creature and keep it out. It is useful to interfere 
    with the opponent's spells which hit adjacent creatures. For example, I have
    my creatures in this formation to avoid a Fireball:
    If I put down another creature, it's going to create a group of 3 or 4 that can
    all be hit by a Fireball if my opponent's magic skill is nearing 4. But if I
    put a new one in and am able to use Day of the Sanctuary on it, I can stop them
    doing this:
    N is my new creature, which I target with the event. Now I am safe from losing
    more than 2 creatures to a Fireball, at least for 1 turn. Note that this event
    does nothing against your creatures being attacked, as that does not require
    choosing a "target".
    Hail Storm [HV]: This is an interesting card, the only event so far that
    directly damages creatures. You have to be prepared for your opponent to use
    it right back at you, though. So it tends to work better in decks with one
    or more of the following:
    -Fewer than normal or no creatures
    -High health creatures
    -Creatures that can get health back in some way
    Don't put it in a deck with Shadow Image, as your opponent can use this event
    to kill off your creature copy. 
    #4.14 What to buy from the shop
    In section 3.05 I have given an overview of what to buy from the shop and what
    to avoid. Please read that first.
    This section gives some more help about when to try out buying different
    things. Always refer to this great website to see what cards are available 
    from each set, using the filters at the top:
    Stage 1- Beginning the game
    Spend all the gold you have earned from the tutorial levels and games on 
    Reinforcement Packs. Spend your first 1000 seals on The Box. This will give you
    a decent selection of base set cards with which to improve your starter deck.
    Use the above sections to find out what cards to look for. Don't forget to use
    the promotional codes, see the end of section 3.05.
    Stage 2- Your first few play sessions
    Continue to spend gold on Reinforcement Packs. Save up your seals until you 
    have at least 1000. If you feel desperate for more base set cards, buy
    "The Box" again. Otherwise I would recommend getting Herald of the Void boxes
    with your seals. I feel like this is a much more user-friendly expansion than
    Void Rising. You are much more likely to get cards you will want to use 
    for your starter deck. There are lots of powerful commons and uncommons, so 
    your decks should improve quite a bit with the new card selection. 
    Stage 3- Starter deck shaping up, ready to try other factions
    Once you feel like your starter deck has improved to a decent level, you may
    want to try out other factions. Use the deck editor screen (see section 3.06A)
    to see what creatures and fortunes you have of a different faction to your
    starter Hero. If it looks like these may be enough to put together a reasonable
    deck (remember you'll be able to add spells to this too) then you can start
    buying Heroic Packs. These will give you a Hero in each pack, and let you 
    start building different decks. See section 3.06 for how to go about this.
    If you think your cards don't look ready for that yet, keep buying
    Reinforcement Packs until they do.
    Stage 4- Got most of what you need out of the base set
    Once you feel you have a large proportion of the base set and in enough numbers
    that opening more Reinforcement Packs is unlikely to give you more useful
    cards, it's time to start spending your gold on something else. I would
    recommend now using your gold on Void Rising packs. This set has a lot of
    powerful cards in it, along with some not-so-good and hard to use cards. But
    after buying a number of packs, you should find some great cards to improve
    all of your decks. 
    Also it has a large amount of Sanctuary cards, the fifth faction. You will need
    a Sanctuary Hero to be able to make a deck with it, if you are lucky you will
    get one in a Void Rising Pack. The only other way to get one if you just can't
    seem to pull one out of a pack is saving up your gold and buying the Sanctuary 
    premade deck for 75,000. This will have a lot of useful cards in it too. It's 
    up to you whether you stick it out with the packs, eventually you will pull a 
    Hero but there's no guarantee when. If you are really lucky, you will have got
    the Sanctuary Hero from Herald of the Void.
    I suggest you continue to spend your seals on Herald of the Void boxes, as you
    can use gold to get access to both the base set and Void Rising. Seals are more
    Stage 5- Got most of what you need from Void Rising
    The other use for gold is Emilio Packs. These are good because they offer cards
    from all three sets, including HV. This is the only way to get HV cards with
    gold. It is the most expensive pack however. But still worthwhile in my opinion
    once you have bought a lot of Void Rising packs already. It is good for trying
    to fill the holes in the base set and VR, while also dipping into HV. The
    other alternative is to save up your gold for when HV becomes available to
    buy using gold.
    #5.00 Playing online and ELO ratings
    This section covers moving on to playing against people online. If you haven't
    already, I highly recommend completing all three levels of the tutorial (the
    last being Wolf Warriors) and spending your riches to improve your deck. You
    will struggle an awful lot initially if you don't do this, as the starter decks
    are pretty weak and badly designed. See sections 2.00-2.04. You should also
    re-read the help files by clicking the question mark in the bottom left hand
    corner of the main menu. If you are looking to improve your playing skills,
    see section 6.00 onwards.
    Press the big PLAY button to begin looking for games. If you have a campaign
    screen up, keep pressing "go back" in the top-left corner first until you
    return to the main menu.
    Look at the "choose your deck" section at the bottom of the screen. If you 
    have more than one deck, use the left and right arrows to pick
    the one you want. Only valid decks will be available, if you saved an 
    incomplete one, you can't select it here. If this section isn't visible, first
    click on the "duels" tab near the top-left of the screen.
    When playing online you always have the option of surrendering; click the cogs
    icon at the bottom-left of the screen, and select surrender. Be warned, there
    is no confirmation message! As soon as you click this, you will lose the duel.
    You have something called an ELO rating which measures how successful you are
    being in your games against others. It starts out at 0, and goes up every
    time you win and down every time you lose. However, it can't go below 0. To
    see your current ELO rating, click the red banner icon at the top of the screen
    and look for where it says Skill rating (ELO) in the middle of the screen.
    You shouldn't be concerned with your ELO rating. Don't let it frustrate you.
    Concentrate on learning the game. Sometimes you will lose just because the 
    opponent has access to much better cards than you currently do. Don't worry
    about all of this, just keep playing and earning more riches to buy cards.
    Concentrate on building better decks and learning strategies rather than trying
    to get a great ELO score. Over time, when you are ready, you will find it 
    starts going up as you find your stride anyway. You still get XP and gold even
    when you lose.
    Once you get to 500 ELO points, you cannot drop below this by losing unless you
    lose 10 games in a row. Similarly for 1000 and 1500. Be wary of reaching 
    1000 too quickly, as you will find the difficulty of opponents will grow
    dramatically once you get above this number. Don't be disheartened if you start
    suddenly losing a lot at this stage, you are facing some of the best players
    the game has to offer. 
    I have heard recently that even going above 500 ELO can get you into some
    hard matchups, particularly because of people deliberately losing to keep
    their rating down. See section 5.06.
    #5.01 Finding an online opponent
    Press the PLAY button, and then click the "duels" tab near the top-left if it
    isn't already selected.
    Once you've chosen your deck (see section 5.00) press the FIGHT button in the
    bottom right-hand corner of the screen. A timer will then appear, and the game
    will try and find you an opponent. The timer will keep counting until one is
    found. Once it gets one for you, the game will start automatically. If you
    change your mind, press the button underneath the timer, which will cancel the
    During the game the ELO rating of both players is shown under their name. After
    the duel is finished you will see some statistics relating to the duel, and
    see how much gold and XP you earned. Unlike playing against the AI, you have
    a two minute time limit for each of your turns. Once the timer is getting close
    to running out, it will count down at the top of the screen. If it runs out
    before you end your turn, the turn will be automatically passed.
    #5.02 The reward system and using boosts
    Each time you finish an online duel, unless someone quit right away, both the
    winner and loser are awarded gold and XP. The winner will get more of course.
    The amount awarded generally increases the more turns the duel took. This means
    that even if you are losing, it is worth defending for as long as you can
    rather than surrendering. But of course if someone is about to win and is
    clearly deliberately messing about to gloat over it without passing the turn,
    you may as well go ahead and surrender instead of waiting for them to finish
    being an idiot.
    Don't worry about losing, all you actually lose is ELO rating and you really
    shouldn't be worrying about this for a long, long time. You can relax while
    playing knowing that even if you lose, you will still get XP and gold. That's
    what is important. XP will cause your level bar to progress, shown at the
    top-left corner of the main menu. To the right of the bar is your current
    level. When this fills, you level up and your level increases by 1. In
    addition to this, you will be awarded 10,000 gold and 100 seals. Gold and
    seals are the in-game currency, and are shown just under your level progress
    bar. Gold is in yellow, seals are in blue. Once you have at least 12,500 gold
    you can buy another booster pack to improve your deck and work towards being
    able to use another faction. And once you have 1000 or more seals, you can buy
    a box of boosters which will be a tremendous help! I recommend mainly saving
    up your seals for boxes rather than spending them on other things, particularly
    individual expansion boosters, as boxes are a more efficient use of seals.
    See section 3.05 for how to use the shop.
    As you play you will also unlock various achievements, getting a reward each
    time you do so. See section 3.04. You will unlock them quite regularly as you
    begin playing. This will slow down as you reach higher levels but every so
    often you will unlock another one. 
    There are boost items which can be used to increase the amount of XP or gold
    you get from duels. You can be awarded these from achievements and from 
    promotional codes, as part of daily rewards, or by buying them in the shop, 
    under consumables (see section 3.05). Once you have pressed PLAY, you will see
    a "boosts" window in the bottom-left of the screen. If you have any boosts in 
    your possession, they won't do anything until you activate them here. Click on
    "use" for the relevant boost and it will be activated. If you don't have any of
    that type, the button will instead say "get more". Clicking on this will send 
    you to the shop.
    Each boost lasts for the next 5 duels after you activate it, then disappears.
    The XP boost doubles the amount of XP you receive, and the gold one awards
    you an extra 50% of gold. I don't recommend activating either of this when
    you are taking part in tournaments, as you may face tougher opponents than
    usual, and the gold output in jackpot tournaments is lower than normal.
    #5.03 Jackpot tournaments
    Note that until you reach 200 ELO, tournaments are not available.
    I advise staying away from tournaments until you have been playing for a long
    time, and have had a chance to build up your collection and make a really good
    deck. You will face players who have honed their deck over time and you'll be
    disappointed if you rush into a tournament as you will most likely just not
    have the cards to compete. However, jackpot tournaments are free to enter,
    and except for earning less gold than usual during duels, there is nothing to
    lose by taking part.
    Every other day there is a jackpot tournament. Click the PLAY button and then
    the "tournaments" tab underneath. If the "jackpot" tickbox is highlighted just
    under this, then it is a jackpot day. Otherwise it is a Swiss day, see section
    5.04. The tournament will start at 13:00 GMT and will run for 23 hours.
    Click "enter tournament" in the bottom right of the screen. Then this button
    will change to "find opponent", click this to start looking for someone to
    duel just like a normal online duel. You have a two minute time limit per
    turn as normal.
    You receive less gold than normal in a jackpot duel, because some of the gold
    is being put into a pot. The size of the pot is shown on the left of the
    screen. You can continue to play as many duels as you like until the 
    tournament finishes. The amount of time left is shown above the "find opponent"
    button. You are allowed to pick a different deck or make a new one at any
    point in the tournament.
    Everyone who enters the jackpot tournament is given a jackpot ELO rating of 0.
    So it is like you have started again with the ELO system within this 
    tournament. By winning your jackpot ELO will go up, and it will go down when 
    you lose (but again cannot go below 0). Your tournament rank is shown on the
    middle-right of the screen. As your ELO within the tournament goes up, this 
    rank improves (goes down) as you climb the leaderboard. Click the blue button
    below to see your standing. 
    Once the timer for the tournament has run out, the tournament closes and the
    results will be calculated. If you are close enough to the top of the
    leaderboard, you will receive a share of the jackpot. It is split into tiers.
    You get a bigger cut the higher tier you are. To stand a chance of getting
    a cut, you need to be roughly within the top 500. The exact figure will depend
    on how many people have entered. Until you are getting into the tiers, sadly
    you will get nothing. However, you lost nothing by trying, apart from earning
    less gold during your duels in the tournament. You can always try again in two
    days. The results of the tournament will be sent to you as a notification. It
    takes a while after the tournament has finished; usually about an hour.
    #5.04 Swiss tournaments
    Note that until you reach 200 ELO, tournaments are not available.
    I advise staying away from tournaments until you have been playing for a long
    time, and have had a chance to build up your collection and make a really good
    deck. You will face players who have honed their deck over time and will be
    disappointed if you rush into a tournament as you will most likely just not
    have the cards to compete. As a rough guide, I would say wait until you have
    an ELO rating of 1100+ until entering Swiss tournaments.
    Every other day there is a Swiss tournament. Click the PLAY button and then
    the "tournaments" tab underneath. If the "Swiss" tickbox is highlighted just
    under this, then it is a Swiss day. Otherwise it is a jackpot day, see section
    5.03. Unlike jackpot tournaments, Swiss tournaments are not free to enter. They
    require the payment of one ticket for each tournament you enter. The amount of
    tickets you have is shown to the right of your seals in the top-left corner
    of the main menu, in brown/grey text. You should be given 5 for free when you
    create an account. Currently this is the only use for tickets. More tickets
    can be purchased in the shop, see the "consumables" part of the shop. See 
    section 3.05. Swiss Tournaments begin at 13:00 GMT on alternate days, and are
    available for 23 hours after that.
    Click the button at the bottom-left of the screen to enter the tournament, it
    warns you that a ticket is required. It will then show you how the queue of
    players for your tournament. 8 players are required before the tournament can
    begin, wait until this has filled up and then the tournament will start
    automatically. Note that you cannot change or edit your deck during the 
    tournament so make sure you have your best deck in place before starting. Also
    you should make sure you have an hour of free time to play, as Swiss tournament
    can last up to this long.
    Swiss tournaments are run in individual groups of 8 competitors, and consist
    of 3 duels. You are randomly paired within the group of 8, and have a standard
    duel. The big difference here though is that you have a time limit! At the top
    of the screen will be a timer in red for each player. It will begin at seven
    minutes, and when it is your turn to act it will count down. Note that while
    you are choosing whether or not to take a mulligan, it will not count down, so
    you don't need to rush the decision.
    Once the game has started, keep an eye on the clock! If this timer runs out,
    you will lose the game instantly, regardless of how well you are doing in the
    duel. So don't rush too much, but don't take a really long time over any
    one decision as you may have got used to in general duels with a 2 minute
    timer per turn.
    After the duel has finished, you'll be shown the league table of the 8 players
    in the tournament. You may need to wait for other players to finish their
    duels. Keep on this screen. You are then paired off with another player, who 
    is close to you on the league table. Then after this you will play a third and
    final game.
    If you end up winning the tournament (probably by winning all three duels)
    you will win the first prize, a premium Herald of the Void Pack. If you
    come second, you'll get the second prize, currently a Void Rising Pack. If 
    you have played all your three games without quitting the tournament, you
    may be lucky enough to be awarded an Emilio's Pack, which contains a mix of
    base set cards and expansions. It is worth playing all the three games just
    for this chance. You will gain XP and gold just as normal anyhow for these
    duels. I am not totally sure, but it seems to me that the Emilio's Pack is
    awarded randomly to one of the players who did not finish first or second
    but played all three games. I have finished third many times and not got the
    pack, so it's certainly not just for the third place finisher. And I have only
    got one once out of several chances, leading me to believe that only one is
    being given out randomly amongst the non-winner players.
    Once you have finished the third duel and are returned to the league table,
    you will see a message saying you have completed all three duels. At this
    point it is fine to leave this screen and start playing other duels or going
    to the deck editor etc. It will not boot you from the tournament for doing
    this before all players have finished their duels. A little while after the
    tournament has finished, you will get a notification telling you how you
    ranked in the tournament, and if you won a prize.
    Coming first is simple, but deciding who comes second is surprisingly complex.
    Instead of just awarding it to the player who lost in the "final" after winning
    their first two games, it can instead be awarded to any of the players with a
    record of 2 wins and 1 loss. It is decided using a "break points" system. In
    my opinion this is really stupid and it should just go to the loser of the
    final. But anyway, this is how it works:
    When you win a game, you get 5 points. If you lose, you get 1 point. (Don't
    know what happens if you draw... but this is exceedingly rare.) In each of
    the three rounds, you get matched with someone who has the same amount of
    points as you. Your break points are the total number of points of all the
    players you faced in the three rounds, added together. So for example, say
    I played against player A in the first round, then player B, then player C.
    Player A ends up losing all 3 of his games so has 3 points. Player B won
    2 out of 3, so has 11 points. Player C won 3 out of 3, so he has 15 points.
    My break points are 3+11+15=29. Then out of all the players who are tied
    for second place (this will be those with 2 out of 3 wins) the one with the
    highest break points gets 2nd place. Why do they use this system? I have no
    idea. Its purpose seems to be to get the "finalist" to be second anyhow but
    it is messed up by people quitting the tournament early, because they then
    receive no further points, lowering their opponent's break points.
    The moral of the story is that if you don't win all 3 games, you are not 
    guaranteed a prize. So make sure you feel you have a decent chance of winning
    all 3 before you start playing Swiss.
    #5.05 Practising against friends
    You will notice that playing duels online involves a random opponent. If you
    want to play against a specific person, you need to first send them a friend
    request, and have them accept. See section 3.02. 
    Press the PLAY button, then click the "practice" tab underneath. Your
    available friends are shown in a list at the bottom of the screen. You must
    both be on this screen and have "Play versus friend" ticked before you can
    send a challenge.
    Note that you do not receive XP or gold from practice games, nor does your
    ELO rating change. There is an achievement for winning 30 games against friends
    though. Be warned that wins from direct challenges through the friends list do
    not count towards this achievement! Which is very weird.
    #5.06 Procedure for players being abusive
    At some point while playing online you will most likely come across some bad
    behaviour from other players. There are procedures for reporting this, which I
    will detail below. Please DO NOT go on the forum and start a topic accusing a
    player of bad behaviour, even if you have proof. This is against the rules and
    will only get you into trouble. 
    If you feel someone is being unduly hostile or abusive to you and you want to
    report it, you must take a screenshot. Without this kind of proof, the game
    team can't do much. 
    If the opponent is acting weirdly, for example doing nothing at all each turn
    or just using a Hero ability every turn and nothing else, you are probably
    facing a "bot". A popular choice for this is the Hero Belias, and they will
    just use his damage ability over and over. You will win the game of course.
    A bot is not being controlled directly by a human, it will be a program 
    someone has made to play for them following a set of basic rules. The reason
    they do this is to generate free XP and gold, because they get it regardless
    of the fact that they keep losing. By doing some damage to you with Belias'
    ability, they get a bit more gold. So when they are not playing the game
    themselves, they set their bot to play. This is against the rules, and
    you can take screenshot(s) of this behaviour and report it. They can ban
    players for doing this.
    How to take a screenshot:
    1) Press the button on your keyboard marked something like "PrtSc" which is
    short for "Print Screen". It should be somewhere to the top-right, after the
    function keys F11, F12 etc. It will seem like nothing has happened. What this
    does is copy the contents of the screen onto the clipboard.
    2) Open up a document in Microsoft Word, Open Office, or whatever program you
    like to use. 
    3) Paste the screenshot onto the document. You can use Ctrl+V, or right click
    and select "paste". Or however your program does it.
    4) Save the document to your computer.
    You can now submit a report to the game team, and they will take the 
    appropriate action. This is how to send a report:
    1) Use this link:  https://support.ubi.com/en-GB/AskQuestion.aspx
    2) It says "Submit your question to the support team" near the top of the 
    screen. Under this, it says PRODUCT, and there is a box that says Platform 
    with an arrow to the right of it. Click on the arrow.
    3) Select what you play the game on (probably PC or iPad) from the list that 
    comes up.
    4) To the right of this is another box, with Product written in it. Click 
    the arrow to the right of this.
    5) Scrolls down the (big) list of games, to find MIGHT AND MAGIC DUEL OF 
    CHAMPIONS. There are five games listed under MIGHT AND MAGIC, this is the last
    of those 5. It appears just above MIGHTY QUEST (whatever that is hehe).
    6) Underneath there is a window marked CATEGORY, with Category written in the 
    box. Click on the arrow to the right of this, and select what you are writing
    to them about. For abuse, people losing on purpose, or bots, I'd say select
    Multiplayer or General/Feedback.
    7) Under this is a text box marked SUBJECT. Type here a summary of the problem,
    for example "Abusive player" or "Bot found".
    8) Underneath is another texbox marked QUESTION. Type in here, in as much 
    detail as possible, what you are experiencing. Be specific, listing as much 
    about the situation as you can. You have up to 4000 characters to do this, 
    the counter is shown below the window.
    9) Click on the Choose File button underneath the QUESTION textbox. Find 
    your document on your computer. You don't have to do this to file a report,
    but the chances of action being taken will be much higher if you do.
    10) When you are ready, click CONTINUE at the bottom. If it works, you'll 
    get a screen saying your question has been submitted and telling you that 
    you'll get an email soon. (I recommend highlighting and copying to the 
    clipboard your text in the QUESTION box in case there is a problem before 
    pressing continue.)
    11) If you get a message saying there's a problem, paste your question text 
    into notepad for now and save it. Try this all again later, and copy your 
    text back in to save you typing it all again. Most of the time this has all
    worked fine for me. Only once did I get an error.
    #6.00 Improving your playing skills
    This section is aimed at both new players and current players, giving you ideas
    on how you can improve your play. There are many aspects of the game, and I
    hope by sharing my experience I can help you think of new things. Very 
    experienced players will probably find nothing they do not already know here!
    This is a deep game, do not expect to master it overnight. This section
    addresses the strategies used during duels. For help with improving and
    building decks, which is just as important, see sections 4.00-4.13.
    #6.01 Rules and terminology
    The help file (the question mark at the bottom left of the main menu) gives
    an excellent overview and introduction. If you haven't already, read this 
    through again as it covers most of the rules you need to know. I won't repeat
    them all here, I will just add to them with things I think are either not
    stated or less obvious.
    (1) There is no maximum hand size. You do not have to discard cards when you
    have more than a certain number, like in many card games.
    (2) Only one ongoing spell can affect a row or a line at once. If there is
    already one affecting a row or line, you cannot cast another one in that
    (3) A creature can have any number of ongoing spells attached to it, and you
    can have any number of general ongoing spells and fortunes at once, which
    appear above your Hero. 
    (4) You get one chance to "mulligan". This means that if you do not like your
    starting hand, you may choose to be dealt another one. If you do, you must
    stick with your second hand.
    (5) You can tell who is going to go first before you decide whether or not to
    take a mulligan. Look at your resource circle, just to the left of the 
    END TURN button at the top. If the blue number at the bottom of your circle
    shows a zero, you will go first. If it shows a one, you will go second. Use
    this information when deciding whether or not to mulligan.
    (6) By hovering the mouse over your deck or your opponent's, you can see how
    many cards remain in the deck by a message that appears in the bottom-right
    corner of the screen. Similarly by hovering over your opponent's hand, a
    message tells you how many cards they have.
    (7) You can right click on your opponent's Hero to zoom in on it. This should
    be the first thing you do each duel, to find out what their abilities are and
    what schools of magic they have access to.
    (8) When you run out of cards from your deck, you don't lose the game. Each
    time you are required to draw a card from your deck (the standard draw each
    turn, or any other effects that make you draw cards) you take 1 damage. You
    are still in the game until you reach zero life, so can in theory continue
    with an empty deck for a long time. Of course you will not be getting any
    new cards so must rely on what you already have in your hand.
    (9) Cards that affect things on the battleground by default can affect both
    your cards and your opponent's cards. If it can affect only one or the other, 
    this will be noted on the card, using the terms "enemy" or "friendly".
    (10) When a card refers to creatures that are "adjacent", this means creatures
    directly to their left and right, and those directly above and below them. It
    does not include creatures at diagonals. Both player's front lines are 
    considered adjacent, as if the centre partition did not exist. This means if
    I use a Fireball (4 damage to target creature and each adjacent creature) on
    a creature in the opponent's front line, it will also damage a creature that
    is in my front line to the left of that creature. When hovering over the 
    potential target for the spell, the affected adjacent creatures, including
    yours, will be highlighted.
    (11) Damage from creatures is not removed at the end of each turn.
    (12) To "deploy" and "cast" a creature are two subtly different things. When
    you cast a creature, you then deploy it. But there are other ways of deploying
    creatures which don't require them being cast, such as bringing them back from
    the graveyard by Resurrection. Most of the time this distinction doesn't
    matter, but occasionally it does. If a card says you cannot cast creatures, you
    can still deploy them with other methods. If it says you can't deploy creatures
    then you can't even put them onto the battleground using other methods.
    (13) If a creature is "immobilized" this means it can't be moved from where it
    is like normal, but it can be moved in other ways such as with Teleport or
    outmanoeuvre abilities. It can still attack.
    (14) When you cast a creature with outmanoeuvre (Sanctuary faction) you don't
    have to move a creature if you don't want to. If you'd rather leave all the
    enemies where they are, click the cross to the top-right of your Hero to cancel
    the ability. Your creature will then just get deployed without doing anything
    (15) You cannot "heal" a creature to above its maximum life total. (This is
    usually the value on the creature card, but can be increased such as with Month
    of the Emerald Song.) You cannot "heal" your Hero to above its starting life
    (16) Crippling counters from an attack take effect before retaliation is dealt.
    So for example, I attack your 4/2/4 creature with my 2/1/3 creature with
    crippling 1. My creature deals 2 damage to yours, and the crippling counter is
    put on your creature, making it 3/1/2. Then your creature retaliates, and only
    deals 1 damage back to my creature.
    (17) Regeneration happens before damage from poison counters is applied. So
    putting a poison counter on a creature that has regenerate and 1 health left
    isn't going to kill it. It will gain its health back first. The same is 
    generally true, if a creature's ability is competing with another effect to
    see which applies first, the creature's innate ability is always first. 
    (18) Magic creatures always require at least 1 level of magic skill. Check each
    card to find out the requirements. If a creature doesn't say that it is a magic
    creature, then it isn't one. Being magic or not magic is not related to whether
    the creature is a shooter, flyer, or melee.
    (19) The Hero Kieran has an ability that deals 1 damage to creatures that deal
    him damage. For creatures with the life drain ability, the life drain happens
    first. So a creature with 1 health left and life drain 2 will survive, because
    it gains its 2 health back putting it at 3, then it takes 1 damage from Kieran
    putting it at 2.
    (20) If something "cannot be targeted" then it can't be chosen for cards and
    effects which specifically use the word "target", such as "deal 2 damage to
    target creature". They are still affected by things that don't target, such as
    "deal 3 damage to all creatures" and can still be attacked. Choosing which 
    creature to attack does not count as choosing a target. Note however that 
    ongoing spells that enchant creatures do target, even though they don't use 
    the word "target".
    (21) If something says you "put a card into your hand" rather than drawing a
    card, then it doesn't count as drawing a card. This can be important because
    some cards like Void Arbiter stop you drawing extra cards, but they won't stop
    you "putting" cards into your hand. Less importantly, attempting to "put" a
    card into your hand from your library when it is empty won't cause you to take
    damage whereas attempting to draw a card will.
    (22) The fear ability can prevent a creature being hit by being adjacent to a
    sweep attack. For example, you attack my Maniac with your Demented, which 
    requires 2 might and has sweep attack. I have a Lurker in the Dark (fear 3)
    adjacent to the maniac. The Lurker takes no damage from the Demented, because
    he is "scared" to sweep his attack into him. However, fear will not stop a
    creature getting hit by area blast or focused blast abilities.
    (23) If a card is "banished" it means it leaves the game and cannot come back.
    So it won't be in the graveyard, it is just gone for good.
    (24) The "owner" of a card is the player whose deck it started in, even if
    control of it has changed (such as with Puppet Master). A card will always go
    to its owner's graveyard when it leaves the battleground.
    #6.02 Attacking
    You can attack with your available creatures in any order you wish. But the 
    order in which you do so can be crucial. In general, you want to attack with
    creatures immune to retaliation first. This includes almost every shooter.
    For example, I have a 2 power shooter and a 2 power melee creature in the
    same line. I want to attack and kill the enemy creature opposite them, which
    has 4 life and a retaliation of 2. The correct way to do this is to attack with
    the shooter first. Because he is immune to retaliation, he won't lose any life.
    Then I attack with the melee creature, finishing off the enemy. Because the
    enemy loses his final 2 life from this attack and dies, it won't deal any
    retaliation damage to my melee creature (unless it has retribution). If I had
    attacked with my melee creature first, he would have taken a needless 2 points
    of retaliation damage before the shooter could then finish off the enemy.
    Sometimes the order you attack the enemy creatures is important too. Say I have
    a 2 power melee creature opposite an enemy creature with 2 life. Directly
    below both these creatures is my 2 power flyer, and the enemy's creature with
    2 life and melee guard 2 (prevents 2 combat damage from enemy melee creatures
    to this and to adjacent friendly creatures). I should attack with my flyer
    first, killing the melee guard creature (since flyer doesn't count as melee).
    Now I can attack with my melee creature, and kill the other creature. If I did
    this the other way round, my melee creature would not even damage the creature
    facing it as the melee guard from the creature below would prevent it.
    As another example, if the opponent has creatures with enrage you intend to
    attack, you generally want to do this first. Otherwise, if you kill another
    of their creatures first, the enrage creature will gain a counter and so its
    retaliation goes up and you may take more damage than you needed to in return.
    If you are going to use a spell in combination with an attack to kill an
    enemy creature, do the spell first. This will mean that your attacker won't
    receive any retaliation damage, since it will be finishing the creature off.
    Be careful about attacking before making your plans with spells. Sometimes
    an attack can sabotage the effectiveness of your spells. For example, I have
    a creature ready to attack and kill an enemy creature. There are 2 enemy
    creatures adjacent to that enemy, above it and below it. If I have something
    like a Fireball (deals 4 damage to target creature and all adjacent creatures)
    then it is better to use this on the enemy creature, so I can hit all 3 at
    once. If I attack first and kill the creature, I will have lost my target in
    the middle of all the other creatures. 
    #6.03 Life totals, blocking and races to win
    A common mistake in games such as this is worrying too much about your life
    total. Of course it is important, because if it runs out you lose. But what is
    more important is that as long as you kill the opponent before they
    kill you, you still win. It doesn't matter how much you have left. This means
    that if you "trade blows" with them, and you are doing more damage than they
    are each turn, you will eventually win.
    It often happens that your opponent will leave open one or more of the rows
    you occupy and let you attack them, while you similarly leave some rows open
    for them. As long as the rows you have free have more potential for damage,
    then this is in your favour. Even if they are not, you may still win if your
    opponent has already been reduced to a lower life total. Play out a few turns
    in your head to see whether a "race" like this is going to work out well for
    you or not.
    One of the reasons to get into races like this is because blocking a creature
    gives the first attack between creatures to your opponent. In the most obvious
    case, putting a creature down which can be killed right away by your opponent's
    creature has only achieved preventing one attack from that creature and nothing
    more. You must consider whether that is worth it in the current situation.
    Unless your life is very low and you are in danger of losing soon, this is
    usually not worth it. It is better placed somewhere that is can deal damage
    back to your opponent, and try to win a race- after fixing the race with
    spells at some point as needed!
    Even if your creature cannot be killed right away by the enemy creature, it
    may still be a poor tactical decision to block it. Consider how a "back and
    forth" between the two creatures would play out, given that the enemy gets to
    attack first. For example, I put a 2/0/4 creature in front of my enemy's 2/0/3.
    This may seem good at first glance as my creature is stronger. But unless
    I am planning to interfere with a spell, the opponent is going to kill my
    creature first. He attacks dropping my creature to 2 life, I attack back
    dropping him to 1, then he attacks again killing my creature. This is bad for
    me, again unless I am desperately low on life and require the defense.
    So effective blocking usually means putting a creature in front an enemy one
    that will win a "back and forth" with it. However, depending on the magic
    schools the enemy is using, even this can be dangerous. It is very important
    to familiarize yourself with the magic schools the enemy Hero has at the 
    start of the duel to help you make this kind of decision. If the enemy has
    access to fire magic, then they will very likely have Fire Bolt. This only
    needs 1 resource and 1 magic skill, making it instantly available. This can
    interfere with your intended "back and forth" by knocking two life off your
    creature. Also Inner Fire only costs 2 resources and 2 magic skill, and boosts
    their creature by 2 attack. With both these potential threats, I generally
    suggest taking into account 2 damage on your creature before deciding whether
    a block is good or not against a fire magic player. 
    So for example, to block a creature with 2 power I want to have a creature
    with 5 or more life.  Otherwise I risk them using a cheap spell, most 
    likely cheaper than my creature, to rig the fight and win right away. I would
    usually rather put my creature in an open row and trade blows with their Hero
    than take this chance.
    Of course this is only a general rule, and is less important the cheaper 
    the creature you are using to put in front of the enemy. This rule also
    applies when playing against enemies with access to light magic, although
    not quite as strictly. Bless is a popular light magic card, and it applies a
    permanent 2 attack bonus to a creature. By using this, the opponent can easily
    rig a fight just as above, meaning I prefer to make sure my blocker can win
    a back and forth even after taking this into account. But since Bless needs
    3 resources and 3 magic skill, it won't be available in the first few turns of
    the game. Keep an eye on what skills the enemy raises so that you know when to 
    start taking this into account.
    #6.04 Important cards to remember, formations
    There are several cards which should govern the way you play, so as to avoid
    getting wrecked by them. They are generally cards which work best when your
    creatures are in a certain formation, but I have included some others to be
    aware of when planning your strategies. For each card I suggest strategies to
    play around it. They are only guidelines, it's not always possible to do
    exactly as I suggest here. But when possible, these can save you a lot of
    grief. Get familiar with these cards! I put a little diagram underneath some
    to demonstrate the formation I suggest. C=creature placed here, *=empty space.
    These are just examples, you can use lots of variations of these.
    It may be that the specific combination of magic schools the opponent has 
    means that preparing for one card leaves you vulnerable to another. It is then
    a judgement call as to which you are most worried about given the current
    situation and what is in your hand. 
    If you feel you have to create a "bad" formation, make it as much to your
    advantage as possible. For example, I know the opponent is playing with Broken
    Bridge which returns all creatures in a row to owner's hand. I feel I need to
    double up my creatures in one row. I can make this undesirable for the opponent
    by doubling up cheap creatures which can be easily cast again, creatures which
    have taken a lot of damage so I can replenish them, or creatures which have
    an ability when they are cast so I can activate it again. Or say I need to put
    two creatures in a row even though I know the opponent has Sunburst which deals
    3 damage to all creatures in a row. I choose to put one small creature which 
    would die in the row, but also a bigger one which would survive. If it has 
    life drain or regenerate, better still, so it can recover from the damage. In
    this way I reduce the advantage of the "double hit".
    The very first thing you should do when you start a duel is to look at the 
    opponent's Hero. Right click on it to zoom in. Look at what schools of magic
    they have access to, and then the list below will show you what potential
    important cards they may have. Neutral cards in the list can be found in any
    deck, so you always have to look out for them!
    Pay close attention though to the skill requirement for each card. The higher
    it is, the less you have to worry about initially. But as you see the opponent
    raising their skill near to the required value, you need to start thinking
    about what would happen if they do have the card. Also pay attention to how
    many of these cards the opponent has already used. If they have played 3
    Sunburst already, there is a much lower chance than normal that they have one
    still in their hand. Also keep an eye on how many cards are in the opponent's
    hand. The more they have, the better chance they have one of these problem
    cards. You may wish to gamble on them not having it if they are very low on 
    It is good to become familiar with as many cards as possible eventually, but
    I have listed here the ones I think you are most likely to come across
    regularly and that you should be initially aware of. These are the cards that
    you can do most about by the way you play.
    It may be the case that your opponent does not use higher level spells and/or
    fortunes at all. You may be able to figure this out after several turns from
    the way the opponent raises their skills, and the type of
    events they are using. If you see them not raising magic and using the Mana
    Storm event, you can be fairly sure they aren't going to have Fireball in their
    deck. If they don't raise destiny and use Week of Taxes, you can bet they won't
    be using Broken Bridge. You can then adjust your strategy accordingly.
    Because of the way some of the spells below work, you are sometimes better not
    playing a creature at all, and just holding it back. Some examples:
    (a) I have several creatures with 3 or less life out already, and am doing well
    in the duel. My opponent is playing with Earth magic. I would decide not to
    play any more small creatures as he may play Insect Swarm and kill them all. If
    he does eventually play it, I then have backup in my hand to cast
    (b) I have 3 creatures out against an opponent using fire magic. This is the
    state of play, C being my creatures, E being an opponent's creature and * being
    an empty space:
    			*C	**	
    			C*	**
    			*C	**		
    			**	EE
    I have allowed him to keep attacking unopposed in the bottom row, while I
    control the top rows. I have a shooter creature I am considering playing.
    I notice his magic skill is at 3. Considering that he will be able to raise
    it to 4 next turn and may well have a Fireball, it could be a big mistake to
    play my shooter in the first or third row. Even though it would appear to
    improve my position, it may give my opponent a better target for Fireball,
    being able to hit 3 creatures instead of just 1 as he currently can. So if
    I do play the shooter, it should probably be in the bottom row, as a speedbump
    to the opponent to help me win the life race (see section 6.03). If my life
    total is quite safe, then I may instead choose to just keep it in my hand to
    replace my current shooter if it gets killed. 
    ---Inferno faction----
    General: Watch your life total!
    ALTAR OF DESTRUCTION, destiny=1, deals 2 damage to opponent, put a card from
    your hand on top of your library
    Be very careful of Inferno players when deciding whether or not to race them
    to low life totals (see section 6.03). They can finish you off with these, 
    even using them in multiples to kill you from higher life values.
    -----Water magic------
    Generally: Zigzag!
    GEYSER, magic=3, deals 3 damage to target creature and each adjacent creature
    Use a zigzag formation, having just one creature per row, and alternating
    between front row and back row as you move down the rows.
    			*C		C*	
    			C*	or	*C
    			*C		C*	
    			C*		*C	
    ICE SPIKES, magic=3, deals 2 damage to all creatures in target line
    Spread your creatures out between the front and back lines.
    -----Earth magic------
    Generally: Don't over-commit!
    EARTHQUAKE, magic=2, deals 2 damage to all non-flyer creatures
    Don't have two many low health ground units at once, especially if the opponent
    just has flyers or high health units out.
    INSECT SWARM, magic=3, deals 3 damage to all creatures
    Don't have more creatures on the battleground than you need, keep some back in
    case of a mass kill. Use as many high health creatures as possible.
    -----Primal magic-----
    Generally: Double up! Primal spells can't directly damage your creatures, and
    Town Portal threatens to remove your blockers. Having two in the same row
    gives extra security. This needs to be balanced by considering your opponent's
    other magic shool(s) and if they can take advantage of being doubled up.
    Also, Minor Recall is dangerous against you if you are playing a stall deck as
    it can remove your Altar of Shadows, Stone Shield etc. to your hand for a turn.
    -----Fire magic-------
    Generally: Zigzag!
    FIRE BOLT, magic=1, deals 2 damage to target creature
    Avoid blocking a creature unless your blocker has at least 3 more health
    than the attack of the enemy creature (so block a 3 attack creature with a
    6 health creature).
    INNER FIRE, magic=2, increase the attack and retaliation of a creature by 2
    until your next turn
    Same strategy as for Fire Bolt.
    FIREBALL, magic=4, deals 4 damage to target creature and each adjacent
    Use a zigzag formation, having just one creature per row, and alternating
    between front row and back row as you move down the rows.
    			*C		C*	
    			C*	or	*C
    			*C		C*	
    			C*		*C
    -----Air magic--------
    Generally: Bunch up!
    CHAIN LIGHTNING, magic=4, deals 3 damage to all creature adjacent to target
    empty space
    Put your creatures in lines, or pack them close together so as not to leave
    		C*		CC		CC
    		C*		CC		**
    		C*	or	**	or	**	
    		C*		**		CC
    CYCLONE, magic=4, deals 1 damage to all creatures in target line and stops
    them attacking for a turn
    Spread your creatures between the front and back lines (favouring the second
    and third formation examples for Chain Lightning above).
    -----Light magic------
    Generally: Avoid doubling up in rows!
    BLESS, magic=3, increases attack of a creature by 2
    Avoid blocking a creature unless your blocker has at least 3 more health
    than the attack of the enemy creature (so block a 3 attack creature with a
    6 health creature).
    SUNBURST, magic=2, deals 2 damage to all creatures in target row
    Avoid putting two creatures in the same row.
    WORD OF LIGHT, magic=4, deals 2 damage to all enemy creatures
    Avoid having too many low health creatures out at once.
    -----Dark magic-------
    DESPAIR, magic=3, deals 2 damage to all creatures not adjacent to another
    Keep creatures adjacent to each other. I haven't seen this an awful lot but
    thought it may be worth pointing out.
    Generally: Avoid doubling up in rows!
    BROKEN BRIDGE, destiny=3, return all creatures in target row to owners' hands
    Avoid putting two creatures in the same row.
    PAO DEATHSEEKER, might=3, 3 attack, can attack right away, dies at end of turn,
    immune to retaliation
    Don't leave any rows unguarded when you are at 3 or less life.
    #6.05 Order of actions in a turn
    You have a lot of choice over what order you do things in a turn, and it can
    make a lot of difference what order you choose. Here is a rough gameplan for
    each turn that I recommend.
    (1) Don't make any hasty clicks. Stop and assess the situation. Take into 
    account the new card you have drawn, and the new event card that will have been
    turned over. Think about what your opponent is likely to do next turn, based on
    the level of his current skills. (Refer to section 6.04.) You usually have two
    minutes per turn, and while I'm not suggesting you play like a snail, there is
    no need to speed through your turn either.
    (2) Develop a plan for your whole turn, deciding what you are going to do with
    every creature and every point of resource you have. Don't click on any cards
    in your hand before you have thought it through. If you do select a card then
    the opponent gets to see what it is, and if you then decide to not play it
    you have given away vital information.
    (3) Remember when creating your plan that the event card currently on the
    right of the two will be available to your opponent in their next turn.
    (4) If the plan involves anything with an uncertain outcome, you should do 
    those first. These are things such as activating Week of the Mercenaries or
    casting Monastery of Helexia. If you intend to definitely do them as part of
    your plan anyway, it is best to find out the results right away. The outcome
    may lead you to alter your plan or come up with a new one. If not, you've lost
    nothing by trying.
    (5) If your plan involves drawing one or more cards (say you work out you will
    have 1 resource left that you will use with your Hero ability to draw a card)
    then draw the cards next before you do anything else. Upon seeing this new
    card, you may be able to develop a better plan than the one you already had in
    mind. If you had drawn it last after doing everything else and using up your
    resources, it will be too late to take it back. If no new plan emerges from
    drawing the card, you have lost nothing by trying.
    (6) Now execute your plan, either your initial one or the new improved plan
    based on card draws.
    #6.06 When to take a mulligan
    You get one chance for a mulligan each duel. It is an important decision, so
    don't rush it. You want to consider several factors:
    (1) Do I have cards in hand to be able to make use of all my resources in the
    first few turns? (Or an alternative plan such as using your first turn to 
    draw a card using Week of Knowledge.)
    (2) Do I have a sensible proportion of creatures/spells/fortunes that I can
    survive on?
    (3) Am I going first or second? Is this hand good for that? (Look at the 
    circle to the left of the PLAY button at the top, where your resources are
    shown. If there is a blue zero at the bottom, you are going first. If it is
    a one, you are going second.)
    (4) What Hero is my opponent using? Is my hand good against it? (Right click on
    your right-most card in your hand to zoom in and to allow you to see past it to
    the enemy Hero.)
    (5) Most importantly, based on the answers to all of the above and your
    knowledge of the contents of your deck, how likely is it that I would draw
    a better hand if I take a mulligan?
    If the answer to question 5 is greater than 50% then mulligan, if less than 50%
    then keep your hand. This is all very much a rough guide, but hopefully it
    will give you some things to think about. You must know your deck very well
    to be able to decide. 
    When going first, you either want a very fast start (like a 1 resource creature
    or Gold Pile to bring things out quickly) or else you will most likely be on 
    the defensive (as your opponent gets to play 2 resource creatures before you,
    and 3 resource creatures etc.) So if your hand isn't suited to either of these
    strategies, consider taking a mulligan.
    When going second with any kind of creature strategy, you normally want to be
    the aggressor. This means a good 2 resource creature is important for your
    first play, followed up by either a 3 resource creature or multiple small
    ones. Otherwise you will be handing the initiative to your opponent.
    #6.07 Positioning flyers
    This is pretty fundamental, but something easily overlooked in a tense game.
    When choosing whether to put your flyer in the front line or back line, take 
    into account the following:
    (a) Which placement gives a good formation for dodging key cards the opponent
    may soon use? (See section 6.04)
    (b) How many creatures do I already have in each line? Will I cause 
    "overcrowding" in one of the lines which may cause one of my small creatures 
    to be caught with nowhere safe to run?
    (c) How many shooter and melee creatures do I have in my hand? Where will I
    need space in the next few turns for my creatures?
    (d) If I end up putting two creatures in a row, is this flyer good to have in
    the front or the back? Regenerating, life drain, incorporeal and high health
    flyers can be good at the front, to take punishment. Smaller ones can be 
    protected at the back.
    (e) Can I gain an advantage from my creatures being adjacent? Some cards like
    Wolf Captain or those with the honour ability get more powerful (or grant
    power) when surrounded. Flying creatures give you the perfect opportunity to
    do this as they can be deployed in any possible adjacent position, to make
    room for melee and shooter creatures which are restricted.
    Remember when moving a flyer already on the field that it doesn't have to stay
    in the same line. It may be better to move it backwards or forwards as well as 
    changing rows.
    #6.08 Bluffing
    Don't forget that your opponent won't know what exactly is in your deck, so
    you can try to mislead them. Some turns you may find the only thing you can do
    with your Hero abilities is raise a skill, because you can't afford to pay
    the resource to draw a card, or do anything useful with any other ability they
    have. In these cases, even if you don't need to, it's worth raising one of your
    skills more. You know that this is pointless for your deck, but your opponent
    does not. If you do have at least 1 resource spare though, always draw a card
    rather than try to bluff.
    For example, I have my might/magic/destiny skills at 5/3/3 and I know I don't
    need them any higher than this to cast anything in my deck. I find myself in
    a turn where I can't draw a card with my Hero (after needing to spend all my
    resources) and have no useful "free" Hero ability. So I can think about what 
    skill to raise as a bluff. I would probably raise my magic skill to 4, because
    it then looks like I may have level 4 or higher spells in my deck. This may 
    cause the opponent to adjust their strategy to account for the spells I might
    be setting up for, and cause them to be over-cautious. If they pay no 
    attention, then you've lost nothing by trying. Think what looks most scary-
    usually I would say this is raising your magic skill, if not then your 
    destiny skill.
    There are not too many more opportunities for bluffing in this game, but you
    may come across some. Just think about what the opponent actually knows, and
    what you could do to mislead them- legally of course! Keeping more cards in
    your hand gives you the image of having a lot of options, even if you know
    they aren't useful cards in the present situation.
    #6.09 Unusual plays
    Sometimes there is the opportunity in a duel to do something that would
    normally be considered bad, or just weird, to make an imaginative play.
    Once you learn to think about all your options, these kind of things will
    become easier to spot. Some examples:
    (a) I've attacked with all my melee creatures, and I have a quick attack
    creature in hand that I could use to finish off the opponent. Trouble is all
    the spaces that could hit the opponent are occupied! To deal with this, use
    whatever means you have to kill your own creature in that spot so that you
    can play the quick attack creature and win. If it means you win the game, it
    doesn't matter what you do to your own creatures.
    (b) Similar situation to the above. The battleground is pretty packed out, and
    I need to try and get my last hit through with a quick attack creature in my
    hand. The opponent's defense is solid, except for one row with just a 2/2/4
    creature. I have in that row a 2/1/2 melee creature and a 3/0/3 shooter. I
    would usually attack with the shooter first, so that the melee creature can
    finish off the enemy and survive. But here I actually want my melee to die 
    because I need his space. So I attack with the melee first, he dies, then I
    finish off the enemy with the shooter. Now I can play my quick attack creature
    in the empty space.
    (c) In my hand I have Wandering Bard which fetches my unique creature. Trouble
    is, I've already drawn my unique. I notice I have in my hand Mass Grave, which
    requires me to put a card on top of my library to cast. If I put the unique on
    the library to cast it, I can then cast the Bard and search for the unique
    again. Doing things this way I have gained back the card disadvantage you
    usually get from Mass Grave.
    (d) I've activated Week of the Mercenaries, and a creature didn't come up on 
    top. I drew a card with my Hero, and it still didn't produce a creature. I must
    get a creature on top in order to win or my opponent will crush me next turn.
    I have Arcane Academy, which searches my library for a spell in my hand, but
    I know I have no spells left, I've used them all in the game. However, I can
    still cast it anyway because it allows me to shuffle my library after I have
    "searched". This gives me another chance to get a creature on top of the 
    #6.10 Events
    It is very important to be familiar with all the events in the game. Even if
    they are ones you don't plan to use yourself in decks, your opponent might and
    chances are they will occur in a game at some point. So you need to have an 
    idea how they work, and be ready to use them to your full advantage if they
    do come up. This is true both of activated events which give you another
    option, and ongoing events which may alter or restrict what you do. A really
    good opportunity may present itself from an opponent's event, and you don't
    want to miss it because you aren't paying much attention to opponent's events
    that come up, or aren't sure what they do or how they work. I've given 
    commentary to many of them throughout the guide- see sections 4.13 and 7.04L.
    You can see a full list of events here:
    For any that you don't already feel familiar with, click on them and have a
    good read. It may be worth making a deck using events you don't normally use
    just to play it against the AI in practice mode to get more comfortable with
    them. A good opponent will be using your events to their advantage, so you 
    must be doing the same.
    #7.00 More on deck building
    This section is for when you have got a good grasp of the basics of the game
    and have built up a decent collection of cards.  I advise beginners to 
    concentrate on section 4.00-4.13 until they feel ready to take it further than
    what is written there. I will cover the two non-starter factions here,
    Stronghold and Sanctuary, giving some basics about them, and recommended cards.
    Section 7.04 covers cards that I didn't mention as cards to look out for in
    section 4 because I didn't think they suited beginners, but which you may
    like to consider when you become more advanced.
    #7.01 General considerations
    These are some more things to think about when building any deck.
    #7.01A What is my overall strategy?
    Although every game will play out differently, you should have in mind the kind
    of situation you want to achieve with your deck. You should think about how
    your deck will win, and how it will deal with whatever the opponent may throw
    at you. Try to choose cards which work well together and back each other up
    rather than blocking each other's potential. When playing, watch out for cards
    which conflict in some way. If this is happening, you should probably remove
    one of them. Some examples of simple strategies:
    -Casting as many fast creatures as possible to rush the opponent
    -Producing fast resources to get out many threats early
    -Controlling the game early to build up to big creatures
    -Stealing creatures from the opponent
    -Gaining time advantage by returning your opponent's creatures to their hand
    -Using attack anywhere creatures to try and kill off everything
    You can create much more in-depth strategies than these as you get to know the
    card pool really well. But the point is to have some sort of plan for the deck
    rather than just sticking a load of good cards in it.
    Some strategies just won't work as well as you think they would or should. In
    those cases you can think about why they aren't working, and to see what changes
    you can make to address the problems you are having. Don't give up right away,
    every deck gets bad deals. And don't change too many cards at once, as it
    becomes harder to see what difference you have made. 
    Developing your own interesting strategy can be much more rewarding than going
    with a generic deck or copying ideas from others. Even if you don't win as 
    much, you will learn a lot and have fun too! Also, using a home-made deck 
    rather than a popular deck build gives you a level of advantage against 
    experienced players. They will be much less likely to predict what you are 
    going to do next, and are more likely to make a mistake.
    A deck can have more than one strategy. For example it may focus on fast
    creatures and forcing the opponent to discard key cards.
    #7.01B What Hero is right for my strategy?
    The Heroes break up very roughly into four categories. After each category I
    list the starting skils for Heroes in that category, for example 2/0/1 shows
    a starting might of 2, starting magic of 0 and starting destiny of 1. All 
    Heroes except the seekers will also have either an activated or ongoing
    ability. Non-Sanctuary Heroes come from Heroic Packs (1 guaranteed each pack)
    while Sanctuary Heroes come from Void Rising Packs (randomly). The special
    Heroes (bottom of the list) can only be gained from achievements or from buying
    decks with them in. On top of this, there is one new Hero for each of the five
    factions in the Herald of the Void expansion.
    -----SEEKERS 1/1/2, 20 life, 2 magic schools, no extra ability
    Cassandra, Seeker of Light (Haven)
    Garant, Seeker of Discord (Inferno)
    Seria, Seeker of the Lost Souls (Necropolis)
    Kat, Seeker of Freedom (Stronghold)
    Yukiko, Seeker of Honour (Sanctuary)
    These are balanced, with the highest overall skill values. Can work with most
    strategies, and finds fortunes easiest to use. These can also be obtained by
    buying the approprate deck from the shop.
    -----LORDS 1/1/1, 20 life, 2 magic schools, activated ability
    Sandalphon, Lord of Power (Haven)
    Belias, Lord of the Kennels (Inferno)
    Nergal, Lord of Pestilence (Necropolis)
    Kelthor, Lord of Fury (Stronghold)
    Ishuma, Lord of Dragons (Sanctuary)
    Balanced alternatives to seekers, with different magic schools. Trades the
    1 point of destiny for an activated ability. Can work with most strategies
    and are strong choices.
    The 5 new Herald of the Void Heroes are also lords. They have their own quite
    unusual 2 magic schools, and an expensive activated ability that costs 6.
    You may want them for their magic school mix, or to make use of the activated
    ability late in the game.
    -----CHAMPIONS 2/0/1 20 life, 1 magic school, activated or ongoing ability
    Siegfried, Champion of Faith (Haven) -ongoing
    Xorm, Champion of the Abyss (Inferno) -activated
    Fleshbane, Champion of the Misshapen (Necropolis) -ongoing
    Acamas, Champion of the Bloodhorn (Stronghold) -activated
    Takana Osore, Champion of the Tides (Sanctuary) -ongoing
    With only 1 magic school and 0 starting magic skill, these Heroes are usually
    best in decks with few or no spells. You may not raise magic skill at all,
    or perhaps just once for some level 1 spells or to cast magic creatures.
    These Heroes work best when focusing on creatures and fortunes. These kinds of
    decks are harder to build effectively in my experience than the previous two
    groups, so I recommend leaving these for a while. It is possible to use these
    Heroes to build a deck using magic, but you're usually better going with
    another Hero for that.
    -----INVOKERS 0/2/1, 18 life, 3 magic schools, activated ability
    Jezziel, Invoker of Hope
    Kal-Azaar, Invoker of Agony
    Mother Namtaru, Invoker of Death
    Shaar, Invoker of the Skies
    Kaiko, Invoker of the Depths
    There are without a doubt the hardest Heroes to use, so I recommend leaving
    them alone for a long time. With 0 might they struggle to get creatures out,
    especially when going second. These Heroes work best when focusing on magic,
    making use of the high 2 starting skill and 3 schools of magic to choose from.
    They are then usually backed up by some low requirement creatures and/or
    high level fortunes. These are often used in the "one turn kill" (OTK) 
    strategies which you will eventually see. They stall the game until they can
    pull off some combo and kill you in one go. Apart from this kind of strategy,
    playing with low ranking creature or none at all is very difficult. There 
    just aren't many cards that allow you to win without creatures. The most 
    successful strategy is often stealing your opponent's creatures, relying 
    less or not at all on your own.
    -----SPECIAL (varies) M=number of magic schools
    Kieran, Knight of Negation (Haven) 2/1/0, 20 life, activated , M=2
    Phrias, Prince of Annihilation (Inferno) 1/1/0, 20 life, activated, M=2
    Ariana of the Severed Fates (Necropolis) 1/2/0, 18 life, activated, M=3
    Crag Hack (Stronghold) 2/0/0, activated, M=1
    Akane, Mourner of Lost Memories (Sanctuary) 1/2/0, 20 life, activated, M=2
    These Heroes do not appear in any booster packs. All can be obtained by
    completing certain achievements:
    Kieran- Win 30 duels with each of the 5 factions. You can tell which factions
    you have already won 30 with, as you unlock their banners. These banners are 
    initially locked, and can be viewed/chosen in the profile screen. See section
    3.04. The very last 5 banners are new rewards for Herald of the Void, and the
    5 before these are the ones I am talking about.
    Phrias- Own 120 premium cards from the Void Rising set. These are the shiny
    ones which appear in premium boosters, and you have a chance to get them in
    standard boosters. Doesn't have to be 120 individual cards- in fact this would
    be impossible!
    Ariana- Own 5,000 cards.
    Crag Hack- Win 500 ranked duels. Practice games don't count.
    Akane- Own a copy of every card in the Void Rising set.
    Ariana and Crag also appear in pre-made decks in the shop.
    These lend themselves to a deck with no fortunes, typically using as many Week
    of Taxes events as possible. They then use their good starting skills in
    might and magic to concentrate on these areas, finding it easier to reach the
    higher level cards in both. They may use occasional 1 destiny fortunes,
    especially Ariana. When you get these Heroes, they are mostly strong choices. 
    Such decks are relatively easy to build. I have found Crag and Phrias to be the
    weakest, and require the most effort to make a successful deck.
    #7.01C How do I deal with my opponent's cards?
    You will almost always be facing creatures from your opponent. (There is one
    deck design that uses very few, but don't worry about that too much. You won't
    see it until you get above 1000 ELO most likely.) That means you should have
    some ways of dealing with your opponents creatures. As a standard, you should
    be able to kill or otherwise stall Dark Assassin. It is so powerful that if 
    you can't deal with it, you will probably lose in short order to anyone who
    gets one out. You won't see many to begin with, but as your ELO rating goes
    up you will encounter them more and more.
    Dark Assassin is a neutral creature costing 2 resources, with 4 attack and 2
    life. It deals 1 damage to its controller when it attacks. Because it is 
    neutral any deck you face can use it, and at 2 resources it comes out fast. And
    because dead creatures can't retaliate, it takes something with 5 life to even
    survive its attack while trying to block it. Therefore you need something quick
    and reliable which can wipe out an Assassin before he rips you into shreds. It
    should preferably not cost more than 2 resources. Here are some examples. 
    The ones you can use will depend on your Hero. 
    Very good (kills Assassin outright):
    Fire Bolt (fire magic)
    Sunburst (light magic)
    Earthquake (earth magic)
    Teleport (primal magic) [requires a creature with 2+ attack]
    Mass Grave (Necropolis fortune)
    Sacrificial Altar (Stronghold fortune) [requires a creature with 2+ life]
    Kal-Azaar's activated ability [but this will slow down your skill raising]
    A cheap spell that immobilises (such as Slow) combined with Ishuma's activated
    Not quite as good (will allow at least one attack before Assassin dies):
    Eternal Winter (water magic)
    Agony (dark magic)
    Holy Praetorian (Haven creature)
    If you don't have access to any of these, at least make sure you can either
    stall the Assassin somehow or deal with him when you have 3 resources. If you
    think I am being too paranoid here, wait until you get your first caning at
    the hand of this little guy!
    On top of these ridiculous considerations is how you're going to deal with
    bigger creatures too. Are you going to return them to the opponent's hand?
    Or kill them with a big damage spell? Try and ignore them and life rush
    your opponent? Steal them?
    You should also think about whether ongoing spells are a problem for your deck.
    At the moment, I generally do not include cards for dealing with these, or
    just put in one copy in case of a desperate situation. Many duels will end 
    without a single one appearing, or causing any trouble if it does. But if you
    can think of particular ones which could ruin your strategy, then it's 
    probably best to pack some dispels. It is more likely that your opponent will
    cause you trouble now that Herald of the Void is out, as it has several very 
    nasty unique ongoing spells. 
    #7.01D What maxout is appropriate for my strategy?
    See section 4.01 if you haven't already read about maxout. It is the number of
    times you need to increase your skills in order to be able to cast anything in
    your deck. 
    If you are using a basic Hero, you can generally afford to be more lenient with
    your maxout. Because you have no alternate ability to activate, it is easier
    to focus on raising your skills. The same is true of Heroes with an ongoing 
    extra ability, as you won't need to use a turn to activate it. As a rough
    guide, 6 is a good starting point.
    But if your Hero has an extra activated ability, which you plan to use with any
    regularity, you should consider cutting your maxout down somewhat. This allows
    you more flexibility to use this ability without slowing down your development
    too much. You may want to drop your maxout to 5. The more regularly you plan
    to use the Hero ability, the more this is important.
    Think about how long you expect the game to last with your deck. If it is
    explosive and you intend to win fast or burn out trying, then a lower maxout
    makes sense. You probably won't reach your higher cards in time otherwise.
    If you intend to drag out the game for some time by stalling and killing things
    with mass removal, you will have more time to raise skills so a higher maxout
    makes sense.
    There's no right or wrong answer. It comes down to personal preference and
    experience. If you find you are maxing out too quickly and require more
    powerful cards, raise it by 1 and then test it out for several games. If you
    find you're not getting time to get to your big cards, try dropping it by 1
    and then test it out. Don't alter it by more than 1 at a time, as such a 
    drastic change will make it hard to see what effect you are having and you
    may lose the focus of your deck.
    #7.02 Stronghold
    This is a faction which appears in both the base set and expansions. Once
    you have a Stronghold Hero, you can make a deck of this faction if you have
    enough cards to match that Hero. To make a good deck though, you need more
    than just "enough" cards, you need a good selection of the strong cards. I will
    discuss the creatures and fortunes here; for spells refer to the relevant
    sections from 4.06-4.12 for the schools of magic your Hero has.
    Stronghold has an unusual style of play, in that it benefits from its creatures
    getting killed. Usually this is a bad thing, and it still is normally, but
    Stronghold generates useful side effects from it. These are sometimes so useful
    that you actually want to kill your own creature!
    It features many creatures with the Enrage ability. This is the core feature of
    Stronghold and what most of its decks are built around one way or another.
    Creatures with Enrage have a number after it, for example Enrage 1. The number
    tells you how many Enrage counters the creature gets each time one of your
    creatures dies. (It must go to the graveyard to count, not returned to your
    hand.) One creature getting killed can trigger several Enrage creatures, giving
    them all counters according to their Enrage number. A very popular Hero for
    this strategy is Kelthor- he is my personal favourite. He has an activated
    ability which does damage to an enemy creature based on the number of Enrage
    counters on one of your creatures.
    Enrage gives the creature an extra point of attack and retaliation per Enrage
    counter. This bonus remains until the creature next attacks; after this the
    counters are removed. There are other ways of adding counters too other than
    your creatures getting killed. Certain cards add counters directly to your
    This gives Stronghold a very odd playing strategy, but one which I find very
    interesting. You should generally cast any Enrage creatures you have before
    doing anything that adds counters, including getting one of your creatures
    killed. That way you get the maximum benefit from the death. The creature may
    die because you use it for Sacrificial Altar, because you run it into a big
    creature and it dies to retaliation, or if you are desperate and you kill it
    with a standard spell like Fire Bolt! This last is usually only for setting up
    a finishing kill turn. Make sure you attack with any creatures you intend to
    kill first, to get the most out of them. 
    So in a turn you may attack with a creature, then cast Sacrificial Altar 
    killing it, to remove a blocker. This pumps up your Enrage creatures. You may 
    then run a small creature into an opponent's big one to soften it up, and it 
    dies to retaliation damage, putting more counters on your creatures. Then you
    could use Kelthor's abililty to deal damage based on your creature with the
    most enrage counters to the softened up enemy to finish it off. Then finally
    you attack with all your Enrage creatures for massive damage. As you can see,
    the order you do things is more important than normal with Stronghold. 
    Here are a selection of cards to watch out for to build a good first Stronghold
    deck. I would recommend concentrating on either a creature/magic build or
    creature/destiny. Either way, lean towards a high number of creatures.  It is 
    possible to just raise might, and only use spells and fortunes needing the base
    amount for your Hero. Cards marked as * are what I consider to be especially 
    good cards. Cards maked with [VR] are from the Void Rising set, [HV] are from
    Herald of the Void.
    Centaur Archer*: This has really good stats for a 3 resource shooter, he 
    shames the industry standard, Sea Elf Archer. Good for most strategies.
    Crusher*: Although his stats are not great, I feel he is a key card because of
    his magic resist ability. Most decks rely on spells to control creatures, and
    he is very hard to kill with them. So if the opponent manages to kill lots of
    your other creatures with spells, they are left with a hugely enraged Crusher
    to deal with. He is also great to put in front of a magic creature, because
    they won't be able to do him a lot of damage. Keep him out of combat with 
    non-magic creatures though. Against them he is poor and won't last long unless
    he can kill them off cleanly.
    Dreamreaver: I don't normally recommend 5 might units, but in Stronghold there
    is more scope for going up the scale. This is a nice way to get even more
    Enrage creatures, and he is very sturdy and reliable. I have found having 2
    or 3 of these as your top unit works well in putting real pressure on the
    Dreamwalker*: This is what I consider to be the key Enrage unit. He is cheap
    enough to get out early and cause some trouble while benefiting from any
    casualties you pick up. If you already have some Warchanters around, he will
    pick up steam fast.
    Goblin Scout*: The most efficient and aggressive creature available, he puts
    pressure on the opponent right away. Unlike the 2 attack 1 resource creatures
    from other factions, he can be defended with a melee/flyer when threatened
    by an opponent's melee/flyer. 
    Pao Deathseeker*: Although neutral, I had to mention him here as he is even
    more ridiculously good than normal. His death at end of turn will give you
    Enrage counters, and with Week of the Dead he doesn't even have to wait until
    end of turn.
    Ranaar Harpy*: The only cheap flyer, it is tough and versatile. Works great
    for early pressure or guarding a Goblin Scout.
    Ranaar Mauler: The only cheap Enrage creature. Sadly he has 0 power when not
    pumped up. I feel that if you use these, you must also use Blackskull
    Warchanters, or else he just doesn't have enough punch. I also personally
    would only use him with the Hero Kelthor. He can benefit from other fast 
    creatures you play that get killed, making the opponent think about whether 
    to kill this first. If you're using Kelthor, you can leave this to collect 
    Enrage counters without attacking, so you can use Kelthor's ability
    to kill creatures. Attacking with him will lose all the counters. In
    this case it's probably not worth it unless you're desperate for the damage.
    Tainted Orc*: An absolute must-have- luckily he is a common. He has huge stats
    for his cost, and is really hard for the opponent to get rid of. He can be put
    down in front of most creatures and it's fairly safe that they aren't going to
    be able to do enough to take him out. Or if you're winning, put him unopposed
    and watch the opponent scramble to get something that could stop him.
    Blackskull Clan Warlord* [VR]: He is absolutely huge and very hard to stop. He
    gives one of the few reasons to ever raise your might above 6! With high life
    and retaliation, taking him down is hard. If you're going to raise your might
    in a turn, remember to do it before attacking with him to increase his damage.
    Blackskull Warchanter* [VR]: An excellent cheap way to get lots of Enrage
    counters going. Only use if you are playing with a large amount of Enrage 
    units. 3 life is high for a 1 resource creature too. He won't normally be
    doing damage but with the backup of spells or events, he may chip in. The
    unusual 2 might requirement shouldn't ever be a problem, even when going first
    you can raise might to 2 to cast him. This is most likely what you would be 
    doing anyway with your skills. Just move him out the way if he is threatened.
    Blackskull Vulture Rider* [VR]: He fits in with the "kill your own stuff"
    strategy. On a turn when you kill some of your own creatures and/or your 
    opponent's, he can be very cheap or even free to cast. There are not too many
    flyers in Stronghold, so that is a handy addition. And he is still reasonably 
    good even for the full cost, although not fantastic.
    Blackskull Centaur* [HV]: His stats are small, but his strength lies in his
    Swift ability. This allows him to move around each turn, picking off small
    creatures or finishing off big ones. It also allows him to attack a creature
    threatening him, and then move away to safety. And when you are going for the
    kill, he can move to an undefended row and damage the opponent directly. I have
    found he works great with Kelthor, as you can combine his damage with Fire Bolt,
    Lighting Strike, Inner Fire etc. If you desperately need a blocker, you can
    attack first, then move him in front of the biggest threat. Or you can move
    him so that you avoid dangerous formations (see section 6.04).
    Blackskull Shredder* [HV]: This is similar to the Centaur above, but is even 
    more dramatic because it can also attack right after you deploy it. Again the
    stats are low, but he can rush in and finish something off right away, or do
    some damage to the opponent if you need it. Then he can rush around like the
    Centaur in following turns. They work well together as a team, allowing you to
    gang up and deal 4 damage. If you need to kill the opponent with damage but
    only have one unopposed row, you can pull some tricks with these guys. Say
    I have 2 of them in hand, I can cast the first one into the row and attack
    with him. I then use the Swift ability to move him out of the way, and then
    cast another one in the same spot and attack again, and so on. If I have a
    Pao Deathseeker, I can finally cast him too for a massive finish, all down
    one row.
    Bloodfrenzied Wyvern [HV]: Most 5 might creatures are not quite worth the
    resources or the stretch in your maxout, but this one I feel does hit the 
    mark. An insane 8 health makes it really hard to kill, coupled with a 
    huge retaliation once it gets some counters. If you are going to be killing
    any of your opponent's creatures, make sure you cast this first so that it
    picks up as many counters as possible. You can use Kelthor's ability to deal
    damage based on its Enrage counters, but it doesn't actually count as a
    "creature with Enrage". So things that add counters to Enrage creatures
    and so on won't benefit this. 
    War Oliphant* [HV]: This is the highest health creature for 3 resources in
    the game- that can attack! I think of it as a mini Tainted Orc, and it will
    be able to block almost any melee or flyer creature effectively, especially
    in the early game. If it gets blocked, you can often trade blows with the
    blocker and come out on top because of the huge 7 health. If you have put
    down a small shooter early and it is threatened by an opponent's melee/flyer,
    this is a great way to defend it.
    Blood Shaman Hut*: This gives you a way of boosting your creatures to get
    through big blockers, and also a really cheap way of extending your damage
    for a quick kill. You lose card advantage by playing it, but the tempo you
    gain is worth it when played at the right time. It's also a way of forcing
    Week of the Mercenaries to behave.
    Sacrificial Altar*: Gives away card advantage, so make it count. It can deal a
    huge amount of damage for one resource, and with multiple Enrage creatures out
    the kill on your creature will benefit you. Usually it is best to attack with
    the creature you want to sacrifice first, unless it would take retaliation 
    damage which would lower the damage this card can do.
    Surprise Attack [VR]: If you are looking to raise your destiny, this is a great
    way of having some creature control. Your creatures are typically huge, so this
    will probably wipe out or finish off just about anything. 
    Week of the Dead*: Not normally a very useful card, but in Stronghold it is
    very powerful. The ability to kill your own creature can be crucial in some
    situations, and the added resource you get is just a bonus. Use it carefully,
    when you can give maximum Enrage tokens by the kill.
    Week of the Mercenaries*: You are likely to have a high proportion of creatures
    and this combines extremely well with that. It gives you access to more ways
    to kill enemy creatures by punching through, and to go for big finishes.
    Week of the Tamed Spirits [VR]: It is possible to make a completely non-magic
    creature deck making use of many of the new great HV creatures. This generally
    abandons the enrage strategy, but has the bonus of using this event to cripple
    any deck relying on magic creatures, which is most decks.
    #7.03 Sanctuary
    This faction and most of its Heroes are only available from Void Rising Packs. 
    It is a new faction that was created for that expansion. It has two main 
    focuses, Honour and Outmanoeuvre. 
    Honour always has a number associated with it, for example "Honour 2". An 
    Honour creature gives a bonus equal to this number to each adjacent creature's
    attack and retaliation. Diagonals do not count, and enemy creatures are not 
    buffed. To take advantage of this, it is good to set your creatures up around
    where you are going to cast the Honour creature. Even if you haven't drawn 
    one yet, you may do by the time you've set up. For example, if I put my first 
    melee creature in row 1, I would put my next one in row 3. Then I could cast an
    Honour creature in row 2 between them, and they would both get boosted. I can 
    do the same by casting a shooter in the row above or below my melee creature.
    I then cast the Honour creature in front of the shooter buffing both. Be 
    careful though, as these setups make a perfect target for a Fireball.
    Outmanoeuvre applies only when the creature enters the battleground. This can
    either be when you cast it, or put it into play in other ways such as with
    Ressurection. You pick one enemy creature, and you can move it to any other
    valid position. This means a melee creature must stay on the front line, and
    a shooter on the back. If there are no available slots, you cannot move that
    creature. You do not have to move any creatures at all, if you would rather
    leave them where they are, click the cross to the top-right of your Hero
    and the ability will be cancelled. Your creature will just enter play as usual.
    Outmanoeuvre plays a huge part in the strategy of Sanctuary. The two main uses
    are moving creatures out of the way so that you can attack the opponent, and
    moving them in front of your creatures so that you can attack and hopefully
    kill them. If the opponent casts a creature in front of one of yours, you can
    get a double whammy by attacking it, then playing an Outmanoeuvre creature. You
    move the enemy in front of another of your creatures, then attack it again.
    Generally I would suggest using Outmanoeuvre to kill creatures early in the
    game, and using it to get free attacks later when you feel you are close to 
    Some of the Sanctuary creatures have the new ability Hypnotize. This stops the
    opponent moving any creature that is in the same row as a Hypnotize creature.
    They can still use other effects to move them though, such as Teleport. This
    makes it harder for them to get around your creatures. My favourite Hero is
    Ishuma, as it can make use of the Hypnotize abilities to deal damage to
    immobilized creatures. Hypnotize is also useful for trapping small utility
    creatures like Tithe Collector, so that they can't do their usual trick of
    running away when threatened.
    I recommend a creature heavy build, going up to 5 might if you have worthwhile
    creatures at that level. This can be backed up by lower level spells and/or
    Here is a selection of cards I recommend for building a deck. Ones I mark with
    a * are ones I consider particularly good. For spells, see the relevant
    sections from 4.06-4.12 for your chosen Hero. Cards maked with [VR] are from
    the Void Rising set, [HV] are from Herald of the Void.
    Coral Priestess* [VR]: The cheapest Outmanoeuvre creature. She is essential for
    taking out early creatures by moving them in front of the creatures you have
    already got out.
    Kappa* [VR]: This has very high life and retaliation, meaning you can safely
    put it in front of small/medium creatures and it's unlikely they can break
    through him for several turns. With a melee/flyer they may not even want to
    attack him, as the retaliation could put them in a position to die on your
    turn from his attack.
    Kenshi* [VR]: Although he is weak, he makes those around him very strong. This
    is the highest cost Honour creature I would generally recommend using. If you
    have 3 creatures ready in place, he can immediately offer a 6 damage increase
    that turn.
    Kirin [VR]: On his own he is only OK, but along with Outmanoeuvre creatures
    he can be nasty. Try and see the best way you can set up a creature so as to 
    affect as many creatures as possible with the blast. This may mean moving one 
    in front of him to connect with others nearby, or moving one alongside so that
    it gets hit as well. Note that changing his attack value in any way does not 
    change the damage of the focused blast. Also the blast damage isn't combat 
    damage so melee guard won't stop it. Focused blast never hurts your own
    Naga Tide Master* [VR]: A brutally powerful shooter which also has the
    Outmanoeuvre ability. Well worth the unusual step of raising to 5 might to be
    able to use her.
    Nyorai Sairensa* [VR]: If you are lucky enough to get her, she is the only 4
    resource Outmanoeuvre creature, with the added benefit of being harder to
    stop thanks to her special ability. The opponent can still move stuff in front
    of her- they just can't deploy them. She is also the only melee outmanoeuvre
    Pearl Priestess [VR]: A smaller Naga Tide Master, but with the bonus of
    Hypnotize. Overall I'd say this is worse than Tide Master, but there is room 
    for both in a deck and Ishuma can make good use of the Hypnotize.
    Shanriya Guard* [VR]: A good creature on its own, one which the opponent
    won't want to block because the blocker will get frozen and hacked up each
    turn until it is dead. But you can make the opponent block it by moving their
    creatures in front of it with an Outmanoeuvre.
    Shark Guard* [VR]: Like Inferno and Necropolis, it's the most efficient and
    fast high-damage attacker. Crucial for any Outmanoeuvre strategy, and to set up
    quickly for an Honour creature.
    Shinje Warrior* [HV]: This is an alternative to Shanriya Guard and Kappa. It
    is more defensive than the Guard, so which you should use depends on your
    overall strategy. Compared to Kappa, it is easier to kill with spells but
    against creatures it is always guaranteed to take down at least one creature
    with it. It poses a problem to Necro, which is very popular at the moment.
    Necro relies on lots of low attack creatures that stick around a long time,
    so it will usually take two creatures to finish this off without additional
    cards. Note that even if a creature kills this cleanly, the attacker will
    still get killed. That is the strength of this card.
    Snow Maiden [VR]: Not great stats, but 4 health is reasonably high, and you
    can trap a tricky little creature early on with it. Remember that this isn't
    a magic creature, even though the picture looks suspiciously like it is to me!
    Spring Spirit* [VR]: This is what you always want to get out when you hit 2
    resources. Very strong stats, and unusually it is a magic creature. This can
    be a good or bad thing, depending on the situation. Great for getting ready for
    Outmanoeuvre creatures, to provide a beating.
    Yuki-Onna [VR]: The 5 might level has a lot of good potential creatures for
    Sanctuary. This is very tough, and holds creatures still while it shoots them
    to pieces. Like Snow Maiden, it's not a magic creature! Tell me that picture
    doesn't look magic! I would generally recommend using Pearl Priestess or
    Naga Tide Master for the Outmanoeuvre strategy, but until you have access to
    enough of them, or if you prefer a different strategy, these will be fine.
    Wanizame* [VR]: The cheapest Honour creature, and it's good. Great stats, and
    a nice durable 5 health. He can have a big impact on the game relatively early
    on. It is often a good idea to prepare your first creatures in a configuration
    that this creature can fit into if/when you can cast him.
    Naga Yokujin [HV]: If you are playing any Hero other than Ishuma, this is
    generally a better choice that Snow Maiden, swapping the hypnotize for bigger
    stats. However, I have found that if you play with Ishuma, you will really
    miss the hypnotise ability which allows you to use Ishuma's 2 damage, so I 
    would recommend holding on to your Maidens.
    Kabuki Tei [HV]: This is a variant of Wanizame, with different casting
    requirements too. The 2 destiny favours a fortune deck, or Yukiko. I personally
    prefer Wanizame in general to this, just because of the extra attack power.
    But you could include both in a deck, especially if using Takana. Kabuki's
    ability to return your own creature can be handy, as a way of getting an
    injured creature back to cast again. It works especially well with
    Nyorai Sairense, allowing you to use her Outmanouvre again.
    Stream Singer [HV]: Although this is a cheap unit, you would almost never want
    to cast this early on. The point of the card is to hold back in your hand
    to deal with an annoying ongoing spell or fortune at a critical moment. So if
    you are about to kill the opponent and they drop a Stone Shield thinking it
    will save them, you cast this and return it to their hand, allowing you to get
    your damage in. Or against a stall player, you can return their Altar of
    Shadows or Wasteland to allow you to ignore it for the turn. However, if the 
    opponent doesn't happen to be using any ongoing spells/fortunes, or none that
    he cares about you bouncing, this can be a fairly useless card. But at least
    it is a creature. It's a gamble whether to include it so it depends on how 
    much you expect to see, or worry about, such ongoing cards. It can also be used
    to return your own ongoing cards to your hand (for example, to move Bless
    The Frozen Maze [VR]: A way of keeping your creature advantage, stopping the
    opponent getting to attack back with 2 of their creatures. Hopefully this
    should buy you enough time to hack their creatures up. If they are also
    Hypnotized, they can't run away from your creatures either!
    Underwater Fortress [VR]: I have found this useful, mainly as a way of getting
    out even more Outmanoeuvre creatures. Unless there is something like Week of
    Taxes affecting things, this basically lets you cast another copy of a creature
    you already have, for the same cost (if that cost is 2 or more). Often getting
    another Coral Priestess is good, to keep on killing the opponent's creatures.
    If you are on the defensive, you can fetch another Kappa to help hold the fort.
    You generally want to cast what you fetch right away to make use of the 
    discounted price. But sometimes you may want to use this when you have 2 free
    resources in your turn as insurance against your creatures being wiped out.
    That is the downside with this card: no creatures to copy (or worth copying)
    makes this useless. So getting a spare creature into your hand can be 
    Yukiko's Shrine [VR]: A way of catching up, and since you may well be using
    up to 5 resource creatures, you can save an awful lot by using this. For 6
    resources you could get out 3 Naga Tide Masters for example, hopefully causing
    a lot of kills by all the Outmanoeuvring that this brings. 
    Whirlpool [VR]: This becomes a free spell, unless it is weighed down by Week
    of Taxes. It can be used to recast a creature to give it back maximum health
    or remove spells/counters from it, and/or take advantage of its Outmanoeuvre
    ability again. Don't use too many of these, as they are quite situational.
    Battle Trance* [HV]: This is pretty outrageous, allowing you access to any card
    in your deck for the cost of 1 card disadvantage. Later in the game you can
    cast this, then right away activate your Hero's ability to draw a card (or use
    another card draw fortune) so you can use it right away. Or you can prepare for
    the next turn by setting up the card you need, knowing you will draw it next.
    Make sure you don't use anything that shuffles your library after casting this!
    If you desperately need to get your Week of the Mercenaries activated, you can
    ensure this by picking a creature. I'd advise generally saving this for the
    mid/late game, as the card manipulation is usually not worth missing out on
    getting out your vital early creatures.
    Hall of Fortune* [HV]: I think this is a fantastic card for any deck that can
    support 2 destiny. I would say you generally want to use it as soon as you have
    1 resource spare in a turn, to help you stock up for the next turn. But when
    you have a lot of resources later on to play with, it can be a good thing to
    cast first, allowing you a choice of cards, and then more possibilities for 
    using your resources that turn. As with the other fortunes that shuffle your
    library, this can be used as another way of trying to get a creature on top
    of your deck for Week of the Mercenaries.
    Week of the Mercenaries*: With a deck full of creatures, this is always useful.
    In the mid/late game, this helps you take down bigger creatures with your
    Outmanoeuvre antics.
    Week of the Wild Spirits* [VR]: This deck will often have a higher than usual
    amount of magic creatures. So this event can help them deal lethal damage after
    moving something in front of them with Outmanoeuvre. 
    #7.04 Further spells and starter faction cards
    This section will cover the good cards which I didn't mention in section 4.
    This is mainly because of their requirements, making them difficult to use in
    a starter deck. Some need a more focused deck build. Only read this 
    section when you have a reasonable collection of cards and feel you are ready
    to incorporate more cards and strategies. Because of the higher cost of most
    of these cards, this will generally mean raising your other skills less than
    you normally would (see section 4.01 for guidelines).
    The other cards I don't mention I don't recommend using at all. But of course
    you should experiment and you may find they work for you better than they have
    for me.
    #7.04A Inferno faction
    Doom Bringer: He is reasonably tough, but not good as a general creature to
    include in any given deck. Certainly not in a very fast deck. He can work in
    a more control based deck, where you look to maintain a presence over time and
    keep your opponent in check rather than kicking them to pieces right away. He
    works especially well with the Week of the Dead event, letting you kill him
    yourself for just 1 resource. If you catch the opponent over-reaching and you
    can pull off this combo, you can get a massive card advantage. If you're 
    waiting for the event to show up, you can still use him as a roadblock the 
    opponent won't want to kill. But don't generally cast him if you are in a
    better position than the opponent, it's too risky.
    Chaos Lacerator [HV]: This guy is a bit crazy, and I wouldn't recommend using
    him to begin with. But I have found he has a lot of interesting uses, and have
    built decks which feature 4 of these effectively. You will quickly see that
    if he attacks a creature in the front row, he is going to die. That puts a lot
    of people off this card, and I understand that. But the bonus is that when he
    dies, it is your turn so the opponent has to discard a card at random, as well
    as doing some damage to the blocker and any adjacent creatures. So you haven't
    lost out on cards, just on the resources to set him up. He works great with
    Teleport, allowing you to pick a spot to make great use of his Area Blast.
    This ability makes blocking tricky for the opponent, but they will generally
    adopt the zig-zag formation that works against sweep attack and Fireballs.
    I have been using this in combination with Week of the Dead, so I can kill
    him whenever I want on my turn to cause a discard. This allows me to control
    the flow of the game, and I can decide when he is most important as a creature
    and when I would rather use him as a "spell" to discard. He is also useful
    when you draw too many melee creatures (often a problem in Inferno) because
    you can swap him off for one of your opponents card (with a suicide attack or
    Week of the Dead) giving more space for your other melees. He is tricky to
    use, but worth it if you find the right kind of deck. 
    Hellfire Bloater [HV]: Be careful about the odd requirements here, it needs
    2 magic skill. That makes it tricky to use early when going first, as it will
    hold you back from raising your might. But this doesn't have to be cast early-
    it will be useful at most points in the game against a creature deck. Sadly it
    will be virtually useless against stall decks, so is a gamble to include from
    that point of view. This is a more defensive and controlling creature so it
    lends itself to slower decks, but I have found I can also use it in rush decks.
    I have been using Week of the Dead as a way to kill it when I want to, allowing
    me to use it like a big Sunburst. If you are desperate you could also kill it
    with a Fire Bolt to set it off. A lot of the time though it can be used to
    take the heat off you by getting in the way of a small/medium creature and
    chasing it around to stop it attacking you.
    Lurker in the Dark [HV]: I have found this very effective, but I would only
    recommend using him with Xorm. With any other Hero, the 4 might requirement is
    too high for him to come out very quickly. With Xorm, if you go first you can
    raise your might to 3 and then on your second turn to 4 and be able to cast 
    him. Going second, you can cast him on your third turn. If the opponent happens
    to have doubled up quick creatures against you thinking you can't do anything 
    to stop that, you can drop this in front of them and halt them both. If they
    move them away, you have to judge depending on the situation whether it's 
    more important to attack and deal damage to the opponent, or to keep chasing
    those small creatures to stop them attacking you. This depends on both your
    life totals, and who has more creatures out. The better your position, the
    more likely you want to attack directly and go for the kill.
    Void Arbiter [HV]: This is a shooter which is tricky to cast and also has
    bad stats. So it's abilities better be good! The magic channel is handy, but
    its real strength is in its card-draw halting ability. It changes the game so
    that apart from the card(s) you draw at the start of your turn (things like
    Blind Brother can make you draw more cards) you cannot draw any cards. So both
    Hero's card draw abilities become useless, and any cards such as Bonfire or
    Stone of Enlightenment will not draw you any cards. They will still do any
    other effects (for example Bonfire will still add 4 resources). You want to be
    very careful about when you cast this, because it affects you just as much as
    the opponent. So you usually want to use it when you have a superior board
    position, and more cards in your hand. You then use this to "lock down" your
    opponent to 1 card a turn, so that they cannot draw their way out of trouble.
    It will also be a trump card against stall decks which rely on using loads of
    fortunes and events to draw cards. This is really tricky to use, so leave this
    one for a long time. I think it would work best with Dhamiria because she has
    access to Earthquake and Insect Swarm to reset the board prior to playing this,
    along with her discard ability to gain hand size advantage late game. Don't use
    this creature with Garant, as late game you'll have nothing useful to do with
    your Hero ability after casting this.
    Void Rift [HV]: I'm still trying to get my head around this card. It has the
    potential to be very powerful in the right situation, but it can also turn
    out to be an overcosted Twist of Fate. It will work wonders against stall decks
    which are likely to have duplicates of the Altar of Shadows or Stone Shield 
    that is on the field holding you back, allowing you to attack that turn and
    know no more are coming soon. If you have used a Twist of Fate recently, you
    will have a decent idea of what is in their hand and when this is going to
    work best. For example if they have 2 of a big creature in their hand that they
    are likely to cast soon when you cast the Twist, leave them both and choose a
    different card to be discarded. Then wait until they cast one of the big 
    creatures, and hit them with the Void Rift to kill both at once. Make sure
    they won't have enough resources to cast both of them at once, or else they
    will be able to get around you doing this! You can combine this card well with
    anything that returns creatures to the opponent's hand (Town Portal, Broken
    Bridge etc). If you have enough resources, you can return 1 of a creature
    the opponents has duplicates of on the field, then use Void Rift to kill them
    all. This is a very hard card to use effectively and to build a deck around,
    so I'd leave it alone for a long time. I feel it would work best with the new
    hero Dhamaria where you will be looking at the opponent's hand frequently
    later on in the game. Works well in combination with Minor Recall!
    #7.04B Necropolis faction
    The Banshee*: Easily the best 6 might creature, and the only one that is 
    regularly used in competitive decks in my experience. It takes out your 
    opponent's best creature (or clears the way for damage) and is good at 
    blocking another. If you can find ways to get it back to your hand from the
    battleground or the  graveyard, you can use its kill ability again when you 
    re-cast it. There is a horrible combo where you sacrifice this to Necromatic
    Transfer to deploy Atropos. You can then get back this Banshee, plus another
    creature, ready to cast again. 
    Seria's Legion*: You will need several creatures in your deck that you have
    4 copies of to make this work well. It can be devastating, generating card 
    advantage and allowing you to control the flow of the game. Classic choices 
    are Pao Deathseeker and Banshee, although it will work reasonably well with 
    any decent creature.
    Seria's Last Order [HV]: Firstly, note the unusual 4 might requirement. This
    is a powerful new way of getting another use from your creatures. It will work
    with any creature, although it will be rather expensive for the damage it will
    inflict. Its most effective use is with a creature with an entering play
    ability. You then get to both use that ability, and attack with the creature.
    The new Decay Spitter is my personal favourite here, it can be devastating.
    You get to put 2 poison counters on something, then attack something else for
    2 damage and it gets a poison counter. Also Banshee and Atropos work really
    well. For sheer damage, Dark Assassin gives the most efficient punch. You can
    get around the drawback of your creature being banished by either killing it
    to return it to the graveyard (for example by Week of the Dead) or even better
    by returning it to your hand so you can use it again (Town Portal, Broken
    Bridge etc). 
    #7.04C Haven faction
    Wolf Justicar [VR]: This is usually used in decks where retaliation is used
    heavily to your advantage, with cards like Truce of Elrath. Multiples have
    a stacking effect! In a standard deck it's not quite worth it, I feel- it's
    annoying rather than efficient.
    Cassandra's Imperial Devotion: This is the only card that heals your Hero that
    I think is worth using. It heals a significant amount, and also generates a
    lot of resources. Try to time it so there is the maximum amount of creatures
    in play, and when the extra resources are going to be most useful. Remember
    you cannot heal your Hero above its starting life total.
    Prison: This is mainly used in stalling decks, as a way of completely shutting
    down the opponent's turn. It is best used when the opponent has little or
    nothing in play, so that they can't even do much attacking. It can be used in
    aggro decks as a way of shutting down the opponent's defenses for a turn to
    make it harder for them to stop you.
    Truce of Elrath [VR]: A very specific card for decks built around creatures
    with high retaliation. Usually Wolf Justicar is used as a way of pumping this
    really high. Most decks don't focus too much on high retaliation, so it makes
    their creatures go tiny as well as pumping yours up. Note that once this is
    in effect, trying to increase a creature's attack value in the normal way won't
    work. You need to boost the retaliation to see a difference in the attack
    #7.04D Neutral faction
    Helexian Librarian: A useful card for control decks to be able to cycle through
    cards, giving them more chances to find the ones they need. At the same time it
    provides a blocker for a turn. It can also be used in Enrage focused decks to 
    get Enrage counters without losing card advantage.
    Wandering Bard: As you can only have one copy of a unique creature in your
    deck, this gives you a way of effectively having more copies. However, once
    you have drawn the unique creature, extra Bards are going to be redundant
    except as puny attackers or blockers. So I don't advise having too many in
    your deck, unless it is really important you find your unique.
    Blind Brother [VR]: A great way for control decks to continually gain card
    advantage. You can move him around when he is threatened.
    Void Wraith [VR]: This is useful in extremely aggressive decks, and particulary
    in decks with direct damage, usually Inferno. It puts the opponent in a 
    difficult situation: do they kill it, take 3 damage and risk getting killed
    by your Altar of Destruction cards? Or do they let it live, and either have
    to babysit it with their creatures wasting their time, or let it damage them?
    Watch out for the hero Nergal: he can put a poison counter in this and it will
    die in your turn instead of his. You can force the opponent to take the damage
    by causing it to die in their turn- for example using Immolation.
    Altar of Asha*: A tricky card that causes you card disadvantage, but can be
    very powerful in the right situation. It can be useful in Enrage decks because
    your dead creature will pump up your Enrage guys. Often it is good to get back
    something with an immediate effect like a Pao Deathseeker that can attack 
    again, or a Banshee to kill another creature.
    Altar of Shadows: This is used in stalling decks, particularly one-turn-kill
    decks, as a way of buying time. Unless the opponent can get rid of this, they
    won't be able to deal you any damage in their turn apart from direct damage
    Campfire*: An absolute must for any deck that is going to raise to 3+ destiny.
    Time its use so that the extra resource is as useful as possible. Later in the
    game, or if you are desperate, use it to just get another card and give
    yourself more options without using up resources. It's also another way to
    manipulate the top card of your library for things like Week of the
    Crystal Cavern: The ultimate way of generating large amounts of resources. On
    its own this is not going to work very well until you get late enough in
    the game to have a big resource pool. This is because the cost of the
    card is taken off before doubling your resources. This makes it pointless to
    cast unless you have at least 9 resources, otherwise you will end up with
    the same or less resources than you started with. Use your Gold Piles and
    Campfires to first to build up a big resource pool, then use this for 
    maximum effect.
    Crystal of Power: The only use I have seen for this card is in combination with
    cheap mass removal cards like Earthquake and Insect Swarm. It will then
    act as a copy of the card you cast, giving you effectively more in your deck.
    Note that creatures with Magic Resist apply their reduction before the damage
    is doubled, so Insect Swarm's 3 damage is reduced to 1, before being then
    doubled to 2.
    Stone of Enlightenment: Almost essential for any deck that goes as high as
    4 destiny. This is very efficient and offers immediate card advantage, as long
    as the cost doesn't mean you lose a lot of momentum in board position. Best
    used in the middle/late game when you have established some control of the
    game. Or if you are desperately looking for a certain card!
    Wasteland: This is mainly used in heavy control decks which aim to stop the
    opponent doing very much, particularly by stopping them casting creatures.
    This is effective after having killed them all or returned them to the
    opponent's hand. It can also be used by aggro decks as a way of stopping the
    opponent's development and allowing you to win without opposition. A good
    assessment of the situation and the opponent's strategy is needed to decide
    how and when to play this card.
    Cosmic Reallignment [VR]: This is a way of getting card quickly into your
    graveyard, and getting huge card advantage. If you have at least 1 less card
    in your hand than your opponent, you will gain card advantage. The less you
    have in comparison to your opponent, the more advantage you get. Playing it
    when the opponent has less cards will be bad for you though. But decks that 
    rely on finding certain cards quickly may not care if it sets them up to win.
    This card can also be used in decks that try to run the opponent out of cards
    and can be good for ruining the day of combo/stall decks that are building up
    a way to kill you in their hand.
    Stolen Supplies [VR]: Mainly used in decks which stall the opponent, 
    by using cards like Wasteland. This stops them using many cards and 
    leaving them with unused resources. The stalling player then takes these for
    himself for a big play.
    Throne of Renewal* [VR]: This has been the core of many one-turn-kill decks for
    a long time. They stall you with all sorts of cards making it impossible to
    deal any damage, then return everything to your hand with this. It almost
    always eventually leads to a kill using Tower of Oblivion to punish you for
    having all those cards back in your hand. Outside of such a deck it is a 
    reasonable "panic button" for a deck that can handle 5 destiny. Note that this
    has now been changed so that you lose all remaining resources when you cast it.
    Tower of Oblivion [VR]: Used mainly in one-turn-kill decks as the finishing
    blow, often by delivering two in succession. Using Throne of Renewal to put 
    everything in the opponent's hand, and things like Celebrations, the 
    opponent's large hand size becomes their downfall. Almost useless outside 
    of strategies like this. Some decks use fast creatures and other damage cards
    to soften up the opponent for a quick kill by just one Tower.
    Altar of Wishes [HV]: This is a crazy new card which I feel has potential. I 
    think it will work best as a cheap way to cast expensive cards. Unfortunately
    most of the time you are not going to know what the top card of your library 
    is! So using it like this is going to be a bit of a gamble. You may turn over
    a cheap card, or one which isn't useful yet or that you can't cast.
    The best strategy I think is to use it in combination with cards that allow 
    you to know what the top card of your library is. Week of Mercenaries will 
    do this, after activating it you can decide if you want to use your Altar 
    to play the top card, and you will know if you're able to cast it. Also the 
    new Sanctuary fortunes Battle Trance and Scrying Pool will allow you to set 
    up a card on top of your library to use. The last idea I have is the fortunes
    in each faction which you activate by putting a card on top of your library: 
    Altar of Destruction, Mass Grave etc. You can put whatever you want on top of
    your library when you cast these, then use Altar of Wishes to cast it.
    #7.04E Water spells
    Tsunami: This can be used as a control card by just wiping out multiple
    creatures, or as an aggressive strategy by having lots of flying creatures in
    your deck which will survive the blast.
    #7.04F Earth spells
    Earth's Grasp [VR]: This is mainly used as an anti-Pao Deathseeker measure. If
    you are building a deck that suffers greatly against this card, or other
    quick attack creatures (mainly Stronghold, and there are some good new ones) 
    then this can be an insurance measure. You may want to have events like Day of
    Fortune to be able to discard it for another card if you find you're facing a
    deck not using these strategies.
    #7.04G Primal spells
    Time Jump*: This is mainly an aggressive spell, great for decks that can afford
    to raise their skill high enough. It can be good to include one copy, even if 
    it falls outside your normal range of cards, as it can pay off in a long game.
    Its main use is to give you a second attack before the opponent gets a turn.
    This means you can either attack twice with creatures, or first move them where
    you want to attack from, then attack in your extra turn. You can often win
    in the right situation by just moving creatures into empty rows, and using
    Time Jump to allow them to attack right away. In a more tense state of play,
    you can take advantage of the extra attack to clear away the opponent's
    creatures and gain momentum.
    #7.04H Fire spells
    Armageddon: This is mainly for control decks, it is a way of killing everything
    at once. This will work against almost every creature in the game. Watch out
    for creatures with magic shield or fire heal, as these will survive. That
    can be to your advantage if you are the one using them! This is the easiest
    way to get the "Not the end of the world" achievement. Try and bait the
    opponent into casting as much as possible before you cast this.
    Firestorm: This is a bit on the expensive side for aggro decks, so tends to be
    more in control decks. It's one people often forget about, too. Look for ways
    to force your opponent into an unbalanced formation by the way you use your
    Immolation: Quite a specific and slow way to control the board, it needs a 
    particular deck build to make this work. In combination with creature with
    Immune to Magic, Magic Resist or Fire Heal you can keep it going forever. This
    is normally the focus of the deck, using the creature that survives as your
    way to win.
    #7.04I Air spells
    Sandstorm [VR]: This is mainly used by slow control decks, especially 
    one-turn-kill decks, as a way of stalling the opponent. If the opponent has no
    shooters, then you can't be attacked at all. So obviously that is the best
    time to use this. This is going to be a temporary measure, so will be backed up
    by countless other ways to stall in the deck. It can be used in an aggressive
    deck as a way to win the life race.
    The Song of the Lost [HV]: This can be used to move creatures out of your way
    to deal the opponent damage, and/or set them up for you to attack them, exactly
    how you want. To get maximum damage through to your opponent, first attack with
    every creature that is able to hit the opponent directly. Then use this spell,
    and move as many creatures as possible into the rows you already attacked from.
    This will open up more rows for you to continue to attack. This can also be 
    used as a nasty combo with Ice Splinters, moving creatures into and out of the
    enchanted row until they die. It can also be used as a way to set up other 
    cards, for example putting creatures into the perfect formation for you to hit
    them with a Fireball or doubling up creatures to be hit by your attacker with
    #7.04J Light spells
    Celestial Armour: This is like a mental version of earth's Stone Shield. It
    stops you or your creatures taking any damage. When damage would be dealt
    it is prevented, and the Armour lasts the rest of the turn. Until that turn has
    ended, you and your creatures are still untouchable by damage. At end of turn
    it will disappear. Your creatures can still be returned to your hand, or messed
    with in other ways that don't involve damage. But on the whole, it's going to
    make you and your army totally safe for at least the next opponent's turn, if
    they can't dispel this card. This can help you win a life race, or just block
    a big kill spell you expect to take out many of your creatures.
    Resurrection: This can be difficult to use, since the 5 resources you pay is
    generally going to be bigger than the cost of the creature you get back. But
    it doesn't have to be. If you can use some method to get a huge creature into
    your graveyard (say discarding it to the Day of Fortune event) you can then
    bring it back at a reduced cost and without losing card advantage. I used this
    card for a while in a Sanctuary deck too as a way of getting back 
    Outmaneouvre creatures to trigger their ability again. Late in the game, this 
    card can give you a big selection of possible creatures to get back.
    #7.04K Dark spells
    Curse of the Netherworld: Expensive mass destruction, but it heals your
    creatures instead of hurting them. At the right time this can be devastating.
    Save it for when you can kill several creatures and bring back lots of yours
    from the brink of death.
    Puppet Master: This can be the worst nightmare for the opponent. It works best
    when the opponent has not too many creatures out, and at least one of them
    is really big. When you steal that big creature, it can turn a balanced 
    situation severely in your favour. It doesn't work well when the opponent has
    a lot of smaller creatures out, as taking one won't help that much. Also watch
    out for Town Portal and Broken Bridge as these can get the creature back to
    the opponent's hand to be re-cast.
    #7.04L Events
    Day of the Fallen Wolf [VR]: Good for decks which revolve around creatures with
    high retaliation, usually focused on Truce of Elrath and Wolf Justicar.
    Week of Austerity [VR]: This is useful for decks that either don't much rely
    on creatures, or don't need to put out lots at once. It slows the opponent down
    making it harder for them to rush you with lots of small creatures. It is also
    good in direct damage decks as a way of generating some more damage early.
    Cosmic Balance [HV]: This is mainly a defense against stall decks, which tend
    to hold a lot of cards in their hand at once. They also sometimes like to win
    by forcing you to have a massive hand size then whacking you with Tower of
    Oblivion. This addresses both of those issues. It is costly to use, but it will
    be well worth it for the disruption it will cause.
    #8.00 Extras
    Odds and ends that don't fit into any of the main sections.
    #8.01 Known bugs
    These are the issues in the game which I can personally reproduce, and which I
    consider to be flaws. In the end it's up to the developers to have the last
    word in what is and isn't correct, as we don't have access to comprehensive
    rules. But these are what I feel deserve attention and as far as I know have
    not been justified.
    (1) Imperial Phalanx should say "If no friendly melee creature has attacked 
    since the beginning of your most recent turn..."
    (2) Week of the Wild Spirits is missing the text, "Until end of turn" as
    is written on Week of the Mercenaries etc.
    (3) Week of Austerity has a serious bug (details withheld until fixed).
    (4) If a creature enchanted with Fiery Weapon attacks Blackskull Crusher, no
    counter is put on the attacking creature. I don't believe this can be treated
    as an extension of the Crusher's ability.
    (5) The hypnotize ability has text errors, it reads: "Enemy creature of the 
    same column can't move." It should say, "Enemy creatures in the same row can't
    (6) Shadow Image's text starts with "Permanent:" which is only meant to be used
    for an ongoing spell.
    These are the bugs that have been fixed:
    (1) Blood Pool is missing the text which states it only lasts until end of
    turn. FIX: missing text added.
    (2) Maws of Chaos and Halls of Amnesia are not castable if the opponent has no
    fortunes/chaos in their deck, and the "choose from hand" option is greyed out
    if they have none in their hand. FIX: you must now choose your option first
    and then the spell does nothing (except reveal cards) if you find no relevant
    card where you have chosen.
    (3) Spell Twister is not castable if the opponent has no spells in hand. FIX:
    you can now always cast this, and it does nothing (except reveal cards) if
    there are no spells in the opponent's hand.
    (4) I use Puppet Master to take control of an enemy creature. I then use Week
    of the Dead to kill it and gain resources. The opponent gains resources even
    though it was me who used the event's ability, the "you" in its text must
    surely refer to the player who activated the ability. FIX: correct player
    now gets the resources.
    (5) There is no rule in the help file that stops you attacking immediately
    with a creature stolen by Puppet Master. The only reference is in the tutorial
    where it says a creature cannot normally attack the turn it is deployed. But
    Puppet Master does not deploy the creature. FIX: now mentioned in the help 
    (6) Throne of Renewal should state that it returns all *other* cards on the
    battleground to owners' hands. Currently the wording suggests it would return
    itself as well. FIX: it's now an instant so correction no longer applies.
    (7) I use Garant's Purge to put your Stone Shield into the graveyard from your
    deck. You get back the Shield using Shantiri Ruins. You cast the Shield.
    The shield now stays even if you take damage! FIX: shield now falls off as
    (8) Avalanche states that its effect applies during the next turn, but it
    should be until your next turn. FIX: text corrected.
    (9) Void Rift has a typo in its last line, it says "card" instead of "cards".
    FIX: text corrected.
    (10) After I choose what card to take out of the opponent's deck with Garant's
    Purge, I get to look at their hand. But if I now right click on their 
    library, I can go back and change my choice now I have seen their hand. FIX:
    you can no longer go back after making your choice.
    (11) I put Ice Shell on my creature which is being protected with melee guard.
    I attack with it, and take zero retaliation from a melee creature thanks to
    the melee guard, whereas I normally would have received 1 damage. Yet the Ice
    Shell still falls off the creature as if damage had been done. FIX: it now
    works in line with similar cards, letting other effects like melee guard have
    the chance to prevent the damage first.
    (12) I use Puppet Master to steal your quick attack creature that you attacked 
    with last turn. I can't attack with it even though the wording says I should 
    be able to! If you didn't attack, I can attack though. FIX: you can now attack
    right away.
    (13) Front-back/back-front attack order for doubled up creatures with Fiery
    Rage on them dependent on whether the same player cast both FR or not. FIX:
    it appears it is always back-front.
    (14) Hellfire Maniac, which causes both creatures in front of him to be 
    berserk, sometimes makes the front one attack first and sometimes the back one.
    This is a crucial distinction, as it can mean the difference between both 
    creatures getting killed or just one. I can see no pattern as to which one 
    attacks first. It has nothing to do with the order creatures were deployed.
    FIX: it appears the creatures now attack in the order they were deployed.
    #8.02 Game and guide jargon
    These are some abbreviations you might meet when playing or reading forums.
    Or terms I have used in the guide that you may not be familiar with! See the
    in-game help file (question mark in bottom-left of main menu) for the most
    common terms used in the game and this guide. Also see section 6.01.
    ****: Whoops! Someone typed a word into the ingame chat window which it didn't
    like and censored. Some weird examples of this are "kill" and "xxx".
    ADJACENT (TO): Two squares are adjacent if one is next to the other, except by
    diagonals. The two front lines are considered adjacent as if the central bar
    for ongoing spells wasn't there.
    AGGRO: An aggressive strategy (or card) that aims to kill the opponent as
    quickly as possible. Usually this is cheap, efficient creatures.
    ALTERNATE ART: Some cards have more than one possible artwork. In all other
    respects, these variations are identical and work exactly the same during a
    duel. However, in the deck editor they are however treated as distinct cards.
    You cannot toggle the artwork for a card. It's possible to have the alternate
    art version but not the normal version!
    BASE (SET): The original set of cards before any expansions were released. They
    come from Reinforcement Packs and Heroic Packs. Does not have any Sanctuary
    CARD ADVANTAGE: The total amount of cards you have in play and in your hand
    compared to your opponent. Whoever has more has the card advantage. If I use
    2 cards to take out 1 of my opponent's creatures, they have gained a card
    advantaged of 1 over me. If I use a spell to wipe out 1 of my creatures and
    4 of theirs, I have gained a card advantage of 2. (2 of my cards for 4 of
    theirs). Try where possible to keep card parity, or gain card advantage. In a
    long game it is often what decides who will win.
    CONTROL: Cards or strategies that revolves around killing or stalling the
    opponent's cards, hence controlling the situation. Usually this leads to a
    long game.
    DIRECT DAMAGE: Cards or abilities that can damage the opposing Hero directly,
    without having to rely on creatures to deliver damage. For example: Altar
    of Destruction or the Hero Belias' ability.
    EFFICIENT: A term I often use for a card, meaning that is does a lot for what
    it costs. For example a creature with high stats, or a spell with a great
    effect in relation to their resource/skill requirements. Or in terms of using
    cards in general, being efficient means getting the most out of them and 
    maintaining or gaining card advantage.
    ELO: A measure of how well you are doing in ranked duels, see section 5.00.
    GG: Good game. It is a polite thing to say after a game is finished/about to
    HV: Herald of the Void. The second expansion of cards for this game. They come
    from Herald of the Void Packs.
    IRC/MIRC: Internet relay chat. See section 8.03.
    MAXOUT: My term for how many times in total you have to raise skills to be able
    to cast every card in your deck. See section 4.01.
    META: General term for what decks types are popular, and what decks can be
    played to counter those types of decks.
    NERF: Make a card worse in some way. This is something that the developers
    may do on occasion to balance an overpowered card, or to deal with unforeseen
    interactions with other cards.
    OP: Overpowered. A card that is considered to be too good and requires a nerf.
    OTK: One turn kill. It is a type of deck that stalls the opponent for many 
    turns until it is able to deliver killing damage in one turn. 
    PREMIUM: Shiny-looking special versions of cards which mainly come out of
    premium packs. They have no impact on gameplay, but are kept in a separate
    pile from the regular version of the card in your deck editor. They are worth
    double towards winning the infernal deal card (see section 3.07).
    RUSH: See aggro.
    STALLING: Cards or strategies which stop the opponent doing much, or from
    being able to attack with creatures they have out.
    TARGET: Cards and effects that include the word "target" use targets. Choosing 
    which creature to attack does not count as choosing a target. So events like
    Day of the Sanctuary help against cards like Fire Bolt which target, but not
    against being attacked, or non-target cards like Earthquake. Note however that
    ongoing spells that enchant creatures do target, even though they don't use
    the word "target".
    VR: Void Rising. The first expansion of cards for this game. Introduced the
    Sanctuary faction. They come from Void Rising Packs.
    #8.03 Chatting to other players on the forum
    There is also a chat room specifically for DoC players. It uses something
    called IRC (sometimes written mIRC) which is internet relay chat. Go to this 
    If you click login to services, you'll need to enter your password. I don't
    know what difference this makes, doesn't appear to do anything! Either way,
    click on connect and you'll be taken to the chatroom.
    This is a website with links to lots of FAQ sites about (m)IRC, you'll quickly
    become better at it than me!
    The first one on the list is particular good for newcomers to (m)IRC, telling
    you the basics, and commands and such:
    #8.04 Achievement guide
    This is a guide to help you get the achievements in the game. The list of 
    those you have completed and those you have yet to do can be found in the 
    profile screen (see section 3.04). The incomplete ones are listed first in this
    Each achievement has a "level" which gives a rough idea about how hard it is
    to achieve, and how much you will get as a reward for completing it. Many will
    take an awful long time, I still only have 56/94 unlocked! So don't expect to
    do these all in a day, or even a month. 
    Some achievements are just about having certain cards in your collection. When
    this is the case, just keep buying packs of the appropriate set and hope you 
    get the right cards. Also check the infernal pit deal which can help fill holes
    in your collection (see section 3.07). You get 1st base set cards from
    Reinforcement and Heroic packs, Void Rising cards from Void Rising Packs and
    Herald of the Void cards from Herald of the Void Packs. All three appear in
    Emilio Packs.
    For achievements that require premium cards, these appear in premium packs
    and occasionally in other packs. The Infernal Pit also sometimes has premium
    cards available. This is a good way to pick up specific ones you need for an
    For the "reach level..." achievements all you need to do is keep playing
    online duels (not practice duels) and you will eventually reach
    the required level. You get more XP for winning, but you still get some for
    losing games. You never lose XP, so the more you play, the higher you go.
    Some of these achievements are so hard there's no real advice I can give, such
    as finishing first place in a jackpot tournament. I've not done this myself,
    and doing so is going to require an expert level of play and an elite card set.
    Or else a very lucky day!
    If anyone wants more specific advice about an achievement, please let me know.
    I've included advice below for other achievements:
    -Wolf Soldier: Finish Orc Invasion and reach level 3, unlocks Wolf Soldiers
    You will earn this while playing the tutorial/campaign, with the help of a
    couple of online duels. See sections 2.00-2.03.
    -Friend or foe: Win 30 practice games against friends, 9,000 gold
    The direct challenges from the friend list do not count towards this! To get
    this achievement you need to do it the old way, both going to the practice
    screen and challenging from there. If you and a friend are both trying to do
    this achievement, make sure that someone performs some kind of action before
    surrendering the game. As long as you do something as simple as raise one of
    your skills, the win will count after a surrender. If you don't do anything,
    it won't count.
    -Devoted companion: log in 25 days in a row, 1 Small Pack
    If you play this daily, you will earn it for just logging in for 25 days. You
    don't even need to do anything each time to earn this, although you may as
    well at least stash your daily reward before logging out again.
    -Tournament Regular: Enter 10 jackpot tournaments, 2,000 gold
    You just need to enter the tournaments to progress this. You don't even need
    to play any matches in the tournament. See section 5.03.
    -Why can't we be friends?: Have 50 friends, 1 Premium Heroic Pack
    You can find names of people willing at accept friend invites here:
    -A Rising Champion: Reach 300 points on the Swiss leaderboard, 1 Emilio Pack
    See section 5.04 for Swiss tournaments. Once you have good enough cards and 
    play skills to place highly in Swiss tournaments, keep doing well and you'll 
    get there eventually. You can view your points on the leaderboard (see section
    -The Big Cheese: Win 25 Swiss tournaments, Void Rising Box
    As above, if you get to the point where you can win these, you can get this
    achievement just by keeping on winning. You can now get access to many tickets
    from daily rewards (I seem to be getting around 6 each week) so you may not 
    even have to purchase any tickets. 
    -The Hills are Alive: Complete your first Swiss tournament, 1 tournament ticket
    You just need to enter a Swiss tournament and play through all 3 duels without
    leaving the tournament. Once you get the "3 duels complete" message, you can
    safely leave.
    -Army of the Void: Win 10 ranked duels just with Herald of the Void cards, 
    1 Heroic pack
    A small reward for a difficult task. You're going to need a big selection of
    cards (and at least one Hero!) from Herald of the Void, so this will mean
    several boxes at least. I would recommend trying to use Stronghold as I think
    it has the strongest selection of new creatures. Apart from Bramble Beast and
    Kitten Warrior they are all decent. You're going to have to add a large 
    amount of neutral creatures and fortunes to make up the numbers. Revised
    Tactics is good as it lets you remove some of the weaker cards you have had to
    -Mastering Diversity: Win 10 ranked duels with a singleton deck, 6 tournament
    This is hard work! You can't have more than 1 copy of any card in your deck.
    having 8 separate events isn't too bad, but only being allowed one of each
    creature, spell and fortune makes things tough. I would recommend using a Hero
    with 3 magic schools (preferably Ariana) to give you access to the maximum 
    range of cards. The bigger your collection, the more chance you have, but
    even with a big collection this is hard. Keep at it, and eventually you'll get
    lucky when an opponent gets a bad draw and your cards happen to come together
    Note that premium cards are considered distinct cards for this achievement.
    That means that if you have say a regular Wretched Ghoul and a premium
    Wretched Ghoul, you can include both and still get this achievement. This makes
    it a whole lot easier, as you can double up on the better cards so you don't
    have to include so many poor cards. And of course stick to the minimum 59!
    -Pimped out Deck: Create a valid deck from 1st base set premium cards, 
    500 seals
    This required you to not just own premium cards, but to have enough so that
    you can put together a deck just consisting of premiums. So this will
    require a premium Hero to begin with, any 8 premium events (although you
    can't use more than 4 of the same one) and a mixture of 50 premium creature,
    spell and fortune cards that fit your Hero. Once you have premium Hero(es) you
    may want to start picking up cards (especially commons) from the Infernal Pit
    that help you complete this deck. Don't worry about doing this until you have
    a big collection and plenty of cards to spare!
    -A New Herald: Win 20 ranked duels with each Hero from Herald of the Void, 
    alternate art Seria, Seeker of Lost Souls (basic Necropolis Hero)
    You first have to be lucky enough to get each Hero: keep on buying Herald of
    the Void packs until you get them. Then build a deck around them using your
    usual strategies, but adjusting to their magic schools. The reward is only
    a visually different card, no actual play value.
    -Not the End of the World: Cast Armageddon and have at least 1 surviving
    creature on your side of the field, 1 tournament ticket
    For this you need a creature that survives Armageddon. This will be either
    Moonsilk Spider, Greater Fire Elemental or a creature enchanted with Arcane
    Ward. Don't even try to win the duel, just build your whole deck around
    stalling and killing the opponent's creatures so you can stay alive long
    enough to get off your combo. Then apologize and surrender. ;) I would 
    recommend using for your Hero Kal-Azaar or Shaar, and not having any 
    creatures besides Moonsilk Spiders if you can. Then you can concentrate on
    lots of spells and fortunes to kill or bounce away the opponent's things.
    Arcane Wards give you other ways for your creatures to survive. Use searcher
    cards like Arcane Academy to find your Armageddon, and Call to Duty to find
    the creature you need.
    -The Cherry on Top: Finish in the 1st tier of a jackpot tournament, 
    1 Reinforcement Pack
    A very small reward for a very hard achievement. You need to finish in the top
    1% of all the players in a jackpot tournament (see section 5.03). This means
    having a combination of a great deck and playing really well.
    #8.05 Version history and credits
    Version 4.13
    -Added note at the start that the guide is "finished" and doesn't include
    the latest expansions.
    -Moved the code MMDOC-H4S-THE-B3ST-FANS to the "does not work" section, thanks 
    to Ed M for pointing this out to me.
    Version 4.12
    -Forgot to also remove penny arcade code from 3.05E as it no longer works.
    Thanks to Luca for this information, and to Alpas for reminding me.
    Version 4.11
    -Updated section 3.05E with information about codes that have expired recently.
    Thanks to Luca for letting me know about this.
    Version 4.10
    -Added coded HAPPY-BIRTHDAY-DOC to section 3.05E.
    -Removed from section 5.06 the part about losing on purpose being against the
    rules, as I've since realized I have no evidence for this. Thanks to Manx
    Turtle and Daron for pointing this out to me.
    Version 4.09
    -Added new promotional code: MMDOC-H4S-THE-B3ST-FANS. Thanks to B4ldry for
    bringing it to my attention.
    Version 4.08
    -Added more to 6.01 and 8.02 about targeting to include creature enchantments.
    -Added about Shinje Warrior in 7.03.
    Version 4.07
    -Finished all the corrections from Manx Turtle, thanks again!
    -Added links to my video guides for Road to Flammschrein in 2.01.
    -Added more about mulligans in 6.06 regarding going first or second.
    -Added hypnotize and Shadow Image text bugs to 8.01, thanks to Clementx for
    noticing these.
    -Added "friend or foe" to the achievement guide in 8.04.
    Version 4.06
    -Many more corrections, again thanks to Manx Turtle for his hard work. 
    -Added links to my video guides for Road to Flammschrein in 2.01
    Version 4.05
    -Made many, many corrections and alterations to spelling, grammar etc. Huge 
    thanks to Manx Turtle for his amazing proof reading.
    -Updated section 3.02 to reflect the changes in the patch to friends list, 
    challenges etc.
    -Added tip to 3.06A about holding middle mouse button to remove text from
    a zoomed card. Credit to Cucu99 for finding this, and thanks to Manx Turtle
    for bringing it to my attention.
    -Updated commentary for Hellfire Maniac in 4.03 and removed it from the bug
    list 8.01. Thanks to Manx Turtle for helping me with extensive testing on this
    -Added details in 8.01 for fixed issues about how they have been fixed.
    Version 4.04
    -Updated "mastering diversity" achievement guide in 8.04. Thanks to Manx 
    Turtle for sending me this tip.
    Version 4.03
    -Updated section 8.01 after new patch, thanks to GustavXIII for helping me with
    lots of testing.
    Version 4.02
    -I had Cosmic Balance and Hail Storm listed as a VR cards, changed to HV.
    Version 4.01
    -Added new code THANK5-4-THE-F4CEBOOK-LUV to 3.05E. Thanks to Hantzz for 
    posting it on the forum.
    -Added 3.06F: Spreadsheet to track your collection. Thanks to Nightangelbeta
    for creating this and letting me link to it in my guide.
    -Added Herald of the Void cards to sections 4.02-4.13 and 7.02-7.04.
    -Changed the order of cards in the above sections so that base set cards appear
    first, then Void Rising, then Herald of the Void.
    -Added to section 4.02-4.13 a guide to the best available non-starter cards by 
    putting a * next to them in their description.
    -Separated out creatures and fortunes in sections 4.02-4.05.
    -Added an explanation of break points to 5.04
    -Added 5.06 a procedure for players being abusive or losing on purpose.
    -Added about fear/sweep attack interaction, "owner" and "banish" to 6.01.
    Version 3.05
    -Removed from 5.03 about jackpot games not affecting your regular ELO rating
    as I have since discovered that it does.
    -Added new promotional codes 5ORRY54TURD4Y and TH4NK5FBF4N5 to 3.05E. Thanks to
    Smash for emailing me this.
    Version 3.04
    -Added about drawing cards/putting cards into your hand, 6.01.
    -Added more about being forced into bad formations in 6.04.
    -Added a "general" strategy versus each magic school in 6.04.
    -Removed Clashing Tides from 6.04 because I realized there's not much defense
    against it. I had misread the card.
    -Added section 6.09, unusual plays.
    -Added Garant's Purge bug, 8.01.
    -Added Void Rift bug to 8.01, thanks to Fire-sn4kE.
    Version 3.03
    -Split up section 3.05 into categories for easier browsing.
    -Added the new promotional code website to 3.05E. Thanks to xaxanouliss and 
    -Added schedule for jackpot/Swiss tournaments to 5.03 and 5.04. Thanks to 
    -Added about tournaments needing 200 ELO to 5.03 and 5.04. Thanks to 
    -Added details about targets to 6.01.
    -Added Hellfire Maniac/Fiery Rage problem to 8.01. Thanks to Captain Jake for
    helping me test this, and MNM versus Smarties.
    -Added more terminology to 8.02.
    Version 3.02
    -Added achievement guide 8.04, version history becomes 8.05.
    -Removed the promotional codes that no longer work, only 1 left.
    Version 3.01
    -Added link to Psychobabble's HV review.
    -Added about iPad users not being able to enter codes, 3.05.
    -Added more explanation to daily rewards, 3.09.
    -Added section 4.14, what to buy from the shop.
    -Added Puppet Master/quick attack bug to 8.01. Thanks to Captain Jake and 
    MNM vs Smarties for testing with me.
    -Added Ice Shell bug to 8.01, reported by MoritzBradtke.
    -Stone shield bug fixed, 8.01. Thanks to MNM vs Smarties for testing with me.
    Version 3.00
    -Added about referencing the jargon section at start of guide.
    -Changed "bonfire" to "campfire" at certain points, whoops.
    -Added more advice about the campaign to 2.00.
    -Updated 3.02 to cover the new notification and chat systems, removing this 
    from 8.03.
    -Added 3.09, daily rewards.
    -Added Clashing Tides to 4.06 and 6.04.
    -Added about crippling, regeneration, magic creatures and Kieran to 6.01.
    -Added 6.07, positioning flyers and 6.08, bluffing.
    -Added which achievements give which bonus Heroes in 7.01B, and about HV 
    -Added 7.04, further spells and starter faction cards to consider.
    -Added Avalanche and Imperial Phalanx bug to 8.01.
    -Several bugs have been fixed, updated 8.01.
    -Added more jargon to 8.02.
    -Added about chatting to other players, 8.03, version history becomes 8.04.
    Version 2.00
    -Added more tips about Altar of the Spider Goddess in 2.03.
    -Added about getting the cards out of premade decks in 3.05.
    -Added about Moonsilk Spinner taking retribution damage in 4.04.
    -Added details about healing in 6.01.
    -Added more explanation and examples to 6.04.
    -Added about considering rotation of events to 6.05.
    -Moved Version history and credits to become section 8.03 to make room for new
    section 7.
    -Added 8.01, known bugs and 8.02, game jargon.
    Version 1.01
    -Added information about immobilized and outmanoeuvre in 6.01.
    -Added enrage example to 6.02.
    -Added [VR] to cards from Void Rising in 4.00-4.13. Thanks to Arsym for
    prompting me to do this.
    -Added Mass Inner Fire to 4.09.
    Written in whole by robvalue using Notepad.
    Thanks to everyone on the DoC forum who have been very welcoming and friendly.
    Special thanks to hydramarine for some great advice and testing which has
    helped me understand the game much better.

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