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    FAQ by confu2000

    Version: 0.2 | Updated: 10/30/07 | Search Guide | Bookmark Guide

    Eye of Judgment General FAQ v0.2 
    By Jerry Hsu (confucious@gamefaqs, PSN - confu2000) 
    The latest version of this document will always be at 
    I can be contacted at confucious@gmail.com
    Table of contents 
    1. Introduction 
    2. Setting up 
    3. Gameplay 
    3.1. Basic Turn Order 
    3.2. The Board 
    3.3. Cards 
    3.4. Status effects 
    3.5. On-screen Information
    4. Strategy 
    5. Tips 
    6. Troubleshooting 
    0. History 
    v0.2 - Made the card information section more 
    comprehensive. Restructured layout slightly.
    v0.1 - Initial faq. Mostly random troubleshooting tips.
    1. Introduction 
    The Eye of Judgment is a collectible card game for the PS3. 
    It uses the Playstation Eye to read cards and track in-game 
    stats for the player.  A game will typically take 30 to 60 
    minutes though a drawn out game can take up to 90 to 120 
    This FAQ is a WIP.  Frankly, the manual for the game sucks 
    so I'm trying to supplement it for new players.
    2. Setting up 
    The game manual does a reasonably decent job of explaining 
    how to setup the camera and play area. 
    A few tips which are also repeated in the troubleshooting 
    * You don't need a particularly bright source of light and 
    in fact, too much light may tend to cause glare which can 
    also interfere with reading the cards. 
    * For camera settings, using a manual setting instead of 
    the automatic setting will usually produce better results. 
    * Make sure that your Playstation Eye stand is fully 
    compressed.  If the alignment view shows any significant 
    space between the mat's grid and the green overlay grid, 
    then your stand is too tall and can be squeezed down 
    * Lightly ironing your mat to remove the folds greatly 
    improves the play experience.  It may also help detection 
    to a small degree. 
    * During online play, the game will draw cards for you (to 
    prevent cheating).  So having your cards organized into 
    multiple piles will help make finding them faster.
    3. Gameplay 
    3.1 Basic Turn Order 
    Start Phase 
    Both players start with 5 cards.  Each player may review his cards and 
    choose to mulligan once (reshuffle and redraw) if they don't like their 
    hand.  After both players have drawn their initial hands, the first 
    player begins his turn. 
    Draw Phase 
    A turn begins by drawing a card from the deck and receiving 2 mana. 
     The first player does not draw a card on his first turn (to balance 
    the advantage of going first). 
    If a player can not draw a card during this phase (or at any other 
    point) due to the deck being empty, he loses.
    Attack Phase
    During a turn, a player may, in any order, try to: 
    1) play spells, 
    2) activate an existing creature to have it attack, 
    3) rotate an existing creature, 
    4) summon a new creature. 
    Existing creatures may be turned 90 degrees once per turn and activated 
    once per turn. 
    Some spells may also end the turn as part of their effect so read the 
    descriptions carefully. 
    Options 1 to 3 may be performed multiple times per turn (2 and 3 on 
    different creatures) as long as the player has mana available to pay 
    for the associated costs.
    Summoning a new creature will end the turn so the other actions must be 
    performed first.
    If a player has no creatures on the board, he may summon a creature to 
    any field.  Otherwise, creatures may only be summoned to fields 
    adjacent to any existing creature (allied or enemy).  Fields that are 
    valid for summoning have a white highlight effect. 
    Newly summoned creatures will automatically attack.  Creatures will not 
    attack if there are no enemy creatures in range (ie, they will not 
    attack allied creatures if those are the only ones in range). 
     Creatures will attack allied creatures if they have a forced multiple 
    square attack pattern (Twin Goblins for example) and there is an enemy 
    creature in range of one of their attacks. 
    Likewise, creatures can not be activated if there are no enemy 
    creatures in range. 
    If a creature is attacked from a direction that it can attack, then it 
    will normally counterattack.  The attacking character first does damage 
    and then if the defending character is still alive, it will perform its 
    counterattack (ie. damage is not simultaneous).  The counterattack is a 
    normal attack and so creatures that have multiple square attack 
    patterns will attack creatures on all squares (including allied 
    Resolution Phase 
    At the end of the turn (either due to summoning or ending 
    the turn with the "End Turn" card), there are a few things 
    to check.
    There is a hand limit of 7 that is checked at the end of your turn.  If 
    you have more than 7 cards in your hand at the end of your turn, the 
    computer will direct you to discard down to 7.
    If you now control 5 fields (due to summoning your 5th 
    creature), then you win. 
    An important thing to note here is that you must control 5 
    fields at the end of your turn. If you summon a 5th 
    creature, but it dies or causes another of your creatures 
    to die prior to the end of your turn, then the game 
    3.2. The Board 
    The board is a 3x3 grid.  Boards in general seem to always begin with 2 
    fields each of Fire, Water, Earth and Wood elements and 1 Biolith. 
     Each field has two sides, the second side indicated by a small cutout 
    in the lower right corner.  The element of the second side is not 
    necessarily the opposite element of the top side.   
    Flipping a field is called a "fieldquake" and can be performed by 
    spells and some creatures.  More information on elemental effects are 
    in the next section.
    3.3. Cards 
    Card Basics 
    There are 2 types of card, creature summons and spells.
    All cards have a summoning/casting cost which is listed as the first 
    number on the left side. 
    Creature cards also have activation/rotation cost, initial HP and base 
    attack values.
    Some cards have a lock and chain symbol around their summoning cost. 
     Almost all biolith cards seem to have this.  The summoning lock is in 
    effect while there are fewer than 4 creatures on the board (in total 
    for both players).  After the fourth creature is summoned, the 
    summoning lock will release and creatures that are locked can now be 
    played.  If the number of creatures drops back below 4 (due to being 
    killed), the lock will go back into effect, but any creatures already 
    summoned are not affected. 
    A creature can have one of 6 elements: Wood, Earth, Fire, Water, 
    Biolith and Neutral.  
    Wood and Earth are in opposition, Fire and Water are in opposition. 
     Biolith and Neutral are both neutral.  
    For Wood, Earth, Fire and Water, creatures summoned on fields of their 
    own element gain a +2 hp bonus and fields of the opposing element 
    results in a -2 hp penalty.  Biolith and Neutral creatures have no 
    penalty or bonus for any field.  
    In particular, this means that Biolith creatures do not get any benefit 
    from being summoned on Biolith fields. 
    Cards have two icons at the bottom, attack and defense. 
    Attack icons with only solid red arrows indicate that the creature can 
    and will attack multiple fields (Twin Goblins).  Icons with solid red 
    and light red arrows indicate that the creature has the option of 
    attacking any one of the fields (Hellfire Spitter). 
    The primary purpose of the defense icon is to indicate blind spots for 
    the creature.  An attack to the blind spot of a creature will do +1 
    damage.  In general, if a creature is attacked from a position that 
    they can themselves attack, then they will counterattack.  Some defense 
    icons may not make this obvious. 
    Special Creature Types
    Fortress is a special type of creature.  Despite what the attack icon 
    may seem to indicate, fortresses do not have an initial attack when 
    they are summoned.  Fortresses will counterattack as appropriate. 
    Incarnations are another special creature.  Incarnations can be 
    summoned on top of another creature of the same element.  When they are 
    summoned this way, the cost is the difference between the incarnation 
    and the creature it is replacing.  For example, if a Hellfire Spitter 
    is in play, the Scionder Fire God may be summoned on top of it for a 
    cost of 8 instead of the usual 9.  When summoned this way, the 
    incarnation does not get an automatic attack and your turn does not 
    end.  Creatures that are summoned this way can not be activated on the 
    same turn.  You may still summon another creature afterwards (provided 
    you have enough mana).
    3.4. Status effects 
    Cards may gain or have inherent status effects. 
    Quickness - Quickness allows the creature to counterattack first when 
    attacked.  If the creature attacking also has quickness than that 
    creature will attack first as normal.  If a quickness counterattack 
    kills the attacker, then the defending creature will take no damage. 
    Protection - Protection will absorb a certain amount of physical 
    damage.  Protection from multiple sources stacks (ie, +2 protection 
    from one source and +1 from another results in +3 protection total). 
     If a creature has 2 hp and +2 protection, then a 3 damage attack will 
    only do 1 hp of damage.  A 2 damage attack will do 0 damage. 
     Protection does not defend from magic attacks. 
    Dodge - Dodge provides a 50% chance that a physical attack will miss. 
     Dodge can be provided from multiple sources.  So a creature will 2 
    dodge attempts has effectively a 25% chance that a physical attack will 
    miss.  Magic attacks bypass dodge. 
    Perfect Dodge - Perfect dodge provides a 100% chance that a physical 
    attack will miss (effectively immunity from physical attacks).  Magic 
    attacks bypass perfect dodge. 
    Invisibility - Invisibility provides immunity from both magic and 
    physical attacks.  Your only hope for a creature with invisibility is 
    to either remove the source of invisibility or to try to 
    move/fieldquake  the creature to an opposing element field and hope 
    that the resulting hp loss will kill it. 
    Possession - A possessed card is still owned by its 
    original owner but can no longer be controlled.  The 
    possessor may trigger the card's attack on the turn after 
    it is possessed.
    3.5 On-screen Information 
    The sides of the screen list your mana, number of cards in 
    your deck, number of cards in your hand and number of cards 
    in your discard. 
    The first row for creature overlays shows the current HP 
    and attack power. 
    The second row shows the costs for the creature: summoning, 
    activation, rotation.  Note that though activation and 
    rotation start the same, they can be affected by various 
    status effects independently. 
    The third row shows icons indicating from left to right: 
    quickness, protection, dodge/perfect dodge, change to a 
    4. Strategy 
    <empty for now> 
    5. Tips 
    * It can be hard to see the elements of the board at times.  R1 will 
    toggle through a few displays, one of which shows the front/back 
    elements of the board.  The normal hp/attack display also shows the 
    elements of the field the creature is summoned on by colors in the 
    upper left (top field) and lower right (flip field) corners.   
    * During online play, you'll want to use the status screen frequently 
    to see what the opponent's cards can do/attack patterns/blind spots 
    (since you won't have them physically in front of you).  L1 will bring 
    up the status screen and I find it easier than using the status card. 
    * During online play, the computer draws your cards for you 
    to prevent deck stacking.  Press X to review your current 
    hand if you lose track.
    * Creatures do not have a "max" hp, just a starting hp.  Healing 
    effects will always work and have no inherent limit. 
    6. Troubleshooting 
    Q: The Eye doesn't recognize my cards on the field. 
    A: The game is capable of working with fairly low amounts 
    of light.  Among things I've heard, I'd say the first thing 
    to do would be to go to camera setup and change the camera 
    setting off of Automatic exposure and set it to 
    Warm/Normal/Blue as appropriate for your lighting type 
    (incandescent, fluorescent) and Dark/Normal/Bright for the 
    amount of lighting.  Many people find that Warm/Dark works 
    Another thing is to make sure the stand for your Eye is 
    properly assembled.  The tubes for the stand are very tight 
    and it is easy to have the stand be too tall after you 
    initially assemble it.  During the alignment screen where 
    the Eye shows the field with a green overlay grid, the grid 
    should match up with the field very tightly.  If the grid 
    is larger than the field by any amount, your stand is 
    probably too tall and you should apply some more force to 
    squeezing it down.   Another way to tell if your stand is 
    too tal is if it seems wobbly.  The stand when properly 
    assembled should  be pretty stable. 
    Q: The Eye can see the field fine, but I can't get it to 
    recognize my discards (for spells or other effects). 
    A: The first thing is to make sure you're holding the card 
    properly.  The Eye sees the cards by using the green 
    triangles and the black bars at the top and bottom.  If any 
    of those are obscured, it won't recognize the card 
    properly.  So either holding the card in the palm of your 
    hand flat, or along the middle, sideways with your fingers 
    between the green triangles should work well.  I find the 
    second lets me hold the card steadier. 
    The second thing is that the Eye wants the cards held up 
    towards it.  This means that you should hold the card in 
    the air about midway between the board and the Eye.  I've 
    found the Eye can get confused if the discard card is too 
    close too the board. 
    Q: The game lets me setup a room and I can even voice chat 
    with my opponent, but when it starts the game, I'm stuck at 
    waiting and then the opponent disconnects. 
    A: I believe this problem is due to your router.  I think 
    the game uses VPN for transferring the game data (cards 
    played).  Some routers do not handle VPN data well.  I've 
    had problems with the Apple Extreme Base Station.  For this 
    particular router, I need to specify the PS3 as the 
    "default host".  This might be known as DMZ on some other 
    routers.  If you have problems, I suggest googling your 
    router model with "VPN" or "VPN problems" to see if there 
    are any solutions. 
    Q: The game tells me that a card is invalid to place but 
    I'm sure it is. 
    A: Especially in online, the game has certain states that 
    it enforces to prevent things like accidental re-summoning 
    of creatures.  If you place a card and the game reports 
    that it is invalid, remove the card and wait a few seconds 
    for the game to recognize that the state is correct. Then 
    replay the card. It should be accepted at this time. 
     Playing a card too quickly will most likely result in 
    "invalid" messages. 
    It's also possible that there is a limitation that you're 
    not aware of.  In offline, the game will enforce card 
    restrictions such as having only 3 of any single card in 
    your deck.  Online, the game will prevent you from playing 
    a spell card if your hand does not contain the appropriate 
    discards needed to fuel the card.  And remember to be aware 
    of things like summoning locks.

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