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    Getting Started Guide by Wolf Feather

    Version: Final | Updated: 01/19/03 | Search Guide | Bookmark Guide

    Wolf Feather/Jamie Stafford
    Initial Version Completed: December 15, 2002
    FINAL VERSION Completed:   January 19, 2003
    Spacing and Length
    The Initial Car
    General Tips
    Input from Others
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    Tokyo Extreme Racer Zero is an intriguing game - similar to
    the PlayStation game Tokyo Highway Battle, but far more
    developed and with much more highway to explore.  Also, the
    CPU-controlled Rivals are far more challenging and varied,
    employing a wider array of tactics in their own attempts to
    win each battle.
    One of the most interesting aspects of the game (to me) is
    that it shows the complexity of the highway system of a major
    urban area.  The initial course is especially intriguing in
    this respect, and it is rather interesting to compare the
    game version of the highway to a map of Tokyo.
    Something that may take many players by surprise is that the
    Japanese road and highway system is designed to drive on the
    left-hand side of the roadway/highway.  In Tokyo Extreme
    Racer Zero, this never comes directly into play.  And, only
    in rather rare cases can the player even SEE the opposite
    direction of the highways (which amazingly NEVER has any
    This guide is intended to help those just beginning with
    Tokyo Extreme Racer Zero.  Granted, I wrote a guide on the
    game in Fall 2001 (Tokyo Extreme Racer Zero: Game Guide), but
    this guide will also include information related to the
    questions I have received most often in e-mails from readers
    of my Tokyo Extreme Racer Zero: Game Guide.  Some information
    in this guide comes from my Tokyo Extreme Racer Zero: Game
    Guide and from my General Racing/Driving Guide, both
    available in full at GameFAQs (http://www.GameFAQs.com/) and
    FeatherGuides (http://feathersites.angelcities.com/).
    After enjoying the opening movie of the game, players are
    forced to purchase a car.  The initial car choice is
    important, as it should be a vehicle with which a player will
    feel very comfortable immediately.  Specifically, the player
    should choose a car type with which she or he is already
    familiar from other driving games.  In my case, I am rather
    adept with 4WD vehicles in the Gran Turismo series, so my
    first cars were 4WD vehicles (TYPE-CE9A and TYPE-CP9A6M).
    The initial car choice in a game like this flows into two
    schools of thought.  Since the player begins the game with a
    given amount of cash ($15,000 in the North American version
    of the game), the player can either: A.) buy the most
    expensive car the player can afford, or B.) buy a less
    expensive car and start making upgrades to the car
    immediately.  This choice is really based upon personal
    preference.  Fortunately, most Class A cars available at the
    start of the game can easily defeat the first 5-10 Rivals the
    player encounters without requiring any immediate parts
    upgrades, so since initial income flow is practically
    'guaranteed,' it really does make sense to start with the
    most expensive Class A car that a player can afford (the
    TYPE-CE9A, costing $14,750 and meaning that the player will
    not be able to buy any upgraded parts); this will be a
    powerful car initially, and the player will still attain
    money to make some nice upgrades to the vehicle.
    If a player follows the second school of thought concerning
    initial car selection, the first parts the player should buy
    are tires.  The player should ALWAYS buy the best possible
    tires affordable at a given time.  Better tires mean more
    traction, which means both less wheel spin (resulting in
    better acceleration) and better cornering at high speeds.
    Even if racing a higher-power car, if a player' car has
    better tires, the player can take advantage of corners to
    catch up and pass the Rival.  As the player progresses
    through the game, if new sets of tires are made available (by
    beating certain Rivals), it is important to buy them
    Once the player has bought a car and made any initial
    upgrades in the Parts Shop, the player should go to the
    Settings screen and make any adjustments necessary, then
    leave Quest mode (saving game progress) and go to Free Run.
    Here, the player should learn the initial course in both
    directions, so that there will not be any surprises upon
    return to Quest mode to begin challenging other drivers.
    Using Free Run, the player will also be able to discern if
    the Settings need to be adjusted, and the player may also
    begin to notice which new parts to buy next once enough money
    has been acquired to do so.  However, Free Run does not
    include ANY traffic on the highway, so if the player needs to
    make adjustments to the car, it is important to consider how
    the changes will affect car handling when weaving in and out
    of traffic.
    When ready, the player should then go to Time Attack and
    complete a few rounds there on each course.  While the player
    may not necessarily be driving at top speed in Free Run, this
    WILL occur in Time Attack - after all, that IS the point of
    Time Attack.  This will allow the player to set a few records
    to start with, and will also give an idea of how the car
    handles at top speed.  it is especially important to note how
    to best use the car in cornering.  If the player wants to
    tune the car (especially gear ratios, if applicable), this is
    perhaps the best place to do it.
    Now the player is ready to go back to Quest mode and take on
    a few Rivals!!!  In Quest mode, the player can return to the
    Garage when necessary to add parts and change settings.
    Also, periodically (perhaps every 20-30 minutes), the player
    should save game progress (System menu), just in case the
    electricity goes out, little siblings squirt the console with
    a water gun, etc.
    The premise of Tokyo Extreme Racer Zero is rather simple: The
    player must locate, challenge, and defeat all illegal highway
    racers in Tokyo.  Of course, this is easier said than done.
    Obviously, this will be easier at the beginning of the game,
    and more difficult as the game progresses.
    Rivals fall into various categories.  The largest category is
    that of Gang Member.  Many illegal highway racers are part of
    a racing gang (think of the motorcycle gang Rivalry in the
    Akira manga and anime).  Gang Members will ALWAYS accept a
    player's challenge (by flashing the high beam headlights when
    directly tailing the Rival).  Should the player defeat a Gang
    Member, the player will be rewarded with a meager amount of
    money, but certainly not much.  However, defeating all the
    members of a given gang will collectively amount to a nice
    sum of money overall.  Note that each Gang Member bears the
    emblem of the gang on the car; this emblem is also shown
    underneath the Rival name in a battle/race.
    Next above the Gang Members is the Gang Leader, who bears the
    emblem of the gang as well.  Once all the regular Gang
    Members of a gang have been defeated, the Gang Leader will
    suddenly appear behind the player (flashing the high beam
    headlights in the traditional challenge signal) and the
    battle will shortly commence.  Gang Leaders award more money
    than Gang Members when defeated.
    The next category is that of the Wanderers.  These are
    essentially ronin, lone illegal highway racers with no gang
    affiliations or allegiances.  Most Wanderers have specific
    requirements that a player must first meet before they will
    accept a player's challenge to battle; this can range from a
    minimum number of miles on the player's car to racing on a
    particular day number (such as every eleven days) to a
    particular type of car.  Each Wanderer has her or his own
    emblem.  When defeated, Wanderers pay more than Gang Leaders.
    Above the Wanders are the Boss Gang Members.  These Rivals
    suddenly appear behind the player (using the appropriate
    challenge signal) at pre-determined times throughout the
    game; this generally coincides with the number of Rivals the
    player has defeated overall to that point in the game.  Boss
    Gang Members bear the emblem of their gangs, also pay nicely
    when defeated.
    Finally, once all regular Boss Gang Members have been
    defeated, the Boss Gang Leader will suddenly appear behind
    the player to make a challenge.  Boss Gang Leaders pay VERY
    handsomely when defeated, but are also often extremely tricky
    to defeat.
    Note that defeating certain Rivals in the game will unlock
    new levels of parts in the Parts Shop.  Also, defeating
    certain Rivals will unlock those vehicles in the Car Shop.
    It is possible for the player to be challenged by several
    Rivals in a row.  After defeating the last regular Gang
    Member of a gang, the Gang Leader may appear.  If the Gang
    Leader is defeated on the first attempt, a Boss Gang Member
    may appear.  If that Rival is defeated on the first attempt,
    the Boss Gang Leader may appear.  Working swiftly through
    this barrage of Rivals will result in the player receiving a
    MASSIVE amount of money in little time :-)
    Finally, a player can check which Rivals have been defeated
    by selecting the Rival menu option in Quest Mode.  From a
    Rival's information screen, that Rival can be challenged in a
    direct head-to-head competition.
    There are three 'courses' in Tokyo Extreme Racer Zero.  These
    are not three separate courses; rather, the second course is
    added onto the first, and the third course is added onto the
    The initial course is essentially a circle, with a tricky
    alternate route along its southern edge.  This initial course
    is comprised primarily of twists and turns, and is almost
    exclusively in the tunnels along its northern edge.  The main
    part of the course along the southern edge contains two
    places in each direction where bridge pillars bisect the two-
    lane highway, so the player must memorize the location of
    these two pillars and be ready to take evasive actions to
    avoid them - however, forcing a Rival into one of these two
    bridge support pillars is an excellent tactic to practically
    guarantee winning a battle :-)
    The initial course's southern alternate route runs through an
    area known as Yaesu.  This has two sections: the lower
    eastern section through the tunnels, and the higher western
    section in the open air twisting between the skyscrapers.
    The tunnel section is relatively high-speed, whereas the
    open-air section is VERY twisty and difficult for passing,
    which makes it a great place to maintain a lead but a
    TERRIBLE place to try playing catch-up.  When running
    clockwise on the initial course, it is possible to bypass the
    tunnel section and gain access to the open-air section; when
    running counterclockwise, it is possible to again bypass the
    tunnel section and drop from the open-air section back to the
    main course.
    After the player has defeated three members of the Thirteen
    Devils Gang, the second course will be made available.
    However, this is not done 'directly' in the game itself.
    Defeating the third of the Thirteen Devils will force the
    player to return to the garage; the next time the player
    returns to the highways, the second course will then be made
    The second course is essentially a southern addition to the
    initial course.  Much of the second course is also twisty,
    but its southernmost section is primarily a high-speed
    straight run.
    After the player has defeated nine members of the Thirteen
    Devils Gang, the third course will be made available.  Again,
    this is not done 'directly' in the game itself.  Defeating
    the ninth of the Thirteen Devils will force the player to
    return to the garage; the next time the player returns to the
    highways, the third and final course will then be made
    The third and final course is essentially an eastern addition
    to the other courses, connecting the southwestern point of
    the initial course with the southwestern point of the second
    course.  The third course, is LONG, running out toward
    Yokohama.  The northern and western lines of the third course
    is primarily composed of curves, whereas the southern line of
    the third course is mostly straight and high-speed; the
    northern and southern lines alternate between tunnel sections
    and open-air sections, and each contains one area of toll
    booths which can be difficult to navigate and avoid at high
    speeds (especially along the southern line).
    Because most of the highway sections in Tokyo Extreme Racer
    Zero feature many corners connected by rather brief
    straightaways, the player should probably use medium-high or
    high downforce, strong acceleration and braking, the highest
    level of tires the player can afford, and low gear ratios
    (which provides faster acceleration).  However, for the
    straight, high-speed sections, longer gear ratios (providing
    higher top-end speed), the lowest-possible downforce, strong
    acceleration, and the highest level of tires the player can
    Be On the LookOut for the following:
       Bridge support barriers: Along the southernmost run of the
       initial course are two sets of bridge support barriers in
       each direction of the highway. Obviously, slamming into
       one of these bridge support barriers will cause the
       player's car to bounce backward - and to lose if currently
       involved in a battle with a Rival.  Similarly, if the
       player is trailing a Rival, it is important to give the
       Rival some room when  approaching the bridge support
       barriers, just in case the Rival slams into a bridge
       support barrier, to avoid any potential Rival bounce-back.
       Directional changes: On the initial course, the only means
       of changing directions on the highways is to return to the
       garage, then return to the highways in the OPPOSITE
       direction.  Once the second course opens, however, there
       will always be at least one means of changing directions
       on the highways without the need to return to the garage.
       Since the second course is a southern addition to the
       initial course, the southernmost run of the initial course
       can be used for directional changes.  The third course is
       a western addition onto the previous two courses; there
       are two places where the northernmost run of the third
       course is connected to the southernmost run of the third
       Flares: One the second course opens, there will be times
       when flares appear on the highway.  These indicate that
       there could be a stationary vehicle ahead in the lane
       where the flares are located.  Note that often, there IS a
       stationary vehicle ahead, but if the vehicle has already
       been removed, the flares may still be active for a short
       period of time.  There are no consequences for driving
       over the flares, but the player should be ready to take
       quick evasive actions in case there IS a stationary
       vehicle ahead in that lane.
       Highway lighting: The distant lights along the highway are
       rather blurry and can easily trick the player when racing
       along at top speed, especially in the long, straight
       sections of highway out west.  It does help a little to
       look as far ahead as possible and note the upcoming
       corners by the positioning of the streetlamps, but the red
       taillights are often too blurry until the player is
       practically IN another vehicle's back bumper.
       Painted lane 'extensions:' Some of the sharper corners on
       the highways have painted lane 'extensions,' where the
       highway barrier gives way but the extra space is painted
       in a diagonal stripe pattern to try to keep vehicles in
       the main lanes.  During a battle, this can be a prime
       place to make a pass of either a Rival or a non
       participant vehicle.  Also, Rivals generally do not make
       use of the painted lane 'extensions,' so knowing where
       these are located on the three courses can greatly help in
       setting up a pass.
       Police: Unfortunately, the police never truly appear and
       chase speeders.  However, once the second course opens,
       there are several locations where police are most likely
       to 'appear' (by blaring the siren and flashing the lights;
       the monetary speed penalties are then subtracted from that
       night's earnings the next time the player returns to the
       garage).  Interestingly, if a player is 'caught' by the
       police in a battle, replaying the battle immediately
       afterward reveals a red-tinted snapshot of the player's
       vehicle at the moment in which the player was caught for
       speeding; therefore, the 'police' in this game are
       actually just cameras linked with speed guns and placed
       at various points on the three courses.
       Rival locations: Once the second course opens, there will
       occasionally be a Rival sitting stationary at a highway
       on-ramp near the beginning of Yaesu pointing in a counter-
       clockwise position.  The player should continually check
       the map for the stationary blue dot at this location once
       the second course has been unlocked.
       Toll booth barriers: Along the northernmost and
       southernmost runs of the third course are toll booths.
       These appear in areas where the highway suddenly widens;
       as the player approaches, the lights on the toll booth
       barriers flash faster and faster to 'remind' the player to
       stop and pay the toll.  Obviously, slamming into one of
       these toll booth barriers will cause the player's car to
       bounce backward - and to lose if currently involved in a
       battle with a Rival.  Similarly, if the player is trailing
       a Rival, it is important to give the Rival some room when
       approaching the toll booths, just in case the Rival slams
       into a toll booth barrier, to avoid any potential Rival
       Transparent yellow arrows: At various points along the
       highways, there are transparent yellow arrows pointing
       the player either toward or away from a given highway exit
       ramp or connection.  While other non-player/non-Rival
       vehicles can easily pass through these transparent yellow
       arrows, the player will suddenly be forced to the garage
       upon passing through these transparent yellow arrows.  The
       exception is that if the player passes through these
       transparent yellow arrows during a battle, the battle will
       automatically end in a Draw and the player's vehicle will
       be automatically placed back upon the highway near the
       point at which the player had originally exited the
       highway.  Should a player be able to force a Rival through
       these transparent yellow arrows, the battle will also end
       in a Draw.
       Vehicles switching lanes: In most cases, a non-participant
       vehicle will switch lanes in order to pass a slower
       vehicle in front of it.  Make note of these lane switches
       and be prepared to make a high-speed maneuver between the
       lane-switching vehicle and the slower vehicle.
       Vehicles with yellow flashing lights: These vehicles
       generally indicate that a larger vehicle ahead (generally
       a semi truck) is moving slowly and/or is oversized.  These
       vehicles trail the slower/oversized vehicles by a good
       distance, so the player should have plenty of time and
       room to switch to another lane and stay there until the
       slow/oversized vehicle has been safely passed.
    First, most CPU-controlled Rivals have trouble cornering.
    Therefore, it is generally a good idea to tune a car for
    quick acceleration and to have the best possible tires.  This
    also means that a car tuned in this manner will do fairly
    well on the initial course, but - unless the player has a car
    with a MASSIVE horsepower output - very poorly on long,
    straight stretches of highway.  To the extent possible,
    strategically pick the starting point for each battle, even
    if it means tailing a Rival for several kilometers until the
    player reaches a section with many corners (such as the
    northern tunnels of the initial course).  If necessary, the
    player can return to garage, then re-enter the competition in
    or just before an area with a lot of curves.
    In a battle, the car in the lead dictates the direction of
    the battle; if the player is trailing and takes a different
    route than the leader at a fork in the highway, the battle
    ends in an instant draw.  Very rarely has a CPU-controlled
    Rival taken a different route than I took when I was in the
    lead, so this can be used to the player's advantage when in
    the lead.  Best of all, if one of the forks leads to an area
    of the course which the player personally prefers due to
    better performance AND the player is in the lead, he or she
    should definitely take it!!!  However, if the player is
    trailing the Rival by such a distance that the player cannot
    see the Rival, the player should NOT go into Yaesu; only on
    extremely RARE occasions will Rivals go into Yaesu if they
    are in the lead in a battle.
    Rivals DO occasionally make mistakes: ramming other vehicles,
    overcorrecting, hitting toll booth barriers, etc.  the player
    must be constantly aware, and be ready to take advantage of
    such situations if trailing the Rival.  Especially if the
    player is approaching the toll booths, the player should NOT
    tail the Rival too closely - or try to give as wide a berth
    as possible - in case the Rival suddenly rams a toll booth
    barrier and bounces backward; the same applies for the
    concrete lane barriers underneath the bridges in the initial
    The player should not be afraid to use 'dirty tactics'
    (blocking, sideswiping an opponent into a barrier or the back
    of another vehicle) to win.  In many cases, the Rivals will
    use dirty tactics to stay ahead of the player.  In
    progressing through the game, the player will NEED to use
    dirty tactics to gain and/or retain the lead.
    Tokyo Extreme Racer Zero is very richly done in terms of the
    visuals.  It is quite easy to get lost in the realism of the
    game, from the traffic to the airplanes taking off and
    landing overhead.  However, THE PLAYER MUST NOT TAKE THE EYES
    The western highways are generally conducive to high-speed
    runs, due to long straightaways, multiple and wider lanes
    (especially in the tunnels), and generally thinner traffic.
    However, at the extremely high top-end speeds which are
    usually achieved in this area, even a light brushing with a
    barrier or another vehicle can reduce the player's speed just
    enough for to lose the lead and/or lose all chance of
    catching the opponent.
    There ARE cops in this game, located in eight different areas
    of the highway circuit (once all highways are opened).  Never
    did I actually see the police car; I only heard the sirens as
    I sped by a highway on-ramp (where the police were probably
    hiding).  A player will not actually get pulled over;
    instead, when the player returns to garage to end the night,
    she or he is presented with the 'Over Speed Penalty!!'
    screen, which lists the infractions and fines incurred in the
    session, and the appropriate amount is then deducted from the
    total remaining money.  What really happens (which is
    revealed should the player replay a battle in which she or
    her was 'caught' by the police) is that there are cameras
    linked with speed guns and placed at various locations along
    the three courses.  (This is so impersonal, and I was REALLY
    hoping to be arrested by Miyuki and Natsumi!!!!!)
    When buying (upgraded levels of) parts, it is a good idea to
    always immediately go back to the Settings section of the
    Quest Mode menu, as new tuning options may be available.  For
    example, most vehicles cannot handle Turbo in their
    stock/non-tuned configurations, but Turbo may become
    available for tuning once the player acquires a high-level
    Periodically (perhaps every 20-30 minutes), the player should
    save game progress (System menu), just in case the
    electricity goes out, little siblings squirt the console with
    a water gun, etc.  Also, in returning to the garage, the
    player should look to the top of the report screen to see if
    new parts or new levels of parts have been unlocked (by
    beating specific Rivals) and, if so, seriously consider
    acquiring some upgrades before returning to the highways.
    These are the cars and settings I have used in the game.
    My first car: TYPE-CE9A (Class A, 4WD, 2714lbs, 490HP,
       Initial Cost: $14,750
       Steer: +11
       Acceleration: +12
       Braking: +11
       Brake Balance: +7 (biased to the rear)
       Ride Height: -15 front AND rear (lowest possible setting)
       Gear Ratio: Default, except Final set to 2.78
       Spring Rate: -8 front and rear
       Damper: +4 front AND rear
       Turbo Boost: 1.40 (fairly high)
    My second car (Class A, acquired after opening the long
          western sections of highway): TYPE-CP9A6M (4WD,
          2797lbs, 561HP, 1997cc)*
       Initial Cost: $28,480
       Steer: +11
       Acceleration: +12
       Braking: +12
       Brake Balance: +8 (biased to the rear)
       Ride Height: -15 front AND rear (lowest possible setting)
       Gear Ratio: Default
       Spring Rate: +5 front, +6 rear
       Damper: -7 front AND rear
       Turbo Boost: 1.39 (fairly high)
    My third car (Class A, acquired specifically to beat Speed
          King): TYPE-RPT7 (MR, 2764lbs, 446HP, 3560cc)**
       Initial Cost: $
       Steer: +7
       Acceleration: +12
       Braking: +14
       Brake Balance: +8 (biased to the rear)
       Ride Height: N/A
       Gear Ratio:
          1st  : 3.71
          2nd  : 2.61
          3rd  : 1.93
          4th  : 1.58
          5th  : 1.28
          6th  : 0.96
          Final: 3.03
       Spring Rate: N/A
       Damper: N/A
       Turbo Boost: N/A
    My current car (Class A, the Speed King car): TYPE-R34RKK
          (4WD, 3230lbs, 788HP, 2876cc)*
       Initial Cost: $525,500
       Steer: +7
       Acceleration: +12
       Braking: +13
       Brake Balance: +7 (biased to the rear)
       Ride Height: -15 front AND rear (lowest possible setting)
       Gear Ratio:
          1st  : 4.96
          2nd  : 3.29
          3rd  : 2.28
          4th  : 1.87
          5th  : 1.45
          6th  : 1.06
          Final: 2.71
       Spring Rate: +10 front, +11 rear
       Damper: -12 front AND rear
       Turbo Boost: 1.31 (fairly high)
    *  Weight, horsepower, and cc based on highest possible
       levels of available parts (except mufflers, where highest
       possible horsepower muffler was selected).
    ** Weight, horsepower, and cc based on the following parts:
       Engine Level 5; Muffler and Air Cleaner Level 6;
       Transmission Level 3; Clutch and Differential Level 4; and
       Tires, Brakes, and Wheels Level 8.  Also, after several
       days of frustration trying to beat Speed King with a
       number of other cars, I was successful beating Speed King
       the first time I tried with this car.
    Concerning Wanderers, I have received A LOT of e-mails from
    many players.  The following comes from J.D.
    (selsduk@aol.com), and is edited only for formatting purposes
    and minor language:
       From: SeLsDuk@aol.com
       Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 06:31:04 EDT
       Subject: ABOUT the WANDeRERS
       To: FEATHER7@ix.netcom.com
       Yeah I've been having a BIG <<<deleted for language>>>
       PROB with that.  I've been trying a lot of things but
       sometimes it'll work and sometimes it wont.  Here are my
       1)  Race a WANDERER with a STOCK CAR.  Sometimes, they'll
       race you and keep on your pace.
       2)  Go in front of the WANDERER to see if they HIGHBEAM.
       If they don't sometimes it means that they don't wanna
       race you if you highbeam them.
       3)  Trial and Error.  This is what me and probably anyone
       else who has been playing TOKYO RACER 2 (DC) or TOKYO
       RACER 0 (PS2).  I raced a couple of KANJO-INNER WANDERERS
       with my PORSCHE 930 TURBO A CLASS CAR 2 951HP seeing that
       they dont wanna race my C CLASS 164 HP car.  Its weird.
    I can definitely confirm J.D.'s second point, and his third
    point is what most players probably try by default... which
    makes them frustrated, and then they e-mail me!!!  As for the
    first point concerning a stock car, how fast can the player
    accumulate A LOT of money for stock car and parts???
    For specific information on the Wanderers, see 'Wanderer's
    Requirement(s) FAQ' - translated and written by HIKARU2001,
    Wataru, and Reiko - on GameFAQs (and probably also posted
    Also, some advice concerning the pressure-sensitive PS2
    DualShock2 controller:
       From: 'Scott Edwards' <sje75@hotmail.com>
       Subject: Your tokyo extreme racer FAQ
       Date: Thu, 05 Jul 2001 23:49:29
       Because the X button on the PS2 controller is pressure
       sensitive, you can find yourself losing a lot of your
       acceleration and speed because you can't hold the button
       down that hard constantly.  One option to fix this is to
       go into the settings in the garage and change the
       sensitivity of the accerlation.  Alternatively, if you
       just use a PS1 controller without analog functions, you
       can effectively hold it down ALL THE WAY all the time.
    With appropriate modifications, Scott's tip may also be
    applicable to other games.  Of course, the player may also
    wish to make use of the services of Chet (the slightly-insane
    gaming coach) from the 2001 Blockbuster Video advertising
    campaign, and specifically work on increasing thumb strength
    and endurance.
    Here is some information on a 'child-safety feature:'
       From: 'Kyle Morse' <e-mail withheld>
       To: feather7@ix.netcom.com
       Subject: TXRZ Child Safety Feature
       Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 00:59:34 -0400
       Tokyo Extreme Racer: Zero has a child safety feature. You
       know that little sibling, the one that watches you play.
       Well I'm sure you don't want him/her to play while you're
       temporarily gone. You know their going to play any way
       so i have found that if you pause the game in Quest mode,
       then press SELECT,SQUARE,TRIAGLE,AND CIRCLE at the same
       time. This causes the game to lock and the game is unable
       to to be messed with thru the controller. When you come
       back to unlock the game press and hold SELECT, THEN PRESS
       SQUARE, TRIANGLE, AND CIRCLE. Remember don't let the
       rugrats mess up the gig man!
    Also, concerning how muffler choice affects horsepower and
    torque, Jeremy Jones has made a rather interesting
       Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 21:41:11 -0700 (PDT)
       From: Jeremy Jones <picassoman_13@yahoo.com>
       Subject: About your FAQ
       When I first upgraded the car, I thought it was odd
       how the horsepower goes down with certain higher
       mufflers.  But I then noticed another thing, the
       number of engine upgrade corresponds to the number of
       the muffler.  For example: Say I have a level 4
       engine, well, the best bet would be to go with the
       level 4 muffler, not only is the horsepower the
       highest there, but so is the torque.  And if I had a
       level 2 engine, I'd get a level 2 muffler. If you go
       over the number of your engine upgrade, you will (in
       most cases) lose horsepower and torque.  Understand?
       I thought that was interesting that they chose to go
       that way.
    There are four common drivetrains for cars, plus the 'RR'
    4WD: All four wheels are drive wheels.  In many forms of
            auto racing, 4WD vehicles are banned due to the
            inherent advantage of using all four wheels as
            drive wheels (due to the added traction advantage).
    FF:  The engine AND the drive wheels are at the front of the
            car.  FF vehicles are fairly easy to drive, but do
            not generally handle high horsepower outputs very
            well.  This type of vehicle tends to understeer.
    FR:  The engine is in the front of the vehicle, but the rear
            wheels are the drive wheels.  This type of car has a
            great tendency for oversteering, and throttle
            management is VERY important when exiting corners to
            try to prevent the oversteer condition.  NASCAR uses
            FR vehicles.
    MR:  The engine is located between the axles (usually just
            behind the driver), and the rear wheels are the drive
            wheels.  This type of car can be a bit tricky to
            drive.  Typical MR cars are those used in F1, CART,
            and IRL.  In open-wheel cars (such as those in the
            aforementioned racing series), there is extremely
            little material to absorb the shock of a front-end
            collision in an accident, thus providing fairly
            little protection for the driver (especially the
            driver's legs); it is truly amazing that there are
            not more driver injuries in open-wheel cars with
            MR drivetrains due to this 'non-protection' issue.
    RR:  Both the engine and the drive wheels are in the rear of
            the car.  These cars are fairly rare.
    The first step in driving fast is knowing when, where, and
    how much to slow down (braking).  In some games, a brake
    controller can be acquired or purchased, allowing the player
    to customize the brake strength by axle or by adjusting the
    bias of the brakes toward the front or the rear of the car.
    The use of a brake controller will affect the braking zone,
    as will other factors.  Specifically, the car's speed on
    approaching a corner, the amount of fuel in the car at a
    given moment, the drivetrain of the car, the weight of the
    car, and even the car's center of gravity can all affect the
    braking zone.  Similarly, the driving conditions - sunny,
    overcast, damp, wet, icy, snowy etc. - will affect the
    braking zone for each corner (as well as the car's ability to
    attain high speeds).
    Except for purely arcade-style games, the braking zone will
    differ somewhat for each car depending upon its strengths and
    weaknesses.  It certainly helps for the player to try a Free
    Run or a Time Trial (if these modes exist in a given game) to
    learn the circuit(s) - including the braking zones.
    When looking for braking zones, try to find a particular
    stationary object near the entry of each corner; it helps
    tremendously if this object is far enough away from the
    circuit that it will not be knocked over during a race.  To
    begin, try using the brakes when the front of the car is
    parallel with the chosen stationary object.  If this does not
    slow the car enough before corner entry or if the car slows
    too much before reaching the corner, pick another stationary
    object on the following lap and try again.
    Whenever changes are made to the car - whether to the brake
    controller or to other aspects of tuning and/or parts - it
    would be a good idea to go back into Free Run mode and check
    that the braking zones still hold; if not, adjust as
    necessary using the method in the paragraph above.
    For those races which include fuel loads, the car will become
    progressively lighter during a race.  The lesser weight can
    often mean a slightly shorter braking zone; however, if tire
    wear is excessive (especially if there have been numerous
    off-course excursions), that might dictate a longer braking
    Cars with a higher horsepower output will inherently attain
    faster speeds, and will therefore require a longer braking
    zone than cars with a lower horsepower output.  Try a
    Volkswagon New Beetle, a Mini Cooper, a Dodge Viper, a Panoz
    Esperante GT-1, a Corvette C5R, and an F-2002 (all in
    stock/base configuration) along the same area of a circuit
    and note how their braking zones differ.
    A final note on braking: To the extent possible, ALWAYS brake
    in a straight line.  If braking only occurs when cornering,
    the car will likely be carrying too much speed for the
    corner, resulting in the car sliding, spinning, and/or
    flipping.  (Some games purposely do not permit the car to
    flip, but a slide or spin can still mean the difference
    between winning and ending up in last position at the end of
    a race.)
    If nothing else, players should strive to become of the
    'breakers' they possibly can.  This will essentially force a
    player to become a better racer/driver in general once the
    player has overcome the urge to constantly run at top speed
    at all times with no regard for damages to self or others.
    Also, slowing the car appropriately will make other aspects
    of racing/driving easier, especially in J-turns, hairpin
    corners, and chicanes.
    Ideally, the best way to approach a corner is from the
    outside of the turn, braking well before entering the corner.
    At the apex (the midpoint of the corner), the car should be
    right up against the edge of the pavement.  On corner exit,
    the car drifts back to the outside of the pavement and speeds
    off down the straightaway.  So, for a right-hand turn of
    about ninety degrees, enter the corner from the left, come to
    the right to hit the apex, and drift back to the left on
    corner exit.  See the Diagrams section at the end of this
    guide for a sample standard corner.
    For corners that are less than ninety degrees, it may be
    possible to just barely tap the brakes - if at all - and be
    able to clear such corners successfully.  However, the same
    principles of cornering apply: approach from the outside of
    the turn, hit the apex, and drift back outside on corner
    For corners more than ninety degrees but well less than 180
    degrees, braking will certainly be required.  However, for
    these 'J-turns,' the apex of the corner is not the midpoint,
    but a point approximately two-thirds of the way around the
    corner.  J-turns require great familiarity to know when to
    begin diving toward the inside of the corner and when to
    power to the outside on corner exit.  See the Diagrams
    section at the end of this guide for a sample J-turn.
    Hairpin corners are turns of approximately 180 degrees.
    Braking is certainly required before corner entry, and the
    cornering process is the same as for standard corners:
    Approach from the outside, drift inside to hit the apex
    (located at halfway around the corner, or after turning
    ninety degrees), and drifting back to the outside on corner
    exit.  See the Diagrams section at the end of this guide for
    a sample hairpin corner.
    If there are two corners of approximately ninety degrees each
    AND both corners turn in the same direction AND there is only
    a VERY brief straightaway between the two corners, they may
    be able to be treated like an extended hairpin corner.
    Sometimes, however, these 'U-turns' have a straightaway
    between the corners that is long enough to prohibit a
    hairpin-like treatment; in this case, drifting to the outside
    on exiting the first of the two corners will automatically
    set up the approach to the next turn.  See the Diagrams
    section at the end of this guide for a sample U-turn.
    FIA (the governing body of F1 racing, World Rally
    Championship, and other forms of international motorsport)
    seems to love chicanes.  One common type of chicane is
    essentially a 'quick-flick,' where the circuit quickly edges
    off in one direction then realigns itself in a path parallel
    to the original stretch of pavement, as in the examples in
    the Diagrams section at the end of this guide.  Here, the
    object is to approach the first corner from the outside, hit
    BOTH apexes, and drift to the outside of the second turn.
    FIA also seems to like the 'Bus Stop' chicane, which is
    essentially just a pair of quick-flicks, with the second
    forming the mirror image of the first, as shown in the
    Diagrams section at the end of this guide.  Perhaps the most
    famous Bus Stop chicane is the chicane (which is actually
    called the 'Bus Stop Chicane') at Pit Entry at Spa-
    Francorchamps, the home of the annual Grand Prix of Belgium
    (F1 racing) and the host of The 24 Hours of Spa (for
    endurance racing).
    Virtually every other type of corner or corner combination
    encountered in racing (primarily in road racing) combines
    elements of the corners presented above.  These complex
    corners and chicanes can be challenging, such as the Ascari
    chicane at Monza.  See the Diagrams section for an idea of
    the formation of Ascari.
    However, in illegal street/highway racing, the positioning of
    traffic can 'create' the various corners and corner
    combinations mentioned here.  For example, weaving in and out
    of traffic creates a virtual bus stop chicane (see the
    Diagrams section at the end of this guide).  Slowing may be
    necessary - it often is - depending on the distance between
    the vehicles.  See the Sample Circuit Using Some of the Above
    Corner Types Combines in the Diagrams section at the end of
    this guide; note that this is a diagram for a very technical
    At some race venues, 'artificial chicanes' may be created by
    placing cones and/or (concrete) barriers in the middle of a
    straightaway.  One such game which used this type of chicane
    is the original Formula1 by Psygnosis, an F1-based
    PlayStation game from 1995, which used this at Circuit
    Gilles-Villeneuve along Casino Straight (shortly after
    passing the final grandstands at the exit of Casino Hairpin).
    One thing which can change the approach to cornering is the
    available vision.  Blind and semi-blind corners require
    ABSOLUTE knowledge of such corners.  Here is where gamers
    have an advantage over real-world drivers:  Gamers can
    (usually) change their viewpoint (camera position), which can
    sometimes provide a wider, clearer view of the circuit, which
    can be especially important when approaching semi-blind
    corners; real-world drivers are obviously inhibited by the
    design of their cars and racing helmets.  Great examples of
    real-world blind and semi-blind corners would be Mulsanne
    Hump at Le Mans, Turns 14 and 15 at Albert Park, and each of
    the first three corners at A1-Ring.
    Also important to cornering - especially with long, extended
    corners - is the corner's radius.  Most corners use an
    identical radius throughout their length.  However, some are
    increasing-radius corners or decreasing-radius corners.
    These corners may require shifting the apex point of a
    corner, and almost always result in a change of speed.
    Decreasing-radius corners are perhaps the trickiest, because
    the angle of the corner becomes sharper, thus generally
    requiring more braking as well as more turning of the
    steering wheel.  Increasing-radius corners are corners for
    which the angle becomes more and more gentle as the corner
    progresses; this means that drivers will generally accelerate
    more, harder, or faster, but such an extra burst of speed can
    backfire and require more braking.  See the Diagrams section
    at the end of this guide for sample images of a decreasing-
    radius corner and an increasing-radius corner.
    For traditional road racing circuits, increasing-radius and
    decreasing-radius corners may not be too much of a problem;
    after several laps around one of these circuits, a driver
    will know where the braking and acceleration points are as
    well as the shifted apex point (should a shift be required).
    However, for stage-based rally racing, where the roads are
    virtually unknown and the driver knows what is ahead only
    because of the navigator's instructions (which - based upon
    notes - may or may not be absolutely correct), the unknown
    can cause drivers to brake more often and/or more heavily.
    For rally-based games, such as the Need for Speed: V-Rally
    series (PlayStation/PSOne) or for World Rally Championship
    (PlayStation2), there is often specialized vocabulary used:
    'tightens' generally designates that a corner has a
    decreasing radius, whereas 'widens' or 'opens' indicates that
    a corner has an increasing radius.  This need for 'extra'
    braking is also tempered by the fact that in much of rally
    racing, corners are either blind or semi-blind, due to trees,
    buildings, cliffs, embankments, and other obstacles to clear
    vision all the way around a corner.
    One particularly interesting aspect of cornering is one which
    I honestly do not know if it works in reality (I am not a
    real-world racer, although I would certainly LOVE the chance
    to attend a racing school!!!), but which works in numerous
    racing/driving games I have played over the years.  This
    aspect is to use the accelerator to help with quickly and
    safely navigating sharp corners.  This works by first BRAKING
    AS USUAL IN ADVANCE OF THE CORNER, then - once in the corner
    itself - rapidly pumping the brakes for the duration of the
    corner (or at least until well past the apex of the corner).
    The action of rapidly pumping the accelerator appears to
    cause the drive wheels to catch the pavement just enough to
    help stop or slow a sliding car, causing the non-drive wheels
    to continue slipping and the entire car to turn just a little
    faster.  Using this rapid-pumping technique with the
    accelerator does take a little practice initially, and seems
    to work best with FR cars; however, once perfected, this
    technique can pay dividends, especially with REALLY sharp
    hairpin corners, such as at Sebring International Raceway.
    Many racing games (primarily arcade-heavy games such as CART
    Fury, or arcade favorites such as Pole Position and Pole
    Position II, and Outrun and Turbo Outrun) can be played with
    absolutely no concerns about car set-ups; other racing games
    (such as Le Mans 24 Hours or Sports Car GT) have so few set-
    up options that changing anything really does not have much
    effect, especially at lower levels of difficulty.  However,
    games such as F1 2002 and Gran Turismo 3 present a number of
    set-up options, and the novice can easily become lost in
    trying to discern how to change the set-up options to induce
    or correct certain handling characteristics of a given car.
    While I am certainly NOT a car expert (in a real car, I can
    just barely find the accelerator and the radio buttons), I
    can present some of the basics of various parts to help
    tuning novices.
    Note that often, when one part's setting has been changed, at
    least one other part's setting will also need to be changed
    to maintain some semblance of handling.  For example, if the
    gearbox is changed to use long gear ratios, the aerodynamics
    settings will likely need to be lowered to make use of the
    long gear ratios (otherwise, the car will have difficulty
    climbing into its highest gear at the appropriate speed).
    For another example, if the tire pressure is increased, the
    car will likely require soft tires to help to keep the car on
    the pavement when cornering (especially at high speeds).
    Aerodynamics (Wings)   The wings are important for downforce,
                           the use of airflow over the front and
                           rear of the car to keep cars from
                           taking off like an airplane and doing
                           a backflip like the Mazda at Le Mans.
                           A low downforce/wing setting can
                           produce faster speeds but decreases
                           cornering ability, while a high
                           setting will help tremendously with
                           cornering at the sacrifice of
                           straight-line speed.
       Brake Bias          Brake bias controls the percentage of
                           braking power going toward the front
                           and rear of the car.  A setting of 50
                           will provide equal braking power to
                           the front and rear of the vehicle.  A
                           setting lower than 50 will
                           progressively favor the front of the
                           car in braking ability; a setting
                           higher than 50 will progressively
                           favor the rear of the car in braking
                           ability.  In general, brake bias
                           should be kept within the range of
       Brake Controller    Unlike brake bias, the brake
                           controller will allow for the
                           customization of brake strength by
                           axle.  If a brake controller is
                           available, then brake bias and brake
                           strength are not needed.
       Brake Strength      Independent of brake bias, brake
                           strength controls the response of the
                           brakes relative to the amount of
                           pressure applied to the brake button.
                           A low setting produces little (slow)
                           response, while a high setting
                           produces great (fast) response.
                           Therefore, assuming that equal
                           pressure is always applied to the
                           brake button, a low setting requires
                           that braking begin earlier than the
                           same car and corner using a high
                           setting in the exact same racing
    Gearbox                Some games allow players to customize
                           gear settings, or they provide three
                           preset gear ratios: short, medium, and
                           long.  A short gear ratio provides
                           impressive acceleration while
                           sacrificing top-end speed.  A long
                           gear ratio provides excellent top-end
                           speed (especially in a straight line),
                           but far slower acceleration.  A medium
                           gear ratio provides the best of both
                              Note that for racing games with a
                           standing start, a short gear ratio
                           will allow a car to get off the line
                           very quickly, allowing for the player
                           to immediately gain one or more race
                           positions.  Conversely, a high gear
                           ratio will almost certainly cause the
                           player to lose one or more positions
                           at the start of a race due to the slow
                           acceleration inherent to long gear
       Ride Height         Like aerodynamics, ride height can
                           help or hinder a car's performance
                           through airflow.  A low ride height
                           setting allows less air underneath the
                           vehicle, resulting in less aerodynamic
                           friction to slow the car.  Conversely,
                           a high ride height setting allows more
                           air to pass underneath the car,  thus
                           increasing air friction and slowing
                           the car (which assists in cornering).
                              However, car performance is NOT the
                           only consideration when setting ride
                           height.  If ride height is set too
                           low, the car may bottom out,
                           especially at the top or bottom of
                           hills or when rolling over rumble
                           strips.  For short races (4-8 laps),
                           bottoming out may not be a significant
                           concern.  However, in longer races
                           (especially at 32+ laps), bottoming
                           out the car could cause mechanical
       Bump Stop           The bump stop indicates the point at
                           which the suspension will stop its
                           vertical travel as the car speeds
                           around the circuit.  Rumble strips,
                           debris, and generally bumpy sections
                           of pavement will inherently cause the
                           car's suspension to move as the
                           vehicle passes across non-even
                           surfaces and obstructions.
                              If bump stop settings are
                           identical, the car will have no
                           vertical movement
                           of the suspension, meaning that any
                           required vertical movement for
                           different surfaces will cause the
                           entire car to rise as the tires pass
                           over the obstruction(s).
       Spring Rate         A high spring rate setting will make
                           the springs stiffer, assisting in
                           cornering; however, if set too high,
                           the car is likely to jump when running
                           over rumble strips.  A lower setting
                           will keep the car from jumping, but
                           the vehicle will have trouble when
       Anti-roll Bar       The anti-roll bar can be stiffened to
                           keep the car from flipping, but this
                           will make cornering more difficult.
                           The setting can be lowered to
                           accommodate cornering ability, but
                           the car will then be easier to flip
                           in an accident.
       Type                See the Tires section above for
                           specific information on the types and
                           compounds of tires often seen in
                           racing/driving games.
       Pressure            High tire pressures result in more-
                           rounded tires, meaning that less tire
                           surface will actually be touching the
                           pavement, thus inherently reducing the
                           amount of available pavement grip
                           (regardless of the type or compound of
                           tire used) and producing a slightly
                           faster car due to less friction.  Low
                           tire pressures create 'flattened'
                           tires, putting more rubber on the
                           pavement and creating far more
                           friction to slow the car and assist in
    This section contains the diagrams referred to earlier in the
    Ascari Chicane (at Monza):
    Bus Stop Chicane (Variant I - Wide Chicane):
       *******************           *******************
                          *         *
    Bus Stop Chicane (Variant II - Narrow Chicane):
       *******************           *******************
    Decreasing-radius Corner:
    Hairpin Corner:
    Increasing-radius Corner:
    Quick-flicks (Variant I - Wide Chicane):
    Quick-flicks (Variant II - Narrow Chicane):
    Sample Circuit Using Some of the Above Corner Types Combined:
        ******|******       *****
       *      |->    *     *     *
        *          **   ***     *
         *        *   **        *
        *         *  *    *     *
       *         *  *    * *     ********
       *          **    *   *            *
       *               *     ************
        *******       *
    Standard Corner:
    Virtual Bus Stop Chicane:
                         Car #1   ->->->->->->   Car #3
       Player Path: ->->->->->->->   Car #2   ->->->->->->->
    For rants, raves, etc., contact me at FEATHER7@IX.NETCOM.COM;
    also, if you have enjoyed this guide and feel that it has
    been helpful to you, I would certainly appreciate a small
    donation via PayPal (http://www.paypal.com/) using the above
    e-mail address.
    To find the latest version of this and all my other
    PSX/PS2/DC/Mac game guides, visit FeatherGuides at

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