M-O-N-S-T-E-R R-A-N-C-H-E-R 2 A-D-V-A-N-C-E-D F-A-Q V-1.2 By 2cool2live (email@example.com, http://mrrealm.monster-rancher.com) If you like this FAQ, you'll love my site (Doncha love shameless plugs? ;-) Oh, by the way, my site is down right now, FTP troubles and all, so if it doesn't work, don't worry, try back in a few hours or a day and I should have things straightened out. Monster Rancher 2 Raising/Advanced Info FAQ- The easy way to beat Most, Poritoka, Hammed, Akirel, or any other weakling compared to your soon-to-be champion monster. You'll be walking over them, I can almost guarentee it. I did with 2 monsters to date, and I've done this with about 5 monsters (Some of em aren't finished being raised). Also, this information you will find, is almost impossible to find without PLENTY of research, which me and some friends have done over the past few months. TABLE OF CONTENTS: 1. The 2cool Raising Method 2. Monster Lifespans 3. Stat Aquisition 4. Advanced Item List 5. All sorts of other miscellaneous info Oh yeah, pretty much all of the information later in this FAQ was discovered by Dark Phoenix and RNA, but I have added to it and put in some facts/theories of my own. Thank you to you guys. FOREWORD: I have been recieving lots of the following questions. I will answer them here to save myself some stress. Become an IMA official: That means the monster on the disc, you have not yet obtained. Take Dragon for instance. You can't get it off a CD until you battle Lagirus for the Dragon Tusk. It's the same with every other monster, except the ones that you can get off without meeting special requirements, like Zuum or Mocchi. What the God Slate does: Nothing. It's left over from MF (Monster Farm, the Japanese version) I won't answer any questions about how to get monsters, how to get certain items, etc, because those are answered in almost every other MR2 faq out there. This will expand to show how to get them, but I put first things first and work on the advanced part. I do appreciate submissions if you use my method, and charts and lists and stuff, but CD Lists won't get listed here, and I know almost EVERY tip/trick/cheat there was about this game, so save both you and me some time and remember, I know almost everything about Monster Rancher 2. THE 2COOL RAISING METHOD Well, I'm writing this because a lot of people that have bought Monster Rancher 2, and find their monsters croaking as early as 2 or 3. Well, you know how Pixies have short lifespans? With this method, mine lived 8 years, had 6 techniques, bested Most with Lightning, a D/A/E/E move, which took over 650 HP from him. I had an Ape right off a CD live 9 years and have an average of 700 in all stats. Anyway, this method is for anybody. It's a little expensive, but works with almost ANY monster, but works best with long living ones. The other information here will help ANY raiser/battler/breeder, newbie or master. Here are some examples: Chloeth: Pixie/Wracky Life: 350 Power: 150 Intelligence: 999 Skill: 999 Speed: 999 Defense: 500 It lived 8 years. It beat Most. Not bad for a Pixie, eh? It also used a Silver Peach it earned. Tsazenth: Durahan/Dragon Life: 600 Power: 850 Intelligence: 75 Skill: 500 Speed: 25 Defense: 650 It lived 6 years, it wasn't my best example since short-lived Dragon was it's sub-breed. Ametheus: Henger/Metalner Life: 500 Power: 850 Intelligence: 150 Skill: 900 Speed: 200 Defense: 500 It lived 6 years, and was the first to beat Legends Cup. It was one of the earlier monsters I did when I was still making my raising guide, but nonetheless it kicked total butt. And the pride of my little collection... Honky-Tonk: Ape/Plant Life: 900 Power: 900 Intelligence: 300 Skill: 700 Speed: 700 Defense: 999 It lived 9 YEARS! It beat Poritoka, it beat the Major 4 twice, it had 100 wins, and it was 1st generation right off a CD! The power of the 2cool raising method! Monsters other people have raised: Tank: Golem/Zuum Life: 550 Power: 850 Int: 100 Ski: 200 Spd: 100 Def: 450 It lived 5 years 3 months. It got to A class but couldn't pass since Skill wasn't high enough to hit Kitty, but it is still a great example. Anyway, how do you get a monster like this for YOU? It's a schedule of training and item usage, which lets you get in a lot more training without making it too tired or stressed, and keeping it alive for the max amount of time. Key: HD is Heavy Drill. This includes Pull, Swim, Leap, and Meditate. LD is Light Drill. Domino, Dodge, Shoot, Run, Study, and Endure. Something/Something Choose either depending on how your monster is doing, or your preference. NO is Nuts Oil. It reduces Fatigue, you can buy it from the shop. ML is Mint Leaf. It reduces stress, and since stress lowers your monster's lifespan, these indirectly make it live longer. ET is Errantry. A month of training, with a little less stat gain than a true Heavy Drill. Costs $2000 ($1000 on discount) and has a chance of earning a new technique. Increases Fatigue and stress a LOT, and you can't use items during it. RT is Rest. If you don't know what this is, try playing Monster Rancher 2. Takes a whole week but largely reduces Fatigue and Stress. -- is Anything. Nothing, or anything you want it to have (Gold Peach, Silver Peach, etc). [HD HD RT HD] is A training schedule. The upper is drills/rest/errantry, and the lower is item using. [NO NO -- --] Some prelimenary guidelines: I expect you to have at least SOME experience playing MR2. This is not for total newbies, this is for people who's monsters are dying too quickly, or are living long enough but have horrible stats, and don't know what to do. You will feed it a Tablet every month, but if you're VERY short on money, like below $1000, feed it Fish. Try to pick good breeds. Hengers live longer than Galis and have just as good moves and stats. Now, you can pick most any monsters for this. However, there are a few sub- breeds you should use for this to work best, and to keep your monster alive for as long as possible. Sub-breeds you should try to have (In order of most to least): Power: Golem Durahan Intelligence: Wracky Plant Mock Kato Skill: [Pow] Durahan Arrowhead Baku [Int] Mocchi Suezo For example, instead of having a Golem/Golem, try to have a Golem/Durahan or Golem/Arrowhead. Or instead of a Pixie/Joker, a Pixie/Wracky. Anyway, this is the plan: Birth (Right after unlocking from a CD or after combining or buying from Market) to Adolescence (Getting 15 or more in it's best HD): For a baby, what you'll want to do, is this raising schedule: LD RT HD/LD LD NO ML -- NO What I would do, is use: Run, Shoot, Rest, Shoot That way, 2 fairly hard to raise stats will be boosted a bit by the time you reach Adolescence. To check to see if your monster is old enough to raise the normal way yet, save your game, make it do it's best Hard Drill (For a Golem, Pull, for a Pixie, Meditate, etc) and if it gets a score below 15, reload, and then do as you were doing. If it gets 15 or higher without a 'Great!' then you should go to the REAL raising process, where you can get up to 90 points a month. Adolescence (Getting 15 or more in it's best HD) to Old Geezer (Stat gain deteriorates) HD HD/LD Rest HD NO NO ML -- Let me explain what this does. The Hard Drills give you as much training for your time as possible. Try to check the list labeled Stat Aquisition at the bottom, which shows approximately how much each monster gets in each drill. These Hard Drills increase Stress and Fatigue a LOT, so that's why you start using a lot more items. You need Rest to maintain weight, fatigue, and keep stress down. If your monster is still pretty young (Like under a year and a half) or life/skill isn't high enough, then you would probably want to replace the 2nd week with a Light drill. The Nuts Oil and Mint Leaves are there simply because if they weren't, stress and fatigue would accumulate very quickly, and eventually take off a few months if not a year from your monster's life. Just keep doing this. You can battle as much as you want, and go on errantries, but make sure the errantries give you a technique or it's all a waste. When your monster starts failing and getting worse stats, move to the next stage. Old Geezer (Stat gain deteriorates) to Death (Monster falls and stops living and goes to Monster Heaven) Don't raise your monster with drills anymore. If you just got into this stage, you may raise a little bit and use errantries. What you will do here, is get a Zuum or something from the market. Make sure your monster is frozen. Do something with this Zuum, it doesn't matter if it be drill, rest, or whatever. Try to cut all costs possible. No errantries and feed it Potatoes. Check frequently for battles. When you see one, freeze the Zuum the day before the battle, get the good monster out, rest it, battle it, rest it, and freeze. Save often. Keep doing this until your monster dies. It will get very good stats from battling, and net you plenty of cash. ______ | | | ---- ___ ___ __ | | | | | |\ | | | | | |--| ---- | | \ | -- | | | | | | | | \| | | | | | | ---- _-_ | | | |__| The Info APPROXIMATE MONSTER LIFESPANS This table here shows APPROXIMATE monster lifespans. This is all relative, meaning that if you raised them all the EXACT same way and the EXACT things happened to all of them, how long each of them would live. However, long lifespan is never an excuse to raise a monster like there's no tomorrow, since I guarentee it'll die sooner than you think. A Dragon can live longer than a Wracky, in the hands of the right (or wrong) trainers. Thank you to Dark Phoenix for spending all the time hacking MR2 in and out so we could have this. Very Short Short Normal Above Average Very Long Super Long Dragon Pixie Golem ColorPandora Kato Wracky Gali Centaur Zuum Durahan Mock Joker Beaclon Zilla Arrowhead Plant Monol Henger Bajarl Baku Naga Tiger Phoenix Mew Hopper Gaboo Ape Hare Suezo Ghost Metalner Undine Jill Ducken Mocchi Worm Jell Niton STAT AQUISITION Here is a list of all monsters and their corresponding stat aquisitions in each category: LIF-POW-INT-SKI-SPD-DEF This data was obtained from each of the 38 purebreeds. Each 1st gen purebreed was tested during their prime. For POW, INT, SPD, and DEF, a hard drill was used. For LIF and SKI, a light drill was used. Each drill was tested a number of times, in which an average was obtained. This average was used to rank each monster's stat aquisitions in their corresponding stats. Here is the ranking guide: POW-INT-SPD-DEF(during prime),  = 20pts in hard drill(primary stat only),  = 17-19pts,  = 14-16pts,  = 11-13pts,  = 8-10pts LIF-SKI(during prime),  = 14-15pts in light drill,  = 12-13pts,  = 10-11pts,  = 8-9pts,  = 5-7pts Here is a compilation of all the 38 purebreeds and their stat aquisitions. (ORDER: LIF-POW-INT-SKI-SPD-DEF): 01 Ape: 4-5-1-3-3-5 02 Arrowhead: 4-3-2-3-2-4 03 Bajarl: 3-5-2-4-3-3 04 Baku: 5-4-1-2-1-3 05 Beaclon: 4-5-1-1-2-5 06 Centaur: 3-3-5-5-3-3 07 Colorpandora: 5-2-2-3-4-5 08 Dragon: 3-5-5-3-2-3 09 Ducken: 2-3-3-4-5-2 10 Durahan: 3-5-3-3-1-4 11 Gaboo: 5-5-1-1-5-5 12 Gali: 2-4-5-3-2-2 13 Ghost: 1-1-5-4-5-1 14 Golem: 3-5-3-1-1-4 15 Hare: 3-5-1-2-5-3 16 Henger: 3-4-4-5-4-2 17 Hopper: 1-3-3-4-5-2 18 Jell: 3-3-5-4-2-3 19 Jill: 3-5-5-2-3-3 20 Joker: 3-4-5-5-2-3 21 Kato: 1-1-5-3-5-2 22 Metalner: 3-2-1-5-1-3 23 Mew: 4-2-2-5-5-4 24 Mocchi: 3-3-3-4-5-3 25 Mock: 1-2-5-2-2-2 26 Monol: 2-3-3-2-1-5 27 Naga: 3-5-1-4-2-3 28 Niton: 3-2-2-2-2-5 29 Phoenix: 3-1-5-3-3-4 30 Pixie: 1-2-5-4-5-1 31 Plant: 5-1-3-3-2-5 32 Suezo: 3-2-5-5-3-2 33 Tiger: 1-2-4-5-4-1 34 Undine: 3-1-5-5-5-3 35 Worm: 5-3-3-3-1-5 36 Wracky: 2-1-5-1-5-3 37 Zilla: 4-5-2-1-2-4 38 Zuum: 3-3-2-5-3-3 Possible errors: 1) After many tests, we started to notice that some monsters do better in some drills than others(ie, Dark phoenix noticed that a worm would get 20's in a swim drill but only 5-6's in an endure drill). Because, of this, the list above does not generalize the stat aquisition for each purebreed, rather, it shows the stat aquisition of the monsters in their highest stat-gaining drill. 2) Although encouraged, not many monsters were double-checked. This leads to a lesser accuracy of some breeds. 3) Some monsters showed higher stat aquisitions, than allowed by the ranking scheme(ie, a mock would get 20's in meditate even at childhood). It is suggested that a ranking scheme that allowed a range of 1 - 10 to be used. However, such a range would prove quite tedious when testing. The average gains of a certain drill would have to be pinpointed with much greater accuracy than a range of 1- 5. Conclusion: This list only gives an idea of what each monster is good at. It is by no means, an accurate representation of a purebreed's real stat aquisition. However, it is much more accurate than having absolutely no data on any given monster's stat aquisitions. A combinational monster with a main breed and a different subbreed would have predictable stat aquisitions when analyzed using this list. Thus, this list can be generalized to all monsters in the game. And here is the way to find out sub-breed stat aquisition, made by ME!: Let's say a Monster Type named Goo is 5-5-5-5-5-5, and a Monster Type named Choo is 1-1-1-1-1-1. Combining them Goo first and Choo second, making Goo/Choo, the stats would be about 4-4-4-4-4-4, because since Goo is dominant, instead of an average 3, Goo's dominance adds 1. So average their stats, and if the dominant one has higher Pow, expect 1 more from pow, and if lower Pow, expect 1 less. Like a Golem/Hare would get about 2 in speed, since 5+1=6/2=3-1=2. Durahan: 3 5 3 3 1 4 + Arrowhead: 4 3 2 3 2 4 Divide by 2 7 8 5 6 3 8 3.5 4 2.5 3 1.5 4 Now, if you get *.5, if the primary monster has higher stat aquisition than the secondary, add .5 and if it's lower, subtract .5. If both have 3 or lower in a stat, subtract 1 or .5 if decimal, and it can only go as low as 1. If both monsters are equal in a stat, then the stat stays the same (like Skill stays 3 in this case) So- Lorica's stats should be: Lif: 4 Pow: 5 Int: 2 Ski: 3 Spd: 1 Def: 4 Durahan: 3-5-3-3-1-4 Lorica: 4-5-2-3-1-4 ADVANCED ITEM LIST (With some information to help you understand them better) Stress and Fatigue Stress and Fatigue are rated on a scale of 0 - 100. 0 = no stress/fatigue 100 = max stress/fatigue. This value is altered by items that you give your monster, your actions while raising the monster, stable size, and certain items in your possession. Here are some scales to illustrate. Stress 0 (no stress) <-------------------->100 (runaway) Fatigue 0 (very well) <-------------------->100 (sickness) The closer the stress and fatigue values are to the high end of the spectrum, the greater the danger of the monster running away/getting sick. LOYALTY AND RAISING STYLE Loyalty in Monster Rancher 2 is actually determined by two values, Spoil and Fear. Both of these values are rated from 0 - 100 and loyalty is calculated by determining the average of these two values. Raising style is also influenced by these values. The relationship of these two values determine your raising style, as shown by this chart. Spoil much greater than Fear = Doting Spoil somewhat greater than Fear = Fond Spoil slightly greater than Fear = Soft Spoil and Fear are roughly equal = Even Fear slightly greater than Spoil = Strict Fear somewhat greater than Spoil = Harsh Fear much greater than Spoil = Spartan Note that this dual loyalty system is why trainers that spoil their monsters have trouble getting their monster's loyalty much beyond 50. (The following has been added by 2cool2live. What I am about to say is only a theory, not proven) I also think there is another meter. Attitude. If you spoil it with Apple Cakes, or punish it and constantly feed it Snakes, it will become either "spoiled" or "stricted". Colt will say something when your monster becomes spoiled or stricted. Both of these are generally unhealthy for your monster. Use an Apple Cake to reverse being stricted, and a Smoked Snake to reverse being spoiled. (Now, back to the information) FORM I don't know much yet on how form affect your monster's performance ( I'll do some experiments on this in the future), but I do know that Form is rated on a scale of -100 to +100, illustrated here. (-100, Skinny)<----------(0, Normal)---------->(+100, Plump) NATURE The monster's nature is also rated on a scale form -100 to +100, shown here. (-100, Worst)<----------(0, Neutral)---------->(+100, Best) This value, naturally, determines your monster's general attitude. Now, the items: Mango -10 Fatigue, +1 Form, +1 Spoil, +1 Fear Candy -2 Stress, +10 Form, +1 Spoil Smoked Snake -10 Spoil, +20 Fear, -10 Form Apple Cake +10 Spoil, -5 Fear, +10 Form Mint Leaf -25 Stress, -5 Form, -2 Spoil Powder +5 Fatigue, -24 Form Sweet Jelly +5 Form, -33 Attitude (Like when Colt says "I think it's become too dependant on us", and this is not proven) Sour Jelly +5 Form, +33 Attitude (Like when Colt says "I think we've been too strict on it lately", and this is not proven) Nuts Oil -25 Fatigue, +1 Spoil, +1 Fear Star Prune +20 Fame, +5 Spoil, +1 Form Half Eaten +1 Form Irritator +5 Fatigue, +15 Stress, -1 Form Griever +5 Fatigue, -20 Stress, -1 Form Bay Shrimp +1 Form Incense -1 Stress Shoes -1 Stress Rice Cracker +1 Form Olive Oil -1 Stress, +1 Form Kaleidoscope -1 Stress Torles Water -1 Stress Perfume -1 Stress Stick -1 Stress Bone +1 Form Perfume Oil -2 Stress, +5 Form Wool Ball -1 Stress Cedar Log -1 Stress Pile of Meat +12 Form Soil -1 Stress Rock Candy +1 Form Dummy -1 Stress Ice of Papas -1 Stress Grease -1 Stress Parepare Tea -1 Stress, +1 Form Match -1 Stress Toothpick -1 Stress Playmate -1 Stress Polish -1 Stress Silk Cloth -1 Stress Disc Dish +1 Form Gramophone -1 Stress Steamed Bun +2 Form Razor Blade -1 Stress Ice Candy +1 Form Sun Lamp -1 Stress Silk Hat -1 Stress Half Cake (Only in Japanese version) +5 Spoil, -2 Fear, +5 Form Shaved Ice -12 Stress, +1 Form Sweet Potato -5 Stress, +10 Form Colart Tea -5 Stress, +5 Form Galoe Nut -1 Form Stick of Ice -1 Stress Clay Doll -1 Stress Mock Nut +1 Form Fish Bone +1 Form Colt's Cake +15 Form INSIDE MR2- MISCELLANEOUS INFO FROM THE GAME Technique Chains Sometimes, before going on an errantry, you may notice the Errantry man say "It must be quite difficult" or something of the like. Now, chances are 50 to 1 you won't gain a new technique if he says that. How do you change that? Well, some people have suggested a term called Technique Chains, meaning this. Your Zuum just learned Flame Shot from the Mandy Errantry. You want it to learn Flame Ball. However, you can't get it because the errantry guy says "It must be quite difficult." How do you get rid of that and learn Flame Ball? Well, it's a theory that the people at Tecmo put in a way of keeping you from getting all the techniques at once. In order to "unlock" Flame Ball, you must either raise your intelligence (Since it's an intelligence move), or use Flame Shot a certain amount of times. How many times? Some people have suggested as many as 50. I'm thinking of something more along the lines of 20 times. After that, you're monster should be able to get it's next move from that errantry. Either that, or you need to raise the corresponding Stat, like Pow for the Mandy. However, the Defense errantry, Kawrea, may require you to raise a stat other than defense, or possibly multiple stats in order to gain the technique there. Most techniques are not chained, and some monsters like Tiger have no chains. Monol's moves are almost all chained. Chained moves are almost always similar moves, take Pixie for example. Ray to Megaray to Gigaray. Another theory, is that a subtype of a monster can determine what skills it may, may not, or will be easier to get. For example, a Pixie/Hare can get 1-2 Punch. A Pixie/Tiger can get Lightning. A Pixie/Dragon can get Fire Breath. A Pixie/Kato gets Phantom Claw. A Pixie/Joker can get Death Final. All of these subtypes have those moves, like a Joker has Death Final. Some monsters seem to have a certain subtype to get techniques, or changing the order of them. Natures can affect the easiness of gaining a technique, or whether you get one at all. A happy, laughing face over a technique on the Monster Screen means your monster needs to be Best Natured to get that technique, or it can't. Evil looking eyes mean it has to be Worst Nature. All the Joker's techniques require it to be worst to get them. I personally don't know about how much of this works, like sub-type techniques, but we're all learning. I'll post it up here once I learn anything. Raising Techniques, Peaches, Lifespans, Mint Leaves, Nuts Oil, Natures, and Tablets. A lot of people have been discussing these lately. Azn Beast, which most of you should know, has formulated an famous raising guide to make your monsters live extra long and get better stats. I've made one too, which I like better, although I have yet to try Azn Beast's method. Anyway, I'll be discussing ways to lower Fatigue, Stress, and unhappiness, lengthen lifespan and peak (when your monster gets 18-20 on heavy drills), and to get higher stats. I'm not going to post Azn's Method since I don't have his permission (yet) but I will be sure to try. As soon as mine has covered mostly all parts of raising, I'll post it. The Silver and Golden Peaches both extend a monster's lifespan by about 3-8 months for Silver, and 5-12 months for Gold. They aren't hard to get, on June 2nd, if your monster is 6 years or older, you can compete in the Elder's Cup and get the Silver Peach if you win, and the Gold Peach can be found on the Parepare expedition. Both can be obtained infinite times (some people have gotten more than 1 Gold Peach on a single trip!) but each can only be fed to your monster once. Both peaches used on the same monster at the right times can extend their life by 1-3 years, and it's peak by 1.5-2.5 years. These are both very useful, sell for a lot, and are generally great to have on hand. Now, there has been some controversy over Mint Leaves and Nuts Oil. Nuts Oil relieves a good portion of fatigue, while Mint Leaves slash off a huge chunk of stress. Many people use these in place of Rest, to get more training into their monsters life. Some people think Nuts Oil takes away a small part of lifespan. I disagree, since I have 2 monsters who have had over 170 Nuts Oils and are 5 years old! Some people think the absence of Rest hurts, which I agree with, since Rest will either maintain or fatten your monster, as well reduce stress and fatigue. Natures, whether your monster is good or bad, affect lifespan. Good natured monsters live longer than bad ones. Tablets are another thing people have been talking about. Most monsters love them albeit their description saying they taste ill, they cost 500g, and can only be bought one time at the beginning of the month to feed to your monster. They fatten your monster a slight bit, and take away almost as much stress as a Mint Leaf. Milk shouldn't be given, it's just a cheap (And un-beneficial) way to feed young monsters. Tablets are the most expensive food you can buy your monster, but are also seemingly benefical. Tablets, as their description says, are very healthy. So far, none of these theories have been set in stone, except for the Mint Leaves and Nuts Oil relieving Stress and fatigue, and that Mint Leaves don't decrease life, so there's still discoveries to be made to make your monster the best it can be. Combining I won't be discussing the simple side of combining. I'm going to tell you some things I bet you didn't know... First off, combining for better stats. Some monsters naturally get very high stats when combined. Raise a Pixie/Mock and a Gali/Tiger. Combine them, and try to get a Dryad or and Angel. I did. I ended up with an Angel (Pixie/Gali) with 480 in Int and 420 in Skill. Alone, those are 900 combined. It started with 4 techniques, also. Now, let me combine a Tiger and a Durahan, both of high stats and rank. I get mostly stats between 120 and 200. Now, when Dadge says "This combination is great, nothing should go wrong unless something weird happens." means that you should expect stats 400+ easily. "This combination is unsure." should yield 100- 200 in stats. Trust Dadge. Anyway, if you want to get plenty of techniques, have the monster with more techniques first. If you have a monster with 20 techniques second, and one with 2 first, you'll probably get 6 instead of 16. Also, if you want a monster to live long, try this experiment. Raise a Plant, Kato, or Mock. Raise it in life, and try to feed it the Gold and Silver Peach as instructed above, raise it's life, and get it to live a long life, with Best Nature. Raise any monster you like with a style like the Plant, Kato, or Mock, with peaches, raise stats of your choice. Freeze them both. Combine them both to get the breed of the 2nd monster you trained, or with a Plant/Mock/Kato sub-breed. Raise it well. It should life at LEAST 1 year longer than the other breed of the 2nd monster you trained. Combining the right way, as well as peached parents, can give you much better lifespans. Also, it seems that a monster that is 10th generation, meaning that you got 2 CD monsters, combined them, got 2 more, combined them, then combined the 2 monsters you have, the monster would be 3rd generation. Sorta like you're 1 generation older than your parents, but not older as in age. Anyway, it seems that the higher a generation of a monster, who's parent were all trained, would live much longer than the same monster type off a CD. Combining can be very useful, so use it wisely. Also there are Disk Chips, items gained from expeditions or battle prizes, that are used as secret seasonings (Items used during combining to achieve a certain effect). There are Plant Disk Chips, Golem Disk Chips, and every kind of Monster Disk Chips. They have 2 effects each. A unique one and one that raises the chance of getting that monster mainbreed when combining by about 5 each. Here are the unique results and selling prices, given to me by Zack Man: Battle effects (Like Power or Anger) Tiger: Will- Sells For: $500 Arrowhead: Guard - Sells For: $500 Hare: Grit - Sells For: $500 Suezo: Ease - Sells For: $500 Gaboo: Fight - Sells For: $500 Mew: Hurry - Sells For: $1000 Dragon: Fury - Sells For: $2000 Bajarl: Vigor - Sells For: $1000 +1 on Errantries: Ape: Parepare Err - Sells For: $1000 Jill: Papas Err - Sells For: $1500 Centaur: Mandy Err - Sells For: $2000 Phoenix: Kawrea Err - Sells For: $2000 Zilla: Torble Sea Err - Sells For: $1500 +1 on Heavy Drills: Kato Meditate - Sells For: $500 Wracky: Leap - Sells For: $1500 Beaclon: Pull - Sells For: $500 Niton: Swim - Sells For: $500 +1 on Light Drills: Undine: Study - Sells For: $1000 Ghost: Dodge - Sells For: $1000 Durahan: Domino - Sells For: $1500 Jell: Endure - Sells For: $500 Henger: Shoot - Sells For: $1000 Zuum: Run - Sells For: $500 +50 starting stats: Pixie: Int. +50 - Sells For: $1000 Monol: Def. +50 - Sells For: $500 Worm: Life +50 - Sells For: $500 Naga: Skill +50 - Sells For: $500 Golem: Pow. +50 - Sells For: $500 Ducken: Spd. +50 - Sells For: $1000 Miscellaneous: Colorpandora: (Spoil +50) Starts Fond and with 50 loyalty- Sells For: $500 Metalner: (Fear +50) Starts Harsh and with 50 loyalty- Sells For: $1500 Gali: Nature +50 (Normal starting nature is 1 notch higher)- Sells For: $1000 Joker: Nature -50 (Normal starting nature is 1 notch less)- Sells For: $1500 Mock: Lifespan +10 - Sells For: $2000 Plant: Lifespan +10 - Sells For: $1500 Baku: Weight +50 (Normal starting weight is 1 notch higher)- Sells For: $500 Hopper: Weight -50 (Normal starting weight is 1 notch less)- Sells For: $500 Mocchi: Fame +50 - Sells For: $ 500 Battles Thank you to Baby Bonnie Hood from Monster-Rancher.com's message board for this information. Power (You won't see its true abilities until it's cornered.) - Triggers when your monster is brought down to critical life. Your monster's attacks do more damage while triggered. Good-natured monsters have this. Anger (It becomes easily enraged.) - Triggers when your monster gets hit. Your monster's guts regeneration becomes faster and his withering ability becomes stronger (any withering that his moves do is doubled) while triggered, but he also becomes easier to get hit. Bad-natured monsters have this, which means that a monster can't have both Power and Anger. Also, a Neutral-natured monster has neither Power nor Anger. Ease (It seems confident.) - Triggers when your monster hits your opponent or when your opponent misses your monster. Your monster becomes harder to hit while triggered. Guard (It seems to know how to endure hardships.) - Triggers when your monster gets hit. Attacks on your monster do less damage and your monster's guts regeneration becomes slightly faster. Grit (Giving up is not in its nature.) - Triggers when your monster gets KOed. Regardless of how much damage your monster took when he got KOed, your monster will get back up with 1 Life remaining. A nice lifesaver. Real (It seems to hide its true abilities.) - Triggers when your opponent is brought down to critical life. Guts regeneration really flies and your monster does more damage while triggered. When it wears off though, guts regeneration really slows down and your monster does less damage and takes more damage. This can either be a good thing or a bad thing. Fury (It goes completely out of control when it becomes angry.) - Triggers when your monster gets hit. Guts regeneration and attack damage increases dramatically, but you lose control of your monster while triggered. Fight (It's very passionate.) - Triggers when your opponent's guts is at 99. If your monster hits the opponent with an attack at that point, your monster's guts will instantly become 99. Hurry (It never gives up until the last moment.) - Triggers at the last 10 seconds of a match, I think. From what I hear, your monster moves faster while triggered, but I'm not sure... Vigor (It tend to get elated easily.) - I don't know when this triggers or what it does. Will (Its senses are very keen.) - Triggers when your monster's guts is at 99 and when his Life percentage is equal to or less than your opponent's. When your monster attacks at that point, the guts consumed by the attack is doubled, but I don't notice anything else. It doesn't seem to do more damage or anything. Can anyone help me here? Unity (They share the same mind, and are regarded as a single.) - I have absolutely no idea what this is. Well, I hope you've learned something from all of this. You can contact me with the following: Internet Name: 2cool2live Website URL: http://mrrealm.monster-rancher.com I've removed the ways of contacting me because all I have are dumb questions which are answered on every other FAQ, and almost every Monster Rancher site in existence. Copyright 2000 by 2cool2live. None of this may be used without my, or the respectful owner's permission. All names, such as Tiger, Hopper, Pixie, and Monster Rancher 2 are copyrighted by Tecmo.
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