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    Car Tuning Guide by aj_the_one

    Version: 1.2 | Updated: 01/14/11 | Search Guide | Bookmark Guide

                                   Gran Turismo 5
                           Car Tuning FAQ(December 1st'10)
                               Written by:Aj the One
    Table of Contents
    A. Introduction
    B. Changes/Updates
    C. Body/Chassis
     C1.Aerodynamics Tuning
    D. Engine
    E. Intake System
    F. Exhaust
    G. Turbo Kits
    H. Transmission
     H1.Gear Adjustments
    I. Drivetrain
     I1.TSD Tuning
     I2.LSD Tuning
    J. Suspension
     J1.Suspension Tuning
    K. Brakes
    L. Tires
    M. Drivetrain Characteristics
    N. Favorite Car Settings
    O. Legal Stuff
    P. Credits
    !!IMPORTANT!!Most of the descriptions for the parts are taken from the menu of
    the game. I've added something to some of the descriptions but it's mostly 
    game material
    Hello to my fellow GT fans!!! After a long wait GT5 is finally upon us and I
    am exceptionally happy at the overall package that they put out. It has some
    problems which need to be addressed(the Individual Gear Ratio thing pisses me
    off) but it's still a great game. With that being said I decided to write a 
    tuning FAQ for those who needed some help on how to tune their cars to 
    perfection. Now experimentation is the key here so try out various settings to
    see which one works best for you, as there is no right or wrong setup. Well
    dive in!!!
    My PSN ID is IntelligentAj for those who care/If you send a friend request
    please put something in the body so I know where you're from. I'm on most
    nights after about 11pm EST and mostly every morning since I work from 3-10pm
    12/4/10-Capitalized the names of the Parts so they are easier to see, Changed
    the downforce section as I had the Front/Rear descriptions backward(thanks
    DraghonCiege), Changed the FAQ name to better reflect the contents
    1/11/11-Fixed the typing errors, added new section on the Drivetrains and my
    personal faovrite car settings
    In this section you can reduce the weight of your car significantly which will
    help increase your car's acceleration and cornering ability by a large margin.
    You can also increase your car's rigidity which will stabilize your car as
    you corner.
    WEIGHT REDUCTION-Removes non-essential parts of the car to reduce overall 
    weight and improve acceleration and cornering ability
    Stage 1-5000/Reduces weight by a little under 10%
    Stage 2-10,000/Reduces weight by a little under 10% again
    Stage 3-20,000/Reduces weight by about 8%
    CHASSIS REINFORCEMENT-20,000/Makes car more rigid which stabilizes the car on
    WINDOW WEIGHT REDUCTION-3,000/Replaces window glass with lighter material to 
    reduce weight and improve cornering performance/Drops weight by 10kg
    CARBON HOOD/BODY COLOR-5,000/Replaces standard hood with Lightweight Carbon 
    hood to reduce weight and make you car look better/Drops weight by 5kg
    By going to GT Auto and adding a Wing to your car or other car modifications
    you can adjust the downforce in the tuning menu. Now depending on the type of
    car you have and how you want it to handle there are a couple of ways you can
    adjust the downforce.
    !!!IMPORTANT!!!As the game notes it's very easy to radically change the way
    your car handles by changing the Downforce. The effect is more evident in
    race cars though as you can adjust the Front and Rear setting. 
    FRONT LOW/REAR HIGH-This setup is designed to make your understeer much more
    than normal. It gives a small degree of control to powerful FR cars like the
    Corvette ZR1 so they handle much easier. Great for FR cars or if you want your
    car to have more understeer
    FRONT MIDDLE/REAR MIDDLE-This is a balanced approach that will give your car 
    better top speed and a slight boost in cornering without much downside. Good
    for all Drivetrains though i'd recommend either an oversteer setting or an
    understeer setting.
    FRONT HIGH/REAR LOW-This setup will make your car tend to oversteer thus 
    helping you corner easier. Be careful though as this can also make it easier
    to spin out. Great for: FF,MR,4WD. I've noticed that in powerful MR cars(the
    Minolta Race Car comes to mind) this setting will make the car much easier to 
    spin out until about 150mph. 
    This is the area where you can make your engine much more efficient and give
    it more Horsepower and Torque which will increase Max Speed and Acceleration 
    respectively as well as improve the overall feel of the car. I recommend 
    buying the ECU before anything else as it has an enormous benefit for a cheap
    **IMPORTANT**Make sure that you go to GT Auto and change your oil. This will
    give a your car a nice bump in HP and Torque and make your engine perform
    ENGINE TUNING-Improves balance of the parts in the engine and makes the engine
    operate smoother, which increase power and acceleration
    Stage 1-2,500/Gives a small/medium increase in BHP/Torque
    Stage 2-15,000/Gives a medium increase in BHP/Torque
    Stage 3-30,000/Gives a medium/high increase in BHP/Torque
    **I was going to try and figure out the percentages but based on what i've
    tested it wildly varies according to how strong the engine is at first
    ECU TUNING-1,000/Installs a high performance Electronic Control Unit to 
    improve engine performance and maximize power output. Small HP boost but 
    improved engine performance
    E.Intake System
    Here you can improve the flow of air into the engine which will make the
    engine stronger and more efficient. These uprgades should follow the engine
    SPORTS INTAKE MANIFOLD-2,500/Minor increase to HP/Improves air intake
    efficiency to increase throttle response and engine power
    SPORTS AIR FILTER-250/Minor increase to HP/Reduces Air Intake resistance to 
    improve engine power
    RACING AIR FILTER-450/Small increase to HP/Installs a high performance Air 
    Filter which reduces air intake resistance further and gives a greater
    increase to power
    Your exhaust system is vitally important to maximizing your engine's 
    performance. Here you can improve the exhaust and change out the manifold and
    Catalytic Converter also increasing power and making your car sound much more
    EXHAUST-Replaces the standard exhaust with a higher quality Steel or Titanium
    exhaust thus improving power and making your car louder.
    SPORTS EXHAUST-1,500/Minor increase to HP/Stainless Steel Sports Exhaust for
    High RPM's and gives your car a heavier engine sound
    TITANIUM SEMI-RACING EXHAUST-7,500/Small/Medium increase in HP/Titanium Alloy
    Exhaust for High RPM's
    TITANIUM RACING EXHAUST-10,000/Medium/Large increase in HP/Efficient, High
    Performance Titanium Exhaust for High RPM's
    SPORTS EXHAUST MANIFOLD-3,500/Minor increase to HP/Engine Headers which
    improve combustion efficiency and peak enging output
    CATALYTIC CONVERTER:SPORTS-500/Minor increase to HP/Reduces resistance from 
    the Cat converter, removing pollutants and increasing engine output. 
    G.Turbo Kits
    Here is where you can add a turbo charger to your car if your car is turbo
    charged or a supercharger if your car can take one. These guys increase HP and
    Torque a significant amount and make your car much faster. Care should be
    taken with the Turbo kits however as the highest HP may not be the best answer
    for your car.
    TURBOCHARGERS-Forced induction devices which increases engine power by using
    engine exhaust to power a compressor/comes with a racing intercooler also.
    !!!IMPORTANT!!!Unlike Enginge upgrades each turbo kit has a specific 
    application therefore you can choose which one you want without having to buy
    the other 2
    LOW RPM RANGE TURBO KIT-4,500/Small increase in HP/Provides excellent engine 
    response and very little to no turbo lag at low RPMs but does terrible at
    higher RPM ranges. Ideal for courses with little straightaways and alot of
    corners as the low end acceleration this provides will help you much more.
    MID RPM RANGE TURBO KIT-10,000/Medium increase in HP/Improves engine response
    at the Mid RPMs and gives a good jump to power. Due to these facts this is
    the most balanced Turbo Kit and will most likely be the best fit for your car
    if it doesn't have an insane amount of HP.
    HIGH RPM RANGE TURBO KIT-20,000/Large increase in HP/Improves engine output at
    the High RPM range and as such does very poorly at lower RPMs. You will 
    experience a nice amount of turbo lag if you find yourself spending alot of
    time in the lower RPM ranges. Use this turbo kit if that doesn't bother you
    or on High Speed courses with a small amount of corners and alot of max speed
    SUPERCHARGER-17,500/Forced induction device that uses the crankshaft instead 
    of the exhaust to power the compressor. Improves engine power in the Low to
    Mid RPM range making this a good fit, if your car can support one.
    You can make your engine as strong as you want but if you don't have a
    Transmission to send that power to the wheels you basically have nothing. Here
    you can upgrade your transmission to improve your acceleration or max speed.
    5 SPEED CLOSE-RATIO TRANSMISSION-6,000/As it's name implies this is a tranny
    which has the gears closer together to increase acceleration but decrease top
    6 Speed CLOSE-RATIO TRANSMISSION-8,000/This is a tranny in which the gears are
    spaced close together again sacrificing speed for acceleration. This has a 
    higher top speed than the 5 Speed Transmission though.
    FULLY CUSTOMIZABLE TRANSMISSION-20,000/Special Service Device which is
    supposed to let you customize all the gear ratios individually, thus meeting
    the need for any race. For some reason you can only adjust the Max Speed 
    slider to the left for more acceleration or to the right for a higher top 
    speed. In almost all cases I would have to recommend this as it's got the
    versatility for anything.
    !!!IMPORTANT!!!Hopefully Polyphony realizes that they screwed up big time and
    make the gears individually adjustable as this not being able to adjust the
    gears individually is anathema to most real racing fans.
    With the Fully Customizable Transmission you can alter the top speed slider in
    the tuning menu of your car. The further to the right you move the slider the
    faster your car will be but the slower it will accelerate. Inversely the more
    to the left the slider is the faster your car will accelerate but it will have
    a slower top speed. The Ideal level changes for each car so I can only tell
    you to get on a practice track and test to see at which level your car flies
    through it's powerband but still gets a high enough top speed that doesn't
    take forever to get to.
    Your drivetrain is almost as important as your transmission when it comes to
    acceleration and max speed. Here you can change your clutch and flywheel to
    improve shifting and engine performance. You can also add a Limited slip
    Differential and a Torque Sensing Center Differential.
    SINGLE PLATE CLUTCH-1,500/Engages and Disengages the transfer of torque 
    between the engine and gears.
    TWIN PLATE CLUTCH-2,500/Reduces the size of the clutch by using two plates. 
    This reduces momentum when the clutch spins and increase engine response and
    grear changes.
    CARBON DRIVE SHAFT-4,500/Reduces drivetrain momentum which improves engine
    TORQUE SENSING CENTER DIFFERENTIAL-15,000/A differential that can alter the
    torque distribution in a 4WD car from 10/90% or 50/50%. If you have a 4WD car
    I highly recommend getting this as it can basically change the handling 
    properties of your car
    !!!IMPORTANT!!!This can only be used for 4WD cars, which is a shame because it
    is one of the best upgrades in the game. 
    This is an invaluable tool to 4WD cars as it can totally change the way the
    car handles by shifting the amount of torque the front and back wheels. You
    make the car handle like a 4WD drive car, balanced without too much over/under
    steer, or you can shift the torque to the back and turn it into a MR or FR 
    like monster.
    **My car for these tests if the Audi R8 5.2 FSI Quattro as it's a high powered
    beast and also handles like a dream making it perfect for these tests!!
    FRONT TORQUE 50%/REAR TORQUE 50%-This is the most balanced configuration and
    will please most people because it doesn't go to far with either extreme. With
    this you can expect a balanced car which will take corners at a medium speed
    and very small likelyhood of spinning out, unless the rear tires are on grass
    or dirt, then nothing can help you.
    FRONT TORQUE 40%/REAR TORQUE 60%-With this setup your car will still be stable
    but you'll feel that the car is a little looser which will let you take 
    corners easier. Still not much likelyhood of spinning out with this config as
    long as you have beginner level throttle control.
    FRONT TORQUE 30%/REAR TORQUE 70%-At this level you'll start noticing that your
    car starts to get quite loose. It's still able to stick to the road and if you
    know how to handle your car this is in most cases the best of both worlds as
    it takes corners much easier than at lower levels and still keeps you from
    spinning out in a lot of circumstances. Just a warning though: Don't go to
    this level until you have spent a good amount of time with your car and know
    it's handling properties
    FRONT TORQUE 20%/REAR TORQUE 80%-At this point differences from the other
    levels are greatly evident. You'll notice that it's quite easy for your car
    to spin out now if your not careful. The car handles a little better on faster
    corners but slower corners are more of problem since the car essentially acts
    like a FR car with a little more control. I personally think this level is too
    much but i'm sure some will like it.
    FRONT TORQUE 10%/REAR TORQUE 90%-Now on this level the difference between the
    lower configurations are extreme. On this setting your car acts like a full
    fledged High power FR car meaning plenty of fishtailing at low to medium 
    speeds. If you like to drift however then this setting is for you as a tap of
    the E-Brake will send you on your way to an extreme drift. Like the setting
    before this I can't recommend this unless you have a supreme command of your
    car... or if you like to drift.
    I didn't cover the 5% increments cause the differences between them aren't
    that great. If one setting seems like too little or too much just adjust it in
    5% increments until you find the setting which works for you.
    Final Thoughts-I can't begin to describe how important this feature is to 4WD
    cars. It can take the most out of control car and turn it into a smooth beast
    capable of taking cornering at nice speeds and ripping through races. If you
    have a 4WD car you need to make adjusting this one of your priorities.
    ADJUSTABLE LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIAL-7,500/Fully adjustable LSD that controls
    the rotation difference between the left and right wheels. You can change the
    limit for both acceleration and braking. 
    The Limited Slip Differential can be just as important to car performance as
    any of the other tuning options. It can act during Acceleration, Deceleration
    or both. The more the LSD can limit the rotational difference between the
    left and right wheels, the more traction will be retained and the more stable
    braking will be, this however will reduce your car's turning ability, leading
    to understeer.
    **Like the other tests I used my Audi R8 5.2 for these tests to get a handle
    on how it affects 4WD cars and my Corvette ZR1 '09 RM for the FR car feel. 
    IMPORTANT THING!!!! If you have great throttle control you can keep your tires
    on the ground and get as much power as you can from your engine to the road.
    INITIAL TORQUE-This is the amount torque necessary for the LSD to kick in. As
    the in-game description says it makes your car more stable by preventing
    sudden changes in performance when the LSD is actived during Acceleration and 
    FR/MR-At low levels you won't really notice a difference in how the car 
    handles. I didn't notice a difference until I put the torque up to about 35 at
    level the understeer becomes more pronounced and the car a little easier to
    handle. This does absolutely nothing for the rear wheels spinning problem so
    this won't provide much relief from spinning out. I recommend keeping this
    high if you want a lot of understeer and low if you want the car to handle a 
    little loosely.
    4WD-Since you can adjust both the front and rear IT you have a chance to make
    a little more of a dent in the handling of the car. By increasing the value
    on the front wheels you will make the car understeer more and by increasing
    the value of the rear wheels you will make the car oversteer more. It should
    be noted that is nowhere near as huge a difference as is seen with TSD. Since
    most 4WD cars handle pretty well i'd recommend keeping the front value low
    around 10-15 and the rear value high about 40-50 if you want the car to 
    corner a little better. 
    ACCELERATION SENSITIVITY-Adjust how the LSD will act when the accelerator is
    FR-I maxed this setting out at 60(by default it was 40)with the intial torque
    at the same level and the car understeered significantly more than with the
    previous settings. Throttle control is still vitally important with the
    ZR1 but this makes the car a little easier to drive, though do to the 
    pronounced understeer you'll have to brake earlier when cornering. Same
    recommendation as above: High if you want more understeer and for the car to
    behave with a little more sanity and low if you want to try and slide around
    4WD-Like the Initial Torque increasing the value to the Front wheels while
    keeping the rear value low result in more understeer, making the car more
    stable but at the cost of some cornering ability. Icnreasing the rear value
    while lowering the front vaule will have the opposite effect of giving the
    car more oversteer and cornering capabilities. Since 4WD cars are relatively
    easy to handle I 'd recommend a Low Front/High Rear setting as you get the
    benefits of increased cornering without the drawback of spinning out.
    DECELERATION SENSITIVITY-Adjust how the LSD will behave during deceleration
    FR-I started by maxing this out(as well as the IT, and AS) and the understeer
    in the car is extreme. On a brighter note this seems to do something to reduce
    the amount that rear wheels spin at lower speeds making the car slightly 
    harder to spin out. Also the car will be much more stable when braking the
    higher this is. I'd recommend IT=30,AS=50,DS=40 with the ZR1. It has a good
    balance of understeer to control the car's worst excesses but not enough to
    hamper the original powerful feel of the car.
    4WD-Like everything else in this section(noticing a pattern?)increase the
    Front Value/Decreasing the Rear value will make your car understeer even 
    further. This will also make you car more stable while braking also. Likewise
    Decreasing the Front Value/Increasing the Rear Value will make the oversteer
    slightly. With this I have noticed the smallest change from other configs.
    Honestly you can just leave this as is, at least in a 4WD car.
    Final Thoughts- LSD is very important for FR cars as the handling properties
    will change significantly according to what you set. 4WD cars not so much. You
    will get a much larger effect on 4WD cars by adjusting the Brake Balance
    controller and Torque Sensing Differential. Most importantly don't forget to
    try out your configuration before you race, this way you have a handle on your
    Here is where you can buy and adjust the Suspension system of your car which
    can widly affect how your car handles and sticks to the road. When modifying
    these settings attention should be paid as you can completely screw up your 
    car with the wrong setup.
    FIXED SPORTS KIT-3,000/Suspension kit which lowers the ride height and has 
    stronger springs than the deafult suspension.
    HEIGHT ADJUSTABLE SPORTS KIT-4,500/Suspension Kit in which you can change both
    the ride height and shock absorbers.
    FULLY CUSTOMIZABLE KIT-15,000/Racing Suspension which allows you to adjust all
    aspects of your car's suspension including the Roll Bars, Camber and Toe Angle
    I Highly recommend that you get this.
    Once you get the Fully Customizable Kit you can adjust various aspects of your
    suspension and all of these will significantly affect how your car handles. 
    You can really screw your car up big time if your tweak a section here the
    wrong way so be very careful and clear on what you want your car to do before
    making any adjustments.
    RIDE HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT(mm)-Here you can adjust the height of the front and
    back of the car seperately. A lower Ride Height will give your car a lower
    center of gravity and will increase will make your car more responsive. A
    mistake alot of people make is setting their car too low to the ground then
    when they go up a hill or go over a bumper their car gets tempermental and out
    of control. If your car takes corners well then a lower front and a higher 
    rear make sense as it will make the car corner better.
    **IMPORTANT**You should make sure that for courses with a high amount of
    elevation(Nurburgring and Trial Mountain come to mind)you should make your
    Ride Height lower and your springs slightly higher.This will help counteract
    all the jumping your car will be doing as a result of elevation change.
    SPRING RATE(kgf/mm)-You can adjust the hardness of your suspension here. The
    harder you make the spring rate, the less your car will pitch and roll and
    the sharper it will move. Also a rule of thumb is the lower the your car is
    the stronger the springs should be to compensate for the shortened length. If
    you springs are set high(just testing I set mine to 16.0 for the front and 
    back)the car will be much more responsive on the track.
    DAMPERS(Extension)-These are designed to reduce the amount that the springs
    expand by limiting the amount that they can move. These should be set to be
    stronger than when they are compressed. The deafult seems to be fine as the
    car handles hill well and gets a little boost to it's cornering.
    DAMPERS(Compression)-These are designed to reduce the amount that the springs
    compress. This determines the resistance is when the springs are compressed 
    and as a result shouldn't be too strong as it would make the suspension tight
    and reduce the car's cornering. I'd recommend making them also slightly lower
    than the default(My R8 is set at 4)
    ANTI-ROLL BARS-You can adjust the stiffness of the Anti-Roll Bars here which
    activate when the car rolls. As the game says you'll have a similiar effect
    on your car's handling. You can adjust these to make your car understeer by
    having the front Bars High and the rear Low. You can increase the oversteer
    by doing the opposite. Since this is according to your driving style i'll let
    you decide which to use.
    CAMBER ANGLE-You can adjust the Negative Camber here which is when the top of
    the tires lean inward more than the bottom when looking at the front of the 
    car. This is quite effective as the higher the Negative Camber is, more of the
    tire stays on the road when cornering. You don't want to set this too high
    though as your car won't drive in a straight line. I've found that a angle
    of 3.0 front/3.0 rear will improve cornering without negative side effects.
    **IMPORTANT**The higher you make the Camber Angle the faster your tires will
    wear down as more of the tire will be in contact with the road. This should
    factor in to how high you set the camber angle. You should also be prepared
    to drive with a little more tire wear in the longer races.
    TOE ANGLE-Here you can adjust the Toe Angle which is the angle of the tires
    when looked at from above. You can have a "Toe-in" which is when the front
    of the tire are further in than the back of tire. Inversely "Toe-out" is
    when the front of the tire is out further than the back. If you want the
    car to understeer generally you should have a Toe-in for the front and rear
    tires, this will also make your car more stable on corners.
    UNDERSTEER- You should have a Toe-in for the front and rear tires this will
    also make your car more stable on corners. A level of .20 for the front and
    rear will cause sufficient oversteer. Recommended for FR/MR cars as they 
    benefit from the understeer and cornering stability.
    OVERSTEER- You should have a Toe-out for the front and rear tires as this will
    make your car oversteer. I use a level of -.20 for my 4WD cars as this gives
    the cars more oversteer with no negative effects. Recommended for FF/4WD/MR
    cars as they generally are much more stable on corners and handling and will
    benefit from the added manuverability. 
    Final Thoughts-Your suspension is very important and you can find significant
    gains in this section if you take the time out to tune your car and constantly
    adjust settings to find what works. You should spend time here getting your 
    car to handle the way you want it to. 
    Naturally,since these are things that stop your car, these are a vitally 
    important part of any car especially a race car. Having enough stopping power
    can shave vital seconds off of your lap times or just make your races easier.
    I'm not sure why they got rid of the purchaseable Brake Kit but you can 
    control the Brake Balance Controller which is just as important as anything
    for controlling your car.
    BRAKE BALANCE CONTROLLER-This adjusts the sensitivity of your front and rear
    brakes. As a result you can control whether your car will understeer or
    oversteer by your decision in this area. If you put the Front and Rear brakes
    to the front then your car will understeer but your brakes will have a 
    significant amount of stopping power. If you put the balance to rear for both
    brakes then your car will oversteer somewhat but your brakes will be weak. 
    It's a good idea to have the Front Brakes at 3 or below and the Rear at 7 or
    above if you want your car to oversteer. The inverse will also be true if you
    want to understeer. 
    All the power in the world doesn't mean anything if you don't have a good set
    tires to transfer that power to the road. Here you can buy various sets of
    tires for your car. There are many types and the situation for each will be
    somewhat different.
    COMFORT TIRES-Hard Tires which handle poorly. In previous GT games these would
    have been a nicer version of simulation tires.
    Hard-1,200/Worst grip of all tires
    Medium-1,400/Still poor grip but not as bad as hard
    Soft-1,600/Like being the smartest of the dumb kids these tires are the best
    of the worst
    SPORTS TIRES-These are tires which are normally used for circuit racing and
    as they handle decently but don't degrade as fast as racing tires.
    Hard-6000/A little better than the comfort tires, these guys will last a while
    Medium-7,000/A good balance of grip and durability at a cheap price
    Soft-8,000/Hugs the road nicely but degrades faster than the other types, nice
    if you don't want to spend 36,000 for the racing softs though there's really
    no match to those.
    RACING TIRES-These guys are designed for racing and you shouldn't hesitate to
    throw these on your car.
    Hard-15,000/These tires handle fairly well and take a while to degrade. These
    will be your best friend during endurance races as nothing sucks more than
    having to pit every 5 laps.
    Medium-25,000/These guys are a nice balance between grip and durability and
    you can risk an endurance race with these though you'll have to pit more often
    Soft-36,000/The big daddy of the racing tires. Don't let the price tag fool
    you, these tires are worth all the money and then some.The grip they offer is
    amazing and will make your car take corners like nothing. They have a really
    crappy degradation rate though as they won't last more than a couple of laps.
    But for every race that's 5 laps I strongly recommend using these tires.
    M.Drivetrain Characteristics
    I've been thinking of ways to improve the FAQ and an explanation of the 
    different types of drivetrains and how they affect the handling of the car
    seemed like a good idea. With that being said I'll try to explain the acronym
    and also give some insight into how it affects the performance of the car.
    !!!IMPORTANT!!!I'll only cover the Drivetrains which are in the game as there
    a couple that are missing but these are variations of the ones listed. These
    are also commonly called layouts also. When I say a high value I mean at least
    65% or above the middle value
    M1.FF(Front-Engine, Front-Wheel Drive)
    Description-As it's name implies with this drivetrain the engine is housed in
    the front of the car and that's also where the torque is transferred. This is
    popular for most mass produced consumer cars as they are very easy to drive.
    Examples: Honda Civic and almost all commonly driven street cars
    Cars Tested-Hona Civic Integra Type R '04, Honda Civic Type R(EK)'97, Honda
    Civic Mugen Motul Race Car SI '89, Honda CR-Z@ '10
    Advantages-Exceptional control, Virtually no chance of spinning out, excellent
    for beginners
    Disadvantages-Exceptionally strong understeer, most cars are underpowered
    making them less useful later in the game
    Handling Characteristics-With no modification you will find that these cars
    have a very wide cornering arc and will even feel a bit unresponsive as the   
    understeer is very strong in these cars. Slow-in, fast-out will be a little
    harder in these cars but they are excellent for beginners offering a smooth
    Summary/Opinion-In short these cars are excellent for beginners as they will
    help you get acclimated to the physics of the game without punishing you 
    harshly for mistakes. The understeer can be a curse for some people and a 
    blessing for others which speaks for itself. Most of the cars will become
    obsolete later in the game with the exception of the Honda Civic Integra Type
    R '04 and the Civic Type R(EK)'97 as when these cars are race modded they can
    easily outperform mid level cars and on some courses can even hang with the
    Oversteer Settings-The front Downforce should be maxed out and the rear should
    be as low as possible as this will make the biggest difference in giving the
    car more oversteer. Also having all the front suspension settings low and the
    rear settings high will add oversteer as will having a camber in the range of
    2.5-4.0 for the front and rear. A Negative Toe Angle of 0 front/-.40 rear 
    will make the car loose but give it much needed oversteer as well. The brake
    balance should also have a low front setting and a high rear setting.
    !!!IMPORTANT!!!Due to the High Camber Angle this setting will kill your front
    tires much faster than normal so expect your tires to heat up quicker than 
    normal and wear much faster
    Understeer Settings-The inverse of everything above will increase the car's
    natural tendency to understeer. The deafult settings for any FF car will give
    you sufficient understeer but if you want to increase it then having a low
    front downforce and high rear downforce will go a long way towards that. Also
    having low front suspension settings and high rear settings will do the trick
    also. Finally the Camber should be left at 0 for the front and rear and the
    Toe angle should be positive with anything above .30 increasing the understeer
    M2.FR(Front-Engine, Rear-Wheel Drive)
    Description-In this layout the engine is mounted in the front of the car
    whereas the torque is transferred to the rear wheels. Most sports/luxury cars 
    have this layout as they can accomodate a bigger and more powerful engine and
    the weight distribution is nearly ideal, staying around 45/55. Examples: Chevy
    Corvette ZR1, Mercedes Benz SLS AMG'10
    Cars Tested-Mazda Miata MX-5, Corvette ZR1 RM, Mercedes Benz SLS AMG'10, Mazda
    RX-7, Nissan 350RZ Gran Turismo 4 Ltd.(Z33) '05
    Advantages-A high amount of oversteer, smaller cornering arc, great weight
    distribution, excellent drifting ability
    Disadvantages-Very hard to control, A high amount of oversteer, Heavier
    average weight
    Handling Characteristics-These cars generally have very strong oversteer. 
    Corners are easier take than in FF cars but throttle control is paramount in
    these cars as flooring the gas while the wheel is turned will result in the
    rear wheels losing traction and your car spinning out unless you can control
    it. This drivetrain is hard to learn but once you master it these cars are a  
    a force to be reckoned with.
    Oversteer Settings-A low ride height combined with other suspension settings
    tilted towards the rear will give more oversteer as will having the rear 
    downforce as low as possible and the front as high as possible. The camber
    should be above 3 for the front and rear and the Toe angle should be somewhere
    above -.20 for the front and rear. The brake balance should be tilted towards
    the rear also at 2/8 or something similiar. WARNING: This will make your more
    unstable than normal and subsequently harder to control.
    Understeer Settings-A high Ride Height and other suspension settings tilted
    towards the front should increase the car's understeer as will having the
    front downforce low and the rear high. A 0 Camber Angle and positive Toe Angle
    around about .30-.40 should make the car understeer sufficiently. The brake
    balance can be set at 1/1 as this will make the car understeer more but will
    make the brakes stronger.
    M3.RR(Rear-Engine, Rear-Wheel Drive)
    Description-In this layout both the engine and drive wheels are at the rear of
    the car, thus placing the Center of Mass at the rear of the vehicle. This 
    drivetrain is rarely used for sports cars anymore with the exceptions being
    Porsche and RUF.
    Handling Characteristics-
    Oversteer Settings-
    Understeer Settings-
    M4.MR(Mid-Engine, Rear-Wheel Drive)
    Description-In this layout the engine is placed right in front of the rear 
    drive wheels, behind the cockpit. This is by far the most popular layout for
    Race Cars as most of the race cars in the game have a MR drivetrain. Examples:
    F1 Racing Cars, Toyota Minolta Race Car '88, Ferrari Enzo Ferrari '02
    Cars Tested-Toyota Minolta Race Car '89, Formula Gran Turismo, Audi R10 TDI
    Race Car '06, Ferrari Enzo Ferrari '02, Ford GT '06
    Advantages-Cornering ability, Excellent Acceleration, Excellent Responsiveness
    Excellent weight distribution
    Disadvantages-Relatively hard to control, Can feel a bit floaty
    Handling Characteristics-These cars handle similiar to FR cars with a little
    more oversteer and a slighty lower chance of spinning out. The responsiveness
    on most of the cars I tested was great, both acceleration and braking were 
    quick. In most cases the cars corner with little difficulty but spinning out
    can be a problem if turning hard while flooring on the gas at low to medium
    Oversteer Settings-Once again a high front Downforce and low rear Downforce 
    will give the car extreme oversteer. Low front settings and high rear settings
    for the suspension will also increase the oversteer. You should have a camber
    of at least 3 in the front and rear and a Toe of about -.20 for the Front/Rear
    for maximum oversteer. Brake balance should be set at 1/1 since this will help
    give the car some much needed control and make your brakes a little stronger.
    Understeer Settings-For the race cars all you need to adjust is the downforce.
    By having a low front/high rear setup you will not only make the car more 
    stable and less prone to spin out, you'll also give the car more understeer.
    If you want to add to this, standard rules apply so high front/low rear
    suspension settings, no Camber and positive Toe for the front/rear will work
    wonders for understeer. If you find your race car is unstable or hard to 
    control this setup will work great though it'll probably result in slower lap
    M5.4WD(Four-Wheel Drive)
    Description-In this layout the engine is plaved in the front of the car but
    the torque is distributed to all 4 drive wheels commonly through a center 
    differential. Since this differential can send more torque to the rear wheels
    or keep the torque equally balanced, these cars are very versatile. Examples:
    Audi R8 5.2 FSI Quattro '09, Lamborghini Murcielago '09
    Cars Tested-Audi R8 5.2 FSI Quattro '09, Lamborghini Murcielago LP-640 Super-
    veloce '09, Lamborghini Gallardo LP 560-4 '08, Nissan GT-R '07, Mitsubishi
    Lancer Evolution GSX-R '07
    Advantages-Exceptional Flexibility, Excellent Grip/Traction, Cornering Ability
    Ease of driving
    Disadvantages-Light to moderate understeer
    Handling Characteristics-Generally these cars are quite stiff when first taken
    on the road. Cornering is a little harder due to the understeer but it's very
    hard to make these cars spin out. One of the best traits of 4WD cars is the
    Torque Sensing Differential which lets you alter the handling of the car. More
    Torque to the rear gives the car more oversteer and it handles like a FR/MR 
    car. More balance gives the car understeer and makes it handle looser than a
    FF but tighter than FR/MR.
    Oversteer Settings-Like everything else having the suspension settings titled
    towards the rear will aid oversteer. The camber can be left alone or set no
    higher than 1(More than this seems to make 4WD cars more stiff) and a front
    Toe Angle of 0 and rear of -.40. Brake balance can be set to 9/9 as this will
    help the car oversteer a little more.
    Understeer Settings-Having a low front/high rear downforce setup will, like
    always, make your car understeer more. Have the suspension settings titled to
    front, A positive Toe Angle and no Camber should increase the understeer. The
    Brake Balance can be set at 1/1 also.
    N.Favorite Car Settings
    Since i've gotten alot of questions on what setting I use for my favorite cars
    i've decided to add the base settings that I use for my cars. I'll make
    slight adjustments depending on the track but for most races these work great
    for me.
    ***I always keep the Traction Control and ABS on 1. If you want to make your
    handle a little better you can put it up to 10 but I prefer to have stronger
    brakes. Of course the difference that I noted between the 2 setting wasn't
    that large. My Tires are also Racing Soft whenever possible
    AUDI R8 5.2 FSI Quattro'09/4WD         CHEVY CORVETTE ZR1'09 RM/FR
    Aerodynamics=10 Front/25 Rear          Aerodynamics=35 Front/35 Rear
    Gear Ratio= Top Speed 230mph           Gear Ratio=236mph
    Initial Torque=10 Front/30 Rear        Initial Torque=30 Rear
    Accel. Sensitivity=40 Front/50 Rear    Accel. Sensitivity=50 Rear
    Brake Sensitivity=20 Front/35 Rear     Brake Sensitivity=40 Rear
    Torque Split=30/70                     Ride Height=0 Front/Rear
    Ride Height=-10 Front/Rear             Spring Rate=13 Front/Rear
    Spring Rate=10.5 Front/Rear            Dampers(Extension)=5 Front/Rear
    Dampers(Extension)=5 Front/Rear        Dampers(Compression)=4 Front/Rear
    Dampers(Compression)=4 Front/Rear      Anti-Roll Bars=3 Front/5 Rear
    Anti-Roll Bars=3 Front/Rear            Camber Angle=3.5 Front/Rear
    Camber Angle=3.5 Front/3.5 Rear        Toe Angle=-.40 Front/Rear
    Toe Angle=-.40 Front/Rear              Brake Balance=1 Front/Rear
    Brake Balance=2 Front/8 Rear    
    SLS AMG'10/FR                          LAMBORGHINI GALLARDO LP 560-4'08/4WD
    Aerodynamics=0 Front/25 Rear           Aerodynamics=0 Front/10 Rear
    Gear Ratio=230mph                      Gear Ratio=217mph
    Initial Torque=10                      Initial Torque=10 Front/5 Rear 
    Accel. Sensitivity=40                  Accel.Sensitivity=40 Front/20 Rear
    Brake Sensitivity=20                   Brake Sensitivity=20 Front/10 Rear
    Ride Height=-10 Front/Rear             Torque Split=40 Front/60 Rear
    Spring Rate=13.2 Front/Rear            Ride Height=-10 Front/Rear
    Dampers(Extension)=6 Front/Rear        Spring Rate=12 Front/Rear
    Dampers(Compression)=4 Front/Rear      Dampers(Extension)=6 Front/Rear 
    Anti-Roll Bars=4 Front/5 Rear          Dampers(Compression)=4 Front/Rear
    Camber Angle=1.5 Front/Rear            Anti-Roll Bars=4 Front/Rear
    Toe Angle=-40 Front/-.20Rear           Camber Angle=1.5 Front/Rear
    Brake Balance=2 Front/8 Rear           Toe Angle=-.40 Front/-.20 Rear
                                           Brake Balance=2 Front/8 Rear
    Aerodynamics=20 Front/30 Rear
    Gear Ratio=199mph
    Initial Torque=7
    Accel. Sensitivity=30
    Braking Sensitivity=15
    Ride Height=-10 Front/Rear
    Spring Rate=14 Front/16 Rear
    Dampers(Extension)=7 Front/Rear
    Dampers(Compression)=6 Front/Rear
    Anti-Roll Bars=4 Front/Rear
    Camber Angle=3.5 Front/Rear
    Toe Angle=-.30 Front/Rear
    Brake Balance=1 Front/Rear
    N.Legal Stuff
    My FAQ may not be reproduced under any circumstances except for personal or
    private use. It may not be placed on any web site or otherwise distributed
    publicly without advance written permission. Use of this guide on any other
    web site except for www.gamefaqs.com and www.ign.com or as part of any public
    display is strictly prohibited, and a violation of copyright.
    Allowed Sites:
    Copyright 2010 Armand Sellers
    - The people at Polyphony Digital who created this excellent game
    - Gamefaqs for posting my FAQ
    - My wife for not giving me hell for writing this
    - You the readers for using this and finding it useful(hopefully)
    Any questions or comments regarding this FAQ please E-mail me at:

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