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    Bowgun Guide by mazereon

    Version: 0.6 | Updated: 04/25/13 | Search Guide | Bookmark Guide

                                ~ mazereon presents ~
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                            For Monster Hunter 3 Ultimate
    			  (aka Monster Hunter Tri G)
                  		            v 0.5
    	Change History
    	Part 1:	Bowgun Mechanics
    		Bowgun 101
    		Elemental shots
    		Upgrading Bowguns
    		Heavy Bowguns
    			Suggested HBGs
    			Siege Mode
    		Light Bowguns
    			Suggested LBGs
    			Rapid Fire
    		Armour Skills
    		Using Bowguns in Multiplayer
    	Part 2: Armour Sets and Skills
    		Armour skills for Gunners
    		Suggested Low Rank sets
    		Suggested High Rank sets
    		Suggested G Rank sets
    	Part 3: Strategies for Gunning Every Creature
    		Bird Wyverns
    			Great Jaggi/Baggi/Froggi
    			Qurupecco and Crimson Qurupecco
    		Pelagus & Fanged
    			Jinogua & Stygian Jinouga
    		Flying Wyverns
    			Rathalos & Azure Rathalos
    			Silver Rathalos
    			Rathian & Pink Rathian	
    			Gold Rathian
    			Diablos and Black Diablos
    			Gigginox and Baleful Gigginox
    			Barioth & Sand Barioth
    			Naruga and Green Naruga
    			Lucent Naruga
    		Brute Wyverns
    			Barroth and Ice Barroth
    			Uragaan and Steel Uragaan
    			Duramboros & Desert Duram
    			Deviljho & Hungry Jho
    			Royal Ludroth and Purple R Ludroth
    			Agnaktor and Glacial Agnaktor
    			Lagiacrus & Ivory Lagiacrus
    			Abyssal Lagiacrus
    		Elder Dragons
    			Jhen Mohran and Hallowed Jhen
    			Ceadeus and Gold Ceadeus
    			Dire Miralis
    	Part 4: Mark of a Hero
    	Part 5: Credits, Contact & Copyright Info
    				Change History
    		v0.6: 	Updated with some info I'd missed and some fixed 
    			errors. Thanks to the guys on GameFAQs and the MH 
    			Podcast group for helping with this.	
    		v0.5:	Draft Compendium is released
    Welcome all to the Bowgun Compendium Ultimate; May all your days be long upon
    the earth.
    This guide is an attempt to distil all the information about gunning you'll
    need in order to successfully use the Bowgun classes in Monster Hunter
    3 Ultimate. Getting to grips with all the intricacies of Bowguns can be
    quite daunting at first, so the aim of the Compendium is to get you the
    information you need as well as analysis about what that information means
    in terms of gameplay.
    In the interests of getting the guide out, I've run with some assumptions
    which may affect the accuracy of some of the information. These are:
    <> The damage formula is fundamentally similar to all previous games in
    the MH series
    <> Monsters that are returning from Portable 3rd or Tri have similar 
    weaknesses and weak points as they did in those games.
    While these are assumptions, there are good reasons to run with them until
    the information is confirmed - this is mainly because Capcom doesn't tend to
    change much between games in its formulae. Still, be aware this first
    iteration of the Compendium will inevitably change before it's finalised.
    With that caveat in mind, I have actually tested all the strategies detailed
    below in this draft version of the Compendium, so they do actually work.
    Throughout the guide there are YouTube links to videos I've made to
    demonstrate tactics. To view these, copy and paste them into your internet
    browser. In the interests of time, some of these videos are taken from 
    Portable 3rd from where creatures are identical, for all intents and 
    Alternatively, you can jump right to my eponymous channel on YouTube
    at youtube.com/mazereon and locate the videos from there.
     - mazereon
    			Part 1: Bowgun Mechanics
    			Bowgun 101							
    There are a number of different types of damage you can deal in Monster Hunter
    games. The Hammer and Hunting Horn weapons deal Impact damage (and so do some
    other attacks from other classes), bladed weapons do Cutting damage, Barrel 
    Bombs and Cannons do Explosive damage, and Bowguns usually do Shot type 
    This is important to know because where creatures are weak to getting hit by
    melee weapons isn't always where they're weak to Shot type damage.
    To further complicate things, Bowguns can use Elemental shots. When using 
    these shots, your gun doesn't do Shot damage, it instead does damage of that 
    This means that you're going to need to know a fair bit of information to gun 
    well - not just how to shoot, but where to shoot, and with what type of 
    Don't worry about that just yet, but keep it in mind while we talk about 
    Unsheathe is X, and thereís no unsheathe 'attack', though pressing R
    trigger, X and A together unsheathes and loads your gun with your currently 
    selected ammo.
    Reloading is X while unsheathed. Selecting ammo is by holding L trigger,
    then selecting the desired ammo with X and B, and then releasing L. You must
    re-load if you switch out of your chosen ammo and then back to it. A to
    Your scope is R trigger once unsheathed, aimed with the analogue stick. R
    trigger again to unzoom.
    Tapping the bottom right of the touch screen with both classes does a melee 
    bash attack that does little damage, but adds KO value. It's not very useful
    in multi.
    If you hold L trigger while pressing any direction key, you switch to a third
    person view that allows you to aim on the fly. Good for scoping surroundings
    in a pinch, and very handy with faster aiming in Siege mode.
    Pressing X and A together with a Heavy Bowgun enters Siege mode, and
    you can use X and then A to confirm the Siege ammo.
    Pressing B makes you roll or sidestep depending on your current situation.
    Using the analogue stick allows you to direct the sidestep if you've just
    fired or roll direction otherwise.
    When you fire your BG, there are five ranges, from shortest (1) to longest
    (5). How far away you are from a creature impacts on how much damage you'll
    For Pierce and Pellet, ranges 2 and 3 do the most damage, 1 and 4 are next 
    most and 5 (the longest distance away) is the lowest damage. To observe this, 
    try sniping a small minion monster at very long range - it takes around twice 
    as many shots to kill compared to firing point blank. Elemental shots however 
    are range independent - so they do full damage at range 1 and range 5. Note 
    though that they don't fire past about range 5.
    For Normal, ranges 1 and 2 do the most, then 3 and 4, and finally long range
    shots at 5 do very little. Normal 3 is effective up to range 3, though.
    while underwater, effective ranges are halved. That means when underwater,
    fire Normal shots from a single 'roll' back and Pierce from 2-3 back. 
    Crag and Clust shots do fixed damage aside from the initial contact hit,
    and can be fired at any range with virtually the same effect. Clust's damage 
    depends on how many of the bomblets explode on or near the creature - 
    obviously the more, the better.
    You'll soon find the sweet spot to shoot from to maximise your damage, and
    you'll see that the impact flash is larger at the right range.
    			Deviation, Recoil and Reload
    All BGs have a listing on the info page for Shot Deviation, recoil and reload.
    Shot deviation is how far off centre your shots fly. It's not a huge issue,
    and can be corrected for with the Precision skill.
    Recoil and reload affect how much your shots push you back, and how quickly
    you load more shots. These values mix with shot types' natural values, and
    that's how fast you load or how far you recoil.
    For example, Normal 1 shots reload very fast. So even on a gun with Slow
    reload, you'll reload quickly. Or, you might have a gun with Light recoil, but
    firing Dragon shots will still push you back. While these values on a
    gun are important, the shot's natural reload/recoil values are a little more
    The rule of thumb is that you only need Recoil- on your armour if you can't 
    fire your shot of choice without recoil. That means often Pellet 3 or 
    Pierce 3 users need to find a gun with low recoil, or use a set featuring 
    To be a range master, you must understand your weapon. And to understand a
    range weapon, you must understand what youíre firing. Please note numbers
    listed are for the default bag size of shots and with combines, you can take
    more ammo.
    Firstly, you'll notice when selecting ammo that some shots have a special
    border in your shot list while most are white. Red shots indicate ammo that
    is Rapid Fired (LBG) or can be Siege fired (HBG).
    Normal 1 and 2 are simple shots: You fire them, and they hit and damage the
    hitzone they land on. Normal 1 has infinite ammo but does very little damage
    Ė if you end up with only this left on a quest, you should probably abandon
    if the monster youíre hunting isnít almost dead. Normal 2 does good damage
    and is simply targeted and fired. Works well generally and on small, fast
    monsters or where pierce shots donít work well. You can carry one Normal 1
    that fires infinitely and 99 Normal 2.
    Normal 3 is slightly different. It hits, then damages the hitzone it lands on
    and shards fly off. These will either hit adjacent hitzones or fly off. If
    you land ricochets, itíll do a lot of damage. Takes a bit of practice to use
    effectively but youíll learn where to hit to land most ricochets, most often.
    It has a longer effective range than Normal 1 & 2 do. You carry 99, and 
    the shot is slightly more effective than in second generation Monster Hunter.
    Underwater, this shot has a tendancy to ricochet much more often, and since
    it has a longer range, it's highly recommended for your aquatic battles.
    Pierce 1, 2, 3: These all work the same. They hit one hitzone and travel
    through to the next one, then the next until they hit the appropriate number
    of times or exit the creature. Pierce 1 hits 4 times, Pierce 2 hits 5, and
    Pierce 3 hits up to 6 times. While lower level shots will do more per 'hit', 
    if you connect all the hits from higher level shots, they'll do more damage.
    Also, high levels of Pierce are more effectively fired from longer back. A
    point blank Pierce 3 won't do as much damage as if you were four rolls back.
    You carry 60 of each level.
    Pellet 1, 2, 3: These shots are different from the above in that they require
    little precision. You fire, and the shot splits up and hits hitzones in your
    cone of vision. It's not totally random, and certain monster parts will
    attract pellets more than others. Works excellently for dromes: fire, and a
    half second later shards will hit a few points. You can pack 60 of level 1,
    70 if 2 and 80 of 3.
    Sub 1 and 2: An underwater specific version of Pellet S. I haven't done a lot
    of hunts with this shot, but if you're underwater and having a tough time
    aiming other shots, give it a whirl. More info to come.
    Crag: A simple shot: You fire, it hits and a split second later explodes.
    Does good damage and acts like a sonic bomb. Enough damage (more accurately,
    KO value) from this will KO a monster like a hammer if you hit the head.
    Itís not much use in solo play, but itís very good for online battles.
    Again, has recoil to watch out for. 
    Max 9 shots per level.
    Clust: You fire a shell, and when it hits it does minor damage while sticking
    in the target. But then it fragments into several bomblets which explode.
    If all hit, it does severe damage, but will take practice to land. This works
    very well on bigger, slower creatures, but again on a faster monster itís
    not great because the bomblets wonít stay on it if it moves. Another shot
    with recoil. Max 3 shots per level.
    Exhaust: Creatures have an invisible stamina gauge in this game. As they
    attack, that gauge depletes until they are forced to break off and recover
    stamina and will stand on the spot taunting. Exhaust S helps to lower their
    stamina faster, and will do KO damage like Crag S if you get a head shot. You
    can take 12 of these at level 1 and 8 at level 2.
    Slicing: Normal Bowgun shots do Shot type damage (apart from elemental and
    explosive shots). This shot type does Cutting damage, meaning that gunners
    can now cut tails off with enough cutting damage dealt. Note that a certain
    amount of cutting damage is needed, so you can't shoot it with any other shot
    type and expect a tail to fall off with 1 Slicing S. 
    They do minimal damage though, so it's usually best to plan to help melee 
    users cut the tail rather than expect to do it easily yourself.
    Status shots (Poison S, Sleep S, Paralyze S): These shots all lower a
    monsters' tolerance to that status. When the status tolerance reaches 0, they
    will be poisoned, sent to sleep or paralyzed. Each time they are inflicted,
    their tolerance rises for the next time.
    You carry 12 level 1 and 8 Level 2.
    Slime S: Slime is a new element in 3U. As you coat a creature in slime, it'll
    build up until you reach enough and then it explodes for similar damage to
    a Large Barrel Bomb. This shot type is not as good as the melee equivalent,
    and best used when you can apply it quickly (like RF'd or sieged shots).
    Wyvernfire S: Still testing this one. Basically, think a version of Gunlance's
    shot of the same name.
    Recover S: This shot does what it sounds like: heals any target in its wide
    radius. And yes, 'any' target means you will heal monsters you hit with it
    too. In practice, it's better to sheathe and use a Lifepowder as it's faster
    than changing ammo and aiming at your team mate, and it heals everyone in
    the zone and not the monster.
    Tranq S, Armour S, Demon S: These shots are utility shots. Demon shots raise
    team mates' attack, Armour S obviously does the same for defence, and Tranq
    S will have the same effect as Tranq bombs (although you must hit the head).
    In all honesty, these are all but useless shots in practice. I know that a 
    lot of the Tri players swear by Demon/Armour shots, and the point of using 
    them is to help kill a creature faster. But if you focus on more of a damage 
    role instead of a supporting one, you'll probably find you kill creatures 
    faster anyway.
    			Elemental Shots						
    Elemental shots (except Dragon) are 'normal' style shots.
    That means, they hit an do all their damage to a single hitzone. As in 
    previous games, these shots do elemental damage that scales with your 
    Bowgun's raw, including Dragon S.
    Dragon S is still a pierce style shot, so it passes through multiple hitzones 
    unlike the other elemental shots. It's very powerful and has a huge recoil,
    but given its very limited ammo capacity (even with combines) it's best not
    to base a hunt around this shot type.
    While above it says elemental shots are only elemental damage, that's not 
    strictly true. Elemental Shots are mostly elemental damage, but do have a 
    small Shot damage portion. Only the shot damage is affected by Affinity, so 
    if you have a gun with strong negative affinity it will still function well 
    with Elemental shots. The raw portion of an elemental shell is miniscule 
    though, this note is only here for completeness sake.
    			Upgrading Bowguns
    So congratulations, youíve decided to get into the mysterious and new world
    of bowgunning. Off you run to the creation store and plonk down your Rathalos
    Plate for that shiny new cannon. Now youíve made it, what are those options
    you get?
    You may only attach one of the two possible options, which are different for
    heavy and light bowguns.
    Power barrel: Gives a good boost to damage. When you have defensive skills on
    your armour, this is probably the attachment of choice. Roughly 10% extra
                      	OR, a
    [HBG Only] Shield: An attachment to have if you have offensive armour skills
    and need some protection. While you arenít attacking, youíll auto block
    attacks, including screams. The residual damage you take is higher than other
    classes, but it's better than getting run over by a Diablos. Your shield will
    work when you're in Siege mode.
    [LBG Only] Silencer: This device noticeably lowers recoil. If you're using a
    Pellet, Pierce, Crag or Clust set primarily, this is a very handy
    attachment to have. For recoil-less shots, it's not worth using.
    		And with both of those, you can equip a:
    Zoom Scope: When in zoom mode, you can zoom your gun in further. Not really
    that useful in most situations, since without the Target range down skill,
    your shots wonít reach as far as you can see. But hey, why not?
    Once you hit G rank, Rare 6 and above BGs have the option of removing their
    'Limiter'. On HBG, this option increases your damage and clip size at the 
    cost of removing Siege mode, and on LBG it removes Rapid Fire from your 
    weapon in exchange for being able to load all your shot types at once and
    allowing you to switch between them without having to re-load when 
    re-selecting as you normally would. 
    For LBGs, this requires some careful consideration, as 
    Rapid Fire is often a serious source of damage. If you're using a LBG for 
    its damage and/or clip size on a non-RF shot, it's a no brainer.
    For HBGs, a Limiter should be considered mandatory in almost all cases. 
    Siege mode was introduced in Portable 3rd to address the removal of Auto 
    Reload in MHP2G/Freedom Unite, to try and re-balance them. A larger - but
    not infinite - clip in exchange for being stuck in place might sound like an
    acceptable trade off, but given how range and mobility dependant this class
    is, in practice Siege mode is not very useful solo except in few 
    circumstances. It's more useful in multiplayer, but again only where a 
    creature is immobilised - so, not much of the fight. 
    A limiter will slow your movement speed slightly on HBG too, as well as 
    restricting your rolling capabilities.
    It's for this reason that except where noted, I always recommend you put a 
    Limiter on your HBG.
    		Heavy Bowgun Specific Information	
    With the removal of Speed Fire/Auto Reload from 2nd gen and the addition of
    Siege mode, much has changed. While quick kill times are still to be had
    with this class, a little more strategy is required. But on the plus side,
    you can Siege with every HBG, allowing a pseudo Speed Fire much more easily
    accessible than previously.
    As above, Siege mode is entered with X and A, and ammo selected with X
    and then A to confirm. It's worth noting that Siege capable shots don't have
    to be Siege fired, they can be used normally. This is a welcome departure 
    from LBG's enforced Rapid Fire.
    HBGs do have their downsides. As youíve no doubt noticed, when unsheathed, it
    has limited mobility (comparable to a Gunlance). Limited ammo (ignoring the
    Normal 1 shot which does negligible damage) means if you arenít accurate,
    you'll end up having to use subpar ammo or even worse, completely unable to
    finish a quest. And youíll need to be stationary while firing, leaving you
    But the fact is, with practice and skill, these issues can be practically
    The strengths of HBG are many, as itís a class that can be played a number
    of ways. Itís got great elemental damage and great raw damage. Ammo limits
    arenít really a problem when you learn weak points and bring combines, and
    you can equip a shield and use the Guard Inc skill to constantly tank all
    hits Ė and even without it, the shield auto-blocks if you arenít firing. Or
    you can go all out offence and use a power barrel for even more damage.
    HBGs also use a different damage formula from LBG - it gets a boost of around
    12% as a hidden multiplier in the formula. That means if you have a HBG with 
    200 raw and a LBG also with 200 raw, the HBG gets a (200 * 1.12) 24 damage 
    		Suggested HBGs					
    The rule of thumb when choosing a gun is to look for what shots you plan to
    be using most. In addition, large clips (so above 6) of Normal 2/3 are always
    useful, and lower recoil/reload speeds makes the higher impact shots more
    Pellet: Crimson Pecco's weapons are excellent here. Good clips, good recoil
    and slots as well as good interaction with a Limiter makes these Pellet guns
    of choice.
    Normal: Rathian's line is excellent and easily made, though when available,
    Jhen's (and to a lesser extent Ceadeus's) are better choices. The Nibel and 
    Ivory Lagi guns also work very well here, especially if you do find many 
    opportunities for siege fire. 
    Pierce: The Naruga weapons are the real stars here. Don't be put off by the
    lower raw - the affinity and reload/recoil means your damage per second is
    going to be high.
    General use: Alatreon's weapon is a great all-round elemental machine, and 
    Jhen's cannons fire a lot of useful ammos.
    		Light Bowgun Specific Information		
    In second generation MH, given armour skills like Evade Inc and Speed Fire 
    that nullified HBG's downsides, LBGs were a reasonably poor cousin to their 
    bigger brethren. In most cases, as their damage output often couldn't compete 
    and their upsides weren't overly useful, there wasn't often much reason to 
    use the LBGs, especially solo.
    But now that HBGs have lower raw overall and no Speed Fire to assuage their
    low clip sizes and reload values, LBGs are really stealing the spotlight.
    Rapid Fire (below) is a hugely valuable tool, given that creatures seem a
    little more elementally resistant and ammo is often a concern. And now that
    monster's hitboxes are much tighter, LBG's mobility really lets you stay 
    close and deliver more damage.
    		Rapid Fire					
    Rapid Fire (RF) is a mechanism unique to LBGs. Most LBGs have a shot (or
    shots) that they RF, which is listed in the last page of the gun description.
    A shot that is rapid fired will launch multiple shells for every one attack
    initiated, while still using a single bullet. For example, a gun that Rapid
    fires Thunder S will fire three Thunder rounds, one after the other, while
    still just using one of your Thunder S shots in your inventory.
    While each individual shot in that volley does less damage than normal, if
    the whole volley connects it'll do more damage than that single non RF'd shot.
    However, it takes a little longer to do it in. Proper use of RF can massively
    reduce quest clearing times.
    Most elemental RFs use three rounds per shot, at 70% of the original power.
    If all 3 hit, that's 70% x 3 = 210% of the initial power, while still
    consuming less ammo. While it's often faster to fire two non RF'd shots in 
    the same time (so, 2 x 100% = 200%) you'll end up needing to reload more 
    often without RF. This is quite different to 2G/FU where LBG users could use 
    Speed Fire - making RF in 3U a more attractive option.
    RF works extremely well on status shots, since they have a fixed value and
    long range. Since status tolerance rises over time, the faster you inflict it,
    the more effective it is. RF can deliver status very quickly, making it easier
    to inflict.
    		Suggested LBGs						
    As with picking a HBG, it's crucial to think about the shots you're going to
    be using most in a given quest. Looking for a gun that rapid fire that shot
    is usually your best option, even if that gun's raw is a little lower than
    another choice. And again, a good Normal 2/3 clip never hurts.
    For each element, look for the gun with the highest raw that Rapid Fires the
    element you're after. Normally, that's Rathalos (Fire), Lagi/Jin (Thunder),
    Barioth (Ice) and Water (Plesioth).
    Pellet: Use the Dobo line. Good clip sizes and Weak recoil plus good raw. 
    The Rathian and Pink Ian lines work too, though need a Silencer or Recoil-.
    Normal: The Barroth and Jade Barroth guns are solid and double as Pellet 
    weapons, and the Giggi guns do Normal well and Poison very well, which is 
    useful on almost all creatures. The Zinogre and Lagia weapons are excellent 
    Normal guns once you can make them.
    Pierce: The Barioth weapons have a good clip size/damage/affinity matrix and
    with a Silencer have good recoil. The Naruga weapons are also good, but 
    ideally you'd want Load Up with them.
    General use: For use on Brute wyverns the Giggi guns' Poison RF is useful.
    The Ancient/Rusted weapons are very good for the explosive shots in the 
    cases where they work well.
    		Armour Skills					
    Just like how blademasters tend to have favourite skills for their weapons
    (Sharpness +1, anyone?), there are several skills that greatly increase BGís
    Evade +2: This is a staple skill that you should learn to use. You can use
    the split second of invulnerability to roll through roars and most attacks,
    allowing you to remain in the thick of battle and play very aggressively.
    Now that hitboxes are fixed, it's a luxury rather than a requisite.
    Evade Inc: This is a good skill to boost mobility. Itís simple: you roll
    further. Allows for aggressive play, and it's more important on HBG.
    Pierce/Pellet/Normal S Up: These all boost the damage of their associated
    shot. They have enough of a bonus to make them worthwhile, but are best
    suited to use on specific monsters. For example, an armour with Pierce Up
    is great for long monsters but not much use versus Azuros.
    Pierce and Normal Up are +10% and Pellet Up is +20%.
    Reloading Speed+ : Much like it suggests, increases your reloading speed.
    Useful if you're going for a Pierce/Pellet set, but not hugely useful
    Critical Eye +1/2/3: A simple damage skill. CE +1 increases your DoT by
    2.5%, +2 by 5% and +3 by 7.5%. It works by increasing your chance of a
    critical hit (+25% damage) by 10% per level. If you have negative affinity
    it makes you less likely to do a negative critical hit (-25%).
    Since BGs have low-ish raw, you'll almost always get a better bonus from a
    given shot type boost (like Normal Up) instead of Critical Eye +3.
    Attack Up: This adds a fixed damage boost to every shot. At +10 points it
    adds 10 damage, +15 points (Attack Up Medium) adds 15 damage and +20 points
    (Attack Up Large) adds (wait for it...) 20 raw. While this is a mediocre
    boost, at low rank it can often be better than skills that add a % of
    weapon raw.
    Elemental Attack Up: Increases the damage of your elemental shots. This can
    be a great skill for fighting element weak monsters, but for creatures that
    have low elemental weaknesses itís not helpful. Boosts elemental damage by
    20%. It's also only found naturally on Alatreon armour.
    (Elemental) Attack +1/2: These skills (one for each element) boost damage
    by +10% at +1 and 20% at +2. In effect, they replace EAU on most sets. While
    it's annoying having to re-gem sets for different elements, at least now
    you can store sets and gems in your house.
    Load Up: Means your ammo limits per clip are increased by one shot per clip.
    You get this skill from many armours as an equivalent to Sharp +1 (so on
    sets like Helios, Jho). It's useful always, but it'll never really take
    a gun from mediocre to good. Handy on many RF guns.
    Adrenaline +2: When you get very experienced, this is a great skill. When at
    less than 40% health, your damage increases by 30%, the single biggest boost
    of any skill except Felyne Heroics. Since Heroics no longer stacks with
    Adrenaline +2, I would suggest this one instead since Heroics only activates
    when youíre under 10 health, making it very dangerous. Being under 40% health
    isnít fun but at least if a Rhenoplos gets niggly, it wonít one-shot you.
    Being an experienced range player means you need never get hit, so being on
    reduced life isnít an issue.
    Stinger/Exploiter: This skill gives you a 5% damage boost when hitting
    monster's weakest points. Only applies to raw damage though, but on a Normal
    focussed set it's a decent boost to damage over time if you're accurate.
    Bonus Shot: This skill means when you RF a shot, it'll add another bullet
    to the end of the current volley. I'm still testing whether it adds it at the
    same damage % as the others or a reduced one, but it does hold you in place
    longer which is dangerous. On slow foes though it can be exceptional.
    Recoil reduce: the Pierce and explosive shots can have a big recoil, and
    different guns have different recoil rates. You should always be careful
    about when you shoot, but this skill can help you get more hits in.
    Earplugs: Not as essential as for blademasters, but a great skill to have.
    You shouldn't always be within scream range or be able to evade through it if
    you are, but everyone makes mistakes. The difference is that for gunners in
    G rank they can be fatal :)
    Combination Pro: This cheap (5 slot) skill is much more useful than you think.
    Most creatures have a weakness to a specific shot level or type, and this
    skill lets you maximise that weakness. For a lot of elemental shots, it's a
    great skill.
    Precision: Now that guns have a built in deviation, this skill can correct it.
    Cheap to gem in and often worth it at low rank.
    			Suggested Armour Sets
    With the above information in mind, here are some armour sets for different
    situations. To be updated with more soon - but given how the skills on 
    armours are much more diffuse in 3U, it's probably the case that mix sets
    are almost always superior. If you download a program called the Armour Set 
    Searcher (It's currently hosted on forums.Minegarde.com) by the excellent
    Athena, you can put in the skills you want and charms you have and it'll tell
    you how to make the set you want.
    				HR1 - 3: LOW RANK
    Ingot: A simple to make set that's packing useful skills.
    				HR4 - 6: HIGH RANK
    Volvidon: Evade+ and Attack up are two great skills for any type of gunning,
    and this set isn't overly hard to make.
    Narga: Evasion heavy set that's more useful for HBG.
    Ingot S: A great performer for Pellet and easily made.
    Azure Los: Earplug, RA+, and can fit in Normal Up and Evade Inc - a great 
    set for all round play, and especially good with the Jhen HBG.
    Alatreon - a very good elemental set, especially with the versatile Alatreon
    				HR6 - 999: G RANK
    Rust Duram: The skills here are great for any type of gunning, and the slots
    (two OOOs and three singles) let you put in (Shot type Up) very easily 
    without a charm adding to it. A great versatile set at the start of G rank, 
    and it looks really sweet, too.
    Ingot X: Pellet/Recoil- makes an excellent combo, especially with the Rust
    Dobo gun.
    Goldbeard Ceadeus: While this set isn't as prolific for gunners, the Load Up
    and Earplug combo is quite useful. It's also got slots enough to expand as 
    well as having good def.
    			General Gunning Tactics			
    For each monster, youíll need careful preparation and thought before heading
    off into a quest. Rocking up with whatever gun and armour can be the
    difference between a five minute quest and multiple failures. Once youíve
    decided what monster to hunt, there are a few simple steps to make sure your
    quests are fast and fun. Basically, for anything you fight, you want to have
    enough ammo of the right type to finish the fight without having to resort
    to using ineffective shots. Sometimes, this means having a primary and a
    secondary ammo type.
    Firstly, is what youíre fighting elementally weak or not? Every creature has
    a weakness to an element, but if the creature in question is slightly weak to
    an element, then finding a gun that fires that element should be a secondary
    priority. But if youíre fighting something like a Naruga, Barioth or
    Ludroth, then bring your Fire S by all means. If it has two big weaknesses,
    then an elemental gun should be your first priority.
    Secondly, are you fighting a long monster, fast monster or one with a big weak
    spot? For long monsters, look for guns that fire Pierce 3 and/or 2. For fast
    ones, Scatter 3 and Normal 2, and for ones with an obvious weak point
    (like Rathalosís head) then take Normal 2 and 3.
    			Using Bowguns in Multiplayer
    Many of you reading this will be playing Ultimate as a sequel to Monster 
    Hunter Tri, and while I never played Tri, I have heard a lot of anecdotal 
    stories about gunnersí behaviour online and it has confirmed what Iíve seen 
    from playing Freedom Unite and Portable 3rd online. 
    If youíre approaching gunning as a way to look like youíre doing something 
    useful while waiting for the other players to kill the monster because 
    youíre not confident fighting it, then what you ought to do is jump offline 
    learn how to fight the creature solo first. 
    Gunning should not be seen as a way to be legitimately outside of harmís 
    way. If youíre ďsnipingĒ from most of the zone away, youíre either doing 
    next to no damage and using up a spot on the team or youíre using range-
    independent shots like Clust, and youíre going to be exploding the 
    blademasters away and drawing the monster away from them.
    Trust me on this, youíre not doing yourself any favours and youíre going to 
    be unlikely to earning friends online. It's my firm opinion the game is 
    much more fun when youíve got a good handle on the mechanics.
    To gun effectively online, there are two broad approaches: Support and 
    Regardless of which path you focus on, there are a few notes that will make 
    you a better gunner:
    <> Donít use Pellet online. Any damage you do will be outweighed by the fact 
    up to three other players are suddenly unable to do any damage because your 
    shots are flinching them.
    <> Your shots canít hurt other players, but they can hit them. When players 
    are between you and a monster, take a half-second to aim up at a creature.
    <> Shots like Heal S, Demon S, Armour S, Paint S Ė donít use them. Heal S 
    will heal monsters as well as players, and itís faster to put your gun away 
    and use a Lifepowder, which heals everyone in the zone (and you) without 
    risking healing a monster. Ditto Demon/Armour S Ė if youíre dead set on 
    giving other players the pretty minor boost those shots offer, take a Wide 
    Area set instead and eat power/armour seeds. Itíll save time as well as 
    buffing you.
    <> Stay close to the monster. Even if youíre using range independant shots 
    or are focussed on Support rather than Damage, the monster will eventually 
    target you. If youíre across the zone, youíll drag the creature away from 
    your team mates which is a direct drop in damage over time. Itís also easier 
    to make all your shots count if youíre close. This obviously crucial if 
    youíre playing a Damage role and youíre underwater, since youíll be up close 
    and personal.
    Support is probably what many players think of as the classical role of a 
    gunner in an online match, if they havenít seen the potential of a good HBG 
    user. There is nothing wrong with focussing on playing a supporting role, 
    and against some creatures and with certain teams itís actually a better 
    option. If youíre playing with friends who arenít very developed in their 
    hunting or with a team of randoms and youíre the most experienced on the 
    team, itís a good idea to play Support at first.
    The focus of this role is to provide support (duh) to your team mates in 
    killing the boss. Youíre going to be doing this in a number of ways:
    <> Using Paralyze shots to hold the creature in place for your other team 
    <> Using Poison shots to help with damage on heavily armoured targets
    <> Using Sleep shots and Barrel Bombs to assist in huge damage bursts
    <> Using Crag S and Exhaust S to help stack KO damage on a monsterís head
    <> And of course, actually shooting the creature for damage
    So obviously using status inflicting shots is a priority. Remember that 
    each status infliction takes most shots than the last, so once youíve caused 
    three inflictions of a status, itís time to switch to another, or to move to 
    straight damage shots. 
    Finding the right weapon is important Ė anything with Rapid Fire of a status 
    shot will be very powerful, and if youíre in a team with some heavy hitters 
    (hammer/GS users mainly) then itís worth sacrificing some damage if it means 
    you can better help those team mates pump out damage.
    If you are going to attempt to sleep something so you can sleep bomb it or 
    have a team mate do a big attack to wake it up (the first attack on a 
    sleeping creature does 3x damage) then co-ordination is key. Donít use the 
    last few shots you think will send it to sleep while itís already KOíd or 
    paralyzed, wait until itís physically a bit away from the melee players so 
    they donít accidently wake it up immediately.
    If you are using Exhaust S or Crag S, donít forget you need to get head shots 
    to build up KO value. If youíre the only person doing consistent KO damage 
    (so there arenít any HH/Hammer users or other players with Crag S) then 
    after the second KO switch to another shot type as the third KO will take a 
    while and youíre more valuable at that point going for another status or 
    For armour skills, Abnormal Up is important as itís 12.5% more status. Thatís
    not often the difference between 3 and 4 inflictions, but it does give you a 
    little more wiggle room in terms of how much ammo you need or getting a 
    status off in time (status value counts down over time, so if youíre going to 
    apply it, make sure you do so quickly). Having the lowest recoil helps too, 
    but a silencer is a better choice than Recoil + skills usually. Load Up is 
    usually great on these sets.
    Once youíve identified the statuses youíre going to use on a given hunt (itís 
    best to pick two so youíre not juggling too much) take those shots (level 1 
    and 2) and combines, and always take stacks of Normal 2 and 3, and youíre 
    good to go.
    HBG was once a King among weapons. Back in the late days of second generation
    Monster Hunter, HBGs became notorious for how fast they could potentially 
    down elementally weak targets. Since those glory days things have been 
    restrained somewhat, but BGs do retain a unique property in that they donít 
    have to suffer any drop in damage output in multi. A melee user will end up 
    having to deal with a monster that doesnít present its weakpoint as often and 
    multiple hammer users canít all hit a creatureís head. But a gunnerís damage 
    output is usually undiminished online when played well.
    A Damage gunner setup works off the idea that instead of spending a minute or 
    so firing non-damaging status shots at a creature for ten seconds of free 
    hits, itís better to spend that minute just damaging it instead. And if you 
    have a team that doesnít need the support, a constant stream of maximised 
    damage is going to put a severe dent in any creature and shorten your kill 
    times dramatically.
    Essentially, you play very much as if you were playing solo, though making 
    some adjustments:
    <> Donít use Pellet S. Seriously.
    <> Ensure you aim horizontally or vertically away from other players, if 
       they are between you and the target
    <> Get point blank 
    That last note Ė about getting really close Ė is going to have to be 
    tempered with your shot choices. Many players from Tri swear by Pierce S, 
    which requires that youíre back 2-4 rolls from a creature to maximise damage. 
    But if youíre using Pierce 3 and hanging out 5 rolls back, youíll often be 
    dragging a creature away from your team mates, which isnít conducive to speed 
    runs. Consider using Normal 2/3 instead or switching to an Elemental shot set.
    Youíre also going to want two targets. Creatures always have a primary shot 
    damage weak point (often the head) which youíll find isnít always an option. 
    Always know where else you can shoot Ė and with what ammo Ė to ensure youíre 
    pumping out the damage. If you find that a creatureís back is always to you 
    and raw Shot damage isnít great, consider going for the front or back legs 
    for a trip instead, and then Siege when itís tripped (for example).
    As for using Adrenaline, it's up to you. But if you have to ask if it's a 
    good idea, it's probably a good indication it's a bit too risky just yet. 
                  Part 2: Strategies for Gunning Every Creature
    Firstly, please note furthermore that there is no Ďrightí way to gun any
    creature. There is only successful or not. These tips represent my 
    experience, and are the way I find fastest to gun every creature. Other 
    strategies are just as valid, though perhaps not as fast. Each brief strategy
    has a few parts.
    Recommended Ammunition: The shot types to use, in order, to kill everything.
    Using the recommended ammo, you should always be able to kill your target if
    you use weapons/armour appropriate to the level youíre attempting (ie, high
    rank gear on high rank creatures). Always take combines for the shots youíre
    using, especially for your element shots.
    Armour Skills: These come in two flavours, Recommended and Required. No
    armour skill is ever truly required, but these will make the fight either
    much faster or much easier. Recommended skills are good to have, but can be
    done without. Itís important to note that additional damage skills like
    Reckless Abandon+ or Attack Up are always beneficial.
    Difficulty to gun: Every quest can be soloed at every rank with every weapon.
    Still, there are some creatures that are not easy to gun. If a creature is
    listed as High difficulty to gun, seriously consider using a melee weapon.
    Like how most people hate to use non-guarding melee weapons on Plesioth,
    sometimes itís just not worth the aggravation if you can avoid it. Where a
    creature really is made simpler by additional mobility, I've noted that and
    suggested Light bowguns. It'll usually mean a slightly longer quest, but
    will often reduce frustration.
    From here, itís a bit of an epic wall of text, so Ctrl+F is your friend.
    Just hit those two buttons, and enter the name of the monster youíre after
    and youíll be taken straight to the part you want. Where multiple monsters
    have the same strategies, they are listed together.
    			Bird Wyverns       				
    Great Jaggi, Great Baggi, Great Wroggi
    Recommended Ammunition: Normal 2 or Pellet 3 (Fire S for Baggi)
    Required Skills: None
    Recommended Skills: Normal/Pellet Up
    Difficulty to gun: Easy
    The 'drome' wyverns are a great place to start gunning if you haven't done a
    lot of it before. These creatures may be harder than previous games, but they
    are still very much a push over with any class.
    Your main tactic will be to stay at medium range and blast them with Normal
    shots. They seem to have only two hitzones - head and body. Shoot them in the
    head whenever you can, as it'll let you break their crest/frill as well as
    doing more damage.
    Be wary of their minions, though - they can easily interrupt attacks and set
    you up for a hipcheck, which does a surprising amount of damage compared to
    their regular attacks. As long as you keep the minions at bay with a few 
    shots every now and then, you should have no problem parrying the attacks 
    and firing in return. It's a great time to get familiar with range, as well,
    since Normal shots aren't effective from long range.
    You can also spam Pellet shots at the dromes, but Pellet has really been 
    beaten with the nerf stick in this game. You won't need to aim, but it'll 
    take longer. It will however hose down the minions nicely.
    Qurupecco and Crimson Qurupecco
    Recommended Ammunition: Normal 3/2 and Ice S
    Required Skills: None
    Recommended Skills: Ice Element +, Normal Up, Earplug (for Crimson).
    Difficulty to gun: Easy (Moderate for Crimson)
    Qurupecco is much like Kut Ku, from previous games - a slightly more advanced
    walking target from the dromes. While it looks like a big turkey, you'll need
    to be aware of what it can do in a pinch.
    Your main target will be its head, and you can crack its beak as well as
    breaking the flints off its wings. If you keep the pressure on with Normal or
    Ice shots, you'll down it reasonably fast.
    The main thing you'll need to watch out for is its summon dance. If it starts
    waggling around and you see sound waves coming from the beak, it's trying to
    call another monster to help it. At low rank it'll usually call a monster like
    an Azuros or Ludroth, which are annoying. But the High rank ones can summon
    creatures up to the fearsome Deviljho, who you're not going to be equipped to
    fight. It's important that you bring dung bombs if you can; throwing faeces at
    a creature will drive them from the map.
    When it clicks its wings together twice, it's going to jump at you and use the
    flint on its wing tips to create and explosion. It's simple enough to dodge by
    rolling left or right, but you really do want to avoid getting hit as it'll
    do a lot of damage and leave you on fire (which will drain your health, but
    rolling three times will put it out).
    Crimson Quru can use its flints to do a flash attack that'll leave you dizzy,
    and it'll inflict Thunderblight instead of Fireblight. This will leave you
    more easily KO'd while it's active, which can be deadly at high rank.
    Most of the time it'll do a hopping charge at you, or spit acid that inflicts
    defence down. These attacks are simple to avoid, and then you can retaliate
    with a couple of Normal 2 or a Ice S RF volley.
    Crimson Qurupecco is a much more worthy adversary than its green cousin. When
    you've done enough damage to rage it, it'll actually shriek at you which
    requires earplugs to block. It's also more prone to summoning Deviljhos, and
    it's got a fair bit more health. Otherwise, it's pretty much the same fight,
    but it does seem to love hovering.
    			Pelagus and Fanged Wyverns    			
    Recommended Ammunition: Normal 2/3
    Required Skills: None
    Recommended Skills: Normal Up
    Difficulty to gun: Low
    Azuros is designed to ease new players into the cut and thrust of more 
    advanced hunting (well, more advanced than Bulldrome and the Bird Wyverns, 
    at any rate).
    Its weakest shot point is the head, and it's usually up on its hind legs,
    meaning you'll need to pan your targeting reticule up to hit him there. Once
    Azuros becomes fatigued though, it'll spend more time with its head at
    ground level, giving you much easier access.
    When it's on its hind legs and pulls one arm back, it'll start doing a drunken
    slash attack with its paws. While it's not too deadly, it can attack with a
    full 360* range of motion, so be careful about how close you stand. Other
    than rolling away from that and not firing at it while it's charging you down,
    most of its attacks are quite linear and well telegraphed. It doesn't have
    that much health, so don't feel compelled to risk attacks.
    It's a good chance to try out different gunning tactics to get a feel for 
    them, so if you want a punching bag for your Clust, Crag, Pellet or Pierce 
    shots then you can use Yogi.
    Recommended Ammunition: Fire S
    Required Skills: None
    Recommended Skills: Fire Element +2
    Difficulty to gun: Low
    While Lagombi is faster than Azuros and can use projectile attacks, it's
    also ultimately a very linear creature. It's also got a reasonably crippling
    Fire weakness on the head, meaning you can break the ears off and have it
    staggering frequently even with level appropriate gear.
    Most of the fight will be spent almost like being a matador - let it slide 
    past you, and then aim at the head with Fire shots. Other than being careful
    of its multiple sliding attack, you'll only have to look out for the boulder 
    toss and the circular slider attack. This latter one is important to learn to
    recognise and dodge, as it's got a wide range and will take a chunk out of
    your HP.
    If you don't have a Fire capable gun then Normal shots are almost as 
    effective. If you find yourself firing at medium-long range often, use 
    Normal 3 instead as it's got a longer effective range.
    Try not to stand right behind it, as it can back up and sit on you reasonably
    This fight should be reasonably fast. It's tempting to spam fire shots at its
    back, but if you wait a second till it turns around for a head shot, you'll
    make more effective use of your ammo.
    Recommended Ammunition: Water S, Normal 2/3
    Required Skills: None
    Recommended Skills: Paralyze
    Difficulty to gun: Moderate
    Volvidon is like a big armadillo pinball, and it's got a few tricks that can
    prove annoying for gunners in the first few attempts.
    Its main attacks are a deceptively long range tongue whip (which will reach
    to the limits of effective Normal 2 range), the bouncing attacks, short range
    dung gas halos, and a medium range paralyze spit.
    The best way to counteract the tongue whip is to roll into it. That may sound
    counter-intuitive, but right after you hit 'X' to roll, your character will 
    be invulnerable to any attack in the game for about 2/30ths of a second. It's
    called your 'moment of invulnerability' (MOI) and it's important for gunners
    to get to grips with. You can extend this time with Evade +1/2, but most
    attacks in the game can be avoided without it. So, when you see Rango drop
    to its front paws and cock its head to the side, get ready to roll left or
    right. You'll probably get hit the first few times, but you'll eventually
    get the hang of rolling.
    The paralysis spit has a wider area of effect than you'd expect, so it's
    important to avoid it. Volvi seems to always follow up an effective Para with
    a bounce attack, which you'll be helpless to avoid.
    While the multiple bounces do inflict quakes on the ground, rolling away from
    them is usually sufficient.
    By this point in the game you'll be able to make the Ludroth LBG, which RF's
    Water S, which Volvi really doesn't like. Firing off a single volley and then
    pausing to see its response is a very effective way to safely pump out lots
    of damage. As always though, using raw damage (Normal shots) will also get
    the job done.
    Zinogre & Stygian Zinogre
    Recommended Ammunition: Pellet
    Required Skills: None
    Recommended Skills: Pellet Up, Evade Inc (if HBG) and Recoil- if required.
    Difficulty to gun: Moderate
    Zinogre was the P3rd's flagship monster, and it's also going to end up as a
    wall for many new players who so far will have been breezing through the game.
    Fear not though, because Zinogre's movements are slow when it's not powered up
    and easily enough avoided in rage mode, when you know what to look out for.
    I've listed this as a 'Moderate' fight because while not taking damage is easy
    enough, Zinogre doesn't take large levels of shot or elemental damage, so 
    you'll be fighting for long enough to make a few mistakes if you're not careful.
    Zin's horn is a magnet for Pellet shots, which will deal a whole lot of damage
    to it fast. It also means you don't need to fine aim, but you do need to be
    aware of your ranges (too close and you won't get as many pellets in). 
    Zinogre's normal state is reasonably slow, and it'll often let you fire at it
    while it stalks you. Fire at the head when you can, and back otherwise. As 
    soon as you see it start powering up, concentrate fire on the horns. If you
    let it power up successfully twice, it'll go into a second state where its
    attacks are faster, more damaging and most dangerously, inflict 
    'Thunderblight', meaning that you're much more likely to become KO'd (dizzy).
    Its major normal mode attack to be aware of is the paw slam. If it jumps
    towards you and tries to hit you with its paw, it'll pause for a second and 
    then attack again. Don't start attacking until it's done both attacks,
    tempting as it may be to. If it turns its side to you, it'll do a shoulder 
    check. Avoid it by rolling backwards away from it, or if you're close, 
    roll/hop sideways, making sure you're rolling sideways parallel to its head.
    When it enters the second powered up state, it can go into rage mode (it'll
    roar and you'll get caught if you don't have earplugs).
    Once it's in its second state, it'll do two new attacks. One is a long 
    range body slam that leaves it on its back and will do a lot of damage, and
    the other is a vertical jump/break dance move where it'll try and attack you
    with a tail slam. Also, its two jump paw slam attack becomes a three paw 
    slam attack.
    Don't try and use shock traps or flash bombs when it's in its powered state,
    since it'll absorb them. It's important to target hitzones consistently, 
    since it requires a flinch or a certain amount of damage to force it out of 
    being powered up. Keep the pressure on, but be careful to pick your moments 
    since you'll take longer to clear the quest if you have to break off often 
    to heal.
    Here's my take on gunning the Dual Zinogre quest from P3rd with rank 
    appropriate gear:
    			Flying Wyverns      				
    Rathalos & Azure Rathalos
    Recommended Ammunition: Normal 2/3
    Required Skills: Earplug
    Recommended Skills: Normal Up, Evade Inc
    Difficulty to gun: Moderate/Hard
    Rathalos is a wyvern to be taken seriously, and is a real chore if you don't
    have a good gear set up.
    Judging by Tri's Rathalos, it takes mediocre elemental damage, especially since
    Dragon S isn't a hugely viable shot for most of the game. That means you're
    going to be using Normal 2/3 constantly, and you're going to be aiming for
    the head.
    Rathalos in this game is much more frustrating for blademasters, since it 
    flies much more often and lands less predictably. It's this same lack of easy
    openings that makes it annoying to gun, although hitting the head with Normal
    shots isn't overly difficult. As a bonus, when you flinch it in mid air, 
    you'll get the satisfying animation of dropping it from the sky so you can 
    get a few free hits in.
    When it's airborne, it's usually going to be at distance, especially when it's
    fireballing. That means Normal 3 is the superior shot when it's flying, and
    Normal 2 will work well while it's on the ground and you're at close range.
    In all honesty though, the difference isn't huge, so go with whatever will give
    you a higher clip (usually, Normal 3).
    This can get a very frustrating fight, so taking some Exhaust S can be a good
    idea. When it's tired, it'll keep fail fireballing often, and so tiring it out
    quickly can quickly remove the stress from the fight.
    If you've raged it, it will always scream and jump back into a fireball. This
    can be a deadly move at High rank, so if you don't have Earplugs, you need to
    immediately roll away if you see it rearing up to roar.
    Azure 'Los is very similar, the major difference being his air bite has an AoE
    fire effect now. Just avoid him when he's hovering at you slowly and otherwise
    treat it like a normal Los.
    Silver Rathalos
    Recommended Ammunition: Thunder S, Normal 2/3
    Required Skills: Thunder Element +2
    Recommended Skills: Evade Inc
    Difficulty to gun: Moderate/Hard
    In previous games, Silver Los was simple to melee and tough to gun, but 3rd 
    gen has really reversed those fortunes. Now that the wings are very Thunder 
    weak, gunners can exploit this from range and happily ignore or dodge most of
    Silver's attacks.
    Try and keep track of wing staggers, because if you get a mid air wing stagger
    it'll fall down, giving you several free wing hits.
    Try and target the wing/body joint, since the wings move around a fair bit and
    you can miss shots quite easily.
    Obviously, as a G rank creature, he's going to be putting out a fair amount 
    of damage and you've got less defence than a blademaster, so you'll need to
    tread carefully. If you're playing multi, definitely consider a Thunder/Para
    /Poison set up to help your short-range compadres.
    Here's a visual demonstration that'll hopefully give you all the guidance you
    Rathian & Pink Rathian
    Recommended Ammunition: Normal 2
    Required Skills: None
    Recommended Skills: Earplug
    Difficulty to gun: Low
    While Rathian is a much better foe in 3rd generation compared to 2nd, it's 
    still a relative pushover for gunners. A constant stream of Normal shots on 
    the face is reasonably easy to accomplish, and as it takes reasonable shot 
    damage it's effective.
    When Rathian is hovering, it's tempting to go for a few headshots, but you
    need to exercise caution. She can quite quickly do a mid air tackle that
    covers a fair amount of ground, as well as flying to you and poison flipping
    quickly. If you're not confident, it's better to wait until she's landed.
    When she's fireballing is a great time for headshots, but be careful of her
    new area of effect napalm attack. Staying two rolls left (her right) of her
    head will mean you're safe from all her attacks. From that position, you'll
    be in good Normal shot range and can keep up the punishment.
    Just be careful not to get greedy with attacks as she's turning toward you
    for a charge and you'll soon find her limping off.
    Pink Ian's only new moves are a wider poison flip that you should be nowhere
    near and having a fire effect on her bite. It just means you can't exploit
    that attack from as close. If you're hear her when she does it, try and roll 
    under her or to her left.
    Gold Rathian
    Recommended Ammunition: Thunder S, Normal 2
    Required Skills: None
    Recommended Skills: Earplug
    Difficulty to gun: Moderate
    Gunning Gold Ian is similar to gunning the green version, except your focal
    point will be the legs rather than the head for Normal shots, and the wings
    for Thunder.
    As long as you're staying a couple of rolls away, her fireball attack should
    be easily dodged. One thing to watch out for is her new napalm attack, where
    she can fire three times while moving back. It covers a large amount of ground
    and will hurt, so it's best to avoid her while she's doing this unless you're
    confident you can avoid it.
    Otherwise, apply the above Rathian tactics, making note of the alternate
    weak points. It'll take longer, but it's not a hugely difficult fight.
    Diablos and Black Diablos
    Recommended Ammunition: Ice S, Normal 3 or Pierce 2/3
    Required Skills: Evade Inc (HBG), Normal/Pierce Up or Ice Element +2
    Recommended Skills: Combination Pro
    Difficulty to gun: Moderate
    Diablos is a tricky beast. While in some respects it's easier in this game 
    with the stamina system and more precise hitboxes on the charge, the shot 
    damage weak point is no longer automatically targeted with Pellet shots. So 
    while it's easier to avoid getting hit, you'll also sadly be putting out 
    less damage.
    So far the best way I've found to
    gun Diablos is to fire Ice shots at the face. This does good damage and will
    also break the horns reasonably fast, but will require a bit more precision
    than previous 'Blos fights.
    After you've run through your Ice shots, you'll want to aim Normal shots at
    the tail. Note though that the tail stub (the hammer bit) is actually a
    different hitzone and takes little damage. The tail is relatively thin and
    moves around, so aiming at the crotch end of the tail is a good way to go.
    If you can't shoot the tail, the wings are the next best point and take around
    75% of the damage the tail does.
    Dodging Diablos's moves is reasonably simple now that the charge hitbox doesn't
    extend so far on either side, and it feels like Blos is a bit slower. While
    you don't want to be far away from it (this encourages it to charge more) you
    do want to be careful to avoid its circular twist attack (once in normal, often
    twice in rage). it's easy to avoid the main hit but still get caught by the
    tail. Blos also seems to do a three quick charges and then taunt attack -
    don't get hit by this if at all possible, since you'll end up dizzy easily and
    be unable to stop it trolling you with a third charge.
    While you still can Pellet the tail, you'll find most of the pellets hit the
    tail stub (so, a body hitzone) or the hammer end of the tail. Pellet shots
    feel significantly weaker than previous games, and the combine for Pellet 3
    is now limited since you can carry 49 less of the material. It's still
    possible to pellet a Blos, it's just not as efficient now.
    When the 'Blosses have burrowed, sometimes you'll see a large dust cloud where
    they are. Sheathe at this point, and as soon as the dust cloud stops frothing,
    superman dive. You'll see Blos fly out of the ground a split second later, and
    instead of coming up vertically it can fly out of the ground at a 45* angle.
    It'll often taunt after jumping out like this though, giving you free hits.
    Gigginox And Baleful Gigginox
    Recommended Ammunition: Fire S (Giggi) and Water S (Baleful Giggi)
    Required Skills: Elemental Shot +2
    Recommended Skills: Combination Pro, Poison Negate
    Difficulty to gun: Easy
    Gigginox at High rank and above is a headache for Blademasters, with its area
    of effect poison attacks - G rank poison is no joke. But just like with 
    Khezu, Giggi is a breeze to gun.
    The elemental weak spot is the head, and for normal shots it's the head in
    normal mode, and the tail/fake head in rage mode. Since Giggi is reasonably
    slow and telegraphs its moves, it's reasonably easier to either Siege or
    Rapid fire at it. Now that Water shots are normal style, you can use exactly
    the same tactics on Baleful 'Nox, too.
    Don't stand directly in front of Giggi, but about two rolls away and one roll
    to the side. That way, you're still in close range, but you're able to quickly
    get out of harm's way. When you see it doing its slow charge, it's better to
    resist the temptation to hit the face and just roll backwards once. Giggi
    charges at where you are, so once you've rolled back it should stop its
    charge just in front of you. After a charge, roll backwards and to your left,
    as it'll do its stretchy head swipe which hits close and left, and then far
    and right. You can roll through the attack simply enough, but it's a risk you
    don't need to take and means you can't retaliate as fast.
    While Baleful 'Nox is essentially the same creature, be aware it uses Thunder
    attacks. When it's spitting thunder balls at you, you'll
    usually be at medium range. If that's the case, try and stand between the
    three balls, as you don't have to move far to get between them safely.
    Usually though, a roll to the side will allow you to get out of harm's way as
    the balls travel together before diverging at medium range.
    So just keep up the elemental firing, switch to Normal shots when appropriate
    and don't be under it when it's on the roof. It'll usually be out of effective
    range, or in attacking range so it's best to just leave it to drop down.
    Barioth and Sand Barioth
    Recommended Ammunition: Fire S (Barioth) and Ice S (Sand Barioth)
    Required Skills: Elemental Attack +2, Evade Inc (Desert Barioth)
    Recommended Skills: Earplug
    Difficulty to gun: Low
    Barioth is a creature that's really easy to dominate as a gunner. If you focus
    a few bursts of fire at one wing, you'll break it. This not only trips it over,
    but significantly restricts its mobility for the rest of the fight, making it
    fall over when it tries to jump around you.
    Generally speaking, target the head with raw damage and the head or wings
    with your elemental.
    Most of the time in the fight, it'll do its medium speed hopping charge at
    you. It's tempting to fire at the head as it rushes you, but you'll take
    heavy damage if you misjudge the staggers, so it's usually better to roll to
    the side instead. When it's past you, go for the wings. Whenever it's safe,
    fire at the head. When it backs up a couple of steps quickly, it's going to
    ice or sand blast, so it's important to recognise the attack early and roll
    When Wind Barioth fires a sand blast, it'll create a tornado. While annoying
    by itself as it restricts movement, Barioth can also jump into the tornado
    to launch itself at you. It's quite possible to dodge this attack by MOIing
    through it, but it's simpler to sheathe and superman dive when you see it
    running to the tornado.
    When Barioth flies up, try and get under its shadow or far enough away so
    you can pan the camera up to see it. While its aerial attacks are pretty
    obvious, just be aware that if you're in a zone it enters, it won't land in
    one spot, it'll usually fly at you.
    Tail whips are simply avoided, and another great headshot opening.
    Here's a demonstration of the above:
    Naruga and Green Naruga
    Recommended Ammunition: Thunder S
    Required Skills: Evade+, Element Attack +
    Recommended Skills: Earplug
    Difficulty to gun: Low/Moderate
    I've listed this fight as 'Low/Moderate'. What that means is that this battle
    is easy if you're familiar with gunning Naruga, but if you're not used to how
    it moves and evasion, you'll find it trickier until you get the hang of it.
    Immediately after you press 'X', you are invulnerable for a fraction of a
    second. It's this moment of invulnerability (MOI) that lets you roll though
    virtually all of Naruga's attacks, since they move so fast. Evade + extends
    how long this invulnerability lasts, so if you're not used to rolling it will
    You're going to be firing Thunder S at Naruga's head, and Thunder S at Green's
    head and wings. While regular Naruga's fire resistance has been raised, it's
    still a very fast method to kill it, but sadly there won't be any more sub 5
    dual Naruga antics... When the head isn't available, the tail is a secondary
    weak point on normal Naruga, and you'll be aiming for Green's wings again.
    Naruga's movements can be quite disorienting at first. It's going to keep
    jumping around you, and then jumping right at you quickly. You'll need to be
    good at used the Claw hand technique to quickly re-orient the camera so you
    can keep track of it.
    When it starts its charge, it's a good time to get a head shot or two. When
    it reaches you, it'll usually tail-whip. This move is easily rolled, but again,
    you'll need to get familiar with the timing. It'll take some trial and error,
    so if you don't get it right away, don't fret.
    When it looks at you and scowls, it's going to tail-slam. This can be deadly,
    so make sure you roll backwards and right asap, before unloading at the tail.
    The Green one can slam once and quickly jump up and re-slam, so don't start
    attacking until you're sure it's not going to jump again.
    That might seem a little unusual, so watch a Naruga gunning video from Unite
    if you're after some visual tips. I'll try and make a P3rd Naruga video
    Lucent Naruga
    Recommended Ammunition: 
    Required Skills: 
    Recommended Skills: 
    Difficulty to gun: 
    (Coming soon)
    			Brute Wyverns      				
    Barroth and Jade Barroth
    Recommended Ammunition: Fire S (and Water on Barroth) and Normal
    Required Skills: Earplug
    Recommended Skills: Evade+
    Difficulty to gun: Moderate
    Barroth has an interesting elemental weakness mechanic. When it's covered in
    mud, those hitzones are weak to water. once you've 'washed' the mud off the
    head, it's then weak to fire. Otherwise, the tail is the raw shot damage
    weak spot of choice.
    Barroth telegraphs its moves quite far in advance, especially the charge 
    attack. Quite often it'll charge past you, giving you several free shots at 
    either the tail or parts of the body still covered in mud. Otherwise, it 
    tends to tail whip or shake mud at you, which allow you to sit back out of 
    range and blast it with relative impunity. The major issue to beware of is 
    the rage mode transition, which makes it significantly faster. It's easy to
    get caught by the roar and hit before you're able to recover, which makes 
    Earplugs an investment for this battle.
    Keeping the pressure on normal Barroth is reasonably straightforward, and most
    of its attacks seem to be targeted at blademasters, so gunners should typically
    find this a reasonably simple fight as long as you're careful not to get your
    self charged or muddy.
    Both Barroth are poison weak, so if you're going up against the normal one,
    the Ludroth gun with Water, Normal and Poison options is a good weapon to
    have handy.
    Jade Barroth is much more niggly. It's weak to fire all over, and after you've
    melted off the snow over its body, Fire S on the head is going to leave it
    hurting. But it's much more mobile than its muddy cousin, and can charge very
    erratically. The 'ring around the Rosie' charge can be quite devastating, as
    can the double head-bash that inflicts snowman. It'll also do a pimp walk at
    you without attacking, which can be quite unnerving.
    It's got a fair chunk of HP too, so it's a good idea to use the Rathalos LBG
    for its Fire S RF. Fire a volley at its side, and then re-position so you're
    not in front of it when it turns. You can down it reasonably fast, but you
    will need to be careful since one unlucky curve charge and you can be riding
    the kitty express back to camp.
    Here's a video of Ice Barroth from the P3rd demo:
    Uragaan and Steel Uragaan
    Recommended Ammunition: Water S and Poison S
    Required Skills: Water Element +
    Recommended Skills: None
    Difficulty to gun: Low
    If you remember Black Gravios from previous MH games, you'll be right at home
    fighting Uragaan. It shares the same crippling weaknesses to Water and Poison,
    and is just as easy for gunners to exploit.
    Uragaan takes among the highest poison damage of any creature in the game, so
    while status shots are often not worth the time in solo play, they become
    important here. Both the Ludroth and Gigginox guns will let you keep Ura
    poisoned, and you can actually kill it without raging it once just by keeping
    it constantly poisoned.
    After you've poisoned it, you're going to want to move to Water shots on the
    face (the chin, specifically). While this will send him into rage mode fast,
    his attacks aren't too hard to avoid. When he does enter rage mode though he'll
    cut his roar short to chin pound twice, so it's best to roll out if at all
    Steel Ura is the same, and seems to spend lots of time doing the tail whip.
    While the tail isn't as Water weak, it's still worth shooting as you'll break
    parts off for extra rewards.
    If you keep switching between Water and poison shots, you'll be able to kill
    it quickly at very low risk. As long as you're comfortable side-stepping the
    rolling attack you should have no trouble here.
    Duramboros & Rust Duramboros
    Recommended Ammunition: Fire S (Water on Rusty), Normal 2/3 Or Pierce 2/3
    Required Skills: Damage boosting skills
    Recommended Skills: None
    Difficulty to gun: Low/Moderate
    The great moss mountain wyvern Duram is enormous and has HP for Africa, but
    isn't especially hard for gunners besides taking a while. And unusually,
    gunners are able to shoot its tail off, as well as breaking the back and horns.
    Duram is weak to Fire (Rusty is weak to water), and its shot damage weak point
    is the tail. That's helpful, because during most of the fight it'll be trying
    to hit you with it, giving you lots of openings for attacks. it'll quite 
    often back up, and look like it's about to attack your cats or leave the 
    zone, but more often than not it's actually trying to swipe at you with its
    massive tail. The best option is to roll/hop backwards twice and then while 
    out of its range, blast away.
    Its other major attack is the roflcopter tail. You can either simply get out
    of range and then fire at it, or dodge the first revolution and get under it
    and fire at the legs, aiming for a trip. If you don't trip it and it flings
    itself away, you're still able to run up and fire at it for a few seconds
    As long as you always assume it's trying to hit you with its tail, you should
    be able to stay safe. You can either Fire S the head, Normal the tail or
    Pierce down the tail to preference.
    Recommended Ammunition: Normal 2/3 Or Water/Ice
    Required Skills: Damage boosting skills, Evade Inc
    Recommended Skills: As above
    Difficulty to gun: Moderate/Hard
    Brachydios is the new flagship monster for 3 Ultimate, and he's a tough 
    customer to gun down. Pellet shots are ineffective and he doesn't have huge
    elemental weaknesses, which when combined with his huge HP pool and fast 
    movement makes for a tricky fight.
    Normal 2 or 3 to the head or tail (both equally shot-damage weak) are your 
    go-to shots here, so any gun with big Normal clips is a good option. His 
    normal mode shouldn't prove too tricky, and once you get the hang of his 
    patterns you mainly need to remember to get rid of slime hits ASAP and 
    watching his tail, since on many attacks it'll swing round deceptively far.
    Rage mode though is different. He's quite fast and many of his attacks have
    a large area of effect, so it's about picking your shots well. His arm lick
    into jump attack does huge damage with its explosion, which renders the 
    mobility you'd normally look for in a LBG a little moot, since you can't 
    always roll out of range. It's better to be walking/running to one side 
    when you see him charging up for it, and then evade through the explosion, 
    or roll towards his body (instead of sideways). Always stay on 90%+ HP when
    possible since it's easy for him to get a slime hit on you and then detonate
    it with a follow up attack while you're recovering.
    It's worth considering strategies like sleep or paralyze bombing him, or
    using exhaust shots to fatigue it faster, to help whittle down its HP.
    Recommended Ammunition: Thunder S and Normal 2/3 Or Pierce
    Required Skills: Damage boosting skills, Evade+/Evade Inc
    Recommended Skills: As above
    Difficulty to gun: Moderate/Hard
    Jho is one of the most charismatic creatures seen in MH for a long time, and
    it's also one of the most consistently challenging and fun fights you'll have.
    Jho is a giant Tyrannosaur creature, as you've no doubt seen. Uniquely among
    MH creatures, his attacks have massive range and speed, but tiny hitboxes.
    As long as you stay on the offensive, his attacks will rarely connect. But if
    they do, you're in trouble since he hits like a truck.
    In normal mode, Thunder/Shot damage on the face is effective, and in rage,
    you want to re-aim at his belly when you can, though either hitzone in either
    mode can be used.
    His rock throw can be dodged by simply rolling to the side, and his multi-
    bite attack (which will either be done three or five times) can be walked
    under without the need for rolling. It's tricky at first, but try and
    recognise the difference in load up between his walking bite and his bite into
    tail spin, because you'll want to time the dodge differently. In either case
    though, roll under him *between* the legs, not outside his legs, since the
    tail can often clip you for small damage.
    Take armour seeds if you can, because when he's fatigued his bite attacks 
    inflict defence down which can be problematic if you fail an evade.
    Jho eats voraciously, and this can really be used to your advantage. Tainted,
    drugged and poisoned meats will be consumed with aplomb, and while each is
    effective just once (unless you're in multi), it gives you a free chance
    to sleep bomb or parahaxx some of his huge HP away (for perspective, in Tri
    it had more HP than Alatreon, the last boss).
    The two main approaches are Thunder S RF, or Pierce abuse. While both are
    effective, you'll always get the full Thunder damage on it if you connect,
    whereas Pierce shots can exit his body if you don't hit down his face or tail.
    Jho is an intimidating, but fundamentally fun, fight.
    Here's my take on gunning Jho:
    Royal Ludroth, Purple Royal Ludroth
    Recommended Ammunition: Fire S
    Required Skills: None
    Recommended Skills: Poison negate is useful for Purple.
    Difficulty to gun: Low
    As most of you have played Tri, I'm sure you'll all familiar
    with Spongy. Ludroth is a quite simple fight, and even a non perfect run
    can net you sub 3 minute times with rank appropriate gear.
    As long as you're using Fire S on the sponge or Normal 2 on the head, it'll
    go down pretty fast. None of its attacks are especially intimidating either,
    so as long as you avoid getting jumped on you can even tank it a bit.
    Poison Ludroth is essentially the same creature, just with the ability to sap
    your HP faster. Antidotes can help with that.
    Here's a video from the P3rd demo:
    Recommended Ammunition: Thunder, Normal, Pierce
    Required Skills: None
    Recommended Skills: Damage boosting
    Difficulty to gun: Moderate
    With the way Normal 3 ricochets underwater and Gobul's dislike of Thunder, 
    you've got a couple of good options for taking down the oversized puffer fish.
    Gobul's weakpoint is the lantern, closely followed by the chest and head. If
    you're focussing hits on his face (especially underwater) you'll quickly find
    you can break the lantern off, which stops him being able to flash at you.
    Gobul's attacks tend to focus on reasonably linear, either straight forward 
    or to the side, and while he doesn't do huge amounts of damage, it can add up
    quickly if he uses his long vacuum underwater, so be wary.
    A couple of Normal 3/Thunder S volleys at the face, then repositioning if you
    need to and repeating, will reasonably quickly kill Gobul. It's not hugely
    weak to Shot damage but it does have a lot of openings. Again, be careful
    of the range it can quickly cover.
    Another option is to stick with Pierce, since once it's bounded past you'll
    often be forced to shoot at its back or wait for it to turn. Pierce down its
    body or along the legs and it'll soon be trippin', letting you get lots of 
    tasty free hits in.
    Recommended Ammunition: Ice S or Pierce 2/3
    Required Skills: Evade Inc for HBG
    Recommended Skills: N/A
    Difficulty to gun: Low/Moderate
    Nibel is an unusual fight. Without special tactics it can be a drawn out fight,
    but if you know how to fish it up, then you can really dominate them.
    Snarfy has many attacks that involve it running at you or attacking with its
    mouth wide open, like its Jaws style un-burrow or the back and forth waltz
    across the desert. If you lay a LBB or LBB+ down and it attacks into them,
    it'll end up eating the bombs. If it does this, it'll explode shortly after,
    which is your cue to run up to it and press O to fish it up (follow up with
    some vigorous button mashing). Once fished out, you're able to fire at its
    Uvula (the weak spot, the dangly pink thing at the back of its throat) freely.
    The belly is a good secondary if you can't get round to his mouth reliably.
    You can bomb it like this multiple times, though each time you need to use
    more explosives than the last (try a LBB, then two, then a LBB+, then two of 
    Otherwise, if it burrows under, sheathe and sprint around. When its sand spout
    stops, it's about to surface under you, so superman dive.
    It'll frequently sit on the surface of the sand doing little, giving you lots
    of openings to blast the head with Ice S. This will break the ears/gills pretty
    handily. You also don't have to worry much about the sand flop attack it does.
    When it's sucking up sand for its sand beam attack, try and get behind it and
    you'll be able to fire at the back of its head.
    Otherwise, it's a reasonably placid creature when not attacking, and after a
    couple of fights you'll find that for a lot of the fight you can keep firing
    away without worrying about retaliation.
    Snarfs have a fair bit of HP so if you see it limping, it's usually a better
    idea to go for a capture unless you particularly like fighting big creatures
    in small caves.
    Agnaktor and Glacial Agnaktor
    Recommended Ammunition: Water S and Fire S (Ice Agnak) and Normal 3 OR Pierce
    Required Skills: Evade Inc, Damage boosting skills
    Recommended Skills: Damage boosting skills, Blightproof
    Difficulty to gun: Moderate/Hard
    Agnaktor is a worthy foe, for both gunners and melee. While it's simple enough
    to target its weak points, it's got a lot of attacks that can easily hit
    players at medium range and it can do a lot of damage with them.
    Firstly, your main targets with your respective elemental shots are the head
    and chest. If you want Agnaktor Claws, you'll need to break the lava/ice off
    all four limbs, but this will suck up a lot of ammo and time. For raw damage,
    aim at the face.
    When Agnak has been out of the lava for a while, its skin cools down. When it's
    like this, water shots are a better option than raw. Conversely, Ice Agnaktor
    thaws if it's out of the ice for a while, so you'd start with Fire and move
    to Normal if you wanted to maximise your shots.
    Always try and stay on the left of Agnak's head (so, your right). At high rank
    it'll do a beam that sweeps around, but won't get you if you're close (two
    rolls away) on the left.
    If it pulls back for a charge, try and resist rolling or running left or right
    until the last second. It's quite good at predicting where you'll be, but if
    you walk in a straight line backwards or stay still it'll come to where you
    When it burrows under, sheathe and keep moving. Always run straight left or
    right of where it entered the ground, and if it's in the roof, be ready to
    superman dive if you need to. If you get hit when it's in lava mode, you'll
    be fireblighted, so roll to put it out. If it's under the ground and you feel
    a small quake, it might be about to half emerge and do a 360* beam. Get right
    next to it if you can, or right away sheathe and be ready to dive otherwise.
    You can flinch it with head shots pretty easily. When it's fatigued, it's far
    less threatening too, so if you can prevent it from feeding on Rhenoplos then
    do so.
    So, the main plan is to be aiming for the head when possible, or the chest
    otherwise, especially if the head is moving around a lot.
    While I don't recommend this below tactic, it is extremely efficient at
    farming Agnaktor. 
    Lagiacrus and Ivory Lagiacrus
    Recommended Ammunition: Fire S and Normal 3 
    Required Skills: Damage boosting skills
    Recommended Skills:  Blightproof
    Difficulty to gun: Moderate
    While underwater fighting is the bane of many MH player's life (unless you're
    a lancer), it's actually not that bad as a gunner. You don't need to worry
    about getting disoriented as much since first person aiming fixes that nicely.
    Unlike in Pokemon, Fire is very effective on many water based creatures, and
    Lagicarus really hates it. Fire S on the chest, horns and back will quickly
    break those parts, and it'll break the claws for easy trips quite handily, 
    too. If you can make a Fire S RF gun it'll make things much smoother.
    While underwater, Fire S on the above places and Normal 3 on the chest and 
    back will very effective, as Normal 3 ricochets a lot underwater. Lagiacrus
    is going to spend a lot of time charging back and forth, so if you dodge to
    one side and fire at its back when it's gone past you'll get into a quick
    rhythm. Make sure you're close enough to get the right range too, as you'll
    need to be closer when underwater.
    When it's in Rage and doing the thunder ball, it'll often do a second right
    after, so don't fire at it after the first one. If it starts circling you,
    it'll stop after a few seconds and launch at you. It's best to sheathe if 
    you see it doing this so you can sprint out of the way.
    When on land it's a simple fight; dodge the slide charges and fire at the 
    back or chest. 
    For Ivory, the fight is all land-based, and you don't need to worry about
    its AoE thunder coat since you should be just out of range. I'll update this
    further at a later stage, but check out the tips in the 'Mark of a Hero' 
    section below. But with a good spawn and a little luck, you can clear this 
    quest sub-5 with High rank gear.
    Abyssal Lagiacrus
    Recommended Ammunition: 
    Required Skills: 
    Recommended Skills: 
    Difficulty to gun: 
    (Coming soon)
    			Elder Dragons      			
    Jhen Mohran
    Recommended Ammunition: Pierce 2/3, Ice S
    Required Skills: Damage skills
    Recommended Skills: More Damage Skills
    Difficulty to gun: Low
    Jhen isn't an ideal creature to gun, since it's a big punching bag that is
    more easily exploited with melee. Still, it's not overly difficult.
    When the fight starts, grab the Ballista binder and ballista shots, and Anti
    Dragon bombs. Run up the ramp and grab a cannonball from the rear of the ship.
    It'll surface soon after on the right of the ship, and you should run to the
    cannon and hit O.
    Then, jump on the ballista, and start firing. You can break both tusks, but
    don't waste shots if you aren't accurate at range with them. When it does a
    small belly flop, it's thrown rocks at you, so roll off the ballista right away.
    Jump back on and keep firing.
    When it gets closer and you've used your ten ballista shots, spam two or three
    more cannon balls at it. Then, you should be wary of body slam attacks. If it
    pulls back from the boat, you can jump on the ballista and select the yellow
    binder, and fire. You'll pull it close and stop its attack.
    Jump on the lower leg soon after, and run up to the cracked part of the spine.
    Plant two Anti dragon bombs, and then straight away run around the spine to
    the other side of the same crack, and start Ice blasting it.
    After the spine is cracked, jump back on the boat and keep using the cannon.
    Soon, it'll jump over the boat. While it's doing this, grab more ballista
    shells from the spear rack (crouch to gather faster). Fire at it on the left
    side of the boat, and when it goes under, get three more ballista shells or
    heal. It'll surface, coming right at the boat, which is when you want to
    hit the gong.
    When it approaches the boat and you've used your ballista shells and a couple
    of cannons, jump on the tusks and run to the closer spine, and fire at it till
    it cracks.
    You should soon see it dive and surface far away on the left side of the boat.
    When this happens, it'll dive again and then come at the boat from the front.
    It'll come up, dive back under, and come up again. As soon as it come up the
    second time, activate the ship's dragonator.
    All going well, you'll force it to the final showdown. Ballista x 10 from long
    range, then run to it and Pierce 3/2 into the mouth from side on. When it gets
    close to the boat, dragonate or bind it if you have to.
    Keep it up and in no time you should have a dead Jhen!
    Recommended Ammunition: Normal 3/2 and Clust 2 Or Pellet
    Required Skills: Damage skills, Evade Inc, Combination Pro
    Recommended Skills: Evade+
    Difficulty to gun: High
    Alatreon is the final boss of MH Tri, and as a final boss, it's much more 
    challenging and interesting than Fatalis, and you must fight and kill it in 
    a single round.
    Alatreon's head is a magnet for Pellet shots, so if you don't need webbings
    or would rather just kill it, then Pellet is a great method. It's also a
    reasonably robust strategy for a flying Ala, though you definitely want to
    keep an eye on when the Ballista Binder resets so you can ground it. 
    If you're playing in multi, obviously Pellet isn't an appropriate tactic.
    You can instead use Normal 3 on the head, help your team mates with sleep or
    paralyze openings, or Clust 2 for decent damage and wing breaks.
    You'll get good head shot openings when it fireballs, and when it charges its
    horns for the horn flick. You should be getting three head shots even time
    it does this. Whenever it's charged past you and turns 180*, it'll always
    have its head low to the ground and can be shot then, too.
    If you have access to a gun with Clust 2 (at LEAST 2 shells per clip, too) as
    well as having a good Normal clip, then it's a good way to go. Aiming at the
    neck or wings will allow you to pump out damage (53 Clust 2 worth) and
    hopefully rip the wings, which will save you time doing it later. After your
    clusts, follow the Normal to the head strategies above. Be very careful to
    manage your recoil and reloading, though.
    This fight can take around half an hour at first, so you'll need 99 Normal 2
    and 3, and combines for more. Bringing Normal 1 is also a good idea for your
    first few bouts. Felyne Sharpshooter (+10% normal S damage) is extremely 
    important to have active if you possibly can, too.
    Dire Miralis
    Recommended Ammunition: Normal 3, 2
    Required Skills: Damage boosting
    Recommended Skills: As above, with Combo Pro
    Difficulty to gun: Moderate
    Miralis is akin to Fatalis from the older games. It's a huge dragon that 
    summons meteors a la Crimson Fatalis. It's your HR7-8 urgent, and once you 
    beat it, your HR cap is removed. You'll be fighting it on land and at sea,
    as it periodically decides to wander around the one zone you fight it in.
    Miralis is quite intimidating, but as with Jho, if you get right up close 
    and personal you'll be in a better position to deal damage and stay safe.
    You can use any gear you see fit, but I recommend something like Agnaktor X
    and the Ivory Lagia HBG, with the limiter removed. This will give you 
    Steadiness +2, Normal Up, Partbreaker. If you can squeeze in Combo Pro with
    a good charm then do. But a high clip of boosted Normal 3 is the priority.
    Once the fight starts, run forward and left a little to avoid a meteor. When
    you get to the water's edge, load your Normal 3 before his scream gets you.
    After you recover, swim up to him at the surface of the water, and get point
    blank to his chest. From here, unload your Normal 3 clip right into his 
    shoulders or chest. You'll get the ricohets like crazy and as long as you 
    stay point blank, he can't hit you, except for the big flop.
    If you hear rumbling sound rising in pitch, he's about to flop down and change 
    stances to his slithering state. If he does this, it's the one attack that 
    will hit you in front of him. If you hear it coming, sheathe and swim out or
    roll away, but even in rage it's not an OHKO with around 350 def. If he does
    get you, sheathe and sprint out to heal.
    When he's slithering, if you're next to the beach, then you can swim there 
    on the surface and he can't get you except with fireballs. Do leave him be
    when he's slithering, as he'll do huge damage and moves fast.
    If you see him turn towards the shore and walk that way, he's probably decided
    to have his customary long walk on the beach. You can fire freely here if 
    you're close enough.
    Once on land, load your Normal 2. Normal 3 won't ricochet as reliably here, 
    so save it. You can stand just next to his feet next to his crotch under him
    and he won't be able to get you while you fire at his feet for trips (and
    once tripped, roll up and shoot the chest or head) or Normal 2 on his tail 
    orb until it breaks. Again, listen for the whirring sound that signals his 
    flops. If he's doing that then again, stay away. It's a good time to use the 
    ballistas when he's doing this.
    Eventually, he'll wander back to the water. Repeat the first phase stuff with
    normal 3. He'll go back and forth, but after about 30 mins of blasting, he'll 
    drop dead.
    Stay at full health and play it safe until you're happy with how he moves and
    you should be able to down the big molten dragon. Make sure to break his 
    shoulders for Hellwings, head for Eyes and tail core for Smelter breaks. 
    Ceadeus, Goldbeard Ceadeus
    Recommended Ammunition: Normal 3, Pierce
    Required Skills: Damage boosting, Guard Inc (for Golbeard)
    Recommended Skills: As above
    Difficulty to gun: Low (Ceadeus) High (Goldbeard)
    Ceadeus is quite a procedural fight in the first instance (like Lao or Jhen)
    and a psuedo Leviathan fight after. In the first phase, once you break the
    Beard off, it'll speed up to the last phase. So, that's the first order of 
    In the first phase, it's not going to attack you much at all, letting you
    fire volleys of Normal 3 with impunity at the beard. Get in close enough that
    you're getting the larger yellow flash on your hits (angle isn't so 
    important). Try and swim ahead of it rather than firing from behind, and once
    your shots aren't in the sweet spot for range any more, sheathe and 
    re-position. The breast (area under the beard) is also a good target.
    It will stop and swing at you ocassionally, but if you're in the right 
    position (ahead of it and under it) you won't get hit. If you do, just heal
    up and continue.
    Once it's in the last zone, swim up to the dragonator (behind it when you 
    first enter the area) and use it when he's in front of the dragonator button.
    If you can get 10 Underwater Ballista from the Argosy Captain then great and 
    use them, but it's not a huge deal otherwise. It's got some big attacks, but
    if you stay under it and fire at the beard and breast, not many of its 
    attacks will be close to you. Keep up the pressure and it should at the very
    least be a simple repel.
    Goldie is much more frustrating. It's a similar fight to the regular 
    Ceadeus's last phase, though it's more aggressive and hits a lot harder. At 
    the end of High rank too you don't have particularly great gear as a gunner.
    I recommend that you get a set with Guard up and put a shield on your gun to
    let you tank his water beams as they have huge range and are very fast.
    Other that that, try and stay close and shoot for the beard, face and horns 
    (to break them) and breast. Normal 3 works wonders, and Pierce 3 is a good
    option as well after that since it's got a longer range than Normal 2. 
    Combine Pro and Guard Up would form the basis of a good set here, and 
    Felyne Sharpshooter to boost your Normal S is really helpful. 
                          Part 4: The Final Offline Quest:
    			      Mark of a Hero
    Traditionally, the final offline quest in each Monster Hunter game is a 
    unique test in it features creatures a rank above the others from that quest
    giver. So, a low rank quest giver's final quest would feature High rank 
    It is a truer test of hunting ability, since you can't go online for 
    assistance. This is also a great way to vet other players before playing with
    them - if you can get their guild card you'll be able to see if they've 
    completed the quest or not. If they have, it's a sign they know what they're 
    Aside from just being a rank above the norm, these final quests are 
    notoriously difficult. Ultimate's quest, Mark of a Hero, is no different. 
    It's in the Arena and features a White Lagiacrus, followed by a Brachydios 
    and an Azure Rathalos at the same time.
    Time is going to be an issue here, as are ammo limits. We'll need to 
    carefully plan to make sure you donít end up firing Normal 1.
    Make a Bonus Shot, Earplug, Combination Pro, Damage Boost (AU or RA+ - If 
    your attack is above 320, RA+3 is going to boost your damage more than AUL)
    set, and the best Rathalos LBG you can. If youíre at High rank, thatís the
    Rathaling Phoenix. Unless you have a great charm you canít get all those 
    skills, so prioritise the non-attack skills first. Use Athenaís Armour Set 
    Searcher (Google it, latest version is 1.15b) if you need to and plug in 
    those skills and itíll tell you the best way to do it with charms you have. 
    Letís go through that gear.
    *The point of earplug is for when Azure Los screams Ė you donít need it for 
    Ivory Lagi, but if you get caught stunned with a Brachy rolling about, 
    youíre liable to take heavy damage.
    *Bonus shot is to help with the ammo restrictions youíll face; and because 
    that gun fires two excellent shots for the mission (Fire S for Ivory and 
    Normal S for Brachy/Los).
    *Combination Pro is to get you more from your Normal S combines.
    And lastly, the damage skills should be obvious. If youíre doing the quest 
    with High rank stuff, itís definitely worth doing Moga Woods free roaming 
    to reset your kitchen until youíre able to get Felyne Sharpshooter. 10% 
    more damage on your Normal shots is very helpful, as is Thundercaller if 
    you donít want to wait for Sharpshooter.
    For items, take full Fire S, Normal 2 and 3, Poison 1 and 2, and combines 
    for all of these. Take potions as you need, but take two Max Potions Ė if 
    you do die, the last thing you need is getting reduced to 66% of your max 
    health. Mega juices mean you donít need to worry about stamina, and power 
    seeds and a Mega Demon Drug are free damage. A farcaster can be useful for 
    getting back to camp for a free heal and to grab the Normal 2 in the box 
    if youíre running low. 
    Generally speaking, stay on full health at all times. Ivory Lagi in 
    particular dishes out huge damage and can easily combo you with massive AoE 
    attacks, so be wary.
    Ivory Lagiacrus
    While you can hit Ivory with Pierce on the body or Normal on the tail, 
    Fire S on the chest/head/back really brings the pain train to olí Whitey. 
    And with bonus shot on your Fire S RF, a 15 minute kill is what you should 
    be aiming for. Since heíll spend a lot of time doing the thunder coat (make 
    sure if heís doing the longer load up version youíre back far enough as the 
    sparks have deceptively long range) youíre able to get in free damage, 
    though be very careful of his flicked thunder ball, as itíll spread around 
    where the initial hit lands. Roll towards him to get away from it rather 
    than to the sides.
    His electrified slide has big range and is very fast, so you might end up 
    eating some damage there. But if you hang around just outside thunder coat 
    range and keep up the pressure on his back crystals and chest (and tail 
    with Normal 2 shots if you run out of Fire S) he should be a simple fight, 
    though potentially very damaging. Try and stay away from the walls too, 
    since itís easy for him to get a hit on you and then put a thunder ball 
    over your body before you stand up.
    Brachydios & Azure Rathalos
    As you may have seen by now, this is the easier part of the fight in many 
    respects. If you keep Azure between you and Brachy, Brachyís explosive 
    attacks will do a lot of damage to Los. With some Normal 3/2 pot shots 
    (be very careful of that RF on Normal 2 with Bonus Shot) and then putting 
    the damage down during fatigue, itís pretty straightforward to kill 
    Rathalos in around ten minutes. 
    From there, take a deep breath Ė one last hurdle and youíre done.
    Brachy is a pain to gun in his rage mode, given the big area of effect 
    explosions heís got. Normal shots at the face and tail are the order of 
    the day, and if youíre not confident, itís better to sheathe and run 
    around to wait for openings rather than taking risks and getting stapled 
    to the floor. Itís worth doing a BG run on the solo Brachy quest first to 
    get a feel for it rather than starting here. Load your Poison shots and use 
    them carefully when heís in Rage mode, as itís better to use his un-raged 
    state for Normal blasting. After youíve poisoned him twice itís not worth 
    doing it a third time.
    If you keep the pressure up and play carefully with his rage mode, this 
    part of the fight shouldnít be a huge drama, and soon youíll have him taking 
    a dirt nap.
    Congratulations! Now, youíve just got Alatreon and youíre done with Village.
                          Part 5: Credits, Contact & Copyright Info
    This guide may not be reproduced under any circumstances without permission,
    and without permission it should not be on any site except:
    If you want to quote from this guide, just ask me. As long as you note the
    source I'm usually pretty happy to let people use it.
    It goes without saying that using this guide without my express permission
    is a violation of Copyright law, including but not limited to the Brussels
    I am happy to take questions by email, too. My email address is in the
    introduction section as well, but it's mazereon@gmail.com. Please check to
    make sure though that your question isn't already answered in the guide itself.
    Lastly, credit where itís due.
    To my brothers Vash_TS and Knives; you guys have made me the hunter I am
    today. Mad love to you both.
    Where specific numerical data from the game is inlcuded, this has been drawn
    from the Japanese Wiki.
    You, the reader, for bothering to get this far.
    All trademarks are © Capcom. All analysis © mazereon, 2012-13.

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