hide results

    Army Building Guide by azuarc

    Version: 1.01 | Updated: 08/04/09 | Search Guide | Bookmark Guide

       version 1.01, 08/02/2009
      by Stephen "Azuarc" Kittel
    For as long as Ogre Battle has been around, there aren't many guides with good
    strategic suggestions out there. There are decent WALKTHROUGHS that detail the
    basic facts about the game, including...
    * Character classes
    * Units on each level
    * Location of hidden towns and treasures
    * Special items like the zodiac stones
    * How to get the different endings
    * Basic game mechanics
    My goal here is not to duplicate those works. What I really want to do is
    detail some actual TACTICS that go into playing Ogre Battle. Quite literally,
    this is a strategy guide. It is opinionated and personalized, however it also
    delves into explaining aspects of the game in ways I haven't seen much of from
    other guides.
    I. Basic Unit Building Principles
      -12 key points about creating units
    II. Basic Unit Building Structure
      -2x3 units
      -1x3 units (or 1x2)
      -3x2 units
      -2x2 units
    III. Evaluation of Character Classes
      -Small frontline units
      -Small backline units
      -Large units
    IV. Basic Battle Plans
      -4 basic styles for handling a level
    V. Other Battlefield Maneuvers
      -Running Away
      -Playing the Terrain
      -Town Liberation
      -Unit Promotion and Formation
    VI. Fighting Tactics
      -Regarding Paying Attention
      -Your Tactics
      -Enemy Tactics
      -Fighting Bosses
    VII. Tarot Cards
      -Evaluation of each card
    VIII. Item Usage
      -Types of items and impact
    IX. Generic Game Knowledge
      -Promotion vs. Recruitment
    * I. Basic Unit Building Principles  *
    There are quite a few different ways to play Ogre Battle. Some writers have
    their favorite methods. You probably have your own as well.
    However, no matter how you want to try to slice it, the heart and soul of this
    game comes down to the actual units and how you arrange them. Therefore, the
    largest portion of this guide is going to be devoted to actual unit
    Before talking about specific classes, let's think about the way units are
    built from the ground up. Please note that all the statements I am making here
    are "claims" because they are my personal take on the game. You might disagree
    with some of these principles, but my experience is that ignoring them can burn
    you or create a much greater challenge to the game. Unless you're looking for a
    hard mode, you probably want to stick to these.
    CLAIM #1: "Big" characters are usually not worth it.
    * You can have up to 5 characters in a unit.
    ** Big characters count at two spaces in your group.
    ** However, big characters do -NOT- have twice the damage dealing or damage
       taking capacity of small units.
    * Big characters can never lead a unit.
    ** You usually want your leader in the back row, with someone sturdy in front
       of him/her so units set to "Leader" don't force you to burn a lot of
       Revives. (See claim #3.)
    ** Big units often have cool abilities from the back, but it can be dangerous
       to let them actually use those abilities if it means that either your leader
       is exposed or you only have room for 2 small units in front, since big
       characters do tank better than single small characters.
    * Big characters often force your unit to move on strange terrain types like
      snow or water that prevent it from ever really reaching the front lines on 
      most levels.
    * Therefore, most of the best units are going to have 5 small characters.
    Obviously, there are exceptions here. A zombie dragon is a total house in terms
    of damage it can dish and absorb. Gryphons and Wyrms give your unit High Sky
    capability, which is vital to some styles of play. And obviously, fewer people
    in a unit means less damage from group-wide attacks. But overall, you do not
    want to build around the mentality of using beasts in every unit.
    CLAIM #2: The back row is for damage. The front row is for protecting your
              damage dealers.
    In a lot of MMORPG's, groups are formed around the principle of having a tank
    to take the damage for the group, a healer to keep him alive, and the other
    people are damage specialists. Ogre Battle really isn't much different, except
    that you're not required to have a healer. (Of course, you can.)
    Take a look at your line-up of characters that are good in the front row. All
    of their attacks are physical attacks that can ONLY be at people directly in
    front of them. Now, compare that to your back row classes, which typically have
    attacks that are either targeted for better focus fire, or they simply hit the
    entire enemy unit.
    If it were possible to have 5 small units in the back row, I would seriously
    consider it. 5 mages and muses and other groupwide attackers would simply hose
    the opposition.
    Except...those classes also tend to be weaker to attacks, and you will take a
    few before you wipe out your opponent. Front-line characters can potentially
    deal some good damage as well, as far as single-target attacks go, but they
    don't fall down as easily.
    The key to making an effective unit is to balance what should be in the front
    versus what should be in the back. Take the starting unit for Lans, for
    example. Three knights/soldiers in the front, two wizards in the back. Simple
    and elegant, aside from the leader being in the front row. But switch the lead
    to one of the wizards and the unit still performs awesomely throughout the game
    even without modifying it. Ironically, even though the wizards are the most
    effective attackers in the unit, if you were to switch to two knights and three
    wizards, the unit tends to wear down much more quickly and have to go back to
    the shop much sooner. However, it will be more effective for the first fight or
    two, and you can supplement it with items after the battle or simply rotate it
    with a few other units. Or, y'know, add a cleric instead of a wizard.
    CLAIM #3: Your leader should be in the back row.
    Look, no matter how awesome your paladin in the front row is, there are times
    where he's just gonna get creamed, especially if he's in the center. A decent
    number of the units in the game are either set to Leader or to Weak. When the
    entire unit focus fires on one of your guys, it really stinks. I hate those
    units, but it's a perfectly good way to challenge you.
    A perfectly logical response is to keep the units that would get focused in the
    back, particularly your leader. (Especially the Opinion Leader unless you have
    the Iainuki Lord.) *MOST* of the enemy units in the game are supported heavily
    by physical attacks. It's easy to break up the attacks in those units by simple
    placement of the guys in your own units.
    As with all things, there are exceptions. Three knights + back row gryphon can
    be a decent unit, for instance, but it's still not superb.
    CLAIM #4: There's no incentive for having an unfilled unit.
    You can have 5 characters in a unit, counting 2 for beasts. Sometimes,
    especially in the first few levels, the game will attack you with units that
    have only 2-4 characters worth of units. This is somewhat ridiculous since
    there is strength in numbers. The only reason that you could possibly think of
    for not including another character in a unit is to reduce AE damage taken,
    which might reduce your chances of "losing" a battle. Still, that's a pretty
    weak reason, and you're costing your unit a lot of power.
    CLAIM #5: You will probably want to use 10 units on the field at all times.
    After the tutorial level, you're given 6 units by default. Not only are some of
    these units not well-designed, but there's also a reserve of decent troops off
    to the side, and you want to start cultivating your characters for later. Don't
    limit yourself initially by what you're given. That witch you start with can
    lead 2 amazons and 2 soldiers, and you can take the other potential leaders to
    start their own troupe.
    With just 6 units, you'll find yourself stretched thin in the subsequent
    levels, even after adding Gilbert and Canopus. Unless you have two super units
    that just destroy everything and are self-sufficient, odds are that you'll want
    to filter in a number of different units.
    There are exceptions, however it's often simplest to start a battle by
    deploying 10 units and sending them all at the enemy base. You can withdraw a
    unit or two for other duties like liberation or castle defense after they've
    gotten knocked around a bit. If you're the "evil" type that likes to overpower,
    you might have a couple uber units and want to ignore this point, but for a
    more balanced style of play, you'll probably have 11 or 12 (or more) units
    altogether so that in a real bind, you can BELL a wounded unit back and deploy
    reinforcements, perhaps because a unit slipped through toward your base.
    The only thing you may want to watch out for is that if you have very good
    units, there's a decent chance they carry a hefty price tag. 10 high-priced
    units might be more than you can keep up with the expenses for. Be careful if
    you don't have much of a treasury.
    CLAIM #6: Symmetry may be pretty, but it isn't always ideal.
    Not all units can be perfectly balanced, left to right. However, even if a unit
    can be balanced, with two knights in the front, a cleric back-center, and a
    wizard or a valkyrie flanking her on either side, that doesn't mean it's the
    best approach.
    First of all, the enemy will very often want to try to attack in a certain way
    based on your configuration. You can use that to your advantage. In fact, if
    you're feeling very diligent, you can even adjust the formation before each
    battle. I wouldn't recommend that much micromanaging, but it's certainly an
    Second, sometimes it's the best way to protect your leader. Let's return to the
    3 knights + gryphon example. If the leader is the middle knight, and you're
    fighting the wrong unit, he's gonna die. Plain and simple. However, use the guy
    on the right as your leader, and suddenly things aren't quite as bad. Those
    opponents on the left side of the unit shouldn't be able to reach, which means
    the enemy's attacks become separated.
    Third, if you do have a large beast by itself in the front, lack of symmetry
    can often keep it from getting creamed. Put it all the way to one side, and
    your sturdiest back row guy at the other end. The dude in the back won't draw
    all the fire that you might like, but it will help considerably.
    When you make a unit, decide what's going in the unit first. Build it
    symmetrically if it can be. But then adjust the formation right after that so
    you can consider if the unit has weak points.
    CLAIM #7: Flying is a really big deal.
    You will want to have at least a couple flying units in your forces. In some
    cases, I have played the game with ONLY flying units.
    * The game goes much more quickly when you aren't waiting for your slower units
      to get to where everyone else is fighting.
    * You can outrace and outmaneuver your opponent easily. If you're going to
      knock out all the enemy units, it's very easy to sneak a flyer in behind the
      front lines to pick off the units that are running home to mommy.
    * A good liberation unit needs to be flying simply to cover all the territory
      they are going to cross.
    * Battles fought in the sky islands are treacherous for any non-flying unit. If
      they lose, and the pushback sends them off the edge of the island, they're
      gone for the level. Flyers keep on chugging. They also ignore walls on the
      Zenobia and Malano levels.
    Characters that will give your unit flying include Hawk Men, Gryphons, and
    Wyrms. In a pinch, Angels, Demons, and Ghosts also fly, but it's harder to get
    them to dominate the unit with their movement type since there is a hierarchy
    of whose movement type takes over for a unit. Gryphons and Wyrms will give you
    a "High Sky" unit, which moves at a very rapid pace throughout the map.
    "LowSky" units will move as fast as ground troops move on their favorite land
    type, which means that Low Sky is still a tremendous advantage.(*) If you're
    dying to have a ground-based beast, consider pairing it with a wyrm. The wyrms
    sometimes have a larger "size" than the other beast, meaning you might still
    go airborne even with a hellhound in your unit.
    However, the flip side of this coin is that working with "snow" or "shallows"
    or "marsh" or whatever other bizarre movement type you can conjure up is a real
    nuisance. Because the enemy has mostly plains and mountains units, you can
    counter with your own if the fliers miss them. Those aren't bad to have, but
    even then I'm skeptical of mountain units. However, the game doesn't often have
    screwball units that will go completely around you because of their strange
    routes to get to water. Nothing that actually watching the map can't handle.
    You better have a darn good unit to justify that slow mover in it.
    CLAIM #8: Groupwide attacks (AE) are vastly important later in the game.
    AE, or "area effect," is slang for damage abilities that affect multiple
    targets rather than just hitting a single target.
    The opposition doesn't listen to my suggestions very well, so they sometimes
    have some wonky units that only have 2 characters in them or other strangeness.
    Even then, it's pretty safe to assume that an AE attack will hit at least 3
    opponents for as hard as a single-target attack would. So in that sense, a mage
    is much more powerful than a wizard -- they have essentially the same type of
    attack, but the wizard hits one guy twice, and the mage hits everyone once. In
    the first attack round, it's rather unlikely he WON'T hit two targets, so he
    can very rapidly blast away your opponents.
    In the early game, your units will bounce off the opponents' multiples times
    before one of them finally dies. While units are more defensible later in the
    game, they are also much more destructive. When you start getting more powerful
    units that hit the whole group twice, the idea of someone attacking twice to
    the opponent directly in front of them doesn't sound so good any more.
    But you need to plan ahead. The units you pick early on might never evolve into
    something much more powerful. Due to alignment issues, your wizard might never
    become a mage. There are places where you can go very wrong early in the game
    if you're not at least a little bit careful.
    CLAIM #9: Undead are a liability on both sides of the fence.
    Undead are the absolute best frontline units in the game...until you hit a unit
    with a cleric in it. Using units with skeletons or ghosts fronting them require
    you to be more tactical and to plan ahead a bit. You want to usually pair them
    with a non-undead unit in case that dreaded white magic unit is coming up.
    Sometimes it's more trouble than it's worth...but it can also definitely be
    worth it.
    However, on the other side, the absolute worst scenario to deal with is a
    rampaging unit of 4 ghosts and 1 mage that you absolutely cannot stop because
    you can't kill the undead, and even if you're able to kill the mage, it just
    sends them floating back to their home base for a little while. Even if you
    don't like using clerics, for the sake of levels like Pogrom Forest, keep some
    white magic potential in a few of your units. Clerics, princesses, angels,
    paladins, whatever. White magic weapons like Brunhild if you REALLY have to.
    Even the Petrify from Cockatrices counts, oddly enough. But don't depend on
    Judgement and Sun cards. In emergency cases, you can demote other units like
    valkyries to promote them to clerics, as long as you have the alignment to
    return to the old class as well.
    Besides, you want a couple high alignment units to liberate towns with.
    CLAIM #10: Unit compatibility is pretty unimportant.
    Beastmasters supposedly make the beasts in their units fight more effectively.
    Allegedly there's issues with pairing high alignment and low alignment units
    together. Still, my princess (100 ALI) seems to work just fine with my mages
    (0 ALI), and my paladins and monks don't seem to mind being in a group with a
    lich or with demons. Of all the things to worry yourself over, restricting
    yourself in terms of who can be grouped together is not one of them. (The
    actual mechanics involved are slightly more complicated than just alignment,
    but they aren't devastating differences.)
    CLAIM #11: If all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail.
    Your units are not all hammers. Different units are for different purposes.
    You can not make one super unit and clone it eight times...especially when the
    absolute best characters in the game (Princess, Lich) require special rare
    items to create. Even if you just ramrod your units so whatever you've got
    fights whatever they've got, most units will have some kind of counter that
    another one of your parties wouldn't have the same difficulties with.
    Consider how a unit will fight. It may significantly affect how you use it,
    or what you do with the final character you put in it to finish it. If you're
    making a unit out of two gryphons, which have a back row AE attack, you might
    want a leader that does so as well so you can use a hit-and-fade tactic while
    strategically running away. That unit won't be good in a heated melee, but it
    can soften up single opponents without taking any damage itself. Of course,
    units that either include or fight undead are especially important to keep in
    mind, but so is simply comparing attacks like samurai's Iainuki versus
    dollmage's Acid. Enemy samurai units are usually on weak tactics and very
    likely to eliminate one of your characters, which is a huge pain -- but a pain
    you could use yourself. On the other hand, the even damage the dollmage deals
    would cut down on needing to track down opposition that's running for the
    nearest town. You might also want a cleric to go with your samurai to heal the
    self-inflicted damage, whereas the dollmage just needs a good frontline wall to
    Some of the things you'll want some of your units to be able to do...
    * Spread the damage around by targeted attacks or AE.
    * Eliminate undead with white magic.
    * Fly for added mobility.
    * Have high (or low) alignment for liberating towns, which probably also want
      to fly.
    * Deal their damage without taking a beating, perhaps by retreating or by
    * Achieve good single-target damage for fighting bosses.
    CLAIM #12: Ideally, your units should be disassembled and rebuilt every few
    There are 29 stages in the game. The unit that was rather good back in the
    Sharom District might not be so great when you're in the endgame. This happens
    for a few reasons.
    * Not every unit is going to level evenly. Depending on your playstle, some
      units might become completely ineffective if they fall behind. Even if you do 
      your best to maintain alignment exactly the way you want it, and you go to
      all the levels rather than just beelining for the end, there will be units 
      that do not keep up.
    * Certain character classes, like beast men and golems, are great in the very
      early going, and then become woefully inadequate later. (Especially golems.)
      A unit centered around these characters will go from good to bad to worse as
      the game progresses, until you cringe at the thought of bringing them out.
    * You get more people as you move through the levels. Granted, you might not
      get all of the storyline characters if you aren't on the path of good, and do
      all the things you need to on their respective stages, but by the time you're
      halfway through the game, you might have an additional 10 units without
      creating any yourself, plus you probably instinctively recruit during all the
      neutral encounters so you don't have to fight random battles. Having more
      than 10 units compounds the first point when you start juggling units or have
      your favorite 6 or 7 units you do everything with.
    Besides, a stage can take anywhere from 30 to 90 minutes, depending on your
    approach. (Actually, it could be a lot more or a lot less, if we put it that
    way.) After you've played 5 levels, is it really that bad to invest 10-15
    minutes in rebalancing your units?
    Remember, a character doesn't have to stay its current class for the entire
    game. It may be in your interests to change the class of a character after a
    few levels, especially if the old class isn't doing real well. Don't be afraid
    to change a class, especially for a special character that has heightened
    attributes, if it will work out better overall.
    * II. Basic Unit Building Structure  *
    You can fit a maximum of 3 characters in the front or the back of a unit, and
    5 altogether. Large characters count double for your overall headcount, but
    there's nothing stopping you from making a complete front- or back-line unit
    with two beasts.
    Considering that, I'm going to *VERY* loosely term units according to how many
    guys are in the front, and how many are in the back. So Lans' unit would be a
    3x2. (3 front, 2 back.) A unit of 3 back row people being protected by a beast
    in the front would be a 1x3. I'm going to hope it's safe to assume that you're
    using all 5 slots in your groups since it's very rare you would want to do
    otherwise....so a 1x3 is not going to be 4 small units.
    Note: The examples given are simply to illustrate. I am not saying they are
    ideal units. I feel it's more important to tell you how to build a unit than
    to actually specify what goes in it.
    UNIT TYPE #1 - 2 front, 3 back
    My personal experience is that 2x3 units are typically the most effective in
    the game if they don't fall behind in level. Your two front row guys will get
    knocked around a bit from time to time, especially if you're using a class that
    isn't the sturdiest, but your back row units should be providing very good
    damage or support, and the front guys just have to stay alive.
    Example A: front - 2 knights, back - 2 valkyrie, 1 cleric (similar to Aisha)
    Example B: front - 2 hawk men, back - 3 wizards
    The first example is a very balanced unit that has good frontline defense, a
    pair of attackers that can direct their attacks at anyone, and a healer that
    will keep the unit standing a lot longer than your other units. It also
    promotes very well later in the game. The second example is a low sky unit with
    some real firepower to it once those wizards become mages, but it will also
    wear down quickly.
    UNIT TYPE #2 - 1 front, 3 back
    A 1x3 unit assumes you have a beast in the front to guard your leader. Unless
    you have a cleric, don't center the beast. You'll want to draw some heat away
    from it. The beast will take less damage per attack than a small fry, but it
    will take *ALL* of the damage if it's in the middle.
    A possible variation of the 1x3 unit is a 1x2, where you have a second beast in
    the back row. (Rauny's unit comes like this.) The 1x2 is often the best
    approach when you want to actually use a back row ability for a large unit.
    Example A: front - 1 giant, back - 1 cleric, 2 wizards
    Example B: front - 1 wyrm, back - 1 beast man, 1 wyrm (Gilbert's unit)
    The first is a basic style. The beast replaces your two forwards, and the unit
    depends primarily on the back row, just like the 2x3. That back row can be raw
    brute damage (3 mages) or some support (clerics and witches). The style in the
    second example is more likely to be useful later in the game when the beasts
    start to become useful in the back...although a hellhound's fire is nice, some
    of the other attacks are nicer and actually worth paying *some* attention to.
    UNIT TYPE #3 - 3 front, 2 back
    The primary difference between a 2x3 and a 3x2 is that the 3x2 obviously
    depends more heavily on its front line both for offense and defense, but also
    that it tends to be more physical in nature. The back row units are either to
    blast at targets the soldiers can't reach, or support them with heals. 3x2's
    tend to last longer in battle, which makes them as good or better in the early
    part of the game, but when your back row attackers start getting group attacks,
    the complexion changes considerably.
    Example A: front - 3 wild men, back - 2 ravenmen or demons
    Example B: front - 3 knights, back - 2 wizards (Lans' unit)
    Example A would be a low alignment unit that travels as low sky, which makes up
    for having ravenmen in the back row. Example B is much more offensive in
    nature, and probably defensive as well, but lacks the same mobility.
    UNIT TYPE #4 - 2 front, 2 back
    This build is a hybrid between the front row beast of the 1x3 and the more
    defensible 3x2's stronger front line. If you have a unit you're dying to have a
    particular beast in, it's possible this is the best option. Note that it is
    possible to also put the beast in the back with your leader -- while that isn't
    normally recommended, there are times where it works out quite well.
    Example A: front - 1 beastman, 1 hellhound, back - 2 beastmen
    Example B: front - 2 knights, back - 1 valkyrie, 1 cockatrice
    The first example is strictly an early game unit. Beastmen fade later on. But
    if you've got a bunch from square one, that is a way to use them. The extra
    frontman means the hellhound won't be obliterated, but can still serve as a
    defender. (This is much moreso than in a 1x3.) The second example is a bit more
    interesting because it uses the rear beast, which is where Gryphons and
    Cockatrices thrive. (I love my back row gryphons.)
    UNIT TYPE #5 - anything else
    There are other ways to make units if you're feeling especially creative,
    however they are usually not recommended. A 3x1, 3x0, 0x3, or
    1x3-with-rear-beast is often asking for trouble. But for humor's sake, here
    are a couple functional versions.
    Example A: front - 3 knights, back - 1 gryphon
    Example B: front - none, back - 1 valkyrie, 2 gryphons
    Example C: front - 1 wraith, back - 2 sorcerers, 1 tiamat (black dragon)
    Note that both of the first two examples leave the leader exposed, and the
    third relies on undead for protection. Neither are truly "normal" units, but
    they have their place.
    * III. Evaluation of Character Classes  *
    Not all characters are created alike. There's a lot that can be said about each
    type of troop you can have, but I'm gonna stick to the short summary version
    with a rating and maybe a comment on how best to use. You can easily look up
    the vital stats on them with the use of a walkthrough-style FAQ.
    Note: This list includes units that are reasonable to put in either row.
    * Knight/Paladin (A-) - Probably the best defensively, and still able to do
        decent damage. Paladins get 3 attacks.
    * Wild Man/Evil One (B) - This is the low alignment equivalent of the knight.
        He does a decent job, but not quite as good. Although the promotion
        increases his power a bit, he's stuck with 2 attacks.
    * Hawkman/Eagleman/Ravenman (B) - Hawkmen are not especially good offensively
        or defensively, but where they really win out is by making their units low
        sky (assuming no big beasts.) They do this better than any other low sky
    * Ninja (B-) - I'm not much of a fan of these guys, but they can be effective.
        It's like having a weird variant wizard that can only be promoted to mage,
        but can actually be put in the front row if you wanted to. I'm told
        they make good frontline units, but they seem too wizardly to me, even with
        3 attacks.
    * Skeleton/Wraith (B-) - Best defensive unit around, barring a cleric is
        around. Big liability, big nuisance to fight, but potentially big reward
        for using them well.
    * Ghost/Phantom (B-) - Read what was said about skeletons. Same deal, except
        ghosts are really more of a back row unit when you look at their abilities.
        Too bad they can't block physical attacks to your group from back there.
        They can, however, sometimes fly an all-small unit. Phantoms get three
        targeted attacks from the rear, which is nice.
    * Imp/Demon/Devil (C+) - They're alright, I guess. They're much more fun to put
        in the back row, especially when dropping meteors. Still, their only real
        claim to fame is that they are low sky.
    * Samurai (C) - I find them to be Very rarely useful, and not for the back row
        ability, as much as it REALLY HURTS when the game uses one against you.
    * Pumpkin/Halloween (C) - It's very easy to waffle on how good these guys are.
        They can potentially be devastating, but they also miss a ton and they
        cannot finish a unit off. They perform the same attacks from front or back.
    * Beast Man/Dragoner (C-) - Reasonable offense early on, and versatile from the
        back as well, but just doesn't hold up through the levels, even with the
        proper promotions from a Stone of Dragos.
    * Vampyre (D) - His back row ability is slightly more worthwhile than the
        werewolf's, and the life leech from his front row attack sort of lets him
        attack, but he's worthless (albeit hard to kill) during the day. Not worth
        losing a knight over.
    * Tiger Man/Werewolf (F) - Too big a liability. They're very nice at night,
        but trash during the day.
    * Princess (A+) - Sadly, it takes a rare item to make a princess, but they are
        the most powerful characters in the game since, as group leader, they give
        everyone an extra attack! Oh yeah, they also have an AE white magic attack
        for your undead-killing convenience.
    * Wizard/Mage/Sorcerer/Lich (A) - The wizard is awesome for early on in the
        game, but keep his alignment low (10-30) so he can be promoted to mage.
        The other two promotions require special items, but are *WELL* worth it for
        the firepower. The lich is a very close second as the best unit in the
    * Valkyrie/Muse (A-) - The offensive females. They're pretty effective with
        lightning, but the most important part is the promotion to Muse making
        their two blasts go AE.
    * Cleric/Shaman/Monk (B) - Clerics are important on some levels. They kill
        undead. They keep your guys alive a little longer. But unless you build a
        unit around having a cleric, they're often just dead weight when you'd
        rather have another attacker. I prefer to think of them as a nice bonus to
        have, rather than a unit centerpiece...except where undead are concerned.
    * Doll Mage (B-) - A doll mage is a wonderful boon to start the game with, when
        AE attacks are very rare. However, his acid doesn't hold up well, so even
        with the doll master doing 2 per battle, he's still not that hot.
    * Angel/Cherubim/Seraphim (C+) - They hit with white magic, and they're low
        sky. However, their damage is paltry, they can't take a hit at all, and the
        only worthwhile attack is a once-per-battle at the highest promotion.
    * Mermaid/Nixie (C) - Not a very good unit, and painfully expensive, but she
        does get a one-time AE attack after the promotion.
    * Witch (D) - In theory, the witch is a really awesome unit. Incredibly
        frustrating to fight against. However, her effectiveness decreases very
        rapidly with each level, so the only truly redeeming quality is the
        potential to maybe lock down a boss.
    * Faerie/Pixie/Sylyph (F) - Absolutely the worst character in the game. Trash
        at the first level, just as pathetic at the second, and the third adds a
        white magic attack that can be replicated by the angel if you're lacking a
        princess...without being nearly as painful to level up. If there is one
        character you should NEVER EVER bother with, it's the Faerie.
    * Gryphon/Cockatrice (A) - It flies! It does AE from the back! Not a great
        front row attacker, and beware -- the promotion changes its AE attack to a
        status effect instead. Cockatrice's petrify is a nice ability, but I wish
        that it didn't cost me the awesome AE potential of Gale...I usually don't
        promote my gryphons on account of how I use them. However, in fairness,
        Petrify can hit undead, and Gryphons do become less effective at later
        levels since their attacks are physical.
    * Wyrm/Wyvern (A) - It flies! And it tanks and deals damage from the front as
        well as any other beast. Pricy, but if you're going to have a beast up
        front, this is probably the one to have.
    * Giants (B-) - Giants are not awesome units, but they work acceptably well in
        a pinch. There are 3 separate promotions, of which the best one (Titan) is
        not available until level 15 and requires high alignment. It gets 2 gales
        per battle in the back row, which is the same as the gryphon's back row
    * Hellhound/Cerberus (C+) - As good a front row unit as any other large unit
        early on. Their usefulness dips later in the game, but the cerberus's back
        row ability to put opponents to sleep is at least an interesting footnote.
    * Dragons (C) - I know I'm going to get some disagreement here, but the truth
        is dragons are not awesome unless you want to level up a character that's
        difficult to work with. Some of the promoted versions are quite nice, and
        potentially very powerful -- especially the zombie D -- but you have to
        work pretty hard to get the alignment you want on your dragon, and they
        really don't seem to be *ANY* better than other large units...lots of
        misses, can get beaten up pretty easily most of the time, and only two
        front row attacks. If you have a dragon, it's to have it in the back row.
        However, Ogre Battle dragons don't fly, and non-flying big units had better
        be tanking something as far as I'm concerned. Use at your own risk.
    * Golem/Rock Golem/Iron Golem (D) - Very high defense, very low health. That
        means they're **EXTREMELY** vulnerable to magic attacks. The only redeeming
        quality they have -- as a wall -- doesn't work so well when they die to any
    * Octopus/Kraken (D) - Gets 4 attacks per battle and a really nice back row AE
        attack upon promotion...but that means it gets 4 chances to miss per
        battle, and the really nice back row AE attack only works when they're in
        the water. Oh, and that means the unit moves ridiculously slow through
        anything besides water, and not very fast through shallow water at that.
    It should also be noted that a few of the special characters in the game are
    unique classes you can't recruit at all: namely, Debonair, Tristan, and the
    3 dragoons. I'll leave it to you to decide if you want to include a decent, but
    insanely expensive unit.
    One thing that should strike you, however, is the spread between front and back
    row units in terms of quantity and effectiveness. (Units that could go both
    ways are in the front list.) Granted, I'm telling you that large units should
    mostly go in the front, which helps balance things out. The truth is, however,
    you get MUCH more power and flexibility from your back row. Even the greatest
    of frontline units can't do anything exceptionally impressive beyond attack a
    third time.
    * IV. Basic Battle Plans             *
    We've finally established our fighting force and are prepared to go into the
    next level. How do we actually handle the stages themselves?
    Well, there are a few approaches. I don't want to completely invalidate any of
    them, since they simply represent different playstyles.
    Method 1: Aerial Vanguard
    This technique requires having mostly air units. Your leader should preferably
    be a Low Sky unit so he doesn't outpace your other units, so put him with a
    Hawkman or a Demon or something similar. As soon as the level begins,
    immediately pause the game and deploy your other flying units and send them at
    the enemy base, along with your leader. Do battle with the units that get in
    your way, however on some levels this might only be the opposing flying units
    since the ground troops might take winding, snaking paths to reach your base.
    If a friendly unit is struggling, just have them retreat rather than getting
    smacked around. You should be able to clear a path for your leader to pause at
    the boss and use a mass summons if its needed, although with all of your units
    charging forward, it's probably not.
    The biggest drawback to this method is that you will not fight all of the
    enemy's units, and some will probably walk away limping. This is NOT a
    technique you want to use if you need experience for your units. However, for a
    few critical or annoying levels, it works extremely well. I've found that often
    this becomes a favorite tactic of mine for clearing the last 5 maps or so.
    Another drawback is that you will not be liberating towns or doing any of the
    story stuff that occurs during the actual levels, which again lends itself
    toward not using this method until at least after Malano or so.
    Once again, this method does require you to have predominantly air units.
    Having all High and Low Sky units does simply feel like cheating sometimes. It
    also pigeonholes your units tremendously since every unit has to have a
    Gryphon, Wyrm, or some kind of low sky flier. Even if you're able to use the
    vanguard, you might still fall into one of the other styles.
    Method 2: Smashmouth
    I probably use this one most frequently during the early part of the game.
    Pause right away and deploy your units. Send all of your units at the enemy
    base. Your flying units will meet the initial surge and hopefully stall the
    enemy's advance long enough for your ground troops to reach. You should capture
    the town or temple closest to the enemy base and set up camp there to shorten
    the battlefield. Let all the units fight you, and then when they stop coming,
    go take out the boss.
    Depending on the number of flying units you have, you might want to approach
    this strategy differently. If you've only got two or three fliers, (you should
    have at least that many,) use them initially just to thwart opposing fliers so
    your base doesn't get sacked. Also, once you've set up your "operations
    center," you might try to get some fliers off to the side to loop behind where
    you're fighting at your town so they can swoop in and grab the units that are
    trying to go back and revive their fallen.
    This method will lead to a fast and furious style of eliminating the enemy.
    Because you are so close to the enemy base, units won't be travelling very far
    between deployment and reaching your forces. Since, ideally, you'll be removing
    those units fairly quickly as well, that means reinforcements will arrive
    rapidly as well. Be prepared to carefully rotate which unit is the absolute
    closest to the front while staying within the town borders. If your units at
    the front are not able to overpower their's, you'll be forced into using a lot
    of tarot cards and items. However, since you're wiping out all the enemies for
    experience, this shouldn't be much of an issue unless you're skipping levels.
    At some point during the battle, you'll want to send out a liberator, or maybe
    even two if you wait until the very end. See commentary later regarding
    liberating towns. You might also choose to keep a unit back at your base as a
    safety net in case someone does sneak by, although if you keep a careful eye on
    the battlefield -- zoom out when you don't have a command to issue, and pause
    the game when you do -- that probably shouldn't happen unless a unit both gets
    past you and overpowers your chase unit. If it does, use a BELL so you can
    redeploy a unit at your base.
    Method 3: Playing for Territory
    This style has more of a role-play feel to it. One of the greatest failings of
    the game is that it's supposed to be about territorial control and liberating
    towns as you move through the map. A large number of sources will tell you to
    specifically not liberate a town or a temple under any circumstances while the
    level is on-going. And this is wrong on a bunch of levels, mostly in terms of
    game design. Ogre Battle 64 corrects this issue in quite a few ways like unit
    fatigue, enemy units not starting at the base, and varied AI styles. However,
    in the original OB, if you decide to play the game the way it was intended, you
    have to go out of your way a little.
    Still, playing for territory can be a bit more fun. You'll want to send about
    half your troops up the middle, possibly detouring for nearby towns. In the
    meanwhile, your other units will go off and liberate towns that are off the
    beaten path. If you're going to play this way, I strongly recommend you
    initially keep your leader at your home base so that enemy units are all drawn
    in the same direction. The reason for this is related to how enemy units move.
    Enemy units will typically do one of the following: (**)
    1) Charge the rebel base.
    2) Charge the liberated town closest to the enemy base.
    3) Charge the rebel leader.
    4) Mindlessly pursue the unit nearest to the base.
    What's important to understand here is that this is determined for each unit
    WHEN THEY ARE DEPLOYED. So initially, the enemy rushes you because all four of
    those conditions are in the direction of your base. Later on, if you've got the
    castle surrounded waiting for the last few opponents to come out, they will
    probably all attack in the same, potentially strange direction to get to the
    nearest unit.
    Additionally, like you, the computer does not micromanage its units with every
    tick of the clock, and usually only assigns new orders when their movement ends
    (because they lost a battle or got to where their objective had been when they
    started travelling towards it.) As a result, you will want to watch out for the
    following if you are taking a slower approach toward the base:
    * If you send your leader off to liberate, you will have units moving to
      bizarre places that may do bizarre things afterwards. I wouldn't recommend.
    * Your liberators might get pursued rather than your main force. (Occasionally
      the enemy does send a unit specifically to recapture a distant town, but this
      isn't very common. Usually they are trying to catch your liberator or the
      nearest rebel holding.) The biggest threat that this poses is that your
      liberator typically frees a town, grabs a tarot, and leaves...meaning the
      town is completely undefended. That same unit will then try to track down
      your liberator at the next town it was at and recapture that one as well. One
      level I routinely have trouble with this is Kastolatian Sea. You'll also see
      this when you talk to Yulia about Canopus on the third level, and the enemy
      tries to reclaim her home town.
    * Once one of your units has become the bullseye for an opponent, they will
      faithfully chase that one single unit until either you or they are destroyed.
    Method 4: Lie in Wait
    This is the most boring approach, in my opinion. Sit in your castle with your
    leader and a couple other units out, and just wait for the enemy to come
    bounce off you, until they stop bouncing. This can be a time-consuming approach
    because the enemy units will take a while to walk from their base to your's,
    and the computer only gets to deploy so many units while the rest wait in the
    base for another unit to get destroyed. On some levels, this might seem to take
    It also taxes your coffers since you might not be getting any tribute while you
    do this. You *can* send a liberation team out, but it's risky on most levels.
    While I don't mean to tear down other approaches to the game, this isn't one I
    would necessarily recommend.
    * V. Other Battlefield Maneuvers     *
    While the previous section dealt with overall gameplans, you may need to pull
    additional moves out of your playbook from time to time.
    A) Running Away
    You don't always retreat because you outright lost the battle and the game
    forces you backwards. Sometimes you want to tell your unit to withdraw. This
    can happen for a variety of units besides the basic "OMG, they're gonna get
    their butt kicked."
    A number of these ideas are more closely related to fight strategies, but
    because a large number of them involve the bigger picture rather than fighting
    the actual battle, I mention it here.
    1. Terminating a pointless battle to prevent damage. Example: I have a melee
       unit. You have an undead unit. I can do nothing to you.
    2. Ending a battle after your unit is done attacking. Example: A unit with two
       gryphons and a dollmage gets 3 AE attacks in round 1, and then nothing
       afterwards. After that unit gets its attacks in, during round 1, why should
       they stand there afterwards and take damage? Run away, and then chase right
       back after that unit to do it again. You might never take damage as you Gale
       them to death.
    3. To prevent severely wounding an enemy that will then run away. Example: I
       have two units in a town and I'm being attacked. The unit I'm fighting
       becomes SEVERELY mangled, and the one Wyrm in it will just escape to revive
       the unit. I make my unit run away so *I* get bounced away rather than the
       enemy, even though they really lost. My second unit then mops them up.
    4. To slingshot into another battle. Example: I have an ace unit in a battle
       another unit can easily finish afterwards. However, there's another unit
       directly behind them that I'd like that unit to fight. Because I looked at
       the battlefield beforehand, I know that they'll be right on top of that unit
       if they lose, so I forfeit the battle and run away.
    5. To cover ground more quickly. Example: I have a unit that got beat up and
       wants to withdraw. It gets attacked, so I retreat and it leaps away from the
       enemy. I get attacked again (since they're moving faster than me) and I
       retreat again to get even farther toward where I'm going.
    6. To let another unit get the experience. Example: I have a level 15 unit and
       a level 11 unit. The 11 really needs to catch up, but has a hard time doing
       damage to the enemy. I let the 15 kick the snot out of them, and then the 11
       just has to tickle them really hard. They immediately level up from wiping
       out a whole unit above their level.
    7. To prevent the killing of a boss's minion so that the next unit can just
       push them over with one hit and then actually spend most of their effort on
       the boss. Since boss minions revive immediately, it's not always wise to
       finish them off near the end of a combat.
    B) Playing the Terrain
    On certain levels, a unit that moves across Mountain, Water, or even Plains
    will take some strange circuitous routes. (Diaspola is especially bad for
    this.) This works both ways. While it may take longer for an odd unit to make
    it to the front, the fact that their route is unique can often help
    considerably in sneaking in behind units or in intercepting enemy advances.
    For your units, that means that the (mostly) plains movers of the enemy can
    often easily be dropped in on by a mountain mover sitting on a large rock
    they're going around.
    For the enemy units, that means you have to keep an eye out for units that have
    snuck past you because they were going waaayyy out of the way.
    Both of these points are very well highlighted on Kastolatian Sea. The last
    island has a large rock on it. Chances are, you'll hole up in the last visible
    town and defend from there. All the ground units here take the path, so your
    mountain unit can just climb up on the rock and guard. At the same time, this
    is an absolutely wonderful level for ocean units, and the computer's got a
    bunch of them that will loop around the north, and go completely around your
    main force unless you defend against that.
    Of course, this is one of the primary reasons why flying units are so vital to
    the game. They have absolutely no benefit where an actual battle is concerned,
    however they can outmaneuver the opponent in all ways imaginable.
    Another thing to remember about terrain is that you will fight on some kind of
    land. While it's usually not a MAJOR bonus, it is something you'll want to
    think about...especially if there are Octopods/Krakens involved, which get a
    major bonus while fighting in water, and are a completely pathetic miss-fest on
    The final thing to consider is that, like strategically retreating into new
    battles, you can often lead your opponent into being bounced around, or even
    off the map completely in the case of Sky Islands. It's fun to narrowly beat an
    enemy unit, and watch them disappear over the edge.
    C) Town Liberation
    I personally believe towns should be liberated during your campaign on that
    level. I'm aware that certain strategies save them for later so you can rapidly
    alter your reputation later on. However, for playing a level with a somewhat
    "normal" approach, you're going to want to receive some measure of tribute,
    rather than playing completely off the bonuses for finishing stages or milking
    a single level for long periods. At the same time, many levels have events that
    will only trigger during that level. I don't keep a big strategy guide next to
    me to remember when this happens...I simply play the level and take them as
    they come. The only thing I actually have to remember is to do Antalia before
    the Tundra (to get one of the special characters.)
    If you are playing with any strategy other than simply bumrushing the boss
    ASAP, there should be little reason to NOT want to liberate towns. The real
    question is whether you do it during the level's fighting, or once all the
    enemies are disposed of. Usually I prefer to do at least some of it during.
    This way, a battle that does last an entire day helps you out a bit, and you
    can restock tarot cards if necessary.
    There are some reasons not to, however. Liberation affects your reputation...in
    fact, it's about the only thing that really does. The gain (or loss) is based
    on the alignment of the liberating unit. If you wanted to rapidly gain
    reputation, you'd need to liberate towns with a high ALI leader. Of course,
    there are some very easy ways to lose reputation if that's your goal -- towns
    or your base being recaptured especially. Also, if you happen to draw a World
    card when liberating towns, all those Hanged Man cards you draw later can
    really start to suck.
    Typically, you'll want to dedicate one unit as the liberator unit. They are
    always a high sky or low sky, high ALI unit. I like to try to keep their levels
    up so they can fight in a pinch, but technically you wouldn't need to...just
    get a cleric to kill some ghosts on Pogrom Forest and then never fight with her
    again. That unit can fly to the distant places none of my units will pass by.
    I'll also send any of my banged up units to the nearest town, liberated or not,
    the way that the computer does. This often takes a lot of the main route towns.
    D) Unit Promotion and Formation
    Unless you're extremely picky, this is only a tactic for when you're in some
    real trouble. You can change the formation of a unit on the fly to try to
    shield a low health character. Or, under other circumstances, you can even
    change classes during the battle. Got a Valkyrie in the unit, but you really
    need a Cleric to handle some undead? Just check your ALI first to make sure you
    can change back. The most important aspect of this is that units can be
    promoted during a level. While I usually only look for the "OK UP" between
    stages, there are some crucial upgrades that are worth watching out for, many
    of which occur at level 15. When you have reversible upgrades late in the game,
    sometimes you do want to step back, like going from Monk to Shaman for 3 single
    target heals instead of 2 AE. Still, it's not usually worth the bother; just
    something to consider.
    E) Use Pause
    When the level starts, pause to do your deployments so your units will follow
    as one mass. It's a significant advantage over the computer, whose units will
    come out all piecemeal.
    Later on, if you decide you need to issue a command, pause the game first. You
    might not be able to move the cursor to your unit before something else happens
    that pulls you away from that point. If the action is time-sensitive, and you
    can issue commands while paused, why WOULDN'T you pause?
    And, most importantly, you can always pause before a battle begins. If nothing
    else, pausing before a battle lets you do something you were about to, before
    you forget in the heat of watching a battle, however there are some
    particularly abusive things you can do at this point. Using healing items,
    especially. When preparing to fight a boss, sending your leader first and then
    popping a SUMMONS right before you fight will bring all the units right on top
    of you so the minions don't revive between bouts.
    * VI. Fighting Tactics               *
     (Fight it out!)
    There may not be as much to do in Ogre Battle during fight sequences as in most
    games, where you actually have direct control over the battle. However, your
    unseen hand can be quite powerful, even when the only options you really have
    are to change tactics, use a tarot card, or run away. Retreat was covered in
    the previous section.
    First of all, the most important rule of battle....PAY ATTENTION!
    You will not make the tactical decisions you need to if you aren't keeping
    track of what's going on. Chances are pretty good you know what is going to
    happen before it happens. You should keep track of how many times each unit has
    attacked so you know what else is still coming. (Hint: everybody goes once
    before anyone goes a second time; everybody takes their second turn before
    anyone with a third turn goes.)
    There are tons of times where I've made poor decisions simply because I thought
    I had one more attack, or because I didn't. I specifically try to horde Emperor
    cards for occasions like this, and sometimes it can influence your choice of
    battle tactics, or whether or not to run away before you get walloped a third
    time. The game may have a very laidback, leisurely feel to it, since you can
    pause at any time, and it isn't action-oriented, however If you are not paying
    attention during battles, you will miss out on some very important windows of
    One other important thing to gauge is which tactics the computer is using.
    More on that in a minute.
    Now, it's nice to also mentally try to keep track of who's winning the battle.
    However, it doesn't pay off very much most of the time, and you probably don't
    have time to keep up. (You do turn animations off so non-boss battles don't
    last 5 minutes, right?)
    You have four options for battle tactics, BEST, LEADER, STRONG, and WEAK.
    Most of the time, you want to leave your unit on BEST. In theory, they should
    attack the targets they are able to damage the most. The AI isn't always
    brilliant here, but you can at least count on wizards to use the right damage
    type, and for physical attackers to go after softer targets first. This is
    *usually* what you want -- to deal as much damage as possible. However,
    sometimes you need to exert a little more control.
    The second most likely choice for fighting is STRONG. STRONG is especially good
    as the general rule for a unit if they have some strong AE, and frontline
    attackers that are likely to waste attacks on targets that are already low in
    health. In fact, I would dare say that you would only ever want to default a
    unit to BEST or STRONG. The other two are for special occasions and,
    ironically, the most frequent time I change tactics is to go between BEST and
    LEADER is the one option you will almost never want to use. Kill off the leader
    so the unit will run away from you? About the only time you will use leader is
    when you are facing an undead unit that there is simply no way of dealing with.
    Kill the leader and run away. Your units are not always very bright where
    fighting undead are concerned, and they will continue to try to attack the
    ghosts they can't hurt with targeted attacks when they could hit the leader. If
    your goal is to hit the lead of an undead unit (either to kill him off
    specifically, or so your ranged units do some good before the cleric finally
    casts healing,) you simply must put LEADER on.
    No, actually, what I would rather have is a "NOT LEADER" option. Most of your
    units aren't going to manhandle the enemy so badly they won't escape. Maybe a
    Princess or a Lich or something else nasty can, but otherwise, you *want* your
    opponent to come back. And all too often, your guys are so caught up in
    attacking the leader without seeing the bigger picture. This is the time when
    you need to jockey between STRONG and WEAK. You'll use STRONG much more
    frequently here. since typically the goal is to stop the slaughter of a
    low-health leader. This tactic also extends to units where killing one more guy
    in it is going to make the leader run for the nearest town. When you *don't*
    want to kill a unit because you aren't going to finish it off, use STRONG.
    WEAK is a rather weak tactic for many of these same reasons. Unless you're in
    way over your head with a particular battle, it's unlikely you want to pick off
    the sickly gazelles in the bunch. The primary time I will use WEAK tactics is
    when I'm fighting a cleric so something actually gets dead.
    On the flipside, your opponents use the exact same tactics. There's a strange
    irony to the way you fight versus the way your opponent fights. Offensive
    success for you is not killing the leader, not killing too many people in the
    unit unless you're going to finish it off, and not crippling the unit so badly
    it will run away. Success for the A.I. is the exact opposite -- it wants to
    kill your individual guys through any means possible.
    Fortunately, it doesn't have any actual tools at its disposal, and has to rely
    on good match-ups and a little luck. You can potentially deprive it of these
    things most of the time, but there are some units that are simply bad news, and
    it usually comes down to which tactics they're using. BEST and STRONG are not
    normally a problem, however units that are on LEADER or especially WEAK are not
    your friends.
    Public enemy number one, where hostile tactics are concerned, are samurai.
    Iainuki usually hits for a lot of damage, and it's targeted. It's extremely
    common for these units to be on WEAK tactics, and to take out some low health,
    low armor target like a wizard. Seeing two of these guys in a group is almost a
    sure sign somebody on your side is going to die. If only samurai were so
    productive when they fought for you...
    However, many other units will use these tactics. It's important to pick these
    up as soon as possible so you can be sure to retreat or use a tarot at the
    right moment. If a unit has targeted attackers, it's usually very easy to pick
    out what they're using. If somebody who can hit *anyone* in the group hits the
    lowest health guy, there's a decent chance it's on WEAK. (Or it could be
    coincedence. See if it happens a second time, if you can afford to.) Likewise,
    the highest health is possibly STRONG, and going after the leader regardless of
    being high or low is probably LEADER. If there's no pattern at all, it's on
    BEST. If you're aware of which targets are available for physical attackers,
    it's sometimes possible to deduce this from their behavior as well. In a 3x2
    unit, you always want your highest health guy in the middle because against
    weak tactics, your low man on the totem is just going to get a beatdown...best
    if he can't be hit from anywhere at all.
    The main idea behind tactics -- both using your own, and recognizing your
    opponents -- is to know when there is a bigger problem and you're going to have
    to intervene. It's usually better than using a Revive afterwards.
    When fighting a boss, you're automatically going to lose if you don't take out
    the leader. That doesn't mean you should use LEADER tactics, however you will
    need to think carefully. Since the boss is in a town, the minions are going to
    revive after every fight, but they will not heal completely if you leave them
    at low health. So either you need to very judiciously run away -- and against
    some bosses like Norn, that may mean simply running away before the battle
    starts if a bad unit is attacking -- or you need to use an evil little trick
    involving a certain item.
    Mass Summons, or SUMMONS in the inventory screen, brings all friendly units on
    top of the leader. This is only useful if you understand how the game's
    programming works. With each "tick" of the clock, it first moves each of your
    units by however fast they're supposed to go, then each of the A.I.'s, and then
    does whatever things happen after each of these turns, like adding a point of
    health to units recovering in a town....or reviving opposing characters that
    are dead but in a town. Whenever it moves a unit, it decides if it should enter
    battle. Conveniently, this means that if *ALL* of your units are in range to do
    battle at the *EXACT* same time, there is no interrim for the game to stop and
    revive the dead minions. Basically, it's an exploitation of game
    mechanics. (***)
    Bosses are still difficult enough that you'll need to run multiple units out
    there normally, all of which will get thoroughly beat up against the tougher
    bosses. However, you won't end up banging your head on a wall for no reason
    whatsoever...and considering that you *can* beat any boss you can reach, and
    you've already cleared all the opposition and could just gradually take however
    long you need to to beat the boss, there's not really any harm.
    Still, if you feel better with not cheating the game, you're going to want to
    watch the health of minions very closely. With some of the fights, it's not the
    boss's health and longevity that is the issue so much as his buddies.
    * VII. Tarot Cards                   *
    The only thing you can do directly in battle is toss out a tarot card. You can
    have up to 14 in your arsenal, which you get from either liberating towns or
    using JOKERs. Depending on how often you use them, you might find yourself
    routinely throwing away cards to pick up better ones, or running out and not
    having them when you need them, so it's important to get a balance for how
    often to throw a tarot. Generally speaking, they should be for special
    occasions, but don't hold back for fear of not having them later. (I might make
    an exception for Judgment.)
    Out of the 21 cards available, 8 of them (Chariot, Death, Hermit, Judgment,
    Justice, Magician, Sun, Tower) are strictly for dealing damage to the enemy.
    While a couple of these have special conditions, particularly Sun and Death,
    this is the logical place to start off talking about tarot cards.
    The first thing to be aware of is that you should probably not try to kill
    enemies with tarot cards. Any enemy finished off by a card gives the experience
    to your leader. Granted, that does make your tarot cards stronger, but this is
    going to cause your leader's alignment to plummet. Unless you are playing the
    evil dictator, this is a strategy you are probably going to want to avoid. It's
    also potentially going to take away precious experience from the unit that is
    in the battle. If you're going to use a damage move, it's usually best to use
    it at the beginning of a battle to soften up your opponents. 
    However, since your role is to be the general, not the artillery, the other
    cards are very important to address as well, if not more important. I find that
    typically when I have to discard tarot, I begin with the direct damage cards.
    CHARIOT, HERMIT, JUSTICE, MAGICIAN, and TOWER may as well all be the exact same
    card. They're all fairly common cards, and they all serve the same function --
    to damage the entire opposing side of the board. The only difference between
    them is that they do so using different damage types. Hermit is electric,
    Magician is fire, Chariot and Tower are physical, and Justice is "just ice."
    Rating: C
    DEATH is probably the worst card in the bunch. Since all it does is finish off
    low health enemies, which is precisely what you don't want to do (under certain
    playstyles.) It's a card that will very rarely get used.
    Rating: F 
    PRIESTESS and EMPRESS are very handy utility cards. In fact, if you had a
    never-ending supply of these two, you'd probably be quite happy. However, since
    you can use CUREs and HEALs between battles, you want to try to save these for
    times when someone isn't going to survive a battle. To that effect, Priestess
    is usually just as good as Empress since your primary goal is to get your units
    to survive that one battle, and 50 health is normally enough to turn the tide.
    You can always mend up afterwards if you choose to.
    Rating: A
    EMPEROR is one of the nicest cards to have in your hip pocket if you're paying
    attention. It's *very* frustrating to fight a battle where one more attack from
    anyone in the unit would have been enough to finish off the last guy.
    Especially when you had that one attack and it was a miss. If you're counting
    your attacks, you can wail on your action button during the last attack and
    still get a chance to act before the battle ends. Emperor will let you extend
    the battle long enough to kill off the last dude without having to do it
    Rating: A-
    FORTUNE can be handy in a pinch, to save a unit that for whatever reason you
    can't afford to have run away. Maybe you need them to fight a different unit
    right afterwards. Maybe they're defending a town or your home base and about to
    lose. Maybe they'll fall off a sky island. But for all other occasions,
    remember, you can always retreat.
    Rating: C
    FOOL is a less useful version of Fortune. It makes everyone but the leader run
    away. This is handy if you need the leader dead, but except as a third-rate
    anti-undead card, I rarely ever use this except against bosses. Even then, it's
    not really necessary.
    Rating: D
    HIEROPHANT is used to put your opponents to sleep, which anyone who has ever
    fought a witch will tell you is very useful. You can completely shut down an
    entire unit (if you're lucky.) Under the right circumstances, it can keep
    clerics from healing, basilisks from petrifying, or just generally the
    opposition from hitting you. It does sometimes miss, and the enemy can be woken
    up from being hit, so be sure to plan your tactics accordingly to not spread
    around the damage too much.
    Rating: B
    LOVERS is a very closely related card. However, where hierophant disables your
    opponents, lovers makes them work for you instead. It carries about the same
    resistance rate, however the charm does not break on damage.
    Rating: A-
    TEMPERANCE is the card for getting out of problems caused by Stuns and Charms,
    which is basically what the last two cards are. I usually hang onto at least
    one temperance card at all times for when I see the dreaded witch
    STUN-STUN-STUN-STUN-STUN at the beginning of a fight. It's dead weight in your
    deck most of the time, since there aren't a ton of enemies that do things it
    can ward off, however it can be golden when you do need one.
    Rating: B
    MOON is a really screwball card that can be really powerful, but more often
    than not goes unused. Front row units are rarely good in the back, and vice
    versa. There are some exceptions, but what better way to mess with a good unit
    than to bring all the wizards to the front row? See, the problem with this is
    that it's likely automatically putting your unit on LEADER tactics. Even though
    the enemy may be less effective, you're probably also less effective at
    actually finishing it off. Does not work against most bosses, although I've
    heard it can work on Kapella.
    Rating: C
    HANGED MAN, despite being obnoxiously common, is actually not half bad. When
    first getting used to the game, it seems like a terrible card. It doesn't deal
    damage, and it doesn't keep your guys alive, however it's sort of in the same
    category as Emperor -- it makes your units more effective at inflicting pain.
    It's not totally awesome, but it can be effective.
    Rating: C
    STRENGTH is the exact opposite card. Strength does just what it sounds like it
    should, and strength is the only attribute that affects how much damage you
    take from physical attacks. More strength = less damage taken. Well, yes, and
    it does increase your physical damage OUTPUT as well.
    Rating: C+
    STAR is the protective card for stopping the damage altogether. Expect to see
    misses galore after dropping a star. Missing is far more effective than
    reducing the damage, making Star the handiest defensive card, except that it
    doesn't help against magic attacks...
    Rating: B+
    WORLD is the answer for that problem. It's an uncommon card, and has a powerful
    draw effect in addition to a rather good battle power. It staves off all
    non-physical damage against your units. Considering there are some battles
    where all you take is magic damage (like, oh, fighting Rashidi?) this is a
    great ace in the hole. It's also a very good answer against most units on WEAK
    or LEADER, since the effective ones typically use targeted attacks that don't
    do physical damage.
    Rating: A-
    * VIII. Item Usage                   *
    Items are an important part of the powergamer's arsenal. At the same time,
    items are rather overpowered, and you might choose to simply not use them to
    create more of a challenge. It's almost conceivable to beat the game with a
    single unit if you have a ton of items at your disposal. (This might be another
    interesting challenge.)
    There are a few general types of items.
    -Consumables. These are the ones that are overpowered. Items that help you heal
    damage between battles, revive the fallen, move your units around rapidly,
    charm an enemy unit to your side, or quite a few others.
    -Promotion items. Technically these are consumable as well, but you can't buy
    them, and they're vital to making very good units. If you could purchase Crowns
    or Staffs, you better believe I would be trying to convince you to! As it is,
    with only maybe 2 or 3 of each of these per full game, you'll want to make good
    use of your specialized units.
    -Equipment. When you get one of these, give it to *somebody*. There's no reason
    to have these rot in your inventory.
    -Miscellaneous Stuff. Some of the unusable items are quest-based, like the
    zodiac stones or the Hero Star. Others are just given to you to sell.
    It's a good idea not to get too addicted to these. You can purchase them in any
    "shop" town, of which you'll find one on every map. The basic item is CURE,
    which can restore 50 HP to any character between battles. You'll get some
    better heals and REVIVEs as well. However, the units that can really be abusive
    are the ones that let you move units. BOOTS, BELL, and SUMMONS all let you do
    some pretty nasty things.
    BELLs are great for basic tactical retreats. Let's say you have 11 units and
    you send one out and just let it get beat on. After it's mostly dead and
    retreating slowly, use a bell to finish the process and send your last unit
    out. OK, maybe that isn't all that powerful. However, Bell can often save your
    butt when you've got 10 units that are all well away from your base and you
    realize a unit has snuck past you that you won't be able to catch. It's also
    about the only way to remove a friendly unit from the battlefield that is
    irritating you for whatever reason. (Or you could try getting it killed off
    BOOTS are much more dangerous, however. The ability to bring your most awesome
    ground unit right to the front lines and start wreaking havoc is extremely
    powerful. It also lets you easily defend towns you've liberated and a million
    other things I'm not going to go into because I don't advocate exploiting them.
    It also gets expensive to make a habit of using BOOTS.
    SUMMONS are my favorite, because of how easily they let you beat a boss. I
    touched on this earlier, but the basic gist is "YOURNAME has encountered the
    enemy!" -> pause -> SUMMONS -> watch every one of your units sequentially fight
    the boss without minions reviving.
    JOKER is another nice one to mention. At some point in the game, you're going
    to burn your Tarot cards and be caught without anything useful. I find this
    tends to especially happen on the very last level. Instant Tarot cards are
    always nice. If you're addicted to tarot cards, you'll buy a lot of jokers.
    Most of the other consumable items are of questionable value. Making it
    instantly day or night isn't often a big deal unless you fight with Vampyres,
    and the CHARM to take over an enemy unit is quite expensive. Do keep an eye in
    your inventory for the other things you come across, however. After a stage is
    over, go into a completed level with a partially empty unit to use EGGs, and
    use up those CHIMEs as well.
    The most important three promotion items to be on the lookout for are CROWN,
    STAFF, and UNDEAD. Crown lets you make any female unit (as an amazon) into a
    Princess, and Staff + Undead promote a mage to sorcerer and then to lich.
    Undead can also be used to make zombie dragons, but I wouldn't do that unless
    you have a bunch of undead rings going to waste with no staffs to pair them
    with. Since staves are easier to come by, this isn't too likely. Other
    promotion items include BLOODKISS (knight to vampyre) and DRAGOS. (beast master
    to dragoner)
    Each promotion item has a way to get an isolated one as you play the game, but
    if you are extremely lucky and see one of these at the end of killing off a
    unit very early in the game, you'll have a VERY easy time throughout the rest
    of the game. A Princess as early as Deneb's Garden is simply amazing. Having
    three by Island Avalon is nuts.
    You can sell your equipment if you really don't want it. But why not? It makes
    your units more effective. Whatever you do, use it or lose it. Don't let them
    rot in your inventory. Pressing Select will let you see what the item actually
    does so you can give it to someone who can use those stats. Don't worry about
    matching the type of weapon it is -- knights can use whips and beast masters
    can use swords, no problem.
    If you do start selling, make sure you don't sell Brunhild. If nothing else,
    it's a white magic weapon, so it kills ghosts. The ability to add an elemental
    type to a physical attack is one of the nicer things special weapons can do.
    I tend to keep all this stuff just in case I forget what it's for. If you don't
    care about getting the Tablet of Yaru or some of the other more obscure items
    in the game, then it's not really a big deal. Collecting all 12 zodiac stones
    late in the game is a bit of a nuisance and more or less requires a guide to
    find. However, there are a few others that are quite significant, like HEROSTAR
    (from the second level hidden temple) and Brunhild. (hidden temple in NW
    Kastolatian Sea) On the other hand, quite a few are just to sell for money.
    Feel free to check a full walkthrough guide to find out what your Moonrose is
    * IX. Generic Game Knowledge         *
    This last section is for other things you probably should know about the game.
    Some are obvious items that are just not mentioned elsewhere, but are well-
    known. Others are more subtle information that doesn't figure in anywhere else.
    * Reputation does not affect battles in any way, nor do battles affect
      reputation. Only town liberations and the subsequent tarot cards change
      your reputation.
    * Alignment usually only plays minor roles in battles. Alignment and Charisma
      are the two attributes that can change without a character leveling up,
      based on if you are defeating enemies much above or below your level.
      Charisma is only for recruiting neutral encounters. Alignment is much more
      significant when factoring in class changes and how your reputation changes
      when you liberate a town.
    * You don't need to watch fight animations, which can make the game incredibly
      faster. The only time the animations will be forced to play is during boss
    * When starting a new game, if you type in the name FIRESEAL for your leader,
      you will be sent to a special level with a large group of powerful units.
      This is the perfect chance to see what some characters you may not be used to
      using are like so you can decide if you want them.
    * MERCHANT items let you buy special stat-raising items. They are exceptionally
      expensive, meaning you probably won't want to buy them, however if you wanted
      to kill off all the units on a town-rich level and then let the game run with
      just your lord unit deployed, you could wrack up the tribute to cover the
      costs for buying a bunch of these. Bulking up your units can often make the
      game trivial.
    * If you *REALLY* want to maximize your units, you'd want to look at how many
      points each unit gets per level, and in many cases you would want to
      temporarily level a unit up as a different class altogether for a while.
      (This falls under my category of "too much work," but some players do this.)
    * Related to that, the units that accompany a special character or that you
      recruit are often weaker than they would be for raising it from level 1,
      which brings us to one last key point...
    There's a lot to be said in both camps. Units that you have yourself from an
    early level are cheaper and usually more effective. However, they can also be a
    lot more work to maintain or even to simply get to promote. In particular,
    sylyphs, specific dragons, and units that require special items are sometimes
    hard to achieve without considerable patience, and it is more worth spending
    the money on recruiting, finding them neutrally, or using a CHARM to steal one
    from the enemy. There's also some consideration over how much effort you want
    to put into the perfect army of *exactly* the units you want. I'm a big
    believer in understanding the basics of the game and working with what you've
    got, but there are times where I'll reach for that recruit button for very
    specific needs.
    If you want to do a very in-depth analysis of which classes are better than
    others by looking at the numbers, I recommend checking out Deathlike2's "Unit
    Analysis Guide," located on GameFAQS. That guide also outlines some very
    specific examples of why you would want to recruit (through any means) versus
    using what you've got to start with. The guide is located at
    (*) Actually, the comparison of high sky and low sky speeds to ground movers
    isn't really accurate, but it's a good rule of thumb. Low Sky units will outrun
    units except on their favorite land types....even then, they still outpace
    Plains units on open Plains, (but not roads.)
    (**) The commentary here about how enemy units are moved by the A.I. is not
    100% absolutely and totally accurate. It's simply what happens MOST of the
    time, but don't trust it as Gospel truth or try to nitpick for errors. There
    are some minor exceptions.
    (***) At least, this is how it seems the programming works to me. I could be
    wrong, but it's a decent enough explanation to account for this behavior.
    If you find anything about this guide that you feel you need to contact me over
    -- errors, additions, confusing bits, etc. -- my e-mail address is
           AZUARC at ZAM.COM
    Be sure to include the words Ogre Battle in the subject; I get lots of spam and
    I'd hate to delete your e-mail.

    View in: