hide results

    FAQ by Kurapica

    Updated: 05/13/03 | Search Guide | Bookmark Guide

    General description & tips for <Panzer Front bis> on
    Jap version revise here.
    Written on Jul/Aug/Sep-2001.
    1st update on Dec-2001, Jan/Feb/Mar-2002
    2nd update on May/Nov/Dec-2002, Jan/Apr/May-2003.
    By Kurapica.
    {Please note that I write in internet language; do not
    mistake this 4 poor English}
    I never saw the Jap version of Panzer Front, which was
    release on 1999, but I had c an English Panzer Front
    after I got Bis. Which is the 1st game, while this is
    the 2nd of the series.
    I feel this game is an excellent tank simulator; with
    very intense action n fighting, the game is also very
    fast paced (consider a tank game it is fast). Although
    it uses simplified controls, but is still a simulator
    in heart.
    The best way 2 feel the tanks clash-of-armour, besides
    fight with the real thing, is only through simulator.
    But tank simulators base on WW2 are rare even on IBM,
    not 2 mention on PSX. Most of the other tank games are
    either strategy cum war games or simply 2D/3D
    shoot-em-up, not really simulator. So this game is a
    rare gem 4 fans of this category. Maybe I can even
    call it Tank Turismo.  ^_^
    The graphic of all tanks are beautifully done, very
    detailed; however its overall graphics n the 3D
    environments are not as good as Grand Turismo (if
    initially it could license the GT2 graphic engine
    The game physics, however, is good. I don't know does
    this game means 2 create as realistic as real 1 or
    not, but I felt which is realistic enough. The
    developer had also put in a lot of attention into
    details, so u can notice many details in small areas.
    The AI of either side are not stupid. The controls are
    also simple n straight.
    During play, this game has dense atmosphere n
    immersion. It will draw u in, u shall feel the
    surrounding atmosphere n tension - the feeling that u
    are really there! U don’t just simply play a game, but
    has 2 really fight 4 victory or your life.
    I'm not going 2 put up an inch-by-inch walkthrough,
    just description of game & hints. To overcome the
    various missions, u can try it yourself by using
    different combinations n tactics.
    > The Tank select mode is base on 6 imaginary tanks.
    If u prefer real tanks like me, go 2 Tactic mode.
    > The 2nd game has included a construction & story
    mode. I tried story mode a bit, which is base on
    German side. It seems like it tells a panzer commander
    whom had been possessed by *something* n thus fought 4
    the Reich.
    The construction mode can’t build tanks & terrain from
    scratch, but only let u design your own battle field
    layout n put available units into it. It is useful but
    I didn't build a thing. Try it yourself.
    > U can switch any tanks in tactic mode, just point 2
    their name then choose from the list. We can even
    place tanks of different countries into any side, now
    talk about mix-n-match. However we can only choose
    those tanks which were readily available by that
    period (not all are selectable). But doing so the high
    scores will not be saved though.
    > Press shoulder buttons of joypad can manipulate the
    map by enlarge, reduce or tilt them. When the map has
    enlarge & tilt 2 the max, u can study the elevation of
    terrain. This up & down of terrain can be important on
    some missions cos u can take advantage of such
    > On tactical map, the coloured units are:
    Red= enemies
    Pale blue= yourself
    Blue= your units
    Green= uncontrollable units
    > On actual battle field, the different coloured
    markers indicate their position. Those with lighter
    colours mean they're further away (any side) than
    brighter coloured. This game will display their range
    when they’re within 2Km. 
    Actually the distance that this game display is
    inaccurate, they are always too large. The maps are
    probably miniaturized in scale 2 reflect this; I guess
    the scale are miniaturized about 1:15 to 1:20 in size.
    > The 3 difficulty setting in option screen although
    doesn't feel much different except changing the
    controls n parameters, but it'll somehow affect the
    game play. Example - in rookie or veteran difficulty,
    u can switch ammo on the fly. But in ace mode, every
    switch will need 2 reload again. The others will
    mention later.
    > If u set the tanks as damageable in option, then
    besides blown out, the tank can be damaged. They are:
    - Gun= can't fire main gun. Better replay instead.
    - Tracks= the tank can't move anymore. I had notice
    that once any track is damaged, then after certain
    time, that injured tank (excluding myself) will be
    grey out on map n die. I guess which is due 2
    mechanical breakdowns. But I can't figure out how 2
    specifically crippled a tank's track.
    - Turret= turret can't rotate. Not that serious,
    albeit now u have 2 rotate the entire tank 2 aim.
    - Engine= I never encounter this so don’t know what
    will happen.
    > If u play as rookie or veteran difficulty, then
    MG=machine gun, AP=armor piercing round, HE=high
    explosive & HEAT= high explosive anti-tank round.
    APCR/HVAP is a variant of AP, but seems like it is
    more powerful than normal AP at close range while
    becoming weaker than AP at further distance.
    On a German Panzer IV with 75mm length 48 calibers
    gun, probably the effective range of APCR will
    decrease after 1Km; on a German 88mm gun, it will
    still be effective within 2Km, but may decrease after
    HEAT may not be affected by range.
    > Knowing the capabilities of different tanks can be
    helpful. Do the research if u wish. What I find useful
    4 this game are:
    - Armor thickness of individual tank. Their front,
    flank & rear; sloped or rounded is even better.
    - AP firepower of main gun, u need this against enemy
    - Maximum ammos carried.
    - Speed n weight.
    > U can tell the remaining ammos of your blue units by
    looking 8 their numbers in parenthesis. But u can
    never know the remaining ammos of green units or
    > U can control up to 3 other blue units. If u need
    all of them 2 follow, use the formation command. If
    not, use the formation command 1st, then plot the
    waypoint 4 individual unit 2 move; or give it a defend
    command (don't do in reverse way).
    > On tactical map, u can move your blue units by
    Movement command, it came with four speed settings.
    Sometimes u may not need 2 move them that fast 4
    special purposes.
    1 thing to point out is that your blue/green comrade
    vehicles are frequently slower than yours. The
    formation command will make them greatly lag behind u,
    but is much easier 2 use. Plotting their individual
    waypoint will cause them respond faster, but still not
    as fast as your own vehicle.
    > When u issue a Move command, however, if that unit
    encounter enemies within its gun range, it will
    frequently stop n engage them 1st thus ceasing its
    movement (or refuse 2 move 8 all). Sometimes this is
    clever act but most time will only cause trouble by
    disobeying order.
    In this case, if their speed are set at 1 or 2, they
    will mostly stop 2 engage enemies so completely ignore
    your order; if u set their speed to 3 or 4, then they
    may resume their route but do not always work.
    > The blue & green units tend 2 fire at enemies when
    they're within their gun range but still far away (or
    they may fired at undesired targets). This waste up
    some ammos but pity this game had no Hold fire
    command.  :-(
    Although this game does provide a ‘Fire by signal’
    command, but it doesn’t work the way I want. So my
    only way 2 offset this so as 2 conserve their ammos is
    either let my blue units unmoved, or let it drive
    slowly so by the time they arrive, they can be put
    into better use.
    > The ‘Fire point’ command can order those blue units
    2 fire 8 the designated location. Sometime it will
    only fire once then will return 2 its original state,
    or may keep firing several times.
    > When your other blue & green units fight on their
    own, usually they will fire 8 any targets that they
    spot on horizon; then shoot 8 those targets which are
    closest 2 them, then pick the next closest. When doing
    so they will frequently rotate the entire tank n
    turret 2 face the opponents.
    When facing multiple targets by their own, they will
    pick the closest target 1st. Usually infantry will be
    their last priority, even if those infantries are
    > On battle field, units have different use. Their
    purposes n the way 2 handle them are describe below ->
    Tanks= most important unit, star of this game. U have
    2 engage/manipulate them. Use AP or HEAT rounds 2
    destroy them; but sometimes HE will also work if your
    gun is big enough (I ever use HE to pick off the flank
    of several German assault gun by a Sherman 76mm gun;
    or even a T-34/85 head on by HE of a King Tiger).
    Tanks on your side can be your spotter.
    Infantries= cannon fodders. But some missions require
    them 2 capture or defend certain territory. They can
    be your prying eyes on map. Can be killed by HE or MG.
    AT Gun= dangerous 2 tanks, may not harm infantry (some
    can fire HE as well). Use HE or MG 2 smashes it.
    Fire point= can fire AP or MG or sometimes both. Those
    fires AP will threaten tanks. The MG type can kill
    infantry. Fire HE rounds 2 blow them up or simply roll
    over them if it is a soft type. Also can be your
    prying eyes.
    Plane= Fire MG then drop bomb on your head, they have
    good chance of hitting. When they show up they will
    pick random targets, so bunkers n infantries will
    probably be their targets too! No way 2 handle them.
    > AT Guns have a limited traverse angles. So if u can
    approach them from other directions instead of head
    on, they can’t fire 8 u cos which is out of their
    movement. Exception is German Flak 88, which is fully
    Bunkers may capable of firing all around too.
    > On some scenarios like Petrowka & Seelow, the enemy
    will keep firing heavy artillery n this rain won't
    stop. A hit will kill any tank; very irritating!
    On such missions, those artilleries even come with
    homing effect, so they will always follow u or other
    units whenever u go! Let’s hope they don’t hit u.
    > Move 2 supply zone 2 rearm or reshuffle your ammos.
    If u place a blue unit on it permanently then it will
    gain infinite ammo. However it can’t repair any
    > Just like real tanks, tanks are thicker on armor 8
    front while thinner 8 flank n rear. So unless
    surrounded, always keep your front 2 enemies.
    > If u need 2 move your blue unit while it is still
    busily engaging enemies, it is better 2 use the Move
    backwards command instead of Movement (but only if it
    complies). Albeit this will be slower in speed, but is
    safer than exposing their ass while turning away.
    > On some scenarios, u shall receive reinforcement
    tanks. The reinforcement is actually base on a certain
    tank of your unit. E.g. - if your certain tank is an
    assault gun, then the back up will also be assault
    gun; or if a particular tank is a Hetzer, then the
    back up will also be Hetzer. So if u try mix-n-match,
    changing that default tank will alter all the
    > U can try 2 park your tank 8 slightly lower land or
    much higher ground 2 intercept opponents. On 1st case,
    with only gun or turret protruded, your tank will be
    less exposed 2 enemies fire. On 2nd case, the AP may
    drop on their roof whereas which is vulnerable.
    > Smoke bomb can be helpful at times (but pity USSR
    tanks don’t have smoke). I use it on two ways:
    - Fires a smoke bomb 2 obstruct enemies vision when in
    danger (especially if its main gun can kill me).
    - If target is still far away 4 my gun while it can
    kills me instead, fires smoke 2 confuse it until it
    moves into my kill zone or vice versa.
    > Ambush is not easy in this game cos most times the
    enemies will quickly discover u, but it is still
    possible 2 approach an enemy undetected. If u come out
    from a sneaky position or under cover of smoke, if the
    enemy ahead is visible but no red cursor shown, or the
    cursor doesn’t display any number, then it hasn’t
    discover u yet so will not react.
    > I found out several tricks on using smoke 2 hide
    from enemy:
    - Fire a smoke ahead, then go straight through only
    HALF of it, but use binocular/gun view when doing so
    until the enemy is visible through binocular. Usually
    some portion of your tank will still be covered, but
    this will not alert the enemy so u can get a clear yet
    safety shot.
    - Fire two smokes closely in pair so leaving a gap,
    then park 8 the gap between them, u can c him like
    this but he can’t c u.
    - Or keep firing a series of smoke ahead so u can
    drive behind enemy tank, then shoot his ass (pretty
    dangerous move). In most cases, the enemies usually
    won’t react 8 all.
    > Do u feel your main gun isn't effective enough in
    this game? I thought so initially. While the German
    88mm gun was known 2 blow away enemies at beyond 2Km;
    my King Tiger, with its long 88mm can't even destroy a
    M10 at 500m easily. The main points are due 2 their
    sloped armor n the way u aim. Explain below.
    > Aiming= the trick here is 2 aim higher. The physic
    is accurate so only if u aims higher, then the AP will
    hit the intended location. I guess the trajectory of
    fired rounds are flying in arc, so only by aiming
    higher, it will reach targets. Instead if u only aims
    parallel 2 target, say a tank at 1500m, the fired shot
    will lose kinetic energy then drop 2 ground. So unless
    u are 8 kissing range, always aim HIGHER. Play as ace
    difficulty must aim even higher than veteran.
    Basically, the weaker the main gun or the further away
    the target is, the higher u aim! 
    Using this trick, my King Tiger could smash a T34/85
    at 1500m, M4 Sherman at 1600m n once a T34/85 at
    beyond 2Km. Wow!
    > Armour= any sloped armour will make the penetration
    more difficult. If it is both slanted & sloped 8 a
    steep angle then u can hardly nail it. When I drove my
    Tiger I, fire at a T34/85 which was approaching fast
    at 800m->1Km, heading SE from my location. By this
    bearing, its hull was position at about 45º to my gun.
    I fired several shots, but by this angle its steeply
    slanted & sloped hull kept deflect away my AP. Same
    thing if the shell only hit the edge of its rounded
    turret. Now that's physic.
    > Also a fast moving target if it moves sideway
    instead of head on also has a chance 2 deflect the AP.
    Like a fast T34, if it moves toward 3 or 9 o'clock may
    also cause the shots 2 bounce off. Also lead shooting
    will be required.
    I had several such experiences. When I tried 2 shoot
    those T-34/76 by my Tiger I, the firepower of Tiger’s
    88 was suppose 2 be enough 2 knock them out, even
    their sloped front hull. However in truth, the AP just
    couldn’t penetrate if those T-34 are angled like I
    mention above even 8 close range, especially if they
    are still moving. Sometimes the AP will still bounce
    off although I did score a straight hit on their front
    hull - if they are still moving! So at times I could
    only kill them when they are completely idle or choose
    2 aim their turret instead.
    > But we can use the same trick ourselves. Some tanks
    like the German Panzer III/IV & Tiger I just do not
    have sloped armour. If the frontal armour can't
    withstand enemies fire, then try this trick. 1st, park
    the tank head on towards enemy, then turn about 30º,
    lastly rotate the turret 2 engage it. This will create
    an angular & slanted hull on your tank (or try
    approaching diagonally). Let's hope by align it this
    way, the enemy's incoming AP will hit the hull (not
    turret) n bounce off.
    > From my experience, turret is easier 2 penetrate
    than sloped hull. Otherwise the gun mantle of turret
    is usually thicker. Some are even very much thicker. I
    still suggest aim 8 turret in this case.
    But 1 tip, some tanks its frontal underbelly can be
    weak as well. So if u find your Panzer IV can’t
    penetrate the sloped front of a M4 Sherman or M4A1,
    try 2 aim 8 its lower half is another good choice,
    especially 8 short range.
    > The rotation of binocular & gun view is slower than
    exterior view. So if trying 2 aim a moving tank 8
    close range when it rolls pass quickly, it is faster 2
    rotate the entire tank 2 track it instead of just
    turret movement.
    > Some bad terrain like soft bog or snow will greatly
    slow down the speed. This works especially true 2
    heavy tanks. This is very dangerous when being
    surrounded while the rotation n speed has slowed down.
    But USSR tanks, with their lower ground pressure n
    wider tracks have advantage over this.  
    > As above, when stay on such bad terrain but the
    speed 2 move or turn will become very, very slow. If
    the tank is stationary, then the fastest way 2 move it
    n turn altogether 8 the same time is: - press move
    forward 4 about a second, then let go of 1 track to
    let it turn. This will enables the tank 2 move n turn
    all 8 the same time. The tank can also kicks into
    higher gear ratio quicker if doing so.     
    > During the play back moment of a tank's destruction,
    the replay angle of the initial "coming in" is where
    the AP came from. So by looking 8 the play back
    screen, u can tell what direction the AP came from n
    possibly who did this. Plus your units will also
    report their kill.
    > After completing a mission, the game will ask u 2
    save the score only if your current score is HIGHER
    than previous 1.
    > The way this game calculates your score is probably
    base on these factors (I’m not sure)…
    - No. of enemy units destroyed (AT guns, bunkers,
    infantries, tanks). The more u do it yourself, the
    - No. of units lost (penalty).
    - No. of AP fired n hit percentage. HE does not count
    but HEAT will.
    - No. of hits taken.
    - Time used.
    Below is my comment of some tanks. Please note that
    due 2 the fact that this is a game, so the pros & cons
    of some tanks are not entirely reflected. Like the
    durability/reliability of Panzer III/IV, or the
    engine/gear/transmission problems of Panther & Tiger
    are not featured.
    All armours I mention below unless specify are refer 2
    frontal armour.
    Panzer III= not spectacular. Not fast enough 4 a
    medium tank. The armour neither thick enough nor
    sloped (except the side of turret). The Pak 38 50L60
    gun of Ausf J & 75L24 gun of Ausf N is OK 4 its time,
    but can’t destroy T-34 easily. None of them can really
    cope much against T-34, so is OK as a medium tank but
    definitely not top class.
    Panzer IV= same. But some versions like the Ausf H
    came with a Pak 40 75L48 gun which is effective. So u
    can kill enemies while it is still far away b4 it gets
    u, otherwise this tank can’t take much hit by itself.
    StuG III= this German assault gun, especially the G
    version, came with sloped frontal armour plus a Stuk
    40. Its low hull also makes it a hard target.
    Efficient; even 8 late stage of war.
    But the E type is much weaker in armour n gun, plus it
    also carries less ammos so isn’t of much use.
    Jadg Panzer IV= either equips a Kwk 40 75L48 or Kwk 42
    75L70 so is strong in fire power. Its two large glacis
    plate 8 front n low hull can dodge many shots.
    Actually is pretty good, its exterior was also cleaner
    than StuG III/IV. The 70(V) version is slower n carry
    less ammos though.
    Horniness, Marder & Nashorn= a self-propelled gun I
    think. Better use 4 defense or support fire only. Get
    killed easily. As tank destroyer they are not really
    up 2 the task.
    Hetzer= not fast enough 4 a light tank class n its
    flank is also thin. But the entire tank is very
    compact yet sloppy, with its overall sloped armour,
    low silhouette n smallness make it a hard target. Its
    Pak 39 75L48 still packs a punch. A good light tank.
    Panther= rather fast & maneuverable. The Kwk 42 75mm
    gun is also a good gun so it can shoot enemies from
    long range. All armour n turret are sloped (albeit its
    flank is weaker). It was the German’s most balanced
    tank. Nice 2 use.
    Jadg Panther= similar as Panther but with whole piece
    of glacis plate 8 front so is better 8 deflecting AP.
    It comes with a more powerful Pak 43. However the
    chassic is not low enough plus its hull has extend too
    high, so it becomes an even bigger target than
    Elefant= very slow. Not sloped n rather tall but
    fortunately its armour can withstand most fire. The
    Pak 43 88L71 is very, very hard hitting. But the
    overall performance is a mix bag.
    Tiger I= average, no sloped armour but the Kwk 36
    88L56 gun is strong. The speed is OK as a heavy tank
    of such weight, actually it is still faster than other
    heavy tanks class of lighter weight.
    King Tiger= big, slow n tall make it an easy target.
    But overall is sloped in armour like Panther (although
    its turret was oversized); with its thick armour n Pak
    43 made it nearly invincible. Just don't get
    Jadg Tiger= very big n slow. Although its Pak 44 128mm
    gun can fire big HE, but its AP firepower probably is
    weaker than Pak 43 due to shorter gun barrel length;
    plus it can only carry 50+ ammos n the loading is so
    slooowww. Not much use.
    Maus= same as above plus very, very slow. But is supra
    thick n its oversized turret can carry 100+ ammos
    though (including co-axial gun ammos). Not a good
    T34/76= fast, nimble n overall sloppy armour made it
    hard 2 destroy while moving. No wonder it caused so
    much damage 2 German. The T-34 series was the best
    tank of WW2, if only it could improve its frontal
    armour n gun…
    T34/85= same but comes with a larger turret n better
    gun. Now it can kill a Tiger I head on, but the
    loading is also slower; better gave it a British 17
    pounder instead.
    T60= a light tank with glacis plate 8 front n rear.
    But as a light tank neither its speed nor turning is
    fast enough. However is good against AT gun or
    infantry in this game.
    T70= similar to T60 but a bit bigger, taller n
    thicker. Its frontal glacis plate can help deflect
    some AP; the 45mm gun is capable of destroying a weak
    medium tank. Not as good as Hetzer but as a light tank
    it is doing its job.
    KV1= slow heavy tank. Although it is overall thicker
    than Tiger I, but is also slower n the 76mm gun just
    can’t cope up with its stature. Not outstanding, but
    if it could equip something similar to 88 then it can
    be an USSR Tiger.
    JS2= a heavy tank comes with a 122mm gun but is low on
    ammos n very slow on reload, however its gun maybe is
    weaker in AP than German 88. The hull is however low
    enough n can’t easily be penetrated.
    A German 75L48 gun can only nail this tank head on if
    it scores a hit on its turret, n also only 8 pretty
    close range.
    JS2m= similar but with a whole glacis plate 8 front
    instead of collar. Its frontal armour is so hard 2
    penetrate 4 my King Tiger even 8 kissing range. Pose a
    serious threat to Panther & Tiger I. 
    JS3= excellent heavy tank. All armours are sloped,
    with a V-shaped frontal glacis plate, a very low yet
    round turret plus a rather low hull. This thing is
    just impossible 2 destroy from front. Despite some
    drawbacks, probably the best design around (together
    with T-34, which is more balanced). 
    SU85= the chassic of T34 with turret removed 2 convert
    into assault gun. Yet it still retains the
    characteristic of T34. Now it has the mobility & speed
    of T34, firepower n low hull…
    SU152= a heavy tank comes with a very big howitzer, so
    its massive gun can be scary enough…
    M4 Sherman= not as good as T34 n the superstructure is
    high. The 75mm gun although not good enough by its
    time, but still can be of some use if it fires APCR
    M4A1= it is better armoured plus an enlarged turret.
    The 76mm gun packs a punch, watch out!
    M4A3= Sherman with an even larger turret which is
    overall thickly armoured. However it is also slower n
    the gun isn’t big enough. An US KV-1? Or it tries 2 be
    an US Tiger?
    M5= a light tank modify from M3 staurt with a glacis
    plate 8 front.
    M10= a medium tank with good design. Overall sloped in
    armour, with a sleek turret n is also fast. Its 76mm
    gun is also strong. Better than Panzer IV.
    T26 Pershing= a tank with similar looks as those
    Vietnam era US tanks. Actually with its frontal glacis
    plate, low hull n powerful 90mm gun makes it
    outstanding enough. Beside a tad slow, I don’t find
    any weakness with it in this game. 
    Churchill= very slow but thick. Even a Panther or
    Tiger I also had trouble 2 nail it from front by plain
    Cromwell= better than Panzer IV in many respects n is
    very fast. The 75mm gun is the only weak point when Vs
    a Panzer IV.
    Firefly= Sherman fitted with a 17 pounder gun. This
    76mm gun really packs a wallop. It can blows away many
    German heavy tanks head on. What I had experienced
    were Elefant, Jadg Panther, Maus, Panther & Tiger I.
    Get it b4 it gets u.
    Type 1 Chi= nearly the specification of medium tank,
    but only with armour n firepower of a light tank.
    Maybe is equivalent 2 a Panzer III, but is utterly
    obsolete by 1945 standard considering its design n
    firepower. Even worse than USSR T-70.
    Type 3 Chi= same but comes with a bigger turret thus
    enables it 2 equip a 75mm gun. Although still looks
    dated n pretty weak; but consider its small size,
    maybe wasn’t so bad. 
    Type 4 Chi= a bigger tank with thicker armour. It also
    has a sleeker turret n the barrel of the 75mm gun is
    longer. Perhaps it can put up a better fight.
    The other imaginary tanks are probably better than
    these WW2 tanks. Use them may make an easier game.
    T80= a tank looks like a large Playstation. The hull
    is very low n the turret is also very flat. This
    creates a very low silhouette thus making it a hard
    Type 90= fast n very responsive. But since all of its
    armours are of vertical design, so it can only rely on
    its natural composite armour 4 defence. This will be
    OK if its armour is tough enough 2 withstand enemies
    fire; but from my playing experience Vs those T80, it
    isn’t. Looks a bit like M1 Abrams.
    The difficulty of those built in missions vary. On
    some missions, 2 win will requires careful
    manipulation n planning (plus some luck); or use your
    other units as decoy or expendable assets. Otherwise
    just keep trying or use different tactics.
    There is actually no fix way 2 play this game so I
    don’t write any walkthrough.
    On the case of 1st time player, I suggest start as a
    German. Most of the German heavy tanks are thick
    enough 2 withstand enemies fire n their firepower can
    blow away oppositions from long range. Their biggest
    threats are too many enemies keep flooding in, even
    from different directions so can quickly get
    overwhelmed. Otherwise u can have a good practice in
    shooting from afar (spell as safety range).
    P.s. I don't know is there any cheats in this game or

    View in: