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    Tuning Guide by Dan GC

    Version: 0.2 | Updated: 03/05/00 | Search Guide | Bookmark Guide

    Gran Turismo 2 - Tuning Guide Version 0.2
    The U.S. Version of Gran Turismo 2 for PSX
    By Dan GC (Guardian Cloud) <lbdangc@aol.com>
    When Made: 01/29/00 01:36 PM PT
    Last Updated: 03/05/00 11:14 AM PT
    Document Information: 53 K (54, 528) bytes
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      Gran Turismo 2 was...
    Created by: Polyphony Digital
    Licensed by: SCEA
    Published by: SCEA
    Released: December 17, 1999
      Okay, if you have any comments, questions, corrections, or any other
    things you can add to this, E-mail them to <LB Dan GC@aol.com>
    Table of Contents
    1. Updates
    2. What the use of this guide is
    3. Preparation (Knowledge of Modification Parts)
       1. Muffler
       2. Brakes
       3. Engine
       4. Drivetrain
       5. Turbo
       6. Suspension
       7. Tires
       8. Others
    4. Tuning
       1.  Springs
       2.  Ride Height
       3.  Dampers
       4.  Camber
       5.  Stabilizers
       6.  Brake Balance
       7.  Gear Ratios
       8.  Downforce
       9.  Toe
       10. Limited Slip Differential
       11. Yaw Control System
       12. Active Stability Controller
       13. Traction Control System Controller
    5. Frequently Asked Questions
    6. Special Thanks
    7. Author Information
    Copyright Disclaimer:
    Unpublished Work Copyright (c) 2000 Dan GC
      This FAQ is for private and personal use only. It may only be
    reproduced electronically, and if placed on a Web Page or Site, may be
    altered as long as this Disclaimer and the above Copyright Notice
    appears in full. This FAQ is not to be used for profitable/promotional
    purposes; this includes being used by publishers of magazines, guides,
    book, etc. or being incorporated into magazines, etc. in ANY way without
    Full Authorization from me and any cohorts I may have.
      Gran Turismo and Gran Turismo 2 are copyright (c) 1999 Polyphony
    Digital and Sony Computer Entertainment.
      This FAQ was created and is owned by me, Dan GC <lbdangc@aol.com>
    All Copyrights and Trademarks are acknowledged that are not
    specifically mentioned in this FAQ. Please give credit where it is due.
      If you would like to print these document, save it as a Text Document
    on your Hard Drive first, then open WordPad (if you have it), then
    change the font to a more suitable one, such as Times New Roman with the
    size of 10, take out unnecessary things, then print it afterwards.
    This FAQ can be found at:
    GameFAQs                              www.gamefaqs.com
    The Shrine (under construction)       come.to/theshrine
    Part 1: Updates
    Version 0.2 03/05/00:
      Corrected Toe tune-up subsection and finally put up my true Web Page
    address, it's still under construction, though.
    Version 0.1 01/29/00:
      First Edition
    Part 2: What the use of this guide is
      This is a quick reference to the Modification Parts and Tuning
    sections of my Quick Cash Guide. It was created for the sake of ease to
    the reader and also, people really don't know that there is more stuff
    than just ways to get Quick Cash in my Quick Cash Guide. As a result,
    this was created to help people know how to tune their car efficiently.
    Part 3: Preparation (Knowledge of Modification Parts)
      The way to prepare is know what's going on. You will need to know what
    each modification part is and does. That's why this section is here. I
    have listed for you what you need to know.
      This is taken directly from the reference manual which is exactly how
    it is in the game. So you can also say it is taken directly from the
    game itself.
      Either way, all of this is copyright (c) 1999 Sony Computer
    Entertainment, Inc.
             3.1: Muffler
      Combines a less-restrictive replacement sports-model air cleaner with
    a low back-pressure sports muffler to improve intake and exhaust flow.
    Ideal as a first-time turbo upgrade. Improves high-rpm torque in non-
    supercharged engines.
      A competition-grade air cleaner with urethane sponge filter is
    combined with a low-back pressure muffler designed to enhance engine
    performance at high rpm. Ideal for large-displacement turbo engines.
    When using with a non-supercharged engine, proper tuning beforehand is
    a must.
      Delivering even better intake efficiency than the semi-racing model,
    this racing air cleaner with a velocity stack is combined with a high-
    efficiency straight muffler designed for racing cars that normally
    operate in the high-rpm range. Suitable for tunings that maximize peak
    power. Reduces low-rpm torque and so requires proper consideration of
    engine characteristics, gear ratio, and other factors.
             3.2: Brakes
    Sports Brakes:
      Contains carbon metallic brake pads for dependable stopping power,
    even during long-distance driving. With far more initial stopping
    power and fade resistance than ordinary brakes, these brakes are also
    suitable for endurance races. Brake fluid (DOT 5) is also changed.
    Brake Balance Controller:
      Controls the anti-lock braking system to maintain the desired
    balance in braking power between the front and rear brakes. Strengthen
    the front to increase understeer for extra stability, or strengthen the
    rear to increase oversteer for better maneuverability. Remember that a
    too-strong rear brake balance increases the likelihood of spinout.
             3.3: Engine
    Performance Chip:
      The most basic upgrade. Altering the Engine Management Program
    settings allows you to boost power by adjusting engine ignition timing,
    the air/fuel ratio, and other variables. For turbocharged vehicles, the
    air filter and muffler are also replaced, for a beginner's-level
    Full-Engine Balancing:
      An extensive upgrade that includes piston and connecting rod weight
    balancing, and a precision-balanced crankshaft. Reduces vibration and
    bearing loads, and allows higher engine speeds. The rev limiter is
    reset to take advantage of this.
    Port and Polish:
      Polishes the interior of the intake ports, reducing air-flow
    resistance boosts engine power by what may seem a low degree, but is
    essential for normally aspirated and supercharged engines alike.
    NA Tune-up:
    - STAGE 1
        Boosts the power of non-supercharged engines by adjusting the
      ignition and valve timing and by installing thinner head gaskets for
      a higher compression ratio. The exhaust manifold is also replaced.
      Peak power is enhanced without affecting low-rpm torque.
    - STAGE 2
        Picks up where Stage 1 leaves off. Not only raises the compression
      ratio even further with high-compression pistons and head polishing,
      but also boots high-rpm output by replacing the cams, mounting
      reinforced valve springs, and Port and Polish. Although low-speed
      torque is diminished somewhat, the emphasis here is on boosting
      high-rpm power. The Engine Management Computer is also reset
      according to your vehicle specs.
    - STAGE 3
        Following up on Stage 2 enhancements, this upgrade completely
      overhauls the engine to enhance high-rpm performance. Higher-
      compression pistons, special high-lift racing cams with a large
      amount of valve overlap, heavy-duty competition valve sprins and
      connection rods, and engine block strengthening are all part of the
      package. The power band is shifted to the medium to high range to
      boost maximum horsepower.
    Displacement Increase:
      There's no replacement for displacement. This upgrade raises
    cylinder displacement by increasing engine bore and stroke. Greater
    displacement generally boosts the engine's torque in all rpm ranges.
             3.4: Drivetrain
    - Sports Transmission
        Replaces a normal transmission assembly with a transmission with
      closer gear ratios in all five gears. Prevents revs from dropping
      below the powerband when upshifting, and allows smoother downshifts.
      Ensures useful power ina  variety of turns. Recommended for non-
      supercharged engines.
    - Semi-racing Transmission
        These gear ratios are even closer than those of the Spors Close-
      Ratio Transmission. This gearbox is ideal for highly-tuned cars with
      a narrow powerband. Note that upshifting and downshifting will
      become more frequent. Because of time loss during shifting, this
      transmission may be counterproductive in cars with high-torque,
      wide-powerband engines.
    - Full-racing Transmission
        For races that permit the replacement of all gears, including the
      final drive gear. This upgrade also makes it possible to fine-tune
      the gear ratios according to vehicle specs and circuit features.
    - Heavy-Duty Single Plate Clutch
        Changes the clutch feeling during upshifting, so that upshifting
      feels more direct than with a normal clutch.
    - Twin Plate Clutch
        This racing clutch kit features dual clutch places, ideal for
      high-torque, high-power vehicles. Reduces clutch slippage during
      upshifting, improving acceleration.
    - Triple Plate Clutch
        Featuring three clutch places, this clutch kit boosts torque
      transmission and enhances the directness of the power. Ideal for
      highly-tuned cars.
    Limited-Slip Differential (For Professionals):
    - 2-Way Limited-Slip
        A limited-slip differential that delivers the limited slip effect
      during both acceleration adn deceleration. Stabilizes the vehicle
      attitude during braking, thereby permitting even harder braking.
      Delivers powerful traction during acceleration, but clearly makes
      turning more difficult and so is suited to drivers who are skilled
      at turning.
    - 1.5-Way Limited-Slip
        Reduces the limited-slip effect during deceleration while
      maintaining the full limited-slip effect during acceleration. This
      ensures powerful traction, and during braking, prevents excessive
      reduction in the force o fthe car attempting to turn. Free of
      quirkiness, this is a good all-around limited-slip unit.
    - 1-Way Limited-Slip
        Tis limited-slip activates the limited-slip effect only during
      acceleration, and so is suitable for front wheel drive vehicles,
      which are difficult to turn under any conditions. The absence of
      the limited-slip effect during braking makes it possible to
      maximize turning power. However, the tendency of the vehicle to
      lose stability during braking should be noted. The shortcoming of
      this type of limited-slip is that vehicle characteristics during
      acceleration change greatly when the accelerator is released to
    - Full Customization
        This special rcing modification allows independent adjustment
      of the limited-slip effect during acceleration and deceleration.
      Although capable of greatly changing a car's performance, this
      modification requires careful adjustment as improper adjustment
      can destroy the car's balance.
    - Sports
        A lightweight flywheel made with chrome molybdenum steel. Lets
      the engine rev mroe quickly. Improves acceleration slightly, but
      with narrow-powerband engines, revs may drop below the powerband
      unless a close-ratio transmission is also used.
    - Semi-Racing
        Even lighter than the sports type, this flywheel is especially
      designed for racing. Makes for a quick-revving engine. Improves
      acceleration slightly, but with narrow-powerband engines, revs may
      drop below the powerband even more easily unless a close-ratio
      transmission is also used.
    - Racing
        A super-lightweight flywheel exclusively for racing. Makes for a
      quick-revving engine that also drops revs quickly. Improves
      acceleration and deceleration, but with narrow-powerband engines,
      revs may drop below the powerband unless a close-ratio transmission
      is also used and the driver can master the proper shifting technique.
    - Carbon Driveshaft
        A lightweight driveshaft made with a carbon composite. Situated
      between the engine and the differential gear in front-engined, rear
      wheel drive or all wheel drive cars, the driveshaft is just as
      important as the flywheel for acceleration performance.
             3.5: Turbo
    Turbo Kit:
    - STAGE 1
        A turbo kit that uses a compact turbocharger to generate high-rpm
      torque without sacrificing torque in the low to medium rance. Minimal
      turbo lag and high response combine to create an excellent balance
      suitable for all types of circuits. metal gaskets, oil coolor, a
      reinforced oil pump, and other high-durability parts are also
    - STAGE 2
        A turbo kit that stresses high-rpm peak power and low to mid-range
      balance. Torque in the low range is somewhat low compared to Turbo Kit
      1, but mid to high range power is boosted considerably. In addition to
      metal gaskets, oil cooler, a reinforced oil pump, and other high-
      durability parts, a fuel pump, injector, computer, and other turbo
      components are also installed.
    - STAGE 3
        A turbo kit that focuses on quarter-mile acceleration. The powerband
      shifts further into the high-rpm range than with Turbo it 2. For greater
      effectiveness, this turbo kit should be combined with a close-ratio
      transmission and other parts. The cam is also replaced with one designed
      for turbo characteristics. In addition to metal gaskets, oil cooler, a
      reinforced oil pump, and other high-durability parts, a fuel pump,
      injector, computer, and other turbo components are also installed.
    - STAGE 4
        An oversized, high-rpm, high-output turbo kit designed purely with
      maximum horsepower in mind. Suitable for maximum-speed contests, for
      instance. The cam is also replaced with one designed for turbo
      characteristics. Ina ddition to metal gaskets, oil cooler, a reinforced
      oil pump, and other high-durability parts, a special fuel pump, injector,
      computer, and other turbo components are also installed.
    - Sports
        This air-cooled intercooler cools the hot intake air after it is
      pressurized by the turbocharger. By lowering the intake air temperature,
      air density is increased, allowing for more fuel to be used and boosting
      power. An essential part for a high-performance turbo engine.
    - Racing
        Boosts the power of a supercharged engine by lowering the intake air
      temperature. The larger capacity increases the temperature-reducing
      capabilities but slightly lowers engine response. This high-capacity
      intercooler is a suitable upgrade for engines with a high maximum
      supercharging pressure.
             3.6: Suspension
    Suspension Kits:
    - Sports
        An all-purpose, beginner-friendly suspension kit that covers all
      types of driving, from street to circuit. Both front and rear shock
      absorbers are adjustable to one of 10 damping force levels. Camber
      angle is also adjustable. Clearnace is lowered approximately 1 inch in
      the front and back. Two-way low-pressure gas shock absorbers
      (adjustable to 10 levels).
    - Semi-Racing
        A ride height-altering suspension kit for intermediate drivers.
      Spring rate and the shock absorber damping force are harder than with
      normal sports suspension. Front and rear ride height is adjustable in
      1-millimeter increments. Damping force is adjustable to one of 10
      levels, and camber angle is also adjustable. Single high-pressure gas
      shock absorvers.
    - Full Customization (For Professionals)
        Enables tuning of all suspension parts. Adjusts shock absorbers,
      replaces springs with ones with different spring rates, and replaces
      the stabilizar (anti-roll bar), which controls the vehicle's lateral
      roll stiffness. Wheel camber can be changed, and toe-in is also
      adjustable. Shock absorber compression (bound) and extension (rebound)
      are independently adjustable to one of 10 levels.
             3.7: Tires
    Sports Tires:
      Sports tires are for paved-road driving and have a greater grip than
    normal tires. Mounting high-performance tires enhances a car's
    cornering, acceleration, and braking performance and is the most
    effective upgrade. Purchasing tiresentitles you to subsequent tire
    services for as long as you own those tires. Front and rear tires must
    be purchased together.
    Racing Slick Tires:
    - Racing Hard
        A set of front and rear slick tires for racing on paved surfaces.
      These tires have low grip but are made with a durable compund that
      ensures consisten grip over the long term. Because these tires warm up
      slowly, use proper caution during the first 2 laps on a racing course.
    - Racing Medium
        A set of front and rear slick tires for racing on paved surfaces and
      made of a special compund that provides a proper balance between grip
      and durability. Tires heat to the appropriate temperature after 1 lap
      to ensure high grip. Thee tires are not as durable as hard tires but
      last longer.
    - Racing Soft
        A set of front and rear slick tires for racing on paved surfaces and
      made of a special compund that provides excellent grip, although at
      the expense of some durability. Ideal for time trials, for instance.
      After only one-half lap, these tires heat sufficiently to provide
      excellent grip. Limited durability requires mroe-frequent tire
    - Racing Super Soft
        A set of front and rear slick tires for racing on paved surfaces.
      These tires, which cast durability to the win to provide maximum grip,
      requre only several turns to warm up to the point of maximum grip.
      Caution is required as loss of grip due to wear can occur suddenly.
    Dirt Racing Tires:
      Dirt racing tires, which must be mounted on all 4 wheels for racing on
    dirt courses. These tires are designed to ensure vehicle controllability
    on slippery gravel and other unpaved surfaces. Dirt racing tires are
    available only for certain vehicle types.
    Simulation Tires (For Professionals):
      A tire that even more closely approximates the characteristic of
    actual, real-life tires. These tires make driving with the game
    controller extremely difficult and so provide a virtual experience of
    real-life driving (as opposed to video-game driving), requiring early
    braking, careful steering, and delicate accelerator manipulation. This
    is a set of front and rear tires for paved surfaces.
             3.8: Others
    Weight Reduction:
    - STAGE 1
        Lightens the vehicle by removing unnecessary parts and relacing
      others with parts made of lightweight-material. The numerous
      advantages of a lighter car include enchanced acceleration
      performance, improved cornering and braking, and better tire
    - STAGE 2
        Lightens the vehicle more by removing more parts and/or replacing
      more with lighter materials.
    - STAGE 3
        Takes Stage 2 lightening a step further.
    Racing Car Modification:
      Upgrades the car's materials and shape, changes the coloring, and adds
    aerodynamic parts, which adds downforce to the vehicle. Adjusting the
    front and rear downforce makes it possible to change the vehicle balance
    in the high-speed range.
    For Professionals:
    - Yaw Control System
        This component changes the setting of the Yaw Control System, which
      generates rotational moment in the vehicle by controlling the
      distribution of torque between the left and ride drive wheels. Raising
      the setting creates rotational moment during cornering, making turning
      easier. Note that too high a setting increases the likelihood of tire
    - Active Stability Controller
        Prevents spinning due to oversteering by actively controlling the
      braking power of all four wheels. A high setting stabilizes the car
      but makes cornering more difficult. A low setting permits greater
      freedom of movement in cornering but diminishes the spin-prevention
      effectiveness of the device.
    - TCS Controller
        For adjusting the setting of the TCS (Traction Control System),
      which prevents wheelspin by automatically releasing the accelerator
      when a drive wheel is detected to be spinning. Changing the traction
      control setting changes car's handling. A high setting stabilizes the
      car by eliminating wheelspin, but may dimish acceleration. With
      powerful rear wheel drive, a low setting can result in oversteering
      when the accelerator is being pressed.
    Part 4: Tuning
      When you select 'Settings' after entering a race, you will be brought
    to a screen that shows the car parts and you can change them however you
    like. Near the top-right of the screen is something that says...
    "L1 - Parts Settings" or something like that. If you push L1, you will
    be brought to another screen that allows you to tune your car settings.
      Do not change more than one thing at a time, since that might be the
    problem with your car if you do more than one setup change at a time.
    Oh yes, if you want the default settings for the thing you've changed,
    just push the [Start] button.
    Some Terms You Should Know:
    wheelspin       - a wheel locks up and just slides
    fishtail        - the result of wheelspin, the tire(s) just slide
    oversteer       - the car steers too much when turning
    understeer      - the car steers too little when turning
    body roll       - the way the car rolls in the corner (bad if high)
    weight transfer - the transfer of weight when acceleration/braking
             4.1:  Springs
      Springs are supposed to keep the tires on the road and not lose
    control. But if the settings are too soft or hard, weight transfer is
    screwed up, as well as understeer/oversteer. Springs can have a lot
    of positive and negative effects, depending on what you do.
      If both springs lean more towards stiffness, then these are the
    effects: reduced grip on bumpy roads, reduced body roll, and increased
    handling. If both springs lean more towards softness, then the effects
    are the opposite if the springs stiff: increased grip on bumpy roads,
    increased body roll, and reduced handling.
      If you stiffen the front springs, more understeer will be induced. The
    same thing goes if you soften the rear ones. More oversteer will be
    induced if you soften the front springs or stiffen the rear ones. For
    cars with a lot of understeer, you shouldn't give it more oversteer
    since it'll probably be easy to spin out.
      Weight transfer is also affected if you change the springs. If the
    front springs are softened, front weight transfer is increased greatly
    when you brake. It may be good for a FWD car since it's front engine
    and front wheel drive. If you soften the rear springs, rear weight
    transfer is increased greatly while accelerating. It would be good for
    a RWD or 4WD car, since the rear wheels are used, road grip is
    increased while accelerating.
      You shouldn't really use the springs for balance, since you need to
    have the perfect settings so it could be right. The stabilizers are
    better for turning and road grip. Weight transfer is just too
    important to use the springs, but if you're good enough, you might
    want to use the springs.
             4.2:  Ride Height
      Ride height is the height of the bottom of the car from the ground on
    a straight paved surface. The lower the ride height, the less weight
    transfer there is during acceleration, braking, and cornering. This
    makes it more stable and since there is less weight transfer, cornering
    is improved.
      If the ride height is too low, you will lose control if you're going
    too fast when you go into a bump or jump (bottom out). You can stiffen
    the springs and/or dampers to get rid of this problem. Ride height
    should only be adjusted on smooth courses, otherwise you'll have a lot
    of trouble cornering.
      You shouldn't really mess with the ride height unless you know what
    you're doing. The car is usually fine as it is. You can usually just
    adjust the settings until you find what you think is best.
             4.3:  Shocks (Dampers)
      The dampers (Shock Absorbers or simply just Shocks) dampens the
    "swinging" of the springs. The shocks are very important when
    - Bound:
        This affects the stability and handling of the car. The stiffer you
    make the Bound Damper, the more responsiveness the car has because weight
    transfer is more tolerable. If it is too stiff, stability is screwed up
    on non-smooth surfaces. If it is too soft, handling is terrible.
    - Rebound (affects entry and exit of corners): 
        This affects the entry and exit of corners, as well as turning. To
    reduce understeer when turning, you can soften the front or stiffen the
    rear. Also, to reduce oversteer, stiffen the front or soften the rear.
             4.4:  Camber
      Camber's the angle the tires make with the road, it's measured in
    degrees. The grip of the tires to the road depends on the camber angle.
    Zero camber angle is supposed to have the maximum grip, but in reality
    it doesn't because a small negative camber makes the tires tilt
    inward, so when you turn, the tire is aligned perfectly with the road.
    It is aligned perfectly with the road as it is on a straight road with
    zero camber. In order to achieve maximum grip while turning, you need
    to have some negative camber.
      A positve camber isn't very good and you should never make it
    positive. You should just mess with the camber settings until you find
    something ideal for your driving style.
      For some reason, in GT2, you cannot make the wheels' angles negative,
    so I suggest you to leave this alone and adjust the Toe instead.
             4.5:  Stabilizers
      The stabilizers are similar to the springs in what it does. The
    stiffer the front and rear, the more responsive handling is. But this
    can screw up the stability on bumpy surfaces. While the softer the
    stabilizers, the less responsive handling is, although it gives more
    stability on bumpy surfaces.
      If you soften the front or stiffen the rear, understeer is reduced.
    Likewise, if you stiffen the front or soften the rear, oversteer is
    reduced. However, do not over-stiffen/soften the front or rear
    because it can have a negative effect, especially if you try to
    reduce understeer. Fishtailing can become quite common and may lead
    to spin outs. But if you reduce oversteer too much, you may not be
    able to take the turns as easily, and if you turn too hardly, it is
    very easy to fishtail or spin out, so be careful.
             4.6:  Brake Balance
      The purpose of the Brake Balance is to adjust the power of the
    brakes when braking. In order to reduce oversteer, increase the front
    or reduce the rear. You can also reduce understeer if you reduce the
    front or increase the rear. 
      You would want a little higher front brake balance than the rear,
    in most cases, because you won't oversteer while turning, thus making
    it easier to turn without spinning out or fishtailing.
             4.7:  Gear Ratios
      The final gear is the most important, but the other gears can be
    used to adjust acceleration and gear changes. The lower the number,
    the more max speed there is. The higher the number, the less max
    speed there is. Remember, though, the higher the max speed, the more
    acceleration is reduced. Likewise, the lower the max speed, the
    more acceleration is increased.
      For courses with a lot of corners (not many straight surfaces for
    acceleration), you would generally want faster acceleration, so you
    would increase the number. But for a course like the Test Track,
    you would want a higher max speed, so you would decrease the number.
      I've gotten E-mail from people asking me how to increase the max speed
    even further after getting fully tuning-up their car, and after putting
    the gear settings to their lowest because some cars seem to only be able
    to go up to 220 MPH or so. What I'm about to tell you will make the
    car's max speed exceed the amount you think is the max possible.
      Well, go to the Machine Test and choose 'Max Speed' to test your car's
    max speed. Go to the Settings, go to the Gears Settings, and put all of
    the gears to their lowest and start the test. See your car's max speed
    and if you want to increase it even further, quit and go back to the
    Settings. Push [Start] while highlighting one of the gears to return it
    to its default settings, and change the gears to their lowest settings
    again. Take the test again and the max speed should have either
    increased or decreased.
      Now quit and go back to the Settings once again. You see the option
    all the way at the bottom of the menu with the gears? Well, select it
    and move it to the right a few, then push X or O to accept. Then push
    [Start] and it'll return to its default number. Go to the gears and make
    them the lowest possible. Take the test again and the max speed should
    have increased.
    Note: Don't do this for all cars since the higher your max speed, the
          less acceleration you have. You can also only do this for the
          final gear afterwards
             4.8:  Downforce
      This is the aerodynamic force that pushes the car down to the road.
    The higher the front and rear are, the more grip during cornering is.
    That also makes the car more stable, since it sticks to the road more.
    But this decreases speed on a straight surface because a lot of weight
    it put down on the car. The lower the front and rear are, the less
    grip during cornering is, although speed is increased on straight
      You can reduce understeer by increasing the front or decreasing the
    rear. Also, if you decrease the front or increase the rear, oversteer
    is reduced. The faster your car is going, the more downforce effects
    your car.
             4.9:  Toe
      Similar to the camber, except somewhat different. It is the angle
    the tires make with each other. Zero toe means the tires are parallel
    with each other. A positive toe causes the tires to be more outward
    towards each other, while a negative toe makes the tires more
    inward to each other.
      If you use a negative toe for both the front and back, handling is
    increased, but if the angle is too low, handling will be messed up.
    If you use some negativaty, handling is increased because the tires
    lean inward and when you turn, the tire are perpendicular to the
    ground, just like what camber does.
      But any adjustment to Toe may wear out the tires quickly in races
    that allow tire damage, especially Endurance races. Use at your own
    risk, it is recommended you just adjust the Traction Control System
    Controller instead, unless you know what you're doing.
      A positive front toe or negative rear toe reduces oversteer, while
    a negative front toe or positive rear toe reduces understeer.
    Thanks to Ramon <raralio@hotmail.com> for correcting me and other
    things related to Toe
    Negative Toe:
      This is what the left and right tires are like when you make it
    negative. It's somewhat exaggerated, but you get the picture (the top
    of the tires lean inward). Also known as Toe-in.
        /¯¯¯/       \¯¯¯\
       /   /         \   \
      /   /           \   \
     /___/             \___\
        Left         Right
      If you keep a positive camber and make some negative toe, the tires
    will lean inward some and steering is easier, but you lose some
    stability. Turning is easier because weight transfer puts pressure in
    the direction you are trying to turn.
    Positive Toe:
      This is what the left and right tires look like when you make it
    positive. It's somewhat exaggerated, but you can still understand it
    (the top of the tires lean outward). Also known as Toe-out.
     \¯¯¯\             /¯¯¯/
      \   \           /   /
       \   \         /   /
        \___\       /___/
        Left         Right
      You will gain extra stability, but turning becomes more difficult.
    Zero Toe:
      This is what the left and right tires look like when you make the toe
    zero. The tires are parallel to each other.
        |¯¯¯|       |¯¯¯|
        |   |       |   |
        |   |       |   |
        |___|       |___|
        Left         Right
      On a straight road, stability to the road is nearly perfect. If you
    had toe-out, stability would increase further. But when you turn, well,
    that's different. It is more difficult to turn than if you had toe-in.
             4.10: Limited-Slip Differential
      The limited-slip differential is composed of LSD during initial
    torque, acceleration, and deceleration. If you get this for an FF, you
    you only get the 'Front' sets. If you buy this for an RR or FR, you
    receive only the 'Rear' sets. As for a 4WD, both 'Front' and 'Rear'
    sets are received.
    - Initial Torque
        FF: If you soften it, responsive handling is reduced, but there is
            less body roll as well as more stability. Stiffening it results
            in increased responsive handling, but increased body roll and
            less stability.
        FR/RR: By softening it, responsive handling increases, although body
               roll increases as well and less stability. By stiffening it,
               responsive handling decreases, even though body roll
               decreases and stability increases.
        4WD: By softening the front, responsive handling is reduced, but
             there's more stability and less body roll. If you stiffen the
             front, responsive handling is increases, but you get less
             stability and more body roll. Stiffening the rear results in
             less acceleration, although you get more stability. If you
             soften the rear, you receive more acceleration, but in return,
             you get less stability.    
    - Acceleration
        Grip to the road is increased while accelerating, but stability
    is reduced while braking. When braking for a corner, the car is hard to
    handle, but when you exit the corner, it works very well. This can
    be fixed by adjusting the LSD Deceleration.
        A high setting gives you fast acceleration, but handling is
    reduced. A low setting gives you low acceleration, but handling is
    - Deceleration
        Grip, stability, and turning ability are increased while braking.
    A high setting gives you great grip, stability, and turning ability
    while braking, but all that stuff is reduced while accelerating. A
    low setting reduces grip, stability, and turning ability while
    braking, but that stuff is increased while accelerating. Fix this
    problem by adjusting the LSD Acceleration.
             4.11: Yaw Control System
      This basically controls the distribution of torque between the
    left and right wheels. This is similar to the Limited-Slip Differential
    of cars, and some cars without the LSD have this. If you get this for an
    FF, you you only get the 'Front' sets. If you buy this for an RR or FR,
    you receive only the 'Rear' sets. As for a 4WD, both 'Front' and 'Rear'
    sets are taken.
      A high setting gives the car faster turning speed, but fishtailing
    becomes more common. A low setting gives the car slower turning speed,
    but fishtailing is reduced.
      There aren't many cars with this, and those with it aren't the best
    cars, except perhaps some rally cars.
             4.12: Active Stability Controller
      This controls the overall braking power of all four wheels. This
    stabilizes the car more when cornering and increases grip to the
      A higher setting decreases responsive handling, but increases
    stabilization when cornering and increases grip to the road. While
    a lower setting increases responsive handling, stabilization
    during cornering and grip to the road are reduced.
      This is very similar to the Limited-Slip Differential Initial
    Torque, so just look at that when dealing with this.
             4.13: Traction Control System Controller
      This reduces the delivery of power to a wheel that is losing
    grip to the road.
      A high setting increases overall grip to the road, but decreases
    speed on a straight road. A low setting decreases overall grip to the
    road, but increases speed on a straight road. The TCSC is ideal for
    FRs, RRs, and 4WDs.
      A car with good grip to the road can corner easily while a car with
    bad grip corners difficultly. And if a car has good grip, it is more
    stable and more difficult to spin out and fishtail. A car with bad
    grip is less stable and pretty easy to fishtail and spin out.
    Part 5: Frequently Asked Questions
    Q = Question
    C = Comment
    A = Answer
    1. Q: Is there Drag Racing somewhere in this game?
       A: Sadly, my friends, there isn't. The following is taken from a
          reply I received from JCulbert:
          "Sony officially made a statement saying it was incomplete due to
          time constraints (imagine that)..." and that's why there is no
          Drag Racing in this game.
    2. Q: Does it still count if you use a Car from Simulation in Arcade to
          beat the races and unlock the secrets?
       A: Yes, it does. You don't have to use the cars available, just use
          your cars in Simulation. It's an easy way to win.
    3. Q: Do you have to change your tires to Dirt tires before you enter a
          Rally race?
       A: No, you don't. All you need is to have the Dirt tires bought for
          the Car and enter the race. It automatically puts the Dirt tires
          on for you, but when you go to a non-Rally race, your car will
          have Normal tires on, so be sure to change it before you race.
    4. Q: Where can I find (Car name)?
       A: I'm sorry, this is just a Quick Cash Guide, not a Car list. I can
          help you out as much as I can through E-mail, though. But I don't
          have all cars, yet. Although, I believe there are a LOT of cars
          that aren't in the game. But, since it takes nearly a year for a
          car in Japan to come out in the U.S., the name is changed by
          either a number series or year.
            For example, a Nismo 400R in U.S. might be a Nismo 390R in Japan
          and a '95 model in Japan might be a '96 model in the U.S.
            Actually, now that a list of the cars you can win are up, you
          don't have to ask me. All cars you can't win can be bought, either
          used or new.
    5. Q: What cars do you need to complete Simulation?
       A: Check out the section above this one, Section #6: Cars I Won and
          Bought. It doesn't have all the cars, though, since only 100 cars
          can be in your garage. So get around 90, sell your excess cars,
          and by one car at a time just to beat the races a car company
          sponsors. Then sell that car when you're done.
    6. Q: Why can't I get a Gold Cup for the races?
       A: A Silver Cup denotes you won the race. You can't get Gold or
          Bronze. It was the same in GT.
    7. Q: Why doesn't it save my record times?
       A: It won't save it on Simulation. The records are for Time Trial in
          Arcade Mode. If you play Time Trial in Arcade Mode and save the
          game, it'll be in Simulation for the course you played Time Trial
          in, but it has to be the same amount of laps for total race time,
          but for Fastest Lap, it doesn't matter.
    8. Q: What does that green/yellow symbol in the Game Status screen
          represent in the lower-right corner?
       A: If you do Data Transfer (Convert) from Gran Turismo data to Gran
          Turismo 2 and haven't done the License tests for B and A yet, then
          the tests of those licenses will have the symbol. But you have to
          pass the B and A license tests in Gran Turismo. It means you
          converted data.
    9. Q: Why didn't I get a car when I Converted data?
       A: Look above. I never said you get a car when you 'Convert' data. That
          green/yellow symbol doesn't mean 'Gold.' You didn't win a car simply
          because you Converted data. The symbol has to be 'Gold' in order for
          it to be 'Gold.' You still have to take the tests and get 'Gold' to
          win a car.
    10. Q: How do you win the other cars in a race that has more than one
           car to win?
        A: The car you win is completely random. There is some probability
           involved, but it never increases until you do certain things. To
           do that, you can get a certain completion status percentage and/or
           beat another race then try the race you were going after first
           again. Another thing is using one of the other car(s) you won in
           that race. One more, use another car from another company in the
           same city. Remember, it's random.
             Also, if you can, try to do another race before trying to get
           the car you didn't get. I got the [R]Impreza Rally Car in the
           Grand Valley endurance race by beating two city races (car
           company-sponsored races), then using the [R]R390 GT1 LM Race
           Car '97. Then I got the [R]GT90 in the Seattle Circuit endurance
           race by doing the same and using the [R]Dodge Concept Car LM
           Edition. Then to get the Lancia Stratos in the Apricot Hill
           endurance race, I just went directly to it using the [R]FTO LM
           Edition. For the [R]GT-ONE Race Car '98 in the Gran Turismo World
           League, I used the [R]Calsonic GT-R GT '99 to win.
    11. Q: How do you sell your cars?
        A: Go to the Garage, select the car, and there is an icon that says
           'Sell' next to 'Get in.' Select 'Sell' and you'll get a choice
           to sell the car or not.
    12. Q: Is there a silver trophy when you beat an Event Generator race?
        A: Apparently, the silver trophy symbol hasn't appeared when I beat
           the Event Generator races.
    13. Q: Is there any way to sort your cars in your Garage?
        A: Thanks to Dave <tsu-na-mi@home.com> for submitting this. Yes,
           there is. It isn't very easy, but highlight a car and push
           [Start]. That highlighted car will go all the way to the top of
           the whole car list. It takes planning since you have to build
           the list from bottom-up instead of top-down. Also, if you push
           'Left,' you'll move up one page and if you push 'Right,' you'll
           move down one page.
    14. Q: Where's Chrysler?
        A: Thanks to Chris F. for this stuff. Chrylser is represented in GT2
           as Dodge and Plymoth. And since the merger of Mercedes-Benz and
           Chrysler, it is now Daimler Chrysler, so if you want to get
           technical, Mercedes-Benz is part of the same company. The companies
           owned by Daimler Chrysler (Plymouth, Dodge, etc. and Mercedes-Benz)
           still use the same names just for familiarity among the public. The
           merger with Plymouth will end in one to three years.
    15. Q: Does Time Trial Mode (Arcade Mode) affect your game in Simulation
           in anyway such as %?
        A: No, it doesn't. It just gives you bragging rights to your
           friends. Nothing special.
    16. Q: When you beat every track on Hard for Arcade Mode, you're done,
        A: Uh huh. If there is a [R] symbol to the left of the course name,
           you've unlocked the reverse of that course. And if there is a
           yellow highlighted car icon to the right of the course name,
           then you've unlocked a car.
    17. Q: What do you unlock when you completely beat Arcade Mode?
        A: Thanks to Wolf for this as well:
    Class S
     Aston Martin V8 Vantage        FR  550 HP
     Dodge Viper GTS                FR  449 HP
     Jaguar XKR Coupe               FR  369 HP
     Lister Storm                   FR  593 HP
     Renault Clio Sport V6 24V      MR  249 HP
     Ruf CTR 2                      4WD 571 HP
     Shelby Cobra Daytona Coupe     FR  389 HP
     TVR Tuscan Speed Six           FR  359 HP
     Vector M12                     MR  490 HP
     Venturi Atlantique 400 GT      MR  408 HP
    Rally Cars
     Corolla Rally Car                           4WD 294 HP
     Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution V Rally Car     4WD 285 HP
     Subaru Impreza 99 Rally Car                 4WD 295 HP
     Ford Focus Rally Car                        4WD 299 HP
     Peugeot 206 Rally Car                       4WD 294 HP
     Toyota Celica GT Four Rally Car             4WD 261 HP
     Nissan Pulsar Gti-R Rally Car               4WD 231 HP
     Mazda Protege Rally Car                     4WD 241 HP
     Subaru Impreza Rally Car                    4WD 281 HP
     Citroen Saxo Rally Car                      FF  197 HP
     Lancia Delta HF Integrale Rally Car         4WD 266 HP
     Opel Tigra Ice Race Car                     4WD 418 HP
     Renault Megane Rally Car                    FF  221 HP
     Toyota Celica GT-Four Rally Car             4WD 251 HP
     Toyota Celica GT-Four Rally Car             4WD 295 HP
     Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution III Rally Car   4WD 256 HP
     Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IV Rally Car    4WD 276 HP
     Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VI Rally Car    4WD 293 HP
     Daihatsu Storia X4 Rally Car                4WD 152 HP
     Ford Escort Rally Car                       4WD 299 HP
     Lancia Stratos Rally Car                    MR  236 HP
     Peugeot 306 Rally Car                       FF  221 HP
     Mini Cooper 1275 S MK1                      FF   73 HP
     VW Golf Rally Car                           FF  221 HP
    17. Q: How do you change the speedometer to KPH from MPH?
        A: You can't, at least in the U.S. version simply because that's
           what the U.S. uses, they don't use the metric system so those
           are the regulations.
    18. Q: Where do you put the GameShark codes in?
        A: If you ask me a question like that, then you probably don't even
           have a GameShark. I won't answer it, I don't have a GameShark.
           I'll tell you a little something about it:
           I don't own a GameShark nor am I a GameShark technician. GameShark
           is a non-Sony endorsed third party product designed to cheat with
           games. If you don't have the peripheral, then, of course, you can't
           put GameShark codes in. There are variations of GameShark as well
           as a Pro Action Replay. The GameShark comes with instructions if
           you buy it legally somewhere, right?
    19. Q: Can you race against computer-controlled cars in Rally races?
        A: Sadly, you can't. That really sucks, no action when racing against
           a ghost car, and it's programmed and it's path never changes. It
           should change in GT2000.
    20. Q: Is 98.25% the max completion for Simulation?
        A: Yes, it is. Drag Racing was taken out of the game and that would
           have filled in the last 1.75%. They probably really took it out
           because they don't have many new things to put in GT2000. Now
           wouldn't it be interesting if they also had motorcycle racing
           in GT2000? I mean, sure, it's not really Grand Touring, but it
           could be something to consider.
    21. C: I gave this game a bad review because there is no point system,
           I can't hear the music, the driving is too realistic, and it's
           hard to get a lot of money.
        A: Point system? Oh, you must be talking about a series of races
           together and the winner is determined by how many points you get.
           You probably reviewed this game by only playing a few hours, like
           magazine reviewers, who jump to conclusions. There is this
           'point system' you talk about. Check out the races that say
           "(race series)" in the 'Races and Cars Won' section.
             And as for you not being able to hear the music, perhaps you
           should go to the 'Options' in the main menu and turn down the
             The driving too realistic? Hilarious. You haven't seen anything
           yet. Maybe you should buy 'Simulation' tires and you'll see how
           hard driving really is. Plus, it is, after all, a racing
             Is it truly hard to get money? You haven't read my Quick Cash
           Guide, have you?
    22. C: Ridge Racer Type 4 is a much better racing game than Gran
           Turismo. The graphics are much better.
        A: Do you really think so? Maybe you are right. But it isn't a
           "Gran Turismo killer." I played R4 at a friend's house and the
           driving is really unrealistic: it's difficult to spin out and
           the turning is like Speed Racer. The graphics...better than GT?
           No. Better than GT2 (not car-wise)? Probably.
             Actually, if you checked it out, GT and R4 have sprites, it's
           just they use more dots per centimeter or so, so it doesn't
           look like a sprite.
    23. Q: Can you give me some GameShark codes for the Endurance races?
        A: Yes, I will. I know you can beat computer by at least three laps
           when you finish the race, so why not make it easier to just use
           a code and beat them much more quickly? Thanks to Wolf
           <mungo@aon.at> for all of this stuff as well. Here it is:
          D00A99AC 0000
          800A99AC 00??
          05 = End of 5th Lap
          1E = End of 30th Lap
          27 = Start on 40th Lap
          31 = Start on 50th Lap
          3C = End of 60th Lap
          59 = Start on 90th Lap
          62 = Start on 99th Lap
          Where the "??" is in the second line of the code, you input one
          of the things under the second "??" and to the right of them it
          explains what the code does.
      Have any questions or if you can help me answer any questions that
    need confirmation, then E-mail them to lbdangc@aol.com
    Part 6: Special Thanks
    Wolf <mungo@aon.at>:
      He sent me a list of all the races and cars you win from them, plus
    all of the cars he won and bought to complete Simulation. He's 98.25%
    done with it. Oh yes, and he also sent me GameShark codes for the
    Endurance races. It's in the Frequently Asked Questions section,
    Question #23.
    Ramon <raralio@hotmail.com>
      Correcting me on the Toe tune-up section. Also told me adjusting Toe
    may wear out the tires quickly in races that allow tire damage.
    Red Phoenix <red_phoenix_1@hotmail.com>
      The little 'Dragon' ASCII art in the Author Information section.
    Brett "Nemesis" Franklin <brett17@ignmail.com>
      Cool guy with a great FAQ. Has a lot of information. Check it out.
    John Culbert <tigeraid@fighters.net>:
      His Gran Turismo 2 Compendium. It's a great guide with a lot of
    information. Check it out for everything except for a way to get quick
    Kao Megura:
      His old disclaimer which I'm using
    Part 7: Author Information
                   .      .
              '    }\    /{    '
             / \   ) \__/ (   / \
            /   \  (*\  /*)  /   \
           /     \_ \    / _/     \
          (        \|\../|/        )
          /         | VV |         \
         /          Dan GC          \
        /                            \
       (       LB Dan GC@aol.com      )
        \                            /
       /          Web Page          \
      /           ¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯           \
     /           The Shrine           \
    (     http://come.to/theshrine     )
     |  /\  /~\|T|\/~\/~\/|T|/~\  /\  |
     | /  \/   '|'   ))   '|'   \/  \ |
     |/             ((               \|
     '               )\               '
    "You're funny. But keep it up and you'll just piss me off." ~ Xenogears'
    Don't plagiarize! It's bad! And always give credit where it is due!
    Unpublished Work Copyright (c) 2000 Dan GC

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